iFlight AOS5 didn't have to die like this!
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- Опубликовано: 10 июл 2024
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00:00:00 - I finally killed this quadcopter.
00:01:36 - BUT I WANTED TO FIX IT TODAY
00:02:09 - I hate plastic wire covers
00:04:06 - iFlight ELRS antennas are VERY durable
00:04:40 - Arm protectors held up pretty well
00:06:41 - Screws seem to work loose a LOT
00:07:15 - Comment on durability
00:08:21 - Removing the damaged ESC
00:09:26 - How to protect the new ESC
00:13:18 - Factory battery pad is NO GOOD
00:14:31 - No advantage to 12ga wire???
Why there isn't really any meaningful advantage to 12gauge wire - • Battery Wire Gauge | W...
My original review of the AOS5 BnF - • The best 5" freestyle ...
Awesome video JB as always! Love how you give every quad a fair run and don't completely hate on it or worship it.
had this XT60 ziptied as you said but with way longer wire , finally reassembled and its now from the back (pigtail) way better and reliable.
halo sir.joshua, i learn so much from you about setting fpv drone, thank you, im rookie but learning fast from every person, especially your knowledge about this awesome thing. thank you☺
IF you have it, I put Hysol 2 part epoxy glue on the arm tips. This protects them from delamination and also since it is slightly flexible it absorbs impacts. The best arms I have are 2 pieces of 3mm thick, glued together with the Hysol glue. The carbon is 4x4 twill weave throughout. No unidirectional carbon.
Brilliant video
With non-grippy battery straps such as the iFlight I will run a bead of E6000 along the inside to add some grip.
Perhaps making two or three holes in the pcb unit the PCB sandwitch at the gnd point adding wire (component leg) is enough to give rigidity and reuse. Of course, a new one is always better and simpler. Thanks for sharing your experience
i made some little cone washers from pla for my action cam mounts to stop the digging and ripping, i bet they would work here on these arm things, would give you a little skid too.
There is another fabric tape that is widely used in the automotive industry to bundle cable harnesses: TESA 51608. That's my number one for years, used it for custom harnesses in my sportscar when implementing a traction control system. As it is used by OEM car makers it has a great durability against chemicals, dirt, heat, UV light etc.. If you can get your hand on this kind, you do nothing wrong.
Industrial Velcro works best and always. Even dirty. About to assemble the same frame!
Awesome video
I like the 14 gague wire, it is more flexible and lighter. and a plus to solder it niceley to the ESC.
I love my loom tape. It's SOOO useful for... so many things! :)
I made a U shaped with cable toward camera and then back through hole and then also use zip tie. So I can also unscrew upper plate and put it to side without cutting zip tie. If i have to do something under hood. The pads are also not under stress when i plugging in battery. I like more to XT60 come out in the center.
I know it's an old video but I hope this helps somebody a bit. I design and print a lot of stuff, and what worked for my arm protectors is actually pretty simple: I print them standing on their inner end (so the side which faces the frame), standing upright (so the arm end part is pointing upward), and design the little sleeve (that goes on top of the arm, preventing the bending down) from bottom to top, so it's always supported by itself, no need for additional supports.
Also for the motor mounting issue: I design my protectors so in case of 4 point mounts 2 screws diagonally hold the protector (in case of 3 point I only use 1 screw for the mount, the 2 diagonal screws directly hold the motor), the other 2 holes on the protector are the same size as the head of the screw, so these directly hold the motors, no TPU between the arm and the screw. This solution together with the top sleeve works pretty well, I NEVER had an issue with my protectors since I do this.
Ohh and also I love to design screw holes in TPU to be pretty tight (for M3 I go down usually to 2.6-2.7mm diameter), so the screws doesn't just go through easily, you have to screw it into the TPU. Smaller hole -> smaller chance of screwhead getting through.
best frame by far
JB - I know you've got some E6000 glue around. It's perfect to dab a dot on the ends of the arm protectors to create an 'overhang' and also a dab of E6000 over the motor screws and TPU. Works wonders to help them not rip out of the TPU!
Look at the history and evolution of the AOS series. Amazing work in a very short period of time. Totally in love with the v2/EVO frames.
For me the durability of my AOS5 fleet is perfectly fine, crashed a lot and never had any issues!
I mount the same way, but I also put a heatshrink on a standoff, since its a metal, and securing the wire to it with a hotglue, then zip tying it.
thank you for your sharing
I solved this problem, UT "aos 5 accessories all"
FLIP THE TPU ARM GUARDS !!!!
Put them under the motors and sandwiched in between the frame and the motor mount.
You might have to take one from the right and put it on the left because the arm ends are not symmetrical.
I believe it will still work I don't have this frame.
You will also get vibration damping benefit.
But then bottom of the arm tip will get damaged when you hit or grind the arms for any reason.
Really surprised the components lasted 4 months...most of the iFlight esc's i've purchased have been DOA or spontaneously burst into flames. We were calling them iMight SucksAss Stacks because so many had fires and QC problems and iFlight Customer Service left the community hanging 🤷♂️
That small amount of overhang would be absolutely no problem to print. Especially in this design where those overhangs would be quite well supported and the overhang is quite thin. you would get some droopy bits on the underside, but it is tpu, it would just push out of the way as you insert it onto the carbon.
quadmula took the time to make those metal sleeves for the arm motor screws! also makes sense the solder joint on the esc came out. they use as little solder as possible for these BNF's
Love those inserts. I want them on all my quads now.
Okay. Awesome
Haven't seen the full video yet, but putting the battery cable out the rear seems like a much safer move than mouting the FC backwards and routing it out the front. It is a bit harder these days I guess with the bigger digital vtxs taking up that area in the back of the quad.
I wonder if it would be better to maybe put bigger VTXs in the middle area where the stack usually goes and the stack in the back where we currently put our VTXs...
3.15 Have you stopped using RED TAPE Joshua..?? What happened? Did Chris get to yah..? 😂😂
Groundpad should be easily fixed since you could repair the pcb by soldering to ground on the other side
Or coulda soldered it to that diode ... even less work
my TANQ suffered the same issue and I did just this to fix it. Soldering to ground on the other side works just fine!
Some wax string at the end of the arm with the right self cinching knot could solve the floppy arm protector issues but it would take a while to do.
On my AOS the screws worked loose and actually stripped the inside of a stand-off. So the standoff gave out before an arm broke. I have crashed quite a bit but always into trees, grass, and dirt. I was able to add longer screws but the arms have a bit of wobble if put some force into them. I would think that having more carbon under the frame would help the durability and take pressure off of the standoffs and screws. I’m now looking for a replacement because I also have props in view with my GoPro 11mini at a 15° angle.
i never fix the xt60 to carbon again, only to the standoffs! i always use button head screws on all of my frames, even though they look bulky. benefit is a bigger tool size and does not crack so fast. i replaced the standoffs from my AOS 7 V1 to the ones from amax. they have a collar on both ends. it adds just a few mm surface contact, but this will increase stability a lot in a crash, especially when you super tighten your battery. it will pull like crazy on the frame and every help is welcome. have to say i like the older AOS frame more than the new ones. the weight benefit is not that much, the loss of crash resistance way more. i watched all videos and explanations, but i think the newest designs are a marketing response to other cool new designs on the market. AOS V1 are stable. dont like the way how AOS solves the cam mounts, they are fragile too. this is the result when the designer does no hard bando and proxy, just sunday flights. just guessing (87%) no screw through holes for the stacks ist just annoying. WTF? Why not?
How does this compare to the flight characteristics of the Nazgul 5? Which do you prefer?
Hey. Love the videos I’m trying to get into FPV I’ve based most of my stuff off of your videos. I won’t to know if the speedybee stacks any good and if so what would be a good one
My AOS3 died today in an really not bad crash and I am really confused if I just had bad luck or it's generally not an durable frame , I thought it will be , but I love the Art of flying with the aos frame
Hi,
You could take the capacitor out, and solder the XT60 on that side of the board :)
A little overhang on the arm protectors would bridge fine assuming your bridge game is tuned.
Doesn't that new 4-in-1 esc have a capacitor? Is it different from the one you removed?
Is there a reason to not mount the TPU arm protectors on top of the arm between motor and arm?
That battery cable placement is my biggest gripe with this BNF. Every time you unplug you yank the esc, theres no good place to zip tie it down for support, and good luck getting a gopro in there if you want 15°+ camera tilt
so true! I was surprised iFlight would ship something so unpolished. A damage to their brand IMO. Also the short TBS antenna they ship it with is just ridiculous for range and penetration. I'm getting LOS failsafes almost.
Hi Josh, Yeah it's a shame that you have to throw out the ESC, but I don't know why you didn't zip-tied it to begin with, I have a Aura3.5 that the power leds will come out on the side, I end up damaging it and so I added extra wires to come out the back of the quad. I have no damage to the wires.
Built a TANQ with 2506. I see now that this could happen. XT60 mounts behind camera.
2506 on a 5" , how you like how it flys? Was thinking about doing that yet was worried it would kill my lipos
you don't need supports anymore if using the Prusa slicer. Anyway that overhang would be so short I'm quite sure it won't be a problem.
there are better arm guard print files available for sure. wrap around the arm parts for a proper fit./ also make the infill stronger/higher for those where the bolts go through.
I find it slightly odd that you didnt have a spare ESC on a shelf somewhere. Now i'm curious to see a vid of you showing us arround the storage of quads and spares you have :)
there are som nice arm guard thats snapon and printable without support on thingiverse, love them
JB's not even bragging about his super clean solder joints.
I always use a ziptie to avoid the power cables to be pulled out. I have probably seen it on a built video on yt many years ago to be honest.
Nylon washers on the motor screws.
Zip ties for secure the battery lead to the ESC.
Will see if that's what YOU do...at the end...but I figured it out before I destroyed an ESC. 😉
*****
Me from the future here: you need to make your zip-tie TIGHTER! 😳 Make it so tight the connector will pull apart before it rips off the ESC AGAIN?
Can you do an update video on hv lipos vs normal lipos? and the use cases for each?
I seem to be the only one putting velcro tape on the top plate and on all of my batteries. Then also use a Kevlar battery strap. Batteries will stop moving on you. That'll also prevent this.
Best idea for saving money and printed xt 60 protectors is nice. Hows the bambu holding up? Bardwell for best caretaking and price management advice. 😊
i also had an xt60 ground pad coming off on my 80 dollar fixed wing fc, very frustrating.
The arm protectors on the AOS 3.5 don't seem to have the same issues - nice snug fit and very well printed. Maybe being that bit smaller keeps it rigid enough.
It absolutely does mate 👍🤝
Apologies for the silly question, but why not soldering the wire back on?
There's some solid 3d print files floating around with a variety of fixes to the xt60 problem, just FYI lol
Quite a while... well what about that red electric tape that chris mocked you about 😂
I get the feeling a lot the harsher critiques must reflect Rosser’s opinions that he can’t say publicly for legal reasons or something… good thing his bro’s got his back.
Thanks for all the tips, Joshua! 😃
The only thing I usually do differently is that I first fix the wires with cable ties and then solder them. This way you won't have space to leave any tension on them.
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
There is way better design for landing arm protectors that doesnt tighten thru tpu/print. Search for - AOS 5 V2 snap-on arm guard - on thingiverse. They also dont bend like the ones the bnf is shipped with from the reviews and videos.
XT60 wire thru mid side of the frame to top battery is safe way and works OK.
First thing i did when i bought it put a new battery lead out the back 👍
put small tube through holes so you have some compression and then tight
can't mount the arm protectors in soft mounting fashion?
3-D printed motor protectors that slide over and lock on without screws holding them On, the hole should be bigger than the screw heads and they should hold on the arms like other quads do with 3-D printed protectors!
I used lil washers for my tpu legs on my drone
Look into KINFPV his motor TPU protect is very clever his is independent of those motor screws!!
Man I’ve got three quads that have had this happen to 😩
You said you don't run a gopro so why the excuse for the factory evo xt60?
And yes I really didn't expect this frame will break on an Arm and bottomplate just by dropping DISARMED from 1m height into grass
Hey Joshua, that tape is really good! There is another type that is just like that tape, but a little less fuzzy, but is quite a bit stronger. The original name of the stuff you have is called Tesa 51608. This stronger type is called Tesa 51036. Very interesting material that was made specifically to be abrasion/heat resistant for automotive wire harness looms. Not the lightest stuff, like emax cloth tape (or gaffer tape) but it is the strongest tape I have come across. Here are links that I found through your amazon affiliate, in case anyone wants to locate it.
www.amazon.com/Prime-Ave-Advanced-Compatible-Mercedes/dp/B09KHKX9Y5/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1ZZ52S0K6KQSO&keywords=tesa+51036&qid=1685727252&s=automotive&sprefix=tesa+51%2Cautomotive%2C309&sr=1-3
www.amazon.com/Original-Wiring-Harness-Adhesive-Fabric/dp/B01LYZDN2X/ref=sr_1_1?crid=UDQ3GINDHJO3&keywords=tesa+51608&qid=1685727363&s=automotive&sprefix=tesa+51%2Cautomotive%2C139&sr=1-1
Thanks for the links. Buying right now!
What ESC was chosen to be the replacement?
The same iFlight ESC.
actually you could solder power wire to the grid of ceramic capacitors
14:15 it’s unfortunate but it is part of the business plan
Fully agree with those stupid plastic motor wire 'protectors', I thought they'd be good so used them on a couple builds, but nope, they are trash.
I run 14awg on all my builds. 12 is just too stiff, too thick, and too hard to fit in tight spaces. (Snicker, get your mind out of the gutter!) But seriously, 14 awg makes builds so much easier and comes at virtually no downside.
I HATE battery leads out the side. I almost never run a gopro, and I am constantly afraid the power wires will get into the props, or short out on the frame.
Why are you using ELRS ? Not going with TBS CRSF again ??
I haven't put crossfire in a personal bird in over a year.
Am i the only one using velcro under my batteries and on the frame to help hold them in place, also the velcro strap ofc.
They could use a firmer tpu
Funny how the power lead is running up through the frame again…. Over the years we’ve learned that zip tied out the side is best
Joshua, I left a comment which may have been auto blocked. It contained an imgur link to some photos of the solutions I came up with to solve the AOS XT60 problem.
And yes I didn't like the Prints the frame came with and I am pretty happy with the cult 3d Version of protection
Mr bardwell put 1 layer of duct tape around the stupid plastic motor wire guards. It stops the exploding, and cutting stuff. Exactly like car front windows.
TBS version of this kwad ships with the same antenna size and it sucks. Can't fly 200m away without getting low signal warnings.
Hot glue secures feet. Restraint for power on all my quads.
Don't esc's have another set of xt60 lead pads on the other side
Nevermind the other side of that esc is just a cap
someone forgot their audio lowpass filter (or is charging batteries in the background) 😂😘
You could have moved the original flight controller to the front stack holes, and used a 30x30 ESC, no?
The motor wires are already cut to length.
@@JoshuaBardwell But wouldn’t a 30x30 ESC be large enough that the cut motor wires wouldn’t be an issue? If anything I would expect the motor wires to need further cutting down if you swapped to a larger ESC.
re esc: i do not believe you dont have a spare lying around that would work.... as a sufferer, i understand ocd gets you every time to order a match. ps. durability a non issue, i dont critique a subaru for denting easily, its generally accepted a subaru dents
It also does not come with gps unfortunately. So I’m canceling my order lol I totally forgot about that
Its a simple strap issue.. get versa straps they never slip or break its lile tyre rubber...
oh if you don't want it can I have the ESC! I know have to fix it
wow - I thought that I was the only one who used tape...
God damn Chris Rosser did this?
Just super glew the arm guards
Those plastic covers for the motor wires really are the absolute worst.
This exact thing happened with my aos 5. So infuriating
POv you wait hole video to see zip tie on battery lead.
😢I wanted to see you spank this baby after the fix 😁👍🏻I put a zip tie on all my battery leads even my tiny whoops lol✌🏼
Typical Bardwell, fixing an entire companies “problem” by thinking up a solution in 5 seconds and expecting them to address the issues because YOU had a problem with it. Must be nice sir!