I just ran across your video which you did a pretty good job with. I have for a very long time argued that the dirty belly screen was the major issue with the shortened life of the Kohler KT17 engine. What you discovered is very typical if the screen is still in place. Most are not. It's also quite rare to see the scrapers on the engine air intake still in place. Deere didn't provide nearly enough paths for cooling air on these machines and once that bottom screen is plugged as yours is, it pretty much chokes off what little air is available. They obviously cured that issue with the following model (318) as it and all others that followed are virtually riddles with holes in the tower area and side panels. Most of these screens and scrappers have long ago disappeared which then leads to the cylinder cooling fins getting plugged. And those seldom got attention. Once you recognize the need for keeping these areas clean, those KT engines will run as long as the rest of them. Nice job with the video.
Hey Mike I appreciate your content. I have a 317 and I love that little tractor. So I’m always looking to educate myself on the machines I use. I wish I understood the inner workings of the hydrostatic because mine won’t go anymore. Keep up the good work if it’s what you love to do.
I have found it easier to remove the fender pan, drive out the sheer pin from the drive shaft at the rear (which is normally rust-welled together), spray with penetrant, let sit for at least an hour, get on and start up and with throttle at full, push all the way forward quickly on the forward/reverse lever. The motor torque breaks the rust welds. I spray more penetrant and easily slide the motor out while it drags the drive shaft out with it. You can then deal with getting the drive shaft off the hub on the bench with the hub removed from the engine.
Hi. We are wanting to sell our 1980 JD 317. It sat for over a year. Now it won't turn over at all. Is there anyway to raise the plow and rear tiller to load it on a trailer if there's no power?
@@mikestarcher I have four 317s. One I purchased new in the day with the Series I. I still have it and the heads have never been off: Points, fuel pump, a coil (may have been a bad diagnosis...), plugs, oil filler cap, belts (but not too many as I always buy John Deere), Mule drive bearings/pulleys. It gets worked harder and longer than the other 317s (Vanguard and Series II), but I aways check the oil, keep it topped up and drive it on mostly flat land. It has countless hours. Smoked a bit 10 years ago so I started mixing Marvels in the gas and a little added to the engine oil. After a few tank fulls, no more smoke and none today!
I have a 1982 JD 317 with the KT-317 engine. I think it broke a connecting rod. Do you fix these? Where are you located? How much would it cost? I can pull the engine myself.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I just ran across your video which you did a pretty good job with. I have for a very long time argued that the dirty belly screen was the major issue with the shortened life of the Kohler KT17 engine. What you discovered is very typical if the screen is still in place. Most are not. It's also quite rare to see the scrapers on the engine air intake still in place. Deere didn't provide nearly enough paths for cooling air on these machines and once that bottom screen is plugged as yours is, it pretty much chokes off what little air is available. They obviously cured that issue with the following model (318) as it and all others that followed are virtually riddles with holes in the tower area and side panels. Most of these screens and scrappers have long ago disappeared which then leads to the cylinder cooling fins getting plugged. And those seldom got attention. Once you recognize the need for keeping these areas clean, those KT engines will run as long as the rest of them. Nice job with the video.
Hey Mike I appreciate your content. I have a 317 and I love that little tractor. So I’m always looking to educate myself on the machines I use. I wish I understood the inner workings of the hydrostatic because mine won’t go anymore. Keep up the good work if it’s what you love to do.
I like the "I save tractors." music. Norm would be proud.
You are correct about the piston. The hole is for piston orientation.
Thanks.
I have found it easier to remove the fender pan, drive out the sheer pin from the drive shaft at the rear (which is normally rust-welled together), spray with penetrant, let sit for at least an hour, get on and start up and with throttle at full, push all the way forward quickly on the forward/reverse lever. The motor torque breaks the rust welds. I spray more penetrant and easily slide the motor out while it drags the drive shaft out with it. You can then deal with getting the drive shaft off the hub on the bench with the hub removed from the engine.
Hey Mike I started watching your channel today we’re can I find parts for my 74 John deere 112
I use ebay or isavetractors
Thank you
Hi. We are wanting to sell our 1980 JD 317. It sat for over a year. Now it won't turn over at all. Is there anyway to raise the plow and rear tiller to load it on a trailer if there's no power?
Have 2 pick them up by hand
How do you get that tail shaft off? Mine has a Briggs swapped into it with a leaky rear main and I’m just struggling
The tail shaft?
hey bro just watched the 200 series operation. where can i buy with links to all supporting mods about the lift i am missing almost everything
Ebay or marketplace
Do you have any john deere garden tractor hub caps for sale?
Nope
Thank you
Are they both Series I?
Yup
@@mikestarcher I have four 317s. One I purchased new in the day with the Series I. I still have it and the heads have never been off: Points, fuel pump, a coil (may have been a bad diagnosis...), plugs, oil filler cap, belts (but not too many as I always buy John Deere), Mule drive bearings/pulleys. It gets worked harder and longer than the other 317s (Vanguard and Series II), but I aways check the oil, keep it topped up and drive it on mostly flat land. It has countless hours. Smoked a bit 10 years ago so I started mixing Marvels in the gas and a little added to the engine oil. After a few tank fulls, no more smoke and none today!
I have a 1982 JD 317 with the KT-317 engine. I think it broke a connecting rod. Do you fix these? Where are you located? How much would it cost? I can pull the engine myself.
It would be pretty expensive 2 fix but I could fix it for u. Probably $200 in parts + labor.
@@mikestarcher Where are you located? I love this tractor, and think it would be worth it.
@@taxmanrog ohio
Hey man are you selling and tractor or rototiller
I'm selling lots of tractors