After seeing tons of other people's projects on RUclips come out _so perfectly,_ seeing a project like this be so scuffed is oddly like an aggravating breath of fresh air. Like seeing someone play your favorite video game poorly, this makes me want to do this project myself, lol! Great vid honestly, keep at it.
Yes. Seeing others do things perfectly makes me feel like there is an incredibly high standard that most people are capable of achieving when they do these projects. But to see a big name guy such as Mr. Hurd fail and have various bloopers during the production of this project was just refreshing. Goes to show that mistakes are more common than what is perceived online!
That's the premis of RUclips, it was supposed to be a platform full of screw-ups but ended up with full of professional builds as well as screw-ups. Basically Everything & nothing is perfect & that's what makes RUclips a decent platform.
That's a resonance port but with a diaphragm in it to prevent dust ingress. It allows the speaker cone to move freely in the chassis regardless of changes in pressure internally. someone else might know more than me
Only thing I can add is everything he said significantly extends the low frequency response of the driver. Why it had a solid, quality sound to it vs hollow plastic sounding. Nice touch on their part.
Looks more like a passive radiator (sometimes called "drone cone"). It's like a speaker that isn't powered, it only uses the pressure inside of the speaker enclosure that the main driver (speaker) is creating, to extend the low end of the unit. It's pretty common in 2- and 3-way nearfield studio monitors nowadays since they usually are using small woofers that can't recreate low frequencies (usually 5" and below). Using a passive radiator, instead of having bass ports, lets you place the monitors closer to walls without loosing low end information. Portable bluetooth speakers also use passive radiators instead of bass ports because you probably don't want large holes in your bluetooth speaker where dirt and moisture can enter. _"In the same way as a ported loudspeaker, a passive radiator system uses the sound pressure otherwise trapped in the enclosure to excite a resonance that makes it easier for the speaker system to create the deepest pitches"_ en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passive_radiator_(speaker)
Also the passive radiator adds cubic space so the box that the speaker is in acts bigger than it is and still gives tight bass like a sealed box does vs a ported box in which the bass is looser. But louder. Best of both worlds... Louder and tighter.
Cool build! Some (hopefully_ useful tips for the future: 1. Typically you want a desoldering gun, a soldering iron, and fresh solder, to remove a large pin header like that. You want to tin one of the pins on the embedded header with fresh solder, then use the desoldering gun to remove all the solder from that pin. Repeat for all 40 pins and then it will come cleanly out. (alternatively you can buy a Raspberry Pi without the pin headers and just solder the one you want on). 2. Highly suggest getting a Dremel for next time, as they offer you a lot more control over the removal and shaping of material on a piece. Overall, it's a neat little project!
yeah! i cringed at the glass breaking, and with the very bad soldering job. the PC is still very cute but could've also used a custom UI to fit with the retro look more xD
That port with the white part is called a passive radiator and yes it makes the bass feel more seperate from the main speakers but it doesn't have a voice coil
I've been wanting to make something like this as a bit of an art piece to display in my home studio. Essentially I just want to be able to run milkytracker or fasttracker on it in a constant loop and when people ask, "what is this?" I'd just have them hit a mute button on the keyboard that would let them hear the music. Milkytracker runs on raspberry pi's so your kinda already there with it.
The white piece going to the port on the back is a bass diffuser. It's basically a speaker cone without a magnet or coil, and it's used to make the cabinet produce bass like a ported cabinet, but keeping it airtight like a sealed cabinet, giving a decent balance between both types. Good deep bass response, but also a decent punchy response for the mids.
Oh man, removing pin headers is a PAIN. I was doing the same today and I have some tips for you. Yes, it's easier if you remove the plastic spacers, I sometimes cut through them by melting them with the soldering iron - it's not pretty, but it puts less strain on the traces than just pulling at them. Make your soldering iron hotter than you normally would just for soldering, like 350/400 degrees. Once you have the pins out and you want to clean up the holes, try using solder wick and flux instead of the sucker: Get your solder wick and drag it through flux so it's saturated, then press it to the pin holes with your iron and it will wick up the solder cleanly. If it's not wicking, try more flux. I think you can get pre-fluxed solder wick, so maybe try that. Wick with no flux is really difficult to get to work. Also have heard good things about hollow desoldering needles but haven't tried them yet.
oh also it sounds wierd but sometimes I find it helps to ADD solder to the headers at the start because fresh quality solder is often easier to remove than whatever they used on the board at the manufacturer.
@@isaacgraphics1416 fyi its likely because soldering wire is low temperature alloy, while industrial flow solder station use cheaper alloys. Tin+lead is lower temp but because of regulations they prefer to just use tin at higher temps. Lead-free soldering wire alloy uses silver or bismuth i believe and is more expensive
So for the pins flip it over heat the solder point with the iron till liquid then use the solder sucker to remove most then heat up each pin with solder wic and it should then just fall out
if you hold the raspberry pi securely upside down, you can heat up the pins individually and using a pair of needle nose pliers pull the pins out through the plastic, when the pins get hot they will slide through the plastic with ease so they do not need to be removed
Total respect for your skills and determination to see this through. Like other comments I found your raw honesty and "warts and all" delivery really refreshing - thank you. Of course I checked out the link to buy the cute little speaker and saw that they have some other cool designs that I will be checking out too. In this case I think I got to the part where you're snipping off the corners of the LCD screen and I said to myself - it would have been so much easier to design the entire case to size in Tinkercad 🤣. But that would have been a totally different type of challenge. Once again, well done sir!
I believe the rubber membrane is supposed to be a "bass reflex speaker" which effectively makes the internal size of the enclosure appear acoustically larger to the driver. It effectively acts like a spring.
The thing in the back is called a passive radiator. It actually emits sound, in this case, bass. It's weighted down to get the frequency response wanted. This kind of small speaker wouldn't be able to play this full of a sound without DSP (Digital Signal processor) that does some funky math and filtering to the sound before it's sent to the actual speaker. The science behind this is called "Psychoacoustics"
I use flat tip solder iron and make contact on the pins and try pushing them. I don't have fancy equipment but it always works for me, just need to be patient, and then take a desoldering braid and remove the excess solder left on the board!
For the desoldering of the header on something delicate like the raspeberry Pi, I would first add flux and leaded solder onto the existing pin header (to induce some lead into the lead-less solder that these ROHS boards use- it has a higher melting temp and is less ductile- a bit harder to work with), then remove as much of the existing solder as I could using solder wick/braid (or a solder sucker/desoldering gun), and then use some chip quick (indium low-melt solder) to flow into the bit of solder that you can't remove. Then a small amount of heat will melt the indium and you can remove the header (a heat gun works best, but a soldering iron or even a hair dryer will melt indium solder). Remove the rest of the indium solder with solder wick, flux and add a bit of a solder base to the pads, then add your new header. It's a bit of work, but I was having board layers separate and pads lift on certain delicate boards when trying to use just desolder. Even if you don't use the indium chip quick solder, definately replacing the lead-less solder that comes on the board with leaded solder will help get the pins off and not use as much heat. Also- get a heat gun- they are invaluable, especially when doing SMD or large headers. And get a temp controlled soldering iron- I had that same iron you're using an upgraded to a cheap Weller variable temp unit- it's analog without a temp gauge, but it has a dial for more/less power. It works really well- allows you to lower the heat for leaded solder and up it for lead-less solder. Ok! Good hunting!
This was the second video of yours I've seen and I'm soo glad I found your channel. This kind of stuff is what I want to learn how to do. But with zero experience I'm trying to figure out where to start. Good shit man
Nice build! Thanks for sharing :) The bit under the speaker is a ported passive radiator that increases the output at low frequency, it's a pretty good way of producing bass frequencies in a tiny enclosure.
I always use a heat gun for removing headers and through hole IC's. Works a charm as long as its level so you don't flow and shift something you don't mean to.
That is a passive radiator to increase the volume of the low frequencies compared to the high frequencies. It's like a bass port, but with less sloppy low end.
OK for the screen edges use some griding tool , and for the keyboard too.for desolder 40 pin , the simplest way mask the hole rasberri with capton tape and aluminium foil , and then use heatgun , but prehet the panel with hair dryer.
Love this. Id totally buy one of these! also, if you are looking for an add on idea for this, it definitely needs an rfid reader so you could make it more useful for daily operation like for spotify playlists or audiobooks
How you get a 40 pin Dupont connector off? You buy a ZD915 and a bit of flux and go over each pin with around 400 degrees C after you let it work for half a second you trigger the pump. This will likely work, but if it does not, take goot wick (brand) or some other nicer wick and go over them again with fresh leaded solder or even better low melt bismuth solder with copious amounts of flux. Do this outside since it stinks or suck the air off.
Dude, such a good project. i really like that u did that because you can do it. That is the point You said you don't know what to do with it you don't need to do anything you just saw that you can
to remove header pin you need a good solder wick gootwick is good and you need some good flux. also a nice and hot iron is good like a hacko. you wick up all the solder and then i like to run the iron uo and down the piins slowly and use a small screwdriver pry it up off the board.
So that extra speaker looks like it was used as a super mobile subwoofer paired with a port hole to make more low end however it makes no sense because The main speaker at the top has a much bigger cone for the lower end reproduction. So either their not sound engineers or they’ve potentially used the sub for the mid-highs and the big one for everything lower?
You can actually remove the headers fairly easily with the tools you have plus a heat gun. You don't want to bend the pins to remove the plastic. If you have to, use some sharp lead cutters to cut everything into individual squares. Then you can go one by one like you did which would probably be easiest. The headers in my experience are kind of hard to remove because they're almost pressure fitted, and unless you have really good wick or an expensive ass hakko, it's hard to remove all of the solder. Do you think you might have accidentally knocked anything loose when you desoldered? Because if that was the case, you really did all you could with what you had at your disposal. The other option imo would be to re-tin the header, remove all of the solder as best as you can, cover the rest of the board in the orange thermal tape and then have someone wave a cheap heat gun over the header while you try to evenly pull the header out with some needlenoses or something. One of those four arm board holders might be handy as well. I'm pretty much just a hobbyist though and some other people have given some good advice in the comments. This project rocks man, your other projects are great as well. You did the cyberdeck right? And the laptop made from a keyboard with a screen (I think that was another dude, and I'm misremembering your second DIY cyberdeck made with a mechanical keyboard as a base)? Glad you uploaded, I love the way you build shit. It's creative and janky. Just as I would have done something like this haha. Good luck on future projects man.
i find that if you heat header pins individually high enough you can pull them out with small pliers at the same time, even if they are soldered on to a board. this still takes a lot of effort but it is doable. that might work with the pi as well.
if i did this i would want to keep the original keyboard, and i would also want to try for a real CRT - but the insides of a CRT are extremely dangerous so I assume that would still apply to a tiny CRT, so i would have to ask for safety advice and help in calculating the discharge time of the capacitor to check if that project would even be possible to do safely
i did a bit of research, the most popular 4" CRT for DIY electronics is reportedly 12V DC 4 watts with many photos of people touching the circuit with their bare hands. so at least that one doesn't appear to be dangerous. however, for some strange reason its electron gun is underneath the screen pointing up instead of behind the screen, so i would have to use a different model and try to find out how dangerous it is. there are dozens of other tiny CRTs that have the electron gun behind the screen, so i would just have to find the right one.
Nice job but... 1 doubts and a suggestion: - Why dont you solder the wires in to the raspberry board?? - The next time use a dremmel for cut the screen :) Anyway, thanks for your video!
I'm in love with this. Totally something I'd do and I'm glad you did it for me. Eben though I would've had fun making it and oogled over how cute it was for a few days, I also have no use for it either. Side note, at 4:16, you can barely see the thing as the RUclips recommendation gets in the way. Something to remember to watch for on and take into account for in future videos. Anyways, glad I saw this in my recommendations and am looking forward to seeing what more you come up with in the future. Until then, I've got some work to do binging your previous videos.
What I do to remove the headers is just go pin by pin. If you just put your souldering iron on 1 pin at a timd, wait for the solded to melt completely and gently push on the pin, yout can get most of the way through, from there I grab it with a small pair of pliers ant lift it out of the board completely.
Thanks. And good to hear my channel is actually getting recommended to non-subscribers by the Algo, I still have no idea why/how certain videos get promoted
@@CarterHurd Im not really sure about that, I like to see more video about fully functional portable cyber deck like this , maybe I should considering subscribe
Hope you enjoy it! I will say, the book is trippy and uses some different fonts in different sections to break up what's happening. Hopefully that translates OK to audio. It'll probably be fine, but wanted to mention it.
It is perfectly possible to remove an IDC header like this without special tools. Make sure that you add fresh leaded solder to lower the melting point, heat up the joint until molten and grab the pin from the opposite side of the PCB and pull straight up. The hot pin will pull out, straight trough the plastic part and come out without any mess.
Wick it with braided copper. It'll melt the solder and release the plastic. The wicking on the other side of the board will basically hold on to the pins, and you should just be able to pull them off with little resistance.
@@juansolo1617 That's how i used to do it, but the wicking action takes longer, so much more chance of damaging the PCB and especially the trough-hole-plating.
You could just trim the headers, solder some wires directly to them, and use a bit of shrink tubing to cover it up. Wouldn’t have to do all 40, just the pins you’re using.
Divoom: "Dude, all we wanted was a review".
It's really cool that they accepted this
same i want a view, not this trash he made
@@UltimateEntity trash?
@МЕМЕ.ехе you wanted a review of something that's just serving as the shell instead of the actual cool thing he made?
@@4rtie that cool thing is just the replaced inside which most peps can do the same
After seeing tons of other people's projects on RUclips come out _so perfectly,_ seeing a project like this be so scuffed is oddly like an aggravating breath of fresh air. Like seeing someone play your favorite video game poorly, this makes me want to do this project myself, lol! Great vid honestly, keep at it.
thanks….. i think
Yes. Seeing others do things perfectly makes me feel like there is an incredibly high standard that most people are capable of achieving when they do these projects. But to see a big name guy such as Mr. Hurd fail and have various bloopers during the production of this project was just refreshing. Goes to show that mistakes are more common than what is perceived online!
That's the premis of RUclips, it was supposed to be a platform full of screw-ups but ended up with full of professional builds as well as screw-ups. Basically Everything & nothing is perfect & that's what makes RUclips a decent platform.
That's a resonance port but with a diaphragm in it to prevent dust ingress. It allows the speaker cone to move freely in the chassis regardless of changes in pressure internally. someone else might know more than me
This makes a lot of sense. Thanks!
Only thing I can add is everything he said significantly extends the low frequency response of the driver. Why it had a solid, quality sound to it vs hollow plastic sounding.
Nice touch on their part.
Looks more like a passive radiator (sometimes called "drone cone"). It's like a speaker that isn't powered, it only uses the pressure inside of the speaker enclosure that the main driver (speaker) is creating, to extend the low end of the unit. It's pretty common in 2- and 3-way nearfield studio monitors nowadays since they usually are using small woofers that can't recreate low frequencies (usually 5" and below). Using a passive radiator, instead of having bass ports, lets you place the monitors closer to walls without loosing low end information. Portable bluetooth speakers also use passive radiators instead of bass ports because you probably don't want large holes in your bluetooth speaker where dirt and moisture can enter.
_"In the same way as a ported loudspeaker, a passive radiator system uses the sound pressure otherwise trapped in the enclosure to excite a resonance that makes it easier for the speaker system to create the deepest pitches"_
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passive_radiator_(speaker)
@@nj1255 Found the relevant comment.
Also the passive radiator adds cubic space so the box that the speaker is in acts bigger than it is and still gives tight bass like a sealed box does vs a ported box in which the bass is looser. But louder. Best of both worlds... Louder and tighter.
The fact that you'll just clip anything... Amazing. And the shout out to your family, you a real one!
Alright gang we're gonna find out happens when I clip this random object.
Fun Fact: You can clip anything (Warning not responsible if it breaks)
@@NoFaceCobain clip your gun tasting
kinda surprised he didn't try to clip the 40pin header off.
Love how inperfect it is.
Other people vids of same shit is so perfect, it look fake.
White part is a ported passive radiator. In this case its basically making the whole enclosure into a bandpass.
I like your funny words magic man
Cool build! Some (hopefully_ useful tips for the future:
1. Typically you want a desoldering gun, a soldering iron, and fresh solder, to remove a large pin header like that. You want to tin one of the pins on the embedded header with fresh solder, then use the desoldering gun to remove all the solder from that pin. Repeat for all 40 pins and then it will come cleanly out. (alternatively you can buy a Raspberry Pi without the pin headers and just solder the one you want on).
2. Highly suggest getting a Dremel for next time, as they offer you a lot more control over the removal and shaping of material on a piece.
Overall, it's a neat little project!
solder braid does the job for me
@@cliveramsbotty6077 That also works, but it can be tricky for things like this. Regardless, he has options :)
yeah! i cringed at the glass breaking, and with the very bad soldering job. the PC is still very cute but could've also used a custom UI to fit with the retro look more xD
I like this technique: ruclips.net/video/9jpotpIO1-U/видео.html
Soldering all the pins together then using some prying force once they're all melted.
@@samhud4 A bit riskier on the PCB, but it's a possibility
That port with the white part is called a passive radiator and yes it makes the bass feel more seperate from the main speakers but it doesn't have a voice coil
I've been wanting to make something like this as a bit of an art piece to display in my home studio. Essentially I just want to be able to run milkytracker or fasttracker on it in a constant loop and when people ask, "what is this?" I'd just have them hit a mute button on the keyboard that would let them hear the music. Milkytracker runs on raspberry pi's so your kinda already there with it.
this janky, makeshift, but modern version of the janky, makeshift, but futuristic cyberpunk style of making electronics is so cool
The white piece going to the port on the back is a bass diffuser.
It's basically a speaker cone without a magnet or coil, and it's used to make the cabinet produce bass like a ported cabinet, but keeping it airtight like a sealed cabinet, giving a decent balance between both types. Good deep bass response, but also a decent punchy response for the mids.
Oh man, removing pin headers is a PAIN.
I was doing the same today and I have some tips for you. Yes, it's easier if you remove the plastic spacers, I sometimes cut through them by melting them with the soldering iron - it's not pretty, but it puts less strain on the traces than just pulling at them. Make your soldering iron hotter than you normally would just for soldering, like 350/400 degrees. Once you have the pins out and you want to clean up the holes, try using solder wick and flux instead of the sucker: Get your solder wick and drag it through flux so it's saturated, then press it to the pin holes with your iron and it will wick up the solder cleanly. If it's not wicking, try more flux. I think you can get pre-fluxed solder wick, so maybe try that. Wick with no flux is really difficult to get to work. Also have heard good things about hollow desoldering needles but haven't tried them yet.
oh also it sounds wierd but sometimes I find it helps to ADD solder to the headers at the start because fresh quality solder is often easier to remove than whatever they used on the board at the manufacturer.
@@isaacgraphics1416 fyi its likely because soldering wire is low temperature alloy, while industrial flow solder station use cheaper alloys.
Tin+lead is lower temp but because of regulations they prefer to just use tin at higher temps.
Lead-free soldering wire alloy uses silver or bismuth i believe and is more expensive
Your duracell screw driver threw me off for a sec 😂
3:40 Wowwwww!!!!!!! Simply fantastic
Cutting off the corners of the display is the most disrespectful thing ive ever seen and i love it
that domed display is BEAUTIFUL. i'll definitely do that once i get around to making a cyberdeck :)
So for the pins flip it over heat the solder point with the iron till liquid then use the solder sucker to remove most then heat up each pin with solder wic and it should then just fall out
if you hold the raspberry pi securely upside down, you can heat up the pins individually and using a pair of needle nose pliers pull the pins out through the plastic, when the pins get hot they will slide through the plastic with ease so they do not need to be removed
You can cut glass under water without it cracking. If you were to do it on displays, you might have to use destilled water.
Total respect for your skills and determination to see this through. Like other comments I found your raw honesty and "warts and all" delivery really refreshing - thank you. Of course I checked out the link to buy the cute little speaker and saw that they have some other cool designs that I will be checking out too. In this case I think I got to the part where you're snipping off the corners of the LCD screen and I said to myself - it would have been so much easier to design the entire case to size in Tinkercad 🤣. But that would have been a totally different type of challenge. Once again, well done sir!
Why not 3D print a deeper base/bottom cover to fit the pi more easily?
Cause views. I bet this shit went directly to the bin after
I believe the rubber membrane is supposed to be a "bass reflex speaker" which effectively makes the internal size of the enclosure appear acoustically larger to the driver. It effectively acts like a spring.
The thing in the back is called a passive radiator. It actually emits sound, in this case, bass. It's weighted down to get the frequency response wanted. This kind of small speaker wouldn't be able to play this full of a sound without DSP (Digital Signal processor) that does some funky math and filtering to the sound before it's sent to the actual speaker. The science behind this is called "Psychoacoustics"
No idea what you just said but I absolutely loved it. Thanks for this build.
The company sent me this wanting a review, but I don’t do reviews, so I thought it’d be funny to do this instead
@@CarterHurd Oh, I got that part, lol, it's just the teck-babble stuff after, like some cool popular mechanics asmr. Good stuff.
I use flat tip solder iron and make contact on the pins and try pushing them. I don't have fancy equipment but it always works for me, just need to be patient, and then take a desoldering braid and remove the excess solder left on the board!
This might be the coolest thing I've seen today
For the desoldering of the header on something delicate like the raspeberry Pi, I would first add flux and leaded solder onto the existing pin header (to induce some lead into the lead-less solder that these ROHS boards use- it has a higher melting temp and is less ductile- a bit harder to work with), then remove as much of the existing solder as I could using solder wick/braid (or a solder sucker/desoldering gun), and then use some chip quick (indium low-melt solder) to flow into the bit of solder that you can't remove. Then a small amount of heat will melt the indium and you can remove the header (a heat gun works best, but a soldering iron or even a hair dryer will melt indium solder). Remove the rest of the indium solder with solder wick, flux and add a bit of a solder base to the pads, then add your new header. It's a bit of work, but I was having board layers separate and pads lift on certain delicate boards when trying to use just desolder. Even if you don't use the indium chip quick solder, definately replacing the lead-less solder that comes on the board with leaded solder will help get the pins off and not use as much heat. Also- get a heat gun- they are invaluable, especially when doing SMD or large headers. And get a temp controlled soldering iron- I had that same iron you're using an upgraded to a cheap Weller variable temp unit- it's analog without a temp gauge, but it has a dial for more/less power. It works really well- allows you to lower the heat for leaded solder and up it for lead-less solder. Ok! Good hunting!
This is a fun build but why didn't you 3d print a bottom?
nice build my man always like seeing your process!
This was the second video of yours I've seen and I'm soo glad I found your channel. This kind of stuff is what I want to learn how to do. But with zero experience I'm trying to figure out where to start. Good shit man
Great build. You made a custom PLA bezel, why not just do the same with the base?
Nice build! Thanks for sharing :) The bit under the speaker is a ported passive radiator that increases the output at low frequency, it's a pretty good way of producing bass frequencies in a tiny enclosure.
I always use a heat gun for removing headers and through hole IC's. Works a charm as long as its level so you don't flow and shift something you don't mean to.
b-b-but does it play Doooom?
Well, I did try MineCraft... the WASD keys are way too small
Seems like the perfect job for a Zero 2 W.
That is a passive radiator to increase the volume of the low frequencies compared to the high frequencies. It's like a bass port, but with less sloppy low end.
This was the msot chaotic thing I'd witnessed this week but I gotta say, it is a cute mini PC. I reluctantly enjoyed this 😅😅.
That is cute. I think I'd use it as a timer in the kitchen.
OK for the screen edges use some griding tool , and for the keyboard too.for desolder 40 pin , the simplest way mask the hole rasberri with capton tape and aluminium foil , and then use heatgun , but prehet the panel with hair dryer.
you deserve more everything, views, likes, subs. youre a great content creator; if not slightly insane
Love this. Id totally buy one of these! also, if you are looking for an add on idea for this, it definitely needs an rfid reader so you could make it more useful for daily operation like for spotify playlists or audiobooks
You've made the best looking little Pico8 console ever!
Really cool project, love the variety on this channel
Glowing heart of optimism... 🤣😂🤣😂🤣🤣🤣😂🤣😂
Love it!
You should use soldering wick to remove those pins instead of desoldering pump they will come right off.
How you get a 40 pin Dupont connector off?
You buy a ZD915 and a bit of flux and go over each pin with around 400 degrees C after you let it work for half a second you trigger the pump. This will likely work, but if it does not, take goot wick (brand) or some other nicer wick and go over them again with fresh leaded solder or even better low melt bismuth solder with copious amounts of flux. Do this outside since it stinks or suck the air off.
The rough, one handed dissassembly and snipping screens, shortened my life by a year. other than that, great video.
If that thing was an actual product for the Raspberry Pi, I’d buy that right now.
only problem is there are no raspy pi's lol
@@jotr.9786 unless you check Amazon, but they’re selling them for $100.
@@MasterH2005 even some of the used ones are selling for around 100$ lol
Dude, such a good project. i really like that u did that because you can do it. That is the point You said you don't know what to do with it you don't need to do anything you just saw that you can
Honestly an awesome little speaker to make something out of
When the DIVOOM raspberry pi case come out ?
to remove header pin you need a good solder wick gootwick is good and you need some good flux. also a nice and hot iron is good like a hacko. you wick up all the solder and then i like to run the iron uo and down the piins slowly and use a small screwdriver pry it up off the board.
Awesome project! Loved the build! I really like how you captured the aesthetic with the moulded plastic screen cover.
So that extra speaker looks like it was used as a super mobile subwoofer paired with a port hole to make more low end however it makes no sense because The main speaker at the top has a much bigger cone for the lower end reproduction. So either their not sound engineers or they’ve potentially used the sub for the mid-highs and the big one for everything lower?
Coming back to rewatch and comment for the algo. 👍🏻
Great work. Inspiring. Just stumbled upon this video and your channel today. Really loved what you did here.
Welcome aboard!
You are truly a talented person. 👍
Fun to see the BBQ20KBD being used for this, cool project!
Heat gun or a hot air flow rework station to remove 40 pin. Super easy, barely an inconvenience.
Just stumbled onto this channel and I've never seen a more satisfying jank build. The cracked screen even gives it more character lmao
Welp… If you like jank you’re gonna like a lot of my other videos haha
That's the most brilliant procrastinating work of an engineer I've ever seen lol
You can actually remove the headers fairly easily with the tools you have plus a heat gun. You don't want to bend the pins to remove the plastic. If you have to, use some sharp lead cutters to cut everything into individual squares. Then you can go one by one like you did which would probably be easiest. The headers in my experience are kind of hard to remove because they're almost pressure fitted, and unless you have really good wick or an expensive ass hakko, it's hard to remove all of the solder. Do you think you might have accidentally knocked anything loose when you desoldered? Because if that was the case, you really did all you could with what you had at your disposal. The other option imo would be to re-tin the header, remove all of the solder as best as you can, cover the rest of the board in the orange thermal tape and then have someone wave a cheap heat gun over the header while you try to evenly pull the header out with some needlenoses or something. One of those four arm board holders might be handy as well. I'm pretty much just a hobbyist though and some other people have given some good advice in the comments. This project rocks man, your other projects are great as well. You did the cyberdeck right? And the laptop made from a keyboard with a screen (I think that was another dude, and I'm misremembering your second DIY cyberdeck made with a mechanical keyboard as a base)? Glad you uploaded, I love the way you build shit. It's creative and janky. Just as I would have done something like this haha. Good luck on future projects man.
Remove solder with a hot-plate. But in this case, why not Pi Zero W, the smaller version of the Pi3.
Nice Video. Desoldering the headers I'd either use a desoldering station or surprisingly the Engineer solder sucker SS-02 also works pretty well.
I think thats combination of passive radiator and regular reflex port.
The white part is a bass shaker or at least looked like a transducer to one
i find that if you heat header pins individually high enough you can pull them out with small pliers at the same time, even if they are soldered on to a board. this still takes a lot of effort but it is doable. that might work with the pi as well.
if i did this i would want to keep the original keyboard, and i would also want to try for a real CRT - but the insides of a CRT are extremely dangerous so I assume that would still apply to a tiny CRT, so i would have to ask for safety advice and help in calculating the discharge time of the capacitor to check if that project would even be possible to do safely
i did a bit of research, the most popular 4" CRT for DIY electronics is reportedly 12V DC 4 watts with many photos of people touching the circuit with their bare hands. so at least that one doesn't appear to be dangerous. however, for some strange reason its electron gun is underneath the screen pointing up instead of behind the screen, so i would have to use a different model and try to find out how dangerous it is. there are dozens of other tiny CRTs that have the electron gun behind the screen, so i would just have to find the right one.
Nice job but... 1 doubts and a suggestion:
- Why dont you solder the wires in to the raspberry board??
- The next time use a dremmel for cut the screen :)
Anyway, thanks for your video!
3:24 "I ordered a new Raspberry Pi"
HOW??? Where did you get one?? How much did it cost?
I bought a used Pi 2 model B, cause none of the newer ones were available
Dude you are a genius
I'm in love with this. Totally something I'd do and I'm glad you did it for me. Eben though I would've had fun making it and oogled over how cute it was for a few days, I also have no use for it either.
Side note, at 4:16, you can barely see the thing as the RUclips recommendation gets in the way. Something to remember to watch for on and take into account for in future videos. Anyways, glad I saw this in my recommendations and am looking forward to seeing what more you come up with in the future. Until then, I've got some work to do binging your previous videos.
Good catch, I’ll move the recommendation box thanks
@@CarterHurd Didn't know you can move that in post. Thanks!
my friend had that black berry I found the touch button cool, I much preferred the roller ball mine had though
The roller ball was super cool
That thing was actually legit quality.
I love this channel. This thing is interesting
Cute dog alert @4:08!
It's SO cute!
What I do to remove the headers is just go pin by pin. If you just put your souldering iron on 1 pin at a timd, wait for the solded to melt completely and gently push on the pin, yout can get most of the way through, from there I grab it with a small pair of pliers ant lift it out of the board completely.
So cute, holy hell
Nah that's ugly
4:00 I think this junk in the trunk is pretty cool
Very random youtube recommendations but your video was good, the cyber deck looks so small but fully functional
Thanks. And good to hear my channel is actually getting recommended to non-subscribers by the Algo, I still have no idea why/how certain videos get promoted
@@CarterHurd Im not really sure about that, I like to see more video about fully functional portable cyber deck like this , maybe I should considering subscribe
@@CarterHurd how about something like handheld cyber deck that actually a pc
I felt hurt when I see you just trim whatever the hell you wanted to trim.
got your uncles book looking forward to it on Audible. You are inspiring also great work.
Hope you enjoy it! I will say, the book is trippy and uses some different fonts in different sections to break up what's happening. Hopefully that translates OK to audio. It'll probably be fine, but wanted to mention it.
It is perfectly possible to remove an IDC header like this without special tools. Make sure that you add fresh leaded solder to lower the melting point, heat up the joint until molten and grab the pin from the opposite side of the PCB and pull straight up. The hot pin will pull out, straight trough the plastic part and come out without any mess.
Wick it with braided copper. It'll melt the solder and release the plastic. The wicking on the other side of the board will basically hold on to the pins, and you should just be able to pull them off with little resistance.
@@juansolo1617 That's how i used to do it, but the wicking action takes longer, so much more chance of damaging the PCB and especially the trough-hole-plating.
really enjoyed watching this
great content as usual
You need a solder wick. Also, use a slow Dremel grinder AND WATCH WHAT YOU'RE DOING to trim corners on repurposed pcbs.
**closes eyes in lieu of safety glasses*
Dude this thing is sick I'll buy it
oh I'm here for this.
You disigne and print some part but why you no redraw all model for fit all your piece without broke all?
The company wanted a review and I thought it’d be funny to totally re-do their product instead
You could just trim the headers, solder some wires directly to them, and use a bit of shrink tubing to cover it up. Wouldn’t have to do all 40, just the pins you’re using.
That was a passive bass radiator to produce low frequency in small case. Same like you found in the JBL Bluetooth speakers.
Didn’t know that grown up Andrew from The Big Mouth had a RUclips channel!
Nice voice, bro
Awesome dude
Chad amongst gods, stay winning.
If it's not going to used regularly, why not go with a Pi Zero W?
I really should have.
Very nice great job !
Black PCB? As if that costs more?
Love what you have done with it!
Ridiculous. I love it!