Iwata has changed the needle & nozzle design over the years. The earlier hp-c airbrush from the 80's & early 90's are a much finer gun. You can visibly see the difference in the nozzle design and needle taper. I stumbled across this information by buying a few older ones that did not say "anest" anywhere on the box. While also buying a couple of these newer ones at a discount brand new from a seller around 8 yrs ago. The hp-c is probably one of the best airbrushes evermade for what it can do. I would suggest not taking the aircap off and leaving the needle bare. It leads to tip dry and skipping and needle damage. I would recommend getting a crown cap. I've been using air brushes since 1988 so i can confidently give you good advice that took me years to learn. You should reduce your paint until your airbrush sprays perfectly @ 20 psi and adjust from there. (note, if you are getting whale tails at the end of your lines, the paint is too thick, or your pressure is too low.) You should also have a compressor with a holding tank or you will get pulsation in your paint lines.
I really enjoy, and have learnt so much from your channel. The "others" are blatant in the Amazon rip off airbrushes - "Abest" instead of "Anest" etc. I saw one of the Abest ones that was almost a direct copy of the Sparmax Max 3, (I understand that Sparmax and Iwata are in effect a couple?)... BTW, in addition to the Max 3, I use the flyer for larger area stuff, and have paint in 3rd party bottles that fit the flyer nozzles.
Thanks so much and yes, the direct Amazon ripoffs are quite amusing 😂 that’s great that you find the flyer great I have never tried one, I do love the Max 3 as well as 4 both are fantastic choices for someone who wants a quality value for money brush 👍🏻👍🏻
Just saw your reviews on various trigger airbrushes for broader work to replace the Flyer - looking at the Gaahleri, but could lash out on the Iwata.@@AirbrushAsylum
I'm new to your channel. I am just starting to learn, and bought an Iwata Eclipse. One thing I'm trying to do is apply paint to clear plastic, enough to light block, but not thickly applied. Can you suggest any tips - I'm concerned that I'll over apply paint.
The airbrush will atomize the paint finely so just do light coats until you are happy that you have enough coverage, keeping the air on all the time and just controlling the amount of paint with your trigger will also help to dry those layers , hope that helps 👍🏻🤩
I just ordered an Gaahleri mobius 0.2 mm can you please do a video on the mobius 0.2 or 0.3 mm cause brother I don’t trust anyone but your opinion! Thanks Sincerely Marc ( aka el padre airbrush)
@@AirbrushAsylum aw AWSOME ! Are you anywhere near my neck of the U.S.A. ? Or the upcoming eclipse our town in Johnstown pa will be in 90% totality ! I just got my mobius I ordered a 0.2 mm and Amazon screwed up and sent me a 0.3 mm so they are rush delivering a new one and will be here by Tuesday so hope you enjoy your holiday and I just did a video and up loaded it on my channel I did the movie full metal jacket ! And I used your bullet hole and rivet technique for the painting so thank you for your priceless insight! Talk to you soon my friend ! Marc
I’m beyond frustrated with this airbrush. I suspect it works just fine, but I must’ve gotten some paint into the trigger assembly, and I cannot for the life of me get enough torque to remove it.
Sorry to hear that you are frustrated , I totally understand as airbrushes can be very temperamental 🤦 take a look at this video which will help you remove the plunger assembly and hopefully fix your issue 🤞🏻👉🏻 ruclips.net/video/MyH0HTv0TU8/видео.htmlsi=02ecO1c0h4y9r1sO
🔥 Check out the Iwata HP.CH - ruclips.net/video/YN1FTavYZVk/видео.html
Iwata has changed the needle & nozzle design over the years. The earlier hp-c airbrush from the 80's & early 90's are a much finer gun. You can visibly see the difference in the nozzle design and needle taper. I stumbled across this information by buying a few older ones that did not say "anest" anywhere on the box. While also buying a couple of these newer ones at a discount brand new from a seller around 8 yrs ago. The hp-c is probably one of the best airbrushes evermade for what it can do. I would suggest not taking the aircap off and leaving the needle bare. It leads to tip dry and skipping and needle damage. I would recommend getting a crown cap. I've been using air brushes since 1988 so i can confidently give you good advice that took me years to learn. You should reduce your paint until your airbrush sprays perfectly @ 20 psi and adjust from there. (note, if you are getting whale tails at the end of your lines, the paint is too thick, or your pressure is too low.) You should also have a compressor with a holding tank or you will get pulsation in your paint lines.
Congratulations 🌹🌹🌹thank you sir, 🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹
Thanks glad you liked it 🙏🏻
Man, even the practice stuff you do really looks great!!
lol 😂 thank you 🙏🏻
I really enjoy, and have learnt so much from your channel. The "others" are blatant in the Amazon rip off airbrushes - "Abest" instead of "Anest" etc. I saw one of the Abest ones that was almost a direct copy of the Sparmax Max 3, (I understand that Sparmax and Iwata are in effect a couple?)... BTW, in addition to the Max 3, I use the flyer for larger area stuff, and have paint in 3rd party bottles that fit the flyer nozzles.
Thanks so much and yes, the direct Amazon ripoffs are quite amusing 😂 that’s great that you find the flyer great I have never tried one, I do love the Max 3 as well as 4 both are fantastic choices for someone who wants a quality value for money brush 👍🏻👍🏻
Just saw your reviews on various trigger airbrushes for broader work to replace the Flyer - looking at the Gaahleri, but could lash out on the Iwata.@@AirbrushAsylum
I'm new to your channel. I am just starting to learn, and bought an Iwata Eclipse.
One thing I'm trying to do is apply paint to clear plastic, enough to light block, but not thickly applied.
Can you suggest any tips - I'm concerned that I'll over apply paint.
The airbrush will atomize the paint finely so just do light coats until you are happy that you have enough coverage, keeping the air on all the time and just controlling the amount of paint with your trigger will also help to dry those layers , hope that helps 👍🏻🤩
@@AirbrushAsylum thank you! And I love your channel
What kind of paper do you use?
I use basic A3 art pads for general airbrushing and for detailed art I use Blair synthetic paper 👍🏻
@@AirbrushAsylum thanks
Muito top valeu apena conferir mestre. ...
Thank you and glad you think so 😉👍🏻
I just ordered an Gaahleri mobius 0.2 mm can you please do a video on the mobius 0.2 or 0.3 mm cause brother I don’t trust anyone but your opinion! Thanks
Sincerely
Marc ( aka el padre airbrush)
Yes mate I will I am just on a holiday so it will be a few weeks before I do it but it is definitely on the schedule 😉👍🏻
@@AirbrushAsylum aw AWSOME ! Are you anywhere near my neck of the U.S.A. ? Or the upcoming eclipse our town in Johnstown pa will be in 90% totality ! I just got my mobius I ordered a 0.2 mm and Amazon screwed up and sent me a 0.3 mm so they are rush delivering a new one and will be here by Tuesday so hope you enjoy your holiday and I just did a video and up loaded it on my channel I did the movie full metal jacket ! And I used your bullet hole and rivet technique for the painting so thank you for your priceless insight! Talk to you soon my friend !
Marc
Got get me one
Yep they are great 👍🏻
I’m beyond frustrated with this airbrush. I suspect it works just fine, but I must’ve gotten some paint into the trigger assembly, and I cannot for the life of me get enough torque to remove it.
Sorry to hear that you are frustrated , I totally understand as airbrushes can be very temperamental 🤦 take a look at this video which will help you remove the plunger assembly and hopefully fix your issue 🤞🏻👉🏻 ruclips.net/video/MyH0HTv0TU8/видео.htmlsi=02ecO1c0h4y9r1sO