Sir, I can't thank you enough for your video. I used the vehicle's USB charger as a trigger like you have and the cigarette lighter socket as a current limiting button.
@@FrugalFactorMr FF.. I have a class b van that has a battery isolator to charge the lead acid battery.... It runs in conjunction with a cutoff switch.. when the switch is on..the coach has power and the coach battery gets charged... When the switch is off... It shuts down power to the coach and shuts off charging to the coach battery I traded for a renogy 20amp DC to DC charmer
If you used a switch for seat heater or wired windshield defroster that automatically shuts off when the ignition is turned off you won't accidentally drain the starter battery.
@Frugal Factor Thankyou so much One more question.. So the 2 red wires from the switch doesn't matter which one is connected to the positive wire on the van and the signal wire..
Well, yes. Electrically its the same point of contact. The alternator is connected to, and charges the battery. You could connect to the battery or the alternator, its easier to connect to the battery due to its location.
Excellent information you've provided here. I have a class C motorhome. I recently swapped out the original LA batteries with lithium and now I need to install a DC to DC charger. Can I use the original cables from the starter battery to connect to the new charger?
Do you have a link for that switch you used? And have you seen any of similar size with two switches? Would be nice to have a switch for the current limiter too.
This is a link to the switches I purchased amzn.to/3lTZYdp I used these in several places in the build. I have not seen two switches that would mount in a cigarette lighter socket. That would be nice for several applications. I will keep my eyes our for such a switch.
@@FrugalFactor sorry about all the questions but I keep getting more in my head watching your videos multiple times haha. So talking about fuses. Will I need a inline fuse between the dc to dc charger to the starter battery? Knowing that I will be plugging directly to the 70amp fuse from the starter battery of the car? Or will that 70amp fuse be enough protection? I do believe that I need a fuse for the output side of the dc to dc charger to the house batteries if I’m not mistaken
Is there a reason you ran a switch instead of just finding a component in the battery compartment that is only on when the ignition is on? Did you just want the ability to manually turn it off and on?
Yes, I don't want it to run when the van is at low idle. I turn it on only when needed, and only when on the highway. No need to have a load on the alternator when the batteries state of charge is at 100%
Hello and thanks for uploading. I have a couple of things I'd like to confirm regarding some of the connections made with the D+ wire and the limiting wire. Does is matter which of the 2 red wires coming from the switch connect to the existing (yellow?) wire and to the signal wire(s)? Also, it looks like you twisted the 2 signal wires together when the connection was made to the red switch wire? Much appreciated!
No, either of the two red wire will work. There is no polarity. When the switch is closed those two wire connect completing the circuit, sending +12Volts to the DC to DC charger.
@@FrugalFactor thank you! And did you simply splice and twist the D+ line and the LC line together before connecting into the 2-conductor Wago? (when connecting to the switch, that is)
@@tylermackenzie6098 Yes, and I used another Wago connector in the garage area. So, if I want the full current charging with 40 Amps I can simply disconnect the LC line from the Wago connector in the garage area. I did this one day on our 10,945 mile trip just to fully test out the system.
Thanks for making this video. I do have a concern however. Running the wire inside the pex pipe is a great way to protect it, but there is nowhere for the heat generated by the conductor itself to escape. If the pipe holds the heat in and it gets hot enough, it could melt the outer jacket on the conductor. It is nice how you talk nice and slowly so a person can absorb what you are saying.
If the conductor generates that much heat you have selected the wrong gauge of wire, and/or not protected the wire with the correct fuse or circuit breaker. Thank you for the comment.
I am charging lifepo4 batteries. Specifically, two 202AH batteries from Big Battery and recently a 280AH battery from SOK. I recently did three videos on the new battery. Here is the link for the first video ruclips.net/video/vUAHamLjVaA/видео.html Also at the videos can be seen by category at thefrugalfactor.com/ Thank You for watching.
So the correct dip switch setting for lithium batteries is the one shown in the overlay? Switch 1 & 5 off? Other videos show the original setting (all on except 5). Are you sure on this?
After emailing Renogy to be sure - Yes. Also, if you follow the manual those are the settings for a type 2 lithium battery, providing 14.4 volts. You could also check with your battery manufacturer to ensure that charging at 14.4 volts is best.
Sir, I can't thank you enough for your video. I used the vehicle's USB charger as a trigger like you have and the cigarette lighter socket as a current limiting button.
Glad it helped
@@FrugalFactorMr FF.. I have a class b van that has a battery isolator to charge the lead acid battery.... It runs in conjunction with a cutoff switch.. when the switch is on..the coach has power and the coach battery gets charged... When the switch is off... It shuts down power to the coach and shuts off charging to the coach battery
I traded for a renogy 20amp DC to DC charmer
If you used a switch for seat heater or wired windshield defroster that automatically shuts off when the ignition is turned off you won't accidentally drain the starter battery.
Hello thanks for sharing with us. How this dc to DC charger is working for you.?
Excellent at both 20 and 40 Amps. It just works!
@Frugal Factor Thankyou so much
One more question..
So the 2 red wires from the switch doesn't matter which one is connected to the positive wire on the van and the signal wire..
So the DC to DC charger wires run directly off the battery and not from the alternator?
Well, yes. Electrically its the same point of contact. The alternator is connected to, and charges the battery. You could connect to the battery or the alternator, its easier to connect to the battery due to its location.
Excellent information you've provided here. I have a class C motorhome. I recently swapped out the original LA batteries with lithium and now I need to install a DC to DC charger. Can I use the original cables from the starter battery to connect to the new charger?
Possibly, it depends on the wires Gauge, the Amperage, and the length. Use this calculator to find out circuitwizard.bluesea.com/
Hi, may i use the battery while it is charging with that charger?
Yes
Hello there can you tell us what wire gage you used to that signal wire where it was connected? Thanks in advance 😊
12 AWG
Do you have a link for that switch you used? And have you seen any of similar size with two switches? Would be nice to have a switch for the current limiter too.
This is a link to the switches I purchased amzn.to/3lTZYdp I used these in several places in the build. I have not seen two switches that would mount in a cigarette lighter socket. That would be nice for several applications. I will keep my eyes our for such a switch.
Would you have the link for the toggle switch itself?
Link to Switch amzn.to/3g68PJf
@@FrugalFactor sorry about all the questions but I keep getting more in my head watching your videos multiple times haha.
So talking about fuses. Will I need a inline fuse between the dc to dc charger to the starter battery? Knowing that I will be plugging directly to the 70amp fuse from the starter battery of the car? Or will that 70amp fuse be enough protection?
I do believe that I need a fuse for the output side of the dc to dc charger to the house batteries if I’m not mistaken
Is there a reason you ran a switch instead of just finding a component in the battery compartment that is only on when the ignition is on? Did you just want the ability to manually turn it off and on?
Yes, I don't want it to run when the van is at low idle. I turn it on only when needed, and only when on the highway. No need to have a load on the alternator when the batteries state of charge is at 100%
Hello and thanks for uploading. I have a couple of things I'd like to confirm regarding some of the connections made with the D+ wire and the limiting wire. Does is matter which of the 2 red wires coming from the switch connect to the existing (yellow?) wire and to the signal wire(s)? Also, it looks like you twisted the 2 signal wires together when the connection was made to the red switch wire? Much appreciated!
No, either of the two red wire will work. There is no polarity. When the switch is closed those two wire connect completing the circuit, sending +12Volts to the DC to DC charger.
@@FrugalFactor thank you! And did you simply splice and twist the D+ line and the LC line together before connecting into the 2-conductor Wago? (when connecting to the switch, that is)
@@tylermackenzie6098 Yes, and I used another Wago connector in the garage area. So, if I want the full current charging with 40 Amps I can simply disconnect the LC line from the Wago connector in the garage area. I did this one day on our 10,945 mile trip just to fully test out the system.
@@FrugalFactor beautiful, many thanks
Thanks for making this video. I do have a concern however. Running the wire inside the pex pipe is a great way to protect it, but there is nowhere for the heat generated by the conductor itself to escape. If the pipe holds the heat in and it gets hot enough, it could melt the outer jacket on the conductor.
It is nice how you talk nice and slowly so a person can absorb what you are saying.
If the conductor generates that much heat you have selected the wrong gauge of wire, and/or not protected the wire with the correct fuse or circuit breaker. Thank you for the comment.
Why wouldn’t you say what batteries you’re charging?
I am charging lifepo4 batteries. Specifically, two 202AH batteries from Big Battery and recently a 280AH battery from SOK. I recently did three videos on the new battery. Here is the link for the first video ruclips.net/video/vUAHamLjVaA/видео.html Also at the videos can be seen by category at thefrugalfactor.com/ Thank You for watching.
So the correct dip switch setting for lithium batteries is the one shown in the overlay? Switch 1 & 5 off? Other videos show the original setting (all on except 5). Are you sure on this?
After emailing Renogy to be sure - Yes. Also, if you follow the manual those are the settings for a type 2 lithium battery, providing 14.4 volts. You could also check with your battery manufacturer to ensure that charging at 14.4 volts is best.