I totally was getting annoyed that i kept getting your videos. Turns out i was just jealous sigh, you also have the most detailed videos. Thanks for all you do, you really helped me out alot with printer issues.
Jesus Christ dude you dropped the fat man of knowledge bombs on me. So many problems I’ve had with many different prints, all minor but shouldn’t have to fix post print, can all be addressed with this one video. Thank you so much 🙏🏻
Your very welcome. I’m glad I could break it down easy enough. This stuff confuses me still to this day. I find breaking things up one setting at a time works for me. So I figured it would work for everyone else too. 😃 Thanks for your comment.
@@ItsMeaDMaDehello love your videos there awesome and great help. I do have a question and need help. Whats the best setting to do when i want to make a print solid using cura. Do I maxamize my walls or infill? And if its walls do i only do walls or even top and bottom layers, also will doing any of that change the actual size of my print
Love your video series, they are awesome. I post replies in Reddit referencing your channel when posters are looking to up their game or solve printing problems. Thank you for all you do!
I found a great solution to having to come up with an explanation of why you have to buy more filament when you just bought some last week. When you do buy it buy 15kg at a time. So far I haven't run out. Granted, I have 30+kg on hand but I'm not even close to running out of any that I use on a regular basis.
Its really interesting to see how much filament is at the bottom of the cone And that extra wall its like bricks in a building Amazing Chris this is a great Video
I just learned why to be careful with that Outside To Inside wall setting. I had a 0.5mm fillet overhang on a box and the outermost layers were just hanging there like clotheslines. Next time, I'll design the model with tolerance and print inside first. These videos are an excellent source of well though opinions and good hard facts.
Ok, that was a year ago and I was pretty new to things and there's some caveats to this concept. You can definitely print outside/Inside - and should do so, if you want your outer walls looking perfect - but fillets are an absolute no-no. Make sure your model has nothing but chamfers on the bottom facing (build plate side) edges - fillets are too steep to print on bottom faces and the first few walls are printed in thin air. Do some research on Orca Slicer's (Maybe Prusa and Cura?) Inner/Outer/Inner option - works great. It prints the inner walls first, but stops early, then prints the outer wall, then comes back and fills in the last inner wall. The key is to use only chamfers on the bottom faces. Good luck.
Small correction on your explanation of "Optimise Wall Printing Order". It still prints the walls in the specified order, but if you have multiple separate areas of a model (eg. two legs) it will complete all the walls for one leg before doing the other, rather than doing the inner walls of both legs and then doing the outer walls.
My Ender 3 S1 consistently expands the walls too much (such a peg to thick, hole too narrow). I think your tips on Outside to in and/or negative horizontal expansion and/or hole expansion are going to work wonders for me. Thank you!
What I got: Precise Printing: outer walls first fast vs strong Alternate Extra Wall Setting : inner-weaving the infill with the wall, One ON skips another Horizontal Expansion Setting: adds or subtracts from the dimensions of the part horizontally Initial layer Horizontal Expansion: affects only the first layer, kinda of Brim Hole Horizontal Expansion: make up for print accuracy that way I can design without taking into consider Printer accuracy [ practically: it produces artifacts and gaps in model ] User Specified Z-Seam & smart hiding go hand in hand Jump Points are weak points - Outer Wall Wipe Distance is the distance that the 3D printer moves without extruding filament at the end of each layer before moving on to the next one. “wipes” the extra filament onto the wall, instead of leaving a the blob at the seam. > that retracts filament before a layer change, reducing the pressure in the extruder that causes the blob at the Z seam. "Changing Z seam alignment doesn’t improve tolerances, and coasting requires finely tuned retraction settings" - Print thin walls: In > places of the 3D model, walls are the only printed part. When the model is extremely sharp, This setting allows walls to be printed that are thinner than the nozzle size.
Hello, my name is Zaifullah and I received help from Afghanistan and I received help from your lessons, for which I thank you. Question: When I try to remove the model from the printer bed, the model breaks. Can you make me a tuning for the initial layer in Panther?
Great content!!! How do I have varied wall counts through the model? Say for instance two walls at the beginning then transition to single wall then at the top back to double wall?
I have a question, I’m new to the game and I have an Ender-3 S1 pro. When I purchased a file it automatically went to creality slicer. I had the Cura downloaded. Now that I have been watching all your excellent videos, my question is this: once my STL is changed to the gcode, is their anyway to fix it in the Cura?
Hi Barb! Welcome to the hobby! Thats a great question. So once you bring your file into Cura and hit slice and save the gcode you can no longer edit the file. You can open it in cura and it will give you a preview but thats it. If you need to make edits you have re-import your model and start over. Alternately you can save a cura project file before you slice. Then after you save your GCode you can always go back to your project file make edits then reslice the file again. I hope that helps. Best of luck printing!
So is this adding walls to the outside diameter or closing in the inside also? Im trying to stay with same inner opening diameter and outside wall doesn't matter but is too thin currently.
Is there, other than cost of material and time of print, a downside to 100% infill? I have printed a skull island and a haunted house at 100% but whenever I try infill patterns, they end up failing more often than just slow and 100% infill. Also, the more settings I work, the better some things get, but my bridging just gets worse, lol
I bet you believe that optimization actually works, but you never actually tested it, in fact, if you do not deactivate the "group external wall" on the experimental setup (which is set ON as standard) it will not optimize anything. Test and try, try and test.
![Yeat & Summrs - GO2WORK [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NEFEwfPcXRA/mqdefault.jpg)
I totally was getting annoyed that i kept getting your videos. Turns out i was just jealous sigh, you also have the most detailed videos. Thanks for all you do, you really helped me out alot with printer issues.
Jesus Christ dude you dropped the fat man of knowledge bombs on me. So many problems I’ve had with many different prints, all minor but shouldn’t have to fix post print, can all be addressed with this one video. Thank you so much 🙏🏻
Glad the video help you.
Hi Chris, i want to thank you for explaining in a understandable way. Thank you for your time and efford you put in these Cura video's.
Your very welcome. I’m glad I could break it down easy enough. This stuff confuses me still to this day. I find breaking things up one setting at a time works for me. So I figured it would work for everyone else too. 😃
Thanks for your comment.
@@ItsMeaDMaDehello love your videos there awesome and great help. I do have a question and need help. Whats the best setting to do when i want to make a print solid using cura. Do I maxamize my walls or infill? And if its walls do i only do walls or even top and bottom layers, also will doing any of that change the actual size of my print
Love your video series, they are awesome. I post replies in Reddit referencing your channel when posters are looking to up their game or solve printing problems. Thank you for all you do!
That so awesome thanks for sharing. I’m just trying to help as many people as possible.
I'm new to 3D-printing - great tutorials :)
I found a great solution to having to come up with an explanation of why you have to buy more filament when you just bought some last week. When you do buy it buy 15kg at a time. So far I haven't run out. Granted, I have 30+kg on hand but I'm not even close to running out of any that I use on a regular basis.
Great Info!!! Thanks Chris!!! Catch Up Time!!!👍🙏🤞😎
Its really interesting to see how much filament is at the bottom of the cone
And that extra wall its like bricks in a building Amazing Chris this is a great Video
Yeah it’s always good to see what it’s doing. Thanks for the comment
i really learning so much in these videos! appreciate you so much.
Dude i really apriaciate the passion and effort on your videos.
Thanks for the info
Your very welcome. Teaching and 3D printing are my two passions. Being able to combine them is the best of both worlds.
Thanks for the comment!
Great information in the video, as always. Thank you.
No problem hope it was helpful!
I just learned why to be careful with that Outside To Inside wall setting. I had a 0.5mm fillet overhang on a box and the outermost layers were just hanging there like clotheslines. Next time, I'll design the model with tolerance and print inside first. These videos are an excellent source of well though opinions and good hard facts.
Holy shi you just saved me another 7 prints of the same model to realise what the problem was
Ok, that was a year ago and I was pretty new to things and there's some caveats to this concept. You can definitely print outside/Inside - and should do so, if you want your outer walls looking perfect - but fillets are an absolute no-no. Make sure your model has nothing but chamfers on the bottom facing (build plate side) edges - fillets are too steep to print on bottom faces and the first few walls are printed in thin air. Do some research on Orca Slicer's (Maybe Prusa and Cura?) Inner/Outer/Inner option - works great. It prints the inner walls first, but stops early, then prints the outer wall, then comes back and fills in the last inner wall. The key is to use only chamfers on the bottom faces. Good luck.
Ur the best out there ❤
Small correction on your explanation of "Optimise Wall Printing Order". It still prints the walls in the specified order, but if you have multiple separate areas of a model (eg. two legs) it will complete all the walls for one leg before doing the other, rather than doing the inner walls of both legs and then doing the outer walls.
So, as far as Quality and Strength go, is it better to enable Wall Optimization or nah?
Great video, and very clearly explained! 👏👏😉😉
My Ender 3 S1 consistently expands the walls too much (such a peg to thick, hole too narrow). I think your tips on Outside to in and/or negative horizontal expansion and/or hole expansion are going to work wonders for me. Thank you!
What I got:
Precise Printing: outer walls first
fast vs strong
Alternate Extra Wall Setting : inner-weaving the infill with the wall, One ON skips another
Horizontal Expansion Setting: adds or subtracts from the dimensions of the part horizontally
Initial layer Horizontal Expansion: affects only the first layer, kinda of Brim
Hole Horizontal Expansion: make up for print accuracy that way I can design without taking into consider Printer accuracy [ practically: it produces artifacts and gaps in model ]
User Specified Z-Seam & smart hiding go hand in hand
Jump Points are weak points
- Outer Wall Wipe Distance is the distance that the 3D printer moves without extruding filament at the end of each layer before moving on to the next one. “wipes” the extra filament onto the wall, instead of leaving a the blob at the seam. > that retracts filament before a layer change, reducing the pressure in the extruder that causes the blob at the Z seam. "Changing Z seam alignment doesn’t improve tolerances, and coasting requires finely tuned retraction settings"
- Print thin walls: In > places of the 3D model, walls are the only printed part. When the model is extremely sharp, This setting allows walls to be printed that are thinner than the nozzle size.
Hello, my name is Zaifullah and I received help from Afghanistan and I received help from your lessons, for which I thank you.
Question: When I try to remove the model from the printer bed, the model breaks.
Can you make me a tuning for the initial layer in Panther?
How about inner wall and outer wall speeds? By default Cura has inner twice as fast as outer. I'm seeing some wonky sizing there
Nice video, and nice singing!! :)
Ha ha. Thanks. I free style from time to time. 😅
@@ItsMeaDMaDe Looks like a Welshman has complimented you on your singing! Carry that as a badge of pride 😊
@@larryfroot I shall indeed. 😁
Great content!!! How do I have varied wall counts through the model? Say for instance two walls at the beginning then transition to single wall then at the top back to double wall?
Great Advice !!
Thanks man ❤
You're welcome 😊
Can I change wall thickness but keep my print the same size.
I have a question, I’m new to the game and I have an Ender-3 S1 pro. When I purchased a file it automatically went to creality slicer. I had the Cura downloaded. Now that I have been watching all your excellent videos, my question is this: once my STL is changed to the gcode, is their anyway to fix it in the Cura?
Hi Barb! Welcome to the hobby! Thats a great question. So once you bring your file into Cura and hit slice and save the gcode you can no longer edit the file. You can open it in cura and it will give you a preview but thats it. If you need to make edits you have re-import your model and start over. Alternately you can save a cura project file before you slice. Then after you save your GCode you can always go back to your project file make edits then reslice the file again. I hope that helps. Best of luck printing!
Thank you for your answer. I am understanding a lot more thanks to your invaluable information! 😊
So is this adding walls to the outside diameter or closing in the inside also? Im trying to stay with same inner opening diameter and outside wall doesn't matter but is too thin currently.
Where can I download the .stl for those snazzy mustache protectors?
Haha. I just made them in tinkercad. If you’ve never used it I recommend it’s a great free 3D cad app. I did a series teaching how to use it.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe JK! Thanks for the chuckles!
When you use your random settings for z seam what do u do to not get dents
Man really did his mustache like that on purpose, and said "yeah. That's how I want to be seen by thousands of people"
😂😂😂😂😂😂
Is there, other than cost of material and time of print, a downside to 100% infill? I have printed a skull island and a haunted house at 100% but whenever I try infill patterns, they end up failing more often than just slow and 100% infill. Also, the more settings I work, the better some things get, but my bridging just gets worse, lol
how i can do if my wall thikness is disabled i can see it but i can't change it it's lock at 0.8...
It locks put when you change the wall line count, if you leave the wall count alone you can change it.
I bet you believe that optimization actually works, but you never actually tested it, in fact, if you do not deactivate the "group external wall" on the experimental setup (which is set ON as standard) it will not optimize anything. Test and try, try and test.
7:01
That's what she said
Oh this dude has CP on his cpu