As a little bit of advice. When I make layered items just like yours in the video, I use the fill feature in Lightburn. Set Lightburn to color fill the areas of each layer and choose a different color for each layer. Then, you can see what colors will show and what colors won't show. I also think you could cut out the main body of the piece, no inner cuts, leave the held down wood sheet in the laser, gently pull out the cut pieces, paint, place them back in the held down wood that is now your "jig" so to speak, and finish up by lasering the inner cuts to finish off the design. Just sharing things I do. The last one helps a ton when you have say, 10+ of the same signs to make, cut out all the main body pieces (no inner cuts), paint, and on the last held down sheet of material use it as the jig for all the ones you cut out and painted. Keeps everything aligned and allows you to be painting some, while others dry, and others are being final laser cuts or engravings.
I really really appreciate you telling me about the Filled Rendering setting in Lightburn!!! I never knew that was there... what a huge sanity saver!!!
@@Samcraftcom More than happy to help! Only things I forgot to mention, which you probably already figured out, you need to stack your layers over each other and in the order of your colors for the fill to show your desired finished idea. Two other things would be, don't forget to switch the layers back to "line" once you're done drooling over your beautiful work and, it's a shame Lightburn has such a limited color range for the layers LOL. Anyway, loved your video and you make some really nice content there. Keep up the good work!
Love your videos. Just wanted to give you some info. I have a laser engraving business and we mostly do the layered artwork like this. We've been in business since 2010 and started by hand. A few tips we've run into. We constantly ran into issues with home depot and lowes wood with voids and glue pockets. We use finish grade plywood now. Also 3m tape and spray glue tend to fail in heat and humidity. Had an outdoor event when we started and a few signs fall apart. We now use starbond. Never had an issue since. You can also get those char marks off the paint with baby wipes. Just make sure they don't have aloe.
OMG, that machine, the thunderlaser, cuts so elegantly, the way it moves, the speed it gets is beautiful, it flutters lightly like a butterfly! You can keep a brush for each colour inside a zip lock bag and that will cut the work time as well.
Hey Sam. I think if you are strategic, you can probably cut keyhole slots in the "wall" layer and hide them in the next layer to make the sign easier to hang.
VERY impressive performance for a laser. I am amazed that it could cut such fine lines and not burn out adjacent areas leaving fine crisp unburned lines. WOW! thumbs up Sam.
Awesome video and demo I'm really impressed by the Thunder and that it cut so nice an thin with great results. Yes it may be a bit rustic but that's what crafts are about. I always believe that people without scars aren't as interesting and crafts especially wood are that way too. Thanks Sam for another great video.
Sam, that's really cool. I was duly impressed. I own a 80 watt but not a thunder. It's a 900 by 1200 and I get most of my material from HD. Thanks for the demo....
The sponge brushes are a bulk purchase item. Even if you clean them between use they break down pretty quickly. We've been using print-making rollers and inks to color our prints after they are cut out. Those work well. I imagine the wood was so thin because of scaling, like you said, but also the kerf, which I suspect is larger on a more powerful laser cutting through thicker material.
Looks great, and so does your new shop! Just a thought, you may have already had...picture an assembly board for your multi stack designs. Like a cutting board with a series of refrence holes and pins, to make stack'n'glue a little faster and repeatable. God bless you my cyber friend.
The reason he discusses the soot marks at the end is why I always paint after I cut. Also I put a couple coats of clear spray paint over the top to ensure the spray glue doesn’t give out and it makes the color more even across the piece.
After your paint dries put masking or transfer over the top (press down on it and make sure there aren't any wrinkles) and then cut it out. You'll have to peel all the tape off and is tedious but you wont have to repaint usually.
Thanks Sam. I always enjoy your videos and seeing your workshop develop. I’m a hobbyist so my customers are more forgiving, but they and I prefer a little char around the edges. It adds some handcrafted (authenticity) to the project.
With these types of signs, I'd probably get the double sided 3M adhesive tape sheets, and pre-apply the tape (with the 2nd side backing still there), and cut them tape-side up, with the image reversed. That 3M stuff (if you get the right version) is permamant, and outdoor-safe. Another tip, get a large cork board, and use T-pins to align the layers. You can strategically pin around the edges of the base, and keep each layer pressed up against the side of the pins, and stack. Makes putting them together super-quick, and alignment perfect. This obviously wouldn't work for something that has different sized layers, but if they all have the same outside outline, it works great. You definitely had your power/speeds and focus tuned pretty dang well, those edges have that slightly darker honey-brown look, not badly chared. With more air pressure, I think it'd be spot on perfect. OH, we use Luan from Lowes a good bit, but be aware it cuts at much lower powers than the birch, and it'll char pretty quick.
@@19Photographer76 The 3M 467MP tape is very, very thin, and very strong. Usually when I do these types of multi layer prints, I use 3mm or 1/8" ply (especially the ones with a bunch of layers, 6 or more). You can buy the stuff by the roll. The only drawback doing it pre-applied is any pieces you cut out, will also have wasted adhesive tape on them as well. Depending on how large the cut out sections are though, you can likely reuse some of it for smalls.
Heya, I noticed you are starting out as well with your Thunder Laser as I am. The wood you have posted from HD is pricey for doing test cuts and stuff, the big blue place has RevolutionPly which is like half the price of the HD ply you have, it's around $27 near me. Keep that HD stuff for your good cuts and use the Revolution for your testing. I find it cuts really good, it also comes in 4x8 sheets and I did your technique on cutting down the full sheets, I did it in 3rds on my 51. Of course I see that video after I got the tracksaw...oh well :)
Might want to look into alcohol inks - they won’t be as opaque as traditional paint, but easier to apply by hand and clean up, using 99% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Dries in seconds. On multi-layer plywood projects, I’m using brushes with steel or brass bristles, after glue up, to smooth out the charred edges, and helps remove or hide any glue residue. (Finished items feel better in your hand, as well.)
Painting all the way out to the outside edges… I noticed a little sliver of color on my stacked layers, so I started limiting how close I’d paint to the outside edge.
maibe you can make the sighn look nicer if you used coloured thick cardboard paper it might allso help speed up the assembly process if you have the outside cut out of a thicker piece of ply so you can drop them in there to line them up while gleuing
A great first try, the burn do kind of let it down as you say. Also maybe a bit too thick? I'd be going for thinner layers I think. Acrylic would be great but obviously far more expensive.
For the paint part of this project, would we have to worry about toxic fumes? I am just curious before I try something similar. Food for thought: Maybe add a clear acrylic layer that goes around the Tennesee lettering on top of the project. I am thinking that this keep the dust out of it and give you an option to add lights to the project.
With laser engraving and cutting fumes should always be forefront in your mind. A very powerful exhaust system is a must for any laser work. I'm sure the paint & wood & glue being burned through would be harmful to your lungs. I sure don't want it in mine! :)
If you are going to produce a bunch at a time, paint the whole piece of wood each color and use a foam roller. You can also take the rollers and put them into a zippie to save them.
I was thinking if you are going to make multiple copies of one like that maybe you could waste a little wood on the first one do an offset on the outer cut with alignment holes and cut out the shape again then glue the offset pieces together using the alignment holes. now you have a multilayer alignment jig you can use to align all the other layers.
So with stacked sign style; would the glue job we saw be all that you do to it or would you maybe coat the outside edge as well? I’m just curious how confident you would be in sending that out and those layers holding up? Well maybe that’s a dumb question because you said the sign is meant to be much larger than the prototype! Never mind… thanks for the video!
Sam, nice looking work. We make similar layered signs in our shop. You mentioned 32.5mm/s what power setting for this HD wood? We will look at getting some next trip to Home Despot.
Awesome Video. I bought a Nova 51/100 this weekend and I’m lost on how to operate it. The unit only has a few hrs of it. I downloaded the 30 day free trial of lightburn but my controller doesn’t seem to operate the machine. I operating it with my computer. I did pickup some tips from your video. How did you make the material hold downs. I know this sounds crazy but is there any way we might talk on the phone? Thanks again for your videos.
Sam, if you live within an hour or so of Asheville, NC I can tell you of a good place to get 5' x 5' sheets of 3mm and 5mm Russian Birch at a reasonable price. Once again, a great video.
@@Samcraftcom I know who is going to win, just wondering by how much. Cutting will obviously be a lot faster. I am really wondering about engraving time/speed. I engrave regularly at 400mm/s on my P2 so it seems pretty quick, but I know the Thunder can go faster than the max P2 speed of 500mm/s.
@@rcarroll05I'll put this into my video notes to shoot and test out. I'm pretty close to producing that video. Just getting a few more ducks lined up. :)
What type of paint did you use? I’ve been using spray paint but feel there is something better. Let’s make a trade… I’ll make you one from my home town Pensacola, Fl. You from yours.
paint by numbers hahahahha had to say it lol i see state light boxs. to put lil nicnacks. or thumbels from each state type this... then LEDs inside.. color change or white or off white. so on
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
As a little bit of advice. When I make layered items just like yours in the video, I use the fill feature in Lightburn. Set Lightburn to color fill the areas of each layer and choose a different color for each layer. Then, you can see what colors will show and what colors won't show.
I also think you could cut out the main body of the piece, no inner cuts, leave the held down wood sheet in the laser, gently pull out the cut pieces, paint, place them back in the held down wood that is now your "jig" so to speak, and finish up by lasering the inner cuts to finish off the design.
Just sharing things I do. The last one helps a ton when you have say, 10+ of the same signs to make, cut out all the main body pieces (no inner cuts), paint, and on the last held down sheet of material use it as the jig for all the ones you cut out and painted. Keeps everything aligned and allows you to be painting some, while others dry, and others are being final laser cuts or engravings.
I really really appreciate you telling me about the Filled Rendering setting in Lightburn!!! I never knew that was there... what a huge sanity saver!!!
@@Samcraftcom More than happy to help!
Only things I forgot to mention, which you probably already figured out, you need to stack your layers over each other and in the order of your colors for the fill to show your desired finished idea.
Two other things would be, don't forget to switch the layers back to "line" once you're done drooling over your beautiful work and, it's a shame Lightburn has such a limited color range for the layers LOL.
Anyway, loved your video and you make some really nice content there. Keep up the good work!
Sam, you are having way too much fun!!! Love your enthusiasm... it's infectious and inspiring...keep the content coming...
Thank you! Will do!
I wish I was that good with lining up my pieces perfectly. It looks easy, but it's not that easy. Thanks for sharing
Love your videos. Just wanted to give you some info. I have a laser engraving business and we mostly do the layered artwork like this. We've been in business since 2010 and started by hand.
A few tips we've run into. We constantly ran into issues with home depot and lowes wood with voids and glue pockets. We use finish grade plywood now.
Also 3m tape and spray glue tend to fail in heat and humidity. Had an outdoor event when we started and a few signs fall apart. We now use starbond. Never had an issue since.
You can also get those char marks off the paint with baby wipes. Just make sure they don't have aloe.
I appreciate your tips and guidance very much!
This technique produces an affect that looks like stained glass. Amazing look.
OMG, that machine, the thunderlaser, cuts so elegantly, the way it moves, the speed it gets is beautiful, it flutters lightly like a butterfly!
You can keep a brush for each colour inside a zip lock bag and that will cut the work time as well.
Hey Sam. I think if you are strategic, you can probably cut keyhole slots in the "wall" layer and hide them in the next layer to make the sign easier to hang.
VERY impressive performance for a laser. I am amazed that it could cut such fine lines and not burn out adjacent areas leaving fine crisp unburned lines. WOW! thumbs up Sam.
What a great idea by scoring first and painting in place, then cutting. I’m stealing that idea Sam.
Go for it!
If only I had more room in my shop lol. I saw that thing operate when I was out in AZ at Cadence Mfg. it is amazing.
Looks beautiful! I need one with my logo
Wish I could afford a Thunder. You're going to have a blast with it though. I foresee you making a jig to help align the pieces here soon.
Awesome video and demo I'm really impressed by the Thunder and that it cut so nice an thin with great results. Yes it may be a bit rustic but that's what crafts are about. I always believe that people without scars aren't as interesting and crafts especially wood are that way too. Thanks Sam for another great video.
Great points! Thanks Dan!
Love your videos and enjoy watching them every time. May the lord bless and protect you and your family and working in your shop.
Thank you! You too!
Fill it with epoxy and then coat the sides and back. It would make a nice paperweight or something to put on a shelf.
bet some small led lighting will make it pop more, look really cool.
Sam, that's really cool. I was duly impressed. I own a 80 watt but not a thunder. It's a 900 by 1200 and I get most of my material from HD. Thanks for the demo....
Learning curve dissipates with practice & patience. Great success with the emerging enterprise.
The sponge brushes are a bulk purchase item. Even if you clean them between use they break down pretty quickly. We've been using print-making rollers and inks to color our prints after they are cut out. Those work well.
I imagine the wood was so thin because of scaling, like you said, but also the kerf, which I suspect is larger on a more powerful laser cutting through thicker material.
You mentioned putting a sink in your shop. My wife talked me into it even though I wanted to save space. I'm glad I listened to her.
Awesome! I'm hoping to get mine this week.
@@Samcraftcom Use my sink all the time
Wow Sam now thats cool! I love the speed of it! And how clean it cuts! Super exciting!
Thanks so much!!
Sam, that laser is amazing. Great job can’t wait to see future projects. Thanks for sharing. Be safe God bless.
That looks amazing. Great idea on the multi layer plaque.
Looks great, and so does your new shop! Just a thought, you may have already had...picture an assembly board for your multi stack designs. Like a cutting board with a series of refrence holes and pins, to make stack'n'glue a little faster and repeatable.
God bless you my cyber friend.
That's a great idea!
In one of your off cuts you could make some dowel holes then use that for alignment
The reason he discusses the soot marks at the end is why I always paint after I cut. Also I put a couple coats of clear spray paint over the top to ensure the spray glue doesn’t give out and it makes the color more even across the piece.
Love the new workshop! I see you graduated to the big boys! 😂
Thanks!
Excellent video, even watch the commercials.
After your paint dries put masking or transfer over the top (press down on it and make sure there aren't any wrinkles) and then cut it out. You'll have to peel all the tape off and is tedious but you wont have to repaint usually.
Thanks Sam. I always enjoy your videos and seeing your workshop develop. I’m a hobbyist so my customers are more forgiving, but they and I prefer a little char around the edges. It adds some handcrafted (authenticity) to the project.
With these types of signs, I'd probably get the double sided 3M adhesive tape sheets, and pre-apply the tape (with the 2nd side backing still there), and cut them tape-side up, with the image reversed. That 3M stuff (if you get the right version) is permamant, and outdoor-safe. Another tip, get a large cork board, and use T-pins to align the layers. You can strategically pin around the edges of the base, and keep each layer pressed up against the side of the pins, and stack. Makes putting them together super-quick, and alignment perfect. This obviously wouldn't work for something that has different sized layers, but if they all have the same outside outline, it works great. You definitely had your power/speeds and focus tuned pretty dang well, those edges have that slightly darker honey-brown look, not badly chared. With more air pressure, I think it'd be spot on perfect. OH, we use Luan from Lowes a good bit, but be aware it cuts at much lower powers than the birch, and it'll char pretty quick.
That would add space between the layers, right...?!
@@19Photographer76 The 3M 467MP tape is very, very thin, and very strong. Usually when I do these types of multi layer prints, I use 3mm or 1/8" ply (especially the ones with a bunch of layers, 6 or more). You can buy the stuff by the roll. The only drawback doing it pre-applied is any pieces you cut out, will also have wasted adhesive tape on them as well. Depending on how large the cut out sections are though, you can likely reuse some of it for smalls.
I do this for small lettering for sure and it helps TREMENDOUSLY (in fact I did it last night on a small piece I made)
Awesome job, looks fantastic buddy!!!
Heya, I noticed you are starting out as well with your Thunder Laser as I am. The wood you have posted from HD is pricey for doing test cuts and stuff, the big blue place has RevolutionPly which is like half the price of the HD ply you have, it's around $27 near me. Keep that HD stuff for your good cuts and use the Revolution for your testing. I find it cuts really good, it also comes in 4x8 sheets and I did your technique on cutting down the full sheets, I did it in 3rds on my 51. Of course I see that video after I got the tracksaw...oh well :)
I can not believe you PAINTED IN THE LASER😮.
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
I do it all the time. It drys faster too.
Matt you have a great channel as well. I enjoy learning all the time from your videos too.
And I happily blame you for learning that skill, too!
Thanks Terry 😃. Now now Sam do as o say not as I do 😂
Matt has some pretty awesome 3d printed hold downs that fit the honeycomb perfectly! I have the same machine. It’s a beast!
Great job Sam! I love the machine! It's amazing! Thanks for sharing this information!
Thanks for watching!
pre paint whole sheet and cut multiple of same piece and each color sheet makes its corresponding piece
For batch production, absolutely! The time saved would be worth it so much vs. painting like I did for this one off creation.
One paint brush for each colour, then wrap them individually in cling film (plastic wrap / Saran Wrap). Won't dry for a few days.
That came out really good!
Great idea Sam, looks great 👍
Might want to look into alcohol inks - they won’t be as opaque as traditional paint, but easier to apply by hand and clean up, using 99% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Dries in seconds.
On multi-layer plywood projects, I’m using brushes with steel or brass bristles, after glue up, to smooth out the charred edges, and helps remove or hide any glue residue. (Finished items feel better in your hand, as well.)
Painting all the way out to the outside edges… I noticed a little sliver of color on my stacked layers, so I started limiting how close I’d paint to the outside edge.
We need to find you some bionic noises. Man, that machine is a beast! I love the project. Very cool!
That would be cool!
Cheers Sam nice work
I bet you can do neat wooden shadow boxes. With or without lights
maibe you can make the sighn look nicer if you used coloured thick cardboard paper
it might allso help speed up the assembly process if you have the outside cut out of a thicker piece of ply so you can drop them in there to line them up while gleuing
Great video and nice design. Solid machine, like it!
A great first try, the burn do kind of let it down as you say. Also maybe a bit too thick? I'd be going for thinner layers I think. Acrylic would be great but obviously far more expensive.
For the paint part of this project, would we have to worry about toxic fumes? I am just curious before I try something similar.
Food for thought: Maybe add a clear acrylic layer that goes around the Tennesee lettering on top of the project. I am thinking that this keep the dust out of it and give you an option to add lights to the project.
With laser engraving and cutting fumes should always be forefront in your mind. A very powerful exhaust system is a must for any laser work. I'm sure the paint & wood & glue being burned through would be harmful to your lungs. I sure don't want it in mine! :)
Thanks a lot Sam! Nice video. (from New Zealand)
My pleasure!
Very cool project. Great job
Thank you very much!
Very nice Sam! I am jealous of your laser.. Keep up the great work my friend..
If you are going to produce a bunch at a time, paint the whole piece of wood each color and use a foam roller. You can also take the rollers and put them into a zippie to save them.
Wow...that is neat...we been missing Angela and the boys
👍😃Danke für das Video.
Wow. Gut gemacht.
That is really cool, good job.
Thanks!
What camera and lens you are using?
Hello! I really enjoyed the video! How do you create these layered cutouts? I would like to do animals to decorate my home.
Great 1st project! I love using lightburn. Of course my laser is not as powerful as yours.
Nice job!
I was thinking if you are going to make multiple copies of one like that maybe you could waste a little wood on the first one do an offset on the outer cut with alignment holes and cut out the shape again then glue the offset pieces together using the alignment holes. now you have a multilayer alignment jig you can use to align all the other layers.
That's a great idea and very ingenious! :)
That’s one cool sign!
So with stacked sign style; would the glue job we saw be all that you do to it or would you maybe coat the outside edge as well? I’m just curious how confident you would be in sending that out and those layers holding up? Well maybe that’s a dumb question because you said the sign is meant to be much larger than the prototype! Never mind… thanks for the video!
Love it x
Just wait until you start projects you've done on that P2 and see the speed difference. I went with the Aeon MIRA 7 60w and love it.
Came out great Sam. If I had purchased the product, I'd be wondering when the software had been updated.
Really cool!!!!
very cool mate
Hey really good video, can you tell me what paint you use
Sam, nice looking work. We make similar layered signs in our shop.
You mentioned 32.5mm/s what power setting for this HD wood? We will look at getting some next trip to Home Despot.
32 mm/s at 90% power for the 1/4" (4mm) Purebond Birch Plywood on my 100w machine. :)
Very cool!!!
Awesome
Thanks Sam😅, so nice!
Hey Sam, thanks for the video. Love the new laser! What are you using for your exhaust on that laser beast? How many cfm if the exhaust? Thanks!
How do I know what type of paint is suitable for wood? I live outside the United States and I cannot use the same types in the video
Awesome Video. I bought a Nova 51/100 this weekend and I’m lost on how to operate it. The unit only has a few hrs of it. I downloaded the 30 day free trial of lightburn but my controller doesn’t seem to operate the machine. I operating it with my computer. I did pickup some tips from your video. How did you make the material hold downs. I know this sounds crazy but is there any way we might talk on the phone? Thanks again for your videos.
Awesome❤❤
Just a question, will the thunder do 3D in crystal or clear epoxy
Hay Sam, are you in Tennessee
Hello. On Creative Fabrica, what do I look up?
Sam, if you live within an hour or so of Asheville, NC I can tell you of a good place to get 5' x 5' sheets of 3mm and 5mm Russian Birch at a reasonable price. Once again, a great video.
Scroungers!!! :)
@Samcraftcom exactly. Right now Mark has a bunch of it.
Nice!
Can you do those for other states?
I sure can! I have design files for all the US States. :)
Great, I am thinking about some gifts. I will get back with you. Thank you
Cool!!
The next one maybe you could add lights in it....
New project: Make something from your "waste" pieces ❤
Tyfs!
Thats cool. It looks like stained glass.
Awesome but don’t forget the orange
I’ve always used 3M 77 adhesive, how do you like the Gorilla brand?
It's okay for general use, but for a project like this CA glue would have been better.
Looked like your power was at 90%? Is that too high for the thunder tube to run at?
Thunder recommends many cutting settings at 90%, no worries. :)
Verygood
You misspelled Kentucky😂
This comment had me looking at the video, title, and info way too long before I realized what you meant! LOL
how many sq ft is this new shop
From Tennessee here. Are you Sam?
Are you going to sale these signs?
I plan to offer a similar style, yes. I am going through all 50 state designs now to get them ready. :)
What kind of paint did you use?
Behr paint from Home Depot -- acrylic, interior matte.
Are you using a CO2 laser?
Did you say 3500 watt? Or is that just the model number? Your first project is a great one. And Matt is wonderful just like you.
I muddled the words together too much.. :) It's a Nova 35 . . . 100 watt laser. :)
I have a P2. Would be interesting to see the same file run on each to show the difference in speed.
You're not the only one who's asked, so consider it in the works! :)
@@Samcraftcom I know who is going to win, just wondering by how much. Cutting will obviously be a lot faster. I am really wondering about engraving time/speed.
I engrave regularly at 400mm/s on my P2 so it seems pretty quick, but I know the Thunder can go faster than the max P2 speed of 500mm/s.
@@rcarroll05I'll put this into my video notes to shoot and test out. I'm pretty close to producing that video. Just getting a few more ducks lined up. :)
What type of paint did you use? I’ve been using spray paint but feel there is something better. Let’s make a trade… I’ll make you one from my home town Pensacola, Fl. You from yours.
❤
paint by numbers hahahahha had to say it lol i see state light boxs. to put lil nicnacks. or thumbels from each state type this... then LEDs inside.. color change or white or off white. so on