Hey man, just wanted to say kudos for keeping the testing going. I know it’s a ton of work to do. Incredible gift to the community to share these results and files with us all. Keep up the great work!
I think you should still weight the dust captured by the separator, to get an idea of what was left behind in the piping. I have a feeling that the percentage staying in the piping may decrease with time as all the nooks and crannies get filled in, so more dust will reach the separator after a while. So the interesting percentage is what is left in the filter vs what enters the separator (what you get in your bins plus what you get in the filter). Yet, it is a very promising result.
That’s fair. For context though, the rest of the system has been in use with my previous dust collector, so all the nooks/crannies should already be filled in.
@@pilsonguitars Considering how little is passing through to the filter I reckon you should probably also weigh your bucket of sawdust before and after testing. If only 12 grams make it through to the filter I reckon it is possible a similar amount might be left in the bucket
Its really nice to see someone pursuing an idea, concept and whole heartedly share it with other people. In addition im super into centrifugal dust collection as well, so subcribed
On idea to help with static buildup, (although would require full reprint and increased material cost and does not address the tube itself) is printing the components out of a conductive filament and grounding that.
You definitely got my subscription from these three videos! Sitting on the edge of my seat, waiting to see what adjustments you make before I start building my own
This is awesome. Just got my 3D printer dialed in, workshop is up and running, getting ready to add a HF dust collector to replace my shopvac. This is a definite on my list to print and install! Thank you for the research and the video.
Hey, glad you enjoyed the video. Please check out the Capturing Dust channel when you get a chance. (www.youtube.com/@CapturingDust) Ruud has taken my design and performed a massive amount of testing and redesign. He is also providing those files back to the community and is doing a fantastic job!
Would you consider selling the printed parts to those of us who do not have a 3D printer or access to one? I'm an OLD GUY and my computer literacy only reaches far enough to watch videos and send/receive email. GREAT JOB on the build. You REALLY nailed it. Thank you.
Unfortunately 3d printing is fantastic for prototyping and abysmal for production of any kind. He probably has 150 hours of machine time and 5-6 hours of labour into a set of parts - you can imagine how expensive those would be.
@@rodfrey Thank You but I think you missed my point. Knowing the high expense of getting his project to this point, I thought I might be able to help offset some of that expense by buying from him. If some of us do NOT buy from him, then he bears ALL the expense. I realize, that is his choice but he should also be aware of people wishing to help him with expenses in trade for product.
Amazing results. Thanks for sharing the files! An interesting test might also be whether this also works as good if the air is sucked through the separator. With something like a CamVac or if placed infront of a regular dust extractors.
Got to admire your tenacity on this ! = ) Heck of a result !!! Couple of things to mention... Maybe a paint stirrer on a drill to get the dust airborne might have been a little less mind numbing. A slower but still constant rate of feed and then only a little left to hand feed. The second is an easy "shaker" system for anyone interested. Find an old SDS hammer drill, make a flat ended bit, press it up against your extraction cart somewhere suitable ( maybe screw a steel plate on somewhere ) and let rip. Quick, cheap, easy and effective = )
I actually think upping the air volume with the 4" hose helped you. The separation relies on speed. The more you choke off supply prior to the vortex, the slower it will go. You will likely see poorer performance if you necked down to a smaller tool without allowing additional make up air.
Awesome update, well done. Always great when you find out performance is much better than you thought after changing the conditions to be a bit more representative. Looking forward to the next update. Bravo sir
Good final results, the only drawback is the fine particles you are missing or that is escaping is the most dangerous to ones health, use a dust mask as well to be 99.999999% safe.
Thanks for sharing this. Appreciate the curiosity that drove you to make and refine this, all the work that went into getting it done, and the video editing. Subscribed
Great update, love the results. In the end it's all about your health and air quality in the shop. I do mostly laser marking on anodized aluminum and that results in very fine dust (the anodized coating is being ablated from the aluminum). Even with dust extraction I do have some dust on the table so I installed on of those air quality measuring devices to measure a.o. those fine (PM2.5) particles. With this kind of devices now even being sold for home use in the kitchen (I think this is a bit of overkill), there are cheaper versions becoming available for hobby shop use.
Well done!! I almost purchased one of those devices from Woodcraft, they had it on sale for $25. After seeing how they clogged up when running a jointer and a planer I decided to go with a cyclone on top of a 55 gallon drum. My CamVac catches the fine dust so I'm pretty satisfied with that set up. Hope yours doesn't clog up when you start milling wood.
Have you tried having the fan pull air through the system and push air to the filter? This way you won't have material in the impeller reducing effectiveness on the airflow? Also stops damage to the impeller.
With my setup, I don’t really worry much about material damaging the impeller because I don’t have much for large chunks that go through. I may still try it anyway.
These are great videos, and I'll be honest, really brighten my day when I see a new one pop up in my feed. Great job. Hope the step file I linked below will make the next video come along quicker!
well done on your results after a lot of hard work. I suppose with a P1S arriving soon to replace my ageing Ender 3 I'll finally get around to doing this in my workshop now that I can see a clear path to success. I truly wouldn;t bother putting a copper wire inside the tube, however. a) it;ll get crap caught on it all the time and b) I guess the reason people want you to do it is that they are scared of a fire caused by a spark and the dust suspended in the air. While yes in theory that is possible, the amount of dust needed to be suspended in the air to start a fire or explosion from a static spark is so incredible that you're never going to get close to it.
Looking forward to hearing your results! I hear a lot of back and forth on dust/static hazards. There are very, very few examples that I can find, outside of large industrial shops, where it’s ever been an issue. I was thinking about some thin, adhesive-backed copper tape that I’ve seen. Seems unobtrusive enough and easy just to have “something”.
Great video and follow ups , Someone has made one similar out PVC pipe but there was lot more crude, But I do like the idea that outlet and end cap are one piece kind like turbo housing
I built myself a really big Centrifual trap for my dusty, did it all from sheet steel, and had it dropping into a big bin. Never worked very well, would clog up and hard to get in and unclog it, so I ended up just keeping it all in place and using the usual bag at the end. I think I'll have to give this a go, it'd fit much easier, and I can 3d print it. Do you think a third seperator would do better? And new video idea to keep the steam going, methods to quiet down the dusty. It's the loudest thing in my little shop by far. Building it into a box? Or whatever you can think of.
I think stepping up to a larger tube is the best opportunity for improvement. Appreciate the ideas for other areas to explore. I agree, it’s one of the noisiest components in my shop as well.
To sound isolate, you also need to silence the ducting. By reducing the vibrations in them. Sound tends to be all about vibrations firstly. Secondly is the sound. So reduce vibrations to floor etc. Then afterwards, you try to 'isolate' the sound creators. Try buy a heavy duty rubber matt to stand the dusty on to begin with. So it doesn't make your floor resonate like a speaker.
I am still hoping you move the impeller (original dust collection blower) to the exhaust side of the cyclones. Since you have to rotate the airflow down into the Wynn anyway, you might as well capitalize on the space used to mount the blower there.
Thank you for your dedication, spending 38 minutes of your life feeding dust for the sake of science! I would love to see a comparison against your existing cyclone if you can. Given the impact of the feed rate and the fact that you're going to rebuild it, is it worth considering an 8" tube now? Large clear tubes are expensive, but now that the design is proven and you have a good idea about how to best measure the performance - Maybe an opaque plastic tube is now viable? You could even use a section of 8" steel duct which also resolves the grounding issue. You can still add windows (Cut from your 6" tube and flattened out a little) where required.
Man, that was tough! I felt like that was more true to my equipment though. Others probably have a more aggressive dust flow, but likely larger particle too. I think 8” is the way to go. Not sure I’m going to take it to that level, but I think you’re right about not needing to go clear now. (which would make it quite a bit cheaper) Really like your idea of cutting some pieces from the clear 6” too and flattening them out a little as windows. Thanks for watching and for the feedback!
Nice Job, I will be interested to see what happens when you change the final collection bin inlet. I wonder how it would handle a planers exhaust \dust.
Yah, a planer would be interesting. I hear they generate significant amounts of course material. I didn’t have to accommodate that so I’ll be interested to hear from anyone that gives this build a try and can test.
I build Tim’s design and modified the outlets and put it in front of my CamVac to run my planer. It works like a charm! m.ruclips.net/video/ENybYVAr11Q/видео.html
I think I'm going to build one of these. I built my current setup on a mobile cart so I can move it from tool to tool, but I placed the motor too high and when I empty the collector of dust, it throws off the balance just enough that it can begin to tip over when moved from the wrong side. I've learned to _push_ it and NEVER _pull_ it.
I'm glad you're considering building your own. Before you build, please take a look at the @capturingdust channel. Ruud has taken my design and modified it to the next level, greatly increasing the volume of material. It's some great work on expanding the idea.
Fantastic, I would say without doing anything you have put this to bed for me... Now I am wondering if I should wait for your upgrades or just glue up the pieces I have already made. Either way I am way ahead with a nice dust collections system. Sorry to pose another experiment for you but since your way more willing to chase a rabbit down the hole then I have the patience for I am hoping to pose another problem. In you second video you placed the cyclones in series and it had the effect of increasing the PSI. Now from my understanding its not really good to use a 2 inch hose with a dust collection system because the air flow drops so low that a shop vac would be better. Based on the second video could you create something to go inline with the dust collection that would bring up the air flow enough so it didn't lose out to a shop vac?
All the updates I’ve made are in the current files on GitHub. Any changes I make going forward (or other’s make) will show there. (comments show each update on GitHub) As for the reduction in sizing, the lowest diameter in the system is 4”. The only reduction is from 5” out of the blower to the “Y” which reduces to 4”.
Great video, thank you for sharing, I love the effort to learn and improve! This is my first ever comment on RUclips to hope it’s not wasted! Do you think it’s possible or worthwhile to scale it down? Something which would work with a vacuum for hand tools. Would take up less room than a bucket and cyclone. Thanks
First of all, thank you for watching. I'm honored to be your first interaction on RUclips! 🙂 As for your question, I think it's feasible since the airflow would also slow (likely) with the vacuum setup. There are existing units that others have referenced which are built specifically for portable vacuum based setups. I haven't tested any of those, but my design was simply a scaled down version of the Harvey design. (8" down to 6") My recommendation would be to grab whatever tube size you are considering and run some test prints. I would starting printing the inlet and then just abort it after about 10mm in height. That will leave you with a ring that you can start test fitting for tolerance with your size of pipe. (adjust your scaling factor and repeat)
Will you be making any more videos on the dust collector? I’ve seen there’s a new guy working on this design from the Netherlands but it would be easy to see more research on it from yourself. Also what HP is your blower?
My main focus is guitar building. The dust collector was a need and my project was successful for my needs. If you check out the 4th video in the series, I introduce you to Rudd, my new dusty friend in the Netherlands. 😁 He has already done a massive amount of work, taking inspiration from my effort, and now greatly improving on the design. He is also making those plans available and continuing to invest in the project.
I'm totally planning on building this! In my space I'm planning on placing the blower between the filter and tubes in the system. Can anything think of a reason not to do it this way?
Ive been reading a lot about dist collection recently, and you mention simulating the amounts that come from your tools. One thing a lot of these tests miss is that the dust is not coming off the tools at a dead stop, it is flung at the cutter speed, which makes ultrafine dust much more difficult to trap. Id be interested to see a test with the actual tools, but instead of measuring trapped dust, measure air quality near the tool before, during and after the tests. The whole point of dust collection is to keep dust out of the air, right?
Yes, agreed. Several have suggested some tools for measuring the air quality. I’d like to do that, though I hate to invest any more money at this point. If I get to that point, I’ll see about posting some results. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great work! Now that you've had it for a while, would you recommend this over something like a Super Dust Deputy based system? Have you had any problem with the system clogging?
The Super Dust Deputy is a great system from everything I’ve seen and read. If I hadn’t built my own system, that was my next purchase. Mine seems to be working well. I haven’t had any issues with clogging but I’m only collecting from my machines which don’t produce a lot of large particles. So far, I’m pleased with the results. There is a gentleman from Europe that has taken my design, made some great improvements, and will be releasing a video and file updates soon. I think it’s going to be a solid step up from my design. Thanks for watching!
Many have asked the same. It’s because my original Harbor Freight setup was that way, and the commercial equivalent to this system is also setup that way. It works fine for me because I don’t usually capture large pieces. It could work just as well, or better, the other way.
My extractor has a bag under the canister, and the canister is exposed so I can walk around it with a leaf blower every week or so. Since heavier particles are more likely to fall into that bag anyway, and only really fine ones are going to get stuck in the filter, I’m struggling to see a benefit. My impression is that a separator like this would simply mean I won’t have to empty the bag under the canister as often, but I’ll have to empty the separator’s bags/bins instead.
Similar. I need to have a catch bin under the filter as well. (future upgrade) I don’t really think it prevents the filter from clogging more, but it allows you a means of cleaning it out so that’s not being stirred up. (so maybe that does help keep it clear) Are you running a leaf blower to clean your filter in your shop? Doesn’t that put all that back into the air and make a mess?
@@pilsonguitars, I got the idea from Stumpy Nubs' advice not to use the built-in brush de-cloggers most canisters have - he suggested directing a leaf blower at the filter - from the outside - instead. I walk around the filter, pointing at it, blowing up and down its height, so that every part of the exterior surface area gets a blast of air. While it's switched off, of course. That should dislodge fine particles that are clogging the (pores?), kicking them back inside the canister, presumably to fall down into the collector. If I've neglected it for awhile, it makes a noticeable difference to the airflow.
Not much. I think I ended up using 2.5 of the 1kg spools. I caught an Amazon sale on one of the spools @ $15 and they are normally around $25. So all in, around $52.
Nice job 👍 When I surface material I get a lot of spiral wood chips. How wood 😂 it do with that? Is spiral debris even good or is it a sign of something bad?
Are you referring to a planer producing spirals chips? That’s not my expertise, so I would lean into others here that may have more experience. Appreciate you watching!
@@jeffcampsall5435, I'd be interested to see how that does. That is something we would do on occasion so I'll get to see some of that. I think, as long as it's not coming in too fast, it should be able to handle it.
I highly recommend the Prusa line but they are on the upper end for costs. Some friends of mine are getting really great results from the $100 series of 3D printers with a little bit of tweaking. They really are useful!
Excellent series! Im already printing the pieces, and dont even know where to put anything lol. But, lets talk feedrate. As we are digging into the fine details here, that feedrate seemed very extra slow...what i see when working are more bursts of material, for example, cutting 48" if plywood in one go normally engulfs the whole jet cyclone with dust, using the floor sweek also does the same, running the miter saw...same thing, bandsaw and sanders much less, but also much finer dust. Planer/jointer also very bursty but now with bigger chips .. just something to consider.
For sure! That’s why I closed with, “this works for me and my setup, may not work for everyone”. I’m hopeful that bursts with larger particles is caught easier. The bursts with fine was where I was experiencing larger escape. Thanks for watching and for the feedback!
@@pilsonguitars you probably know this, the super fine dust created by sanding has too little mass and can't be collected with the cfm the DC provides...from reading and experience, that's where the shop vac shines. Not sure if a shop vac or a shop vac dust deputy combo works better here, as the wind speed is even higher...I'd guess a shop vac only is more efficient in capturing all the super fine stuff, but only a test will tell us that :)
Love the new video. However doing it this way seems to now be ignoring the dust not captured by the filter? As it assumes all dust that made it past your separator is captured by the filter. I'd imagine some escaped, or is it a really really good filter?
I’d like to think it’s a really, really good filter, but I’m sure this thing isn’t 100% sealed up. But the improvement over what I was running is drastic.
Going off on a tangent, I think you could have saved that $22 investment in the scale, assuming you have the necessary parts on hand. Create a balance scale with a hanger for your filter on one side and enough weight on the other to balance all but maybe a pound or so of the filter. A sturdy putty knife might make an acceptable fulcrum, or some bearings and a rod through the beam would make a fancy one. Put your kitchen scale under the filter where the beam is pretty much horizontal. Weighing before and after should provide the weight of the collected dust. The benefit here is that a scale that can weigh 5lbs can probably more accurately measure a small difference than one that can weigh 90lbs. I personally would test this first by weighing the filter and then adding a known weight to it to make sure the beam doesn't somehow scale the weight difference. Hey, it might make for an interesting video itself if it works. How many of us have wanted to weight something but don't have a large enough scale or a bunch of accurately known weights in various sizes?
Dont bother with the dreaded anti static.. if you search no domestic fires have been reported in the US on pvc dust pipes last time myself and several other people checked. I would not put corn flour aluminium powder or milk creamer thru though
You know, I know the justification for the copper strip is to ground the structure, so you DON'T generate static electricity/sparks/fire..... But I wonder what would happen if you INTENTIONALLY generate static electricity to attract the super fine particles.... Similar to how those ionic filters work.. Wonder if that would attract the super fines, and THEN you could ground it to have them drop into a container. You might be able to put some sort of screen/mesh in place that's ionic to attract those particles, and still ground the frame itself to have the static not build up. Would be an interesting experiment.
i am not sure how you work (say) a router or a planer but If I need to get some plywood circles going or get some wood nice and smooth I surely produce 1000 grams of sawdust and chips in (say) less then the 38 minutes you dragged things along... Interesting: I should test what kind of volumes and weights I produce with the various tools involved in my even smaller shop...
Yah, it was a painful way to drag out the test to get some results. If you check out the 4th video in the series, you'll likely find the answer to your volume concern.
Fluid dynamics does not scale linearly. When you reduced your spin down tube you also reduced their length. That was a mistake. The lengths shouldn't reduce as much as the diameters. There should be a slightly longer distance between the drop out points into your capture ports. Other than that piddly little thing your design is great.
You have a nice system! Check out this video about static in dust systems: “Grounding/Earthing a PVC Dust Extraction System! Time to End the Nonsense!!”. It has good information.
Heck yeah! Run another video with some other tests or whatever. I hope the youtube algorythm rewards you with some cash from this, I'll click like and comment. Good stuff
Pretty interesting - though without also weighing the canisters, or indeed the entire machine, you can't know precisely the efficiency numbers; there will be particulate in the tubes, in cyclone, and ultrafine particles that left the system entirely. Im not suggesting that you do this, because thats not really that useful. The efficiency figures across this series are really very good. Id like to see similar tests performed with a cheapo cyclone, regular extractor and shopvac - as i think these tests would be most useful for the practical sort of people that woodworking attracts.
Agreed. I didn’t have those systems available to me to compare. I’ve seen others compare the cyclone vs the Jet separator. Cyclone being the better solution there.
I just can't fathom why anyone would want a horizontal system that takes up so much floor/wall space instead of vertical unit that occupies basically useless corner space. Corners are where things go to be forgotten. At least with the commercial unit I can see the purpose of sliding under a counter, but even then it just doesn't seem like an efficient use of space. Cool project to execute, but to what end?
Congratulations on the setup and the test. However... is you like to be a little more scientific about your approach, you should run several tests e calculate the mean capture rate with appropriate confidence intervals. :D You shuld also see about the scale error rate and factor it into the confidence interval.
@Pilson Guitars - Great work. When you said, "whether you build one of these for your shop is completely up to you", did you mean to say, "Don't complain to me if you build this and it doesn't work"? I ask, because, last I checked, what I build for my shop has always been up to me. I hear this nonsensical disclaimer proclamation way too much on RUclips. It might be easier to tell viewers that you are not liable for other's use of this information. 😜
Nah... don't do any of those... Repeat the test with the weighing of the filter first. If you REALLY have 99,6% [but even the 98.8% is good enough] efficiency just leave it there and be happy with a well done work.
Well, perfection is the enemy of good. 😁 I’ve, by no means, reached perfection, but I’m happy with the improvements enough to put it into regular use. Hoping it does well on the day-to-day.
Please don't waste your time, effort and money on trying to remove the static. If you stop and think, you're applying a conductor, using an adhesive (that's not a conductor) to a PVC/Plastic pipe that's not a conductor. It just doesn't work, you cannot earth the space between the copper, because it's not conductive. The only solution would be anti-static pipes, that don't need earthing, or do they? Conductive paint? I have no knowledge but it sounds better than copper wire. Love the work, the tests and the free plans, it's generous to a fault.
I know you’re a guitar person, but a lot of people were interested in this because of the dust collection system. You lost a lot of people due to the loudness of the music.
An explosion in a shop due to static electricity setting off airborne dust is a myth. Show me 1 documented case. I repeat, show me1 documented case. It's not reral
Any case that I've heard, which are mostly stories from others as opposed to news stories, have mostly been extreme cases. I think you're correct in that the likelihood is low.
@@pilsonguitars maybe in an industrial cabinet shop it might be a slim risk and so I do understand being careful. I worked in a few and I definitely don't want any dangerous situations no matter how slim. There's a few articles in fine woodworking and another Ill try to find that make a better case than me. If of course you do findn an documented case I will eat my words because we should always be ready to learn. Hope I didn't come off as being a know it all, im the opposite.hear's to an open mind and awesome builds..
Hey man, just wanted to say kudos for keeping the testing going. I know it’s a ton of work to do. Incredible gift to the community to share these results and files with us all. Keep up the great work!
I think you should still weight the dust captured by the separator, to get an idea of what was left behind in the piping. I have a feeling that the percentage staying in the piping may decrease with time as all the nooks and crannies get filled in, so more dust will reach the separator after a while.
So the interesting percentage is what is left in the filter vs what enters the separator (what you get in your bins plus what you get in the filter).
Yet, it is a very promising result.
That’s fair. For context though, the rest of the system has been in use with my previous dust collector, so all the nooks/crannies should already be filled in.
@@pilsonguitars Considering how little is passing through to the filter I reckon you should probably also weigh your bucket of sawdust before and after testing. If only 12 grams make it through to the filter I reckon it is possible a similar amount might be left in the bucket
Its really nice to see someone pursuing an idea, concept and whole heartedly share it with other people. In addition im super into centrifugal dust collection as well, so subcribed
Amazing series! Thanks so much for sharing everything. This is what the internet should be!
Wow that is a great job! Very, very impressive!
On idea to help with static buildup, (although would require full reprint and increased material cost and does not address the tube itself) is printing the components out of a conductive filament and grounding that.
You definitely got my subscription from these three videos!
Sitting on the edge of my seat, waiting to see what adjustments you make before I start building my own
I am glad to see your follow up confirmed my assumptions following video 2. The results are terrific- keep up the great content and video production!
This is awesome. Just got my 3D printer dialed in, workshop is up and running, getting ready to add a HF dust collector to replace my shopvac. This is a definite on my list to print and install! Thank you for the research and the video.
Hey, glad you enjoyed the video. Please check out the Capturing Dust channel when you get a chance. (www.youtube.com/@CapturingDust) Ruud has taken my design and performed a massive amount of testing and redesign. He is also providing those files back to the community and is doing a fantastic job!
Thank you for a GREAT video and for taking us along on the journey!!!
Awesome job! I can't wait to build this!
Would you consider selling the printed parts to those of us who do not have a 3D printer or access to one? I'm an OLD GUY and my computer literacy only reaches far enough to watch videos and send/receive email. GREAT JOB on the build. You REALLY nailed it. Thank you.
You can just google "3D printing services" and either find local or online options.
Try your local "Maker Space" if you have one. More than likely they will have a printer and someone to help.
Companies like jlcpcb and pcbway offer 3d printing services, im sure there are tons of others and plenty inside the US
Unfortunately 3d printing is fantastic for prototyping and abysmal for production of any kind. He probably has 150 hours of machine time and 5-6 hours of labour into a set of parts - you can imagine how expensive those would be.
@@rodfrey Thank You but I think you missed my point. Knowing the high expense of getting his project to this point, I thought I might be able to help offset some of that expense by buying from him. If some of us do NOT buy from him, then he bears ALL the expense. I realize, that is his choice but he should also be aware of people wishing to help him with expenses in trade for product.
This gets me so excited!!!!! I just watched all three videos, downloaded the files and am now printing.
Love the tenacity. Great find on the volume/feed.
Amazing results. Thanks for sharing the files!
An interesting test might also be whether this also works as good if the air is sucked through the separator. With something like a CamVac or if placed infront of a regular dust extractors.
That would also work! This video tests Tim design with a dual motor CamVac;
m.ruclips.net/video/ENybYVAr11Q/видео.html
Got to admire your tenacity on this ! = ) Heck of a result !!! Couple of things to mention... Maybe a paint stirrer on a drill to get the dust airborne might have been a little less mind numbing. A slower but still constant rate of feed and then only a little left to hand feed. The second is an easy "shaker" system for anyone interested. Find an old SDS hammer drill, make a flat ended bit, press it up against your extraction cart somewhere suitable ( maybe screw a steel plate on somewhere ) and let rip. Quick, cheap, easy and effective = )
I actually think upping the air volume with the 4" hose helped you. The separation relies on speed. The more you choke off supply prior to the vortex, the slower it will go. You will likely see poorer performance if you necked down to a smaller tool without allowing additional make up air.
Awesome update, well done. Always great when you find out performance is much better than you thought after changing the conditions to be a bit more representative. Looking forward to the next update. Bravo sir
Very neat! I love watching this sort of project come together.
Good final results, the only drawback is the fine particles you are missing or that is escaping is the most dangerous to ones health, use a dust mask as well to be 99.999999% safe.
... peeling supports off my 3rd print batch of parts right now... thanks for the model!
Hi does the turbine part have the newer more curved fins?
Thanks for sharing this. Appreciate the curiosity that drove you to make and refine this, all the work that went into getting it done, and the video editing. Subscribed
Thanks for the feedback and for watching. Really appreciate it.
Looking forward to part 4 with the exit fixed :-) but... what static?
Great update, love the results. In the end it's all about your health and air quality in the shop. I do mostly laser marking on anodized aluminum and that results in very fine dust (the anodized coating is being ablated from the aluminum). Even with dust extraction I do have some dust on the table so I installed on of those air quality measuring devices to measure a.o. those fine (PM2.5) particles.
With this kind of devices now even being sold for home use in the kitchen (I think this is a bit of overkill), there are cheaper versions becoming available for hobby shop use.
Looking into one of those monitors now. Thank you for the tip!
These three videos hopefully get you a lot of subscribers, because you earned it!
Appreciate the kind words! Thanks for watching.
Well done!! I almost purchased one of those devices from Woodcraft, they had it on sale for $25. After seeing how they clogged up when running a jointer and a planer I decided to go with a cyclone on top of a 55 gallon drum. My CamVac catches the fine dust so I'm pretty satisfied with that set up. Hope yours doesn't clog up when you start milling wood.
You are an inspiration to us. Glad to see the new numbers, big improvement.
👏👏
That’s extremely cool that just by changing the measurement method you were able to get above 99% collection efficiency!
Have you tried having the fan pull air through the system and push air to the filter? This way you won't have material in the impeller reducing effectiveness on the airflow? Also stops damage to the impeller.
With my setup, I don’t really worry much about material damaging the impeller because I don’t have much for large chunks that go through. I may still try it anyway.
These are great videos, and I'll be honest, really brighten my day when I see a new one pop up in my feed. Great job. Hope the step file I linked below will make the next video come along quicker!
Really appreciate the kind words and feedback!
@@pilsonguitars hope to build one as soon as you get all the improvements nailed down!
Also looks like youtube scrubbed my link to the STEP file. Let me know how to get you the file.
@@8BitLife69, my email is over on my website if that helps. pilsonguitars.com
What an amazing outcome!
Pretty great efficiency! If my G700 ever breaks before my prusa does, will definitely consider printing/building my own.
well done on your results after a lot of hard work. I suppose with a P1S arriving soon to replace my ageing Ender 3 I'll finally get around to doing this in my workshop now that I can see a clear path to success.
I truly wouldn;t bother putting a copper wire inside the tube, however. a) it;ll get crap caught on it all the time and b) I guess the reason people want you to do it is that they are scared of a fire caused by a spark and the dust suspended in the air. While yes in theory that is possible, the amount of dust needed to be suspended in the air to start a fire or explosion from a static spark is so incredible that you're never going to get close to it.
Looking forward to hearing your results!
I hear a lot of back and forth on dust/static hazards. There are very, very few examples that I can find, outside of large industrial shops, where it’s ever been an issue. I was thinking about some thin, adhesive-backed copper tape that I’ve seen. Seems unobtrusive enough and easy just to have “something”.
I would like to see a test after running a CNC project that makes a decent amount of dust.
Great video and follow ups , Someone has made one similar out PVC pipe but there was lot more crude,
But I do like the idea that outlet and end cap are one piece kind like turbo housing
I built myself a really big Centrifual trap for my dusty, did it all from sheet steel, and had it dropping into a big bin. Never worked very well, would clog up and hard to get in and unclog it, so I ended up just keeping it all in place and using the usual bag at the end. I think I'll have to give this a go, it'd fit much easier, and I can 3d print it. Do you think a third seperator would do better?
And new video idea to keep the steam going, methods to quiet down the dusty. It's the loudest thing in my little shop by far. Building it into a box? Or whatever you can think of.
I think stepping up to a larger tube is the best opportunity for improvement.
Appreciate the ideas for other areas to explore. I agree, it’s one of the noisiest components in my shop as well.
To sound isolate, you also need to silence the ducting. By reducing the vibrations in them. Sound tends to be all about vibrations firstly. Secondly is the sound. So reduce vibrations to floor etc. Then afterwards, you try to 'isolate' the sound creators. Try buy a heavy duty rubber matt to stand the dusty on to begin with. So it doesn't make your floor resonate like a speaker.
I am still hoping you move the impeller (original dust collection blower) to the exhaust side of the cyclones. Since you have to rotate the airflow down into the Wynn anyway, you might as well capitalize on the space used to mount the blower there.
Great test / videos. subbed!
Wow that’s very cool great job
Great work! Thank you and congratulations!
Incredible work. 👍
one could put the filter up top and have a collectionbag below. maybe saves the filter a little bit too?
Yah, essentially putting the separator in front of the existing Harbor Freight setup and adding a filter on top and bag on the bottom.
The jointer throws a lot of material and the Harvey eats it. If the bins get close to the too
I love this series, please keep improving
Appreciate the encouragement! Thanks for watching.
Thank you for your dedication, spending 38 minutes of your life feeding dust for the sake of science! I would love to see a comparison against your existing cyclone if you can.
Given the impact of the feed rate and the fact that you're going to rebuild it, is it worth considering an 8" tube now? Large clear tubes are expensive, but now that the design is proven and you have a good idea about how to best measure the performance - Maybe an opaque plastic tube is now viable? You could even use a section of 8" steel duct which also resolves the grounding issue. You can still add windows (Cut from your 6" tube and flattened out a little) where required.
Man, that was tough! I felt like that was more true to my equipment though. Others probably have a more aggressive dust flow, but likely larger particle too.
I think 8” is the way to go. Not sure I’m going to take it to that level, but I think you’re right about not needing to go clear now. (which would make it quite a bit cheaper) Really like your idea of cutting some pieces from the clear 6” too and flattening them out a little as windows.
Thanks for watching and for the feedback!
Nice Job, I will be interested to see what happens when you change the final collection bin inlet. I wonder how it would handle a planers exhaust \dust.
Yah, a planer would be interesting. I hear they generate significant amounts of course material. I didn’t have to accommodate that so I’ll be interested to hear from anyone that gives this build a try and can test.
It handels a planer pretty well!
m.ruclips.net/video/ENybYVAr11Q/видео.html
I build Tim’s design and modified the outlets and put it in front of my CamVac to run my planer. It works like a charm! m.ruclips.net/video/ENybYVAr11Q/видео.html
Great result
Nice to see the continuation of this series!
I think I'm going to build one of these. I built my current setup on a mobile cart so I can move it from tool to tool, but I placed the motor too high and when I empty the collector of dust, it throws off the balance just enough that it can begin to tip over when moved from the wrong side. I've learned to _push_ it and NEVER _pull_ it.
I'm glad you're considering building your own. Before you build, please take a look at the @capturingdust channel. Ruud has taken my design and modified it to the next level, greatly increasing the volume of material. It's some great work on expanding the idea.
@@pilsonguitars ha! Good call. I think I've already watched all the videos there at least twice now!
Fantastic, I would say without doing anything you have put this to bed for me... Now I am wondering if I should wait for your upgrades or just glue up the pieces I have already made. Either way I am way ahead with a nice dust collections system. Sorry to pose another experiment for you but since your way more willing to chase a rabbit down the hole then I have the patience for I am hoping to pose another problem. In you second video you placed the cyclones in series and it had the effect of increasing the PSI. Now from my understanding its not really good to use a 2 inch hose with a dust collection system because the air flow drops so low that a shop vac would be better. Based on the second video could you create something to go inline with the dust collection that would bring up the air flow enough so it didn't lose out to a shop vac?
All the updates I’ve made are in the current files on GitHub. Any changes I make going forward (or other’s make) will show there. (comments show each update on GitHub)
As for the reduction in sizing, the lowest diameter in the system is 4”. The only reduction is from 5” out of the blower to the “Y” which reduces to 4”.
Any more improvements on this system? I need more!
Nothing yet. Just working around the shop and breaking it in.
Great video, thank you for sharing, I love the effort to learn and improve! This is my first ever comment on RUclips to hope it’s not wasted!
Do you think it’s possible or worthwhile to scale it down? Something which would work with a vacuum for hand tools. Would take up less room than a bucket and cyclone. Thanks
First of all, thank you for watching. I'm honored to be your first interaction on RUclips! 🙂 As for your question, I think it's feasible since the airflow would also slow (likely) with the vacuum setup. There are existing units that others have referenced which are built specifically for portable vacuum based setups. I haven't tested any of those, but my design was simply a scaled down version of the Harvey design. (8" down to 6") My recommendation would be to grab whatever tube size you are considering and run some test prints. I would starting printing the inlet and then just abort it after about 10mm in height. That will leave you with a ring that you can start test fitting for tolerance with your size of pipe. (adjust your scaling factor and repeat)
Will you be making any more videos on the dust collector? I’ve seen there’s a new guy working on this design from the Netherlands but it would be easy to see more research on it from yourself. Also what HP is your blower?
My main focus is guitar building. The dust collector was a need and my project was successful for my needs. If you check out the 4th video in the series, I introduce you to Rudd, my new dusty friend in the Netherlands. 😁 He has already done a massive amount of work, taking inspiration from my effort, and now greatly improving on the design. He is also making those plans available and continuing to invest in the project.
I'm totally planning on building this! In my space I'm planning on placing the blower between the filter and tubes in the system. Can anything think of a reason not to do it this way?
Many have recommended that exact setup. I considered it, but would have needed to rebuild my stand. I think you’re on a good path!
Jou need dustbins that can handle the vacuüm. It works well in my case; m.ruclips.net/video/ENybYVAr11Q/видео.html
Ive been reading a lot about dist collection recently, and you mention simulating the amounts that come from your tools. One thing a lot of these tests miss is that the dust is not coming off the tools at a dead stop, it is flung at the cutter speed, which makes ultrafine dust much more difficult to trap.
Id be interested to see a test with the actual tools, but instead of measuring trapped dust, measure air quality near the tool before, during and after the tests. The whole point of dust collection is to keep dust out of the air, right?
Yes, agreed. Several have suggested some tools for measuring the air quality. I’d like to do that, though I hate to invest any more money at this point. If I get to that point, I’ll see about posting some results. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great work! Now that you've had it for a while, would you recommend this over something like a Super Dust Deputy based system? Have you had any problem with the system clogging?
The Super Dust Deputy is a great system from everything I’ve seen and read. If I hadn’t built my own system, that was my next purchase. Mine seems to be working well. I haven’t had any issues with clogging but I’m only collecting from my machines which don’t produce a lot of large particles. So far, I’m pleased with the results. There is a gentleman from Europe that has taken my design, made some great improvements, and will be releasing a video and file updates soon. I think it’s going to be a solid step up from my design. Thanks for watching!
Question: why do you run all the dust through the impeller before you let it go through the separator? Why not go separator-impeller-filter?
Many have asked the same. It’s because my original Harbor Freight setup was that way, and the commercial equivalent to this system is also setup that way. It works fine for me because I don’t usually capture large pieces. It could work just as well, or better, the other way.
@@pilsonguitars thanks for your response, and sorry for not finding this response on another comment...ergo bonus comment/engagement;)
My extractor has a bag under the canister, and the canister is exposed so I can walk around it with a leaf blower every week or so. Since heavier particles are more likely to fall into that bag anyway, and only really fine ones are going to get stuck in the filter, I’m struggling to see a benefit. My impression is that a separator like this would simply mean I won’t have to empty the bag under the canister as often, but I’ll have to empty the separator’s bags/bins instead.
Similar. I need to have a catch bin under the filter as well. (future upgrade) I don’t really think it prevents the filter from clogging more, but it allows you a means of cleaning it out so that’s not being stirred up. (so maybe that does help keep it clear) Are you running a leaf blower to clean your filter in your shop? Doesn’t that put all that back into the air and make a mess?
@@pilsonguitars, I got the idea from Stumpy Nubs' advice not to use the built-in brush de-cloggers most canisters have - he suggested directing a leaf blower at the filter - from the outside - instead. I walk around the filter, pointing at it, blowing up and down its height, so that every part of the exterior surface area gets a blast of air. While it's switched off, of course. That should dislodge fine particles that are clogging the (pores?), kicking them back inside the canister, presumably to fall down into the collector. If I've neglected it for awhile, it makes a noticeable difference to the airflow.
@@TrevorMag62 , Ah, that makes sense. Appreciate the advice.
Excellent system and well done with attempting it in the first place. How much do you estimate it cost you to 3D print the parts?
Not much. I think I ended up using 2.5 of the 1kg spools. I caught an Amazon sale on one of the spools @ $15 and they are normally around $25. So all in, around $52.
Nice job 👍
When I surface material I get a lot of spiral wood chips. How wood 😂 it do with that?
Is spiral debris even good or is it a sign of something bad?
Are you referring to a planer producing spirals chips? That’s not my expertise, so I would lean into others here that may have more experience. Appreciate you watching!
@@pilsonguitars sorry, I’m so use to commenting on my CNC page that I forgot to say surfacing on my CNC 😳
@@jeffcampsall5435, I'd be interested to see how that does. That is something we would do on occasion so I'll get to see some of that. I think, as long as it's not coming in too fast, it should be able to handle it.
Nice result.. now what 3D printer to buy..........
I highly recommend the Prusa line but they are on the upper end for costs. Some friends of mine are getting really great results from the $100 series of 3D printers with a little bit of tweaking. They really are useful!
Excellent series! Im already printing the pieces, and dont even know where to put anything lol.
But, lets talk feedrate. As we are digging into the fine details here, that feedrate seemed very extra slow...what i see when working are more bursts of material, for example, cutting 48" if plywood in one go normally engulfs the whole jet cyclone with dust, using the floor sweek also does the same, running the miter saw...same thing, bandsaw and sanders much less, but also much finer dust. Planer/jointer also very bursty but now with bigger chips .. just something to consider.
For sure! That’s why I closed with, “this works for me and my setup, may not work for everyone”. I’m hopeful that bursts with larger particles is caught easier. The bursts with fine was where I was experiencing larger escape.
Thanks for watching and for the feedback!
@@pilsonguitars you probably know this, the super fine dust created by sanding has too little mass and can't be collected with the cfm the DC provides...from reading and experience, that's where the shop vac shines. Not sure if a shop vac or a shop vac dust deputy combo works better here, as the wind speed is even higher...I'd guess a shop vac only is more efficient in capturing all the super fine stuff, but only a test will tell us that :)
Great video. Interesting and funny!
Love the new video. However doing it this way seems to now be ignoring the dust not captured by the filter? As it assumes all dust that made it past your separator is captured by the filter. I'd imagine some escaped, or is it a really really good filter?
I’d like to think it’s a really, really good filter, but I’m sure this thing isn’t 100% sealed up. But the improvement over what I was running is drastic.
for the statics there are electrically conductive filaments ;)
or silver/graphite conductive paint / then electroplate
for example also on here: v=Nx-GwKOH5qc
Good to know! Appreciate the tip.
Going off on a tangent, I think you could have saved that $22 investment in the scale, assuming you have the necessary parts on hand. Create a balance scale with a hanger for your filter on one side and enough weight on the other to balance all but maybe a pound or so of the filter. A sturdy putty knife might make an acceptable fulcrum, or some bearings and a rod through the beam would make a fancy one. Put your kitchen scale under the filter where the beam is pretty much horizontal. Weighing before and after should provide the weight of the collected dust. The benefit here is that a scale that can weigh 5lbs can probably more accurately measure a small difference than one that can weigh 90lbs. I personally would test this first by weighing the filter and then adding a known weight to it to make sure the beam doesn't somehow scale the weight difference. Hey, it might make for an interesting video itself if it works. How many of us have wanted to weight something but don't have a large enough scale or a bunch of accurately known weights in various sizes?
I love that you wanted to save me $22! Since my guitar builds don't make me any money, I'm always looking for some cost savings. Much appreciated!
This rocks 12/10🎉
Dont bother with the dreaded anti static.. if you search no domestic fires have been reported in the US on pvc dust pipes last time myself and several other people checked. I would not put corn flour aluminium powder or milk creamer thru though
I’m with ya’ on that. Though some thin adhesive backed copper tape is probably easy and cheap enough to add a little static dissipation.
You know, I know the justification for the copper strip is to ground the structure, so you DON'T generate static electricity/sparks/fire.....
But I wonder what would happen if you INTENTIONALLY generate static electricity to attract the super fine particles.... Similar to how those ionic filters work.. Wonder if that would attract the super fines, and THEN you could ground it to have them drop into a container.
You might be able to put some sort of screen/mesh in place that's ionic to attract those particles, and still ground the frame itself to have the static not build up. Would be an interesting experiment.
Seems like we should go all Mythbusters on that static buildup theory and see what the actual potential is to make an explosion.
i am not sure how you work (say) a router or a planer but If I need to get some plywood circles going or get some wood nice and smooth I surely produce 1000 grams of sawdust and chips in (say) less then the 38 minutes you dragged things along...
Interesting: I should test what kind of volumes and weights I produce with the various tools involved in my even smaller shop...
Yah, it was a painful way to drag out the test to get some results. If you check out the 4th video in the series, you'll likely find the answer to your volume concern.
Fluid dynamics does not scale linearly.
When you reduced your spin down tube you also reduced their length.
That was a mistake.
The lengths shouldn't reduce as much as the diameters.
There should be a slightly longer distance between the drop out points into your capture ports.
Other than that piddly little thing your design is great.
Ah, interesting. Appreciate the feedback on that. Maybe something to iterate on in the future.
You have a nice system! Check out this video about static in dust systems: “Grounding/Earthing a PVC Dust Extraction System! Time to End the Nonsense!!”. It has good information.
Heck yeah! Run another video with some other tests or whatever. I hope the youtube algorythm rewards you with some cash from this, I'll click like and comment. Good stuff
Pretty interesting - though without also weighing the canisters, or indeed the entire machine, you can't know precisely the efficiency numbers; there will be particulate in the tubes, in cyclone, and ultrafine particles that left the system entirely.
Im not suggesting that you do this, because thats not really that useful. The efficiency figures across this series are really very good. Id like to see similar tests performed with a cheapo cyclone, regular extractor and shopvac - as i think these tests would be most useful for the practical sort of people that woodworking attracts.
Agreed. I didn’t have those systems available to me to compare. I’ve seen others compare the cyclone vs the Jet separator. Cyclone being the better solution there.
I just can't fathom why anyone would want a horizontal system that takes up so much floor/wall space instead of vertical unit that occupies basically useless corner space. Corners are where things go to be forgotten.
At least with the commercial unit I can see the purpose of sliding under a counter, but even then it just doesn't seem like an efficient use of space.
Cool project to execute, but to what end?
Many people have low ceilings that make vertical systems difficult.
Well, honestly, I probably didn’t put enough thought into the floor space before I built it. 😏
Yeah I like that guy
Congratulations on the setup and the test. However... is you like to be a little more scientific about your approach, you should run several tests e calculate the mean capture rate with appropriate confidence intervals. :D You shuld also see about the scale error rate and factor it into the confidence interval.
Can I settle for my moderately scientific approach? 😁
@Pilson Guitars - Great work. When you said, "whether you build one of these for your shop is completely up to you", did you mean to say, "Don't complain to me if you build this and it doesn't work"?
I ask, because, last I checked, what I build for my shop has always been up to me. I hear this nonsensical disclaimer proclamation way too much on RUclips.
It might be easier to tell viewers that you are not liable for other's use of this information. 😜
We need to be more concerned about the level of
But I just spent $22 on that high quality scale! I’m not sure I can invest any more. 😁 Kidding… appreciate the feedback.
Nah... don't do any of those... Repeat the test with the weighing of the filter first. If you REALLY have 99,6% [but even the 98.8% is good enough] efficiency just leave it there and be happy with a well done work.
Better is the worst enemy of good. You can drive yourself nuts trying to make something ”better.”
Well, perfection is the enemy of good. 😁 I’ve, by no means, reached perfection, but I’m happy with the improvements enough to put it into regular use. Hoping it does well on the day-to-day.
Please don't waste your time, effort and money on trying to remove the static.
If you stop and think, you're applying a conductor, using an adhesive (that's not a conductor) to a PVC/Plastic pipe that's not a conductor. It just doesn't work, you cannot earth the space between the copper, because it's not conductive.
The only solution would be anti-static pipes, that don't need earthing, or do they?
Conductive paint? I have no knowledge but it sounds better than copper wire.
Love the work, the tests and the free plans, it's generous to a fault.
I know you’re a guitar person, but a lot of people were interested in this because of the dust collection system. You lost a lot of people due to the loudness of the music.
Well hey, I'm thankful you stopped by and hopefully you found something useful.
An explosion in a shop due to static electricity setting off airborne dust is a myth. Show me 1 documented case. I repeat, show me1 documented case. It's not reral
Any case that I've heard, which are mostly stories from others as opposed to news stories, have mostly been extreme cases. I think you're correct in that the likelihood is low.
@@pilsonguitars maybe in an industrial cabinet shop it might be a slim risk and so I do understand being careful. I worked in a few and I definitely don't want any dangerous situations no matter how slim. There's a few articles in fine woodworking and another Ill try to find that make a better case than me. If of course you do findn an documented case I will eat my words because we should always be ready to learn. Hope I didn't come off as being a know it all, im the opposite.hear's to an open mind and awesome builds..
I appreciate the comments. I’m always open to learning and safety should be top of mind for all of us.