I don’t know anything about cars. Thank you so much for helping understand the issue I am having with my baby truck. They tried to cheat me out of my truck, now I know what it needs. Thank you!
I've just experienced this very issue with my 1998 4.6. I've watched numerous videos to confirm the best procedures. Yours confirms the proper method. My only suggestion would be to block off the throttle body intake with a rag to prevent any flying metal shards of aluminum getting inside.
I was frozen in fear of working out the bottom dead center part(so as not to drill the piston) but your example of measuring and checking against the length of the drill bit was genius. Thank you.
The one linked in the description. I see that it’s currently unavailable though. Any good red high temp thread locker should work. I am a big fan of permatex products. www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBIB8K/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_DBFNA2BZX73RE8VRTZGN?linkCode=ml2&tag=jeremyfrye0b-20
I have to do this to my f250 it’s my first time doing this job this video really helps. Does the Air push the Piston down? That’s the only part I don’t get
So the air blowing in the spark plug hole is just to know when the valves are closed. When the air blows free through the cylinder it means there is an opening that the air is bypassing through. When you are turning the crankshaft and the valves close it creates pressure in the cylinder popping the hose out and now you know the valves are closed. This is important so you don’t blow metal shards through the valves.
Hey so I saw this video about a month ago, I have an early 2000s cargo van 5.3 and I’ve been trying to do this with the 2nd plug in the passenger side. The van has very limited space and is very fustrating to work on as it is. The issue I’m facing is that when I send the tap down, it stops about a thumbs width away from being complete (the pin touching the insert) it doesn’t want to go any farther. I’ve blown out all the shavings, and when I look down the camera there seems to be most of the thread in. Is there something I’m missing? Plz help I need to get this van moved or the county gonna tow it off. It’s currently being used as a tool shed
I have an 04 Ford F-150 XLT Triton with a 4.6L engine, I just started giving it a tune up and on the third spark plug on the passenger side I couldn’t get the 5/8 spark plug socket on the spark plug. The first two went smooth as silk but this third one I cannot get the socket on there. I grabbed a mirror and flashlight and it looks to me, (I can’t see well) that the plug is stripped, any ideas to help me get this out? I just can’t believe it, I haven’t owned it for that long and it’s the first tuneup I’ve attempted and this is what I’m dealing with. Thanks so much.
You can try to tap a 12 point 15mm on it. If you can’t get that on there you can heat the socket real hot and it will stretch over the plug but chances are it will sacrifice your socket.
This just happened to my 2003 Lincoln Navigator. I bought the kit and started the process but it looks like drill bit and tap are too small for the defective spark plug hole. They bottom out and I can’t drill anything. Any recommendations? Thanks
@@ProjectVenture yes 2 valve. I just realized that my kit is not from Cal-van. It was one cheaper one from Amazon. Just ordered the Cal-van 38900 kit. They both have the same m14-1.25 inserts so not sure why the one I have didn’t work. Any ideas?
@@ProjectVenture just received my Cal-van kit and the same thing happened. Both reamer and tap bottom out and they don’t bite onto anything. I Put the bore scope camera down the spark plug hole and it looks like the previous owner had an issue with this cylinder before since it looks like it has one of those save a thread insert in it. What would you suggest me trying next? Thanks
@@armandosotocastro6613 sounds to me like it has already been repaired badly once and now there is more damage. I’m sorry to say I would recommend replacing the head or taking it to a machine shop that can do a good repair on it.
That's a lot of anti seize i hear you use one small dip to get the spark plug started but i guess you feel like it needs to be heavy loaded but is everyone's preference
If there was ever a reason NOT to buy a Ford, this debacle is sure a great reason not to. A company that builds Thousands of engines that cant even keep the spark plugs installed in the heads. What kind of idiots would buy these vehicles. Oh, lets not forget about the design where the spark plugs break off in the heads. A real POS company !!
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I don’t know anything about cars. Thank you so much for helping understand the issue I am having with my baby truck. They tried to cheat me out of my truck, now I know what it needs. Thank you!
I've just experienced this very issue with my 1998 4.6. I've watched numerous videos to confirm the best procedures. Yours confirms the proper method. My only suggestion would be to block off the throttle body intake with a rag to prevent any flying metal shards of aluminum getting inside.
As a fellow mechanic I applaud you for teaching so well and being such an amazing teacher
I was frozen in fear of working out the bottom dead center part(so as not to drill the piston) but your example of measuring and checking against the length of the drill bit was genius. Thank you.
Glad I could help.
I couldnt have thought of a better way to start a ford video 😭😂
Nice walkthrough. I like how detailed you are compared to other videos. Definitely gonna order the kit for my 98.
Thanks. It’s one of the best investments I have made.
The Pickup I’m Driving, (99 F150 5.4 Triton) Sat For 6 Years With A Blown Plug, And That Was The Problem Ever Since
It’s Running Like A Champ
What thread locker did you use?
The one linked in the description. I see that it’s currently unavailable though. Any good red high temp thread locker should work. I am a big fan of permatex products.
www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBIB8K/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_DBFNA2BZX73RE8VRTZGN?linkCode=ml2&tag=jeremyfrye0b-20
Just happened to me yesterday. '10 5.4 3v
That sucks
I have to do this to my f250 it’s my first time doing this job this video really helps. Does the Air push the Piston down? That’s the only part I don’t get
So the air blowing in the spark plug hole is just to know when the valves are closed. When the air blows free through the cylinder it means there is an opening that the air is bypassing through. When you are turning the crankshaft and the valves close it creates pressure in the cylinder popping the hose out and now you know the valves are closed. This is important so you don’t blow metal shards through the valves.
Man if you’ve had this problem I’m praying for you. This problem w/ the v8 tritons are the biggest pain.
I finally said goodbye to it about a year ago. It was bitter sweet.
What brand of electric ratchet did you use?
Milwaukee M12
Should you clean the threads on the head since using mmo and thread cutting compound? May be an issue for thread locker setting
Do you still have your truck? & how many spark plugs did you have to rethread?
I ended up having to do 3 overall. I sold it about a year ago. I miss it a little.
What kit do I buy for my expadition 1998 Eddie bouer 5.4? Does the kit also come with the spark plug remover? It's stuck in ther
I thing that is number 5 cylinder number 1 cylinder is on massager side of truck
What's the name of that kit on Amazon? I have a ford f250 v10 triton.
There should be a link in the description. If not, here is the link. amzn.to/3FnClRJ
how can you tell which hole needs to be worked on?
Hey so I saw this video about a month ago, I have an early 2000s cargo van 5.3 and I’ve been trying to do this with the 2nd plug in the passenger side. The van has very limited space and is very fustrating to work on as it is. The issue I’m facing is that when I send the tap down, it stops about a thumbs width away from being complete (the pin touching the insert) it doesn’t want to go any farther. I’ve blown out all the shavings, and when I look down the camera there seems to be most of the thread in. Is there something I’m missing? Plz help I need to get this van moved or the county gonna tow it off. It’s currently being used as a tool shed
I’m so sorry I did not see this sooner. Double check and make sure you’re not hitting the top of the piston.
I have an 04 Ford F-150 XLT Triton with a 4.6L engine, I just started giving it a tune up and on the third spark plug on the passenger side I couldn’t get the 5/8 spark plug socket on the spark plug. The first two went smooth as silk but this third one I cannot get the socket on there. I grabbed a mirror and flashlight and it looks to me, (I can’t see well) that the plug is stripped, any ideas to help me get this out? I just can’t believe it, I haven’t owned it for that long and it’s the first tuneup I’ve attempted and this is what I’m dealing with. Thanks so much.
You can try to tap a 12 point 15mm on it. If you can’t get that on there you can heat the socket real hot and it will stretch over the plug but chances are it will sacrifice your socket.
This just happened to my 2003 Lincoln Navigator. I bought the kit and started the process but it looks like drill bit and tap are too small for the defective spark plug hole. They bottom out and I can’t drill anything. Any recommendations? Thanks
Are you sure it is the same 2 valve engine?
@@ProjectVenture yes 2 valve. I just realized that my kit is not from Cal-van. It was one cheaper one from Amazon. Just ordered the Cal-van 38900 kit. They both have the same m14-1.25 inserts so not sure why the one I have didn’t work. Any ideas?
@@ProjectVenture just received my Cal-van kit and the same thing happened. Both reamer and tap bottom out and they don’t bite onto anything. I Put the bore scope camera down the spark plug hole and it looks like the previous owner had an issue with this cylinder before since it looks like it has one of those save a thread insert in it. What would you suggest me trying next? Thanks
@@armandosotocastro6613 sounds to me like it has already been repaired badly once and now there is more damage. I’m sorry to say I would recommend replacing the head or taking it to a machine shop that can do a good repair on it.
That's a lot of anti seize i hear you use one small dip to get the spark plug started but i guess you feel like it needs to be heavy loaded but is everyone's preference
I’ve seen them break from seizing in the head. I just want to make extra sure they will come out. 😂
If there was ever a reason NOT to buy a Ford, this debacle is sure a great reason not to. A company that builds Thousands of engines that cant even keep the spark plugs installed in the heads. What kind of idiots would buy these vehicles. Oh, lets not forget about the design where the spark plugs break off in the heads. A real POS company !!