Good advice Steve, thanks. I see a new addition to your workbench, looks like a shop built vibration table made from palm sanders. Any chance of a build video in the future about this?
My first instinct would have been the construction adhesive but you made some good points against it. I never would have considered using PVA! Thanks for the content!
Also superglue somehow comes to mind, at least for smaller pieces. I use cheap pure CA one that is really thin. Got it from RC model hobby store and i kinda like the fact i can use it to actualy visualy hide some of the cracks in concrete, i use sandpaper to go across the crack and once the dust from sanding fills the crack i put few drops in it and sand over that again. repeat that till the crack is no longer visible. basicaly the same approach they use in woodworking or wooden floor industry to fill the cracks.
Paraloid B72 is also a great option. It’s a clear thermoplastic resin used by conservators. It’s strong per than PVA and can be cleaned off with acetone.
I've recently asked about this in your comment section, so i really appreciate you made this video almost immediately after. whether or not it was a reaction to my question. however i wanted to try my luck with cement anyway. i've tried cement slurry with like 1:2 acrylic:water mixture (no sand or gravel) and glued the pieces using that (pieces pre-soaked in water). i am still bit intrigued by the idea of acrylic providing initial waterproof bond, but cement enabling homogenous crystalic structure of minerals to form over time (without being interrupted by plane of pure polymer)... so far it seems to hold well after 4 days of curing. only issue i have is that mixing the slurry with high amount of acrylic admixture seems to promote lumping quite a lot and got thick rather quickly. maybe i should try to use bit less cement to liquid next time or give it more time to soak before applying, because i was not able to squeeze the slurry layer thickness under 1mm, which would obviously be much easier with proper glue. at least it has similar color. Also i was thinking about using yellow waterproof woodworking PVA glue with D4 rating (like Titebond III). It might actually resist water much better than the regular white PVA glue. I wonder if titebond 3 would survive winters in outdoor concrete planter for years or not. But i still think it's worth investigating how to have some cement in the mixture (especialy in my case when cracked part was "only" cured for 10 days, so there's slight chance of geting at least a tiniest bit of crystalisation for improved homogenity). It's probably stupid, but for me it feels like gluing vs. welding.
I've used hot glue to fix cracked patio pavers, and so far it's holding up. Heating up both side with a torch prior is probably required for a good bond.
So something like the Loctite would be best for a heavier concrete repair? A section of the basin from my concrete fountain broke off. Maybe a 5 lb chunk. A construction adhesive would work best? Thanks for the video.
Can you use PVA glue on an outdoor urn planter that has been broken? The concrete is broken in a spot along the rim. The planter will often be wet when I water my flowers. Am I correct in assuming that the constant moisture would compromise the integrity of the repair if I use PVA glue?
Good advice Steve, thanks. I see a new addition to your workbench, looks like a shop built vibration table made from palm sanders. Any chance of a build video in the future about this?
The vibration table video is up now: ruclips.net/video/bqxTNK3xRB0/видео.html&ab_channel=CreatingConcrete
My first instinct would have been the construction adhesive but you made some good points against it. I never would have considered using PVA! Thanks for the content!
you're answering so many specific questions i had with your videos. your channel is by far the best concrete hobbyist channel on youtube. thank you!
Thank you
WOW. Awesome tip. I have always used construction adhesive. I would never have known that PVA glue would be that strong with concrete.
😂 love the ending. Great tips, thanks!
Also superglue somehow comes to mind, at least for smaller pieces. I use cheap pure CA one that is really thin. Got it from RC model hobby store and i kinda like the fact i can use it to actualy visualy hide some of the cracks in concrete, i use sandpaper to go across the crack and once the dust from sanding fills the crack i put few drops in it and sand over that again. repeat that till the crack is no longer visible. basicaly the same approach they use in woodworking or wooden floor industry to fill the cracks.
Paraloid B72 is also a great option. It’s a clear thermoplastic resin used by conservators. It’s strong per than PVA and can be cleaned off with acetone.
I've recently asked about this in your comment section, so i really appreciate you made this video almost immediately after. whether or not it was a reaction to my question. however i wanted to try my luck with cement anyway. i've tried cement slurry with like 1:2 acrylic:water mixture (no sand or gravel) and glued the pieces using that (pieces pre-soaked in water). i am still bit intrigued by the idea of acrylic providing initial waterproof bond, but cement enabling homogenous crystalic structure of minerals to form over time (without being interrupted by plane of pure polymer)... so far it seems to hold well after 4 days of curing. only issue i have is that mixing the slurry with high amount of acrylic admixture seems to promote lumping quite a lot and got thick rather quickly. maybe i should try to use bit less cement to liquid next time or give it more time to soak before applying, because i was not able to squeeze the slurry layer thickness under 1mm, which would obviously be much easier with proper glue. at least it has similar color.
Also i was thinking about using yellow waterproof woodworking PVA glue with D4 rating (like Titebond III). It might actually resist water much better than the regular white PVA glue. I wonder if titebond 3 would survive winters in outdoor concrete planter for years or not.
But i still think it's worth investigating how to have some cement in the mixture (especialy in my case when cracked part was "only" cured for 10 days, so there's slight chance of geting at least a tiniest bit of crystalisation for improved homogenity). It's probably stupid, but for me it feels like gluing vs. welding.
I've used hot glue to fix cracked patio pavers, and so far it's holding up. Heating up both side with a torch prior is probably required for a good bond.
So something like the Loctite would be best for a heavier concrete repair?
A section of the basin from my concrete fountain broke off. Maybe a 5 lb chunk. A construction adhesive would work best?
Thanks for the video.
What can l glue a concrete bird bath and a terracotta plant saucer together with please?
Can you use PVA glue on an outdoor urn planter that has been broken? The concrete is broken in a spot along the rim. The planter will often be wet when I water my flowers. Am I correct in assuming that the constant moisture would compromise the integrity of the repair if I use PVA glue?
Super glue gel can get wet
Yes, I have the same question as above. My concrete birdbath broke in half. It will always be wet. Is the PVA glue appropriate for this item?
Super glue gel can get wet