Glad you enjoyed it, and thanks for noticing the no BS approach. I'm tired of watching channels where I have to forward 3 minutes to get past all the mech, patron etc. I'm just here to share some door knowledge. Thanks for watching.
I"m glad I could help clarify that for you. I struggled with the first few I installed until I realize how complicated the instructions made everything. Thanks for watching.
That's great to hear. I enjoy sharing these and go out of my way to make them as clear and easy as possible. Sometimes I watch videos of various explanations and can't understand or feel they skipped a step, so I don't post anything unless I believe it can be understood and replicated. I'm glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching.
8:45... On closers that have a separate Sweep and Latch adjustment, "pre-loading" screws up the Latch adjustment, and puts unnecessary wear/compression on the Spring. On the closers that I've worked on for the last few years, I find that pre-loading changes the Latch Arc from 10°-15° to just 1°-5°.
Please post a video of an installation where the closer is not loaded because I have no idea how that works. Let me know once you've done that. Thanks for watching.
@askillthatpays ... There are "letters" in the instructions and on the closer I work with, that show how the arm is attached to the closer, depending on the door type. Normally, you'd attach the arm perpendicular to the closer (sticking straight out). When connecting the two pieces of the arm, the only tension needed, is when you're making the frame attachment, perpendicular to the frame.
is it possible to install one of these on a house door in such a way that the door doesn’t open all the way, so that the door handle doesn’t hit the wall?
Yes, that can be done, but it's not wise to use the closer as a stopping mechanism because that puts torque on the attachment points. If a conventional door stop won't work, look into a floor mounted door stop. There are various types and can be a great solution. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video. My issue: now that I've installed the closer (about the same model. Home Depot commercial medium duty) it closes flawlessly. However opening it is another matter. It feels super heavy. Tons of tension even when I release all tension on the sweep and latch screws. I'd attach a picture if I could but I think my install is good. Any suggestions? Maybe a slight adjustment in the mounting?
Great question. It's probably not the position as that typically only affects the range of motion. It's most likely the tension on the arm which is NOT affected by the adjustment screws. Unscrew the arm on top of the closer. Put a wrench on the nut, then lift the arm off and move your wrench to release some of the tension on the arm, then drop the arm back down on the closer and try again. That should do it. thanks for watching.
That helped! It's better. Would moving the shoe (attaches arm to header) an inch left (away from hinge side) help and be acceptable? It's currently in the 3rd hole of the shoe going toward the handle and away from the hinge side. This is a left swing door.
This is the Universal brand door closer from Home Depot and it was the medium duty. I actually always stock the same brand in the heavy duty version because it'll work on any door, but the medium duty will work on 90% of doors. Thanks for watching.
Hi Pete, I got a metal door that if the wind is going against it closing it will not close all the way sometimes. Even after the air goes still, if it didn't manage to close in the first place, it just sort of hangs in there without finishing the little final push. any way to give the closer a bit more strength? I tried fiddling with the valves, but latching or sweeping speed don't seem to do the trick. The model is similar to the one on your video.
This is not uncommon. Start with a heavy duty closer and get something with a "backset" adjustment. Only the more advanced models have this. It compensates for wind. It will close when needed and won't blow open in a big gust. Good luck and thanks for watching.
That is the Home Depot Brand. It's called "Universal" which is their commercial grade hardware. They come in medium and heavy duty and I always carry a medium duty model as it works on 90% of doors. Thanks for watching
The arms don't bend, the linkage that connects the arm has a swivel and once in place you can move around. Also, sometimes if it doesn't clear, I just take the screws out and move it however necessary to get it to clear. Thanks for watching
I'm glad you think so. It is definitely a crowd favorite. Before I began installing these, they were a mystery, so I'm happy to provide some clarity for others. Thanks for watching.
Most of these will work with the following. 7 1/4 from the hinge for the door mechanism and 12 3/4 from the hinge to the jamb plate. If you don’t have the instructions this is the best move. The main variable is the location of the action bolt relative to the jamb plate. There’s about 2 inches between the bolt and the left of the jamb plate.
Agreed, and after doing so many, I just began using 7 and 12 as my guides. There must be a better way to do the instructions. Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching.
Great video although: I would've done the preloading slightly different way. (A piece of arm attached to the body first) And you've skipped the strength tuning with the arm's length, if needed. And the general rule for speed valves is the best, tighten for slower.
@@jme4815 bro I was doing it the second time in my life, I was looking for more info and this video helped greatly, and I just wrote my observations, im not an expert, I just analyzed how on earth this exactly works, and I've gotten better idea now, and I've adjusted these closers that I don't own, so maybe in the future I will get to install and calibrate my own. thank you very much And thanks guys, for encouraging me, maybe sometime I will cut a video showing how it looks with the arm split in two. I wish I had some kind of force displayer. Newtonometer!
Hmm. Never even thought of that. Sometimes the owner/manager has a preference, otherwise, I adjust them for what seems normal to me. Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching.
That's great to hear. These were a mystery to me until I started working with them regularly, so I'm happy to pass on the knowledge. Thanks for watching.
AGREED. When it comes to these, I rarely look at the instructions unless it's an obscure product. I basically go 7" in from the hinge and high enough on the door so it works, but not so high that the arm can't move. Thanks for watching.
Yes. The instructions can make it look very confusing. And those measurements should be close but don't have to be exact. Good luck and thanks for watching.
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Thanks for a great no-nonsense video. Right to business. No preamble. No silly background music. Thumbs up.
Glad you enjoyed it, and thanks for noticing the no BS approach. I'm tired of watching channels where I have to forward 3 minutes to get past all the mech, patron etc. I'm just here to share some door knowledge. Thanks for watching.
My instructions were confusing to say the least. Your instructions made installation much easier by hours less. THANK YOU!!
I"m glad I could help clarify that for you. I struggled with the first few I installed until I realize how complicated the instructions made everything. Thanks for watching.
Very well explained and no ridiculous pointless music or attempted failed jokes. Extremely well presented mate
I'm glad you noticed. I get tired of that nonsense as well. Thanks for watching
Thank you so much for this clear explanation, I just learned that I was installing the closer wrongly. Now I know how to install it correctly.
That's great to hear. I enjoy sharing these and go out of my way to make them as clear and easy as possible. Sometimes I watch videos of various explanations and can't understand or feel they skipped a step, so I don't post anything unless I believe it can be understood and replicated. I'm glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching.
8:45... On closers that have a separate Sweep and Latch adjustment, "pre-loading" screws up the Latch adjustment, and puts unnecessary wear/compression on the Spring. On the closers that I've worked on for the last few years, I find that pre-loading changes the Latch Arc from 10°-15° to just 1°-5°.
Please post a video of an installation where the closer is not loaded because I have no idea how that works. Let me know once you've done that. Thanks for watching.
@askillthatpays ... There are "letters" in the instructions and on the closer I work with, that show how the arm is attached to the closer, depending on the door type. Normally, you'd attach the arm perpendicular to the closer (sticking straight out). When connecting the two pieces of the arm, the only tension needed, is when you're making the frame attachment, perpendicular to the frame.
Tons of free value in all of these, thanks Pete!
Glad you're enjoying them. I'm nearing retirement and happy to share this knowledge. Thanks for watching
What closer brand did you have in video?
is it possible to install one of these on a house door in such a way that the door doesn’t open all the way, so that the door handle doesn’t hit the wall?
Yes, that can be done, but it's not wise to use the closer as a stopping mechanism because that puts torque on the attachment points. If a conventional door stop won't work, look into a floor mounted door stop. There are various types and can be a great solution. Thanks for watching.
Excellent work, you are a master in this area.
Master is a bit strong. Let's just say experienced, and happy to share the knowledge. Thanks for watching.
do you have a recommendation for a heavy duty wind rated door closer? thanks!
Look for anything with a "back set." Most heavy duty models have this feature. It adds tension so the door can't blow open. Thanks for watching.
@@askillthatpays YES! Thanks! Great video!
Excellent video. My issue: now that I've installed the closer (about the same model. Home Depot commercial medium duty) it closes flawlessly. However opening it is another matter. It feels super heavy. Tons of tension even when I release all tension on the sweep and latch screws. I'd attach a picture if I could but I think my install is good. Any suggestions? Maybe a slight adjustment in the mounting?
Great question. It's probably not the position as that typically only affects the range of motion. It's most likely the tension on the arm which is NOT affected by the adjustment screws. Unscrew the arm on top of the closer. Put a wrench on the nut, then lift the arm off and move your wrench to release some of the tension on the arm, then drop the arm back down on the closer and try again. That should do it. thanks for watching.
That helped! It's better. Would moving the shoe (attaches arm to header) an inch left (away from hinge side) help and be acceptable? It's currently in the 3rd hole of the shoe going toward the handle and away from the hinge side. This is a left swing door.
Excellent instruction!!! Thank you 😊
Very welcome. I m glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching
thank you so much for this very helpful information in very details.
I'm glad you enjoyed it. I've done so many of these and I'm happy to share the knowledge.
GREAT VIDEO! However, you put way too much pre-load on the closer! That is why you could not adjust the latch speed.
And yet it works perfectly. I look forward to seeing your door videos. Please let me know if you ever post one. Thanks for watching.
Is this Cal Royal and What series is this door closer?
This is the Universal brand door closer from Home Depot and it was the medium duty. I actually always stock the same brand in the heavy duty version because it'll work on any door, but the medium duty will work on 90% of doors. Thanks for watching.
Hi Pete, I got a metal door that if the wind is going against it closing it will not close all the way sometimes. Even after the air goes still, if it didn't manage to close in the first place, it just sort of hangs in there without finishing the little final push. any way to give the closer a bit more strength? I tried fiddling with the valves, but latching or sweeping speed don't seem to do the trick. The model is similar to the one on your video.
This is not uncommon. Start with a heavy duty closer and get something with a "backset" adjustment. Only the more advanced models have this. It compensates for wind. It will close when needed and won't blow open in a big gust. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Hi Pete, nice DIY video, what was the make/model used in this vid? thanks Pete.
That is the Home Depot Brand. It's called "Universal" which is their commercial grade hardware. They come in medium and heavy duty and I always carry a medium duty model as it works on 90% of doors. Thanks for watching
When did you bend the arm up , so that it did not foul the top of the door ?
The arms don't bend, the linkage that connects the arm has a swivel and once in place you can move around. Also, sometimes if it doesn't clear, I just take the screws out and move it however necessary to get it to clear. Thanks for watching
Great video
I'm glad you think so. It is definitely a crowd favorite. Before I began installing these, they were a mystery, so I'm happy to provide some clarity for others. Thanks for watching.
ULTIMATE VIDEO.
I'm glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
Most of these will work with the following. 7 1/4 from the hinge for the door mechanism and 12 3/4 from the hinge to the jamb plate.
If you don’t have the instructions this is the best move. The main variable is the location of the action bolt relative to the jamb plate. There’s about 2 inches between the bolt and the left of the jamb plate.
Agreed, and after doing so many, I just began using 7 and 12 as my guides. There must be a better way to do the instructions. Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching.
you are the man!!!
Nice of you to say. I'm glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching. I appreciate it.
Great Video. Thanks
I'm glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching. I appreciate it
awesome job, thanks
Glad you enjoyed. Thanks for watching
thank you
Good Job 👍
All door closers come with instructions....not in Indonesia. They know people will watch a RUclips video to get a perfect installation...thank you
Great video although: I would've done the preloading slightly different way. (A piece of arm attached to the body first)
And you've skipped the strength tuning with the arm's length, if needed.
And the general rule for speed valves is the best, tighten for slower.
Great to hear. I look forward to seeing your video demonstrating that. Please give a shout out once you've posted it. Thanks for watching.
if you already know, why are you watching this?
@@jme4815 bro I was doing it the second time in my life, I was looking for more info and this video helped greatly, and I just wrote my observations, im not an expert, I just analyzed how on earth this exactly works, and I've gotten better idea now, and I've adjusted these closers that I don't own, so maybe in the future I will get to install and calibrate my own. thank you very much
And thanks guys, for encouraging me, maybe sometime I will cut a video showing how it looks with the arm split in two.
I wish I had some kind of force displayer. Newtonometer!
I read or saw a video can’t recall that from the 90 degree the door should close in 7 seconds and it’s a pretty perfect timing not slow and not fast.
Hmm. Never even thought of that. Sometimes the owner/manager has a preference, otherwise, I adjust them for what seems normal to me. Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching.
Thank you, this showed me that I didnt have to buy a new one. I just had to attach the arm on the other side, on an old one, for it to open left :)
That's great to hear. These were a mystery to me until I started working with them regularly, so I'm happy to pass on the knowledge. Thanks for watching.
Excellent
Thanks for watching. I appreciate it.
you're bad ass!
My daughter thinks so, but most customers just think I'm efficient. Thanks for watching.
I have found over the years that instructions slow me down most of the time. I just look at the picture on the box. Figure it out.
AGREED. When it comes to these, I rarely look at the instructions unless it's an obscure product. I basically go 7" in from the hinge and high enough on the door so it works, but not so high that the arm can't move. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video, but the one I'm installing the hinge is on the right side. Do I just flip it over?
Yes. The instructions can make it look very confusing. And those measurements should be close but don't have to be exact. Good luck and thanks for watching.