Duramax LML Burning Oil After Head Studs. Don't Make This Mistake! (READ DESCRIPTION)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 25 июл 2022
- UPDATE: The tool that I show in the video on the Freedom Racing website is the wrong one. That tool is for pre-2010 Duramax engines. The tool you need is "EN-49761" (the same tool listed in the TSB).
Duramax LML would blue smoke after extended idle. Just got done doing head gaskets. The machine shop is to blame on this one.
tags: Duramax LML burning oil
Duramax LML leaking valve stem seals 
Авто/Мото
IMPORTANT: PLEASE READ VIDEO DESCRIPTION
One of the best videos on RUclips I have ever seen. Thanks for the share of knowledge 👍
Ouch, thanks for this information though, could save someone major headaches.
Thank you! Same issue I have to the T! Question though. Can these be replaced with the cab on and heads on or do the heads gotta come off?
I HIGHLY recommend pulling the cab! The heads can stay on. That's how I did it. Just put piston at TDC so the valves can't fall into the cylinder.
I have a '11 lml that's using 3qts every 3k with oil residue on the tailpipe! It's a blackwater reman. Do you think blackwater made that same mistake?
It's very possible. I doubt most rebuilders know about this. Most of them have installed thousands upon thousands of valve seals so why read the instructions this time?
i have same exact issue on my lbz that i just did headgaskets and headstuds on and had heads done at shop they put new springs and valve seals and surfaced i bet this is my problem really dont want to pull motor again i just put it in what valve spring compressor did you use? when i look in the exhaust ports at valves i can see oil all over some of them so im thinking this is my issue I wonder if the lbz ones can be pushed to far on to like the lml?
The LBZ is a completely different animal so this video might not apply. If you search my channel for valve spring compressor I have a short showing how I compressed mine.
I just pulled my valve covers and I have a like 6 valve seals that are split like the spring part it up on valve and the pressed part is on head
@@THORRACING1 sounds like the very top of the valve guide (which could be sharp if it doesn't have a radius done on the edge) made contact with the rubber seal effectively cutting the seal off of the metal seal retainer. If that is the case then it's very likely the valve seals were installed too far just like they were on this LML. I would check the service information for the correct procedure and see if the tool # matches what is shown in this video.
@@TechnicianRed ok thank you
@@TechnicianRed should I use like maybe heat shrink on top of valve when installing new seals so don't risk cutting seal on top of valve if it is sharp ?
Hoping someone can reply to this soon. I have the same issue and am about to remove springs to access seals. How do you keep the valves from falling into the cylinders?
Put the piston at TDC. The piston gets extremely close to the valves and won't let them fall more than about 1/8".
@TechnicianRed thanks a lot. I'm doing this while the engine is in the truck, and I'm on the cylinder furthest back on the passenger side. All of the seals were all the way down, and 3 of them were actually parted, so this is my problem. Another issue I ran into was this, I dropped a valve keeper down the oil passage that sends oil back down to pan. I'm guessing this will just stay in the pan and can't cause damage. What do you think? I appreciate your help.
I'm hoping that if I do I have to go looking for it, it lines up with the lower oil pan.
@@deansheppard6812 yeah the keeper can't be sucked up past the oil pump pickup tube screen so you should be good. Next time you change the oil take a 90 degree borescope and find it in the pan then try to fish it out with a flexible magnet.
Did this burn any noticeable amount of oil?
I ask because I had my head gaskets replaced but it is burning oil, about two courts every oil change or maybe a little more. Get a puff of blue smoke when I accelerate from idle, but there is zero blow-by and the turbo downpipe looks great like the one in the video. Unfortunately I bought the truck with the blown gaskets, (didn't know better) and do not know if it used oil prior to the head gaskets being replaced. It is driving me nuts and the shop doesn't seem to know why it is burning oil either. Cannot imagine the valve seals would cause the truck to burn much oil but who knows, my truck is a 2015 LML.
@@kruegermotorsports01 I'm not sure how much oil it was actually consuming as we warrantied this job when it had less than about 3K miles on it so not enough drive time to really know. But from the amount of blue smoke it had I would imagine 1 quart every 1-2K miles would probably be about right.
I'm burning a gallon between oil changes. I'm into my job now and have already found 3 valves on one cylinder with parted valve seals.
I still don’t understand how the ARP head studs caused the guy to put the seals on to far. I don’t see how it was the studs fault
Of course it wasn't the studs fault. I never said it was the studs fault.
@@TechnicianRed Sorry I misunderstood
That sucks!