For ambering using artists oils, try Cadmium Yellow Hue, only using a very small amount. Or, Yellow Ochre, or Raw Sienna. Look at them in the store, and select one to test. Pick up a piece of Maple, sand it to 220, then start with a few very thin coats. If the test board comes out the coloring you are after, then apply it to the neck. Coat it several times with uncolored tru-oil afterwards to lock the color in, and then lightly scuff it with 0000 steel wool to smooth it out for playing.
If you try and color the oil at this point, apply it over the existing oil finish on the violin, and use a very small amount of coloring so you can build up coats over time until the color you like shows up. Its much easier to go lighter and sneak up on the coloring rather than go too dark. I've never used the oldwood1700 so I can't say how well it would work or not, but many violins have been finished with tru-oil before.
You can, and Birchwood Casey (the same company that makes tru-oil) sells a sealer made specifically for going under tru-oil. I have used it once, and I can't tell the difference other than a smooth surface to apply the oil. When you go with oil on wood with open grain you will have little pits, which I like the look of. If you use the sanding dealer you can sand it all level and apply the oil over the smooth surface. Best of luck.
thank you so much for your video, i am building a les paul kit, and have been trying to find a method of doing a burst and a finish and this solves both for me. Thanks again. I also live in AZ. do you have a store front, would like to stop in sometime.
Awesome, helpful video, I want to use the blue on a swamp ash 51 p bass body I just got. Can you recommend a color to apply to an unfinished maple neck, to get that amber aged look. I assume you stay with transparent artist oils, correct?
@lesbatt Swamp Ash has varying density in the grain, and large pores. If you want a completely flat look I would definitely fill the pores before you apply the oil or the color. Also, because of the odd density variations of the wood, it may take color more in certain areas than others, so do a test piece first. You can also get a more translucent look if you add a dab of the artist colors to an ounce of oil in a little glass jar and mix it. Then you apply it from the jar. Hope that helps.
Brian, you stated toward the end of this video that you recommend using the artist paints on light colored woods. I have an alder body that I like to use for a purple bust finish. I've heard of people bleaching alder. I want to use alder for it's inherent tonal qualities. Any thoughts, opinions or suggestions on the process and the choices of bleach? Thanks. Great video.
@bball33g If you check out the new video "Coloring Oil Finishes Alternate Method," I give a way to thin the oil to do exactly what you are talking about. You would have to carefully layer the color where the deepest part of the burst (the rim) gets the most coats and the lightest part (the center) gets the fewest. I haven't done it personally but it sounds like it would work just fine. You may have a world class idea there. Good luck.
Would you recommend a tru-oil finish for my Schecter C-1 Classic? I refinished it with a water based stain in a green-black burst on a flame maple top with mahogany body. It is neck-thru with a maple neck? Are all those woods okay for the tru-oil? I want an oil finish for the entire guitar! Why is tru-oil better than tung oil?
I have a violin which is completely raw wood at this moment. I would like to know if I can use this to put some color on it and then use the tru oil. I used to have tru oil on it alone but I was very unhappy with it's color. I'm wondering if there is a difference between this and the oldwood1700 oil natural color. Can you help me choose what will be best & not loose the sound on my violin?
![5 Different Finishes, 5 Different Results [Walnut Edition]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/i6K5zkiH_VM/mqdefault.jpg)
For ambering using artists oils, try Cadmium Yellow Hue, only using a very small amount. Or, Yellow Ochre, or Raw Sienna. Look at them in the store, and select one to test. Pick up a piece of Maple, sand it to 220, then start with a few very thin coats. If the test board comes out the coloring you are after, then apply it to the neck. Coat it several times with uncolored tru-oil afterwards to lock the color in, and then lightly scuff it with 0000 steel wool to smooth it out for playing.
It brings out the grain and looks great on everything I have ever applied it on. I hope you give it a try.
If you try and color the oil at this point, apply it over the existing oil finish on the violin, and use a very small amount of coloring so you can build up coats over time until the color you like shows up. Its much easier to go lighter and sneak up on the coloring rather than go too dark. I've never used the oldwood1700 so I can't say how well it would work or not, but many violins have been finished with tru-oil before.
You can, and Birchwood Casey (the same company that makes tru-oil) sells a sealer made specifically for going under tru-oil. I have used it once, and I can't tell the difference other than a smooth surface to apply the oil. When you go with oil on wood with open grain you will have little pits, which I like the look of. If you use the sanding dealer you can sand it all level and apply the oil over the smooth surface. Best of luck.
thank you so much for your video, i am building a les paul kit, and have been trying to find a method of doing a burst and a finish and this solves both for me. Thanks again. I also live in AZ. do you have a store front, would like to stop in sometime.
thnx for the great video this helped me allot ,with imagion how it would look
the wood u used is this compairable with an alder strat body?
how long does it take to dry the color before you can put the tru-oil on and not have it drag the color?
Awesome, helpful video, I want to use the blue on a swamp ash 51 p bass body I just got. Can you recommend a color to apply to an unfinished maple neck, to get that amber aged look. I assume you stay with transparent artist oils, correct?
Hey man, great video. Do you apply a sealer before the color and the tru oil? Thanks!
@lesbatt Swamp Ash has varying density in the grain, and large pores. If you want a completely flat look I would definitely fill the pores before you apply the oil or the color. Also, because of the odd density variations of the wood, it may take color more in certain areas than others, so do a test piece first. You can also get a more translucent look if you add a dab of the artist colors to an ounce of oil in a little glass jar and mix it. Then you apply it from the jar. Hope that helps.
Brian, you stated toward the end of this video that you recommend using the artist paints on light colored woods. I have an alder body that I like to use for a purple bust finish. I've heard of people bleaching alder. I want to use alder for it's inherent tonal qualities. Any thoughts, opinions or suggestions on the process and the choices of bleach? Thanks. Great video.
@bball33g If you check out the new video "Coloring Oil Finishes Alternate Method," I give a way to thin the oil to do exactly what you are talking about. You would have to carefully layer the color where the deepest part of the burst (the rim) gets the most coats and the lightest part (the center) gets the fewest. I haven't done it personally but it sounds like it would work just fine. You may have a world class idea there. Good luck.
If you thinned it enough, is it possible to do a burst finish?
Hey one more question. Have you ever tried the Winton white? They have different ones and I was wondering if you knew the difference. Thanks!
Would you recommend a tru-oil finish for my Schecter C-1 Classic? I refinished it with a water based stain in a green-black burst on a flame maple top with mahogany body. It is neck-thru with a maple neck? Are all those woods okay for the tru-oil? I want an oil finish for the entire guitar! Why is tru-oil better than tung oil?
I have a violin which is completely raw wood at this moment. I would like to know if I can use this to put some color on it and then use the tru oil. I used to have tru oil on it alone but I was very unhappy with it's color. I'm wondering if there is a difference between this and the oldwood1700 oil natural color. Can you help me choose what will be best & not loose the sound on my violin?
I saw this type of product referred to as a glaze. I wonder if it could be used to do a burst.
Thanks Brian!!!
So it's the same colors that artists use to do oil paintings?
We use this technique for violin nicks and dings...
Hey man