Fair Warning for Mercedes Sprinters. I have a 2016 Mercedes 4-cylinder cargo and I have NONE of those connections under the driver seat. There is no auxilary conection, no bus connections, and not other way to tie into pretty much anytning. It turns out, these are optional components available only if the proper options were selected at the time of manufacture. Otherwise you pretty much have an undocumented and very difficult mess to deal with. This video was great BTW, it definitely game me ideas how to wire ignition.
I've watched many of these videos (some very scary) before coming to yours. This is one of the best I've seen. The use of a breaker under the seat is inspired. Also, I have been wondering why people haven't been using chassis ground. I was thinking there must be something that I was missing. Thank you for verifying. This will save me 50% of cabling money. I do have one question. I like to have my cables premade. Do you happen to remember the size of the stud on your positive connection?
Great video. About to do this in my 2013 Sprinter. What is the AMP rating of the Blue Sea breaker switch? Thanks. I have the 50A Renogy DC-DC Battery Charger with MPPT
I’m know I’m late to the party here, i liked the video. Do you happen to have a schematic I could follow? Ive a 2017 3ltr v6 diesel with a smart alternator using 400ah lithium leisure batteries and really found it hard to find anyone to wire up my 60amp renogy dcdc charger. Im not afraid to do it if i have a roadmap. Cheers
I have a sprinter and am currently in the process of installing two Victron DC to DC chargers. I am adding a thermostat that will automatically turn off the DC to DC chargers if my battery temp is too low since I do not have low temp sensing in my batteries. Have you ever included this feature and your thoughts rather than a dash switch?
Excellent video. Are you sure you are connecting to the correct post? I've seen a MB diagram that says terminal 1 which is smaller and called terminal d+ is power with engine running and you connected to terminal 3 that is for ignition power.
Mentioned strain on alternator....my 22" is rated at 80amps and then overcharging battery....really don't think that is an issue at all with a proper built system. It is a nice shut off option but for me would be unnecessary.
I have a camper trailer that is equiped with a Lithium battery. I’m not recharging the camper’ à battery while travelling, thus disconnected. I heard we would need a DC to DC to charge a lithium battery, something to do with the AMPs of the lithium battery that is a little more than 12V. If we would want to charge the lithium battery, from our SUV’s battery (while travelling), do I need a DC to DC charger between the SUV battery and the camper’s battery? We tried to find someone in Montreal that has the knowledge and the competency to do the work. What would you suggest? Thank you so much!
Yes a DC to DC charger is exactly what you would want. Basically you are using your vehicles alternator (while engine is running) to power your DC to DC charger. This allows your DC Charger to charge your lithium "house" battery while traveling. The size of the DC charger is based off the size of your lithium batteries. Renogy has some information at the bottom of this page to give you an idea of what size charger you would need. www.renogy.com/battery-chargers/dc-dc-battery-chargers/ These are the chargers we use in our vans but there are plenty more options/brands to choose from.
I would first have your Alternator tested for output at idle and 2500 rpm.. Then have them print the results out. That way you know your alternator can handle the charging loads. Idle being the most important one. As you can damage an alternator not designed to idle charge more then 60 amps.. Which is what the vehicle requires just to run.. And make sure you turn everything on when they test it. Like AC, Headlights etc.. That way you know the true output at idle..
I noticed your fire extinguisher ? If you care about your sensitive, expensive power system you need this fire extinguisher, yes more expensive but it's rechargeable , brand is hr3 performance maxout dry chemical car fire extinguisher, the extinguisher doesn't leave powder residue most people never heard of these extinguisher I have 2 in my overland builds I'm Not sponsored only Information well worth the money comes in different sizes 😊
What does that mean CCA.. As 4ga is 4ga... And the color is to identify that positive from the negative..Where Clear wire is identified as Grounding conductor..
@@WizzRacing CCA means Copper Cladded Aluminum. So Aluminum wire, with a coating of copper on it. Typically I have found most manufactures of CCA wire to insulate it in red or black clear insulation as shown in the video. CCA 4awg wire is the thickness of 4awg, but since it is an aluminum copper mix it can't transfer as much power. Typically it is half. So a 4awg CCA wire is equal to a 8awg copper wire.
@@THeChickmagnet0031 I get that but 4ga CCA is rated for 125 amps.. Only good reason to avoid it. As most people don't tighten the lugs once a year. I think most of the confusion is this is a hold over from Car Audio people..As OFC is more flexible. Less prone to oxidation.. But anybody doing this should be using Dialectic grease to start with..Unless you use all Aluminum. Then you need NLGI Grade 2 grease..
@@THeChickmagnet0031 It's a 125 amps for 4 hours or less.. And I bet you $10.00 you got the 55 amp off some car audio site. As 90amps is "Continuous use" Why you have to size the fuse to the application..
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Great video, thanks a lot
Fair Warning for Mercedes Sprinters. I have a 2016 Mercedes 4-cylinder cargo and I have NONE of those connections under the driver seat. There is no auxilary conection, no bus connections, and not other way to tie into pretty much anytning. It turns out, these are optional components available only if the proper options were selected at the time of manufacture. Otherwise you pretty much have an undocumented and very difficult mess to deal with. This video was great BTW, it definitely game me ideas how to wire ignition.
I've watched many of these videos (some very scary) before coming to yours. This is one of the best I've seen. The use of a breaker under the seat is inspired. Also, I have been wondering why people haven't been using chassis ground. I was thinking there must be something that I was missing. Thank you for verifying. This will save me 50% of cabling money.
I do have one question. I like to have my cables premade. Do you happen to remember the size of the stud on your positive connection?
We used 5/16 lugs at each side of the connection
What size lugs are being used under the seat? Thanks!
Great video. About to do this in my 2013 Sprinter. What is the AMP rating of the Blue Sea breaker switch? Thanks. I have the 50A Renogy DC-DC Battery Charger with MPPT
Your fuses should always be rated for max amperage of the wire gauge you are running. In our case, we are using a 60 amp breaker.
I’m know I’m late to the party here, i liked the video. Do you happen to have a schematic I could follow?
Ive a 2017 3ltr v6 diesel with a smart alternator using 400ah lithium leisure batteries and really found it hard to find anyone to wire up my 60amp renogy dcdc charger. Im not afraid to do it if i have a roadmap.
Cheers
Do you happen to have a link to the breaker used?
I have a sprinter and am currently in the process of installing two Victron DC to DC chargers. I am adding a thermostat that will automatically turn off the DC to DC chargers if my battery temp is too low since I do not have low temp sensing in my batteries. Have you ever included this feature and your thoughts rather than a dash switch?
Any good DC-DC charger should include a Temp probe for High\Low cut off... Does Victron cheap out on that function?
Did you fuse your ignition indicator wire? Do I need to?
No we did not no need to fuse that wire
Excellent video. Are you sure you are connecting to the correct post? I've seen a MB diagram that says terminal 1 which is smaller and called terminal d+ is power with engine running and you connected to terminal 3 that is for ignition power.
We used a multi meter to ensure that terminal only received power upon engine start. Thank you for the heads up though!
Why the switch? I thought this DC to DC charger automatically turns on and off with the engine..
This....going into the d-tap should eliminate the need for the switch. Confused as well why they put one in.
Mentioned strain on alternator....my 22" is rated at 80amps and then overcharging battery....really don't think that is an issue at all with a proper built system. It is a nice shut off option but for me would be unnecessary.
How in the hek did you get the white plastic cover (between the two cab seats) off? I need to run a cable through that area. ? Thanks.
You need to remove the entire seat shroud (the white metal box the seat sits on)
I have a camper trailer that is equiped with a Lithium battery. I’m not recharging the camper’ à battery while travelling, thus disconnected. I heard we would need a DC to DC to charge a lithium battery, something to do with the AMPs of the lithium battery that is a little more than 12V. If we would want to charge the lithium battery, from our SUV’s battery (while travelling), do I need a DC to DC charger between the SUV battery and the camper’s battery? We tried to find someone in Montreal that has the knowledge and the competency to do the work. What would you suggest? Thank you so much!
Yes a DC to DC charger is exactly what you would want. Basically you are using your vehicles alternator (while engine is running) to power your DC to DC charger. This allows your DC Charger to charge your lithium "house" battery while traveling. The size of the DC charger is based off the size of your lithium batteries. Renogy has some information at the bottom of this page to give you an idea of what size charger you would need. www.renogy.com/battery-chargers/dc-dc-battery-chargers/ These are the chargers we use in our vans but there are plenty more options/brands to choose from.
I would first have your Alternator tested for output at idle and 2500 rpm.. Then have them print the results out. That way you know your alternator can handle the charging loads. Idle being the most important one. As you can damage an alternator not designed to idle charge more then 60 amps.. Which is what the vehicle requires just to run.. And make sure you turn everything on when they test it. Like AC, Headlights etc.. That way you know the true output at idle..
I noticed your fire extinguisher ? If you care about your sensitive, expensive power system you need this fire extinguisher, yes more expensive but it's rechargeable , brand is hr3 performance maxout dry chemical car fire extinguisher, the extinguisher doesn't leave powder residue most people never heard of these extinguisher I have 2 in my overland builds I'm Not sponsored only Information well worth the money comes in different sizes 😊
I've found that clear insulation on the wires is usually a sign of CCA. Hopefully you didn't run 4awg CCA to the back...
What does that mean CCA.. As 4ga is 4ga... And the color is to identify that positive from the negative..Where Clear wire is identified as Grounding conductor..
@@WizzRacing CCA means Copper Cladded Aluminum. So Aluminum wire, with a coating of copper on it. Typically I have found most manufactures of CCA wire to insulate it in red or black clear insulation as shown in the video.
CCA 4awg wire is the thickness of 4awg, but since it is an aluminum copper mix it can't transfer as much power. Typically it is half. So a 4awg CCA wire is equal to a 8awg copper wire.
@@THeChickmagnet0031 I get that but 4ga CCA is rated for 125 amps.. Only good reason to avoid it. As most people don't tighten the lugs once a year.
I think most of the confusion is this is a hold over from Car Audio people..As OFC is more flexible. Less prone to oxidation.. But anybody doing this should be using Dialectic grease to start with..Unless you use all Aluminum. Then you need NLGI Grade 2 grease..
@@WizzRacing Where are you seeing 125a? Everything I am seeing CCA 4awg is rate for 55-90 depending on temps.
@@THeChickmagnet0031 It's a 125 amps for 4 hours or less..
And I bet you $10.00 you got the 55 amp off some car audio site. As 90amps is "Continuous use" Why you have to size the fuse to the application..