Wood stove with secondary burn. Chimney draft measurement, part 2

Wood stove with secondary burn theory and application, part 2. Chimney draft measurement. More heat with less wood. Modifications to improve wood stove efficiency.
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[@jeffreystroman2811]

Been using a federal airtight two years now (can't say enough good things about it, it totally rocks) with damper open. After two years i finally read the instructions after downloading them and they were so well written i decided to take the info to heart. Now i work damper settings into my routine of stove operation and have been able to achieve overnight burns w coals in the morning. Given that fully closed is still 30% open i do not believe it is enough of a "pinch point" to affect negative pressure, it's purpose is to reduce the cross-section of flue and therefore lower the rate of gasses, in my case allowing a more complete burn at the cat. Since every install is different and analog i do not claim to tell anyone how to best operate theirs, i only wanted to share my experience.

[@davidferrell1876]

Presented like an engineer. You rock! Thanks for the excellent presentation.

[@uprightfossil6673]

Completed 1@2. On to 3. I have a pipe for outside air to feed my stove so it isn’t pulling cold air through drafty walls and windows.

[@Amotorcyclenut]

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[@divyabirsingh2905]

Wow

[@petergriffin1546]

Goog video. I suggest a magnehelic to get accurate readings. Mine was off by .03

[@Amotorcyclenut]

Thanks for the tip! What does a Magnehelic measure?
The Magnehelic gage is the industry standard to measure fan and blower pressures, filter resistance, air velocity, furnace draft, pressure drop across orifice plates, liquid levels with bubbler systems and pressures in fluid amplifier or fluidic systems.

[@buzzsaw301]

I really appreciate this

[@gregfawcett5152]

Seems like a good explanation but wouldn't outside air for both primary and secondary burns be more efficient as you are not taking the already warm air in the house and drawing it away for the combustion?

[@Amotorcyclenut]

That is true, but that is not always a very convenient option.

[@davidlisboa41]

Great video thanks

[@petergriffin1546]

Great video...You say not to use damper but what if your reading was all the way to the right on draft? In other words is there a time you would use a damper with a secondary burn stove?

[@Amotorcyclenut]

Not at all

[@petergriffin1546]

@@Amotorcyclenut thanks my draft is over .14 during a burn. and seems like its difficult to get slow flames without white smoke out chimney.

[@Amotorcyclenut]

how dry is your wood? Dry vs green firewood video
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[@petergriffin1546]

@@Amotorcyclenut I dont have any water but it measure from 12 to 18 percent but now im testing every piece sometimes the big logs are over 21 percent or 22 percent and a year old or kiln dry. In the middle. Kiln dry and craigslist mixing woods. but never any water out the end. chimney look good inside. Only way to control draft is damper. I guess ill know next year..

[@petergriffin1546]

So if your draft is .14 just leave it and not use damper?
The damper does decrease pipe temp a lot.

[@Amotorcyclenut]

Yes but only until the chimney warms up, then it throttles down and the secondary burn kicks in and the pipe temp drops. The damper causes a pressure drop and I don't want that. I want as much vacuum in the stove as possible for the secondary burn to work. so I don't use the damper. I can get away with that because my pipes are welded and it is a air tight stove.

[@geraldmoore6257]

Virtually no explanation of anything. I know less now than before. Reading my comment, you might wonder what my issue was. Well now you know how I feel after having listened to the video.

[@relatableguy2232]

You’re worthless

[@81eagle]

I have never been a big fan pipe dampers.

[@SalmanSalman-iy3os]

👍👍👍👍👍