Thanks a lot! Nice to see professional advice for a change :) Btw: if you're hourglass, with quite a difference between waist and hips, use your upper bust measurement for elastic. You will need to put the skirt over your head instead , like a dress, but the wait will be much less gathered.
I just started my sewing journey and I've been watching (too) many circle skirts pattern making tutorials on RUclips, but none of them covered the subtleties that you discussed. I feel like I should be paying to watch your videos, this is very valuable! Thank you so much 🥰
I just love your videos! I only sew as a hobby but I think if you're going to do something, do it as best you can. You are an INVALUABLE element to that process.Thank you so much !
I have to say you are really filling in the gap of videos here on RUclips. The points you make about important details being glossed over is so important. As a self taught sewer abd patternmaker (wanna be😂) I often wonder about these important details that aren't mentioned. Here is a video request, I hope you can make it. I am interested in high mobility sleeves. I wish I can add pictures here but think about Bridgeton costumes. Their sleeves allow them to raise their hands high up even with a very fitted bodice. How are those sleeves drafted exactly?
Love this request! You've given me an excuse to rewatch Bridgerton 😛 I guess you are referring to the really fitted, long sleeve ones? Do they have any gathering or height at the top?
@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Good, am glad you like the idea. I think some of them do have gathers, but some don't. I remember really liking Mrs Featherington's sleeves, usually fitted and above her elbow but not short. I guess the ones with gathers might be more comfortable but I would really like to see how the ungathered ones are made. But hopefully you can talk about both.
@abbycox and @nicolerudolph here on RUclips both have in depth video on sewing regency dresses and they are both professional dress historians. Basically regency sleeves have the armscyes set further back and the sleeve fullness sits more at the back than at the top.
Oh, how fun! I made a similar skirt from a commercial pattern (Burda magazine) in spring and I did wonder, what the point of the weird pattern shape was. Now I know!
i love this. As someone who has a belly I actually put less volume in the front and add it to the sides or els it looks very flat on the side and my stumack too big in the round
22:00 I notice that some of my flared skirts have diagonal lines along the side seams after they drop, I wish I can attach a picture. But how do I deal with that? I think it's the same as what you just described at 22:30, however because both patter pieces are on the bias, both have the dialogonal line or pukering. I was considering undoing the seams, hanging the skir and allowing them to drop then sew again, trim the excess and re-hem the skirt.
The bias is such a pain! But it does sound like you have a bias issue. I would do what you suggested and unpick the seam, let it drop on a mannequin. Then, trim the seam and nearby hem on the mannequin (or put it on your body and ask someone to help you), and then resew the seam and hem.
This is so interesting, I was just thinking about how to make a cone in 3D, but since our bodies are not perfect circles this make sense the 2D shape would not be either.
Thanks for your comment! If I was doing a skirt with a yoke waistband, I'd use a skirt block. I'd start by drawing the yoke style line and then cut along it (so I had 2 separate pattern pieces). I would then close any darts on the yoke pattern. Then, if I wanted to add flare to the rest of the skirt, I'd use the slash and spread technique (like I did in this video). Let me know if you've got anymore questions 😊
What about mass produced garments, do they really even out all the skirts on a mannequin? I saw in Helen Armstrong's patternmaking book, she recommend to allow the skirt to drop then even the hemline on the mannequin, then place the excess fabric that was cut away on the pattern to remove it from the hemline and redraw the hem. I imagine this recommendation is for skirts made in the same fabric. What do you think about this method? I guess you can disregard my question since you answered it😂. I don't want to delete it though. I asked even before watching the video because I have been wondering the same thing for a long time because am self taught.
No worries! Glad my video answered one of your questions. It's crazy nobody mentions this in other circle skirt videos. I am going to do a whole video on bias issues, because they always pop-up. But in the meantime, I'll share another tip. It's always good to check any style lines or darts on the bias too. Not only will they stretch when you sew them, but they can drop too. So, anything on the bias, sew it, put it on a mannequin, then give it a day to move around. Then, adjust it. If I've got a v-neckline, I'll sometimes put the neckline on grain (so my grainline is parralel to the neckline rather than the traditional centre front or back grainline). This is another industry hack to stop the neckline being stretched in production. Hope these tips help! 😊
@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Thank you so much for answering my questions. Looking forward to your future videos on bias issues. In regards to the V - neckline, just to make sure I understand, making the V-neck parallel to the straight grainline will make the CF on bias grain right? Also do you tilt the back pattern piece to be at same grainline as the front piece eventhough the back pattern piece may not have a V-neckline?
I wish I had paid more attention to this video before embarking on my japanese pleated skirt pattern adventure ! I figured it wouldn't apply to pleats but after enormous difficulty and a skirt I can just about get away with, I think I should have followed your process here. My question is however, would I apply the pleats to step one before cutting slash lines ? Thank you so much, you given me so much more confidence.
For pleated skirts, I would get the shape worked out first and then add the pleats. Are you making a 90 degree, flare skirt? You could use the approach I use in the video, and once you're happy with the shape, add the pleats in after. In general, pleats looks best when they don't overlap or have a gap in between them. To do this, make sure the folded length (i.e. area folded under) is 2 x the distance between each fold - does that make sense?
@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Thank you so much for taking the time to reply to my question. I'm relieved to hear your answer because I was worried that slats with pleats would get too messy for me. Thanks as well for your pleat advice. Yes, the skirt is flared and pleated at the same time - just to make it all extra difficult ! :). I will let you know how I get along. Next I will make your oversized shirt, which I'm really looking forward to and then hoping you'll come our with a trouser block ??!!! Thanks again for your amazingly helpful videos !
@@michele5310 No worries, let me know if you have any more questions! Yes, planning to get trouser kits out next year - the Guides just take sooo long to write 😛
@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Fantastic! I will wait. I haven't made your shirt yet but I did borrow the sleeve and armhole for another pattern and the fit was perfect! - a huge difference from any other pattern I've used. It sat on the shoulder perfectly! I will only make trousers YOU design - hoping they're a masculine cut :) - or can be adapted as such.
Thanks for your question. 😊 Just to clarify, do you mean the seam allowance along the waist? I usually do all my slash and spreading first. Then, when I'm happy with the shape, I'll 'blend' the points along the seams where I slashed, to create nice, smooth lines. Then, I'll add my seam allowances. Did that answer your question?
I was wondering more about the waist measurement for the back. I did a 3/4 circle for the front, then blended and added seams. For the back I wanted to add a full circle. So would I just use the 3/4 pattern, take off the 2 cm, then continue spreading?
Hi, Thanks for your question. The zip doesn't interfere with the pocket, and an invisible zip can handle a couple of layers of light to medium-weight fabric, so the pocket doesn't interfere with the zip either. I've made a video of me sewing the skirt too, which you can watch by clicking on the link below ruclips.net/video/HNfe-NHRyy0/видео.html
Thanks a lot! Nice to see professional advice for a change :)
Btw: if you're hourglass, with quite a difference between waist and hips, use your upper bust measurement for elastic. You will need to put the skirt over your head instead , like a dress, but the wait will be much less gathered.
Excellent tip! Thanks so much for sharing 😊
I just started my sewing journey and I've been watching (too) many circle skirts pattern making tutorials on RUclips, but none of them covered the subtleties that you discussed. I feel like I should be paying to watch your videos, this is very valuable! Thank you so much 🥰
You're welcome! Good luck on your sewing journey. Let me know if you need help with any other projects?
I just love your videos! I only sew as a hobby but I think if you're going to do something, do it as best you can. You are an INVALUABLE element to that process.Thank you so much !
Thank you sooo much! 🥰
I have to say you are really filling in the gap of videos here on RUclips. The points you make about important details being glossed over is so important. As a self taught sewer abd patternmaker (wanna be😂) I often wonder about these important details that aren't mentioned.
Here is a video request, I hope you can make it. I am interested in high mobility sleeves. I wish I can add pictures here but think about Bridgeton costumes. Their sleeves allow them to raise their hands high up even with a very fitted bodice. How are those sleeves drafted exactly?
Love this request! You've given me an excuse to rewatch Bridgerton 😛 I guess you are referring to the really fitted, long sleeve ones? Do they have any gathering or height at the top?
@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Good, am glad you like the idea. I think some of them do have gathers, but some don't. I remember really liking Mrs Featherington's sleeves, usually fitted and above her elbow but not short. I guess the ones with gathers might be more comfortable but I would really like to see how the ungathered ones are made. But hopefully you can talk about both.
@abbycox and @nicolerudolph here on RUclips both have in depth video on sewing regency dresses and they are both professional dress historians.
Basically regency sleeves have the armscyes set further back and the sleeve fullness sits more at the back than at the top.
I'm only 2:30 minutes in and already i am shocked! Can't wait to see the rest
Hope you enjoyed the rest! 🥰
Oh, how fun! I made a similar skirt from a commercial pattern (Burda magazine) in spring and I did wonder, what the point of the weird pattern shape was. Now I know!
Thank you for a thorough, insightful and creative video
That’s so lovely to hear, thank you! 🥰
Really Informative. Thank you. Subscribed.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it 🥰
This is really informative, thank you very much!
Glad it was helpful! 🥰
crazy informative--instant sub! thank you!!
Thank you so much! 😊 I'm glad you liked it.
Great info!
Thanks so much! 😊
i love this. As someone who has a belly I actually put less volume in the front and add it to the sides or els it looks very flat on the side and my stumack too big in the round
Yes! Great tip!! It's all about playing with the shapes to get the best fit for your body. 😊
22:00 I notice that some of my flared skirts have diagonal lines along the side seams after they drop, I wish I can attach a picture. But how do I deal with that? I think it's the same as what you just described at 22:30, however because both patter pieces are on the bias, both have the dialogonal line or pukering. I was considering undoing the seams, hanging the skir and allowing them to drop then sew again, trim the excess and re-hem the skirt.
The bias is such a pain! But it does sound like you have a bias issue.
I would do what you suggested and unpick the seam, let it drop on a mannequin. Then, trim the seam and nearby hem on the mannequin (or put it on your body and ask someone to help you), and then resew the seam and hem.
This is so interesting, I was just thinking about how to make a cone in 3D, but since our bodies are not perfect circles this make sense the 2D shape would not be either.
Thanks for your comment! That's a really interesting way to think about it...should have thought of that for the video 😊
Wow！ This is super clear! Question: how would the pattern for the flared skirt altered if we are to do a yoke/v-yoke waistband?
Thanks for your comment! If I was doing a skirt with a yoke waistband, I'd use a skirt block. I'd start by drawing the yoke style line and then cut along it (so I had 2 separate pattern pieces). I would then close any darts on the yoke pattern. Then, if I wanted to add flare to the rest of the skirt, I'd use the slash and spread technique (like I did in this video).
Let me know if you've got anymore questions 😊
@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Wow this is super clear! Thank you! I can't wait for more pattern making + sewing videos from you!!!
Thank you very much!
You're welcome! 😊
What about mass produced garments, do they really even out all the skirts on a mannequin? I saw in Helen Armstrong's patternmaking book, she recommend to allow the skirt to drop then even the hemline on the mannequin, then place the excess fabric that was cut away on the pattern to remove it from the hemline and redraw the hem. I imagine this recommendation is for skirts made in the same fabric. What do you think about this method?
I guess you can disregard my question since you answered it😂. I don't want to delete it though. I asked even before watching the video because I have been wondering the same thing for a long time because am self taught.
No worries! Glad my video answered one of your questions. It's crazy nobody mentions this in other circle skirt videos.
I am going to do a whole video on bias issues, because they always pop-up. But in the meantime, I'll share another tip. It's always good to check any style lines or darts on the bias too. Not only will they stretch when you sew them, but they can drop too. So, anything on the bias, sew it, put it on a mannequin, then give it a day to move around. Then, adjust it.
If I've got a v-neckline, I'll sometimes put the neckline on grain (so my grainline is parralel to the neckline rather than the traditional centre front or back grainline). This is another industry hack to stop the neckline being stretched in production.
Hope these tips help! 😊
@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Thank you so much for answering my questions. Looking forward to your future videos on bias issues.
In regards to the V - neckline, just to make sure I understand, making the V-neck parallel to the straight grainline will make the CF on bias grain right? Also do you tilt the back pattern piece to be at same grainline as the front piece eventhough the back pattern piece may not have a V-neckline?
I wish I had paid more attention to this video before embarking on my japanese pleated skirt pattern adventure ! I figured it wouldn't apply to pleats but after enormous difficulty and a skirt I can just about get away with, I think I should have followed your process here. My question is however, would I apply the pleats to step one before cutting slash lines ? Thank you so much, you given me so much more confidence.
For pleated skirts, I would get the shape worked out first and then add the pleats. Are you making a 90 degree, flare skirt? You could use the approach I use in the video, and once you're happy with the shape, add the pleats in after.
In general, pleats looks best when they don't overlap or have a gap in between them. To do this, make sure the folded length (i.e. area folded under) is 2 x the distance between each fold - does that make sense?
@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Thank you so much for taking the time to reply to my question. I'm relieved to hear your answer because I was worried that slats with pleats would get too messy for me. Thanks as well for your pleat advice. Yes, the skirt is flared and pleated at the same time - just to make it all extra difficult ! :). I will let you know how I get along. Next I will make your oversized shirt, which I'm really looking forward to and then hoping you'll come our with a trouser block ??!!! Thanks again for your amazingly helpful videos !
@@michele5310 No worries, let me know if you have any more questions! Yes, planning to get trouser kits out next year - the Guides just take sooo long to write 😛
@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Fantastic! I will wait. I haven't made your shirt yet but I did borrow the sleeve and armhole for another pattern and the fit was perfect! - a huge difference from any other pattern I've used. It sat on the shoulder perfectly! I will only make trousers YOU design - hoping they're a masculine cut :) - or can be adapted as such.
@@michele5310 Yes, I'm planning on doing a slim fit and then a more oversized one with a dropped crotch 😊
Thank you .😊
You're welcome! 😊
Thank you for this process. Question: if you wanted to draft a full circle would you add the seam allowance before you cut and spread?
Thanks for your question. 😊 Just to clarify, do you mean the seam allowance along the waist?
I usually do all my slash and spreading first. Then, when I'm happy with the shape, I'll 'blend' the points along the seams where I slashed, to create nice, smooth lines. Then, I'll add my seam allowances.
Did that answer your question?
I was wondering more about the waist measurement for the back. I did a 3/4 circle for the front, then blended and added seams. For the back I wanted to add a full circle. So would I just use the 3/4 pattern, take off the 2 cm, then continue spreading?
@@planetcomputer3884 Yes! You've got it. Just take 2cm off at the side seam and then spread the pattern some more. 🥰
Thank you so much!
thankyou so much for this
You're welcome! 🥰
wont the zip interfere with the pockets?
Hi, Thanks for your question. The zip doesn't interfere with the pocket, and an invisible zip can handle a couple of layers of light to medium-weight fabric, so the pocket doesn't interfere with the zip either.
I've made a video of me sewing the skirt too, which you can watch by clicking on the link below ruclips.net/video/HNfe-NHRyy0/видео.html
I like to make my skirts to be parallel to the floor, I have a big butt.
I'm planning on doing some gathered skirt and dress tutorials soon, so that might be more your thing 😊