My ˢᵐᵃˡˡᵉˢᵗ CyberDeck Build

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  • Опубликовано: 23 дек 2024

Комментарии • 467

  • @JohnJones-oy3md
    @JohnJones-oy3md 2 года назад +1406

    Divoom: "Dude, all we wanted was a review".

    • @Gilotopia
      @Gilotopia 2 года назад +74

      It's really cool that they accepted this

    • @UltimateEntity
      @UltimateEntity 2 года назад +17

      same i want a view, not this trash he made

    • @qhronoz1554
      @qhronoz1554 2 года назад +12

      @@UltimateEntity trash?

    • @4rtie
      @4rtie 2 года назад +8

      @МЕМЕ.ехе you wanted a review of something that's just serving as the shell instead of the actual cool thing he made?

    • @UltimateEntity
      @UltimateEntity 2 года назад +6

      @@4rtie that cool thing is just the replaced inside which most peps can do the same

  • @Providence83
    @Providence83 2 года назад +346

    After seeing tons of other people's projects on RUclips come out _so perfectly,_ seeing a project like this be so scuffed is oddly like an aggravating breath of fresh air. Like seeing someone play your favorite video game poorly, this makes me want to do this project myself, lol! Great vid honestly, keep at it.

    • @CarterHurd
      @CarterHurd  2 года назад +93

      thanks….. i think

    • @umamifan
      @umamifan 2 года назад +26

      Yes. Seeing others do things perfectly makes me feel like there is an incredibly high standard that most people are capable of achieving when they do these projects. But to see a big name guy such as Mr. Hurd fail and have various bloopers during the production of this project was just refreshing. Goes to show that mistakes are more common than what is perceived online!

    • @MAG320
      @MAG320 2 года назад +6

      That's the premis of RUclips, it was supposed to be a platform full of screw-ups but ended up with full of professional builds as well as screw-ups. Basically Everything & nothing is perfect & that's what makes RUclips a decent platform.

  • @cliveramsbotty6077
    @cliveramsbotty6077 2 года назад +372

    That's a resonance port but with a diaphragm in it to prevent dust ingress. It allows the speaker cone to move freely in the chassis regardless of changes in pressure internally. someone else might know more than me

    • @CarterHurd
      @CarterHurd  2 года назад +32

      This makes a lot of sense. Thanks!

    • @gavincurtis
      @gavincurtis 2 года назад +19

      Only thing I can add is everything he said significantly extends the low frequency response of the driver. Why it had a solid, quality sound to it vs hollow plastic sounding.
      Nice touch on their part.

    • @nj1255
      @nj1255 2 года назад +19

      Looks more like a passive radiator (sometimes called "drone cone"). It's like a speaker that isn't powered, it only uses the pressure inside of the speaker enclosure that the main driver (speaker) is creating, to extend the low end of the unit. It's pretty common in 2- and 3-way nearfield studio monitors nowadays since they usually are using small woofers that can't recreate low frequencies (usually 5" and below). Using a passive radiator, instead of having bass ports, lets you place the monitors closer to walls without loosing low end information. Portable bluetooth speakers also use passive radiators instead of bass ports because you probably don't want large holes in your bluetooth speaker where dirt and moisture can enter.
      _"In the same way as a ported loudspeaker, a passive radiator system uses the sound pressure otherwise trapped in the enclosure to excite a resonance that makes it easier for the speaker system to create the deepest pitches"_
      en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passive_radiator_(speaker)

    • @zsigmondkara
      @zsigmondkara 2 года назад +1

      @@nj1255 Found the relevant comment.

    • @MrPeterMerkin
      @MrPeterMerkin 2 года назад +2

      Also the passive radiator adds cubic space so the box that the speaker is in acts bigger than it is and still gives tight bass like a sealed box does vs a ported box in which the bass is looser. But louder. Best of both worlds... Louder and tighter.

  • @DommoDommo
    @DommoDommo 2 года назад +111

    The fact that you'll just clip anything... Amazing. And the shout out to your family, you a real one!

    • @TheGalacticWest
      @TheGalacticWest 2 года назад

      Alright gang we're gonna find out happens when I clip this random object.

    • @NoFaceCobain
      @NoFaceCobain 2 года назад +4

      Fun Fact: You can clip anything (Warning not responsible if it breaks)

    • @JWI515
      @JWI515 2 года назад

      @@NoFaceCobain clip your gun tasting

    • @Br1ckInTh3W4LL
      @Br1ckInTh3W4LL 2 года назад

      kinda surprised he didn't try to clip the 40pin header off.

  • @SkwigelfChan
    @SkwigelfChan Год назад +4

    Love how inperfect it is.
    Other people vids of same shit is so perfect, it look fake.

  • @DMS3TV
    @DMS3TV 2 года назад +35

    White part is a ported passive radiator. In this case its basically making the whole enclosure into a bandpass.

    • @AZ-1003
      @AZ-1003 2 года назад +2

      I like your funny words magic man

  • @xPLAYnOfficial
    @xPLAYnOfficial 2 года назад +95

    Cool build! Some (hopefully_ useful tips for the future:
    1. Typically you want a desoldering gun, a soldering iron, and fresh solder, to remove a large pin header like that. You want to tin one of the pins on the embedded header with fresh solder, then use the desoldering gun to remove all the solder from that pin. Repeat for all 40 pins and then it will come cleanly out. (alternatively you can buy a Raspberry Pi without the pin headers and just solder the one you want on).
    2. Highly suggest getting a Dremel for next time, as they offer you a lot more control over the removal and shaping of material on a piece.
    Overall, it's a neat little project!

    • @cliveramsbotty6077
      @cliveramsbotty6077 2 года назад +3

      solder braid does the job for me

    • @xPLAYnOfficial
      @xPLAYnOfficial 2 года назад +4

      @@cliveramsbotty6077 That also works, but it can be tricky for things like this. Regardless, he has options :)

    • @SlinkySlonkyWaffle
      @SlinkySlonkyWaffle 2 года назад +7

      yeah! i cringed at the glass breaking, and with the very bad soldering job. the PC is still very cute but could've also used a custom UI to fit with the retro look more xD

    • @samhud4
      @samhud4 2 года назад

      I like this technique: ruclips.net/video/9jpotpIO1-U/видео.html
      Soldering all the pins together then using some prying force once they're all melted.

    • @xPLAYnOfficial
      @xPLAYnOfficial 2 года назад +1

      @@samhud4 A bit riskier on the PCB, but it's a possibility

  • @stonedsavage7814
    @stonedsavage7814 2 года назад +5

    That port with the white part is called a passive radiator and yes it makes the bass feel more seperate from the main speakers but it doesn't have a voice coil

  • @LdotSdot210
    @LdotSdot210 2 года назад +10

    I've been wanting to make something like this as a bit of an art piece to display in my home studio. Essentially I just want to be able to run milkytracker or fasttracker on it in a constant loop and when people ask, "what is this?" I'd just have them hit a mute button on the keyboard that would let them hear the music. Milkytracker runs on raspberry pi's so your kinda already there with it.

  • @jaws5671
    @jaws5671 2 года назад +3

    this janky, makeshift, but modern version of the janky, makeshift, but futuristic cyberpunk style of making electronics is so cool

  • @Bleats_Sinodai
    @Bleats_Sinodai Год назад +1

    The white piece going to the port on the back is a bass diffuser.
    It's basically a speaker cone without a magnet or coil, and it's used to make the cabinet produce bass like a ported cabinet, but keeping it airtight like a sealed cabinet, giving a decent balance between both types. Good deep bass response, but also a decent punchy response for the mids.

  • @isaacgraphics1416
    @isaacgraphics1416 2 года назад +4

    Oh man, removing pin headers is a PAIN.
    I was doing the same today and I have some tips for you. Yes, it's easier if you remove the plastic spacers, I sometimes cut through them by melting them with the soldering iron - it's not pretty, but it puts less strain on the traces than just pulling at them. Make your soldering iron hotter than you normally would just for soldering, like 350/400 degrees. Once you have the pins out and you want to clean up the holes, try using solder wick and flux instead of the sucker: Get your solder wick and drag it through flux so it's saturated, then press it to the pin holes with your iron and it will wick up the solder cleanly. If it's not wicking, try more flux. I think you can get pre-fluxed solder wick, so maybe try that. Wick with no flux is really difficult to get to work. Also have heard good things about hollow desoldering needles but haven't tried them yet.

    • @isaacgraphics1416
      @isaacgraphics1416 2 года назад +2

      oh also it sounds wierd but sometimes I find it helps to ADD solder to the headers at the start because fresh quality solder is often easier to remove than whatever they used on the board at the manufacturer.

    • @Personnenenparle
      @Personnenenparle 2 года назад

      @@isaacgraphics1416 fyi its likely because soldering wire is low temperature alloy, while industrial flow solder station use cheaper alloys.
      Tin+lead is lower temp but because of regulations they prefer to just use tin at higher temps.
      Lead-free soldering wire alloy uses silver or bismuth i believe and is more expensive

  • @mgames1710
    @mgames1710 2 года назад +3

    Your duracell screw driver threw me off for a sec 😂

  • @juniorchavesopicassodeyahu988
    @juniorchavesopicassodeyahu988 3 месяца назад +1

    3:40 Wowwwww!!!!!!! Simply fantastic

  • @cyn0_
    @cyn0_ 2 года назад +4

    Cutting off the corners of the display is the most disrespectful thing ive ever seen and i love it

  • @sufferingincorporatedtm1781
    @sufferingincorporatedtm1781 7 месяцев назад +1

    that domed display is BEAUTIFUL. i'll definitely do that once i get around to making a cyberdeck :)

  • @Deathksi
    @Deathksi 8 месяцев назад +1

    So for the pins flip it over heat the solder point with the iron till liquid then use the solder sucker to remove most then heat up each pin with solder wic and it should then just fall out

  • @andrewchapman879
    @andrewchapman879 2 года назад +1

    if you hold the raspberry pi securely upside down, you can heat up the pins individually and using a pair of needle nose pliers pull the pins out through the plastic, when the pins get hot they will slide through the plastic with ease so they do not need to be removed

  • @holzwurm_hd7029
    @holzwurm_hd7029 2 года назад +3

    You can cut glass under water without it cracking. If you were to do it on displays, you might have to use destilled water.

  • @bbasmdc
    @bbasmdc 11 месяцев назад

    Total respect for your skills and determination to see this through. Like other comments I found your raw honesty and "warts and all" delivery really refreshing - thank you. Of course I checked out the link to buy the cute little speaker and saw that they have some other cool designs that I will be checking out too. In this case I think I got to the part where you're snipping off the corners of the LCD screen and I said to myself - it would have been so much easier to design the entire case to size in Tinkercad 🤣. But that would have been a totally different type of challenge. Once again, well done sir!

  • @darkfungang
    @darkfungang 2 года назад +7

    Why not 3D print a deeper base/bottom cover to fit the pi more easily?

    • @Alex_the_Reign
      @Alex_the_Reign 2 года назад

      Cause views. I bet this shit went directly to the bin after

  • @charliemopps4926
    @charliemopps4926 2 года назад +1

    I believe the rubber membrane is supposed to be a "bass reflex speaker" which effectively makes the internal size of the enclosure appear acoustically larger to the driver. It effectively acts like a spring.

  • @zaprodk
    @zaprodk 2 года назад +2

    The thing in the back is called a passive radiator. It actually emits sound, in this case, bass. It's weighted down to get the frequency response wanted. This kind of small speaker wouldn't be able to play this full of a sound without DSP (Digital Signal processor) that does some funky math and filtering to the sound before it's sent to the actual speaker. The science behind this is called "Psychoacoustics"

  • @chefskiss6179
    @chefskiss6179 2 года назад +2

    No idea what you just said but I absolutely loved it. Thanks for this build.

    • @CarterHurd
      @CarterHurd  2 года назад +1

      The company sent me this wanting a review, but I don’t do reviews, so I thought it’d be funny to do this instead

    • @chefskiss6179
      @chefskiss6179 2 года назад

      @@CarterHurd Oh, I got that part, lol, it's just the teck-babble stuff after, like some cool popular mechanics asmr. Good stuff.

  • @50rupees75
    @50rupees75 2 года назад

    I use flat tip solder iron and make contact on the pins and try pushing them. I don't have fancy equipment but it always works for me, just need to be patient, and then take a desoldering braid and remove the excess solder left on the board!

  • @SamBeast596
    @SamBeast596 2 года назад +1

    This might be the coolest thing I've seen today

  • @BenWard29
    @BenWard29 2 года назад +2

    For the desoldering of the header on something delicate like the raspeberry Pi, I would first add flux and leaded solder onto the existing pin header (to induce some lead into the lead-less solder that these ROHS boards use- it has a higher melting temp and is less ductile- a bit harder to work with), then remove as much of the existing solder as I could using solder wick/braid (or a solder sucker/desoldering gun), and then use some chip quick (indium low-melt solder) to flow into the bit of solder that you can't remove. Then a small amount of heat will melt the indium and you can remove the header (a heat gun works best, but a soldering iron or even a hair dryer will melt indium solder). Remove the rest of the indium solder with solder wick, flux and add a bit of a solder base to the pads, then add your new header. It's a bit of work, but I was having board layers separate and pads lift on certain delicate boards when trying to use just desolder. Even if you don't use the indium chip quick solder, definately replacing the lead-less solder that comes on the board with leaded solder will help get the pins off and not use as much heat. Also- get a heat gun- they are invaluable, especially when doing SMD or large headers. And get a temp controlled soldering iron- I had that same iron you're using an upgraded to a cheap Weller variable temp unit- it's analog without a temp gauge, but it has a dial for more/less power. It works really well- allows you to lower the heat for leaded solder and up it for lead-less solder. Ok! Good hunting!

  • @RansburgMakesArt
    @RansburgMakesArt 2 года назад +2

    This is a fun build but why didn't you 3d print a bottom?

  • @XtruhSpecialK
    @XtruhSpecialK 2 года назад +4

    nice build my man always like seeing your process!

  • @michaelmcguffin7160
    @michaelmcguffin7160 2 года назад

    This was the second video of yours I've seen and I'm soo glad I found your channel. This kind of stuff is what I want to learn how to do. But with zero experience I'm trying to figure out where to start. Good shit man

  • @MatthewCahn
    @MatthewCahn 2 года назад +1

    Great build. You made a custom PLA bezel, why not just do the same with the base?

  • @sonodrome
    @sonodrome Год назад +1

    Nice build! Thanks for sharing :) The bit under the speaker is a ported passive radiator that increases the output at low frequency, it's a pretty good way of producing bass frequencies in a tiny enclosure.

  • @flowmastak1
    @flowmastak1 2 года назад

    I always use a heat gun for removing headers and through hole IC's. Works a charm as long as its level so you don't flow and shift something you don't mean to.

  • @wuboAF
    @wuboAF 2 года назад +7

    b-b-but does it play Doooom?

    • @CarterHurd
      @CarterHurd  2 года назад +2

      Well, I did try MineCraft... the WASD keys are way too small

  • @theofficialczex1708
    @theofficialczex1708 2 года назад +4

    Seems like the perfect job for a Zero 2 W.

  • @Bubu567
    @Bubu567 2 года назад

    That is a passive radiator to increase the volume of the low frequencies compared to the high frequencies. It's like a bass port, but with less sloppy low end.

  • @TheCaliMack
    @TheCaliMack Год назад

    This was the msot chaotic thing I'd witnessed this week but I gotta say, it is a cute mini PC. I reluctantly enjoyed this 😅😅.

  • @Endelin
    @Endelin 2 года назад

    That is cute. I think I'd use it as a timer in the kitchen.

  • @ventusprime
    @ventusprime 2 года назад

    OK for the screen edges use some griding tool , and for the keyboard too.for desolder 40 pin , the simplest way mask the hole rasberri with capton tape and aluminium foil , and then use heatgun , but prehet the panel with hair dryer.

  • @tredecim881
    @tredecim881 2 года назад +2

    you deserve more everything, views, likes, subs. youre a great content creator; if not slightly insane

  • @heatherambrosio3851
    @heatherambrosio3851 7 месяцев назад

    Love this. Id totally buy one of these! also, if you are looking for an add on idea for this, it definitely needs an rfid reader so you could make it more useful for daily operation like for spotify playlists or audiobooks

  • @Liamkbrown
    @Liamkbrown 2 года назад +1

    You've made the best looking little Pico8 console ever!

  • @fortris
    @fortris 2 года назад +4

    Really cool project, love the variety on this channel

  • @GMDII
    @GMDII 2 года назад

    Glowing heart of optimism... 🤣😂🤣😂🤣🤣🤣😂🤣😂
    Love it!

  • @kurtwapow5822
    @kurtwapow5822 2 года назад +2

    You should use soldering wick to remove those pins instead of desoldering pump they will come right off.

  • @Xydail
    @Xydail 2 года назад

    How you get a 40 pin Dupont connector off?
    You buy a ZD915 and a bit of flux and go over each pin with around 400 degrees C after you let it work for half a second you trigger the pump. This will likely work, but if it does not, take goot wick (brand) or some other nicer wick and go over them again with fresh leaded solder or even better low melt bismuth solder with copious amounts of flux. Do this outside since it stinks or suck the air off.

  • @00nsqo
    @00nsqo 2 года назад

    The rough, one handed dissassembly and snipping screens, shortened my life by a year. other than that, great video.

  • @MasterH2005
    @MasterH2005 2 года назад +3

    If that thing was an actual product for the Raspberry Pi, I’d buy that right now.

    • @jotr.9786
      @jotr.9786 2 года назад

      only problem is there are no raspy pi's lol

    • @MasterH2005
      @MasterH2005 2 года назад

      @@jotr.9786 unless you check Amazon, but they’re selling them for $100.

    • @jotr.9786
      @jotr.9786 2 года назад +2

      @@MasterH2005 even some of the used ones are selling for around 100$ lol

  • @muharrembuyuksar3965
    @muharrembuyuksar3965 2 года назад

    Dude, such a good project. i really like that u did that because you can do it. That is the point You said you don't know what to do with it you don't need to do anything you just saw that you can

  • @bigwendigo2253
    @bigwendigo2253 2 года назад +1

    Honestly an awesome little speaker to make something out of

  • @kyanhluong
    @kyanhluong 2 года назад

    When the DIVOOM raspberry pi case come out ?

  • @antidecepticon
    @antidecepticon 2 года назад

    to remove header pin you need a good solder wick gootwick is good and you need some good flux. also a nice and hot iron is good like a hacko. you wick up all the solder and then i like to run the iron uo and down the piins slowly and use a small screwdriver pry it up off the board.

  • @ExercisingIngenuity
    @ExercisingIngenuity 2 года назад +4

    Awesome project! Loved the build! I really like how you captured the aesthetic with the moulded plastic screen cover.

  • @adamroycroft4455
    @adamroycroft4455 Год назад

    So that extra speaker looks like it was used as a super mobile subwoofer paired with a port hole to make more low end however it makes no sense because The main speaker at the top has a much bigger cone for the lower end reproduction. So either their not sound engineers or they’ve potentially used the sub for the mid-highs and the big one for everything lower?

  • @andrewwilliams5337
    @andrewwilliams5337 2 года назад +1

    Coming back to rewatch and comment for the algo. 👍🏻

  • @gregoryknight2928
    @gregoryknight2928 Год назад

    Great work. Inspiring. Just stumbled upon this video and your channel today. Really loved what you did here.

  • @MarkMphonoman
    @MarkMphonoman 2 года назад

    You are truly a talented person. 👍

  • @arturo182
    @arturo182 2 года назад +5

    Fun to see the BBQ20KBD being used for this, cool project!

  • @straydogstrut00
    @straydogstrut00 2 года назад

    Heat gun or a hot air flow rework station to remove 40 pin. Super easy, barely an inconvenience.

  • @shassafrass1770
    @shassafrass1770 2 года назад

    Just stumbled onto this channel and I've never seen a more satisfying jank build. The cracked screen even gives it more character lmao

    • @CarterHurd
      @CarterHurd  2 года назад +1

      Welp… If you like jank you’re gonna like a lot of my other videos haha

  • @abdelrahmaneldesouki
    @abdelrahmaneldesouki Год назад

    That's the most brilliant procrastinating work of an engineer I've ever seen lol

  • @rxblackpill
    @rxblackpill 2 года назад +4

    You can actually remove the headers fairly easily with the tools you have plus a heat gun. You don't want to bend the pins to remove the plastic. If you have to, use some sharp lead cutters to cut everything into individual squares. Then you can go one by one like you did which would probably be easiest. The headers in my experience are kind of hard to remove because they're almost pressure fitted, and unless you have really good wick or an expensive ass hakko, it's hard to remove all of the solder. Do you think you might have accidentally knocked anything loose when you desoldered? Because if that was the case, you really did all you could with what you had at your disposal. The other option imo would be to re-tin the header, remove all of the solder as best as you can, cover the rest of the board in the orange thermal tape and then have someone wave a cheap heat gun over the header while you try to evenly pull the header out with some needlenoses or something. One of those four arm board holders might be handy as well. I'm pretty much just a hobbyist though and some other people have given some good advice in the comments. This project rocks man, your other projects are great as well. You did the cyberdeck right? And the laptop made from a keyboard with a screen (I think that was another dude, and I'm misremembering your second DIY cyberdeck made with a mechanical keyboard as a base)? Glad you uploaded, I love the way you build shit. It's creative and janky. Just as I would have done something like this haha. Good luck on future projects man.

  • @JustinDuijn
    @JustinDuijn 2 года назад

    Remove solder with a hot-plate. But in this case, why not Pi Zero W, the smaller version of the Pi3.

  • @LayerCakeMakes
    @LayerCakeMakes 2 года назад +2

    Nice Video. Desoldering the headers I'd either use a desoldering station or surprisingly the Engineer solder sucker SS-02 also works pretty well.

  • @joelleino4507
    @joelleino4507 2 года назад

    I think thats combination of passive radiator and regular reflex port.

  • @hackthis1767
    @hackthis1767 Год назад

    The white part is a bass shaker or at least looked like a transducer to one

  • @iblackfeathers
    @iblackfeathers 2 года назад

    i find that if you heat header pins individually high enough you can pull them out with small pliers at the same time, even if they are soldered on to a board. this still takes a lot of effort but it is doable. that might work with the pi as well.

  • @tacokoneko
    @tacokoneko 2 года назад

    if i did this i would want to keep the original keyboard, and i would also want to try for a real CRT - but the insides of a CRT are extremely dangerous so I assume that would still apply to a tiny CRT, so i would have to ask for safety advice and help in calculating the discharge time of the capacitor to check if that project would even be possible to do safely

    • @tacokoneko
      @tacokoneko 2 года назад +1

      i did a bit of research, the most popular 4" CRT for DIY electronics is reportedly 12V DC 4 watts with many photos of people touching the circuit with their bare hands. so at least that one doesn't appear to be dangerous. however, for some strange reason its electron gun is underneath the screen pointing up instead of behind the screen, so i would have to use a different model and try to find out how dangerous it is. there are dozens of other tiny CRTs that have the electron gun behind the screen, so i would just have to find the right one.

  • @lordgrande
    @lordgrande 2 года назад

    Nice job but... 1 doubts and a suggestion:
    - Why dont you solder the wires in to the raspberry board??
    - The next time use a dremmel for cut the screen :)
    Anyway, thanks for your video!

  • @ggorg0
    @ggorg0 2 года назад +1

    3:24 "I ordered a new Raspberry Pi"
    HOW??? Where did you get one?? How much did it cost?

    • @CarterHurd
      @CarterHurd  2 года назад

      I bought a used Pi 2 model B, cause none of the newer ones were available

  • @MullicanDesigns
    @MullicanDesigns 2 года назад

    Dude you are a genius

  • @mrgw98
    @mrgw98 2 года назад

    I'm in love with this. Totally something I'd do and I'm glad you did it for me. Eben though I would've had fun making it and oogled over how cute it was for a few days, I also have no use for it either.
    Side note, at 4:16, you can barely see the thing as the RUclips recommendation gets in the way. Something to remember to watch for on and take into account for in future videos. Anyways, glad I saw this in my recommendations and am looking forward to seeing what more you come up with in the future. Until then, I've got some work to do binging your previous videos.

    • @CarterHurd
      @CarterHurd  2 года назад +1

      Good catch, I’ll move the recommendation box thanks

    • @mrgw98
      @mrgw98 2 года назад

      @@CarterHurd Didn't know you can move that in post. Thanks!

  • @justminibanana9128
    @justminibanana9128 2 года назад

    my friend had that black berry I found the touch button cool, I much preferred the roller ball mine had though

    • @CarterHurd
      @CarterHurd  2 года назад +1

      The roller ball was super cool

  • @xanselmox
    @xanselmox 2 года назад

    That thing was actually legit quality.

  • @robloxsplayer4
    @robloxsplayer4 2 года назад

    I love this channel. This thing is interesting

  • @jnkmal9519
    @jnkmal9519 2 года назад +2

    Cute dog alert @4:08!

  • @coreybutler6393
    @coreybutler6393 2 года назад

    It's SO cute!

  • @jacobhargiss3839
    @jacobhargiss3839 2 года назад

    What I do to remove the headers is just go pin by pin. If you just put your souldering iron on 1 pin at a timd, wait for the solded to melt completely and gently push on the pin, yout can get most of the way through, from there I grab it with a small pair of pliers ant lift it out of the board completely.

  • @nathanfranck5822
    @nathanfranck5822 2 года назад +5

    So cute, holy hell

  • @wmyttmlimvty
    @wmyttmlimvty 2 года назад

    4:00 I think this junk in the trunk is pretty cool

  • @kakakiri2601
    @kakakiri2601 2 года назад

    Very random youtube recommendations but your video was good, the cyber deck looks so small but fully functional

    • @CarterHurd
      @CarterHurd  2 года назад +1

      Thanks. And good to hear my channel is actually getting recommended to non-subscribers by the Algo, I still have no idea why/how certain videos get promoted

    • @kakakiri2601
      @kakakiri2601 2 года назад

      @@CarterHurd Im not really sure about that, I like to see more video about fully functional portable cyber deck like this , maybe I should considering subscribe

    • @kakakiri2601
      @kakakiri2601 2 года назад

      @@CarterHurd how about something like handheld cyber deck that actually a pc

  • @nappy4492
    @nappy4492 Год назад +4

    I felt hurt when I see you just trim whatever the hell you wanted to trim.

  • @MullicanDesigns
    @MullicanDesigns 2 года назад

    got your uncles book looking forward to it on Audible. You are inspiring also great work.

    • @CarterHurd
      @CarterHurd  2 года назад

      Hope you enjoy it! I will say, the book is trippy and uses some different fonts in different sections to break up what's happening. Hopefully that translates OK to audio. It'll probably be fine, but wanted to mention it.

  • @zaprodk
    @zaprodk 2 года назад

    It is perfectly possible to remove an IDC header like this without special tools. Make sure that you add fresh leaded solder to lower the melting point, heat up the joint until molten and grab the pin from the opposite side of the PCB and pull straight up. The hot pin will pull out, straight trough the plastic part and come out without any mess.

    • @juansolo1617
      @juansolo1617 2 года назад

      Wick it with braided copper. It'll melt the solder and release the plastic. The wicking on the other side of the board will basically hold on to the pins, and you should just be able to pull them off with little resistance.

    • @zaprodk
      @zaprodk 2 года назад

      @@juansolo1617 That's how i used to do it, but the wicking action takes longer, so much more chance of damaging the PCB and especially the trough-hole-plating.

  • @cdwizzerd
    @cdwizzerd 2 года назад

    really enjoyed watching this

  • @удивительный-б8х
    @удивительный-б8х 2 года назад

    great content as usual

  • @fmphotooffice5513
    @fmphotooffice5513 2 года назад

    You need a solder wick. Also, use a slow Dremel grinder AND WATCH WHAT YOU'RE DOING to trim corners on repurposed pcbs.

    • @CarterHurd
      @CarterHurd  2 года назад

      **closes eyes in lieu of safety glasses*

  • @cameronrich2536
    @cameronrich2536 Год назад

    Dude this thing is sick I'll buy it

  • @danielwgk
    @danielwgk 2 года назад

    oh I'm here for this.

  • @chaosvii9459
    @chaosvii9459 2 года назад

    You disigne and print some part but why you no redraw all model for fit all your piece without broke all?

    • @CarterHurd
      @CarterHurd  2 года назад

      The company wanted a review and I thought it’d be funny to totally re-do their product instead

  • @NakedGeep
    @NakedGeep 2 года назад

    You could just trim the headers, solder some wires directly to them, and use a bit of shrink tubing to cover it up. Wouldn’t have to do all 40, just the pins you’re using.

  • @dikshantwalia
    @dikshantwalia 2 года назад

    That was a passive bass radiator to produce low frequency in small case. Same like you found in the JBL Bluetooth speakers.

  • @voteto
    @voteto 2 года назад

    Didn’t know that grown up Andrew from The Big Mouth had a RUclips channel!
    Nice voice, bro

  • @Dr.Ninentysix
    @Dr.Ninentysix 2 года назад

    Awesome dude

  • @astrailiaous_Sempticreed
    @astrailiaous_Sempticreed 2 года назад

    Chad amongst gods, stay winning.

  • @theatremusician
    @theatremusician 2 года назад

    If it's not going to used regularly, why not go with a Pi Zero W?

  • @petesakes1985
    @petesakes1985 Год назад

    Very nice great job !

  • @thetruthexperiment
    @thetruthexperiment 2 года назад

    Black PCB? As if that costs more?

  • @smoger_moore8601
    @smoger_moore8601 2 года назад

    Love what you have done with it!

  • @timothywalsh866
    @timothywalsh866 2 года назад

    Ridiculous. I love it!