How To Fix Ford 4.6, 5.4, 6.8L Blown Spark Plug. Cost about $250 for 8 cylinders
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- A blown spark plug is really an easy fix. Must have tools make it an easy fix these are must have tools to fix a blown spark plug. 1997-2003 ford 2 valve engine spark plug. This is what a blown spark plug sounds like when engin is running. Full description on how to fix blown spark plug ford.
amzn.to/3qg7QHU spark plug kit
amzn.to/3J8KjBx endo scope for looking down spark plug hole
Did my #5 last year, had another plug blow out yesterday... This kit is AWESOME! Around$300 on Amazon, well worth it!
Thank you so much for not having a super long intro and blabbering on and on before getting to the subject of the video. Thanks for getting to the point! I'm a new farmer and work on my own trucks. I look forward to learning more from you!
Wow thanks for the compliment. Where do ya farm
Your welcome! Iowa
@@farmdudeoh, all of my fords either have a 460 or a 7.3, but I just bought a 99 f250 5.4 with 92k miles, so I wanted to learn about the spark plug problem that I have been warned about. Your video covered what I need if I blow a plug. Thanks again!
I followed your instructions and the result is purrrfect. My 2002 F-150 XLT FX4 5.4L truck sounds and runs great. Thank you 😊
That’s awesome. Keep that kit handy more are sure to go at some point. I have had 4 of the eight go.
@@farmdude Had number 2 blow out on my Excursion. Checked the remaining 7 cylinders and made sure they were all torqued to 25ft lbs. Used the same kit to fix the blow out.
Did you have any trouble with the tap going all the way down?
2004 was the last year ford made the 5.4 2v in the SuperDutys and that year ford added more threads in the heads so the Sparkplugs dont blow out like the ones from 1999 to 03 did which is what happened to this guy, so if you have a 2004 SuperDuty with the 5.4 you won't have to worry about that happening. Just thought I would mention that because a lot of people forget to
Yep that's true I had a 2004 f350 with the 5.4 2v i bought in 2007 with just over 99,000 miles and I kept it until 2022 when I sold it with 230,000 miles never had one blow out I just had to change them of course but that's it
That’s a great tip and good advice. I will admit I did not know this. Thank you for the information.
I have an 05 5.4 2v and this just happened to me yesterday 😢
@@NoahGood-ld3usoook
False, 04 f250 126k just spit out 2 days ago
Love these intructions, thanks man you helped relieve a lot of headache
Glad to help.
Great video lots of help thanks!!! 🙏🏻
I enjoyed your video. I got a two valve later on today I'm picking up an expedition with three valves. That kit is well worth the money. I never pay someone to work on any vehicle I own.
I definitely enjoyed the video and I move certainly it the like button and subscribe. Look forward to watching more from you. Awesome thanks for the link.
Wow thank you so much. Don’t forget the 3 valve requires a different kit.
Omg just happened to me to my e250 van. I thought was pretty bad but turns up was the spark plug ❤
Yea. you can buy a lot of fords for dirt cheap and fix em up if you know what the signs are.
Thanks for the video! My 2010 Ford F-150 4.6L V8 130000 miles just blew spark plug #3 out! I was upset until I discovered your video! I purchased everything in the video. Thank you so much!
Wow. Thank you. If you run into any problems or have questions. Please let me know.
My number 3 just blew on 2003 expedition 4.6L, 238k miles
Aww man. These fords. I would advise doing all cylinders at once.
@@farmdude I have a major problem. The passenger side head was leaking oil and needs a head gasket. I found out this is a common problem with these engines. The metal shavings mixed together with the oil! Both friggin’ heads have to come off to fix my truck correctly! Not Good!
Pro tip...add a little wheel bearing grease to the bit before you use it and it will collect all of the shavings for you..
Your the second person to comment this. On my next project I will try this.
Unless a glob of grease falls in the cylinder full of shavings. Good luck blowing that out
@@spencerjody8535 exactly, that would be way worse than the shavings themselves. I just used wd40.
I used this very kit to fix a blown cylinder #3 on my Mercury. I wanted to then get a shop to replace the O2 sensors on the Merc because the two top ones are a total PITA to get to. The shop refused to work on my car because of having the inserts in the head! So, keep any repairs to yourself when you do something like this.
Good to know. And thanks for sharing I would personally try another shop.
Looks like some great advice, unfortunately my plug blew out and left the actual threads from the plug in the cylinder head. I really wish this video would work for my particular situation🤥
Are you saying the bottom of the plug is still there. Couldn’t you just un screw it. Or is that not doable.
Nahhh...wish it were that easy. The plug was seized and broke off. Got the electrode out but the threads and prong are still in it. tried easy out and a few other things with no luck. Might give this a try anyway. It should drill the old threads out as it's drilling the new hole. If I may ask how many foot pounds of torque did you use on your air wrench? I will say your video gave me some hope that I'd lost. Thanks man@@farmdude
Tech tip aply grease to the bit & tap go in a little bit stop remove wipe the grease/shavings off repeat do it multiple stages more stages you do less shavings will be in the cylinder
What grease do you use
great video! Thanks for blazing the trail and sharing your wisdom.
Thank you for watching.
Would you ever do this as preventative maintenance? Say you were about to drive across the country, would it make sense to do this beforehand just in case?
That’s about 17 foot pounds killed me 😅
This dude is the man .
You the man.
I had to fix my socket with rubber bolt too. Glue it and then grese the circle. Then inserts in socket work for spark plug
"Watch this! Arrgh!" Classic! Thanks for taking the time to make this.
Well… some of the other things I say when working on vehicles shouldn’t be posted. Hahah. Thanks for watching.
I had one blow out on my 04 marquis. I ran it a mile to a safe place to pull over only to find the rubber boot somehow got in the hole, made its way through other cylinders and melted. Water was leaking out the tail pipe and it would barely run. It looks like both the heads are cracked too. What a mess. The car was in good shape but i dont think its worth the money and hassle at 255,000 miles. It just seems wrong to sell it to the junkyard!
I would actually let thread locker set overnight at least for extra confidence it's going to stay in
Yes that is a good idea.
Never owned a Ford and never will. Ford should be held accountable for the fix.
Will it fix a troybuilt push lawn mower?
I wouldn’t count on it. Or at least I’m not sure on that one.
Same thing happens to the boot on my spark plug socket. It gets stuck on the plug and it ends up taking longer to get that off than changing the plug and coil because I don't want to just drop a new plug straight down the hole... Next time i'll have the boot super glued onto the socket or just use a rag or something to keep the plug from falling out of the socket.
Glue is genius
Did ford owner say coil, alright you that coil my group we call them ignition coil on older models, newer models we call ignition coil packs
So would doing all 8 cylinders make more sense than doing just one? I just bought this kit and think it would be a necessary idea. Ford screwed up on that head design. Only 3 threads! Can you believe that?
Yes it’s insane. Once I did mine I haven’t had any issues. However if you don’t do all of them at the same time one of 2 things will happen.
1. The next weakest one will go very shortly after.
2. You will have to replace the blown coil for each cylinder.
So I strongly advise doing them all in one setting.
No. Get a Timesaver kit. It locks the insert in. That kit relies on the loctite to hold it in. It'll back off. Then you need a Bigsert kit.
Really. I have had good luck with this. I’ll look into it if I ever have an issue. But it’s too late now and no problems yet. “ knock on wood “.
@@farmdude I used a Thread-saver kit. The insert popped out. I jammed it in. It relies on the ridges at the top and loctite to hold it in. The piston going up and down causes it to loosen. Then it pops out. Then
you need a Bigsert kit. Get the insert to fit the plug thread depth. I like the aligner tool.
Watch this haha dang it haha best part
This just happened to my 2007 Lincoln towns car v8 4.6L would this kit work for it?
I not sure. Google the Calvan website and check.
There’s gonna be a lot of fords with some nicely scratched cylinders walls :)
Not really. You can blow the chips out. Better than a blown spark plug.
Why couldn`t you use a magnet to get at least most of the shavings,then blow out whatever`s left?
That’s a great idea. I think the head is aluminum. Correct me if I’m wrong.
I spent $85 on same repair kit
How do reach the #4 cylinder in the very back
With a wobble extension on a impact driver.
@@farmdude I bought that cal van kit and it looks like they've improved their thread inserts considerably. I haven't had time to work on that Ford but I don't really trust using an impact driver with a thread tap. Maybe for the drilling but I always hand tap threads so I can feel how tight the tap is cutting. I've also got this old tap kit from o'Reilly's from about 3 years ago that only came with the tap, a few assorted helicoil thread inserts , and spark plug for like 30 bucks but it was a pain to use even on the # 2 cylinder. Crappy head design and they don't even care about quality production anymore. I've been driving since the mid 70's and I've owned exactly 3 Ford trucks, 1 Ford t bird, and 1 Ford bronco. Only two of the trucks were honestly good trucks, a 78 crew cab, and an early 90s regular cab. The t bird had crap aluminum heads, the bronco was an Eddie Bauer edition, everything power everything, was a great truck until about 94,000 miles and everything electric was everything failing one after another. Transfer case shifter, hub lockouts, every window motor at least once, fuel solenoid shut off, ecm module a couple of times, the transmission would force oil up the dipstick tube and it caught on fire so many times that I pulled the carpet up and left the center inspection plate in the floorboard hand tight so I access the flames easier every time it caught on fire. I eventually left it parked and used it for target practice. I'm not a huge Ford fan but other than these junk heads on that 2000 Ford I've got in my shop, it's been a beast of a truck. I've abused the crap out it, driving over trees, pulling way too much on heavy equipment trailers, pulling stumps, dragging trees, pulling cable, and I've kind of got a soft spot for it by now. I've got trucks to drive but they're not beaters. They're way too nice and way too much money to treat the way that Ford gets treated. Anyway blah blah blah. These heads suck but I've got the kit and no good excuses not to fix it, and the weather is getting half way tolerable to work in a hot shop with zero air flow.
Why not use a series of hoses connected to a shop vac to remove the metal shavings
It could work. Only one way to find out. Something a little bigger than a pin but small enough to bend and get to the bottom of the cylinder.
Holy shit right on Homeboy . This is Fucken Awesome. Thank you n new subscriber
Hell yea thanks.
@@farmdude oh hell no thank you . I could actually do this myself 😹😹😹 . I'll let you know how it goes. Thank you Brother
777th like!! Gotta question. Well, I have both the reemer and tap sitting in the old tool box (not the kit), and I can make my own guides if I need to I guess... My QUESTION is, other than holding the reemer and tap Centered with the hole, does that "guide" help create a crucial depth of cut for the reemer/ drill? Or is the insert made so that it will catch on the lip of what's left of the hole after drilling and tapping?
I'm thinking of just buying the insert(s) for $8 bucks and calling it a day since I already have the reemer and tap...
It does have a stopper from letting you go too deep. However you can feel it go through. I would not feel comfortable trying to keep it straight. Although if you look at the reamer I don’t think there’s teeth that would allow you to drill into something. Long story short the guide is what makes the foundation of all the other steps. I’d definitely use it
Shouldn't use power tools when making this repair, also put grease in the flutes of the reamer and tap to trap the shavings.
Why not use power tools. Wouldn’t the grease make it harder to blow the metal shavings out. Just curious
I stand corrected
I have a 2004 Lincoln towncar. My car sounds exactly like yours did in the beginning of this video. What would i tell a mechanic if needing this done?
You think you blew a spark plug. Please use the Calvin kit to fix it. Those town cars are usually pretty solid.
I have never heard of anybody that I know with 4.6 Ford engines blowing out spark plugs. I have 250,000 km. on my Crown Vic and the engine still purrs like a Tomcat in a creamery. Only the 5.4 s Good video though.
Those crown Vic’s are unstoppable.
My town car blew #4, about to try to fix it right now
I just blew a plug and coul apart while it was bolted in. Almost went thru my dash and windshield....I'm fixing this issue now and my plug has one of the inserts on it, so now I'm pissed. Fixing a fixing?
My raref250 can prove those inserts don't stay or work permanently
I'd share my photo if it let me. Cool and plug all came out together 1 piece. And my spring olin the coil, when it was in the truck, coil was flush and I could see the spring. It shot the bottom metal and ceramic tip up out of the cylinde, while it was installed.
How get HALF of the plug out...i have one broke in rhe 2 valve!
Crush as much as possible and blow out then try to screw out. If it still won’t come out. I drilled out a spark plug once buddy be sure to use the guide
I have a 2000 Im getting ready to swap engines. This is the 3rd vid I have watched. I see some use tap magic and some dont. I was thinking doing all 10 while engine was out. but better not press my luck. I do plan on new chain tensioners and checking the chain guides
I would 100% do it.
What about using a magnet to get the shavings out?
It’s aluminum
I need this done on a van
I think the motor on this pickup is out of a can.
Get a Timesaver kit. It locks the insert in. Get the extended kit.
When reaming it I had to hammer down the guide into place because it wasn't going flush through. The guide is now stuck in place and I can't move forward with tapping it.. Any thoughts on how to get it removed?
What year is your truck
Did u see some shavings between the piston n piston wall can't u use grease on you're drill bit before u cut js
I honestly think it’s easier to not use grease because you’re never going to get the shavings out when grease gets into the cylinder. Just use air and a little hose down in the hole. It will do a better job.
@@farmdude oh nice thanks for the feedback need to do this soon here
Should I do all spark plugs or just that one
If one went others are sure to follow. One time I fixed one and as soon as I started it another one blew from the added pressure. Also every time one blows you will more than likely have to replace the ignition coil..
hopefully you answer, but i’m 20 who loves to do things on cars and i’m still learning a lot but when you say close your valves i was wondering how you close them if they are not close?
Sorry it took a while to get back to ya. This kit comes with a rubber stopper that you put into the plug hole. I simply put it in the hole and just tap the starter turning over the engine in short bursts until you hear it pop out. Then this plug has a hose that you hook up to an air hose. If the plug blows out with air hose connected then the valves are closed. Just make sure your cylinder is not at top dead center.
@@farmdudethank you i appreciate this so much, and it was actually just in time! the kit came in today and i am ready to work! thanks again
How do you keep the shavings from when you tap the new threads from going down into the cylinder?
I let them. That’s why you make sure the valves are closed and simply blow the shavings out.
What about a 2004 3v 4.6
This kit won’t work on the 3 valve. Kal van does have a similar kit for the 3 valve.
You think this kit works on a Lincoln Town car?
Depends on what motor is in it.
You ever tried to put grease on that bit so it catches the shavings? Someone told me that’s what they do.
That is really not a good idea because it actually makes more shavings get stuck in the cylinder and the grease makes it hard to get a good deal with the lock tight.
Dude thank you
Absolutely
I have a 4.6 f150 it has been fixed before I purchased it and has blown out again will this method still work?
Do you know what it was fixed with last time… ex: helicoil or a reem bit and insert.
Ford somehow I'm not surprised
Will this technique work on a 02 lincoln navigator and what supplies you used to grease it with
I don’t grease the hole. I just used compressed air to blow out the cylinder. Be sure to make sure the valves are closed. Before starting each cylinder.
@@farmdude what grease you put on the tool before you entered the spark plug hole. Did you use wd40 or loctite greasy or sum?
I wouldn’t use grease. Just makes a mess you can blow the chips out really pretty quickly. Compared to cleaning grease.
I need to do this on my superchargered mustang gt. Do you think you will have to do all of the cylinders eventually?
Yes 100% it will save you a having to buy coils and potentially save a connection wiring failure.
@@farmdudedealing with this problem myself and wondering what u are talking about the electrical issue?? First I’ve heard that I have to do all cylinders? I thought I just had to fix the 1?
Just happened to be me at 238,000 miles. mechanic said it wasn’t worth fixing
Aww man. Have a few pickups like that. But I just keep patching.
Hey I just had the insert come out when i pulled my plug out for changing.. and now it won't tighten up when i try and put it back in.. should i try to re do the hole with this kit???
That’s a first. I would work on getting it to re thread or maybe just try to use the threader to freshen up the threads. Did you red locktite the insert.
@@farmdude how would i get it to re thread an whats threader?? and i haven't put any loctite or jb weld on there yet
You need a Timesert Bigsert kit. Get the extended kit. Get wheel bearing grease and loctite red.
Do you know if this kit and process will work on a 2010 F150 4.6 2 valve?
You should check to make sure your getting the correct insert kit.
Mine blown out of my motorcycle, the spark plug screwed back in. Will this be o.k or should I get the insert?
Oh I wouldn’t use this setup for a motorcycle.
Get a Timesert kit. Get picture red and wheel bearing grease.
Party On Garth!
Haha. Finally someone got it.
@@farmdude I even said it out loud when I watched it LOL. Watched your video, followed same steps. Runs like a champ now.
That’s awesome.
Will it work if its already been done?
Only one way to find out. I would check with a camera first to see what the threads look like.
My 2001 mustang gt has been threaded only on 2 spark plug holes and one won't thread on . can I rethreaded or I cannot thread it again?
I re did or drilled out a helicoil on mine and it’s still holding. Did that answer your question
How can I get that tool and how much?
Should be a blue link in the description of the video. It will take you to Amazon and you can get one on line. If you do buy one this way I’ll get a whopping.25 cent commission.
Is it possible to shoot out same threaded one I fixed about two month ago
It could be. It’s a good idea to put a scope down there to know for sure.
I have 160,000 on my late 96 f250. My truck sounded just like that
Did you get it fixed.
Im looking for a simple , easy way to find dead bottom center . . or should i just not worrry to much about it and can air the HELL out of it
I wont be using your 250$ kit either , i found a "tap and punch" kit at autzone for 20$ (?)
So my question is can i work around the bottom dead center ? While installing new threads
I tried one before from Napa. Good luck. Then you gonna have to buy another coil
1 year update? How has it held up?
It’s doing good. One other plug blew out that I didn’t replace when I should have. But yea I would say 100% fixed the problem.
What about the 2003 f150 with 4.2l v6 there no info on my engine and I have blown spark plug anyone help or can I use a regular kit
Get a Timesert kit. Get the extended kit. Get wheel bearing grease and loctite red.
I can't see my 3rd cylinder
What is the link for the tools?
It should be a link to Amazon for the calvan part in the description.
Will this work on the 3 valve?
Yes but you have to get the 3 valve kit. It is totally different
My insert came out with plug and blew my coil. Could've shot thru my windshield. Now, how do u fix this fixing? This is my problem...go bigger? How deep if thread locking that insert piece? Parts guys are saying this to me. I'm a single chick trying to have my truck again
Just got it from shop pay 1400...so no more shop trips
Probably wasn’t sealed down with red lock tight and let sit for 24 hours to seal good. I have never done this on same cylinder for a second time.
Will this work on a 2004 4.6
It should. I haven’t done a 4.6. But the spark plugs are the same. Just be sure it’s a 2 vs 3 valve.
I’m in Oklahoma I need someone to do my 1997 the number 2 plug just blew out why & how did they make a fucking rich that would blow the fucking plug out!!?
but why didnt ford pay for this, I fixed and drove over to gmc and traded for yukon xl will never deal with ford again
I have been thinking of their 6.7
$250 really??? I left my much loved 2000 f150 lariat in a city 3hrs away from me after blowing a plug my dad came and drove me home with me sitting there sobbing in the passenger seat of his truck because I was quoted $1,300 minimum for the repair and I don't have that much money and now I'm on foot for the next week or two because my dad lives in a different town
Aww man that sucks.
The cylinder head is not well made
My old lady always telling me.. even time when I reinter don't go tooo deep ahhhhhh
Firstly.....there is NO WAY you are going to keep chips from getting in the cylinder, nor will you be able to get them all out. So upon first fire up, you score your cylinder wall and valve seat. Secondly, this kit is useless on a van.
Can you put a 90 on an electrical impact for the van.
Ford is a terrible truck
There Is it great way to avoid all the problems with these Ford engines and their spark plugs just don't buy the damn thing and buy something else that is more reliable I heard horror stories about those Crown Vic police cars the problems with the plugs popping out the problems with the plastic intake manifold leaking the problems with the exhaust manifold leaking the problems with converting the car to a civilian use they just cut all the wires and don't even fix anything they just leave all the wires just hanging there after removing all the police equipment when they get ready to get rid of the car and sell it to a civilian there have been reports they don't chang the transmission filter they just change the oil so you can possibly have a problem with the transmission to and somebody says how reliable this car is
Ha your rite. I have gm ,Chevy and fords. They all have their flaws. Although after fixing the plugs on the ford it’s been pretty reliable “lately”.
How to fix video without showing how to fix 🤦
What more would you need to see.
Throw that thing away and buy a Chevy, I’m Furious after it happened to mine last night, after being babied all of its life.
I have a Chevy 6.0. Engine just blew with 360,000 miles. Best truck out there. For a gasser
"easy 1 hour job but first you need to make sure your valves are closed (BUT NOT SHOW US HOW )
Shoot. So that kit has a valve plug that looks like a well drain plug. Just put it in the spark plug hole and slowly / incrementally crank the engine don’t start it. You will hear the valve plug pop out that’s where I stop. And then hook the valve up to your air compressor if it pops out with pressure your valves are closed.
Would you ever do this as preventative maintenance? Say you were about to drive across the country, would it make sense to do this beforehand just in case?
That’s a good question. I’d do it closer to home and test it out for a few weeks before a big road trip. But I’m chicken 🐓