Spin Indexer Build - Part 3
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- This is the third and final installment of the spin indexer build. In this video I build the indexing plate, the vernier scale and the spinning handle. We also take the spin indexer for a 'spin' on the mill.
See part 1 of this build here - • Spin Indexer Build - P...
See part 2 of this build here - • Spin Indexer Build - P...
See the video for numbering dials using a jig by Mr. Pete here - • SHOP TIPS #180 Making ...
You're from New Zealand!.....You are not supposed to have a sadistic nature! New Zealanders are all made from milk and honey!
That project looks very professional. the build looks like it was made to withstand some serious abuse.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks for watching. That was just something I made up as I had to demo the spin indexer. But, many years ago my Father told me some of the pranks they played on apprentices. I presume it is the apprentice culture and has been going on forever. Its may be world wide as well?
@@thehobbymachinistnz
Yeah, like getting the apprentice to go to the wholesaler for spare amps
Fantastic work and I really appreciate you showing your mistakes. Anybody that’s done any amount of machining can certainly relate to that, I certainly can. It’s frustrating but it’s also something we can learn from. Great job, I’m a new subscriber!
Thank you for your kind comments and the sub.
Well done......Great tutorial and thanks for sharing!!!
No problem, thanks for watching.
WOW... that's a lot of work. I love the Vernier scale explanation, very well done! Also, get a cheap DC TIG welder, you will love it!
Thanks Mark. I had an all in one TIG/Stick/Plasma cutter. Shortly after I brought it I cut in half a 4'x8' piece of 10mm (around 3/8") thick steel sheet in half and it worked brilliantly. I went to plasma cut something a few years later and it does not work anymore. The stick welder works, but the TIG and Plasma don't. I still have it, but I have now brought another plasma cutter for those jobs. The other thing with the TIG is the gas. The gas here in NZ is really expensive. I don't know why? May be there are not a lot of companies selling it so they push the price up?
Nicely done. I particularly liked the way you used a chemi pen to number your plate. I hate making a blue as well! I will be making a number jig like yours, that was very effective. I have made a Geo Thomas Tapping and Staking tool but it lacks a bit of rigidity for numbering.
Thanks for sharing.
No problem, and thanks for your comments.
Great to see you finishing up the project..great tutorial as usual..Thanks..
No problem, thanks for watching.
Very nice! I liked how youshowed all of the figuring parts.
Thanks.
A fellow kiwi and hobby machinist , Im making one of these. Thanks for the video and your finished product looks excellent.
Thanks, and no problem. Someone was importing the Chinese version (around $70 US) and selling them on TradeMe for around $500. That is far too much so I had no choice but to make one myself. Let me know if you have any questions or if you need and information for your build.
@@thehobbymachinistnz Thanks alot for the reply. I like your design with the index plate at the rear its a better idea than the brought ones. Plus where would be the fun in buying one.
Excellent job, 👍👍👍
Thank you very much.
Awesome execution and results. Loved this series just like the others. You’re very talented, persistent and inspiring. Cheers 👍👍😎👍👍
Thanks so much.
That is some really top drawer work!
Thank you.
Your work is great, very enjoyable and well explained. I absolutely love watching people make tools, especially if they are tools that will be used to make other tools!
Thank you very much. Happy New Year.
Well done!
Thank you.
Excellent build all around! I wish I could buy one as good!
I had some doubts early on when you abandoned using screws to assemble the first three machined pieces and welded them instead. I don't enjoy drilling & tapping any more than the next guy, and I'm always afraid of distorting pieces that have already been machined.
...That, and I have to admit to a personal bias against seeing weld beads on an otherwise cleanly made machine tool. 😊
Anyway, it's hard to argue with your success! I happen have one of those cheap 5C cast iron spindexers, and would very much prefer an ER40 setup like yours - not to mention the nearly unlimited flexibility of your design, with its ability to swap out indexing plates (& even vernier scales, though I can't think of many situations where you'd want to?). I like your choice of the larger sized holes too, which aren't really practical on the smaller sized models like mine.
Question: You showed a dividing head plate from your lathe. If you have a full set of dividing plates, would you have room to mount those on the spindexer, and make a vernier plate (maybe with milled slots in the vernier locations instead of drilling numerous holes to match the different radii of those in the dividing plates)? If so, you'd have exponentially more divisions available - possibly ~as many as you'd have with a full dividing head. ...Just a thought.
I'm heartily impressed with what you did with the stamped digits on the rim of the plate too! I never would have thought of using cold blue and then sanding off the surface. Those numbers really pop!! (Thank you too, for crediting Mr. Pete for the stamp placement jig. He's got a lot of excellent material, and I dispair of ever having time to watch even a fraction of them.)
1 pet peeve:
Green??
You've built a vastly superior tool!Make it a color that's as far as possible from the crappy imports!
Anyway, thank you again for this excellent build series. I'm looking forward to seeing more from you! 👍
Thank you for your comments.
I initially planned to drill and tap the base, pedestal and cylinder together, but welded them in the end. The welding was not as good as I normally do. In hindsight it would look better bolted and without the welding. I did mill a small channel on the base and cylinder to ensure that the alignment is maintained. I also milled the the bottom of the base after welding to ensure that it was flat.
I only have one indexing plate for the lathe and it wont fit onto this indexer without boring out the center. I could make a similar plate with a number of rings of holes. I don't think a slotted vernier plate would work though. The current vernier is set to move the indexing plate one tenth of 10 degrees. For a slotted vernier to work the holes in the different rings would need to be spaced linearly from the center outwards.
I always try to acknowledge others that have good ideas which I have used in my projects. We all learn from these people and I appreciate them sharing their knowledge.
Unfortunately I did not have many options for paint at home. It was a choice between that green and an equally bright blue...
Thanks for sharing and Merry Christmas to you and your family 👪
Thanks you, and Merry Christmas.
Bloody hell mate
I was almost ready to push the buy button, and then I stumbled on your version (sigh)
Now I guess that I have to make my own instead (fistbump of frustration)
Bloody nice work you did there
Greetings from Denmark on the other side of the world
Thank you for your comments. There is a bit of work involved, but it turned out to be a very nice spin indexer.
Nice build.
Thanks.
Feeling inspired by this series, don't be surprised if you see me make one somewhere down the track, there is something else I need to make first before I could attempt a Spin Indexer. 👍
Thanks. It is very handy. I have used it a few times on some projects.
Like it. Well done.
Thank you.
Gday, the indexer turned out great, excellent build, I idea of putting the plate at the back is good, I’ve really enjoyed the series, thanks for sharing, cheers
Thanks Matty.
Well this is definitely a project i need to do. Turned out great. Cheers
Thanks for your comments.
Thanks for the vernier explanation
It turned out really good. I like how you can change index disk and vernier scale if required. Top marks!
Thanks Gr eg.
Great video, but I didn't understand why it was important that the top of the vernier fall between 4 and 5. Why not put zero on the top and run the other numbers down the side?
Good question!
...And I fully expect that there's a good answer for it too. 😊
Thanks for watching. I thought that it was important when I was trying to work out how it worked. Looking at it again you could use the zero at the top and have the rest of the numbers down one side. The only issue I see with that is that the numbers could be at the back when you mount the spin indexer in the mill. That could make it harder to set the correct degree. I guess that is why the Amazon ones have the scale split evenly across the top.
Adding the additional zero on my one has the unintentional benefit of having a zero on the operator's side regardless of which way the spin indexer is mounted in the mill.
Nice build! Hope to see it get lots of usage in future vids 🙂
Thanks for watching.
Nice work and a great tool to have in the shop...Cheers Kevin
Thanks Kevin.
Outstanding & I give you a lot of credit for not taking Bondo to those welds..
As I say the good news is I can still weld, the bad news is I still weld like a carpenter
Thanks. The welds are not my best work. I think I'm at the limit of the welder for this thickness of steel. Maybe the steel is pulling too much heat out of the welds?
@@thehobbymachinistnz maybe a little preheat, maybe turn the machine up & slow the wire feed a bit? It’s not exactly an assembly that one can practice on.
@@DrewDiaz Yes, preheating would have probably helped. I use an ARC welder (on full power) for this thickness of material. Sometimes I tack it with the MIG (easier to control), but I weld it fully with the ARC as it has a higher amperage.
Fantastic end result, well done! Based on the costs in your part of the world to buy a 'cheap lol' import, I think I would have done exactly what you did here, and you have a much better quality end result. Enjoyed. Cheers, Jon
Thanks for your comments Jon.
I really liked this project and it did come out very nice. Maybe i will be making something similar for my milling machine. I like your channel so I just subbed.
Thanks for your comments. And, thanks for the sub as well.
Nice work!! Love the bolt 😂😂
Thanks! 👍
That’s a lovely piece of work. I think I’ll have a go at one and hope it comes out as well!
,
Thanks for watching.
Beautifully done 👍
Thank you.
Great video I've been looking forward to this one and you did not disappoint.
Thank you.
I don't know if you follow Brandon from "Inheritance Machine", but he has a "box of shame " for the mistakes. I must admit that he's a perfectionist and even so he gets a few.
You're obviously a watcher of Quinn Dunkie at "blondihacks" judging by the "fist bumps of frustration ", the shamfering "as is tradition " comments. I was waiting for a "yahtsi" whenever you parted something but it never came.
Another person you may have observed is Youchol of "Woods Creek Workshop". He has a Chineseum spindexer which he modified to work "backwards" because of the lack of clearance of the indexing plate to the mill spindle .
One thing I'm a little surprised that you don't use is Scotchbrite instead of sandpaper or even worse, emery paper to polish up your surfaces. Its not particularly abrasive and most of all it doesn't leave any abrasive residue on your machine's slide ways. You can use the kitchen variety which we get in a green or blue colour and is used for pot scrubbing and glassware respectively. Industrial suppliers have about four different grades, colours I know of are grey and purple but I'm sure there are others. I use the purple and it polishes anything I make to a mirror finish.
Overall a very well thought out alternative to spending big bucks for the commercial version and then still have to modify it for your ER 40 collets.
Thanks for taking us along for the ride.
🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🇺🇦🇳🇿🐏👍
Thanks for watching. Yes, I follow Brandon, Quinn and Youchol. In fact it is Youchol's video that led me to design the indexing plate away from the work area. Well, it is common sense as well, so I don't know why the chineseum spindexers persist with the plate being attached to the work end? I will look into scotchbrite. I guess I use emery paper as that is what I was taught from my father many yeas ago.
Nice job !!
Thank you.
Great project, well executed.
I don't want to sound like a Nanny but it makes me cringe every time I see you use the angle grinder without a guard.
I have been through apprentice school 🤓 and worked in engineering all my long life.
I can honestly say that the worst injuries I have inflicted on myself have been with angle grinders.
They were fitted with guards !
I know there are good reasons on occasions to work without but for your own safety and that of others please put it back on.
You know it makes sense and the number of times it gets in the way are very few.
Thanks for your concerns. Best not to copy what I do. I use the grinder that way at my own risk.
The machine is beautiful. The weld is ugly, should have been grinded before painting.❤
Thanks for your comments.
muito bom!
Thank you.
@@thehobbymachinistnz ruclips.net/video/IXyq_dV8swg/видео.html
Just so I understand this correctly, you've put 11 holes in the vernier scale in the same spacing as 10 degrees in the main scale. is that correct?
Hi Des, thanks for your question. The holes in the vernier are actually 11 degrees apart. That means that when the pin is moved from one hole to the next hole in the vernier, the indexing wheel moved one degree.
Part 4 ? Making of the tailstock.
Thanks for the suggestion. I will likely make a tailstock when I need one. I will add it to my list.
Would rather have the indexer you built than those cheap made not cheap priced Chinese ones!
Thanks for watching.
Awesome job, just wish you ground down those chewing gum welds.
If I made it again I would drill and tap the parts so that they can be bolted together. It would look much neater. Thanks for watching.
@@thehobbymachinistnz I personally find a nicely laid weld fillet to look really nice.
why bother going to all the trouble, time and hours spent, when you can buy one for next to nothing, you have done a great job but why not shop make something you cant buy or an item thats priced so high its out of reach of most home shops, love your builds but i want projects that are worth the time to build
Hi, thanks for your comments. The answer to your question is in Part 1.
@@thehobbymachinistnz maybe even modifying a bought one, to suit your needs, the china made stuff makes things a lot more affordable, your channel needs content projects people wanna make and follow, for the channel to move forward and grow viewers
@@volksdeutschewaffenss9670 That is the reason why I made it. Because buying a Chinese one is going to cost me $500. A second hand (known brand) spin indexer is around $1,000 here.
Even here in the US, those spindexers are fairly expensive. Personally, I love tool making videos and it's a great way to learn machining and add new tools to your collection. If you purchase every tool you need, you'll go broke fast. Most manufacturers make tools for industrial and professional uses, not for some guy having fun in his garage on a limited budget. Besides, where's the sense of accomplishment in buying something instead of building it yourself?
Seriously? The very first thing he said in part 1 was that the crappy imports you're suggesting he should have bought cost an absolute fortune where he lives.
(I still don't understand why that is though; NZ is a heck of a lot closer to where these are made in China than where I am in the US. Unless there's some huge import tariff, they ought to be cheaper there, not 5× higher!)
Price aside though, the one he built is an order of magnitude better (in so many ways!) than the cheaply made import - good enough that I'd be making one like it if I didn't already have one of the cheap imports!
Excellent build, sir, regardless of what prompted you to build it in the first place. 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟