Bro this is a year old video but it’s been a great video for my new venture in 3D printing. Thank you so much for these videos. They are a must watch for any new person at 3D printing.
Thanks for your explanations. It is awesome. I have started printing Temperature Tower. I got the link of your Vidoes from my teacher at the college. Having listened to your lecture, I gained a lot of ideas about the Temperature Tower.
For real, you have the best videos on 3d printing. The way you explain is just well detailed and at the same time to the point. Good editing too. Amazing videos bro
Struggling for two weeks after purchasing K1. After seeing this video i discovered that i was using wrong temperature . Now I'll see more videos to take the near perfect in everything. Ty man!
Thank you. Just started with ender 3v2 and cura 5.3 Having so much problems with prints. I promise to start printing temp towers. This should solve lots of my problems. Your videos are great for someone new to printing. Need to reduce the frustration...
Thank you so much for this video! I did not realize how much work there is to put into 3d printing. I did the other towers too and it vastly improved my prints. You are amazing!
With such a powerful moustache and round glasses combo I'm accepting all the advice given here! I'm pretty new to 3D printing ( I've had my printer a couple of years but don't use it very much) I'm also learning 3D cad as the printer was bought for making replacement obsolete plastic parts for repairs of mainly electronic items. I'm at a stage where "IF" it prints without something going wrong then it's a good print. However Some prints look sharp and smooth with virtually no layering where as others look like you could file your nails down on the sides of the print. I only came here because my ABS was a bit blobby (new roll and brand) Never heard of a temperature tower before. I did download cura when I got my printer (Flashforge Finder3) but it's not supported in cura so I use Flashforge's own slicer. It would be nice if it was possible to use Cura but again the Flashforge slicer works. But if anybody know how to use Cura with a Finder3 I'm all ears. I suppose it's not possible to generate the tower in Cura and Export it in a format that the Flashforge slicer can import?(didn't think so) Yes I know the Flashforge Finder 3 isn't a real printer, isn't upgradeable and all that And I could have got an Ender3 cheaper and upgraded it. I just wanted something that worked out of the box without it turning into another hobby. That Said the Finder3 does print ( or at least can print) very well when everything is setup. But that's the problem, as a novice Having the choice of temperatures, extrude rates, retract rates, print speed , travel speed, fuzzy shells, ironing, rafts, support styles, and a million an one other options you'll never actually understand what they do! Getting a perfect print isn't always expected getting one is a bonus. i'd like to have less disappointing prints
Hi, I'm one of those who just started with the standard setting of 200 degrees for PLA. But after I have done a test, I can see that 200 is fine, especially if there is an overhang. but if there aren't any places with an overhand on my prints. then I will probably try with 190, as it is somewhat nicer and within what the filament manufacturer recommends. The next thing I want to test is the settings with the things that have to fit the same to get better. I have spent a lot of time cutting, filing, sanding to get it to fit. PS it's a wonderful community inside discore. So for those of you reading this message, it can clearly be recommended. Regards René Jensen
Those are solid temps to go with and good reasonings. As for the sanding… René I have found it boils down to the artist modeling the figure. Some artists make amazing models but don’t print them so they don’t understand the clearances that are needed. So it might not be your printing it could be the model issue. Glad to have you in the group by the way!
So glad there is someone who takes the time to teach people new to 3d printing. I do have a question regarding brim. The brim on my print is so tight that I have to cut them off and then follow with a fine file and sandpaper. How do I adjust this and yet keep the brim attached?
Thank you so much messesed around 3 hrs didn't realize I bought same brand but petg not plus as soon as tower started my problems wr solved again you the man and I'll be printing lots of towers
Just found your videos a week and Thank God have made great strides and have done nothing but fight with these printers for years. Have watched an over abundant amount of videos reading articles crazy time I have wasted. Thank you for all your time and videos it has mad the process better and reignited my want to print. Have a question, is there a particular brand of filament that works best for you. Thank you again
Really great instructional video, thanks. I thought my printer was working nicely until I tried a temp. tower.. but I have major stringing on every level! Not sure where to go with that?
That's funny, while you struggle with that word to get it right, am enjoying & improving my English through your videos, besides learning 3D printing and tips on Ultimaker Cura!
Hi Chris! I am writing to you from Italy and I apologize for my English. I'm a beginner in 3D printing and a few days ago I bought my first printer: elegoo neptune 3 max. After watching your temperature tower video I decided to give it a try. I feel like I followed your video step by step. It would appear that from my printer's display the printing is following the temperature of my profile and is not changing as the tower would require. Can you help me understand. A thousand thanks!
Printed a temp tower after watching your video, but under every bridge there is what looks like curly filament. After looking at it better, it seems as if on every bridge where the nozzle would lay filament to create the under part of the bridge going from bottom right to top left it never connects. Other than temps 230, 225, 190, 185 and 180 which created stringing, every other temps looks identical. Any ideas why my temp tower came out this way?
How come I can't find any vidoes on what the change the settings to for the temp tower? Just like in the video I only have initial and finals temps settings but how do I tell it to change -5 degrees every so many layers?
HI, thank you. I tried and printed the thermal tower, but it seems that all the levels are printed at the same temperature. at least according to the display panel, but also the model came out the same. How do you make the temp change during the print?
have 3d printer ender 5 s1 pro and I have sonic pad. have problem level my bed and temperature its printer moves the designs I make please help me. what the temperature heat bed i put my 60 my front doesn't sticking
When I open marketplace, it looks nothing like you show and I cannot find the tool you are talking about. I have version 4.7 from Elegoo any idea on what I am doing wrong?
Thanks for all the tips ! Might need some help here (sorry for my english, it’s not my native language): Absolute beginner with 3D printing, my folks bought me an Anycubic Vyper a few days ago. I printed a few little things with it, there was no problem. But when I tried to print the temperature tower (6 times), the same error appear after a few minutes of printing : “Hotend heater abnormal, please power off then check it and wiring”. I checked the back, I am still at 230V (I live in Europe). I checked the printer head, no cable is disconnected or damaged. I really don’t know what to do, and I am afraid to damage my printer. Please help !
Self Personal Notes: - build plate is nice and hot and filament is nice and hot because we've increased that initial printing temperature that is allowing that filament to just kind of come out there and ooze and get a really good grip to that bed - Shrinkage compensation: dimensions after cooling down - BuildPlate temp initial layer -
Wow thanks. I have printed my ABS at 250/90C with good results. I added your Cura tower and the 250 & 245 looked perfect. Perhaps seeing 260 & 255 would have been instructive. How was the temp range selected? It used 80 bed temp (how was that selected?). It used a raft (how was that selected?). Does the add-on select these or accept my settings? Thanks, I am learning so much!
The main difference I noticed. With say PLA. Standard it’s basically the same across the board. Unless I go with transparent. Regular standard PLA & Regular standard PLA transparent are different. Besides that I 100% agree with everything else
agree to an extent, but the slicer could be putting seams on those back edges too - you'd have to check your slicer (I am actually printing one now, to check myself) - you also have to realize that the bridge should be possible, and not super droopy - if your layers aren't good and together, you probably need higher temps, or faster speeds. Part cooling also comes into play - are you part cooling? Some say to 'turn part cooling off' - to do TempTowers, some say "leave them on" - but they matter either way, non-cooled will be more saggy/droopy, and even have more stringing.
You know, I just got my 3D printer a few days ago, and was struggling to find good resources on where to start with settings and how to do some stuff. Your videos are amazing help with my current stringing issue I'm trying to figure out. No, I didn't print a temperature tower at first.....because I didn't know they existed until I looked up strining issues and found your video. So thanks for the info on that!
Well i have some Silk Black PLA and when i try to print a temp tower it fails at 210°. Should i just print it at 215? Seems like when it fails the extruder is skipping. Was thinking about doing a retraction test instead. I have tried to print 3 of these and same thing happened. I have a couple of pics.
Silk filament can be tricky. I’ve found speed plays a big part in quality with silk filament. It could be your flow that could be giving you issues as well. That is another video that I’ll be out in the next week. So many factors to consider 😅.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe Well i took apart my hotend and put some thermal paste on the heat break and that seemed to fix the issue. Regardless or not i will watch the video and whatever else you post. You, CHEP, Ricky, and Makers Muse have helped tremendously.
Didn't work for me. My N3+ running Cura 5.4 printed the entire tower at 200 degrees. Looked exactly the same from top to bottom. I don't know what I did wrong. But the tower looked awesome so I guess 200 is a good setting.
I Was But It Had Never Been Explained To Me Why & How, Or What It Tells You!!!🤔🙊🙉🙈 That Would Probably Explain The 18 Gallon Tote Of Failures Aka Dead Parts!!!! 😱😤🤑 I Appreciate The Videos Your Sending Out!!👍 Very Helpful & I Should Have Watched Them Sooner!!! 🤦♂😥😁4 Left To Watch & Will Do This Before Trying To Print Again!!!! 😎 Thanks Chris!!! 🔥👍
Have 4 machines all PLA ran 4 x 20mm open cubes which needc slight adjustment Tried printing a PLA Temp Tower on My Ender 3 at level 2 ie 225 It crashed with a bed Error - Just printing a Flow Tower and it seems OK Printing on a Brand new SOVOL 6 230 - 180 and its printed well- nedd to analize AnyCubic Kobra Neo 007 Really bad Stringing or is it Angel Hair but gets better the cooler it prints AnyCubic Kobra Neo 001 MORE FOLLOWS and will do a String Test
Dont use these Temp Towers Here - I tried them and because they run from 220 down to 185 they collapseed - Direct Drive AnyCubic at 210 Ender V3 at 205 So i down loaded one from Thingverse whch goes from 185 UP to 220 Both are running OK at present Did set Z Hop When Retracted ON and Retract Distance to 4 ON Chris you use Ender V3 which ic Cable have you tried these setting with Direct Drive
Who's noticed how filaments come with their operating temperatures already displayed on the spools? Temp towers are obsolete. I have never needed to use a temp tower to get my temp settings correct. Unless you can recycle your own prints into new filament, minimize waste. Temp towers get thrown away, and that goes into landfill because most recycling centers cannot recycle the kinds of plastic 3D printers use. Microplastics ARE bad, regardless of the fact that it's "only 5 grams of filament." That is a terrible argument you always use to justify putting more plastic into the trash. You're letting perfect be the enemy of good enough. Printing hotter may give some strings, but it makes your layers adhere stronger. Typically, your print will turn out great if you just read the spool and set your temp in the middle of the two values the manufacturer already provides you.
Hi ! I really learn a lot with all your tutorials. One question, I did the temp tower test. It failed from 250 to 220. The bridge are basically not existing... What would be the cause ? The filament is PETG it as been dried for 5 hours before the test. When you do the tests, what order should I do theme ? Temp Retraction Flow Etc. Thank you in advance.
Been Printing for 7-8 years and I STILL learned stuff in this video !!!
Bro this is a year old video but it’s been a great video for my new venture in 3D printing. Thank you so much for these videos. They are a must watch for any new person at 3D printing.
Thanks for your explanations. It is awesome. I have started printing Temperature Tower. I got the link of your Vidoes from my teacher at the college. Having listened to your lecture, I gained a lot of ideas about the Temperature Tower.
For real, you have the best videos on 3d printing. The way you explain is just well detailed and at the same time to the point. Good editing too. Amazing videos bro
Wow, thanks! glad you enjoyed it
Thank you. As a newbie to 3d printing (literally about a week) , you are a plethora of information, and easy to follow.
This is an amazing video and it has helped me tremendously to stop stringing and producing great prints! You need to do temp towers everyone!
I was having issues after a move just getting my printer to even print. These guides have helped me get back on track. Thank you!
Your very welcome!
Another great video, mate. I am amazed that this video has very few views. I have always used temp towers.
Thanks!! As for views it’s all up to the magical RUclips algorithm….
Struggling for two weeks after purchasing K1.
After seeing this video i discovered that i was using wrong temperature . Now I'll see more videos to take the near perfect in everything.
Ty man!
Thank you. Just started with ender 3v2 and cura 5.3
Having so much problems with prints. I promise to start printing temp towers. This should solve lots of my problems. Your videos are great for someone new to printing. Need to reduce the frustration...
Yeah temp towers! Glad to hear I hope my videos are reducing that frustration!
Thank you so much for this video! I did not realize how much work there is to put into 3d printing. I did the other towers too and it vastly improved my prints. You are amazing!
As a complete newbie to printing, your videos have been crucial! Thanks for taking the time to explain everything in such detail!
This is a great video for us simple individuals. I finally understood so much more with this video.
Informative AND hilarious! Thanks for this! *Horizontal scaling factor shrinkage compensation* 😵💫
Ha ha. Yeah it was a hard one for sure.
With such a powerful moustache and round glasses combo I'm accepting all the advice given here!
I'm pretty new to 3D printing ( I've had my printer a couple of years but don't use it very much)
I'm also learning 3D cad as the printer was bought for making replacement obsolete plastic parts for repairs of mainly electronic items.
I'm at a stage where "IF" it prints without something going wrong then it's a good print.
However Some prints look sharp and smooth with virtually no layering where as others look like you could file your nails down on the sides of the print.
I only came here because my ABS was a bit blobby (new roll and brand) Never heard of a temperature tower before.
I did download cura when I got my printer (Flashforge Finder3) but it's not supported in cura so I use Flashforge's own slicer.
It would be nice if it was possible to use Cura but again the Flashforge slicer works. But if anybody know how to use Cura with a Finder3 I'm all ears.
I suppose it's not possible to generate the tower in Cura and Export it in a format that the Flashforge slicer can import?(didn't think so)
Yes I know the Flashforge Finder 3 isn't a real printer, isn't upgradeable and all that And I could have got an Ender3 cheaper and upgraded it. I just wanted something that worked out of the box without it turning into another hobby.
That Said the Finder3 does print ( or at least can print) very well when everything is setup. But that's the problem, as a novice Having the choice of temperatures, extrude rates, retract rates, print speed , travel speed, fuzzy shells, ironing, rafts, support styles, and a million an one other options you'll never actually understand what they do! Getting a perfect print isn't always expected getting one is a bonus. i'd like to have less disappointing prints
Hi, I'm one of those who just started with the standard setting of 200 degrees for PLA. But after I have done a test, I can see that 200 is fine, especially if there is an overhang. but if there aren't any places with an overhand on my prints. then I will probably try with 190, as it is somewhat nicer and within what the filament manufacturer recommends. The next thing I want to test is the settings with the things that have to fit the same to get better. I have spent a lot of time cutting, filing, sanding to get it to fit. PS it's a wonderful community inside discore. So for those of you reading this message, it can clearly be recommended. Regards René Jensen
Those are solid temps to go with and good reasonings. As for the sanding… René I have found it boils down to the artist modeling the figure. Some artists make amazing models but don’t print them so they don’t understand the clearances that are needed. So it might not be your printing it could be the model issue.
Glad to have you in the group by the way!
Thanks! Such a great detalied explanation on temperature towers and why I need to print some!
Love your videos. They are so helpful and have increased my understanding of all the different settings in Cura.
Wonderful! Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for directing me to the temp tower in Cura!
Awesome video, great information and I learned a lot even though I have been printing for years.
You have help so much with my 3D printing so thank you :)
Your very welcome I’m glad I could help!
Scaling Factor Shrinkage Compensation Sounds like something to see the doctor about!
This video was so informational! Thanks for all the great tips!
So glad there is someone who takes the time to teach people new to 3d printing. I do have a question regarding brim. The brim on my print is so tight that I have to cut them off and then follow with a fine file and sandpaper. How do I adjust this and yet keep the brim attached?
Thank you so much messesed around 3 hrs didn't realize I bought same brand but petg not plus as soon as tower started my problems wr solved again you the man and I'll be printing lots of towers
ok here is the question do you have to print the temp tower first or do the retraction test first
Great info going to start tomorrow printing temp towers
You are a good teacher and please tell about other 3d printing slicers and also about ultimaker cura
All I’ve covered is ultimaker Cura I might branch out to other slicers in the future.
Awesome video, and I promise I'm going to print a temperature tower! 👏👏😁😁
Super video!
Just found your videos a week and Thank God have made great strides and have done nothing but fight with these printers for years. Have watched an over abundant amount of videos reading articles crazy time I have wasted. Thank you for all your time and videos it has mad the process better and reignited my want to print. Have a question, is there a particular brand of filament that works best for you. Thank you again
Great Videos!
Great video. That was a mouthful
Nub here. Will print a temp tower today!
Really great instructional video, thanks. I thought my printer was working nicely until I tried a temp. tower.. but I have major stringing on every level! Not sure where to go with that?
That's funny, while you struggle with that word to get it right, am enjoying & improving my English through your videos, besides learning 3D printing and tips on Ultimaker Cura!
That's great and so awesome I’m glad I could help you with printing and English!
None of my temps change while printing the tower. Thanks for the tip on expanding the settings menu I needed that.
Excellent videos! The only thing I'm not sure about now is what speed I should be trying to print this thing at? Or layer height?
Temperature towers baby!!!!
Hi Chris!
I am writing to you from Italy and I apologize for my English.
I'm a beginner in 3D printing and a few days ago I bought my first printer: elegoo neptune 3 max.
After watching your temperature tower video I decided to give it a try.
I feel like I followed your video step by step. It would appear that from my printer's display the printing is following the temperature of my profile and is not changing as the tower would require.
Can you help me understand.
A thousand thanks!
great video' i just have one question, my printer wont start anteal i have a intial temp
Printed a temp tower after watching your video, but under every bridge there is what looks like curly filament. After looking at it better, it seems as if on every bridge where the nozzle would lay filament to create the under part of the bridge going from bottom right to top left it never connects. Other than temps 230, 225, 190, 185 and 180 which created stringing, every other temps looks identical. Any ideas why my temp tower came out this way?
How come I can't find any vidoes on what the change the settings to for the temp tower? Just like in the video I only have initial and finals temps settings but how do I tell it to change -5 degrees every so many layers?
HI, thank you. I tried and printed the thermal tower, but it seems that all the levels are printed at the same temperature. at least according to the display panel, but also the model came out the same. How do you make the temp change during the print?
Thanks!
Your very welcome! Thanks so much for supporting me and the channel it means a lot!!
have 3d printer ender 5 s1 pro and I have sonic pad. have problem level my bed and temperature its printer moves the designs I make please help me. what the temperature heat bed i put my 60 my front doesn't sticking
brilliant, thankyou
When I open marketplace, it looks nothing like you show and I cannot find the tool you are talking about. I have version 4.7 from Elegoo any idea on what I am doing wrong?
Thanks for all the tips ! Might need some help here (sorry for my english, it’s not my native language):
Absolute beginner with 3D printing, my folks bought me an Anycubic Vyper a few days ago. I printed a few little things with it, there was no problem. But when I tried to print the temperature tower (6 times), the same error appear after a few minutes of printing : “Hotend heater abnormal, please power off then check it and wiring”.
I checked the back, I am still at 230V (I live in Europe). I checked the printer head, no cable is disconnected or damaged.
I really don’t know what to do, and I am afraid to damage my printer. Please help !
Self Personal Notes:
- build plate is nice and hot and filament is nice and hot because we've increased that initial printing temperature that is allowing that filament to just kind of come out there and ooze and get a really good grip to that bed
- Shrinkage compensation: dimensions after cooling down
- BuildPlate temp initial layer
-
Wow thanks. I have printed my ABS at 250/90C with good results. I added your Cura tower and the 250 & 245 looked perfect. Perhaps seeing 260 & 255 would have been instructive. How was the temp range selected? It used 80 bed temp (how was that selected?). It used a raft (how was that selected?). Does the add-on select these or accept my settings? Thanks, I am learning so much!
I have a question I followed the same steps but in the slicer it says 7g not six, why would that be?
You SHOULD print a new temperature tower for filament from the same company if they are different colors.
I am a newbie i have a Anycubic 2 max and i have 5.8.1 Cura how do i change the layer legnth in Cura
For some reason, when I try to slice this, it reverts to my normal slicer settings instead of the post-processing script for the tower
i start today printing towers
Win! Thanks and best of luck!!!
Confusing. What cura settings (printing temperatures) do I need for the temp tower?
I did print temperature tower
can this software be used even for creality printers?
UPDATE The tower ive download in Cura looks like its got 8 levels
So Job done
Its in 5 degree levels - going to 200 and on my Anycubic its terrible strining
Will see if i can print down to 80
The main difference I noticed. With say PLA. Standard it’s basically the same across the board. Unless I go with transparent. Regular standard PLA & Regular standard PLA transparent are different. Besides that I 100% agree with everything else
Gold
Hello i have an sidewinder x2 and i have stringing what travel setting should i put ? i print pla+ esun
agree to an extent, but the slicer could be putting seams on those back edges too - you'd have to check your slicer (I am actually printing one now, to check myself) - you also have to realize that the bridge should be possible, and not super droopy - if your layers aren't good and together, you probably need higher temps, or faster speeds. Part cooling also comes into play - are you part cooling? Some say to 'turn part cooling off' - to do TempTowers, some say "leave them on" - but they matter either way, non-cooled will be more saggy/droopy, and even have more stringing.
I created a Temperature Tower!
You know, I just got my 3D printer a few days ago, and was struggling to find good resources on where to start with settings and how to do some stuff. Your videos are amazing help with my current stringing issue I'm trying to figure out.
No, I didn't print a temperature tower at first.....because I didn't know they existed until I looked up strining issues and found your video. So thanks for the info on that!
Well i have some Silk Black PLA and when i try to print a temp tower it fails at 210°. Should i just print it at 215? Seems like when it fails the extruder is skipping. Was thinking about doing a retraction test instead. I have tried to print 3 of these and same thing happened. I have a couple of pics.
Silk filament can be tricky. I’ve found speed plays a big part in quality with silk filament. It could be your flow that could be giving you issues as well. That is another video that I’ll be out in the next week. So many factors to consider 😅.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe Well i took apart my hotend and put some thermal paste on the heat break and that seemed to fix the issue. Regardless or not i will watch the video and whatever else you post. You, CHEP, Ricky, and Makers Muse have helped tremendously.
What is the difference in ANGELHAIR and STRINGING
They are the same. Angel hair is just this small wisps of filament. Stringing is the thicker strings of filament.
HEY, how the printer understand that I'm printing with different temperature when I use standard quality temp in Cura ?
Didn't work for me. My N3+ running Cura 5.4 printed the entire tower at 200 degrees. Looked exactly the same from top to bottom. I don't know what I did wrong. But the tower looked awesome so I guess 200 is a good setting.
I Was But It Had Never Been Explained To Me Why & How, Or What It Tells You!!!🤔🙊🙉🙈 That Would Probably Explain The 18 Gallon Tote Of Failures Aka Dead Parts!!!! 😱😤🤑 I Appreciate The Videos Your Sending Out!!👍 Very Helpful & I Should Have Watched Them Sooner!!! 🤦♂😥😁4 Left To Watch & Will Do This Before Trying To Print Again!!!! 😎 Thanks Chris!!! 🔥👍
I’m really glad I can help you! Best of luck on future prints. Hopefully less fails in the tote 😅
@@ItsMeaDMaDe 😂👍
How do I change Celsius to Fahrenheit?
Was cooling turned off?
Have 4 machines all PLA ran 4 x 20mm open cubes which needc slight adjustment
Tried printing a PLA Temp Tower on My Ender 3 at level 2 ie 225 It crashed with a bed Error - Just printing a Flow Tower and it seems OK
Printing on a Brand new SOVOL 6 230 - 180 and its printed well- nedd to analize
AnyCubic Kobra Neo 007 Really bad Stringing or is it Angel Hair but gets better the cooler it prints
AnyCubic Kobra Neo 001
MORE FOLLOWS and will do a String Test
I tried this, and my printer did the outer ring of the base, and stopped extruding
Ok, what is that gross sketchy thing that flies past the left side of his head somewhere in between 1:44 and 1:46
Can you paint the LA Figures shredder for a video?
Can you do a TPU tower?
Dont use these Temp Towers Here - I tried them and because they run from 220 down to 185 they collapseed - Direct Drive AnyCubic at 210 Ender V3 at 205
So i down loaded one from Thingverse whch goes from 185 UP to 220
Both are running OK at present
Did set Z Hop When Retracted ON and Retract Distance to 4 ON
Chris you use Ender V3 which ic Cable have you tried these setting with Direct Drive
N4 pro - PLA+ - everything looks aweful. Id rather have your results.
Would you just look at it!
Who's noticed how filaments come with their operating temperatures already displayed on the spools? Temp towers are obsolete. I have never needed to use a temp tower to get my temp settings correct. Unless you can recycle your own prints into new filament, minimize waste. Temp towers get thrown away, and that goes into landfill because most recycling centers cannot recycle the kinds of plastic 3D printers use. Microplastics ARE bad, regardless of the fact that it's "only 5 grams of filament." That is a terrible argument you always use to justify putting more plastic into the trash. You're letting perfect be the enemy of good enough. Printing hotter may give some strings, but it makes your layers adhere stronger. Typically, your print will turn out great if you just read the spool and set your temp in the middle of the two values the manufacturer already provides you.
The temp tower don’t change the temperature on my printer
I have stringing in every temp, in 200-195 has the least, and is the best (CR-PLA)
Currently trying this. however, the temp display on my printer is showing 210 for the first section. did i miss something?
Funny, there is no autotowers generator in the version of Cura that I downloaded today. How else can I find this?
You didn't say turn off supports 🙂
Hi ! I really learn a lot with all your tutorials.
One question, I did the temp tower test. It failed from 250 to 220. The bridge are basically not existing...
What would be the cause ? The filament is PETG it as been dried for 5 hours before the test.
When you do the tests, what order should I do theme ?
Temp
Retraction
Flow
Etc.
Thank you in advance.
Dude a newb to filament printing and my print died totally. Realized my temps were way off for my PLA. You helped so much thank you.
My Elegoo Neptune 3 defaults the tep to 210 when I do the tower. Should the temperature change on the screen during the test?