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Glad you enjoyed it! Yes, I should have converted the measurements to inches. This is one of my earlier videos, my recent ones have both imperial and metric 😊

You're welcome! Glad you enjoyed it 😊

Great idea! I'll put that on the to-do-list 😊

@ thanks!! Especially grading when style lines or design elements have dramatically changed the shape of the garment(like where you’ve added cowls or you’ve slashed and spread so your shoulder seam isn’t in the normal spot.)

So glad you liked the video! 😊 Does the sleeveless top you made have a waist or bust dart on the Front? If so, I would toile your pattern as it is and pin out (and then mark with a pen) the excess at the neck. Make sure you pin towards the bust point (nipple). Then, take your toile, put it over the original pattern and trace over the neck excess markings. There should be a triangular shape heading towards the bust point. Then, you need to rotate this excess into the dart by cutting a slash line from the dart point (end of dart) to the bust point (nipple). Then, close the excess. This will move the excess into the dart and make it bigger. Then, redraw the dart point in the centre and curve the dart legs towards it. Does that make sense?

I've kind of done a video on this ruclips.net/video/OZ-a1i68WnI/видео.html In the video I'm subtracting (and adding) armhole excess, but it's the same principle as moving neck excess into a dart

If you don't have a dart, you could try unpicking the shoulder seam and smoothing out the neck excess over the shoulder. You can then add some extra fabric and redraw the shoulder seam where it should be. This may had some excess to the armhole, but it's worth a try - it's a bit hard for me to say without seeing a picture 😊

Excellent question! I've actually done a video on fixing armhole excess (and tight armholes) ruclips.net/video/OZ-a1i68WnI/видео.html Armhole excess can happen for lots of reasons, but, essentially, what you need to do is rotate the armhole excess down into a dart. Let me know if you have any more questions after watching the video 😊 The above video is a small snippet from the full Dress Fitting Video I did earlier this year (ruclips.net/video/hcigQAdpgBk/видео.html) which you might be interested in. And if you want more info on how to rotate darts and use them to create design details (like gathering & style lines) you can checkout this video ruclips.net/video/4F2InUbYjDc/видео.html

Sleeveless armholes should sit pretty close to the body. However, armholes with sleeves need some ease in the bottom half of the armhole. Front needs 0.6 cm (1/4") of ease and back needs 1.9 cm (3/4"). You can use a french curve to help draw the armhole shape too. Let me know if you have any more questions 😊

Hi! 😊 The back and front armhole can be different lengths. If they are, the back sleeve will be bigger than the front part. Maybe toile your pattern without the sleeve first and check you are happy with how the armhole looks. Then attach the sleeve? If your back and front armholes are different sizes, you'll need to find the centre of the sleeve by folding the paper in half (making sure the bicep line and underarm points are on top of each other). Then, draw the underarm seam of your sleeve on one side. Once you're happy with the shape, you can trace it to the other side. Does that make sense? It's a bit more fiddly when the armholes aren't the same size because you need to find the centre (which won't be where the shoulder seam is). Let me know if you have any more questions 🥰

You're welcome! Glad you found it helpful 😊

You're welcome! 🥰

I know! It's crazy how big they get 😱

Yes, you can rotate any excess into that dart. It will get bigger, but not too pointy 😊

You're welcome 😊

You're welcome!! I'm planning on releasing an online course later this year, so keep a look out for that 😊

You're welcome! Hengistbury Head looks so beautiful too 😍 Let me know if you have any questions - happy to help!

You're welcome! And completely agree re the mannequin - and I'm planning on doing a video on how to pad your mannequin so it's an exact replica of your body soon. I've also done a couple of videos on fitting dresses that you might be interested in: Part 1 - Shows you how to custom grade a block to your measurements ruclips.net/video/Ldy2UiyfLmc/видео.html Part 2 - Shows you how to fit your toiled block perfectly ruclips.net/video/hcigQAdpgBk/видео.html Part 2 has lots of timestamps, so if there is a particular part of the body you're struggling with you can jump to that part 😊

I bought this mannequin soooo long ago from a company (www.munchkinmannequins.com.au) in Australia that is now closed unfortunately 😔 - sorry that wasn't more helpful!

Great question! And I'm really glad you asked it now because I'm currently writing a script for a video that will answer this question perfectly. Essentially, it will be about how to make fitted blocks loose and oversized 😊 In the meantime, I can answer the garment ease part (see response below) but I'll have to get back to you on the shoulder drop and underarm drop recommendations once I've finished the video - there are just way too many variables and I'd definitely need a diagram or two to explain it 😂 Garment ease - The sleeve should match the armhole measurement, so if you've already added garment ease you don't need to do anything else to the sleeve, EXCEPT check the bicep measurement is okay (i.e. has enough ease so the wearer is comfortable). I covered this a bit in the video, but let me know if you've any questions.

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Many thanks. I definitely look forward to your new video. ❤

Hi Imran, I'm okay for the moment. Thanks for reaching out though. 😊

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Dear Leigh, Thank you for your response! A few days ago, I sent you an email regarding the SEO issues with your RUclips channel. After reviewing the channel, I noticed some areas where improvements can be made, which could help increase your channel's growth and visibility. If you're interested, I'd be happy to discuss these areas in more detail and show you how my services could be beneficial for your channel. Your feedback is highly valuable to me, and I look forward to hearing from you.

You're welcome! I'm so glad you found it helpful. 😊

You're welcome ☺️

Completely agree! Annoying and unavoidable - it does feel great when your scissors glide through the fabric and trim it all off in one piece though 😂

Good to know! Thanks for sharing 😊

Hi, thanks for your comment! Yes, adding seam allowances does make the pattern bigger, but you'll be sewing along the seam, so as long as the armhole and sleeve match along the seam it should be okay. Depending on how loose you made the sleeve, you may have a bit of ease at the top of the sleeve cap (so it would be slightly bigger). Does that answer your question?

To be honest I haven't tried this, but I think you could switch them pretty easily. Some things to note: - The armhole on the One Dart Fitted Dress block is slightly higher (max. 5mm), so'll you need to drop it down to meet the Back of the Torso block. - When you toile the blocks, have a look at the shoulder seam too. The shoulder of each block is at a at different angle because of the darts. If there are any issues (e.g. pulling) just upick the seam and pin it in the right place so it's sitting flat. You'll then need to redraw the neckline and armhole so they meet up. They are the only issues I can think of, but if you have any questions let me know 😊

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Thank you！！！

Yes, definitely. You can follow the same process for the bodice and back skirt. Obviously the block is different, so the front bodice dart will be at an angle and you'll have a centre back seam. However, the front skirt will be different as the dart is at an angle. After you cut along the waist seam, you can 'close' this dart on the skirt by sticking the two pieces (main skirt body & the pointy end of the dart) together along the dart. If there is a bit of excess in the middle, don't worry. The important thing is you join them at the base of the dart and have a nice, smooth line at the waist (you may need to blend the points along the waist). And double check the waist measurement is the same as the original block. Does that make sense? Let me know if you have any questions 😊

Also, did you leave a comment on one of my other videos about custom grading? I thought I saw something pop up, but the comment has disappeared. 😱 From memory, I thought you were asking about where to custom grade? Don't take anything from the centre front or centre back. It should all come from the side seams (you could adjust the darts a bit if you need to too - but start with the side seams). Let me know if you've got anymore questions 😊

@@PatternMakingWithLeighthank you so much! This helps this a lot! (Yeah right after I left that comment, I rewatched the video and realized that I should just take it from the side seams.)

You're welcome 😊

Thanks for your comment! If I was doing a skirt with a yoke waistband, I'd use a skirt block. I'd start by drawing the yoke style line and then cut along it (so I had 2 separate pattern pieces). I would then close any darts on the yoke pattern. Then, if I wanted to add flare to the rest of the skirt, I'd use the slash and spread technique (like I did in this video). Let me know if you've got anymore questions 😊

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Wow this is super clear! Thank you! I can't wait for more pattern making + sewing videos from you!!!

Hi, Thanks for your question. The zip doesn't interfere with the pocket, and an invisible zip can handle a couple of layers of light to medium-weight fabric, so the pocket doesn't interfere with the zip either. I've made a video of me sewing the skirt too, which you can watch by clicking on the link below ruclips.net/video/HNfe-NHRyy0/видео.html

You're welcome! 😊

Hi Betty, thanks for your comment. Usually, I would recommend padding out the mannequin with wadding. So maybe get a dressform that has the right hip measurement, and then pad out the rest. I've had lots of requests for videos on how to do this, so I'll post one soon. But essentially, you get some wadding and pin a layer to where you need to add width. Then, press it with an iron. This will condense the wadding and give you a strong base to drape and pin too. You'll have to repeat this process a couple of times, but if you're going to be making a lot of patterns for yourself (especially draped designs) it will be worth the effort. 😊 Sorry, I don't have a quick fix though! In terms of blocks to use, I would recommend my One Dart Fitted Dress. While you'll still have to pad the dressform, you can use your fitted block to cover and protect the wadding. It will also help to sculpt the wadding into the right shape. Let me know if you have any more questions. Leigh xx

Thank you, Leigh. I so look forward to that video. I'll save up to get fitted dress block. I used all my sewing budget this month on grandgirl makes! Happy Holidays, Hope your 2025 is the best ever. Betty in Texas

Great question! 'Hanging' a sleeve is part of fitting sleeves. Essentially, when you check how a sleeve 'hangs' you are looking to see whether the centre of the sleeve is aligned with your side seam. So you need to toile your front, back and sleeve patterns, and put it on yourself / sample model. Ideally, the centre of the sleeve will be aligned with the side seam (or max 2 cm towards the front). If it isn't aligned, you need to unpin/unpick the sleeve and rotate it. Once it's rotated to the correct position, you need to adjust the armhole (on front & back patterns) at the side seam and shoulder seam, so it matches the underarm seam and shoulder notch of the sleeve. I didn't include this in the video because the video was already getting quite long and it's a bit confusing 🫤 Perhaps a good idea for a future video!

@PatternMakingWithLeigh I'd love to see it done in more detail!

Glad you liked it!! 😊

Hi, my One Dart Fitted Dress block is very fitted and the perfect block to use to make a fitted dress pattern. However, while the shape of the block would be correct, you'd need to pad your mannequin using wadding to the correct dimensions. Essentially, you get a layer of wadding, pin it where you need to add width on your mannequin, then press it flat with an iron. The iron will condense the wadding and give you a strong, solid base to work from. You'll need to repeat this process a couple times, or more - depending on how much width you need to add. You could then put my block over the layers of wadding to use as an outer layer of protection to conceal the wadding. Plus, it will make sure the wadding is moulded to the correct shape. You could then use the same block as a base for any patterns you want to create. 😊 Let me know if you have any more questions.

Yes, you could test your patterns as you go. I'll often pin my patterns to my mannequin as I work before toiling it (e.g. check shape of jacket lapels, pocket placements & shirt collars). I also do all my draping on a mannequin - and it makes it sooo much easier if the mannequin is the right measurements when you drape. Adjusting the size of a mannequin is a bit fiddly. In the industry, we pad the mannequin with wadding to make it bigger. You need layers and layers of it. You put one on, press it flat with an iron to condense it, and then repeat it again and again until you've added enough. Let me know if you've got any more questions 😊

You're welcome! 😊

Thank you! Let me know if you have any questions about the blocks 😊

For pleated skirts, I would get the shape worked out first and then add the pleats. Are you making a 90 degree, flare skirt? You could use the approach I use in the video, and once you're happy with the shape, add the pleats in after. In general, pleats looks best when they don't overlap or have a gap in between them. To do this, make sure the folded length (i.e. area folded under) is 2 x the distance between each fold - does that make sense?

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Thank you so much for taking the time to reply to my question. I'm relieved to hear your answer because I was worried that slats with pleats would get too messy for me. Thanks as well for your pleat advice. Yes, the skirt is flared and pleated at the same time - just to make it all extra difficult ! :). I will let you know how I get along. Next I will make your oversized shirt, which I'm really looking forward to and then hoping you'll come our with a trouser block ??!!! Thanks again for your amazingly helpful videos !

@@michele5310 No worries, let me know if you have any more questions! Yes, planning to get trouser kits out next year - the Guides just take sooo long to write 😛

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Fantastic! I will wait. I haven't made your shirt yet but I did borrow the sleeve and armhole for another pattern and the fit was perfect! - a huge difference from any other pattern I've used. It sat on the shoulder perfectly! I will only make trousers YOU design - hoping they're a masculine cut :) - or can be adapted as such.

@@michele5310 Yes, I'm planning on doing a slim fit and then a more oversized one with a dropped crotch 😊

Happy to help! 😊

You're welcome! Good luck on your sewing journey. Let me know if you need help with any other projects?

Glad I could help! 😊

Yes, my tape measure is always around my neck - just need somewhere for my scissors now 😛

Glad you enjoyed it! 😊

Of course! I've had a couple of Alaïa skirt questions. If you want to email a photo of the Alaïa skirt you are trying to make to studio@cliqdpatternkits.com I can send you some tips 😊

Thank you! Your comment made my day 😊

Glad it was helpful! 😊