I had started a search to find a tenoning jig to add to my crosscut sled and came across this. I like this method. It eliminates the process of having to size the tenon to the mortise.
it's a very good jig just a question when the top rail of the door is longer than the height of the jig you need to use another jig to work horizontally?
Awesome Jig I purchased the plans, built the mortiser and just finished my first double tenons for the bedroom dresser I am making. I think using a slip tenon is much more accurate as well as faster than the traditional M&T joint. I just told my wife that I wished I watched your video before I purchased my Benchtop Mortiser. I found your mortiser to work just as you stated, and it is very accurate. Thanks again.
@Pat Skanes, since you recently commented, i built one similar but found that a 1/4 " diameter bit using the 3/4" sub top only gives me a 1/2 deep mortise and that's cheating a little in the collet which i'm not crazy about. did you find the same?
@@ed1884378 With my first try I couldn’t get the 1” depth I was looking for so, I had to purchase a new 3/8” bit with a longer shaft. I now can get a full 1” deep slot with a safe amount in the collet. But I recommend turning the router shaft by hand when you are at full depth to ensure that no part of the router nut touches the guide bushing (yep, happened to me and I live to tell the tale). I am not at home now but if I remember correctly my ½” shank, 3/8” dia. bit is almost 3” long. Hope this helps.
Hey Philip. I've been a fan of your Instagram stuff for a while and had no idea you had a RUclips channel. Looking forward to checking out more of your content!
Bought the plans for this last year. Revisiting the video after seeing Tamar (3x3 customs) put out her own version. Hers was cool (and compact) but I like yours way more. Glad I got your plans!
This is a great jig. I built one a while ago and use it routinely for slip (loose) tenon joinery. Much more flexible and precise than a Festool Domino joiner, which I have also used. The Domino can really vibrate and is hard to use for and end grain mortise. The Morley jig can make any size and width mortise with a rock solid platform for your router. You probably have enough scrap lying around to make one. Highly recommended.
I like the runners you have used to connect the top and bottom pieces. I assume this keeps the cut for the guide bushing parallel to the vertical piece. I also like the method you have used to determine the length of the mortise. Very nice job
Very nice jig Philip.I like the use of your "shim" so that all future mortises will be able to use your same tenon stock. I am not so sure of the max depth you will have since you will lose 3/4". I would like to see the top piece made as thin as possible for max penetration, but for 3/4" members, your jig would be fine, and the clamps are just great. Can't understand how so simple an idea was never brought to market until these came out. I love using them. All in all great jig but need it needs "option" for a thinner top to use. I made one like it, but too heavy and it uses clamps which are way too oversized. It works fine but never thought about using that shim so all my tenon stock would be spot on whenever set up. This is much better and lighter, especially for using 3/4" stock, as I stated above.
Have you thought about adding a self centering feature on the jig similar to what I’ve seen on other mortising jigs? Basically what I’ve seen is two sides of the jig connected by bolts in slots that rotate to find the center.
How have I missed ur channel? I’ve seen ur logo before so I know I’ve seen some stuff... heard ur name on wood talk and looked u up. Glad I did. Building this right away. It’ll be great since I can’t afford a domino yet
I just bought the plans. I have some toggle clamps that I'm going to use instead of the MicroJig clamps, so I will be making a moveable 'sled' for the bottom, that will fit either vertically or horizontally, to be able to hold pieces in either orientation. The sled will have to slid in either direction on that face plate. I do plan on making dovetails for the slots on that front clamping plate - which means I'll have to make coinciding runners to mount the sled in those two orientations I mentioned. Should be fun! Also, I'm considering making a larger jig in which to fit the top, so I could use that top piece for bigger projects, by allowing that top piece to move inside reference points on that bigger jig... We'll see if I actually go through with it - right now, it is just an idea...
I used T tracks and mounted my clamps to moveable blocks to support pieces in any direction. I can cut pieces at any angle - not just horizontally or vertically. I can even cut very narrow splines in corners because of my modifications. Starting with these plans made it easier to get the base going, so I didn't have to think about what size everything should be.
Hi Philip I’ve been watched so many RUclips vids to find a suitable design, and yours is head & shoulders above the rest! I’m starting to build a scaled down version to suit my Trend T4 EK. Can I ask… the bed that supports the router seems to sit quite high above the bench. Is there any special reason for that other than your own preference and ergonomics? Cheers Mal
I have a question regarding this jig. I started building this with a 5/8” top. I just started testing with my 1/4” bit. I did not realize how quickly I would max out the depth. I just hit my guide bushing with my collet as I plunged my router. Is there anything special that is done to overcome this? Do you just limit your depth to no more than 1”? Can I get a longer spiral bit?
Beatutfuly done and well worth the price . Only thing mising would have been a cut sheet, otherwise they are excellent, and looking forward to get one assembled.
Great idea! So does this take the place of a Festool Domino joiner? I thought I had seen you utilize one of those somewhere alongh the line, but I cannot be certain.
Just bought the plans to make the Morley chair, if you've ever heard of that---hoping I can get deep enough for those massive tenons. Any comment on why there's two top sheets? Only thing I've come up with is flexibility for wider tenons.
First...your method for finding center is brilliant! Now I'm heading over to your site to get this plan. I'll second another commenter...you are quickly becoming my favorite woodworking channel. By the way...does this mean you will not do plans for the horizontal mortiser?
Great job. Would definitely make repeatable cuts a breeze. I think a hardwood top would last longer and not oblong the hole were your bushing rides. But overall a fantastic job.
Accurate and simple! Love it. I'm gonna undertake a version of your horizontal router. I use the leigh fmt pro but for long table rails, doing the mortises in the end is a struggle when the piece is 8' long.
+Rob J. That is like asking which of my children I love the most. Ha. I really like them both but use them for different things. The Porter Cable is quite a bit cheaper though.
I know this is old. I got the "plans" for this jig from a Fine Woodworking article. It doesn't show the top width measurements. I'm assuming something like 12 inches. Does anyone know if that would work? I hope someone sees this. Lol.
Just came across this mentioned recently on my Instagram timeline and thought I’d take a look. This is such a great idea! I also liked the way you marked centre; a great tip. Thanks.
Yes. However, you can still get a 2” cut if you buy the longer bits from Whiteside. I also like using their 3/8” diameter bit with the 3/8” shaft. I probably use that bit 85% of the time.
Just built and used the jig. Worked great. A couple of suggestions. First, there is a typo in the list of materials. You don't need 2 "B" panels. It should only be 1. Also, I used 1/4-20 Threaded Inserts (www.amazon.com/dp/B07SSCF8Y4) instead of nuts for the knobs. Easier to install (no counter sinks needed) and easier to use (no nuts to fall out when you remove the knob). A good source of knobs is this jig hardware kit (www.amazon.com/dp/B07KQGTML7). It's always good to have lots of these knobs around for various jigs.
I love this build. Hope that one day i will find enought time to build something like that. That could be great if someone could invent similiar one with replaceable plexi patterns plates for multiple and various mortises.
+JW Kooi i usually just call it "tenon stock" I should probably make a video showing how but the simple process is to mill a board to the thickness and width of your mortise and use a round over router bit on the edges.
I agree, David. I too have the plans which reference a quantity of two item "B" on sheet 8 of 8 and again in the Review plans. After viewing the video a second time I believe there should be only one item "B". Other than that pending question I think Philip's plans are very good. The design appears uncomplicated. I expect it to be agile and accurate in use.
I have just completed it and it works great. It's very accurate and you get extremely quick results. One suggestion . . . if you are finding difficulty stopping the top from binding in the runners whatever you do, even if each runner slides smoothly, sanding both surfaces (B and C) with 300+ and waxing it and the sides of the runners with Minwax Paste Finishing Wax solves the problem completely.
I had started a search to find a tenoning jig to add to my crosscut sled and came across this. I like this method. It eliminates the process of having to size the tenon to the mortise.
I liked your idea of using a block of wood to find Center, simple and brilliant.
it's a very good jig
just a question when the top rail of the door is longer than the height of the jig
you need to use another jig to work horizontally?
Congrats on the FWW article Philip!
Bought the plans and built my own jig, just used it for the first time and I love this thing.
Awesome Jig
I purchased the plans, built the mortiser and just finished my first double tenons for the bedroom dresser I am making. I think using a slip tenon is much more accurate as well as faster than the traditional M&T joint. I just told my wife that I wished I watched your video before I purchased my Benchtop Mortiser. I found your mortiser to work just as you stated, and it is very accurate.
Thanks again.
@Pat Skanes, since you recently commented, i built one similar but found that a 1/4 " diameter bit using the 3/4" sub top only gives me a 1/2 deep mortise and that's cheating a little in the collet which i'm not crazy about. did you find the same?
@@ed1884378 With my first try I couldn’t get the 1” depth I was looking for so, I had to purchase a new 3/8” bit with a longer shaft. I now can get a full 1” deep slot with a safe amount in the collet. But I recommend turning the router shaft by hand when you are at full depth to ensure that no part of the router nut touches the guide bushing (yep, happened to me and I live to tell the tale). I am not at home now but if I remember correctly my ½” shank, 3/8” dia. bit is almost 3” long. Hope this helps.
Great tip using the square to find the center. Never seen that before.
Hey Philip. I've been a fan of your Instagram stuff for a while and had no idea you had a RUclips channel. Looking forward to checking out more of your content!
Bought the plans and just finished making it tonight. Works great! Looking forward to much more accurate mortises from now on! Thanks Philip.
I have only watched a couple of your vids so far and I already have learnt a lot from you. Thank you from a novice.
That’s great! Thanks for the feedback.
Philip I believe your design is the ultimate culmination of those built on the "Tube" - good job!
Bought the plans for this last year. Revisiting the video after seeing Tamar (3x3 customs) put out her own version. Hers was cool (and compact) but I like yours way more. Glad I got your plans!
Great video! Bought the plans and just finished building the jig. It works really well. Thanks for taking the time to design and share with others.
This is a great jig. I built one a while ago and use it routinely for slip (loose) tenon joinery. Much more flexible and precise than a Festool Domino joiner, which I have also used. The Domino can really vibrate and is hard to use for and end grain mortise. The Morley jig can make any size and width mortise with a rock solid platform for your router. You probably have enough scrap lying around to make one. Highly recommended.
I like the runners you have used to connect the top and bottom pieces. I assume this keeps the cut for the guide bushing parallel to the vertical piece. I also like the method you have used to determine the length of the mortise. Very nice job
Looks great but I have one question. Will it handle cutting a mortise in the end of a long 8/4 leg stock such as a table leg?
Great jig really like it.
Very nice jig Philip.I like the use of your "shim" so that all future mortises will be able to use your same tenon stock.
I am not so sure of the max depth you will have since you will lose 3/4".
I would like to see the top piece made as thin as possible for max penetration, but for 3/4" members, your jig would be fine, and the clamps are just great. Can't understand how so simple an idea was never brought to market until these came out. I love using them.
All in all great jig but need it needs "option" for a thinner top to use. I made one like it, but too heavy and it uses clamps which are way too oversized. It works fine but never thought about using that shim so all my tenon stock would be spot on whenever set up. This is much better and lighter, especially for using 3/4" stock, as I stated above.
Have you thought about adding a self centering feature on the jig similar to what I’ve seen on other mortising jigs? Basically what I’ve seen is two sides of the jig connected by bolts in slots that rotate to find the center.
Liked-Subscribed-Notified. I had no idea that Texans had a British accent these days
I can't place his accent either, is it a Wimberley, Texas accent or what? He sounds Australian sometimes too.
That's an awesome jig Phillip! Excellent alternative to the Domino.
Thanks!!👊
Wow! Awesome gadget!
I will definitely do the same for myself.
Thank you very much and take care of yourself there. :)
Great stuff!
How have I missed ur channel? I’ve seen ur logo before so I know I’ve seen some stuff... heard ur name on wood talk and looked u up. Glad I did. Building this right away. It’ll be great since I can’t afford a domino yet
Very cool. I may have to buy the plans if I end up going this route.
Well done Philip!
I just bought the plans. I have some toggle clamps that I'm going to use instead of the MicroJig clamps, so I will be making a moveable 'sled' for the bottom, that will fit either vertically or horizontally, to be able to hold pieces in either orientation. The sled will have to slid in either direction on that face plate. I do plan on making dovetails for the slots on that front clamping plate - which means I'll have to make coinciding runners to mount the sled in those two orientations I mentioned. Should be fun! Also, I'm considering making a larger jig in which to fit the top, so I could use that top piece for bigger projects, by allowing that top piece to move inside reference points on that bigger jig... We'll see if I actually go through with it - right now, it is just an idea...
I used T tracks and mounted my clamps to moveable blocks to support pieces in any direction. I can cut pieces at any angle - not just horizontally or vertically. I can even cut very narrow splines in corners because of my modifications. Starting with these plans made it easier to get the base going, so I didn't have to think about what size everything should be.
Hi Philip
I’ve been watched so many RUclips vids to find a suitable design, and yours is head & shoulders above the rest!
I’m starting to build a scaled down version to suit my Trend T4 EK.
Can I ask… the bed that supports the router seems to sit quite high above the bench. Is there any special reason for that other than your own preference and ergonomics?
Cheers
Mal
Are the plans still available, link in description no longer works....
well done, thats a really cool jig 👏
Awesome. Bought the plans. Looking forward to building and using this.
That’s awesome. Let me know how it goes!!
Ordered. Anxious to see how it performs for me.
+Steve Hawkins post some pictures or video on my Facebook page of your build. Thanks.
Excellent !
Love the jig. I will purchase the plans soon, thanks!!
I have a question regarding this jig. I started building this with a 5/8” top. I just started testing with my 1/4” bit. I did not realize how quickly I would max out the depth. I just hit my guide bushing with my collet as I plunged my router. Is there anything special that is done to overcome this? Do you just limit your depth to no more than 1”? Can I get a longer spiral bit?
Sweet set up! Thanks.
Where do you get your plywood. I know it's not the Home Depot or Lowes near me.
This video was awesome! Y’all are killin it 👊🏼
+Alex Marez thank you
Beatutfuly done and well worth the price . Only thing mising would have been a cut sheet, otherwise they are excellent, and looking forward to get one assembled.
Great idea! So does this take the place of a Festool Domino joiner? I thought I had seen you utilize one of those somewhere alongh the line, but I cannot be certain.
the link for the plans doesn't work any longer.
NIce jig.
Very Nice Design
Just bought the plans to make the Morley chair, if you've ever heard of that---hoping I can get deep enough for those massive tenons. Any comment on why there's two top sheets? Only thing I've come up with is flexibility for wider tenons.
It's a typo. I didn't realize it was an error until I had already make the second top sheet (B). Frustrating waste of time.
Nice work! Do you have a guide on the size of tennon that should be used based on joint?
First...your method for finding center is brilliant! Now I'm heading over to your site to get this plan. I'll second another commenter...you are quickly becoming my favorite woodworking channel.
By the way...does this mean you will not do plans for the horizontal mortiser?
+Ross Nanfito I will do plans for the horizontal mortiser as well but it is much more complex and will take some time to source all the parts. Thanks!
Great job. Would definitely make repeatable cuts a breeze. I think a hardwood top would last longer and not oblong the hole were your bushing rides. But overall a fantastic job.
Accurate and simple! Love it. I'm gonna undertake a version of your horizontal router. I use the leigh fmt pro but for long table rails, doing the mortises in the end is a struggle when the piece is 8' long.
+Rhys H I'd love to know how your mortiser turns out. Make sure to send along some photos or share them on my Facebook page.
Spectacular jig!!!!
What happened to your Festool router? Which one do you like best?
+Rob J. That is like asking which of my children I love the most. Ha. I really like them both but use them for different things. The Porter Cable is quite a bit cheaper though.
Esta increible, quiero uno!!! Gracias!
I know this is old. I got the "plans" for this jig from a Fine Woodworking article. It doesn't show the top width measurements. I'm assuming something like 12 inches.
Does anyone know if that would work?
I hope someone sees this. Lol.
Awesome mate. Well done!
+Dan Pryde thank you
Just came across this mentioned recently on my Instagram timeline and thought I’d take a look. This is such a great idea! I also liked the way you marked centre; a great tip. Thanks.
Nice.
Bought the plans would like to buy the exact knobs you are using please tell me where I can purchase them thanks Layne.
Honestly I am not sure but I believe it was Rockler.
nice but, will the bit cut length be reduced due to the front panel thickness?
Yes. However, you can still get a 2” cut if you buy the longer bits from Whiteside. I also like using their 3/8” diameter bit with the 3/8” shaft. I probably use that bit 85% of the time.
Just built and used the jig. Worked great. A couple of suggestions. First, there is a typo in the list of materials. You don't need 2 "B" panels. It should only be 1. Also, I used 1/4-20 Threaded Inserts (www.amazon.com/dp/B07SSCF8Y4) instead of nuts for the knobs. Easier to install (no counter sinks needed) and easier to use (no nuts to fall out when you remove the knob). A good source of knobs is this jig hardware kit (www.amazon.com/dp/B07KQGTML7). It's always good to have lots of these knobs around for various jigs.
I like it!...great work
Thanks!
I love this build. Hope that one day i will find enought time to build something like that. That could be great if someone could invent similiar one with replaceable plexi patterns plates for multiple and various mortises.
How to make that tenon stick?
Great appliance! One oddity; you're right handed, but your face vice is set up for a lefty. I'm sure you have a good reason for that. ????
Amazing jig! Thanks for sharing!
SOLD!!!!!!!!
Great design and building instructions, Philip.
+Steve Collins thank you!
Thanks!!
Awesome!
One question. How do you make the "domino's" / connecting part ( dont know the englisch word)
The tenon :)
chiggymonkey yess thanks
+JW Kooi i usually just call it "tenon stock" I should probably make a video showing how but the simple process is to mill a board to the thickness and width of your mortise and use a round over router bit on the edges.
Philip Morley Furniture
Nice!
It seems your design may have been hijacked by a few other ‘tubers…. Cudo’s for your innovation!
👍 Spears
Why are there two items 'B' ?
I agree, David. I too have the plans which reference a quantity of two item "B" on sheet 8 of 8 and again in the Review plans. After viewing the video a second time I believe there should be only one item "B". Other than that pending question I think Philip's plans are very good. The design appears uncomplicated. I expect it to be agile and accurate in use.
I have just completed it and it works great. It's very accurate and you get extremely quick results. One suggestion . . . if you are finding difficulty stopping the top from binding in the runners whatever you do, even if each runner slides smoothly, sanding both surfaces (B and C) with 300+ and waxing it and the sides of the runners with Minwax Paste Finishing Wax solves the problem completely.
@@dacutler Thanks. I am getting excited to start the build after I complete some projects in progress!
Kinda like Tage Frid's
fantastic takes a texan
Thanks!!
Funny, you don't sound like you're from Texas.
Diz a sabedoria popular: "Uma imagem fala melhor do que mil palavras."
Você fala demais e mostra pouco.
👎🏻
carmonius posted your plan in 2019. Copy-cat