Wood stove with secondary burn. How it works part 1
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- Опубликовано: 25 мар 2015
- Wood stove with secondary burn theory and application, part 1. How it works. More heat with less wood. Modifications to improve wood stove efficiency.
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Anyone else feel like Bill Murray just taught you about stove gasses?
Omg I started laughing as soon as I heard this guys voice. Dead ringer for Bill Murray😂
I just got this recommended today. Thank the algorithm. I will incorporate your ideas into my old Cameron wood furnace and see how it goes. Can’t get more inefficient than it already is. Thanks.
AWesome! I looked all over for an explanation of gasification and how to modify my stove. I finally found your video and it is the best explanation bar none. Thank you for making this video. Now I have to fix my stove. Ta Ta
Fantastic thermal/aerodynamic engineering. I am definitely going to incorporate some of what I learned for you into my upcoming wood fired hot tub boiler design .
Thanks so much !
I’m currently researching everything I can about secondary combustion, in an attempt to design a simple, inexpensive (but not cheap quality!) kerosene stove. Your video is surprisingly extremely helpful, so you’ve got a new subscriber!
Well done. Thanks for the quick clear explanation!
Very impressive, Thanks for sharing!
That is beautifully engineered.
I have a little Fisher in my small shop I may try that !! Thanks for the intel !
Although our stove burns well, I want it to burn BETTER, and I think you just gave me the soluion. Thank you. On to part 2!
Thanks for such a clear and concise explanation.
I'm going to use 3 x truck brake drums, I hadn't understood that I would have to provide secondary air supply for the upper chamber, makes sense!
Thanks again
Awesome video, thanks for posting!
Thank you very much you are really good with illustrating information!
I have a Thermo-Control model 500 hot air wood furnace.....still in business since 1976....they designed this stove approved by a MIT graduate....same principle...great stove
Now that is cool, er I mean hot! I've been looking at my Regency woodstove that was made with reburner tubes and wondered about adding a 4rth tube but with it pointing backwards so it impinges on the flow coming from the rearmost tube. I found your video and I think I might give the extra burn tube a try. I like your method of increasing the pressure (hence density) of the air charge by having the two reburn air streams collide. Excellent work! Thank-you
Thanks . this video helped me a lot
Loved it
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Cool video thanks
Thanks
this is awesome
The principle is very easy to watch on a portable gasifying stove for camping. You can see the small top hot air-vents each have a little flame.
Best explanation on youtube!
Glad it was helpful!
Cool
Good Job!
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks for taking the time to post this video series. I like what you have done here, and I have a few questions, if you have the time.
Why did you use copper tubes?
Are the tubes dry fit into the elbows or are they soldiered/glued/silver-soldiered together somehow?
Why did you run the vertical part of the copper tubes on the outside of the stove instead of on the inside of the stove? Wouldn't you have gotten the air inside the tubes much hottter if you ran the tubes inside the stove?
Once again, thanks for posting these videos and thanks for taking the time to reply to my questions.
SeekTheTruth I used copper because it has very good heat transfer properties, so it heats the air flowing threw it faster. The fittings are brazed together. Solder will not work, because it would melt at the some of the temperatures that it reaches. I didn't put the copper tubes inside for two reasons. Inside the stove they would get banged up by the fire wood and creosote would build up on them because they are cooled by the fresh air flowing through them. Watch parts 2 and 3 links are in the description.
Kinda a wood Gasafire design I like it
My englander nc30 does a beautiful secondary burn thank to the secondary burn tubes. Anyone looking for a very good affordable stove check it out.
Awesome video, great job.
I've got a question. I hear about putting a catalytic converter, they say it's ceramic, looks about 3" thick x 6" high x 12" long. They look like they have little hollow square holes going through it. Is that something that I would put on top or the sides to burn the unburnt gasses ? If so, do you need an air gap between it and the sides of the walls of the stove ? Thanks in advance for any help.
how can you do this without one of those stove temp thermostats and do you know where I can get one
I'm thinking of building a tiny version of this for a deer stand that's 4x6x6 and is insulated. I think something that would hold 4-6 charcoal bouquets. Do you think that's possible?
Just a thought and quick question, wouldn't taking the super heated air that just went through secondary combustion and piping it straight out the chimney result in a lot of lost heat? Or are you solving that some other way? Thanks!
Hello, I recently stumbled across your video and your concept is wonderful! I have been thinking of ways to make my old Fisher stove more efficient for many years but given the 30 inch fire box it had been a challenge to get to the back where the flue pipe is and install a secondary burn unit out of piping but the plate in front of the flue pipe became the solution so again thank you! I do have these 2 questions, 1) I estimated the distance between the nozzles to be about 3 inches apart just past the door, the question is what is the actual distance you established? Or is it a ratio based on the width of the fire box, as I can adjust this distance. 2) What is the diameter you established for the orifices at the end of these nozzles? Currently all that I did was reduce the 1 inch pipe down to 3/8 of an inch. I look forward to your reply and again, thank you for sharing this as I am truly amazed how clean the old stove is burning and am not wasting heat or money in the form of smoke going up the flue!
You'll have to play with what works for your stove. Try a couple of variations and see what works the best.
My cast iron wood doesn't have a secondary burning feed. But it has a back panel with few holes to feed the stove (it's either glass or cast iron back in my model so i chose cast iron for the back part). Also my wood stove has an additional slider on top of the door, manufacturers say its for the initial burning to allow more oxygen. Can i use that slider for secondary burns?
I couldn't tell you with actually seeing your stove.
I like the discussion. Do you have proof of the various pathways actually working as shown? I have 30 +year old non-secondary burn furnace; the top 10 feet of the chimney are coated with shiny hard creosote before yearly cleaning. I've ordered a cat type stove. I suggest that any stove giving shiny creosote is 'telling' the owner that smoke is not burning and may cause fires, hence replacement is needed or DIY work is needed; such changes may void your fire insurance policy
Having properly dried wood is a factor also. Shiny hard creosote means excess unburnt gasses. Lots of causes for that, here are some, to low of a burn temp, wet wood, chimney not air tight, low chimney temperature, not enough air for proper combustion. You have to trouble shoot your stove and figure it out. Every stove is a little different and has a personality.
Nice theory. BUT this configuration will let the hottest gases escape to the chimney. Efficiency rises when the exhaust is at the bottom. Like all properly designed stoves, the well designed rocket stove and the Scandinavian brick stoves
What did you do on the sides of the stove? It looks like you did something to increase surface area. On the left side you have a compartment or something. What is that?
What I did to the side of the stove was 3 things. I added fins on the out side walls to transfer more heat from the stove wall into the room. I removed the fire brick from the insides of the of the stove side walls to get more heat transfer to the wall of the stove from the fire and to get more room inside the stove. Last I made a small heat shield that protects the floor around the stove from radiant heat and it helps draw cold air up along side of the stove into the room with no power required. It is mid October here and the nights get into the low 30s F. I have been playing with how much ash I leave in the stove to increase burn time at low stove temps. (200-400 F ) so I don't cook my self out of the house. Best time so far is 26 hours with three 6" dia longs. still working with the process. Properly dried wood is very important in doing that. Here's a video on how I dry my wood. Dry vs green firewood ruclips.net/video/D42LdYMFiK8/видео.html
wow incredible
you can probably do an amazing Chris Farley impersonation... You sound just like him.
You should show the difference between a regular stove and that stove by puting same amounts of wood in it And by checking the difference in Temperature and speed of heating so we can make sure it's worth the time to make one.
How would this work with a top exhaust stove?
yes
At those temperatures how long can the copper last
Copper melts at 1984 degrees F. The copper has cold air going thru it. You can grab it with your hand even when the stove is burning hot and it won't burn you. The copper tube has been there for more than ten years and its fine.
Your baffle design isnt shown clearly. Can you elaborate in more detail?
Where can I get one of these stoves. Is that an older stove
The stove is a FISHER Baby bear. I've had it for more than 30 years. you might find a used one some where.
Does this pass code ??? Also, copper side pipes ??? Please explain. Thanks
is this your design? why not buy a stove with a re burn assembly?
+Saint Boudreau Yes this is my design. I have not seen a stove on the market that works this way. Most stoves I have seen have a fixed air control and do not allow the adjustment of the burn to compensate dynamically for changes in stove temperature, wood types being burned and other conditions like outside temperature, etc.
3.39 minutes in. you show a chart, but it comes out blurred, so unreadable.
nice, i used to, all but this last winter, get my stove nearly red hot, secret recipe to that, but cram an elm tree branch, solid cut that would barely fit in the stove's door and 20 inches long, and as soon as that gets going but before it's crested over it's building point, in an inclosed area with no windows no open doors, i'd close off the flue, it's not exactly sealed but close, and then because of the pressure pushing gasses out the front vents, i'd close that vent as well, and it's also not sealable, but because of the heat intensity and the heat having no where to go, but squeeze up the triple wall 8 ft chimney it was have a drawing effect on the stove. but you talk about harnessing the heat, then i'd go to sleep. did that for years. i think i'm gonna stop. ok i'll tell the secret. so get the stove running real good, a nice bed of healthy coals, big and nice, stove is already at maximum operating temps. make a little "pad" to accommodate a beer can, cut the top off, and add 1/2 to 3/4 full of any kind of fossil fuel. the best i found is kerosene down to diesel, then gasoline ( i never burnt used motor oil, but it'd work fine too,) for the volatile fuels, get the channel locks and hold the can tight, and light, THEN put in the "pad" on account of preventing it on creating heated fumes to make a boom type , once lit set it in the pad and the stove get red not bright red but close and it'll last 20 min or so. maybe 15. it boils right away. the can survives. it'll increase the temps of the uninsulated room 10 to 15 degrees. one time i tried to burn the insulation off of some vintage copper wires, whatever was in that was like stored fuel i couldn't put it out. it was scary.
If you think that's impressive, I'll show you. Hold my cousin!