Engine Noise Status Update - 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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- Опубликовано: 5 ноя 2024
- This is a follow up to my previous video about a noise my 5.7 hemi engine is making. I took it into a trustworthy shop to take a look at it, without taking the heads off they can’t definitively say it’s the lifters but they suspect it is. They did take the valve covers off and the rods, rocker arms and springs all look fine and the noise is coming from the underside of the heads which one can only assume is the lifters.
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Hi Steve, hows it going with the tick? have you checked out Reignited - Cycle and Automotive youtube channel? This guy is a hemi guru and has a TON of info about the tick and rebuilding the 5.7 completely. I am so close to pulling trigger on that Corsa exhaust man lol.
I love that channel. Sky is brilliant and his explanations are so easy to understand. If I end up rebuilding the top end of my motor, I’ll be following his tutorials on the rebuild.
That said, the tick is still there and still very annoying. But knowing how involved it is and it’s cost (I don’t exactly have the money at this exact point in time), I’m waiting a bit longer for the symptoms to worsen before I act on it. I’m not monetized on the content I post on RUclips (yet) so everything I share online, the parts and whatnot, is paid out of my own pocket I earn from my day job so I need to put money aside for this job. I got bills! Lol! That is unless it grenades, in which case I will figure it out when/if it happens lol. The shop I took it to said it will be fine to keep driving it since there’s no codes in the system and there’s no apparent issue with performance so I should be good for a bit. Just super annoying hearing it tick like clock.
Check out the Community tab here on my YT channel for my Blackstone results and an explanation of what they found in the oil. Very interesting. Basically they don’t see signs of my top end degrading.
So the plot thickens… it means I have some further investigating I need to do.
Steve, I have put a spiel in your previous post. A HellCat oil pump will give you a 12% oil volume increase. The new Melling 10452HV would give you a 20% increase, the way to go.
I would be cutting open your dirty oil filter to check for metal shavings. I gather you are getting the oil examined. If any metal, the engine sadly is doomed. All the best with this.
Thanks for these updates! Man, I thought I had problems when my 14 O' said "service air suspension system immediately" last month. Sorry you're going through this, I hope you find out it's something else. Not looking forward to this in the future. Thanks for taking us to Walmart, lol. Oil catch can is awesome. Good luck with the lab results.
Did you ever look into the air suspension message? It should be stored as an inactive code in the air suspension module. You will need a scanner that reads more than just the check engine codes. I see an air suspension message pop up from time to time, I just ignore them since nothing has come of them so far.
Thanks for your support! I hope it’s nothing as well, so far after this oil change the sound seems to be minimal once it’s up to operating temperature which is good. Just annoying while it warms up. Lab results are in the mail, should hear something back in about two weeks or sooner I imagine. Cross your fingers! My last oil change 5300ish miles ago they analyzed that oil and everything looks good, this should show if it ate the needle bearings in the lifter or something.
@@iambigsteveo Do not ignore that message! I'm sure you've read the stories about air suspension. I ignored mine too, message came on 2 months ago, then a month later the front end dropped to the tires. I would shut it off and turn it back on and the front end would go up again, so I thought no big deal. Then it stopped raising the front end, so it blew a fuse cuz the compressor is running full boost to keep up with leak - very bad... I put a new fuse in and thankfully it (compressor) worked again, then I Immediately pulled it out and put the blown one back in so it wouldn't be on constantly, and ordered those voss elbow fittings on top of the front struts and it's all good now, been on for 2 weeks and no more messages or front end drop. Thankfully I only drive 10 min commutes in winter or I would've burned my comp. Sorry for the long rant but if someone has this going on, fix it now. Fixed it for $64. I want to get a decent code reader around idk $200? Looked under my Jeep Monday, rear outboard pads are worn out - inboards are like brand new? Jeep too cheap to lube the guides and pins? Did you notice that when you did yours? Also 1 shock is leaking, already ordered and received my Z36 kit and Bilsteins. Good luck and let us know oil results asap! Thanks!
@@gts5930 very interesting situation. Yeah I have heard about people’s bags giving up the ghost on them and then it looks like a SoCal low rider. I have been lucky with mine but I’m sure at some point mine will die on me. I’m hoping for a best case scenario like yours where it’s just a fitting and not an entire air spring since they are pricey. If my compressor or a spring blows, I’ll rip out the air ride and install traditional struts and coils. Yeah I’d lose the adjustable height but it wouldn’t be worth the cost.
@@gts5930 My brake pads seemed to be wearing evenly when I took them off so the slide pins were moving freely. They didn't appear very lubed up but they were moving fine but I replaced the slide pin boots on the rear when I needed to get those done for inspection. I didn't replace the boots on the front though, it was cold out and I didn't have as much patience that day lol. I did make sure to lube the pins though before putting them back in.
As far as a code scanner goes, just pick up one of these www.amazon.com/Veepeak-OBDCheck-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Supports/dp/B073XKQQQW and use your phone or computer to read the codes. FOr your phone, you will need the OBD JScan spp which is free I think, but you will need to purchase a license for the VIN. It's like a one time $20 fee I think for a license. For your Windows computer, you will need www.alfaobd.com/ which has a one time license cost as well. AlfaOBD works on Android also. Both of these apps are great and will show you the same thing, but I found the AlfaOBD and Windows to be very quick but it's clunky since you need a laptop in the car with you, so the JScan app is convenient because it works on the phone but it's slower. With these two apps, you can configure vehicle settings like fog light drop off, change drl settings, led or incandescent directionals, and more. They're really neat, just know they are licensed per VIN, so taking it to a new vehicle will need a new license. The last option is the BlueDriver scanner www.amazon.com/BlueDriver-Bluetooth-Professional-iPhone-Android/dp/B00652G4TS/. It's more expensive, but they're no license fee and you're not tied to a vin so you can read any vehicle DTC's. It does go on sale from time to time to use the Honey browser extension to notify you when the price drops.
I changed my rear struts like 5 years ago since one was leaking, fairly easy job. One bolt at the bottom, two at the top. Just need to transfer some bracketing from the old to the new and reinstall. Make sure you relieve some pressure on the strut from the air spring by using a jack to lift up the suspension you're working on or the spring will launch the control arm down and throw the strut around. Kind of scary. Ask me how I know? LOL 😂😂
@@iambigsteveo Yeah I was on the fence to rip out air ride and lower it then I found those Airlinks 2 years ago (made a few adjustments to get it right) and don't need the adjustable ride height either - never leave pavement. But I have to admit sometimes I put it in off road 1 (which is like my old NRH but level) and like the ride too, If I keep it under 40...
sup brother. Thinking of buying a 5.7 GC but would like to get your opinion on mpgs...? What's your average? Not buying to be a Prius but i test drove 1 and couldn't get past 14mpg
I traded mine in about 18 months ago, but my mileage was steady around 14. I didn't drive mine gently though. Always in sport mode and I used the flappy paddles because I like the way it felt holding the gears. That said, it's a thirsty V8. Some people claim they get higher MPGs, and they might, but I can't see how without driving in eco all of the time and being very boring. The V8 loves to be rev'd and loves to be driven.
Update as of 10/16/23? My 2018 ram 1500 5.7 is starting to make this same noise on a cold start but eventually goes away when warm. It’s not manifolds I just had those fixed 4 months ago.
I have a 2012 Ram 1500 5.7 that sounds exactly the same. Been driving it for 40k miles and the noise is exactly the same. Sound is more bottom end on my stethoscope. I think its a bad rod bearing. I will drop my oil pan in a few weeks to verify. But i believe a bad lifter would have ground through the cam after 40k. But it is still possible that it could be a lifter. Just not likely imo.
Hey seavisions, did you end up investigating your noise? I ended up trading my Jeep in for a Raptor so now I have a new set of potential issues to deal with haha. Curious how you made out with your hemi!
Rod bearings are good. I dropped the oil pan 3 weeks ago. I think it is a bad lifter now. Seems to be possible its the hydraulic part of the lifter that the push rod rests on. Could even be a mushed pushrod end. Not the roller bearings and roller head. Otherwise i feel like it would have ground through the cam long ago. Truck still runs perfectly other than the noise. 165k on the ticker. 45k miles and the noise is the same. I run Pennzoil ultra platinum. I tried amzoil. But i was not happy with its longevity. Now i add seafoam oil additive and it actually quiets the noise by about 20% or so. So i will just keep truckin lol. I will just rebuild the motor when time comes. Good excuse for a bigger cam and hellcat lifters lol.
@@iambigsteveo Project Farm on youtube has a great oil test video on a bunch of different oils. Worth a watch if you havent already.
I love Project Farm! His tests are very thorough and the man has all of the patience in the world, to let tests lapse a year or longer to really show results.
I was also considering building the top end with a more aggressive cam and hellcat lifters if I kept the Jeep, but it wasn’t the right time for that kind of expense. Oh and the hellcat oil pump. There’s a channel called “Reignited - Cycle and Automotive” and he’s a Mopar tech by day, RUclipsr by night. He’s brilliant. He is a great resource for anything and everything hemi and Mopar. Check him out!
@@iambigsteveo Thanks good sir. I definitely will do a hellcat oil pump as well. I watched all the episodes on reignited lol. Oil pressure increase was beyond significant. His channel is a great resource. After replacing the turbo on my 2011 6.7 cummins a few months back. I appreciate my hemi more and more everyday lol.
Doesn't sound that bad from here! Hope it clears up. Mine is nice and quiet for now at 102000!
You’re lucky man! After I performed this oil change, it seems to quiet down once it’s warmed up to normal operating temp which is nice, only makes noise at first start up while it’s cold. Hopefully it just stays like this!
@@iambigsteveo sounds like symptoms of broken motor mounts! If the sound isn't there after it warms up it probably the motor mounts! Because the exhaust manifold expands when it gets hot & seats better & sound goes away! If the noise persists when its hot its the crank & lifters I understand!
@@Silvertoburn After you sent this, it made me think and after it was warm from driving a while at normal operating temperature it was still making the noise. I started to get hopeful but as it turns out, still ticking like a clock.
@@iambigsteveo I'm having the same issue with my 3.7L also 2014. Took it to Jeep and the guy said, didn't event pop the hood, "It's the solenoids"...I'm not really buying it. I'm not a trained mechanic, but it's a noise that wasn't there before. Any updates on yours?
I had the same issue and I changed the old and added lucus and the noise went away after driving about a day
HMMMM.... interesting. Tell me more. It's been months and I still hear this like a clock ticking on the wall. I would love to not hear this ticking anymore.
Anything more you could provide on that Lawrence? thanks.
@@iambigsteveo i would NEVER put that crap in anything I own. If you cant afford to get premium oil not boutique oil then at minimum get some MOA from BG products. Stopped my hemi tick
$5600?? Wow. I got my engine rebuilt from the dealer due to bad lifters & cam and they charged me $4100. Including a new water pump since it was dripping a little
It’s steep for sure. I’ll entertain all options, usually the dealer is pretty pricey but knowing you got the work done for 1500 less, that sounds appealing for sure. I may just run the motor till it goes if it does go at all and deal with it then. Or wait till it starts throwing codes. I just don’t like the sound it makes, kind of makes me tilt my head and make a face like I’m sucking on a sour candy lol
The sound is there since how much miles sir?
I have 113k ish miles, give or take a few. This sound has been around for the past couple thousand miles, less than 5000 that’s for sure.
Ok thanks..just bough a ram 2009 with that sound and hope to get him 5k more miles before pulling the heads off ...did you checked your vvt selenoid for metal shreds in the screens of it as some people did ?
I have the same noise
Have you investigated the noise or are you just riding it out?
@@iambigsteveo sold it. I’m a proud tundra owner now. Of course the V8
@llwizzoll I see. Yeah I did the same, ford raptor owner now, v6 twin turbo though, no v8’s offered in gen 2 or 3 except for the raptor r which is insanely expensive.
Here's a great video on the ticking, this one for the Pentastar 3.7L. Might be similar to your Hemi? ruclips.net/video/248MoyxigKQ/видео.html
Mines throwing po304 code
This could be a number of different things, but first I would check to see if the coil pack is bad. Swap it with another one and see if you get a misfire of a different cylinder. if not, then it's not the coil pack. Then check plugs. If not plugs, could be anything from valve seats, valves themselves, camshaft is worn, bad lifter, blown ringland, the list goes on.