I love your gradual approach to the craft. You are correct that knowledge isn't the same as skill. I'm an old gear-head who's been fascinated by mechanical watches for many years. Since my days of tearing down and rebuilding engines and gear boxes are long gone, I'm building up the confidence to take on watches. This video has definitely added to my confidence. THANK YOU!
I am just getting into this hobby and have this very movement being shipped to me right now. This video is exactly what I am planning to try as my first task with the movement. Thank you so much for taking the time to show this operation real time. It has perfectly answered some of my questions and relieved a lot of nervousness I've had waiting to the movement to arrive.
Glad you came to the knowledge. Start big - pocket watch movements, do them until you can do them with your eyes closed! and then work down in size. Remember - average day at the bench don't start by stampeding straight at the balance. Loosen a few screws, wake your hands and your tweezers up slowly .like a pre-work, work-out.
I just fitted my first balance wheel after giving up after the first 30 minutes without success. The first time my patience was running thin so decided to take a break and came and watched your video again. Returned to the movement and after a couple of goes it went in :-) The trick was knowing where to hold the balance and getting a good angle for my eyes. I found it more useful using a loupe rather than the Tomlov scope I have, I think that will be more useful when it comes to oiling.
These movements are great to learn on. You can use the excellent ETA 6497/98 documentation for oiling information. The only problem with the Chinese movement is that the incabloc springs do not hinge back properly. They tend to fly out of the holder if you hinge back more than 45 degrees. I hinge them back into a small ball of rodico to help prevent this. They usually lack any oil or grease. Once cleaned and lubricated properly, they run very well. Thanks for the video! I know there is a lot of work making them.
great video. Even though I've seen a lot of videos, I haven't seen it explained so very well. It almost feels like I don't have to practice anymore ;) Thanks. Have you placed the timepiece afterwards on the timegrapher to see if there were any changes?
kalle slaap is his name i had a lot of skill and the most stuppid tools and my result were good.. if you can make a shity movement run great thats watchmaking ... learnd that from kalle!!
Very instructive video. My problem: the more I secure the screw, the slower the wheel turns, then stops. I have visually inspected it; the two feet under balance bridge are in place, the wheels at first are turning, so all seems right. I never screw it down overly tight, just enough. Wondering if you'd know why this would be happening. Thanks.
@@curiousassortment You could check for end shake - the pivots should be able to move up and down - have you taken the jewels out - is it possible they have been put back in incorrectly or with the cap stone upside down?
@@watchout9213 I'm new to this so I'm not sure about some terms. By "pivots" I assume you mean the two legs under the top plate of the balance. Not sure what you mean when you say I have taken the jewels out - I only removed the balance wheel assembly - one removal. Also I dropped the thing once, so something might have fallen out. Cap stone?- not sure. I have the feeling I need a decent digital microscope to better examine what I am doing. Thanks again for your reply!
@@curiousassortment I suggest watching LOTS of videos, and reading some articles - this will help you with the terminology - an then its just practice practice practice - I still have a very long way to go myself before I am anywhere near competent.
I do everything through the scope, which has pros and cons. It's really a case of working out what is best for you. Part of my workflow is driven by the fact I'm filming. I use the scope as my top down camera, so it's always there. If I wasn't using the scope I'd have to get another camera and I don't want to do that. If the camera gear wasn't in the way (and I wasn't trying to keep my ugly head out of shot), I think a loupe would be a better way to do. Jus don't be afraid to experiment with different kind of loupes. If you wear glasses you will probably want to start with one that clips on. Watch my tools video and I show the loupes that I have. Good luck with the dis-mantle - you will learn a lot - first thing to do is to be able to name all of the parts as you take it apart. It's good to have an exploded diagram printed out sitting next to you. I have one and still refer to it when making videos when I have a mental block and can't remember immediately what something is called.
Brilliant! Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. I have a couple of loupes, only cheap ones to try, but have to hold the movement so close that I don't think I could work like that. I've watched tons of Videos and I never see the guy's head so I thought I may be missing something lol. I do wear glasses so have the clip on ones and the problem is they don't fit very well and are quite close to my own lens. Today I tried holding the loupe further away and that seemed to help a lot with the focal length. I have my first movement coming soon, ST6320 (6498) to practice on :-) but in the mean time I'll try and sort something out. Have a great Christmas! @watchout9213
4:22 Just FYI I believe that the lift angle on that movement is 44 degrees not 52 degrees selected on your timegrapher and so your amplitude reading is way off. Thank you for the video.
OK - hadn't checked that - for the sake of this exercise just looking for a good strong amplitude, but YES would need to be more diligent in setting up the timegrapher for a proper re-build. Thanks for Watching!
I don't think I've really changed my technique, but with everything so much bigger it is easier to see exactly what is going on, and so refine my technique rather than having to guess.
I love your gradual approach to the craft. You are correct that knowledge isn't the same as skill. I'm an old gear-head who's been fascinated by mechanical watches for many years. Since my days of tearing down and rebuilding engines and gear boxes are long gone, I'm building up the confidence to take on watches. This video has definitely added to my confidence. THANK YOU!
I am just getting into this hobby and have this very movement being shipped to me right now. This video is exactly what I am planning to try as my first task with the movement. Thank you so much for taking the time to show this operation real time. It has perfectly answered some of my questions and relieved a lot of nervousness I've had waiting to the movement to arrive.
You're welcome!
GREAT video! as someone beginning this hobby your channel has been extremely educational for me, and your words very comforting regarding learning
Thanks so much for Watching.
Glad you came to the knowledge. Start big - pocket watch movements, do them until you can do them with your eyes closed! and then work down in size.
Remember - average day at the bench don't start by stampeding straight at the balance. Loosen a few screws, wake your hands and your tweezers up slowly .like a pre-work, work-out.
I just fitted my first balance wheel after giving up after the first 30 minutes without success. The first time my patience was running thin so decided to take a break and came and watched your video again. Returned to the movement and after a couple of goes it went in :-) The trick was knowing where to hold the balance and getting a good angle for my eyes. I found it more useful using a loupe rather than the Tomlov scope I have, I think that will be more useful when it comes to oiling.
Well done!
Yep. That Chronoglide video was great. 🍸🍸
These movements are great to learn on. You can use the excellent ETA 6497/98 documentation for oiling information. The only problem with the Chinese movement is that the incabloc springs do not hinge back properly. They tend to fly out of the holder if you hinge back more than 45 degrees. I hinge them back into a small ball of rodico to help prevent this. They usually lack any oil or grease. Once cleaned and lubricated properly, they run very well. Thanks for the video! I know there is a lot of work making them.
Thanks so much for Watching!
great video. Even though I've seen a lot of videos, I haven't seen it explained so very well. It almost feels like I don't have to practice anymore ;) Thanks. Have you placed the timepiece afterwards on the timegrapher to see if there were any changes?
Yes, still looks good on the timegrapher. Usually when something goes wrong I find the amplitude goes down.
kalle slaap is his name i had a lot of skill and the most stuppid tools and my result were good.. if you can make a shity movement run great thats watchmaking ... learnd that from kalle!!
Very instructive video. My problem: the more I secure the screw, the slower the wheel turns, then stops. I have visually inspected it; the two feet under balance bridge are in place, the wheels at first are turning, so all seems right. I never screw it down overly tight, just enough. Wondering if you'd know why this would be happening. Thanks.
It certainly isn't correct. You'll just need to keep on pressing on to work out what the problem is I'm afraid.
@@watchout9213 Thanks for your reply.
@@curiousassortment You could check for end shake - the pivots should be able to move up and down - have you taken the jewels out - is it possible they have been put back in incorrectly or with the cap stone upside down?
@@watchout9213 I'm new to this so I'm not sure about some terms. By "pivots" I assume you mean the two legs under the top plate of the balance. Not sure what you mean when you say I have taken the jewels out - I only removed the balance wheel assembly - one removal. Also I dropped the thing once, so something might have fallen out. Cap stone?- not sure. I have the feeling I need a decent digital microscope to better examine what I am doing. Thanks again for your reply!
@@curiousassortment I suggest watching LOTS of videos, and reading some articles - this will help you with the terminology - an then its just practice practice practice - I still have a very long way to go myself before I am anywhere near competent.
Hi, I''m just starting out on my first ever movement dissmantle and wondered if you used your scope to do this or did you use a loupe as well?
I do everything through the scope, which has pros and cons. It's really a case of working out what is best for you. Part of my workflow is driven by the fact I'm filming. I use the scope as my top down camera, so it's always there. If I wasn't using the scope I'd have to get another camera and I don't want to do that. If the camera gear wasn't in the way (and I wasn't trying to keep my ugly head out of shot), I think a loupe would be a better way to do. Jus don't be afraid to experiment with different kind of loupes. If you wear glasses you will probably want to start with one that clips on. Watch my tools video and I show the loupes that I have. Good luck with the dis-mantle - you will learn a lot - first thing to do is to be able to name all of the parts as you take it apart. It's good to have an exploded diagram printed out sitting next to you. I have one and still refer to it when making videos when I have a mental block and can't remember immediately what something is called.
Brilliant! Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. I have a couple of loupes, only cheap ones to try, but have to hold the movement so close that I don't think I could work like that. I've watched tons of Videos and I never see the guy's head so I thought I may be missing something lol. I do wear glasses so have the clip on ones and the problem is they don't fit very well and are quite close to my own lens. Today I tried holding the loupe further away and that seemed to help a lot with the focal length. I have my first movement coming soon, ST6320 (6498) to practice on :-) but in the mean time I'll try and sort something out. Have a great Christmas! @watchout9213
4:22 Just FYI I believe that the lift angle on that movement is 44 degrees not 52 degrees selected on your timegrapher and so your amplitude reading is way off. Thank you for the video.
OK - hadn't checked that - for the sake of this exercise just looking for a good strong amplitude, but YES would need to be more diligent in setting up the timegrapher for a proper re-build. Thanks for Watching!
Good on you mate.Your new movement look smick. Love it mate.👍🏿👍🏼
How did you find doing it this way as compared to your last time on your last watch???
I don't think I've really changed my technique, but with everything so much bigger it is easier to see exactly what is going on, and so refine my technique rather than having to guess.
I was so nervous when you started taking off the balance without powering it down. :)
But I guess people put it back in while the movement has power so yeah
Yeah - of course it is the pallet fork that "holds" all the power in, so as long as that is in place the movement can stay fully wound.