Very nice video for the use of timing lights! Only thing I’d suggest is the mention of disconnecting vacuum advance (for those who are using it) and plugging the carb and distributor before measuring total timing, or mechanical advance with the light. Some newbies forget this step. Of course it’s not applicable if someone is running only mechanical advance but I wouldn’t suspect many newbies would.
Thanks and Happy New Years, I follow you almost perfectly. When u state 6 degrees and show it from where you're at, it might b a bit more visually friendly to bring in the camera shot, maybe if possible walk slowly into a closeup shot, this is what the home shop was all about in the 50s, 60s. 70s, when we can fix what we manufactured here at home in the States. I have a 37. & 1948 Dodge Coupe w/ 218.7, homeland fuel resources are being threatened as well as the Classic Dodge and others. Just saying. Thanks again for your time and effort to teach us, so focus up folks!
Good job it'd be nice if you would take them from start to finish on break in with a flat tappet cam!" You seem to have a natural knack for teaching and this would be great for your beginners👍 I'm assuming that's the design of your sight I live in a totally different world with dual dual mags 😉👍 once again great job and I do appreciate your sight very much👍
Yea Dual Mag's are definitely a different world high end drag racing I have run magnetos on a few street cars you got to be careful with the amperage it can be lethal
Yea the older ones with no degree meter are really only effective for bone stock engines with a big cam Initial Timing means nothing it can vary greatly depending on cam grind
You are the first person to explain this and it make sense to me, thank you! You didn’t mention anything about connecting or disconnecting vacuum advance. If vacuum advance is disconnected like they suggest you do, how is that considered showing total timing? Because when you connect the vacuum back up and rev the engine then it’s going to advance further, correct?
Engines loose vacuum when the throttle is open so vacuum advance has nothing to do with total timing it’s more for light load and starting purposes I set mine at 32 total and leave the vacuum disconnected and they are 10:5:1 or 12:5:1 mildly built for circle track racing and they start fine and don’t kill starters some guys run fully locked distributors and say 32 is 32 when setting timing, but them guys generally spin the engine first then add ignition otherwise it bucks the starter hardcore not ideal for daily drivers obviously
Vac advance only effects timing slightly above idle it has no effect on total by the time you get to 1500 to 1800 rpm your Vac advance is done it will affect timing at low rpm but honestly, I never worry about initial timing only total, I do recommend disconnecting and blocking it when checking timing
Thanks for the video..... My timing light doesn't have the adjustment to pick the degrees.We always timed at low speed with vacuum disconnected and low rpm to achieve timing B.TDC>.. I have always wondered how your kind of lights work to compensate to proper degree setting at TDC. on our Snowmobile engines back in the day we timed them at 6000 RPMS. Thanks again!.
What temp thermostat do you recommend for 350 small block chevy? I currently have no thermostat and truck runs at 165-185 degrees. Or should I leave it as is? I enjoy watching and learning from your videos. Keep up the great work.
Great video and just to clarify when the strobe is at zero at idle you’re showing 10 degrees old school style but in advanced mode your setting 30 to reach 0. As so far I’ve only messed with a non advanced light but just got one with it. Question is are you plugging the distributor vacuum advance or leaving it connected? As I hope to mess with the advance style setting hopefully tomorrow and taking notes. Thank you
Centrifugal, or mechanical advance is a speed sensing device, vacuum advance is a load sensing device. The ladder allows one to run more advance on light load for better fuel economy
Very good video I will be starting my 72 montecarlo it has a 350 stroke to 388 will the timing have to be set up differently. I’m self taught on cars I would appreciate any input information thank you very good video 👍
When you had the timing light at 0, you had 6 degrees BTDC on the damper..When you add 30 to the timing light that moved the mark way down..As the engine revs to make the mark move up to zero, wouldn't that be a total of 36 degrees? Or maybe 24 degrees if I am looking at it backwards..?? I would set the engine at 0 advance(runs like terrible), set the timing light to zero and then you advance the distributor to 6..I am just wondering if it is 36 or 24 or it is correct the way you did it..
After that you have to experiment with the rpm total timing comes in, that means picking the right springs for the weights in your distributor. For me it's around 2500rpm at about 34 to 38 degrees on my SBCs, it depends on your combination.
This use to be easy cause most of us timed our own engines.... But with modern cars timing is now computer controlled and most people can't understand the concept of engine timing and turning a dizzy or advancing/retarding a cam or chain.... You've explained it very well now no one has any excuse not too know how to time a classic!😁👍
Dude do a video on retrofit roller cams and old block versus the TBI block roller cam buttons springs you need how to put LS springs on a vortec but offset keepers because we only got a small party information about roller cams from you thank you sir
If only you have released this video 6 months ago. Neverthanless, I did manage to set the correct timing with OBD EFI with the notches on the flywheel/timing marks. It is important to make the engine, if it's a EFI, go into a service mode, where all the timing controlled by the computer is turned off. I couldn't manage to rev it up, since the engine automatically goes out of the service mode, but I did set it up as what the manual calls for. Had it waay too much advanced. It just feels like it's a bit sluggish now and gulps a bit more of a fuel. Any ideas as to why?
Just subscribed. Great detail video. I have 350 chevy small block. On my advanced setting set to 30 at 2,800 rpm I get timming to 0. But now I notice a clunking sound from exhaust. Any suggestions? I'm new to car scene and I'm learning about car. My c10 truck has Edelbrock carburetor 1407 1498. Thanks
Off subject . I have a 300 hp 327 small journal. I was told all small journal have forged cranks. To build a 7000 rpm engine I was told I only need Forged pistons and better rods and the 2 bolt with factory crank is good up to about 500hp. Is that accurate Info?
I’d really like to see a detailed video discussing how ignition timing works. For example, what static timing is versus mechanical/centrifugal versus vacuum. Also, how to adjust total timing and know that your okay with where the initial timing ends up. Curve kits, etc.
Just make sure that with number one cylinder at top dead center, the timing mark is at zero before doing anything else first. Over the years, I have run into a few harmonic balancers that had spun slightly on the rubber lining!!!
The engine, a 4-cylinder 22RE, on my 89 Toyota pickup got wet, and I had to change the airflow sensor. Although doing that got the truck going again, I might have thrown the timing out while trying to fix it because the idle is still very rough. Can I make the timing better from just adjusting the position of the distributer without necessarily using a timing gun? Another thing is that I think there's too much grease build up on the timing cover and balancer to see a degree setting, or does the gun somehow let you see what's needed even if there's grease buildup covering that area? Thanks.
I would not mess with timing without a light you could cause engine damage if it's advanced to far why do you think the timing changed? did you move the distributor?
Hi I wanted ask if I have 10 initial timing and I want 34 total . I rev engine 3000rpm do I set my timing light at 34 or at 24? Was confused on this part
I have small chevy 350 with mild cam. I tune engine to advance 35 at 3000 rpm tdc. On idle its running 12 degrees before tdc. When using vacuum meter to adjust my edelbrock carburetor the best number I could get it was 14. Truck sounds good but would I cause a problem with the engine? I have not check the springs inside carburetor. Would you please offer any suggestions I would appreciate.
I would go right to total you don't worry about timing at idle set total at 3K RPM and where ever initial ends up that's where it stays it will usually be 8 to 10 degrees
That's not quite how I understand it to work. So correct me if I'm wrong.. I own a 1995 gmc Sierra k2500 4x4 with the 5.7/350. And on the decal it says the timing for that engine is "0" degrees..so I set my timing light for "0" degrees and and unplugged my brown wire for the computer started the truck up and rotated the distributor till my timing marks lined up at "0" degrees. I tightened the distributor shut the engine off and plugged the brown wire back in and started the truck back up . I don't remember exactly what the advanced timing was somewhere between 15 I think and 20 advanced but I could be wrong about that .. but the engine does run excellent. It's not hard to start at all. Turn the key and starts instantly. So would that be correct ???
You are comparing a computer-controlled ignition (TBI) to an HEI and a carb, it's apples and oranges, in your case the timing is advanced by the computer so 0 is the baseline and the CPU takes over and does the rest without a computer (Carb and HEI) setting at 0 will not work
I race dirt circle track here in South Carolina we have to run completely stock motors in your opinion what is the best timing degree for performance on a stock 350
That depends on your fuel you want to advance it as far as possible without pinging (detonation) the best power I have seen is 36 degrees for a SBC with flat piston and closed chamber head but that was with good gas our fuel these days isn't that good if you're running totally stock you have dished pistons and an open chamber head 7.9 to 1 compression IE: lower compression this will allow more timing with low grade fuel you kind of need to play with it to find the sweet spot 87 octane probably won't like much more than 33-34 degrees with your low compression you could probably get away with 36 and premium fuel but is also depends on you altitude and humidity levels they have a pretty dramatic effect on timing as well
Gday from OZ, mate watch n love your stuff, very well worded and so easy to understand. Got a question on timing, rebui8lty an engine, 4cl toy, over double the horspower of stock, no dyno for a thousand miles, so, have been told big webers, go direct to 38 degrees total timing, which is what i have, but ? no knocking that i can hear, so, add some more, take some out, leave it therte ?| 10.5-1 instead of 8.5-1, cnc worked head, twin dcoe webers, custom one of cam, med 6al-2 ignition system. custum headers to 2 1/4 exhaust How do you calculate correct timing when u leave stock behind ?
Usually they stop advancing somewhere between 3 and 4K. You basically rev it up til it stops moving set it to your desired overall and lock the distributor down, there’s only one setting. if you set your overall to 32 then your base timing is what it is if you set your base timing to say 6 degrees with vac. advance unhooked it’s gonna advance to whatever the distributor advances to from there which may be higher than a desired of say 32 so I think that’s why he’s sharing the video because you don’t wanna set your base at 12 and be 45 overall on a higher compression engine because it will destroy itself so important to check overall, ideally dyno session with carb and timing adjustments to find out your happy place but even a blind squirrel finds a nut from my experience you build a little domer 355 or 383 it’s gonna live at 32 degrees total timing
for total timing you will be all in around 3000 to 3500 depending on ignition system and engine and yes with engine at idle disconnect the vac advance and plug the hose sorry I forgot to mention that in the video
@@Myvintageiron7512 Hi, hey so why again do we need to remove the vacuum advance hose and test it out of normal functioning condition? Being that when it is actually running regularly it is with vacuum advance hose on ???
I bought it at AutoZone it's not top of the line, but it does work well I also have Snap-On Light, but I didn't want to use that for this video it might scare people off not wanting to spend the money I think I paid about $80.00 for the one in the video the Snap-On light is $350.00 the AutoZone brand works just as good I compared the timing of this one with the expensive timing gun from Snap-On they read exactly the same so you don't need the high priced light
The next thing you do is rev the engine up until the timing stops advancing and dial the timing light back to 0 to find the total advance the engine is at.
Just to check? If you started with 6 degrees. And you 30 total. Wouldn’t you want it to say 6 degrees when you rev it up. Because the light is not getting the signal until 6 degrees
The timing light is set for 34 when you Rev it up and the timing advances just make sure your mark is on zero it’s actually 34 degrees because that is what you have set your light for basically your retarding your light 34 degrees so when it advances to zero your actually at 34
Just trying to learn... so, my distributor has 24 degrees of total advance built into it at 3,000 rpm on a machine. So... to get it to 34 degrees total timing at 3,000 rpm, I need to basically retard (after top dead center or 0 degrees) the timing 10 degrees after while idling. That way, as the advance comes in, it will come back to the zero mark on the pointer at 3,000 rpm. Is that correct for the initial timing?
I've watched maybe 10 of these videos and none of this made any sense to me until I watched this one. Now I understand it perfectly. Thank you.
Hands down the best detailed video on how to use a timing light for initial timing and total timing advance. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Wow! Vintage Iron is back!! Love the hell out of this mans content. It seemed like it went away for a while. I’ll be watching if he keeps publishing
Very nice video for the use of timing lights! Only thing I’d suggest is the mention of disconnecting vacuum advance (for those who are using it) and plugging the carb and distributor before measuring total timing, or mechanical advance with the light. Some newbies forget this step. Of course it’s not applicable if someone is running only mechanical advance but I wouldn’t suspect many newbies would.
Honestly, I'm glad you commented because I knew about the vacuum line but I had to learn what mechanical advance was because my 350 has it
After dozens of RUclipss this is the one that made sense. Thank you sir. Very interesting point about chamber size.
great explanation, and nice use of props ;) Appreciate your taking the time to explain things, folks can certainly learn a lot!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very good explanation. I watched several videos about this topic but couldn’t understand how it works. Now I got it.👏👏
Thank you, You just explained a advance gun operation better then anything on the net. Now I can use to set timing on my 69 Beaumont.
I watched alot of your stuff or my first small block block. Your voice brings back the old days
Good to see you, Vintage!! Loving the videos! Thanks for sticking around!!
You bet!
Thanks so much for the videos. For a guy like me starting his very first complete engine build, your content is awesome!
Thanks and Happy New Years, I follow you almost perfectly. When u state 6 degrees and show it from where you're at, it might b a bit more visually friendly to bring in the camera shot, maybe if possible walk slowly into a closeup shot, this is what the home shop was all about in the 50s, 60s. 70s, when we can fix what we manufactured here at home in the States. I have a 37. & 1948 Dodge Coupe w/ 218.7, homeland fuel resources are being threatened as well as the Classic Dodge and others.
Just saying. Thanks again for your time and effort to teach us, so focus up folks!
Good job it'd be nice if you would take them from start to finish on break in with a flat tappet cam!" You seem to have a natural knack for teaching and this would be great for your beginners👍 I'm assuming that's the design of your sight I live in a totally different world with dual dual mags 😉👍 once again great job and I do appreciate your sight very much👍
Yea Dual Mag's are definitely a different world high end drag racing I have run magnetos on a few street cars you got to be careful with the amperage it can be lethal
Great video found this very helpful and you covered all parts!
Excellent description. I learned a bit even though I'm a mechanic. I deal with newer vehicles.
Great to hear!
Great to see you back thanks for all the great info!!
Thanks for watching!
Great video. I always wanted to see how those fancy timing lights worked. My 50 something year old craftsman ain't got that! Thanks
Yea the older ones with no degree meter are really only effective for bone stock engines with a big cam Initial Timing means nothing it can vary greatly depending on cam grind
Super insightful! Wonderful to see more content from you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Always the best videos!!! Very helpful!!!
You are the first person to explain this and it make sense to me, thank you! You didn’t mention anything about connecting or disconnecting vacuum advance. If vacuum advance is disconnected like they suggest you do, how is that considered showing total timing? Because when you connect the vacuum back up and rev the engine then it’s going to advance further, correct?
Flathead Terry in Canada and on utube does a good instruction.
Engines loose vacuum when the throttle is open so vacuum advance has nothing to do with total timing it’s more for light load and starting purposes I set mine at 32 total and leave the vacuum disconnected and they are 10:5:1 or 12:5:1 mildly built for circle track racing and they start fine and don’t kill starters some guys run fully locked distributors and say 32 is 32 when setting timing, but them guys generally spin the engine first then add ignition otherwise it bucks the starter hardcore not ideal for daily drivers obviously
Vac advance only effects timing slightly above idle it has no effect on total by the time you get to 1500 to 1800 rpm your Vac advance is done it will affect timing at low rpm but honestly, I never worry about initial timing only total, I do recommend disconnecting and blocking it when checking timing
Your very good at what you do, I really appreciate it.
God Bless
I appreciate that
Man this was helpful thank, love the motor stand!
Thanks for the video.....
My timing light doesn't have the adjustment to pick the degrees.We always timed at low speed with vacuum disconnected and low rpm to achieve timing B.TDC>.. I have always wondered how your kind of lights work to compensate to proper degree setting at TDC. on our Snowmobile engines back in the day we timed them at 6000 RPMS. Thanks again!.
Camera did a decent job of showing timing light if you ask me. Good video
What temp thermostat do you recommend for 350 small block chevy? I currently have no thermostat and truck runs at 165-185 degrees. Or should I leave it as is? I enjoy watching and learning from your videos. Keep up the great work.
Ok what happens to the total advance when you hook back up your hose to the distributor. It's going g to move the advance higher than 30 right
This video helped me out a lot very nice awesome thanks for the great video’s of all time ❤❤❤
Glad it was helpful
Great video and just to clarify when the strobe is at zero at idle you’re showing 10 degrees old school style but in advanced mode your setting 30 to reach 0. As so far I’ve only messed with a non advanced light but just got one with it.
Question is are you plugging the distributor vacuum advance or leaving it connected? As I hope to mess with the advance style setting hopefully tomorrow and taking notes. Thank you
Awesome vid. Really appreciated. Thanks
Another great video--thank you.
Good explanation, it helped me a ton!
Glad it helped!
Nice, video. Thanks for taking the time to make it.👍
Centrifugal, or mechanical advance is a speed sensing device, vacuum advance is a load sensing device. The ladder allows one to run more advance on light load for better fuel economy
Very good video I will be starting my 72 montecarlo it has a 350 stroke to 388 will the timing have to be set up differently. I’m self taught on cars I would appreciate any input information thank you very good video 👍
When you had the timing light at 0, you had 6 degrees BTDC on the damper..When you add 30 to the timing light that moved the mark way down..As the engine revs to make the mark move up to zero, wouldn't that be a total of 36 degrees? Or maybe 24 degrees if I am looking at it backwards..??
I would set the engine at 0 advance(runs like terrible), set the timing light to zero and then you advance the distributor to 6..I am just wondering if it is 36 or 24 or it is correct the way you did it..
Nice video well presented, Thank you Sir!
After that you have to experiment with the rpm total timing comes in, that means picking the right springs for the weights in your distributor. For me it's around 2500rpm at about 34 to 38 degrees on my SBCs, it depends on your combination.
Really good explanation- thanks
Great video. What should full manifold vaccum be on 350 sbc?
Wow I really appreciate this video thanks
This use to be easy cause most of us timed our own engines.... But with modern cars timing is now computer controlled and most people can't understand the concept of engine timing and turning a dizzy or advancing/retarding a cam or chain.... You've explained it very well now no one has any excuse not too know how to time a classic!😁👍
Dude do a video on retrofit roller cams and old block versus the TBI block roller cam buttons springs you need how to put LS springs on a vortec but offset keepers because we only got a small party information about roller cams from you thank you sir
If only you have released this video 6 months ago. Neverthanless, I did manage to set the correct timing with OBD EFI with the notches on the flywheel/timing marks. It is important to make the engine, if it's a EFI, go into a service mode, where all the timing controlled by the computer is turned off.
I couldn't manage to rev it up, since the engine automatically goes out of the service mode, but I did set it up as what the manual calls for. Had it waay too much advanced. It just feels like it's a bit sluggish now and gulps a bit more of a fuel. Any ideas as to why?
Just subscribed. Great detail video. I have 350 chevy small block. On my advanced setting set to 30 at 2,800 rpm I get timming to 0. But now I notice a clunking sound from exhaust. Any suggestions? I'm new to car scene and I'm learning about car. My c10 truck has Edelbrock carburetor 1407 1498. Thanks
Off subject . I have a 300 hp 327 small journal. I was told all small journal have forged cranks. To build a 7000 rpm engine I was told I only need Forged pistons and better rods and the 2 bolt with factory crank is good up to about 500hp. Is that accurate Info?
I have a 1984 Monte Carlo ss 305. The only time I see the timing mark is when I put the light on 56 degrees. Do you know why?
I live in Southern California. What fuel should I use for 350 chevy small block engine?
Really helpful this video thanks
Are you unplugging the vacuum advance on the distributor when getting initial timing and plugging it back in for your total timing?
What if your timing chain cover is not matching the balancer marks?
Just learned how to use a VACCUM gage and now I’m learning this
I’d really like to see a detailed video discussing how ignition timing works. For example, what static timing is versus mechanical/centrifugal versus vacuum. Also, how to adjust total timing and know that your okay with where the initial timing ends up. Curve kits, etc.
Very helpful. Thanks!
Great explanation! Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Great explanation. Thanks!!
Glad it was helpful!
Just make sure that with number one cylinder at top dead center, the timing mark is at zero before doing anything else first. Over the years, I have run into a few harmonic balancers that had spun slightly on the rubber lining!!!
Great vid , well explained Build On
Glad you enjoyed it
Question so I need to have the balancer mark lined up with 10 degrees before tdc when I put the distributor in the block correct?
Great explanation!
Great video very informative
THX
Can you use timing tape on the harmonic dampner with a non dial back timing light to get the same result?
Thanks for the info, that motor sounds like it has a cam upgrade does that change anything on how u time ur engine?
Total timing is what you go by with a bigger cam
Thank you very well described.
Glad it helped
The engine, a 4-cylinder 22RE, on my 89 Toyota pickup got wet, and I had to change the airflow sensor. Although doing that got the truck going again, I might have thrown the timing out while trying to fix it because the idle is still very rough. Can I make the timing better from just adjusting the position of the distributer without necessarily using a timing gun? Another thing is that I think there's too much grease build up on the timing cover and balancer to see a degree setting, or does the gun somehow let you see what's needed even if there's grease buildup covering that area? Thanks.
I would not mess with timing without a light you could cause engine damage if it's advanced to far why do you think the timing changed? did you move the distributor?
Hi I wanted ask if I have 10 initial timing and I want 34 total . I rev engine 3000rpm do I set my timing light at 34 or at 24? Was confused on this part
I have small chevy 350 with mild cam. I tune engine to advance 35 at 3000 rpm tdc. On idle its running 12 degrees before tdc. When using vacuum meter to adjust my edelbrock carburetor the best number I could get it was 14. Truck sounds good but would I cause a problem with the engine? I have not check the springs inside carburetor. Would you please offer any suggestions I would appreciate.
Don't worry about where timing is at idle,
set total at 3K where you wany it and send it
Do I start with advance settings 1st or do I start with tdc at zero settings 1st. I'm new to car scene. Great video. Just subscribed
I would go right to total you don't worry about timing at idle set total at 3K RPM and where ever initial ends up that's where it stays it will usually be 8 to 10 degrees
That's not quite how I understand it to work. So correct me if I'm wrong.. I own a 1995 gmc Sierra k2500 4x4 with the 5.7/350. And on the decal it says the timing for that engine is "0" degrees..so I set my timing light for "0" degrees and and unplugged my brown wire for the computer started the truck up and rotated the distributor till my timing marks lined up at "0" degrees. I tightened the distributor shut the engine off and plugged the brown wire back in and started the truck back up . I don't remember exactly what the advanced timing was somewhere between 15 I think and 20 advanced but I could be wrong about that .. but the engine does run excellent. It's not hard to start at all. Turn the key and starts instantly. So would that be correct ???
You are comparing a computer-controlled ignition (TBI) to an HEI and a carb, it's apples and oranges,
in your case the timing is advanced by the computer so 0 is the baseline and the CPU takes over and does the rest without a computer (Carb and HEI) setting at 0 will not work
Great content can you make a vid on a reverse rotation engine
awesome video!!
Thanks!
i thought you disconnect vacuum to the distributer to set timing
I race dirt circle track here in South Carolina we have to run completely stock motors in your opinion what is the best timing degree for performance on a stock 350
That depends on your fuel you want to advance it as far as possible without pinging (detonation) the best power I have seen is 36 degrees for a SBC with flat piston and closed chamber head but that was with good gas our fuel these days isn't that good if you're running totally stock you have dished pistons and an open chamber head 7.9 to 1 compression IE: lower compression this will allow more timing with low grade fuel you kind of need to play with it to find the sweet spot 87 octane probably won't like much more than 33-34 degrees with your low compression you could probably get away with 36 and premium fuel but is also depends on you altitude and humidity levels they have a pretty dramatic effect on timing as well
Gday from OZ, mate watch n love your stuff, very well worded and so easy to understand.
Got a question on timing, rebui8lty an engine, 4cl toy, over double the horspower of stock, no dyno for a thousand miles, so, have been told big webers, go direct to 38 degrees total timing, which is what i have, but ?
no knocking that i can hear, so, add some more, take some out, leave it therte ?|
10.5-1 instead of 8.5-1, cnc worked head, twin dcoe webers, custom one of cam, med 6al-2 ignition system.
custum headers to 2 1/4 exhaust
How do you calculate correct timing when u leave stock behind ?
I advance 2 degrees at a time until I start to hear ping under part load the back it off until it goes away
@@Myvintageiron7512 sweet, thank you, is what we did in the 70s, lovely to see some things stay the same.
Nice video 📹
Thanks,, that makes sense.
Not every mechanic makes a good teacher.
What balancer did you use ?
Part number?
I am building a sbc and want the full timing scale on the balancer.
Thanks 😊
Summit sells balance stickers that wrap around the whole thing and ive seen better more visible ones then that just Google them
Professional products part # 80000
www.summitracing.com/parts/pfs-80000
@@Myvintageiron7512
Thanks
Que pasa sin le doy 10 grados en statico y 40 grados finales a 5mil rpm ?
The first thing you have to do is make sure the TDC of #1 piston and the 0 mark on the balancer match.
Best video
At what rpm should engine be at when timing it? Also should vac advance be disconnected when setting initial timing?
Usually they stop advancing somewhere between 3 and 4K. You basically rev it up til it stops moving set it to your desired overall and lock the distributor down, there’s only one setting. if you set your overall to 32 then your base timing is what it is if you set your base timing to say 6 degrees with vac. advance unhooked it’s gonna advance to whatever the distributor advances to from there which may be higher than a desired of say 32 so I think that’s why he’s sharing the video because you don’t wanna set your base at 12 and be 45 overall on a higher compression engine because it will destroy itself so important to check overall, ideally dyno session with carb and timing adjustments to find out your happy place but even a blind squirrel finds a nut from my experience you build a little domer 355 or 383 it’s gonna live at 32 degrees total timing
for total timing you will be all in around 3000 to 3500 depending on ignition system and engine and yes with engine at idle disconnect the vac advance and plug the hose sorry I forgot to mention that in the video
@@Myvintageiron7512 Hi, hey so why again do we need to remove the vacuum advance hose and test it out of normal functioning condition? Being that when it is actually running regularly it is with vacuum advance hose on ???
Well explained
8:55 don't you mean that you have built 30 degrees of delay into the timing light? Not 30 degrees of advance.
What model timing light? I have a dial from hobo freight and I hate it.
I bought it at AutoZone it's not top of the line, but it does work well I also have Snap-On Light, but I didn't want to use that for this video it might scare people off not wanting to spend the money I think I paid about $80.00 for the one in the video the Snap-On light is $350.00 the AutoZone brand works just as good I compared the timing of this one with the expensive timing gun from Snap-On they read exactly the same so you don't need the high priced light
Does the engine have to be at operating temperature??
it should be
The next thing you do is rev the engine up until the timing stops advancing and dial the timing light back to 0 to find the total advance the engine is at.
If you need more or less, you can play with the initial up to a point. If you need more, the football in the distributor needs to be changed.
Just to check? If you started with 6 degrees. And you 30 total. Wouldn’t you want it to say 6 degrees when you rev it up. Because the light is not getting the signal until 6 degrees
no with the light set at 0 you want to see 6
Not all engines are timed to the number 1 cylinder. International Harvester 304 engine uses the number 8 cylinder.
Couldn't you just keep the revs up, then set it at zero?
Nice vid, but didn't show how you came to get to 34 degrees without going over
The timing light is set for 34 when you Rev it up and the timing advances just make sure your mark is on zero it’s actually 34 degrees because that is what you have set your light for basically your retarding your light 34 degrees so when it advances to zero your actually at 34
💕💜💕💜💕💜💕💜💕
Just trying to learn... so, my distributor has 24 degrees of total advance built into it at 3,000 rpm on a machine. So... to get it to 34 degrees total timing at 3,000 rpm, I need to basically retard (after top dead center or 0 degrees) the timing 10 degrees after while idling. That way, as the advance comes in, it will come back to the zero mark on the pointer at 3,000 rpm. Is that correct for the initial timing?
10 degrees before not after
Ibeleave that tech mark is two degrees
Or you need a Progression Distributor.😉
Degree with that, LOL.👍🤙👍🤙
Or when tim8ng starts to come in and whu
Great video, thanks
What brand and model is your timing gun?
great video, very informative
Glad you think so!
@@Myvintageiron7512 What brand of timing light do you recommend?