Geometron G1 Comprehensive Review
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- Опубликовано: 21 июл 2024
- Here’s the lowdown on the g1 after spending a lot of time with the bike. I think riding a bike in this size range can work but it comes with a few unique handling characteristics that you need to adjust to. What are your thoughts on larger sizing/geometry?
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0:00 intro
0:23 Sizing/geometry
2:58 Ride Characteristics
6:30 Is it playful
9:30 Travel Settings
10:50 EXT Storia
13:56 Cockpit set up
17:18 Arm Travel?
20:00 overall impression
23:09 climbing
24:12 frame stiffness
25:13 build quality
26:09 complaints
27:12 build spec
29:11 final thoughts 
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I have a g16 and put down over 30000 km the last 8 years. Mostly downhill tracks and hard trails in the alps. Haven't changed a single bearing in the frame. That's pretty awesome engineering I would say.
Would like to see that pod with Chris Porter. Would also like to see you review the Archibald AC1 or the Orange Stage 7.
The New Generation of kavenz bikes seem to be quite modular.... Maybe that might be an Option
Great video :) that's exactly what I've noticed in the past 7 months since owning a size L Nicolai
Thanx for taking the time to report all of this. Been a fan of the longer bike idea for some time and been riding Large size bikes with more standard geo's and short stems. I'm 5'9" and currently running a large Canfield Balance with a 35mm stem.
All that said, I'm looking at a Ferrum LV160 or NV170. Currently getting more data.
Thank you for all your reviews on G1. They helped me to understand and ride mine G1.
I had the same problem with a front wheel load, especially in flatter turns, ride into berms etc. I thought that a lower rise bars (40>20mm) will fix it - it will put me naturally more on front. At the beginning I was happy, but felt that had too much load on my shoulders (it was way before my shoulders’ rehab, maybe would feel different now). Put back 40mm, and faced up that I will need be active to load the front wheel all the time. But now I understand that I just need to try a longer stem (35mm currently). I had the same ideas that long and aggressive bike needs a stem as short as possible. But yeh, it likes to be leaned instead of turned into the corner. And in that case short stem is not needed.
Rad thanks for sharing. Always nice to hear other people that can relate to my ride experience.
The point you make about operating from a smaller window on longer reach bikes is spot on in my experience. I borrowed a Starling Murmur for a weekend that was at least a full size larger than what I should be riding and it was exactly like you describe. I didn't have my normal range of fore/aft motion, but I was well centered between the wheels and I didn't actually have to move that much to react to the terrain. It felt like I was on the right place both up and down the trails. I wouldn't go that big by choice but the experience helped me understand geometry better..
Also interesting point about matching stem length to fork offset. I ride a small Privateer 141 (27.5 wheels) with an older 44mm offset fork and went from a 40mm stem to a 45mm one in order to be able to put more weight on the front and it worked perfectly. The bike was designed for a 37mm offset fork though, so maybe I'm just compensating for the nervousness that the longer offset brings.
Great analysis overall, always nice to hear your thoughts on geometry and what works for you. Looking forward to the next thing you have lined up.
Thank you! Interesting you’ve had similar experiences with sizing and stem lengths.
Great review. Keep it up.
Thank you!
Dude, great review.
I've had G1 for 3 years now and absolutely love it. Best bike I've ever had ! I'm lucky to live just 45min drive from Geometron HQ so benefit from fantastic support from these guys.
After watching your review I felt really intrigued by your thoughts on rear travel as I've been running it in high travel since new...I've switched it to lower mode and boom ! Bike has changed its character as per your observations, it's much more playful and not less capable (at least on the trails I'm riding ).
Thanks for the excellent review !
It’s wild how much the bike changes between travel modes. Dramatically diffferent leverage rates. I’d say the short is better for 90% of riding. Caries so much more speed. I’d only use long travel in the steepest wettest conditions where traction is paramount.
@briancahal Couldn't agree more! I do also have on my bike the longest chainstay mutators available- 53mm and prototype seat stays mutator 21mm.
I've intentionally increased BB height from 335 to 350mm what gives me much more clearance on really technical parts. Not much change to HA, still at 63deg so far from being steep 😆
I used to run mullet but returned to 29er and not going back.
Love the content! Are you going to do a full review the Titan?
I had that bike a while ago so not sure if I can really do a full review on it
Would love to hear your thoughts on a RAAW Madonna.
Keep up the great work!
Looks like a great bike and I've heard good things. On the list of bikes I would be interested in owning.
Quality wasnt that good on V1 and V2... V3 should be good. However I'm blown away by the new Propain Bikes Ekano & Tyee
Thank u awesomeness review
dam those trails look gooood!
So I was just going task about the rulezman stem too! I'm 6"2 and currently on a s4 Kenevo Sl... And was wondering if you tried a smaller stem with a high rise bar for a more upright position? I'm going to put the rulezman on with an enve 50mm rise dh bar on the Kenevo Sl, but curious about that set up on the geometron and the 458mm chain stays. Big fan of balance too, been using the motion instruments telemetry for a few years and balanced suspension with a balanced bike sounds like a perfect set up to me... Hence my interest in the geometron and possibly a banshee legend. Thoughts??
I’d be apprehensive about going higher and shorter. I feel like I found my sweet spot with where I want my weight. I think if I went that route I’d want an even longer chainstay to get weight on the front with a more upright riding position. The banshee legend looks sweet from a geo perspective.
@@briancahal so you have a large geometron and your friend had a small, yes? Have you ridden the medium? I'm curious about a longer reach with a more upright moto type riding position..not as extreme as the raised reverse stem but somewhere between your 42mm stem (I'm currently on a tenet 42mm stem) and the raised reverse which is why I want to try the rulezman with a higher rise bar..(have you seen Dakotas hight rise bars on his mondraker? His riding position looks great on that bike)
Im hearing many similarities to the spesh enduro review you did.
You could also add more hsc to get a bit more pop
Ever thought about a complete custom geometry frame? I just found out the new polygon DH9 has a separate dropout piece, I'm getting a xl and machine some long dropouts to extend the Chainstay to 475-485mm and raise the BB 5mm.
And this DH bike has 78.5 ST angle, with a wireless dropper and a set of 12 speed this could be the ultimate downduro bike.
I mean I’ve thought about it but it’s never a cheap option and there’s not a lot of options out there.
@@briancahal True that, I got this idea after I saw the guy on vital bike check who custom ordered a titanium gearbox 200/200 bike from China.
Nicolai, the makers of the G1, also offer custom geometry, you can contact them
Thanks for the video. May I ask about your body dimensions? Long leg short trunk vs short leg long trunk? I just got an XL at 190cm tall but is all trunk short legs. Might be a touch long but planning a shorter stem and taller fork to start.
I’m 6’1” with longer legs
Thanks, watched it through. Personally looking at Saturn 14 gearbox in longer travel... I'm 186cm (6'1) too and it's an impossible choice between M, L or XL.
I have Slthe S14 and G1. Both in L. I'm 186 like you. I would not go smaller than L, the reach throws you off, but with the steep seat angle you sit well positioned. I think I'd feel cramped on a Medium. If it's just for downhill and park you might get away with medium but if you pedal and stay seated go with the Large.
@@dogdaysunrise1970 thanks for sharing! Thoughts about XL haven't crossed your mind?
We probably could ride an XL, but since we're right in the middle of the sizing chart for the L, it didn't cross my mind to go XL. I met a guy once on the trail he rode XL being 6 feet tall. He's actually selling his XL right now on pink bike marketplace.
It’s funny you should say 45mm stem worked best. I changed to 45mm as well and felt much comfortable .
I just ordered a Kavenz VHP 16 with both the +10mm and +20mm rear dropouts. I assume that lengthening the rear center will have a pretty significant impact on the kinematic and suggested shock settings. Did you find it necessary to adjust your shock setting when lengthening the rear center length of the G1 using the mutators?
Yes it would have an effect on the kinematic im just not sure to what degree. I will talk to geometron in the next couple days for the podcast and see what they have to say. I do feel Iike my shock was over leveraged or had a light tune so it will be interesting to see if having the longer chain stay mutators had something to do with it
@@briancahal Thanks for the reply. Looking forward to the podcast. I'm definitely keen to hear what they say about it.
I've tried -10mm, 10mm and 20mm stem lengths on my large G1. They all work but my favorite is 20mm.
Where did you get a 20mm stem? I can't find those old FG mondraker stems, and the only short option out there I've seen is rulezman's stem which is out of my budget range.
@@ZhengZL69 SPANK has direct mount 25mm stem.
Quick question, you mentioned all the mutators, but what travel is the fork? Handlebar width? Thanks mate
Fork travel is 170mm bar width is 760mm
you should try the rulezman handlebar clamp, 18 mm is the sweet spot!
Curious to try but very expensive and hard to get.
@@briancahal I have one on my Nicolai Ebike. Might be up in Briones testing it soon. I have a DC version of the Rulezman posted on PB, Vital and FB . The HT on my Nicolai was too long for the DC fork I had planned. They are hard to get and Dave is a bit eccentric to deal with.
youre a straight genius, brother. Is this bike within the 1.84-1.86 'sweet spot' ratio for front and rear center? or is that not a thing for you anymore..
It's not but cockpit is big enough for you to lean on the bar while still behind the front wheel.
Exactly what you said. Can manage a less balanced ratio because you can actually ride it over the front confidently.
@@RiderP411 mad interesting.
Ratio of this bike is around 1.91 (sagged), btw. I assumed the chainstay shrinks 2-4mm under sag (was a guess, does it grow? If so the ratio would be higher, around 1.93)
I stay unmovable on only running stem lengths of 40mm-50mm. Trying to stay around 44mm-48mm.
No STFU chain silencer? bro. . .
Phenom review. Vital MTB needs to pay you for articles/video series.
Another bit..the 7mm of stem rise can very much contribute to front end 'vagueness' and/or twitchiness. Pretty much all direct mount dual crown stems (the fast guys at least) run 0*/0mm rise.
ps..29 front and rear? Crazy talk. You know better than anyone how important it is to mismatch the wheel sizes to create more stability as you arc turns. "widens" your bikes center of gravity stance into fast, rough corners.
Imagine this...would you more prefer a frame that was 6-8mm shorter reach paired to a stem that was +5mm longer? Running 40mm rise bars. Reach #'s would be near identical.
What would be lost, what would be gained?
I believe more maneuverability, same high speed stability and less necessity on absolutely having to slide that rear wheel into tight turns, as you highlighted (in those "oh shit" moments where youre not hitting absolutely *perfect* arcs into every last turn. . .the slightly shorter frame reach might help mitigate consistency issues while allowing you the same speed and control, if not greater)
Also on that EXT..it likes a softer spring and more focus on heavy damping and tuned hydraulic bottom out. You'll be best served to get Cody at EXT (or a competent suspension tuner shop) to get an *exact* hand-dyno spring rate measurement of your current coil...and base all tuning parameters around that. The listed spring weight #'s are off by 2-5%. You could really fine tune those harsh sag/off the top compressions you spoke on by running a 413lb spring vs a 422lb. That hand dyno test to confirm exact spring rate is crucial though. Don't let anyone downplay that.
You likely need a unique shim tune and more dynamic tuning efforts put toward the hydro bottom out adjustments. And whatever else Cody/EXT USA might suggest.
My thought for your 'perfect' setup: 10-13mm shorter frame reach, 46mm stem (0*/0mm rise, WRP will make it for ya), 40mm rise bars in 31.8mm (CZ40 Zink bars, those oval bars are bad science/poor performance--creates a vague flex zone that lessens predictability). If only there wasn't already 15mm+ of steer spacers otherwise I would say add a 3mm spacer. So while you're at it getting a new custom frame (ha), tell those folks at Nic. to add 5-10mm to the headtube length (would likely require a whole new frame jig to be made and a re-work of every pivot point).
fuck it, why not. Show these bois how it's done..Dakota Norton sure is (70mm bar rise, insane -- noticeably restricts and slows his corning ability stability at the benefit of ease of control in the steeps/rough/fast stuff).
also, sick Nissan.
You need to learn bike/body separation and more counter steering to get it to turn better.
Great review? Why not mullet for easier slide?
This bike is hard to set up mullet with the longer chainstay options. It keeps lowering the bb and slackening the head angle on an already very slack bike. I already have my biggest seat stay mutator in so I don’t think I’d be able to get the head angle and bb in check with the 27.5 rear
I put a 27.5 wheel in mine but didn't care for it (I'm 6'2).
Any issues with your trp breaks leaking?
No haven’t had any issues.
That stem!!!
What happened to your Banshee? Still riding it?
I owned that bike a few years ago
What are you replacing this with?
In the process of figuring that out. Something exciting for sure!
@briancahal hear me out, sb165 or nomad… opposite end of the spectrum but those bikes have a lot of traction on the front end. Also nomads have been on discount on jenson lately
Is the stories worth it?
Have you ridden the forbidden dreadnought v2 yet?
No, want to quite badly. Will hopefully be able to demo one at some point this summer.
What size would you recommend for a 6'3 guy?
You could ride the medium but probably the large if you would appreciate the handling characteristics I talk about in the video. I’m 6’1”. I have mine for sale if you’re interested it came back to be due to a shipping debacle
Definitely XL. I am 6'2 and downsized to an L (to be more all-round), but still love my XL (a pedable downhillbike). I built the XL up for my brother who is 6'5 and it's on the small side for him
I advise respectfully against Brians suggestion, do not go with a medium. You'll end up with stack issues unless you like it super low. The reach fools so many people, with the steep seat angle you sit normal on this bike, it doesn't feel long. I have both S14 and G1. I would not want either bike smaller than my Large. I'm 186cm/6'1"
@@dogdaysunrise1970absolutely agree.
Sad to say goodbye to the G-waggon.
Excited for the next bike.
@@briancahal True!
Sorry, I don't see any point of purposely braking traction on each corner rather than have a balanced non-extreme bike that can actually turn.