Hey man, thanks for checking out this video, means a lot to me, knowing that there are fellow viewers who appreciate these long running vintage Nitro. Hard to believe they are still relatively unchanged in over 20 years more or less. Nitro for life. See you on the next one.
I just love me a nitro Rustler ! I have 2 of them , one converted to electric , the other into a 2 speed .26 Picco max nitro powered Rustler ! Neither one has been run in years. That will change this spring. Currently working on 2 Revos. My original Revo 3.3 , '5309 model' , and a newer version of a Revo. 'I'm not sure what version it is .' The 5309 will get a Picco .26 max , One of my favorite big blocks and the other one gets an LRP .32 power plant ! YOU kicked me in the ass and I went into the nitro zone again !!! 'results pending this spring'
Welcome back to the NitroZone my dude!! I've been there since around the 2000's myself, and never leaving. Stuck forever, lol! Lets keep making nitro great!
Great video. I have a brand new one sitting on the shelf from 2019. I had the very first Nitro Hawk when they came out. Iran it everyday. I even did the O.S. engine swap in it. It was a great truck.
thanks for watching bro! Really appreciate that! Did you say NITRO HAWK!! oh yes!!! thats the only traxxas nitro I have never had on this channel, time to look for one. Cant believe this nitro rustler name has been around since almost the time of the first nitro hawk, right!
@@hybrid32494 Yes. I think the Nitro Hawk was 91 or 92 maybe. It was so much fun. I still had the box up until about 2013. I wound up just recycling it. You need to find one and get it on the channel. I think I have some pictures somewhere of mine.
I also have had so many problems with the idle screw and the idle gap, what solved it was adjusting and experimenting with the throttle linkage and the servo horn itself. Also it helps if you have endpoints on your radio for the servo. Turn the idle screw all the way in to start and then adjust it from there. It sucks because when it’s all the way out like that the idle screw us basically unusable
What’s up bro thanks for checking out this video. Yes this was truly the X-Files of RC almost everything was incorrectly done and the piston was completely in the wrong position. Makes sense why? The owner said it never ran. Lol.
Thanks dude! I figured why not combine the sickening xfiles theme from the 90s wity the longest running name in our hobby that you can still buy brand new!! Great combo, like a burger with cheese 🤣🤣👍🏻👍🏻
hey my dude! Yes, this one is ready for a good road test, took a while to get this one in drivable shape. Still dealing with poor shock quality, the only good option is to go back to stock.
The FG Marder (1/6 scale, zenoah engine, gas & … one speed baby 🤣) is still being sold by the company. It was initially launched 30 years ago ! And they did not really enhance it during this period. Probably a record too 😁⛽️⛽️👍. Thanks for this nice video on the Rustler 👍👍⛽️⛽️. 👊👊
Hey man, I must admit the X-Files tune as sum of the best music ever made, and perfect for some sickeningly, weird, nitro engine problems, like the one this model had.
Hey my dude! yes, the 2.5 engine in this model is terrific! The way I got it was with the 3.3, thats why it's still in there you know. Im a big supporter of keeping things stock to be honest with you.
FYI the battery from hell is a bit rare but here's the explanation - It happens if one cell is somehow "weaker" and gets charged by the other cells. Alkaline and other batteries can switch polarity in a series configuration. The battery doesnt actually have a negative charge, the positive terminal became the negative end and will meter -V when tested normally. So because there were multiple batteries in series there in the car, this happened to this particular battery.
Hey man, thank you for that great explanation on the battery from hell. After making this video, I did some further research and it looks like you are correct. The most logical explanation is the battery changed the poles inside itself somehow. The next mystery is why the carb on a 3.3 was hitting the fuel tank so easily. After all the 2.5 and 3.3 have a literally the same exact exterior dimensions other than the cooling head.
Hey man, thanks for checking out this video. Yes, the dynamite 19 is probably the best direct fit engine choice for one of these models. You are totally correct with that engine choice bro.
Hey man, thanks for checking out this video. I’m glad you enjoyed the content. This was for sure one of the worst ones I’ve ever gotten frankly I ran into every single problem possible but at the end of the day you just cannot kill a Nitro and this is still more proof of that being true. These models are very good to buy for cheap because there are a ton of parts for them and usually it doesn’t take much to make it drivable.
My high speed needle barrel is a lot closer to the engine. So much so the fuel line almost touched the engine. Mabey try moving it like mine is. Mines close to the tank yes but it does have enough room to open fully as it should without touching 👍
Hey dude, thank you for watching and I appreciate your comment. I will admit the set up on this model is very weird, there seems to be no space for the 3.3 which is weird because it’s exactly the same same size and spec as the 2.5 I should not have had to run into that problem. But I have made it work and it has been fine since.
@@hybrid32494 Ohh I never said this one important part that’s different. My Rustlers got the 2.5 engine with the 3.3 crank and the jato pipe. That may be why mine fits slightly different and has more room It rips just like a 3.3 though there’s almost no difference if you can believe that. I thought at first it was going to be minimal but the 2.5 just turned into an absolute power house with the 3.3 crank in it and the jato pipe 👊😎
Hey dude, thanks for checking out this video, I would recommend you see if your carb can be moved a little bit, so it clears the fuel tank, a little better, in my case I tried everything, and it still was completely hitting the side of the tank.
Another idea is to put the throttle linkage on a different position on the throttle servo horn, which will reduce the travel needed to open the carb, then you could just adjust your throttle, trim to compensate, and it really shouldn’t move as much and hit the fuel tank.
@@hybrid32494 oh that’s smart, I’ll check it out, thank you, I’m just glad I can finally fire my rustler and Revo tomorrow after a month of sitting because of the cold and snow
Also, I was gonna record a video tomorrow with the nitro rustler, it’s a test video to see how it handles with drag slicks on all 4 wheels, I’ll use the widescreen recording this time, could I send it to you if it’s good enough?
@@gavinwilliams4513 yes bro. You def could. Ill take a look at it and try to incorporate ur prior messages in a future vidro. Thanks man for keeping nitros great!
Hi Hybrid. As you know well, restoring Nitros can expose a lot of crazy issues. LoL - I am wondering if the Low speed needle is turned in too much and is not allowing the carb barrel to close all the way?? Not sure but, is just a thought. Other than that, you will need to take it apart to find out. Let us know if you find out more. - Thanks for the vid 🩷
I got some good for you bro! It's going down tonight!! It's nothing nitro in for final repairs, going to have to make things tonight it looks like. My 4-tec repair parts are delayed in shipping.
i have seen them shocks before. i think they are Amazon/Ebay specials. and if the oil dont leak out in the packaging by the time you get them in the mail they leak out after your first run. they are junk shocks but people keep buying them. they are a down grade shock not an upgrade shock haha.
Hey man, thanks for checking out this video and I totally agree with your comment. I never spend money on aftermarket shocks because as you already know, it is guaranteed to be significantly worse than the stock factory shocks ever work. Plus likely they will leak and you will just spend money refilling them with expensive shock oil.
You could run a smaller spur gear to give more room between the gear and air filter elbow. The 3.3 will be slightly lower revving than the 2.5 that the rustler was designed for so that will help get top end speed back. You might also want to go up a tooth or two from stock on the clutch bell. I always laughed when I saw guys replacing their traxxas motor with the O.S. 21TM and then speed running the stock gear ratio and complaining that the O.S. was a 'slower' motor than a 2.5 😂 bigger motor more torque less rpm = gear accordingly. Love the 'X-files' edit! Made me laugh!
Hey man, thank you for that awesome advice. It makes perfect sense. If I ever strip the spur gear, I’ll be sure to put in a smaller one. You are totally correct on that part. Also, I am a big proponent of small block engines and honestly I love the higher RPM compared to the displacement, and I am totally on your side. There is nothing wrong with a nice high revving 2.5.
hey dude! I was thinking that also, but the question is how can that actually be if the 2.5 and the 3.3 use the same carbs and same mounting locations. The only thing larger on the 3.3 is the cooling head, you know Weird case here, I know.
@@hybrid32494 ill bet traxxas made some varriants threw new releases and didnt tell, maybe its off a 4tec traxxas on road chassis, the gas tank is correct.
Very nice in-depth review on the Rustler, so the obvious is that the Traxxas carbs want to always idle at high RPM unless you bring the engine first up to temp and then after tuning the HSN you start leaning the LSN and lowering the idle gap. The best result would be a 2 second carb fuel tube pinch not more. As for the idle screw, it is best recommended that the brakes are on when tuning the idle screw gap. It seems to me that the barrel is not in the correct position with the idle screw. The best tuning in a Traxxas 3.3 or 2.5 is changing the carb to the OS 11K
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Love the Nitro Rustler. I've had one since they came out. Stampede also.
Hey man, thanks for checking out this video, means a lot to me, knowing that there are fellow viewers who appreciate these long running vintage Nitro. Hard to believe they are still relatively unchanged in over 20 years more or less. Nitro for life. See you on the next one.
@@hybrid32494 O yeah.
Dude I gotta say as someone who did this when I was younger and getting back into I love your vids man🔒🤘
I just love me a nitro Rustler !
I have 2 of them , one converted to electric , the other into a 2 speed .26 Picco max nitro powered Rustler !
Neither one has been run in years.
That will change this spring. Currently working on 2 Revos. My original Revo 3.3 , '5309 model' , and a newer version of a Revo.
'I'm not sure what version it is .'
The 5309 will get a Picco .26 max , One of my favorite big blocks and the other one gets an LRP .32 power plant !
YOU kicked me in the ass and I went into the nitro zone again !!! 'results pending this spring'
Welcome back to the NitroZone my dude!! I've been there since around the 2000's myself, and never leaving. Stuck forever, lol! Lets keep making nitro great!
@@hybrid32494
Electric still kicks nitros ass in a drag race. 'unlesss the nitro has a ton of internal mods'.
But I do love my Rustlers!
Great video. I have a brand new one sitting on the shelf from 2019. I had the very first Nitro Hawk when they came out. Iran it everyday. I even did the O.S. engine swap in it. It was a great truck.
thanks for watching bro! Really appreciate that! Did you say NITRO HAWK!! oh yes!!! thats the only traxxas nitro I have never had on this channel, time to look for one. Cant believe this nitro rustler name has been around since almost the time of the first nitro hawk, right!
@@hybrid32494 Yes. I think the Nitro Hawk was 91 or 92 maybe. It was so much fun. I still had the box up until about 2013. I wound up just recycling it. You need to find one and get it on the channel. I think I have some pictures somewhere of mine.
I also have had so many problems with the idle screw and the idle gap, what solved it was adjusting and experimenting with the throttle linkage and the servo horn itself. Also it helps if you have endpoints on your radio for the servo. Turn the idle screw all the way in to start and then adjust it from there. It sucks because when it’s all the way out like that the idle screw us basically unusable
One of the best Traxxas RCs👍Sickening Nitro Files™️
What’s up bro thanks for checking out this video. Yes this was truly the X-Files of RC almost everything was incorrectly done and the piston was completely in the wrong position. Makes sense why? The owner said it never ran. Lol.
It’s a good day when hybrid post. Sickening
Whats up bro! Thanks man! This is a Flashback Thursday style video, figured the nitro rustler needs some more publicity!
Beautiful video, Xfiles jam absolutely sickening 🍄
Thanks dude! I figured why not combine the sickening xfiles theme from the 90s wity the longest running name in our hobby that you can still buy brand new!! Great combo, like a burger with cheese 🤣🤣👍🏻👍🏻
Great video! Nice shirt!
Best shirt ever! Designed by your terrific wife! Love that shirt!
cool rc and great info on it
Thank u my dude!
I can't wait to see it run
hey my dude! Yes, this one is ready for a good road test, took a while to get this one in drivable shape. Still dealing with poor shock quality, the only good option is to go back to stock.
The FG Marder (1/6 scale, zenoah engine, gas & … one speed baby 🤣) is still being sold by the company. It was initially launched 30 years ago ! And they did not really enhance it during this period. Probably a record too 😁⛽️⛽️👍. Thanks for this nice video on the Rustler 👍👍⛽️⛽️. 👊👊
Loving the X-FILES music hah
Hey man, I must admit the X-Files tune as sum of the best music ever made, and perfect for some sickeningly, weird, nitro engine problems, like the one this model had.
Love my Rustler!!! Super reliable and the 2.5 is bulletproof. (3.3 sucks!!)
Hey my dude! yes, the 2.5 engine in this model is terrific! The way I got it was with the 3.3, thats why it's still in there you know. Im a big supporter of keeping things stock to be honest with you.
FYI the battery from hell is a bit rare but here's the explanation - It happens if one cell is somehow "weaker" and gets charged by the other cells. Alkaline and other batteries can switch polarity in a series configuration. The battery doesnt actually have a negative charge, the positive terminal became the negative end and will meter -V when tested normally. So because there were multiple batteries in series there in the car, this happened to this particular battery.
Hey man, thank you for that great explanation on the battery from hell. After making this video, I did some further research and it looks like you are correct. The most logical explanation is the battery changed the poles inside itself somehow. The next mystery is why the carb on a 3.3 was hitting the fuel tank so easily. After all the 2.5 and 3.3 have a literally the same exact exterior dimensions other than the cooling head.
I have a dynamite .19 in mine, it's nutty
Hey man, thanks for checking out this video. Yes, the dynamite 19 is probably the best direct fit engine choice for one of these models. You are totally correct with that engine choice bro.
Classic rustler. Definitely lookes great hybrid. Nice editing too. NWO
Thank man!! X-Files bro!!
The production on this video is top notch. 2 Chinese Springs baby is no bueno. Great Video Hybrid. And that's why I don't buy used Nitro's.
Hey man, thanks for checking out this video. I’m glad you enjoyed the content. This was for sure one of the worst ones I’ve ever gotten frankly I ran into every single problem possible but at the end of the day you just cannot kill a Nitro and this is still more proof of that being true. These models are very good to buy for cheap because there are a ton of parts for them and usually it doesn’t take much to make it drivable.
@@hybrid32494 Sir... as usual...sickening. :)
now see thats what a rustler is supposed to sound like
Yup bro!! Rich and loud and ethical!!
The throttle linkage on my Rustlers has a bend in it,like 75 deg.Its not straight like your linkage
My high speed needle barrel is a lot closer to the engine. So much so the fuel line almost touched the engine. Mabey try moving it like mine is.
Mines close to the tank yes but it does have enough room to open fully as it should without touching 👍
Hey dude, thank you for watching and I appreciate your comment. I will admit the set up on this model is very weird, there seems to be no space for the 3.3 which is weird because it’s exactly the same same size and spec as the 2.5 I should not have had to run into that problem. But I have made it work and it has been fine since.
@@hybrid32494
Ohh I never said this one important part that’s different.
My Rustlers got the 2.5 engine with the 3.3 crank and the jato pipe.
That may be why mine fits slightly different and has more room
It rips just like a 3.3 though there’s almost no difference if you can believe that.
I thought at first it was going to be minimal but the 2.5 just turned into an absolute power house with the 3.3 crank in it and the jato pipe 👊😎
I had a big problem also with my carb getting stuck on the lip of the fuel tank, this occurred slowly after break in, idk why.
Hey dude, thanks for checking out this video, I would recommend you see if your carb can be moved a little bit, so it clears the fuel tank, a little better, in my case I tried everything, and it still was completely hitting the side of the tank.
Another idea is to put the throttle linkage on a different position on the throttle servo horn, which will reduce the travel needed to open the carb, then you could just adjust your throttle, trim to compensate, and it really shouldn’t move as much and hit the fuel tank.
@@hybrid32494 oh that’s smart, I’ll check it out, thank you, I’m just glad I can finally fire my rustler and Revo tomorrow after a month of sitting because of the cold and snow
Also, I was gonna record a video tomorrow with the nitro rustler, it’s a test video to see how it handles with drag slicks on all 4 wheels, I’ll use the widescreen recording this time, could I send it to you if it’s good enough?
@@gavinwilliams4513 yes bro. You def could. Ill take a look at it and try to incorporate ur prior messages in a future vidro. Thanks man for keeping nitros great!
Hi Hybrid. As you know well, restoring Nitros can expose a lot of crazy issues. LoL
- I am wondering if the Low speed needle is turned in too much and is not allowing the carb barrel to close all the way?? Not sure but, is just a thought. Other than that, you will need to take it apart to find out. Let us know if you find out more.
- Thanks for the vid 🩷
Nitro gang🤟
We need Friday night live!
I got some good for you bro! It's going down tonight!! It's nothing nitro in for final repairs, going to have to make things tonight it looks like. My 4-tec repair parts are delayed in shipping.
@@hybrid32494 👍🏼
What shocks are you running?
i have seen them shocks before. i think they are Amazon/Ebay specials. and if the oil dont leak out in the packaging by the time you get them in the mail they leak out after your first run. they are junk shocks but people keep buying them. they are a down grade shock not an upgrade shock haha.
Hey man, thanks for checking out this video and I totally agree with your comment. I never spend money on aftermarket shocks because as you already know, it is guaranteed to be significantly worse than the stock factory shocks ever work. Plus likely they will leak and you will just spend money refilling them with expensive shock oil.
You could run a smaller spur gear to give more room between the gear and air filter elbow. The 3.3 will be slightly lower revving than the 2.5 that the rustler was designed for so that will help get top end speed back. You might also want to go up a tooth or two from stock on the clutch bell. I always laughed when I saw guys replacing their traxxas motor with the O.S. 21TM and then speed running the stock gear ratio and complaining that the O.S. was a 'slower' motor than a 2.5 😂 bigger motor more torque less rpm = gear accordingly. Love the 'X-files' edit! Made me laugh!
Hey man, thank you for that awesome advice. It makes perfect sense. If I ever strip the spur gear, I’ll be sure to put in a smaller one. You are totally correct on that part. Also, I am a big proponent of small block engines and honestly I love the higher RPM compared to the displacement, and I am totally on your side. There is nothing wrong with a nice high revving 2.5.
Wow the new iPhone takes off 3 to 5 years easily!
Yes dude its the new special iphone 11 filter. Since i bought a brand new 4 year old iphone it seems to be changing my vids 🤣🤣🤣
What is the key to make a Nitro last forever?
That is a great question my man, I would say, treat them with respect and run them within limits. Also important never to have a runaway and a crash.
@@hybrid32494 Got myself a Radiomaster MT12 So I will never have a runaway ever again. I got miles of Range now 😎😎
@@hybrid32494 Have you tried the MT12? It completly fixed the runaway issues i used to have
Give it love and attention, like anything else
🆒 video & ℹ️ have 3️⃣ Traxxas Nitro Rustler 2️⃣.5️⃣ 🤑👍🏼🏎️🏁
overall the engine and carb look to big for chassis, the linkage looks correct for the smaller 2.2
hey dude! I was thinking that also, but the question is how can that actually be if the 2.5 and the 3.3 use the same carbs and same mounting locations. The only thing larger on the 3.3 is the cooling head, you know Weird case here, I know.
@@hybrid32494 ill bet traxxas made some varriants threw new releases and didnt tell, maybe its off a 4tec traxxas on road chassis, the gas tank is correct.
Very nice in-depth review on the Rustler, so the obvious is that the Traxxas carbs want to always idle at high RPM unless you bring the engine first up to temp and then after tuning the HSN you start leaning the LSN and lowering the idle gap. The best result would be a 2 second carb fuel tube pinch not more. As for the idle screw, it is best recommended that the brakes are on when tuning the idle screw gap. It seems to me that the barrel is not in the correct position with the idle screw. The best tuning in a Traxxas 3.3 or 2.5 is changing the carb to the OS 11K
Maybe it’s from Asia Alibaba
What shocks are you running?