Thanks for the video. It’s a good lesson. I own the prior A-T model (AT-LP120-USB) and it had an annoying problem with cogging. I could hear the “bumping” sounds that the direct-drive motor was creating to maintain rotational velocity. I contacted A-T about the matter, but the reply that I received from Jim Schotts (A-T Service Manager in Stow, OH) was that this was a “professional” turntable intended for DJs. I quote this from my correspondence dated March 28, 2019: "... the LP120 is a DJ turntable with the addition of a high torque motor that has both reverse and pitch controls. The addition of those features make my comparison invalid. We have tested for this issue and found the noise you are describing to be nearly imperceptible on silent areas of a recording and not perceptible with any musical content playing." Judge for yourselves. This certainly suggests that A-T was aware of the cogging noise in March 2019. “Nearly imperceptible” still means it was perceptible. In the end, I retired the A-T turntable and bought a higher end belt-driven turntable from another company, but it lacked USB output. Not a problem for me, though, because I listen primarily to LPs. One day, though, a friend at work asked me if I could digitize one of his favorite LPs that had never been released digitally. So I resurrected my AT-LP120-USB for the effort. This time, however, I added A-T’s Disk Stabilizer (AT618A) to help flatten his LP. To my surprise, the additional weight stabilized the rotational speed, and the cogging sound vanished. Lesson learned! Even though I use a belt-driven turntable now, I still use my A-T Disc Stabilizer on it because it helps maintain the rotational momentum.
One added thing to consider is bearing wear. Your speed test doesn't indicate whether the spindle and thrust pad under the turntable will wear out by doubling or tripling the platter weight on a belt drive turntable, which may not be designed to handle the added weight. Many higher priced turntables provide a clamp instead of a weight because you can tighten a clamp down to reduce warps without affecting the bearing. Record clamps weigh a lot less than weights, and are adjustable.
But always check if your record is still flat or is flattened because of placing the record weight, so that you're actually improving things. It's not too uncommon that small warps actually become worse when a record weight is used, because the center is pushed down, the outer edge comes up. So using a record weight can go either way, depending on the record.
that shows a good clear answer to the question..actually i was wondering if someone could design a weight that would super speed up a turntable...hyper drive...but only when a certain artist is being played,in order to get the experience over as fast as possible.....nice video...ade
I would think it would depend on the turntable. I don't know if it would eventually wear out motor bearings or prematurely wear out belts. I think a Technics 1200 wouldn't be an issue at all or some really high end turntables, but others may wear out over time. I never had weights on a turntable myself, and I'm very happy without one. For me less is more in this case.
I've been using the larger Hudson weight on my AT LP 120x turntable when digitizing old 45s with excellent results. (I position the record with the insert, remove the insert and then carefully place the weight). Originally I was using a Hudson acrylic platter but I have since switched to a rubber and cork. The difference between the two is slight but I think the rubber and cork is a tad fuller and less harsh in some cases. Speed has not been an issue. I have not tried it upstairs on my higher end equipment. A good review!
I have the same turntable weight and I use on my records that are Dish warped. It really helps flatten them out and improve sound quality with tighter bass response.
On the strobe turntable direct drive. It did add another dot, but since there is no actual gage we cant determine how much its slowing down the platter. We must also consider there is no record being played which would add some grams to the equation.
A heavy platter will generally help minimise wow and flutter, due to the flywheel effect. Adding a record weight must surely enhance this property (weight x speed = momentum).
I have a 400g weight on a SL1700 and works fine. No tried it on my SL1210 due to be needed to be repaired/serviced. I have used it with a rubber mat and the same Hudson Hi-Fi acrylic mat. That mat had to be returned to covered in scratches and weird marks.
This will damage the motor you suppose to use a clamp on these type of turntables, turntables that are compatible with a stabilizing weight usually come with it and are 2k and up, I learned this from a pro-ject TT engineer and he said this is a number one beginners mistake.
clamps and weights are designed to correct faults within cheap flimsy turntables, if you have a good turntable don't use them, they can damage bearings, drive systems and belts.
I did not expect that. I always thought that these were only for 3000$++ audiophile turntables. But seeing you demonstrating it with a AT 120 is kind of reassuring. I might consider buying one. And about those acrylic platter mattes, I was wondering if those could also be used to test out the anti skate. Cause I’m considering buying off one of those vinyl records that don’t have grooves to fix the anti-skate on my cheap 1980s turntable that was donated to me. So I mean, if those acrylic platter mattes can fix my antiskate and serve as a platter matte, I will buy one for sure instead of those odd vinyl I talked about above. Also, I remember that in the video in which you reviewed on of the U-Turn turntables, you said that it was too bad that you had to put a record matte cause you liked the look of the acrylic platter. But that Hudson Hi-Fi is acrylic too. So what’s the difference?
4 года назад
I also want to know that and what's best for your turntable a cork mat or a leather one??
I have since realized that I don't need to put a platter mat on the acrylic. And yes the platter mats can help set anti-skate but beware it will scratch your platter mat.
4 года назад
@@Recordology so don't you have to put nothing on the uturn's acrylic platter?? And what's the best one... The cork mat or the leather mat??
They really WERE for people with expensive turntables for the simple fact that that is the market that usually will pay a lot of money for stuff that "might" make a difference in sound. The audio industry is rife with such snake oil products. It's just that we are in a world where you can now get one for a few bucks so "everybody" wants one. And a lot of people really "do" hear a difference, but that is also true of a LOT of expensive snake oil products where double blind testing proves they make no difference at all. Human interpretation of the stimuli coming from the ear drum is absurdly subjective.
Since the 80s I have been using weights to dampen any vibration of the loose record just resting on a turntable. Imagine a thin disc piece of plastic just loosly by your ear then run your nails across it it will vibrate through the whole piece of plastic. Hold the plastic firmly by your ear with your hand there will be no resonance by vibrations. Doing tests it still runs at a precise 33rpm. What I hear when playing a weighted record is the track & nothing else. It's fuller & precise & 40 years on I have a new set up, a rega 3 turntable & don't fear putting a weight on it as no fluctuation of speed or spindle exertion just like my previous turntable that lasted 25 years using one without problems. If you can't hear the difference fine but I can & I only spent about £60 on one. Let's be honest anybody with sense if they cared about hifi would not play a warped record on it. REPLACE WITH A NEW COPY.
I have some 60 yr old RCA living stereo records that are spotless tho sometime in there life got a bit warped, more than a little but not extereme, very playable, ah, no new copies! And the ones that were re-released don't sound nearly as good. Usually a clamp or weight on one side makes worse, other side better.
On a property designed belt drive the platter will rotate on its own due to inertia, and the only job the motor does is start it up and then keep the rotation speed constant. It's only the ultra-cheap plastic models where the motor does the rotation. But on a proper belt drive, having a good bearing and the platter mass concentrated at the edges is critical, and adding a weight will disrupt the balance of that engineering. The exception is turntables that are designed to be used with weights; otherwise I'm a firm believer in using things the way they were designed to be used. You, I or anybody else doesn't know better than designers with 50+ years of engineering experience.
I guess the damage these weights could inflict on the platter's bearings doesn't concern you? Well, it should. My friend repairs audio equipment for a living (30+ years), and the single biggest issue of failure for a turntable (besides pulled/damaged headshell/cart connections), is from worn bearings. Would you care to guess as to what the majority of them had in common? Yep, most of their owners used record weights. Record clamps are a far better option for warped vinyl.
None whatsoever. I don’t play records everyday, but I play them fairly often and I haven’t seen any damage yet. Have you heard of anyone’s spindle getting damaged by a clamp?
so far I have tested that I found at least on my TT's it does not change speed I use idler drive TT's when I got them I regreased everything and the bearing I cleaned out and regreased them so that when you spin platter it will keep going plus the platters are very heavy especially on the 1009sk dual it has a 5 pound platter also got one for my crosley c-10 I checked speed with and without weight I saw no change period this is a belt drive and on the dual 1237 belt drive it stays constant also on that theory that if you have a TT that spins faster and the claim that stylus on record will slow it down is sorry to say bunk it does not !!I got the 1 by one tt with biult in speakers that you reviewed a while back the tracking force was 3.5 grams speed was a little fast tried it out no it did slow it down had to reset speed my self JRo
Turn around, have someone play a part of an album with it on and with it not on, do this multiple times to take out the variable. If the results are the same as flipping a coin, then it doesn't matter and its just a band aid for other issues.
The problem is not that it could slow down your TT. The problem is that it could wear out the parts (bearings, etc.). If it slows it down, well, it's even worse than a crosley cruiser.
Everybody likes to buy bling for their hobby. Harley Davidson has made it a main part of their income. So yeah, These are cool because, well, they look cool. Do they make a difference? Depends on who you talk to. But they look cool. I tried a homemade one (small trailer hitch ball) and it made no difference on ANY of my tt's. These are fairly cheap and look cool, but I just couldn't justify it, considering the added weight on my spindle bearings and motor that bring it outside the specs it was designed for. Maybe a hollow gold cylinder with a balsa wood center would look cool. If I thought it really made a difference, I'd get a clamp rather than a weight. But they can be expensive.
On mine, it didn't seem to have an issue. It does take a little longer for the platter to come up to speed, but I didn't notice any real change. I think the additional weight may have helped stabilize the speed a little more, but I cannot be entirely certain of that. The reason you shouldn't use them on the briefcase players or all-in-one units is those plastic platter things usually lack a proper spindle bearing. Instead, they use a pair of nylon glides usually coated with lithium or even petroleum grease, and that setup doesn't like a lot of weight. General rule of thumb: If your turntable has a metal platter, you're usually good to go. If it has a plastic platter, you should probably not use a record weight - even if the turntable in question is known to have actual roller or ball bearings.
My records play in a slower tempo when I pull down the cover and it add a small amount of weight the player, I wonder if it will damage it in the long run, I have an audio technica lp60xbt
I worried about my Crosley C6 when I use the heavier rubber mat as to will it damage the motor. Now I have no doubt that it will not harm it. Am I right? I know that the Crosley gets some bad reviews but it sounds and works as well as my Miracord!
A 1 pound weight has got to make it work quite a bit harder, than it does for a single platter. Someone could hand me a 1 pound weight, when I'm running, and I would barely have to slow down. But man, would I feel that extra pound, down the road apiece. It's only common sense.
My brand new AT LP120X seems to play a bit slow to my ears, mostly on the first track. I'm wondering that if the record fits loosley on the spindle, it might be slipping on the stock felt mat. Would a clamp help? What's a good cheap one?
The performance gains are so marginal why would you risk your TT bearing by using one of these(especially belt drive units) I dread to think how many TT bearings are slowly but surely being ruined by the use of these weights.
The one thing I'm having trouble with is that my red dots shift. Not a huge amount but it never is fully stationary. I've the quartz on. What could be causing this?
How strobe discs work is that the speed of the dots is synchronized with the frequency of your AC power line, which, in the USA, is 60 Hz (cycles per second) or in Europe 50 Hz. If your power line frequency drifts but a hair, your strobe dots will drift. I’m inclined to think your turntable is more accurate than the frequency of your incoming AC power 🎉 being that it is probably synchronized with a quartz reference internally.
A lot of people ask this… I would definitely recommend against doing this on the lp60. There would be no benefit on that device. The mass inertia of the aluminum platter is plenty for it.
Does it damage your table? In short?! If you have a cheap little table with a small motor. Possible, it always is a risk..but it’s virtually none existing. A good old vintage table? Or a good build new table ?! They will have 0 issues with that weight. I don’t care what fantasy story some of you guys try to sell. People tend to forget, that a electric motor has superior torque capabilities. Also most good tables are very overbuild on that area. It’s not a problem, if you have Quartz lock , which I do ?! Never been a problem.. The biggest problem is misinformed audiophiles that just “assume” it’s bad
No, the engineers at Linn, who design and upgrade (since its introduction in 1973) the iconic LP-12 turntable know, from a half century of experience, that a record weight will not only mess up the tuned suspension, but will seriously increase the wear of the bearing where the ball hits the thrust plate. That actual point of contact is infinitesimally small and the increase in pressure per area of contact at that point is increased by a huge margin when using a record weight, resulting in increased wear, friction, and noise over time.
I asked the same question on hudson hifi RUclips page, they said it would be ok on the at-lp60x, now I'm conflicted because that's the player I have :-/
I think that was to do with records skipping . A lot of record players had no facility to adjust tracking force of needle, so the extra weight of the nickel just made sure the needle didn't skip. Downside,probable too much weight bearing down on the needle.
High potential for snake oil capitalising on the rich who have no other life-goals than to liquidate their cash. Is there no mention of the precision needed for the spindle hole diameter and centre to be 101% accurate? Any off-centre placement of the weight or clamp will cause issues in the balanced spinning of the platter and record. Here's a cheap hack: get a hockey puck!! Find the centre & drill a hole with your friend's drill press. The dense rubber is not magnetic or statically charged, it bears some weight that can be shaved with a file, it can have the crest of your favourite hockey team, it costs $2 CAD at your local sports store.
Thanks for the video. It’s a good lesson.
I own the prior A-T model (AT-LP120-USB) and it had an annoying problem with cogging. I could hear the “bumping” sounds that the direct-drive motor was creating to maintain rotational velocity. I contacted A-T about the matter, but the reply that I received from Jim Schotts (A-T Service Manager in Stow, OH) was that this was a “professional” turntable intended for DJs. I quote this from my correspondence dated March 28, 2019:
"... the LP120 is a DJ turntable with the addition of a high torque motor that has both reverse and pitch controls. The addition of those features make my comparison invalid. We have tested for this issue and found the noise you are describing to be nearly imperceptible on silent areas of a recording and not perceptible with any musical content playing."
Judge for yourselves. This certainly suggests that A-T was aware of the cogging noise in March 2019. “Nearly imperceptible” still means it was perceptible. In the end, I retired the A-T turntable and bought a higher end belt-driven turntable from another company, but it lacked USB output. Not a problem for me, though, because I listen primarily to LPs.
One day, though, a friend at work asked me if I could digitize one of his favorite LPs that had never been released digitally. So I resurrected my AT-LP120-USB for the effort. This time, however, I added A-T’s Disk Stabilizer (AT618A) to help flatten his LP. To my surprise, the additional weight stabilized the rotational speed, and the cogging sound vanished. Lesson learned!
Even though I use a belt-driven turntable now, I still use my A-T Disc Stabilizer on it because it helps maintain the rotational momentum.
One added thing to consider is bearing wear. Your speed test doesn't indicate whether the spindle and thrust pad under the turntable will wear out by doubling or tripling the platter weight on a belt drive turntable, which may not be designed to handle the added weight. Many higher priced turntables provide a clamp instead of a weight because you can tighten a clamp down to reduce warps without affecting the bearing. Record clamps weigh a lot less than weights, and are adjustable.
Please.
But always check if your record is still flat or is flattened because of placing the record weight, so that you're actually improving things.
It's not too uncommon that small warps actually become worse when a record weight is used, because the center is pushed down, the outer edge comes up.
So using a record weight can go either way, depending on the record.
Yes, that's why I prefer a record clamp instead. You can apply a little to a lot of clamping force, just enough to make the disc lie flatter
that shows a good clear answer to the question..actually i was wondering if someone could design a weight that would super speed up a turntable...hyper drive...but only when a certain artist is being played,in order to get the experience over as fast as possible.....nice video...ade
I would think it would depend on the turntable. I don't know if it would eventually wear out motor bearings or prematurely wear out belts. I think a Technics 1200 wouldn't be an issue at all or some really high end turntables, but others may wear out over time. I never had weights on a turntable myself, and I'm very happy without one. For me less is more in this case.
I've been using the larger Hudson weight on my AT LP 120x turntable when digitizing old 45s with excellent results. (I position the record with the insert, remove the insert and then carefully place the weight). Originally I was using a Hudson acrylic platter but I have since switched to a rubber and cork. The difference between the two is slight but I think the rubber and cork is a tad fuller and less harsh in some cases. Speed has not been an issue. I have not tried it upstairs on my higher end equipment. A good review!
Do Hudson make a weight with an insert for large hole 45s? If so, can you post the model name/reference, please?
I have the same turntable weight and I use on my records that are Dish warped. It really helps flatten them out and improve sound quality with tighter bass response.
Good to know!
@@Recordology That's why you use a weight, nothing else.
There should be a clear glass record weight since I like to look at the spinning record label when the music plays.
That would be cool....
On the strobe turntable direct drive. It did add another dot, but since there is no actual gage we cant determine how much its slowing down the platter. We must also consider there is no record being played which would add some grams to the equation.
The Fluance record weight is 28 ounces. Their website says it is compatible with all of their turntables. I use it on my RT85 and it is rock steady.
A heavy platter will generally help minimise wow and flutter, due to the flywheel effect. Adding a record weight must surely enhance this property (weight x speed = momentum).
A weight adds more mass in the center rather than the edges, though.
I have a 400g weight on a SL1700 and works fine. No tried it on my SL1210 due to be needed to be repaired/serviced. I have used it with a rubber mat and the same Hudson Hi-Fi acrylic mat. That mat had to be returned to covered in scratches and weird marks.
This will damage the motor you suppose to use a clamp on these type of turntables, turntables that are compatible with a stabilizing weight usually come with it and are 2k and up, I learned this from a pro-ject TT engineer and he said this is a number one beginners mistake.
The only thing I worry about is will the use of a weight slow down the turntable over time? Quicker than normal use of the turntable?
I love my record weight. I have a red metal one. Really nice!
i use a weight with my PLL Servo motor, it actually helps maintain an almost perfect speed with servos.
You can always re lubricate with snake oil.
clamps and weights are designed to correct faults within cheap flimsy turntables, if you have a good turntable don't use them, they can damage bearings, drive systems and belts.
Interesting comparison. I wish you had conducted the experiment with music playing. That would be the REAL test.
Placebo. No change in sound. Only stress for the bearing and motor. Turntables are not designed for this.
I did not expect that. I always thought that these were only for 3000$++ audiophile turntables. But seeing you demonstrating it with a AT 120 is kind of reassuring. I might consider buying one. And about those acrylic platter mattes, I was wondering if those could also be used to test out the anti skate. Cause I’m considering buying off one of those vinyl records that don’t have grooves to fix the anti-skate on my cheap 1980s turntable that was donated to me. So I mean, if those acrylic platter mattes can fix my antiskate and serve as a platter matte, I will buy one for sure instead of those odd vinyl I talked about above. Also, I remember that in the video in which you reviewed on of the U-Turn turntables, you said that it was too bad that you had to put a record matte cause you liked the look of the acrylic platter. But that Hudson Hi-Fi is acrylic too. So what’s the difference?
I also want to know that and what's best for your turntable a cork mat or a leather one??
I have since realized that I don't need to put a platter mat on the acrylic. And yes the platter mats can help set anti-skate but beware it will scratch your platter mat.
@@Recordology so don't you have to put nothing on the uturn's acrylic platter?? And what's the best one... The cork mat or the leather mat??
Bryan Peña many claim Cork is superior
They really WERE for people with expensive turntables for the simple fact that that is the market that usually will pay a lot of money for stuff that "might" make a difference in sound. The audio industry is rife with such snake oil products. It's just that we are in a world where you can now get one for a few bucks so "everybody" wants one. And a lot of people really "do" hear a difference, but that is also true of a LOT of expensive snake oil products where double blind testing proves they make no difference at all. Human interpretation of the stimuli coming from the ear drum is absurdly subjective.
If you have a direct drive turntable you'll know if it runs slower. The rubber crap slips anyway.
Since the 80s I have been using weights to dampen any vibration of the loose record just resting on a turntable. Imagine a thin disc piece of plastic just loosly by your ear then run your nails across it it will vibrate through the whole piece of plastic. Hold the plastic firmly by your ear with your hand there will be no resonance by vibrations. Doing tests it still runs at a precise 33rpm. What I hear when playing a weighted record is the track & nothing else. It's fuller & precise & 40 years on I have a new set up, a rega 3 turntable & don't fear putting a weight on it as no fluctuation of speed or spindle exertion just like my previous turntable that lasted 25 years using one without problems. If you can't hear the difference fine but I can & I only spent about £60 on one. Let's be honest anybody with sense if they cared about hifi would not play a warped record on it. REPLACE WITH A NEW COPY.
I have some 60 yr old RCA living stereo records that are spotless tho sometime in there life got a bit warped, more than a little but not extereme, very playable, ah, no new copies! And the ones that were re-released don't sound nearly as good. Usually a clamp or weight on one side makes worse, other side better.
On a property designed belt drive the platter will rotate on its own due to inertia, and the only job the motor does is start it up and then keep the rotation speed constant. It's only the ultra-cheap plastic models where the motor does the rotation. But on a proper belt drive, having a good bearing and the platter mass concentrated at the edges is critical, and adding a weight will disrupt the balance of that engineering. The exception is turntables that are designed to be used with weights; otherwise I'm a firm believer in using things the way they were designed to be used. You, I or anybody else doesn't know better than designers with 50+ years of engineering experience.
my local dealer advised me strongly against a weight or clamp for my sl1210 due to added preassure to the motor
The best way to improve the sound of your TT is to invest in a better cartridge.
I guess the damage these weights could inflict on the platter's bearings doesn't concern you? Well, it should. My friend repairs audio equipment for a living (30+ years), and the single biggest issue of failure for a turntable (besides pulled/damaged headshell/cart connections), is from worn bearings. Would you care to guess as to what the majority of them had in common? Yep, most of their owners used record weights. Record clamps are a far better option for warped vinyl.
I use a clamp, and it does the same thing as a weight. That’s another option to choose from.
Have you ever had any spindle damage from a clamp?
None whatsoever.
I don’t play records everyday, but I play them fairly often and I haven’t seen any damage yet.
Have you heard of anyone’s spindle getting damaged by a clamp?
so far I have tested that I found at least on my TT's it does not change speed I use idler drive TT's when I got them I regreased everything and the bearing I cleaned out and regreased them so that when you spin platter it will keep going plus the platters are very heavy especially on the 1009sk dual it has a 5 pound platter also got one for my crosley c-10 I checked speed with and without weight I saw no change period this is a belt drive and on the dual 1237 belt drive it stays constant also on that theory that if you have a TT that spins faster and the claim that stylus on record will slow it down is sorry to say bunk it does not !!I got the 1 by one tt with biult in speakers that you reviewed a while back the tracking force was 3.5 grams speed was a little fast tried it out no it did slow it down had to reset speed my self JRo
Turn around, have someone play a part of an album with it on and with it not on, do this multiple times to take out the variable. If the results are the same as flipping a coin, then it doesn't matter and its just a band aid for other issues.
What’s the weight and size? .5 pounds 1pound?
The problem is not that it could slow down your TT. The problem is that it could wear out the parts (bearings, etc.). If it slows it down, well, it's even worse than a crosley cruiser.
The problem is not if it slows down the speed. It can be too heavy for most (90%) of the turntable spindles.
the weight surely stress the motor!
Everybody likes to buy bling for their hobby. Harley Davidson has made it a main part of their income. So yeah, These are cool because, well, they look cool. Do they make a difference? Depends on who you talk to. But they look cool. I tried a homemade one (small trailer hitch ball) and it made no difference on ANY of my tt's. These are fairly cheap and look cool, but I just couldn't justify it, considering the added weight on my spindle bearings and motor that bring it outside the specs it was designed for. Maybe a hollow gold cylinder with a balsa wood center would look cool.
If I thought it really made a difference, I'd get a clamp rather than a weight. But they can be expensive.
What about a spring loaded table?
What happens on a mid-range unit like an LP60?
Should be fine still
On mine, it didn't seem to have an issue. It does take a little longer for the platter to come up to speed, but I didn't notice any real change. I think the additional weight may have helped stabilize the speed a little more, but I cannot be entirely certain of that.
The reason you shouldn't use them on the briefcase players or all-in-one units is those plastic platter things usually lack a proper spindle bearing. Instead, they use a pair of nylon glides usually coated with lithium or even petroleum grease, and that setup doesn't like a lot of weight.
General rule of thumb: If your turntable has a metal platter, you're usually good to go. If it has a plastic platter, you should probably not use a record weight - even if the turntable in question is known to have actual roller or ball bearings.
My records play in a slower tempo when I pull down the cover and it add a small amount of weight the player, I wonder if it will damage it in the long run, I have an audio technica lp60xbt
I worried about my Crosley C6 when I use the heavier rubber mat as to will it damage the motor. Now I have no doubt that it will not harm it. Am I right? I know that the Crosley gets some bad reviews but it sounds and works as well as my Miracord!
Ignore the people that are ignorant to these nice turntables… And you are correct the rubber matt will do no harm
A 1 pound weight has got to make it work quite a bit harder, than it does for a single platter.
Someone could hand me a 1 pound weight, when I'm running, and I would barely have to slow down. But man, would I feel that extra pound, down the road apiece.
It's only common sense.
I'm not saying it's not a useful item.
I have used them.
My brand new AT LP120X seems to play a bit slow to my ears, mostly on the first track. I'm wondering that if the record fits loosley on the spindle, it might be slipping on the stock felt mat. Would a clamp help? What's a good cheap one?
Would you recommend it on a Pioneer PLX 500? If the answer is yes, BigBen or SmallBen? Thanks.
Late to the party. Do record weights do much for 78s? I think I've seen that there are some, but haven't seen anyone saying they use them.
I wouldn’t think they would do anything to help a 78
My turntable spins slightly fast with rotations so that songs go up a semi tone. Would this fix that, or do I need to replace the belt?
There should be a pot to adjust the speed underneath the turntable depending on the mode.
The performance gains are so marginal why would you risk your TT bearing by using one of these(especially belt drive units) I dread to think how many TT bearings are slowly but surely being ruined by the use of these weights.
Wouldn't you think the motor will have to work harder to keep speed. More stress on the motor.
No it's minimum
The one thing I'm having trouble with is that my red dots shift. Not a huge amount but it never is fully stationary. I've the quartz on. What could be causing this?
How strobe discs work is that the speed of the dots is synchronized with the frequency of your AC power line, which, in the USA, is 60 Hz (cycles per second) or in Europe 50 Hz. If your power line frequency drifts but a hair, your strobe dots will drift. I’m inclined to think your turntable is more accurate than the frequency of your incoming AC power 🎉 being that it is probably synchronized with a quartz reference internally.
Can that be used with the AT LP60X turntable player? can't drive a motor or belt!
A lot of people ask this… I would definitely recommend against doing this on the lp60. There would be no benefit on that device. The mass inertia of the aluminum platter is plenty for it.
@@Recordology How much weight do you need to use for the lp60?
Does it damage your table? In short?! If you have a cheap little table with a small motor. Possible, it always is a risk..but it’s virtually none existing.
A good old vintage table? Or a good build new table ?! They will have 0 issues with that weight. I don’t care what fantasy story some of you guys try to sell. People tend to forget, that a electric motor has superior torque capabilities.
Also most good tables are very overbuild on that area. It’s not a problem, if you have Quartz lock , which I do ?! Never been a problem..
The biggest problem is misinformed audiophiles that just “assume” it’s bad
No, the engineers at Linn, who design and upgrade (since its introduction in 1973) the iconic LP-12 turntable know, from a half century of experience, that a record weight will not only mess up the tuned suspension, but will seriously increase the wear of the bearing where the ball hits the thrust plate. That actual point of contact is infinitesimally small and the increase in pressure per area of contact at that point is increased by a huge margin when using a record weight, resulting in increased wear, friction, and noise over time.
Whats the maker of the black turntable?
Audio-Technica
Is it ok to use it on an Audio Technica lp60x/lp60xusb?
I wouldn't recommend it...
Record-ology appreciate your insight!
I asked the same question on hudson hifi RUclips page, they said it would be ok on the at-lp60x, now I'm conflicted because that's the player I have :-/
Back in the day we taped a nickel on top of the stylus. 😏
I think that was to do with records skipping . A lot of record players had no facility to adjust tracking force of needle, so the extra weight of the nickel just made sure the needle didn't skip. Downside,probable too much weight bearing down on the needle.
High potential for snake oil capitalising on the rich who have no other life-goals than to liquidate their cash.
Is there no mention of the precision needed for the spindle hole diameter and centre to be 101% accurate? Any off-centre placement of the weight or clamp will cause issues in the balanced spinning of the platter and record.
Here's a cheap hack: get a hockey puck!! Find the centre & drill a hole with your friend's drill press. The dense rubber is not magnetic or statically charged, it bears some weight that can be shaved with a file, it can have the crest of your favourite hockey team, it costs $2 CAD at your local sports store.
Will this work fine with a audio technica lp60??
I think so but I would avoid it if possible
@Record-ology well I saw another one of your videos using one with the lp60 the same model I have with the aluminum platter.
Why do people buy this garbage. Invest in a flattener. They are awesome. You won't need weights/clamps.
This year's snake oil. Like CBD marketing. Just a total con.