Great video. I agree with everything although as I do like some of the in-camera film simulations from Fuji and Ricoh (image control) for straight out of camera posting I use RAW+JPEG. You guys are a great duo! Love it!😊
Good video. I've turned on "Rule of thirds grid lines" on my Sony cameras. It not only provides a gridline for rule of thirds, but also helps with keeping the camera horizontal. Otherwise, I agree with you both. I only show the minimum values in my display.
I also turn the sounds off, but what I would really like is a way to *keep* the self timer sound while all others are turned off! It is so handy to hear the self timer "beep", especially if you are outdoors and cannot see the blinking LED.
I don’t argue with people who prefer shooting raw, but I prefer shoot to JPGs, because I usually shoot hundreds of photos at games or events, sometimes 1000-2000, and as you said, JPGs are very good these days. I like the much smaller file size. I’ve also noticed that JPGs seem to have more latitude for adjustment than 10 years ago, but maybe it’s my imagination. It’s fun to see both of you in the same video! Thanks, guys.
Funny, I change the same settings as you both whenever I buy a new camera, once I have it charged up then I dive into the menus to make those changes before I go out and shoot. "My Menu" is great, I use it frequently for format, file format, aspect ratio, etc, very handy. Great video guys.
That's funny that you both want the level on because I need something to help me keep level too these days but the electronic level really annoys me so I just turn one of the grids on instead. I find those vertical and horizontal grid lines less distracting but still easy to check if I'm level. Also sometimes there are situations where "level" with the ground can make your image look crooked so leveling an upright object in your image can actually look more level. Hope that makes sense 😄
Awesome! Every settings but shutter setting are the same as mine! because I have no knowledge about shutter yet hahaha. I'm happy to watch you guys video :)
Nice video. But I was once at an event taking pictures of couples who were waiting on a line for me to photograph them. In several instances, the instant review allowed me to see that one or both of the couple had blinked at the moment of exposure. So I retook the photo and assured that their eyes were open. 😄
The very first thing I always change is the file size/resolution. Why cameras come preset without the highest level of resolution selected as a mystery to me.
Raw+Jpg is my preference. I don't like spending time post-processing. But the thing to change is the Jpg quality, sometimes by default it is low, you have to change it. The EVF/LCD info., I like it. Sometimes I forget I have changed white balance or something like that, it is nice to see an icon so I can turn it off. I often photograph with the electronic shutter only. But I agree it can be annoying if you need to use flash, sometimes I wonder why my flash is not working! The things I do when I first get a new camera is mostly to configure the buttons. I didn't get the thing about ISO, usually that's already mapped to a button. I assign other things, such as metering for example. On my GX9 I've spent a lot of time configuring and reconfiguring the quick menu and buttons, physical and soft. I am always looking for the best combo 🙂
I have three Olympus Pen cameras, E-PL3, 6 and 8. For each of them I have assigned right arrow button for ISO instead of controlling flash. I use flash very seldom anyway. I have also assigned down arrow buttons of all three cameras for changing the WB. I shoot Raw too. Language settings I set to finnish of course. :) I also switch electronic level on to get my images straight. E-PL3 doesn't have it. With it I show Shadow/Highlight instead.
I change from single to continuous autofocus and from single frame to continuous. Vital for shooting moving subjects and with digital, why ever restrict yourself to one photo? Select the best from several in editing
Hi Robin. You mentioned first curtain electronic shutter. Though I believe in some Olympus cameras like OMD E-M5 iii, there is no need to that. Since the camera automatically switched to first curtain electronic shutter below certain shutter speeds. Isn't it right?
One recent addition to my settings is to activate Catch In Focus. This is perfect for old manual lenses, but also for shooting certain sporting events automatically.
Need to be sure the leveling indicator is calibrated correctly. I have one camera that the “ level” indication always gives an image with horizon sloping to the right.
Does using first curtain shutter put a top end limit on the shutter speed that can be used ? Don't use it when shooting a flying Humming bird for example. This was an informative vid - hearing your different takes on the same camera setting, ect
@@mattisulanto The O.E. manual says, ' When using 1st curtain shutter the camera - G9 - limits the shutter speed to 1/2000.' So for most subjects this isn't a problem. Now I know.
the newest camera in my collection is the pen-F, which is more than 5 years old. not sure if the autofocus is good enough to drop the autofocus assist light.
Thank you so much for your very informative video as usual. While I think I do understand what you guys are saying, I guess you shoot your Fuji X cameras in JPEG :). Actually if you happen to have a Pentax K-7, I believe you always use SOOC.... You set your ISO at 1250 and you carry an ND filter or two.... because you want to have the noise.... (You turn off the noise reduction.)
@@mattisulanto Thank you sooo much for your response! File format: JPEG ISO auto sensitivity limit: 200-1600 D-range highlight correction: On D-range shadow correction: off (default) High-ISO noise reduction: off Under the image finishing tone, Vibrant, Contrast adjustment: 0 (default) Contrast highlight adjustment: -2 Contrast shadow adjustment: +3 Sharpness: switch to the "fine sharpness 2", then +1
Well my settings are easy; just about everything is turned off. I still set my camera like a film camera (oh dear, I started photography in 1957, my Brownie had a shutter button and a filter slotted through the lens to control bright weather). Normally I have ISO 400 because it gives the same settings as the film stock I used and I will turn it up to 1600 or 3200 in the dark. I always have the camera set to Program mode and control DoF using the back control wheel with my thumb; like most street photographers of my generation its a habit picked up from using a Mamiya TLR with the aperture and speed controls locked together once the exposure was set; we had to use a hand held meter so once you took the exposure you didnt want to keep changing it as you changed aperture. I always set RAW + JPG; for workflow I use JPG to select the photos and process the RAW; I am a simple creature. Centre focus single shot (I dont want a hard drive full of copies of the same photo). Sophisticated focussing modes and multishot? I used to take wildlife with a manual tele lens most of my life so dont need sophistication. What I care about is image quality and frankly I find advances in cameras recently are ghastly. I absolutely hate software correction; if a lens requires it I dont buy it. Only game changers that impress me are basic AF (I dont require anything better) and IBIS.
My first camera, a box Brownie had a side lever shutter and a foxed mirror viewfinder. A slide with holes for aperture. Needless to say it was far from new when I was given it and now adorns a shelf. I don't have to collect cameras ... I can stop any time I want ;) My second, a Bakelite Brownie disappeared into the void. Now I wish cameras had a slide to control weather.
Level gauge? Our balance and judging what is level is largely governed by our ears not our eyes (they're connected to the same processor unit). It's not just the semi-circular canals but our actual hearing too. My old colleague lost his sense of balance to the extent that he could no longer ride a bicycle, until he fixed his own hearing aids (clever chap) and got his balance back.
These joint videos are joyous guys. Maybe this isn't relevant as its a setting I use rather than something I just switch on or off : The ability to set a minimum shutter speed when shooting in AP mode with auto ISO on cameras like the Pana G9 & GX9. For me this is the most useful feature of any camera along with IBIS. I wonder if either of you can tell me if any Olympus cameras have this feature? Keep up the gd work.
Settings? Difficult to formulate so I will only mention where perhaps different to Matti and Robin. Photostyle/Picture Mode or whatever your camera calls them. I swap between them regularly. They change colour balance and tonal qualities. They do alter gain and that alters exposure value. Within them are customisable settings I customise. Notably the NR, it is usually too aggressive so I drop it a notch. NR is a selective gain, it can add artefacts, a little less can be smoother. This is fine at sensible ISO. WB - AWB is not always the best thing, you will notice colours change. You'll maybe notice that the higher end cameras have dedicated WB, ISO and +/- buttons, usually by the shutter for this purpose. Initially I wondered why they put them there, then I started using them. Exposure compensation, the +/-EV, on the fly esp backlit. Best if there is a dedicated dial. The other one I like to flip is the metering mode, Ollie are poor at doing this quickly and have to go through the SCP, they will not let it be put on a button. Highlight-Shadow, this is a gain curve to play with. It can compress the DR, reduce blow-out, detail shadow, and improve mid contrast. Typically -1, +1, +2, but moveable feast. The DR reduces as the ISO goes up, this can recover detail that would otherwise be lost, esp backlit. I dislike my nose or cheek moving the focus point about so I turn that touch function off. The tap it like a mobile phone is simply annoying. I can use buttons or joystick if I need to move the focus point on the fly. Lock focus on the subject and still holding half shutter, reframe the shot and shoot (much as we did with film except the half shutter also locks the AE as well as the AF). AF-ping! But quietest setting. I like to know it has got AF-lock. But this can disturb birds and wildlife, so then it is turned off (my menu). A 'silent mode' will put a camera into electronic shutter, which I probably do not want. All the other silly sounds, clicks, ding-dong chimes, wheezes and grunts, are turned off. The Red Button. The 'Record' button. This is the normal button to use to record video. But you are going to get settings for stills pictures, there are a lot of settings that will need changing. This is what the Custom Memory or 'My Set' slots are for. Save your favoured stills setting to Custom, modify it for video and re-save to custom. Video usually wants Manual mode with fixed ISO so the exposure value doesn't change whilst shooting. AdobeRGB or sRGB? AdobeRGB is probably wanted for stacking astrophotography images but if you send AdobeRGB to the local newspaper the printed picture will look utterly disgusting (the muppets don't proof check). Your monitor probably cannot handle AdobeRGB, nor anyone viewing it on the interweb, nor typical inkjet printers, it is intended for silk-screen printed coffee table books. If you edit in AdobeRGB and then compress to sRGB, you have to fix the colour gamut again. sRGB (except maybe astro).
I use silent shutter as a default, as I almost never shoot sport or fast action. By the way a new high-end Nikon has no mechanical shutter. I guess that is the future with very fast stacked sensors, so no more satisfying clicks!
Very informative video. I have a EM10 MarkII and a EM1 MarkII. What does the EFC / anti-shock symbol look like on the super control panel for each camera ? Didn't see a picture of it in your video. Thanks
Raw+jpeg. Why? 1) A lot of converters (usual suspects) still have problems converting Extended-raw files, Olympus, Panasonic, and Fujifilm especially but not exclusively. Hence a good jpeg will often be better than the converted raw (initially). It is difficult to get a converter/editor to reproduce the tones and nuances of the camera's jpeg. The camera has a very powerful processing engine attuned to that particular camera. 2) Pretty much any and all changes you make to 'shoot the jpeg' alter the exposure value, and that will alter the raw exposure value. Things like Picture Mode, Photostyle, WB, NR, etc etc. What you see in the electronic view is what you are going to get, and that shows the jpeg. It is not always the same as when you review it on the monitor (chimp) so it is occasionally worth reviewing to check you are getting what you expected (yes I have the auto-review turned off, push the playback button). We set the camera view to show the image we are going to get: it's not always the same settings; we twiddle knobs and push buttons. They will change the exposure value. If the jpeg is rubbish, the raw will be too. If the jpeg is good, the raw may be superfluous (it has to be converted anyway). Workflow time is a consideration here too. 3) Raw take up a lot of file space and get purged if I have not used them after a while. Jpeg are small enough to keep. I have digital picture files dating back to 2000 and scans of film/neg from before that (and still occasionally now). That runs to, well, terabytes of hard disk, plus backup and cloud. Many bad photos get deleted but sifting them all is time consuming. Make sure you keep the keepers.
In my older Pen cameras I can't choose anti-shock 0 sec. I have used 1/8s instead. It means small shutter delay but in those photos I usually take this is not critical. What do you think about using anti-shock 1/8s?
You did not mention something I still have not found a good answer to. How do you set the Raw quality? Do you use sRGB or Adode RGB and why? I change my cameras to Adobe RGB because I want the highest quality to edit and I want what I think is supposed to be something with more color space.
The camera color space does not matter for RAW, it only matters for the live view and the review picture that you see on the camera screen. The RAW file is always the same regardless of the chosen color space.
I gotta have that autofocus beep. For the reason he wants to hear the shutter I want to hear the autofocus confirmation. I want zero shutter sound and one of many reasons I like the leaf shutter on my x100v. I need a one second instant review keeps me from chimping
It can change the bokeh with fast aperture lenses shot wide open, but that depends on the camera and the lens. In most cases there is no difference between mechanical shutter and EFC. You should test it if you have fast primes.
Not the topic you asked for comments on, but here is a question for the two of you (that might have been addressed in a video several years ago that I have not seen). How and when did the two of you first meet? Also collab videos can be very interesting and "fun" and I know that occassionally you and Peter also collaborate on vids 👍.
We met first in 2014 when I was traveling around South East Asia and came to KL. I have visited KL several times after that. So, we have known each others long before we started on RUclips. I occasionally collaborate with Peter, because we both live in Helsinki.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Two videos back to back with me and Matti! What fun we had filming this, hope everyone else enjoys these videos too!
Yeah, we sure had fun and there might be some more of theses coming.
Great video. I agree with everything although as I do like some of the in-camera film simulations from Fuji and Ricoh (image control) for straight out of camera posting I use RAW+JPEG. You guys are a great duo! Love it!😊
Two RUclips guys from the humble mft space. Good to see you happy and thriving
Thank you.
lovely to see you guys together . fabulous . Thanks !
Our pleasure!
Good video. I've turned on "Rule of thirds grid lines" on my Sony cameras. It not only provides a gridline for rule of thirds, but also helps with keeping the camera horizontal. Otherwise, I agree with you both. I only show the minimum values in my display.
Thanks for sharing.
I also turn the sounds off, but what I would really like is a way to *keep* the self timer sound while all others are turned off! It is so handy to hear the self timer "beep", especially if you are outdoors and cannot see the blinking LED.
Great idea.
Good to see you two together in KL again. Thanks
Our pleasure!
I don’t argue with people who prefer shooting raw, but I prefer shoot to JPGs, because I usually shoot hundreds of photos at games or events, sometimes 1000-2000, and as you said, JPGs are very good these days. I like the much smaller file size. I’ve also noticed that JPGs seem to have more latitude for adjustment than 10 years ago, but maybe it’s my imagination. It’s fun to see both of you in the same video! Thanks, guys.
Thanks guys. I’ve been watching you both for years and thankfully I am able to check off as “done” all of your recommendations. Good show.
Thank you so much.
Great video guys! Nice to see the two of you together.
Thanks 👍
Funny, I change the same settings as you both whenever I buy a new camera, once I have it charged up then I dive into the menus to make those changes before I go out and shoot.
"My Menu" is great, I use it frequently for format, file format, aspect ratio, etc, very handy.
Great video guys.
Thanks so much for watching.
Thank you gentlemen for a very informative video.
Thank you for stopping by.
Enjoy your videos. you blokes look like your having a great time. cheers.
Thanks. We are having just that😀
You two have good chemistry
Thanks.
If you miss your shot, don’t blame the camera! Best tip!
Thanks.
Love the many thought bubbles over Robin's head in the first minute of the video. Always thinking about over priced coffee, haha
Thanks.
Two of my favorite photographers!!! Thanks
Our pleasure!
Thank you to you both. This was a very informative post of yours.
Our pleasure!
That's funny that you both want the level on because I need something to help me keep level too these days but the electronic level really annoys me so I just turn one of the grids on instead. I find those vertical and horizontal grid lines less distracting but still easy to check if I'm level. Also sometimes there are situations where "level" with the ground can make your image look crooked so leveling an upright object in your image can actually look more level. Hope that makes sense 😄
Thank you.
Awesome! Every settings but shutter setting are the same as mine! because I have no knowledge about shutter yet hahaha. I'm happy to watch you guys video :)
Thanks so much.
Nice video. But I was once at an event taking pictures of couples who were waiting on a line for me to photograph them. In several instances, the instant review allowed me to see that one or both of the couple had blinked at the moment of exposure. So I retook the photo and assured that their eyes were open. 😄
Thanks. Good to hear it works for you.
Well worth the wait.
Thank you.
THE Good Guys! More from both of you...
Thanks.
Good recommendations fellas, supported by good reasons as to why…
Thank you.
I leave the histogram on as well as horizon indicator.
Thanks.
You two make nice videos. It reminds me of you and Peter.
Thanks my friend.
The very first thing I always change is the file size/resolution. Why cameras come preset without the highest level of resolution selected as a mystery to me.
Thanks. Another great tip.
Raw+Jpg is my preference. I don't like spending time post-processing. But the thing to change is the Jpg quality, sometimes by default it is low, you have to change it.
The EVF/LCD info., I like it. Sometimes I forget I have changed white balance or something like that, it is nice to see an icon so I can turn it off.
I often photograph with the electronic shutter only. But I agree it can be annoying if you need to use flash, sometimes I wonder why my flash is not working!
The things I do when I first get a new camera is mostly to configure the buttons. I didn't get the thing about ISO, usually that's already mapped to a button. I assign other things, such as metering for example. On my GX9 I've spent a lot of time configuring and reconfiguring the quick menu and buttons, physical and soft. I am always looking for the best combo 🙂
Thanks. Sometimes the preprogrammed ISO button is not the right button and ISO is never preprogrammed to a dial.
Back button focusing!!
I have three Olympus Pen cameras, E-PL3, 6 and 8. For each of them I have assigned right arrow button for ISO instead of controlling flash. I use flash very seldom anyway. I have also assigned down arrow buttons of all three cameras for changing the WB. I shoot Raw too. Language settings I set to finnish of course. :)
I also switch electronic level on to get my images straight. E-PL3 doesn't have it. With it I show Shadow/Highlight instead.
Thanks for sharing.
I change from single to continuous autofocus and from single frame to continuous. Vital for shooting moving subjects and with digital, why ever restrict yourself to one photo? Select the best from several in editing
Thanks.
Hi Robin. You mentioned first curtain electronic shutter. Though I believe in some Olympus cameras like OMD E-M5 iii, there is no need to that. Since the camera automatically switched to first curtain electronic shutter below certain shutter speeds. Isn't it right?
It's not automatic, you have turn it on manually. Robin said it's hidden, so please take a look at the user manual.
One recent addition to my settings is to activate Catch In Focus. This is perfect for old manual lenses, but also for shooting certain sporting events automatically.
Thanks for sharing.
Need to be sure the leveling indicator is calibrated correctly. I have one camera that the “ level” indication always gives an image with horizon sloping to the right.
Thanks for the tip.
Does using first curtain shutter put a top end limit on the shutter speed that can be used ? Don't use it when shooting a flying Humming bird for example. This was an informative vid - hearing your different takes on the same camera setting, ect
Thanks. I don't think there is any shutter speed limit, but check your camera user manual to make sure.
@@mattisulanto The O.E. manual says, ' When using 1st curtain shutter the camera - G9 - limits the shutter speed to 1/2000.' So for most subjects this isn't a problem. Now I know.
the newest camera in my collection is the pen-F, which is more than 5 years old. not sure if the autofocus is good enough to drop the autofocus assist light.
You have to test and find out how it works.
Thank you so much for your very informative video as usual. While I think I do understand what you guys are saying, I guess you shoot your Fuji X cameras in JPEG :). Actually if you happen to have a Pentax K-7, I believe you always use SOOC.... You set your ISO at 1250 and you carry an ND filter or two.... because you want to have the noise.... (You turn off the noise reduction.)
Thanks. Especially the Pentax part is true😀
@@mattisulanto Thank you sooo much for your response!
File format: JPEG
ISO auto sensitivity limit: 200-1600
D-range highlight correction: On
D-range shadow correction: off (default)
High-ISO noise reduction: off
Under the image finishing tone, Vibrant,
Contrast adjustment: 0 (default)
Contrast highlight adjustment: -2
Contrast shadow adjustment: +3
Sharpness: switch to the "fine sharpness 2", then +1
Well my settings are easy; just about everything is turned off. I still set my camera like a film camera (oh dear, I started photography in 1957, my Brownie had a shutter button and a filter slotted through the lens to control bright weather). Normally I have ISO 400 because it gives the same settings as the film stock I used and I will turn it up to 1600 or 3200 in the dark. I always have the camera set to Program mode and control DoF using the back control wheel with my thumb; like most street photographers of my generation its a habit picked up from using a Mamiya TLR with the aperture and speed controls locked together once the exposure was set; we had to use a hand held meter so once you took the exposure you didnt want to keep changing it as you changed aperture. I always set RAW + JPG; for workflow I use JPG to select the photos and process the RAW; I am a simple creature. Centre focus single shot (I dont want a hard drive full of copies of the same photo). Sophisticated focussing modes and multishot? I used to take wildlife with a manual tele lens most of my life so dont need sophistication. What I care about is image quality and frankly I find advances in cameras recently are ghastly. I absolutely hate software correction; if a lens requires it I dont buy it. Only game changers that impress me are basic AF (I dont require anything better) and IBIS.
Thanks. Modern cameras sure have almost spoilt us with all the comfort features.
My first camera, a box Brownie had a side lever shutter and a foxed mirror viewfinder. A slide with holes for aperture. Needless to say it was far from new when I was given it and now adorns a shelf. I don't have to collect cameras ... I can stop any time I want ;)
My second, a Bakelite Brownie disappeared into the void. Now I wish cameras had a slide to control weather.
Level gauge? Our balance and judging what is level is largely governed by our ears not our eyes (they're connected to the same processor unit). It's not just the semi-circular canals but our actual hearing too. My old colleague lost his sense of balance to the extent that he could no longer ride a bicycle, until he fixed his own hearing aids (clever chap) and got his balance back.
Thanks for sharing.
These joint videos are joyous guys. Maybe this isn't relevant as its a setting I use rather than something I just switch on or off : The ability to set a minimum shutter speed when shooting in AP mode with auto ISO on cameras like the Pana G9 & GX9. For me this is the most useful feature of any camera along with IBIS. I wonder if either of you can tell me if any Olympus cameras have this feature? Keep up the gd work.
Thanks. I have to forward this to Robin, because I don't know current Olympus cameras so well.
@@mattisulanto cheers Matti much appreciated
Settings? Difficult to formulate so I will only mention where perhaps different to Matti and Robin.
Photostyle/Picture Mode or whatever your camera calls them. I swap between them regularly. They change colour balance and tonal qualities. They do alter gain and that alters exposure value. Within them are customisable settings I customise. Notably the NR, it is usually too aggressive so I drop it a notch. NR is a selective gain, it can add artefacts, a little less can be smoother. This is fine at sensible ISO.
WB - AWB is not always the best thing, you will notice colours change. You'll maybe notice that the higher end cameras have dedicated WB, ISO and +/- buttons, usually by the shutter for this purpose. Initially I wondered why they put them there, then I started using them.
Exposure compensation, the +/-EV, on the fly esp backlit. Best if there is a dedicated dial.
The other one I like to flip is the metering mode, Ollie are poor at doing this quickly and have to go through the SCP, they will not let it be put on a button.
Highlight-Shadow, this is a gain curve to play with. It can compress the DR, reduce blow-out, detail shadow, and improve mid contrast. Typically -1, +1, +2, but moveable feast. The DR reduces as the ISO goes up, this can recover detail that would otherwise be lost, esp backlit.
I dislike my nose or cheek moving the focus point about so I turn that touch function off. The tap it like a mobile phone is simply annoying. I can use buttons or joystick if I need to move the focus point on the fly. Lock focus on the subject and still holding half shutter, reframe the shot and shoot (much as we did with film except the half shutter also locks the AE as well as the AF).
AF-ping! But quietest setting. I like to know it has got AF-lock. But this can disturb birds and wildlife, so then it is turned off (my menu). A 'silent mode' will put a camera into electronic shutter, which I probably do not want. All the other silly sounds, clicks, ding-dong chimes, wheezes and grunts, are turned off.
The Red Button. The 'Record' button. This is the normal button to use to record video. But you are going to get settings for stills pictures, there are a lot of settings that will need changing. This is what the Custom Memory or 'My Set' slots are for. Save your favoured stills setting to Custom, modify it for video and re-save to custom. Video usually wants Manual mode with fixed ISO so the exposure value doesn't change whilst shooting.
AdobeRGB or sRGB? AdobeRGB is probably wanted for stacking astrophotography images but if you send AdobeRGB to the local newspaper the printed picture will look utterly disgusting (the muppets don't proof check). Your monitor probably cannot handle AdobeRGB, nor anyone viewing it on the interweb, nor typical inkjet printers, it is intended for silk-screen printed coffee table books. If you edit in AdobeRGB and then compress to sRGB, you have to fix the colour gamut again. sRGB (except maybe astro).
Thanks for your extensive settings guide.
I use silent shutter as a default, as I almost never shoot sport or fast action. By the way a new high-end Nikon has no mechanical shutter. I guess that is the future with very fast stacked sensors, so no more satisfying clicks!
Thanks. That's the future without doubt and we have to listen to some synthetic shutter sound.
Very informative video. I have a EM10 MarkII and a EM1 MarkII. What does the EFC / anti-shock symbol look like on the super control panel for each camera ? Didn't see a picture of it in your video. Thanks
I have to forward this to Robin. However, you can find the same info in the user manual.
◇=antishock, ♡=silent mode
@@TheSannaeriksson Thanks !!!
@@TheSannaeriksson Thanks so much.
Raw+jpeg. Why?
1) A lot of converters (usual suspects) still have problems converting Extended-raw files, Olympus, Panasonic, and Fujifilm especially but not exclusively. Hence a good jpeg will often be better than the converted raw (initially). It is difficult to get a converter/editor to reproduce the tones and nuances of the camera's jpeg. The camera has a very powerful processing engine attuned to that particular camera.
2) Pretty much any and all changes you make to 'shoot the jpeg' alter the exposure value, and that will alter the raw exposure value. Things like Picture Mode, Photostyle, WB, NR, etc etc. What you see in the electronic view is what you are going to get, and that shows the jpeg. It is not always the same as when you review it on the monitor (chimp) so it is occasionally worth reviewing to check you are getting what you expected (yes I have the auto-review turned off, push the playback button). We set the camera view to show the image we are going to get: it's not always the same settings; we twiddle knobs and push buttons. They will change the exposure value. If the jpeg is rubbish, the raw will be too. If the jpeg is good, the raw may be superfluous (it has to be converted anyway). Workflow time is a consideration here too.
3) Raw take up a lot of file space and get purged if I have not used them after a while. Jpeg are small enough to keep. I have digital picture files dating back to 2000 and scans of film/neg from before that (and still occasionally now). That runs to, well, terabytes of hard disk, plus backup and cloud. Many bad photos get deleted but sifting them all is time consuming. Make sure you keep the keepers.
Thanks for that interesting info.
In my older Pen cameras I can't choose anti-shock 0 sec. I have used 1/8s instead. It means small shutter delay but in those photos I usually take this is not critical. What do you think about using anti-shock 1/8s?
I have to forward this to Robin.
You did not mention something I still have not found a good answer to. How do you set the Raw quality? Do you use sRGB or Adode RGB and why? I change my cameras to Adobe RGB because I want the highest quality to edit and I want what I think is supposed to be something with more color space.
The camera color space does not matter for RAW, it only matters for the live view and the review picture that you see on the camera screen. The RAW file is always the same regardless of the chosen color space.
I gotta have that autofocus beep. For the reason he wants to hear the shutter I want to hear the autofocus confirmation.
I want zero shutter sound and one of many reasons I like the leaf shutter on my x100v.
I need a one second instant review keeps me from chimping
Thanks for sharing your favorite settings.
First electronic curtain causes uneven exposure and modifies the bokeh. This is noticable at high shutter speeds.
It can change the bokeh with fast aperture lenses shot wide open, but that depends on the camera and the lens. In most cases there is no difference between mechanical shutter and EFC. You should test it if you have fast primes.
Silent shutter….I hate attracting attention and it keeps the shutter count down should I wish to sell the camera in the future…❤
Thanks.
Not the topic you asked for comments on, but here is a question for the two of you (that might have been addressed in a video several years ago that I have not seen). How and when did the two of you first meet?
Also collab videos can be very interesting and "fun" and I know that occassionally you and Peter also collaborate on vids 👍.
We met first in 2014 when I was traveling around South East Asia and came to KL. I have visited KL several times after that. So, we have known each others long before we started on RUclips. I occasionally collaborate with Peter, because we both live in Helsinki.