No matter what anyone tells you. Do not change your style of teaching or length of video... Very thoughtfully put together, thank you and you son for doing these... Blessings!
Awesome! I have had a few comments similar to this one and it is very important to be thorough in transmission work I’m doing my best! Hence the longer videos. Those of you out there really attempting to grasp this stuff gets it! Appreciate the comment!
Thanks for all of your videos they are super informative. Almost done rebuilding my wife's transmission out of Excursion and your videos gave me the courage to give it a shot. Fingers crossed, thanks again Marshall
Love it ! Yes Sir your very welcome! I wish you all the success on your rebuild let me know how it turns out ? Close attention is key sounds like your making it happen !
Thank You sir ! It is a tricky one but hopefully this clears up the confusion around it ! It’s difficult explaining it in text but when you see it in video it all makes sense.
I took a chance and ordered a USUG1000-203J thermistor from Digi-Key to replace mine in the transmission as it is 20 K at room temperature and has 5 percent tolerance. Soldered it into my solenoid pack and the flashing OD light went away! Cheapest repair ever!
Good explanation and valuable info. Professional. But about the used solenoid block there is one more issue that is not been tested . And this problem is leaking ATF from the inside the connector between the needles of the pins and the plastic body of the female connector . This problem is known for the electrical plug of Mercedes 722.6 trans and the oil go inside true the wires going to the TCM an turning it into limp mode. So I have some idea how to repair this but I want to hear also another opinion. If the solenoid block is "re manufactured" with a brake cleaner and a air gun we don't know it is was leaking or not. And eater that the ATF is not conductive , the used ATF is contaminated with a fine metal molecules from the wearing metal parts inside the transmission an they turning it into conductive fluid that also cen put the TCM into limp mode.
What would your opinion be on a solenoid that seems lazy or doesn't react as quickly to the test? Shift solenoid A - if I tap the pin quickly the ball doesn't open right away - you hear a click, then the ball opens. Like a slight delay. The other solenoids as soon as you touch the pin making the connection you hear the click and instant ball movement, even if I quick tap the pin the ball moves instantly on the other 2. Thanks for the Informative video by the way!
Is the solenoid pack clean or is it full of transmission fluid. That ball staying up could just be a fluid film holding for a second. Break clean it and see if it changes. Either way that’s most likely not a problem. Unless the plastic ball seat is distorted/damaged in any way
You were correct. I cleaned it out this morning and rechecked them all and they seem to be functioning as intended. This trans is in a 04 Ford Lightning pick up I bought recently. May have a Valve body but I don't have paperwork to confirm it. My only real issues are: 1 - 2 shift is pretty aggressive just cruising down the street. Sometimes will chirp the tires. Other issue is the upshift, I'd say 2nd and up. Seems to hang before shifting to the next gear. This is pretty consistent when accelerating - not WOT just 3/4 throttle approx. If you have any suggestions or more advice I'd gladly listen! 👍🤘
@@muffpipe84 yeah interesting. Best thing to do for rough shifting is check line pressure to see if it’s high for any reason. Or the valvebody is just to beefed up/shiftkitted to much. As far as the late shifting that’s all computer controlled. The two main sensors affecting shift TIMING are the throttle position sensor and The Vehicle speed sensor. It’s possible the throttle position sensor is not giving proper readings to the computer.
Marshall looking for some help please! 02 f250 7.3 4r100. Throwing trans code p0750 p0755 p0743 and p0541 ive replace the solenoid block and torque converter and didnt fix my issue. The truck acts like it’s taking off in 3rd gear, but it you manually put it in first it does okay… got any ideas what it could be? It did have quite a bit of metal on the magnet and torque converter sounded like marbles in a can rattling around. Any help would be awesome
Hey Marshall, do you have Facebook, I need to ask a long question or questions. Long story short is snap on scanner says that the truck still thinks it’s on park all the time, won’t up or downshift? I have replaced the neutral switch and ohm the coil pacs like you said 👍 you think the transmission Harness is bad. Already checked the ECU and seeing no codes. I even took it to the transmission shop and had it gone through again and I have no answers. Please help😢
@@marshallsanders5672 I pulled the transmission wire harness out of the truck and was ohm the wires out, found three broken wires. Trying to figure out what the are. I have pictures
That is a good question, I've never seen an actual voltage pressure scale. But I imagine a person could go Inline with the EPC computer control wire (not the 12v supply to the EPC)with an amp Gauge like I show in the video. At Idle around 70 PSI the gauge should read appx.1.2 amps as the throttle is slowly opened the Pressure will rise from 70psi and the AMPERAGE should drop to probably around .1 amps at full throttle 170 psi in drive. You can also see the EPC amperage on a scanner parameter as well around 1.2 at idle and drop down to about .1 the more you hit the throttle all the way to WOT.
@@gilbertstrategos I'm assuming that's at Idle which is to high for both gears. You need to power brake it a bit and see if there is "Line Rise"/Pressure Rise the more you hit the throttle or is the pressure Stuck High ? and what the voltage reading is when you power brake it does it drop ?
@@marshallsanders5672 On power braking, the pressure rose to 200psi at 3000rpms, then turned key off, shot up to 240 bump then came down to 105. Wasnt getting a change in voltage, probrobly have to swap the connector (exposed wires). Disconnected connector, stayed at 200psi
I have a non pwm trans. I know the lock up wont work with the pWM. But i have to move my project vehicles becuase an ashole neighbor called code enforcement on me. My rebuild worked fine, but outbof the blue wont shift past second. I just want to move the car before im penalized. Will it work just minus the lock up? Could be one of the valves stuck inbtbe valve body? I will order the right one. Its a 1999 f250 v10 made in 8/98 and has the on off solenoid
Totally could be a valve in the valvebody sticky ! It will work without lock-up but can’t run long that way! It’ll overheat the fluid without lock-up working properly depending on your driving habits !
No matter what anyone tells you. Do not change your style of teaching or length of video... Very thoughtfully put together, thank you and you son for doing these... Blessings!
Awesome! I have had a few comments similar to this one and it is very important to be thorough in transmission work I’m doing my best! Hence the longer videos. Those of you out there really attempting to grasp this stuff gets it! Appreciate the comment!
I like when Sanders goes down that rabbit hole
Thank You Sir ! Appreciate the appreciation if you will ! All important in transmission land !
Thanks for all of your videos they are super informative. Almost done rebuilding my wife's transmission out of Excursion and your videos gave me the courage to give it a shot. Fingers crossed, thanks again Marshall
Love it ! Yes Sir your very welcome! I wish you all the success on your rebuild let me know how it turns out ? Close attention is key sounds like your making it happen !
Great video Marshall. This answers all questions about one of the hardest solenoids to diagnose. Great job! Testing that PWM solenoid is a bear.
Thank You sir ! It is a tricky one but hopefully this clears up the confusion around it ! It’s difficult explaining it in text but when you see it in video it all makes sense.
I took a chance and ordered a USUG1000-203J thermistor from Digi-Key to replace mine in the transmission as it is 20 K at room temperature and has 5 percent tolerance. Soldered it into my solenoid pack and the flashing OD light went away! Cheapest repair ever!
That’s awesome! Sometimes it’s a simple fix. Great job thinking outside the box
@@marshallsanders5672Yes! I used your videos to estimate that the room temp resistance would be 20K and rolled the dice.
Very cool!
Thanks Marshall, love your videos
John, Appreciate it thanks for watching !
Nice job i was looking for how check those good job
I love this video, that's a very good explanation, but I'd like to know where I can find that diagram
Thanks for this valuable technical imformation.
Good explanation and valuable info. Professional. But about the used solenoid block there is one more issue that is not been tested . And this problem is leaking ATF from the inside the connector between the needles of the pins and the plastic body of the female connector . This problem is known for the electrical plug of Mercedes 722.6 trans and the oil go inside true the wires going to the TCM an turning it into limp mode. So I have some idea how to repair this but I want to hear also another opinion. If the solenoid block is "re manufactured" with a brake cleaner and a air gun we don't know it is was leaking or not. And eater that the ATF is not conductive , the used ATF is contaminated with a fine metal molecules from the wearing metal parts inside the transmission an they turning it into conductive fluid that also cen put the TCM into limp mode.
What about checking each solenoids resistance to ground?
What would your opinion be on a solenoid that seems lazy or doesn't react as quickly to the test?
Shift solenoid A - if I tap the pin quickly the ball doesn't open right away - you hear a click, then the ball opens. Like a slight delay.
The other solenoids as soon as you touch the pin making the connection you hear the click and instant ball movement, even if I quick tap the pin the ball moves instantly on the other 2.
Thanks for the Informative video by the way!
Is the solenoid pack clean or is it full of transmission fluid. That ball staying up could just be a fluid film holding for a second. Break clean it and see if it changes. Either way that’s most likely not a problem. Unless the plastic ball seat is distorted/damaged in any way
You were correct. I cleaned it out this morning and rechecked them all and they seem to be functioning as intended.
This trans is in a 04 Ford Lightning pick up I bought recently. May have a Valve body but I don't have paperwork to confirm it.
My only real issues are:
1 - 2 shift is pretty aggressive just cruising down the street. Sometimes will chirp the tires.
Other issue is the upshift, I'd say 2nd and up. Seems to hang before shifting to the next gear. This is pretty consistent when accelerating - not WOT just 3/4 throttle approx.
If you have any suggestions or more advice I'd gladly listen! 👍🤘
@@muffpipe84 yeah interesting. Best thing to do for rough shifting is check line pressure to see if it’s high for any reason. Or the valvebody is just to beefed up/shiftkitted to much.
As far as the late shifting that’s all computer controlled.
The two main sensors affecting shift TIMING are the throttle position sensor and
The Vehicle speed sensor. It’s possible the throttle position sensor is not giving proper readings to the computer.
Marshall looking for some help please! 02 f250 7.3 4r100. Throwing trans code p0750 p0755 p0743 and p0541 ive replace the solenoid block and torque converter and didnt fix my issue. The truck acts like it’s taking off in 3rd gear, but it you manually put it in first it does okay… got any ideas what it could be? It did have quite a bit of metal on the magnet and torque converter sounded like marbles in a can rattling around. Any help would be awesome
Hey Marshall, do you have Facebook, I need to ask a long question or questions. Long story short is snap on scanner says that the truck still thinks it’s on park all the time, won’t up or downshift? I have replaced the neutral switch and ohm the coil pacs like you said 👍 you think the transmission Harness is bad. Already checked the ECU and seeing no codes. I even took it to the transmission shop and had it gone through again and I have no answers. Please help😢
Yep I do have facebook, Marshall Sanders search me up friend me and you can Message me
Is it taking off in 1st gear or one of the higher gears?
@@marshallsanders5672
I pulled the transmission wire harness out of the truck and was ohm the wires out, found three broken wires. Trying to figure out what the are. I have pictures
Excelent explanation.
Is a 4x4 E4OD solenoid interchangeable with a E4OD 2WD?
Yes the Solenoid Packs themselves are interchangeable !
Looking for info on how to test EPC control voltage
With the vehicle KOER, a chart with pressure /votage readings
That is a good question, I've never seen an actual voltage pressure scale. But I imagine a person could go Inline with the EPC computer control wire (not the 12v supply to the EPC)with an amp Gauge like I show in the video. At Idle around 70 PSI the gauge should read appx.1.2 amps as the throttle is slowly opened the Pressure will rise from 70psi and the AMPERAGE should drop to probably around .1 amps at full throttle 170 psi in drive.
You can also see the EPC amperage on a scanner parameter as well around 1.2 at idle and drop down to about .1 the more you hit the throttle all the way to WOT.
Line pressure is 105psi in D
@@gilbertstrategos I'm assuming that's at Idle which is to high for both gears. You need to power brake it a bit and see if there is "Line Rise"/Pressure Rise the more you hit the throttle or is the pressure Stuck High ? and what the voltage reading is when you power brake it does it drop ?
@@marshallsanders5672 On power braking, the pressure rose to 200psi at 3000rpms, then turned key off, shot up to 240 bump then came down to 105. Wasnt getting a change in voltage, probrobly have to swap the connector (exposed wires). Disconnected connector, stayed at 200psi
I have a non pwm trans. I know the lock up wont work with the pWM. But i have to move my project vehicles becuase an ashole neighbor called code enforcement on me. My rebuild worked fine, but outbof the blue wont shift past second. I just want to move the car before im penalized. Will it work just minus the lock up? Could be one of the valves stuck inbtbe valve body?
I will order the right one. Its a 1999 f250 v10 made in 8/98 and has the on off solenoid
Totally could be a valve in the valvebody sticky ! It will work without lock-up but can’t run long that way! It’ll overheat the fluid without lock-up working properly depending on your driving habits !
@@marshallsanders5672 I may pull out the valve body and check . It just did it out of the blue.
Thank You New Sub F350 7.3 4R100 Oh on 3 one Do One Myself None Last Forever So Got To Tech It My Self Now. I Have Core
Awesome appreciate that! Welcome to the channel!