GE Microwave Keeps Blowing Fuse / Breaker - DIY Fix
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- Microwave in this video - GE Model JVM3160RF4SS
UNPLUG your microwave before you begin anything
Door switches - amzn.to/3OGKXJ3
New Latch Bracket - amzn.to/3rXmoy1
20A Fuse - amzn.to/3DYI54J
My GE microwave kept blowing the fuse when it was mid cook or when I opened up the door. I decided to film the troubleshooting. I figured since the breaker was blowing when I opened the door that one ( or more) of the door micro switches had gone bad and was causing the microwave to error out and blow the fuse. This process will be a little different for some of the different brands such as Whirlpool, Samsung, LG and others but the overall process is all the same. I hope you found this video helpful and informative!
Microwave not working
Microwave keeps blowing fuse
GE Microwave won't turn on
Microwave turns off when I open the door
GE Door switches
Fits the following models (not all applicable models may be listed): AVM4160DF1BS , AVM4160DF1WS , AVM4160DF2BS , AVM4160DF2WS , AVM4160DF3BS , AVM4160DF3WS , JNM3160DF1BB , JNM3160DF1CC , JNM3160DF1WW , JNM3160RF1SS , JNM3161DF1BB , JNM3161DF1CC , JNM3161DF1WW , JNM3161DF2BB , JNM3161DF2CC , JNM3161DF2WW , JNM3161DF3BB ,
JNM3161DF3CC , JNM3161DF3WW , JNM3161DF4BB , JNM3161DF4CC , JNM3161DF4WW , JNM3161MF1SA , JNM3161MF2SA , JNM3161MF3SA , JNM3161MF4SA , JNM3161RF1SS , JNM3161RF2SS , JNM3161RF3SS , JNM3161RF4SS , JVM1630BK01 , JVM1630CK01 , JVM1630WK01 , JVM1631BK01 , JVM1631CK01 , JVM1631WK01 , JVM3160DF1BB , JVM3160DF1CC , JVM3160DF1WW , JVM3160DF2BB , JVM3160DF2CC , JVM3160DF2WW , JVM3160DF3BB ,
JVM3160DF3CC , JVM3160DF3WW , JVM3160DF4BB , JVM3160DF4CC , JVM3160DF4WW , JVM3160DF5BB , JVM3160DF5CC , JVM3160DF5WW , JVM3160EF1ES , JVM3160EF2ES , JVM3160EF3ES , JVM3160EF4ES , JVM3160EF5ES , JVM3160RF1SS , JVM3160RF2SS , JVM3160RF3SS , JVM3160RF4SS , JVM3160RF5SS , JVM3160RF6SS , RVM5160DH1BB , RVM5160DH1CC , RVM5160DH1WW , RVM5160DH2BB , RVM5160DH2CC , RVM5160DH2WW , RVM5160DH3BB , RVM5160DH3CC , RVM5160DH3WW , RVM5160RH1SS , RVM5160RH2SS , RVM5160RH3SS
The fact you take the time to record, edit, and post a video like this to help people means you're an angel thank you
🙏
Absolutely
My guy, you saved me almost $300! Same model, and same switch went bad in mine. Can’t thank you enough brother! God bless!
Boom! That's good stuff!!
Thanks, you saved me. My wife bought a three-year warranty on this same microwave, I told her not to. I saved the old microwave that was identical. I have used the door, the keypad, and now the switches from the old one to fix the new one. The microwave broke exactly on the last day of the three-year warranty.
I would like to thank you IMMENSELY for this video. I'd disassembled my microwave about 10 times going through different fuses, a new breaker, almost putting in a 30 amp in place of the 20 amp until I saw this video. Lifesaver!!!! Thank you so much!!!
This video was excellent and allowed my wife and I to repair our GE Profile MW and have it back up in 24 hours! Thank you THANK YOU! One note, to remove the switch, the detail on how to release the plunger pin was not clear, I saw that on another video. Also when I ordered switch from amazon with your link, (perfect fit, delivered next day on a Sunday!) actually all three switches came together for $10.00. Two of the switches are the same and one is different, I needed the different one. Got to be sure you are installing the correct switch. Anyway worked perfectly first try...I did take a picture of the circuit board connections and my wife and it helped us get all the five plugs back exactly where they came from.
That was definitely the best 2 minutes 47 seconds I ever spent on RUclips! Thanks, Key Fob Rob!
Glad I could help!
Great video on this most common problem. In my case, the switch holder was slightly moving and making one switch break contact if you gently pulled on the door, blowing the fuse since the other two switches were still made. If you notice on the switch holder piece, there is a place for a third screw by the lower switch. I added a screw here and it took out the excess play and now works as intended. It sure looks like it was made for a third screw as the case has the hole also, GE just cut corners and left it out.
Well done!
Hey Jeff, if my switches keep blowing (the same one) do you think the extra screw will help?
Mine has been working great since I added the screw. Give it a try, nothing to lose.
@@jeffdanger12 thanks for the tip. I think the screw fixed mine too!
I have this exact model. It kept kicking off 1-2 seconds in and tripping the breaker. The wife was about to order a new one but I decided to Google fixes first. It was a free repair and saved us $600! For us we didn't have to replace anything. 1 of the 3 switches was fused, but after cleaning the gunk off of it (eventually oils and dust settle in), it was back to clicking like brand new. Put it back together and it's worked since. Thank you!
same thing with mine! after taking it apart and playing around with it it started clicking again!
My Frigidaire Gallery had been doing this for about a year. Changed the switches and always had a supply of fuses on hand. Always a joy to have to take the microwave apart in the middle of a holiday dinner or while entertaining friends and someone decides they just can't wait any longer and throws open the door. After a year, the constant tripping finally ruined the 20amp breaker in the panel - good news is...I got to learn how to replace that myself!! Finally threw in the towel and picked up and installed this same GE model today...and I am so PO'd to find out that I am going to have the very same problem with this one!!!! I lived most of my life being impatient and throwing the microwave door open mid-cycle - never once had the unit stop working. Man....they just don't make things they way they used to. But, thank goodness we have great people out here to educate us, get us through, and keep us sane!!
Yeah - GE and Frigidaire are essentially the same internals :/
I followed your very clear instructions and luckily, it was the 20 AMP fuse that was the issue. A quick trip to the hardware store and replaced the $4.00 fuse and the microwave works! Thank you for saving me $250 or more.
Glad it helped
Exactly! 😂
Wow a 2.5 minute video that’s straight to the point and very helpful thanks so much!
Glad I could help!
I had the same symptom of the microwave tripping the breaker after 1-2 seconds of operation. I followed your methodology and diagnosed the problem to a mechanical misalignment of the top sensor switch, i.e., the door "hook" was not actuating the top sensor switch. I hot glued the switch into place and it now works. Ninety minutes of fairly straight forward disassembly, debug, and reassembly saved the cost and hassle of purchasing a replacement microwave. Thank you!!!
Great job! Invested a little time but that's a whole lot better than a new unit 👍
@@KeyFobRob Yes, I noticed on my microwave (and yours) that the plastic ramp for the door hooks gets worn because all the parts are cheap plastic. And like Nick said the hook fails to engage the micro-switch which is very sensitive. I was trying to think of a way to do a field repair but decided to order the whole switch holder (with built in ramps) plus the switches to give it a new lease on life. My switches are working electrically but I'm an electrician and I don't trust them. ....not after tripping the cb. It's unbelievable that they made the hook ramps cheap plastic. Microwave doors used to have a squeeze handle to first disengage the hooks on the door side.....but now they just go cheap. We have ovens at work that must be 30 years old. Oh yeah, the face of the hook itself is also wearing a groove from all that slamming into the switch plunger. Thanks for the video. Saved me lots of money.
I was really close to buying a new microwave, but then I saw your video. It was the exact same switch as in your video. I ordered the switch off Amazon and then a few days later was able to replace it. It wasn’t difficult at all. You save me a bunch of money. Thank you!
Good stuff!! Glad you can get a little more life out of it 👍
My spouse and I were emotionally preparing to buy a new microwave. There was a spark behind the motherboard and then the thing refused to turn on. Our Hail Mary pass was searching on RUclips for our model and fuse location. We found this video. We ordered the parts in the description and $24 later we have a working microwave! You just saved us a few hundred dollars in under 30 minutes. We really owe you.
That is fantastic!! Really glad you could get it sorted out. Nice job you two 👍
Thank you! Your information helped me fix our microwave and saved us the expense of replacing it. Everything was exactly how you describe it in the video. I found the stuck switch after wrangling the door latch out of the microwave. I was showing my wife your video and demonstrating how I was going to remove the switch when it started working properly. I put everything back together and the problem was solved! I only wish I had read the comment about the third screw for the door latch while I had the control panel removed, I definitely would have put in another screw.
I was anticipating a microwave replacement, I watched the video, ordered the switches and we are back in business! Thank you so much for sharing this knowledge!
UPDATE: The microwave worked for fine for about 10 uses, I opened the door while it was running and i think I toasted a door switch again. I'm going to try one more batch of switches and see if that works. I have a feeling the morale of the story here is to stop the microwave before opening the door.
Glad I could help!
Hey Matt! Did your microwave hold up after the second fix?
Often, when this happens the door latch (thing that holds the switches) has been worn down - New Latch Bracket - amzn.to/3rXmoy1
That happened to me. It's the top fuse, not the ones in the inside panel.
Clogged switch for me, cleaned and reinstalled and worked perfectly.
I feel like I had more screws but regardless, thank you thank you thank you for posting this 2 years ago.
Good stuff! Glad you could get it sorted out!
Replaced my bad switch just as you demonstrated. Spent $7 and fixed it myself. Thank you!
Boom!
Fantastic video!!! I was literally getting ready to go buy another microwave until I watched your video. It was indeed the same door switch. I pressed on my frozen switch a few times and it broke free and started clicking again like the others. It likely arc welded itself closed and pressing it several times broke the weld. I'm going to replace the switch to be safe, but I'm back up and running until my part is delivered. Great work! Thanks Again!
Good stuff! And you're right, that switch will likely go bad again so good call on replacing it
Just wanted to come back to your video and say thank you. My problem was the exact same switch that you had an issue with. Your video saved me about $500 on a replacement microwave.
Fantastic 😊 Thanks for stopping in
You are the man. New 20A fuse and cleaned the sensors. One of the sensors was sticking due to the grease factor. Cleaned with isopropyl alcohol and they started popping up fine. Total cost $3:49 for the fuse.
Good stuff! Glad you could get it sorted out for a couple bucks and little bit of your time.
Thank you so much! I just repaired my GE Microwave which was having the same issue and your video saved me from having to buy a new one! Spot on and great step by step instructions. Especially appreciate the guidance on getting the bracket back in by folding it around. Thank you!!
Glad I could help!
This was exactly the issue with my Microwave. I was so happy to find this video. It was even the same switch that was the issue. I cost me 20 bucks in parts from amazon and took about 20 minutes to make the change. 10 minutes to take it apart and then wait 2 days for the part and then 10 minutes to put it back together.
Glad I could help!
your life saver! was about to replace microwave. dreaded the thought because of cost and pain to reinstall. then take a chance it would break the tile in the shower, since bathroom is on other side, and we have a builtin nook that is right next to the mounting bolts for microwave on other side. so yes you saved a nightmare experience . thank you!!!!!!!!
Lower switch was the one for me - thank you for posting this!!! Now I partially know how a microwave works…
You rock!
Awesome! Glad you could get it sorted out
You literally saved me $150 svc call or buying a new unit. Fuse cost me $12 on Amazon and took me about 15 mins to install as I'm not remotely handy. Thank you very much!!
Fantastic!
Great video , I have a side note hope it helps others in troubleshooting the problem. When I put an ohm meter on the load and neutral (not ground) of the microwave's plug, it would ohm out indicating continuity . After I took out panel that holds the pressure switches and cleaned them out with alcohol and a q-tip it it no longer ohm out. I put it back together, and it works fine.
Thank you very much. This video helped me fix our microwave. One doesn't realize how useful a microwave is until you don't have one. thanks again, very helpful, Matt San Diego CA
Glad it helped! Take care
I didn't have to replace the switches, at least not yet. But following these instructions I took the switches up, cleaned them well and was able to get them "clicking" again. It solved my problem. I will be ordering the replacement switches anyways and get them replaced. Thank you very much for this video. Cheers.
Very nice! 👍
thanks a lot i order my switch 5.90 and now i am back in business......you was great
Great 👍
I was literally on my way to Home Depot for a new microwave, you saved me over 300 bucks! You are the man! TY!
Boom!! Awesome 😎
Thank you, this was my exact issue I was having. Ordered and replaced switch, works perfect. Ten minute fix and I'm not what you call a handy man, lol.
Glad it helped!
You just saved me $400-500. I ordered my part on Amazon for $6, it came in less than 24hrs and I’m up and running. Thanks so much
Great! Glad you found the video helpful!
This video was very helpful for me this past weekend. I have the same GE Microwave oven that stopped working. So, I found your video and followed your instructions exactly (even ordered the switch from Amazon) and just like that...I'm back in business (Microwave fixed). Thanks for posting this helpful video.
Glad it was helpful!
Man I took mine completely out of its spot took the whole damn thing apart, found the blown fuse, replaced it, fuse blew again instantly and now its sitting in the garage and I was looking to purchase another one that can fit in the bracket on the wall, now I'm going to try this. I should have known there would be a youtube video for this years old microwave lol. Thank you sir.
Also check the latch bracket along with the switches. These go bad a lot after use - New Latch Bracket - amzn.to/3rXmoy1
@@KeyFobRob I shall thanks again!
Dang I wish that the microwave I'm working on was as clean as that one. Thanks for helping me access my burnt fuse.
Glad the video was helpful
Thanks! Just happens to be the exact same microwave I have. The ol' take it apart, jiggle it, and put it back together trick worked. All three switches tested good for me, though. Plugged it back in, and it worked.
Ha! Nice! I'd suspect it will start to act up again at some point. If all the switches are still in good shape, the switch holder could be your issue. It could be causing misalignment - amzn.to/3FYPOzM
@@KeyFobRob And... You were correct. Lasted about a day. I tried to get smart and just bypass the switches, but I read that the switches have to all transition from closed to open at around the same time for it to work. Damn lawyers and safety engineers at it again, protecting me from myself.
Great video! Thank you much. Saved me $200 and a 30-60 day wait for a new microwave. Word of caution: be careful with that upper trim piece. Mine is broken & the replacement part is $131. I’m just going to wedge it in & hope for the best. Great video. Thank you, thank you !!
Great tip! Glad you could get it sorted out
Microwave in this video - GE Model JVM3160RF4SS
*UNPLUG your microwave before you begin anything*
Door switches - amzn.to/3FSjAGR
20A Fuse - amzn.to/3DYI54J
Wow, $5 fix vs hundreds. Thanks! One thing to note in buying the switches. Make sure it’s the right type: Normally Closed vs Normally Open. For my GE microwave, looks like it was the Normally Closed (NC). You can tell by looking at the diagram on the switch where the path is connected (NC or NO).
Great tip!
Guess what happened to my GE Microwave today ? Exact same problem on what appears to be the exact same model. Well Done Key Fob Rob !!!!
Glad the video could help you get your microwave sorted out!
Rob : you are awesome.. new homeowners like me always find this video helpful.. I just had the same problem and just followed your steps now amazon selling 3 switches together for $9.. thats the only $$ I spent.. much thanks for your video..
no problem :)
This video is great and taught me how to fix my microwave and get it back up and running. I have to ask though, is anyone else having this problem just repeat itself over and over? I've replaced the switches a few times over, and most of the time, the same one as in this video is bad. Sometimes even when they're all working, now that I've moved things around, it can be touchy when closing the door if you don't do it just right. I feel like I'm doing something wrong but I don't know what quite yet. The switches I buy off Amazon keep going bad fairly quickly and seem to not be good quality. I'm about to just give up and get a different brand of range top microwave.
Check your latch bracket. It's likely causing the exact same issue to repeat itself. New Latch Bracket - amzn.to/3rXmoy1
We have a GE Profile over range microwave and hood fan that stopped working. I checked the fuse and it was, indeed blown. I replaced it and it blew immediately, so I checked the door switches. They are all working properly, which means it may be the interlock relay, or something even more difficult and expensive to replace. I think it's time for a new unit. Ours was made in 2007, so we got a pretty good life out of it. Thanks for the posting, though. It's always good to know you tried the easy fixes before you threw in the towel.
Man! I have my entire microwave disassembled and can't figure out why mine it keep blowing fuses. I just found that my exact same switch is stuck like yours, Would never even have thought to look there but thanks to your video I'm gonna order the part. Praying it fixes it... it's not a cheap microwave. Thanks bro!!
Nice!!!!!! If your switch was stuck like mine, replace that and you should be up and running
@@KeyFobRob be here Tomorrow I will let you know. I was about to trash the damm thing. Lol
@@deransanchez3162 fingers crossed
I just fixed mine but the switches werent the problem! Just the 20amp slow blow fuse on the top of the panel behind the metal grate. The thermostat vent fuse on the right is always closed so dont assume its bad! The one on the left is a different part number and tests fine without the load. I spent $40 to learn the hard way.
Thank you so much! I was able to fix the microwave...just a sticky switch but your video made it so easy to check. I wouldn't have known where to start. Thank you again!
Glad it helped!
Awesome and thanks for creating this video. This is exactly what was wrong with our GE microwave. Ordered the part on Amazon for 5 bucks. Took about 15 minutes to swap out the part and now back to microwave'n my frozen burrito.
Glad it helped!
@@KeyFobRob Hi - I have same problem and I replaced the middle switch “NC” which gives continuity when door is closed. I also replaced it with 20A / 125V fuse but the fuse blow away after few mins but the switch still looks good. This is my 4th fuse and it keeps blowing. Any thought/idea what is causing this ? Thx in advance.
Hay man much appreciate this video.One of my door switches were bad.Local appliance part store had one .I’m back in business thanks to your video
Boom! Glad it helped!!
Super…video key fob rob……you helped me out to fix same issue. Panicking because over the range hassle..and GE slate colour. Replaced limits a couple of times before seeing this and as you mentioned to replace the plastic “lock asm” as they call it (the bracket that holds micro switches). I noticed the ramps on the door slots worn a bit right at the end where the latch would drop down. I could be wrong here but maybe a worn ramp tip now a bit shorter length could allow the middle interlock microswitch not be the first to close on door close and first to open on door open. It’s the middle micro sw. that I kept blowing. In replacing the new bracket I noticed the middle micro off set to left a bit so I added a spacer (credit card thickness) on the end before sliding switch in, it was still thin enough to lock tab on micro switch. It sits more centred and all is good now. I noticed a light smearing of lubricant on the ramps of the replacement lock asm, hmmm, maybe I need to look into further as a maintenance item, I don’t want to wear out these ones to soon! Not to much though as it will collect on that plastic pivot below it. Thanks again for posting!👍
Glad I could help!
I'll have to check this with my Frigidaire. It worked great up until about a year ago and after about five seconds of running, the entire circuit breaks; the oven is on the same one. I replaced the fuse about four times and it immediately blows. Father-in-law suggested bad capacitor, so we took the microwave down, gutted it, replaced the capacitor and still the same issue. I'm tempted to just look for a replacement.
I actually was able to do this by myself. You saved me a couple hundred dollars as I was about to buy a new microwave!
wow, Worked for me! I actually was able to do this by myself Thanks so much for posting this and the links to the parts.. You saved me a whole bunch of money and aggravation with a repair person, as I was about to buy a new microwave as per the wifey's request. Thanks again from the bottom of my heart she thinks I'm a genius now
That's fantastic man! Glad I could help save you some cash and get some brownie points
My switch was just stuck. I loosened it up and got it working again. Thanks again!!
Nice!!!
Thanks this fixed our issue with the microwave.
Glad it helped
Great Job. Great concise explanation. Thanks for your expertise. You helped me immensely.
Glad it was helpful
You should always stop hit the "stop" button before opening the door on a running microwave.
No doing so is kinda like shifting your car into 'park' while it's still rolling.
I agree, the oven should be stopped before opening door - BUT as shown in the video, the fuse blew 1 or 2 seconds after starting, and no one was touching the the door or any part of the oven. What made the door interlock switch get damaged? Surges/arcing if using the door to stop oven? I had a blown fuse a few weeks ago (on a GE unit but different model) but the switches seem fine. I also tried several ways to 'abuse' the unit by using door but cannot get fuse to fail again.
I tried this fix, but didn't complete fix it. It was tripping breaker almost instantly. So I replaced the three switches. Even though it was the common nc switch at the bottom. Just so I don't have to reopen later. But now it don't trip breaker. The count down starts and keeps running. But turntable is not moving. And don't sound like it's running. Before the switch swap out. It at least ran for few seconds. Not sure what to do now.
Had the exact same problem! Thank you so much. Saved me loads of time, money, and frustration.
Glad it helped
Thank you! Just saved me money since I could fix it myself!
Glad it was helpful!
Perfect. To the point and clear directions! Awesome job!
Glad it was helpful!
Great help! I disassembled and tested the way you said, one of the sensors switches was jammed. I unjammed it with the screwdriver and it started functioning normally again. Put microwave back together and no more circuit breaker trip! Thank you for your help
Good stuff! Glad the video could help you get it sorted out
Same here, stuck sensor switch. Thank you
Well, my stuck switch that I unstuck, ended up getting stuck again. So I ordered fresh switches.
Good to know, I'll do the same. Thanks
@@danielkusk4268 The switch is welding shut because of the root issue. You'll nuke the new switches and weld them shut as well if you dont fix the TIMING. Its a horrible design. After years of use the plastic wears just enough to throw off the safety switch timing. If the switches activate .5 millimeter out of sync, you will blow fuses! You have 2 choices. Buy a replacement latch bracket or try the free DIY fix I posted a video about.
This model of GE microwave is TOTAL garbage! Their design is flawed and they should have to replace ALL these microwaves for FREE. Our microwave has been doing this for several years now and finally today after we have replaced the fuses TOO MANY times... "something" blew again... probably a door switch this time and you could smell the smoke. Not the Fuse. Were done taking it apart and putting it back together. Off to buy another microwave - NOT GE!
Thank you!! This video saved me from buying a new microwave.
Glad I could help!
Thank you for the video!!! Our door switch was bad, appreciate your help!
Glad it helped!
I was really excited to find this and try it, and your video helped me fix it - temporarily. After only 3 times using it, same problem! The circuit breaker tripped and I think I'll find that the same switch is fused. If anyone has had this happen and has another idea what might be going on, that would be appreciated.
If the switch went bad again, it's usually the switch holder that has melted or deformed - amzn.to/3pNDHkh
@@KeyFobRob Thank you again. I installed it and ordered new switches again but now the microwave is doing weird things (like running before I turn it on, or when I redid the switches, not running at all but the light on the inside of the oven stays on all the time.) I may have gotten the switches mixed up (although that seems unlikely the way the pins work) so I ordered another set and will give it one more try.
@@Megahercz Sounds like some of the switches are in the wrong position. Check those again and give it a whirl
@@KeyFobRob Whelp, put new switches in. They look right, are specced right with the parts manual, and the leads attach as they should (and really the only way they can as I see it -- i.e., I couldn't have switched up the NC with the NO because then the leads wouldn't fit on) and it still doesn't work right. It won't start cooking and the internal oven light is always on. So, unless you have any last advice, I'm replacing it. I must have somehow broken something else. Either way, you are awesome for putting this up and the previous responses!
@@Megahercz Bummer - Wish I had any additional ideas but that's way beyond my knowledge. Take care
This solved my problem! The switch was fused together Exactly like shown in the video.
Great! Glad the video was helpful
I don't understand why a busted door switch is tripping my circuit breaker. why would it cause the microwave to draw too much power, and why would it trip the 20A circuit breaker before blowing its own internal 20A fuse?
Its because the switches have to activate in a specific order to work properly. The latch mech is a bad design. After years of use, the latch wears a groove in the plastic guide ramps. 1mm amount of wear is enough to cause the latch to just barely miss the switch it needs to engage first. If they activate out of order its a short circuit.
@@prerunning6086 Good answer. I think this is whats going on with us. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and see, thanks for posting this vid!
@@prerunning6086 So should I replace both?
@@bobpayton6990 If theyre sticking yes they need to be replaced but they will just die again if you dont fix the root issue. Incorrect latch / switch timing causing a dead short across the power lines. This arcs across the swicthes and spot welds them. I came up with free diy fix, check the video i posted.
@@prerunning6086 My latch switches are not sticking. But if I open the door before the item is finished, the fuse will blow. So as long as I let the cycle finish, as normal, it works well. It took a couple of fuses to figure that out.
I do see the wear on the latch slides.
I'm not sure where the video is you posted or it the main one here?
Great video. Fwiw the Amazon link included 3 switches. Only 2 of them matched the microwave. One of the switches had three connectors. I swapped the top two switches though and all is good again. Thank you!
Thanks for the info!
Holy moly this video was fantastic! I was able to take it apart and had the exact same latch issue as the one you displayed on the video. However it unstuck itself and started working again. I am ordering a new set though so when it finally does give out I will have it ready! This was a perfect video! I also did what the third comment said about adding a third screw, Maybe that will cause it not to jam up again!
Good stuff! Glad the video could help you get it sorted out
@@KeyFobRobthank you again!!
😊
Instructions were great and quite relevant for me. Much appreciate the time it took to put together this instructional video.🤓👍
Glad it was helpful!
I used a knife to pry open the switch and I unstuck it. The microwave works again and I just wont open the door while its operating again. (That's what causing it to fail in my case).
Tip: i couldn't unplug the panel easily, so I used tape to hang if from the bottom rather than letting it dangle by the wires.
This was such an easy fix after watching this video. Thanks for the link to the part!
Good stuff! Glad the video was helpful
Thank you, exactly what it was. Lower switch was gone. Great informative video
Glad it helped
You just saved me some money. Quick fix at a reasonable price. 👍🏼
Great to hear!
Best video on youtube. Thanks.
Good stuff! Glad the video could help you get it sorted out
Nice Job! Thank you for sharing this information!!! Very helpful and will save the cost of a new micro wave with just the replacement of a $5 switch.
Nice!!
Totally fixed my microwave...was the fuse! Thank you so much for the video.
Glad it helped!
You, my friend, are a Godsend! Thank you for this video and for your time making it.
Glad to help!
Thanks for saving us a $119 service call. All we needed was the $6 part from Amazon just like you said
No problem! Glad you found the video helpful
yeah we had same problem. Who would imagine that having a blown 20 amp fuse behind the GE control panel would trip the house circuit breaker (I would expect a blown fuse to just result in dead unit). weird, but that was what we saw.
Glad I could help!👍
Well.....
Thanks a bunch!!!
Saved me some money!!!
However, I did forget a very important step.
Remember to unplug the microwave....
It reminded me of the step I forgot.
Lol.
Haha! Whoops - glad you were able to get it sorted out and you're still with us ;)
Dude you just saved me from getting a new OTR. Thank you
Boom! Glad I could save you some cash
Same exact problem same exact solution. Thank you 🙏
Welcome 👍
Here's something you wouldn't consider.
The door latches wear grooves in that plastic assembly, and as a result, the door doesn't close tightly.
It remains slightly ajar, and switches don't work properly. This happened on two ovens. Too expensive to replace that assembly.
That's a common problem. New Latch Bracket - amzn.to/3rXmoy1
Follow your system and it worked the first time then the second module blew out and I replaced it. Now, as soon as I plugged it in, the light and everything came on including the microwave, and can't shut it off without unplugging it. Any idea what I hooked up wrong?
Sounds to me like the positioning of the switches is off ever so slightly. You might want to look at your bracket and see if there is wear and tear on the ramps. These cheap parts go bad as well - New Latch Bracket - amzn.to/3rXmoy1
Thank you for this. I had the exact same issue and you just saved me from replacing the unit
You are welcome!
Had no idea about that breaker switch thanks for the vid very very helpful
No problem 👍
I think this is exactly what is wrong with my GE microwave and plan on doing what you did then fix it
Nice! You'll be back up and running in no time!
Thank you for this Key Fob Rob--I will try this immediately; same microwave. Will hopefully save us from buying a crappy cheap replacement microwave! Thanks!!!!
Best of luck!
@@KeyFobRob Just did it--and it worked like a charm. Same switch you replaced, too. But our weeks of blowing the circuit also blew the fuse in the microwave, so had to replace both. But it was a piece of cake, thanks to your video. Thanks again for the tutorial. Saved us!
Thank you so much, my same switch was stuck!
Glad the video was helpful!
Thank you so much. This saved us a microwave.
Glad I could help!
Did this, didn’t fix it. Could be the plastic holder was too warn down. Decided not to spend another $40 on old microwave, and bought a new one. Now it works amazingly.
Yeah - I feel you. Not everything is worth fixing. The plastic latch goes bad a lot on these
I've never fixed a broken appliance myself...you saved me $300 on this. Thank you for the clear and brief instructions. Do you have a Venmo, or some way I could drop you few dollars?
Really glad you got that sorted out! There is a super thanks (heart with $ in the middle) button next to the thumbs up :) Don't feel obligated but anything is VERY much appreciated.
@@KeyFobRob Done...I had to stretch the window out to see that button. Take care!
Good stuff! You rock! Take care
This was VERY HELPFUL. I was able to repair, but 6 weeks later the same thing happened again. I replaced the defective door switch again. Now I am wondering Is there something else I should be doing to prevent this from happening again?😀🙃
If the switch went bad again, it's usually the switch holder that has melted or deformed - amzn.to/3pNDHkh
Chalk up another successful repair! Thank you so much for this video!
That's great news! Glad you found the video and glad it was helpful
I don't understand why the door switches would cause the breaker to blow. Is there a schematic anywhere?
Worked for me! Thanks so much for posting this and the links to the parts!
Glad I could help!
Thank you sir. You just saved me $400-500.
Excellent!
My switch is bad on the door, ordered it and waiting on the new one to come in. I will update once job is complete. Thanks!
Good luck!
@@KeyFobRob It worked for about a day and the same switch blew again. Any ideas?
@@michaeljordy660 The switch is welding shut because of the root issue. You'll nuke the new switches and weld them shut as well if you dont fix the TIMING. Its a horrible design. After years of use the plastic wears just enough to throw off the safety switch timing. If the switches activate .5 millimeter out of sync, you will blow fuses! You have 2 choices. Buy a replacement latch bracket or try the free DIY fix I posted a video about.
I recently bought a 1000watts danby microwave that trips the breaker every 3-4 times i use it. My old nicrowave was a 1100w sharp carousel. My breaker is dedicated to microwave only. What tells me the problem is the microwave or the breaker?