excellent, thank you. I've been looking for instructions for carving basket weave into the handles. I think I'm ready to give it a go. Excellent work, excellent video, thanks!
I really liked the rust oxide idea, I've been letting a batch sit for about 2 months and am going to give it a go on a Sgian Dubh I've been working on for my uncle
Yeah, the British Gov't did some heinous stuff to our people. What they did to Wales is even worse. My ancestor was one of the minor nobles who fought to put Bonnie Prince Charlie back where beloged but they lost. Luckily for me though, he had thought ahead & sent his family here to the USA to keep em safe.
The dirk was held in the weak (usually left) hand along with the targe, with the blade extending past the edge. The strong hand held the Claidheamh Mòr (basket hilt sword) during the 'highland charge'. The targe was used to sweep the bayonet to the side so a step in could be taken for a sword cut, if the opponent came inside measure (too close for the sword) then the dirk would come into play stabbing into a shoulder or neck. This would take place after an initial volley with rifles which would then be thrown down and the sword and targe taken up. Unfortunately at Culloden, English cannon grape shot decimated the Scottish charge before the charge could be pressed home. I believe it was the left wing of the Scottish line at Culloden that did get into the English lines, and they wrecked havoc, but the battle was still lost, the wounded and captured executed by bayonet on the spot, unless they were nobles which were taken south and executed .........
Beautiful blade! I’m not sure how the pommel cap was fixed on the original, but I know most were threaded on rather than peened. The purpose of that was to stick a piece of redcoat uniform between the grip and pommel.
Nice work, I'd really be interested to see how you went about making the sheath/ scabbard as well
A very decent dirk indeed young man,very decent.Congratulations from scotland...well done.
excellent, thank you. I've been looking for instructions for carving basket weave into the handles. I think I'm ready to give it a go. Excellent work, excellent video, thanks!
That's what I'm here for! If you get around to it I'd like to see what you do
I really liked the rust oxide idea, I've been letting a batch sit for about 2 months and am going to give it a go on a Sgian Dubh I've been working on for my uncle
That'll be killer!
@@dhknifeworks3362 thanks!
@@dhknifeworks3362 this is how it ended up turning out, thanks again for the info on how to make that stain:) instagram.com/p/CgvWh64DPuC/
Very nice! Add a Targe and you are all set.
Yeah, the British Gov't did some heinous stuff to our people. What they did to Wales is even worse. My ancestor was one of the minor nobles who fought to put Bonnie Prince Charlie back where beloged but they lost. Luckily for me though, he had thought ahead & sent his family here to the USA to keep em safe.
The dirk was held in the weak (usually left) hand along with the targe, with the blade extending past the edge. The strong hand held the Claidheamh Mòr (basket hilt sword) during the 'highland charge'. The targe was used to sweep the bayonet to the side so a step in could be taken for a sword cut, if the opponent came inside measure (too close for the sword) then the dirk would come into play stabbing into a shoulder or neck. This would take place after an initial volley with rifles which would then be thrown down and the sword and targe taken up. Unfortunately at Culloden, English cannon grape shot decimated the Scottish charge before the charge could be pressed home. I believe it was the left wing of the Scottish line at Culloden that did get into the English lines, and they wrecked havoc, but the battle was still lost, the wounded and captured executed by bayonet on the spot, unless they were nobles which were taken south and executed .........
I believe some targes also had a removable spike that screwed into the centre of the front of it.
Seems simple to make. I'll give it a shot.
Beautiful blade! I’m not sure how the pommel cap was fixed on the original, but I know most were threaded on rather than peened. The purpose of that was to stick a piece of redcoat uniform between the grip and pommel.