In this video we are going to be discussing different type of shotshell hulls and how to identify what type you have. Please like and subscribe. Support us through Patreon www.patreon.co...
Great Job. No apologies necessary. Teaching is a gift you possess, so please keep at it because you stress the safety side of this as well as giving straightforward and helpful information. Thank You for your efforts.
I’m in the information gathering stage of reloading and I do like to do my research before jumping in. I appreciate your candor regarding getting a manual first. I am learning and you are helping me to understand this, so thank you!
So glad I found your channel. I am just getting started on reloading and I noticed the difference in primers, but information is not easy to find. Thank you 🇺🇸
Good info. Thanks. The difference between "can use" & "should use" difference while reloading can have devestating consequences. I ain't gonna be reinventing load data from scratch. Haha
I know u put this video out 11 months ago. I am new to reloading and i had seen another video of your on the lyman book u have and i got one. I thank u for what u are doing and i am learning alot. I will not start doing it until i know all the safety side of it. I did not know until now about straight and tapered hulls thank u. Have a good day.
Great videos lots of information in them. I just got back into reloading my own shot gun shells ..... bird shot and also slugs. And rifle and pistol brass. And like in all your videos can't stress enough get a book and don't substitute anything. Stick with what the book say. Keep up the great videos.
I'm just starting shot shell reloading. I'm still collecting information. The first thing I bought was a Lyman manual. I've been reloading rifle & pistol cartridges for 30 years. Rule # follow the load data! Rule #2 there is no such thing as to many reloading manuals! Thanks for the video.
I Have been reloding for 3 years now Have many listen to a retiard gunsmith I had a gun blow up on me this is wy I have looked at your video most would of given up people Have sed as much me though look were I when rong and dial in you have opened my eyes thank you
Great video keep it up! It's nice to the 16ga stuff as it's my favorite shotgun and yes I reload for it don't have to load steel yet but the info is nice to have. ill is thinking about going to steel for upland and smallgame on state ground
Thanks for the very informative video! Kinda chuckled a bit when you were talking about the 3&1/2” shells,I must say I’m not a fan of those! No fun to shoot those!!
This is no real revelation to those who have done shotshell loading for a while, but just know that generally speaking (there are rare exceptions), you are better off with tapered unibody compression-formed hulls. As the name "unibody" suggests with these, the shell body and base wad consiste of a single unified piece of plastic, and it is for that reason that these are considered the most durable, safest type to reload, that also provide the greatest number of reloads. That means the old-style (the non-HS and now sadly discontinued) Winchester AA and many of today's Remington hulls, namely the STS, Gun Club, and Nitro Gold. Also, if you are one of the lucky ones to have some of the now discontinued Activ hulls, those are considered some of the finest hulls out there, at least as long as you have a gun that cycles the all plastic outer body reliably. Avoid all shotshells that have fiber base wads unless you have nothing else available, and be certain that they have never been anywhere near moisture, and make them "one and done" reloads. The third option are the straight-wall hulls that use a separate plastic base wad, and these are acceptable hulls, but they're still not quite as durable as tapered unibody hulls, and they are a good second choice for reloading, but be sure to carefully inspect the interior of each one before running them through the next reloading cycle to ensure that the plastic base wad hasn't come partially dislodged. The fiber base wad hulls have a much greater risk of a very unsafe situation of the base wad coming dislodged and making it part of the way down the barrel to form a very dangerous risk of bursting your barrel with the next shot, but be aware that the hulls with a separate plastic base wad can do that as well, especially after a higher number of reload cycles, or with heavier powder/shot charges, or with lower quality hulls. Bottom line: 1) Your first choice for hulls should be compression-formed unibody tapered hulls in good condition. 2) Your second choice for hulls should be high quality straight-walled plastic with separate internal base wads in good condition, as long as you inspect with each reload cycle. 3) Your third choice is the type with fiber base wads never exposed to moisture, carefully inspected before your one reload cycle, then throw these hulls into the trash barrel after the one and only reload cycle.
the hull shape is critical, it might be ok to put a powder charge from a tapered into a straight but you put a straight into a tapered the pressure would be immense
I believe all of the 16ga shells you showed are polyformed, straight walled, shells with separate plastic basewads. Winchester stopped making compression formed 16ga shells in the 90's. Any of the Winchester 16's that have ribs on the outside of the hull are not compression formed. When it comes to 16ga, there is a lot of confusion.
Are Cheddite, Rio, and Fiocchi primers the same size? Also what about 57 size primers what are they used for? I have been loading rifle and pistol for years, but only just got into shotgun loading and only 12 gauge. Good video editing is not necessary when the information is good.
Great video thanks! Couldn't tell for sure but do you sometimes load steel into a shell that says lead/target load on it? I guess if the game warden asked you about it, you could prove it was steel with the magnet?
Yes you can, and I do quite often. If there is a question about your shot type they can either use a magnet or cut the shell open with a knife. I haven’t been checked by the GW so far but I always stay within the law and try to do things right. Happy Hunting!
Great vid especially for a newbie like me. One thing I am curious about, is the Win AA hull. I have seen some marked Light and some marked Heavy. I scoured their website and Googled the heck out of it, but can not find out if the two hulls....just the hulls....are different in any way. Their website explains the load difference but not if the one hull is say thicker or something else different from the other. Just wish Win would answer their email and phones! Do you know if the hulls are the same and the only difference is the load?
The best thing to do if you are having a problem identifying a hull is to cut it length wise and compare it to a known hull to see if they are the same. There have been so many hulls through the years it is difficult to tell what you might have.
dieselten01 I stay with the published load data. I have never swapped hulls in the data. You will sometimes find data for both hulls that is real close or even the same. I hope this helps.
Have been reloading pistol & rifle for a while now, looking to get into 12Ga. Right now isn't really the time but I'm slowly gathering up shotgun reloading supplies. My SBS will take 3" max shells. I'm interested in loading for goose, duck & dove. Is there a common shell and wad to stock up on that will do all 3? I shoot BB for goose. I've got titewad, WST and N320 for potential powders.
Soooo, I've decided to go with STS hulls to load 7/8 to 1oz BB in. Can't find Lyman 5th edition anywhere but did manage to get an advantages and status of steel manuals.
On using American primers in European hulls(metric)...where do you stand on 'reforming' the primer pocket. BPI sells a primer pocket reforming tool....is it worth it?? Safe for use???
you said its all about the basewads, now I am confused, does tapered matter just as important. So do I need to seperate shells based on basewad and tapered or not?
Yes. Sort your hulls based on the basewad of the hull. There tapered hulls and straight walled hulls. Those are the two categories. In each category the basewad of the hull can differ.
Next video will come up soon. We’ve been remodeling the studio to make it more user friendly. Thank you for the kind words. If I can help one person then it is all worth it. God Bless.
OK Shotgun you’ve definitely helped me more than any other video I’ve seen and for that good sir, I thank you. Your a natural teacher to say the least! God bless as well
I’m glad I found your channel. At this point I’m gathering information before I take on this awesome hobby. Thanks
Same here. Shopping powder & primers keeping it just an idea at the moment.
I can listen to you all day. Very informative. Thank you
Great Job. No apologies necessary. Teaching is a gift you possess, so please keep at it because you stress the safety side of this as well as giving straightforward and helpful information. Thank You for your efforts.
Nice description's on the types of hulls. Safety can't be stressed enough it only takes one mistake.
Very well put together. Love your videos. Keep them coming!!
Matt, your introductory videos are invaluable to shotshell reloading beginners. Thanks!
I’m in the information gathering stage of reloading and I do like to do my research before jumping in. I appreciate your candor regarding getting a manual first. I am learning and you are helping me to understand this, so thank you!
Thanks for making this video .
I've learned something new today .
Just subscribed 😊
Good video. Besides technical information, your emphasis on safety is critical.
Good video I like the Lyman manual to it has great info looking forward to next video God bless you to
So glad I found your channel. I am just getting started on reloading and I noticed the difference in primers, but information is not easy to find. Thank you 🇺🇸
I'm new to shotgun reloading...excellent explanation, learned a ton.. Great job
Good info. Thanks.
The difference between "can use" & "should use" difference while reloading can have devestating consequences. I ain't gonna be reinventing load data from scratch. Haha
Excellent information and very helpful. Thank you.
I know u put this video out 11 months ago. I am new to reloading and i had seen another video of your on the lyman book u have and i got one. I thank u for what u are doing and i am learning alot. I will not start doing it until i know all the safety side of it. I did not know until now about straight and tapered hulls thank u. Have a good day.
Thanks so much for this info. I have the Lyman 4th Edition. It still has great info too. Thanks so much
Thanks for video,just subbed. I have reloaded matalic cartridges for 40 plus yrs, but never shotshells. There is alot to a shotshell I didn't realize.
Great videos lots of information in them. I just got back into reloading my own shot gun shells ..... bird shot and also slugs. And rifle and pistol brass. And like in all your videos can't stress enough get a book and don't substitute anything. Stick with what the book say. Keep up the great videos.
Awesome channel very informative.
I'm just starting shot shell reloading. I'm still collecting information. The first thing I bought was a Lyman manual. I've been reloading rifle & pistol cartridges for 30 years. Rule # follow the load data! Rule #2 there is no such thing as to many reloading manuals! Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the fine compliment. I couldn’t agree more. The more manuals you have the better.
Just found you through TRN. Great vid. 👍🏻🇺🇸
Very nice and helpful video
great information... thank you !
Great video, keep em coming
epic intro's...great content
I Have been reloding for 3 years now Have many listen to a retiard gunsmith I had a gun blow up on me this is wy I have looked at your video most would of given up people Have sed as much me though look were I when rong and dial in you have opened my eyes thank you
Just starting to get into shotguns. Found this really interesting and informative. Easy to listen to as well. Greetings from Australia.
Great video keep it up! It's nice to the 16ga stuff as it's my favorite shotgun and yes I reload for it don't have to load steel yet but the info is nice to have. ill is thinking about going to steel for upland and smallgame on state ground
I all ways try to go by the book but this fall has been the hardest to find goose loads. Great video.
Just the info I needed. Thanks!
Thanks for the great information
Actually, I thought the intro was more Superbowl than movie. Great stuff!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Great teaching !! Thank you
Thanks for the very informative video! Kinda chuckled a bit when you were talking about the 3&1/2” shells,I must say I’m not a fan of those! No fun to shoot those!!
Good video thank you
This is no real revelation to those who have done shotshell loading for a while, but just know that generally speaking (there are rare exceptions), you are better off with tapered unibody compression-formed hulls.
As the name "unibody" suggests with these, the shell body and base wad consiste of a single unified piece of plastic, and it is for that reason that these are considered the most durable, safest type to reload, that also provide the greatest number of reloads.
That means the old-style (the non-HS and now sadly discontinued) Winchester AA and many of today's Remington hulls, namely the STS, Gun Club, and Nitro Gold.
Also, if you are one of the lucky ones to have some of the now discontinued Activ hulls, those are considered some of the finest hulls out there, at least as long as you have a gun that cycles the all plastic outer body reliably.
Avoid all shotshells that have fiber base wads unless you have nothing else available, and be certain that they have never been anywhere near moisture, and make them "one and done" reloads.
The third option are the straight-wall hulls that use a separate plastic base wad, and these are acceptable hulls, but they're still not quite as durable as tapered unibody hulls, and they are a good second choice for reloading, but be sure to carefully inspect the interior of each one before running them through the next reloading cycle to ensure that the plastic base wad hasn't come partially dislodged.
The fiber base wad hulls have a much greater risk of a very unsafe situation of the base wad coming dislodged and making it part of the way down the barrel to form a very dangerous risk of bursting your barrel with the next shot, but be aware that the hulls with a separate plastic base wad can do that as well, especially after a higher number of reload cycles, or with heavier powder/shot charges, or with lower quality hulls.
Bottom line:
1) Your first choice for hulls should be compression-formed unibody tapered hulls in good condition.
2) Your second choice for hulls should be high quality straight-walled plastic with separate internal base wads in good condition, as long as you inspect with each reload cycle.
3) Your third choice is the type with fiber base wads never exposed to moisture, carefully inspected before your one reload cycle, then throw these hulls into the trash barrel after the one and only reload cycle.
Thanks for watching.
Just saw a post of those Activ hulls the other day. 1st time I've seen them. Pretty cool.
the hull shape is critical, it might be ok to put a powder charge from a tapered into a straight but you put a straight into a tapered the pressure would be immense
I believe all of the 16ga shells you showed are polyformed, straight walled, shells with separate plastic basewads. Winchester stopped making compression formed 16ga shells in the 90's. Any of the Winchester 16's that have ribs on the outside of the hull are not compression formed. When it comes to 16ga, there is a lot of confusion.
Are Cheddite, Rio, and Fiocchi primers the same size? Also what about 57 size primers what are they used for? I have been loading rifle and pistol for years, but only just got into shotgun loading and only 12 gauge. Good video editing is not necessary when the information is good.
Great video thanks! Couldn't tell for sure but do you sometimes load steel into a shell that says lead/target load on it? I guess if the game warden asked you about it, you could prove it was steel with the magnet?
Yes you can, and I do quite often. If there is a question about your shot type they can either use a magnet or cut the shell open with a knife. I haven’t been checked by the GW so far but I always stay within the law and try to do things right. Happy Hunting!
So basically stick with Cheddit, Rio and feocchi
Great vid especially for a newbie like me. One thing I am curious about, is the Win AA hull. I have seen some marked Light and some marked Heavy. I scoured their website and Googled the heck out of it, but can not find out if the two hulls....just the hulls....are different in any way. Their website explains the load difference but not if the one hull is say thicker or something else different from the other. Just wish Win would answer their email and phones! Do you know if the hulls are the same and the only difference is the load?
The best thing to do if you are having a problem identifying a hull is to cut it length wise and compare it to a known hull to see if they are the same. There have been so many hulls through the years it is difficult to tell what you might have.
Great video, thank for sharing with us. I have a question I have win super x xpert hv no 6 steel shot factory hulls . Would I use cheddite data or ?
I do not have any data for those hulls. I wish I was better help to you. I do not know what type hull Winchester uses for those loads.
@@okshotgunThank you,that is my concern finding the right hull data
Are you comfortable swapping the tapered hulls - Rem Gun Club and WW AA HS. Also will you swap the Cheddite and the Remington straight wall? Thanks
dieselten01 I stay with the published load data. I have never swapped hulls in the data. You will sometimes find data for both hulls that is real close or even the same. I hope this helps.
Have been reloading pistol & rifle for a while now, looking to get into 12Ga. Right now isn't really the time but I'm slowly gathering up shotgun reloading supplies. My SBS will take 3" max shells. I'm interested in loading for goose, duck & dove. Is there a common shell and wad to stock up on that will do all 3? I shoot BB for goose.
I've got titewad, WST and N320 for potential powders.
Soooo, I've decided to go with STS hulls to load 7/8 to 1oz BB in. Can't find Lyman 5th edition anywhere but did manage to get an advantages and status of steel manuals.
On using American primers in European hulls(metric)...where do you stand on 'reforming' the primer pocket. BPI sells a primer pocket reforming tool....is it worth it?? Safe for use???
I do not have any experience with that tool. Many people have used it, some here on RUclips, with great success.
you said its all about the basewads, now I am confused, does tapered matter just as important. So do I need to seperate shells based on basewad and tapered or not?
Yes. Sort your hulls based on the basewad of the hull. There tapered hulls and straight walled hulls. Those are the two categories. In each category the basewad of the hull can differ.
👍
is it ok to load your straight wall shell recipe into a tapered wall shell but not reverse? I am trying to figure out this whole balistics thing.
I would only load a recipe that is published with the components it calls for in the load.
When’s the next video?
Next video will come up soon. We’ve been remodeling the studio to make it more user friendly. Thank you for the kind words. If I can help one person then it is all worth it. God Bless.
OK Shotgun you’ve definitely helped me more than any other video I’ve seen and for that good sir, I thank you. Your a natural teacher to say the least! God bless as well