Another awesome video. Thank you as always. I've used this technique many many times with no failures. A long razor scraper always works. Just leave a little extra tape so you can get between the tape and the fixture.
Wow, this is actually useful for work piece holding of a multicontoured part. I’ve done this but have never tried using painters tape as a barrier between the fixture and work piece.
This is a fabulous collection. Contact your local material converter for double stick painters tape and double stick powder coating tape. They can take the regular tape stock and apply the same adhesive to the opposite side, add a backing and then perhaps you don't need super glue at all?
I use the super glue clamping technique a lot when I'm prototyping. I just pulled out an old fixture where I had glued some carbon fiber to a 1/2" plate. It is still stuck and I mean REALLY stuck and it's been stuck for close to 4 years!!
I use machinable wax on a hot plate. Put a piece of aluminum on a hot plate. Melt the blue wax on it. Put your stock on it with a weight. Take it off and let it cool. Then ready to machine. After, just heat up and pop off. Works great for very thin stuff like .010 thick.
There's a special tape that I see some CNC machinists use that is essentially a double sided painters tape that skips the CA glue step. The two part numbers are IPG 591 and 592. The 591 is a bleached flatback core at 7 mil thick with 34 lb/inch tensile adhesion to steel and the 592 is a crepe paper core at 6 mil thick with a 23 lb/inch adhesion to steel. Despite the specs being slightly less for the 592 I still see woodworking and CNC communities prefer it. Would you be willing to do review of both and if you still feel like the superglue is needed with this specific product? Hillas has both tapes for reasonable prices.
Usually I do direct crazy glue aluminium and steel to directly a sacrificial plate, works so well even very small parts. The only downside is you need to heat it and takes forever to soak.
What about a special fixture plate, with a big electric resistor inside, that can be heated in order to weak the superglue and make detaching the final part more easy?
Hello and thanks for sharing, great video! Is the high temp powder coat tape double sided tape, or you also imply you apply super glue there as well, like you show in the blue tape? thx!!
What are the pros and cons compared to double-sided tape? I used 3M double-sided tape for my last job without any problems. 3M has also a wide range of double-sided tapes with different holding forces so I can't see any real advantage of the super glue version.
The big difference is that you can use a scraper / squeegee to really press the tape down on each side vs having to push from the outer surfaces of work. This improves the consistency of the tape bond relative to double sided in most cases and then the superglue of course is stronger.
I use this a lot as have a very limited z height for.my projects. I tend to direct superglue. But have found brass to be hopeless with it. Maybe it's the specific grade I have but it just won't glue very well. Aluminum and steel stick unbelievably well. But brass won't do it.
i am still not sure if this is like a joke? i mean glue and machining, I can't even imagine that it is parallel to the "table" (where you glue it onto), the tape probably varies alot in thickness no?
This seems like a great technique but I am slightly confused. Your stack up appears to be: fixture -> tape -> superglue -> tape -> part. If this is correct then it implies that the super glue is only holding the tape together and you are relying on the tape to part adhesion to hold your part. What I mean is your are not supergluing your part to the fixture, you are seemingly creating double side tape by super gluing two pieces of tape non sticky side to non sticky side. That would mean that you are relying entirely on the strength of the tape to part bond. And at that point why not double sided tape?
the big difference is the application of the tape on two separated surfaces and than joining them unconstrained with glue. Especially that angled fixture would never have as good adhesion with double sided tape.
Another awesome video. Thank you as always. I've used this technique many many times with no failures. A long razor scraper always works. Just leave a little extra tape so you can get between the tape and the fixture.
Wow, this is actually useful for work piece holding of a multicontoured part. I’ve done this but have never tried using painters tape as a barrier between the fixture and work piece.
Thank you so much! It is a very useful video!
Thanks John!
Big a fan of your! Hopefully one day I'll open my own shop!
Thank you - good advice.
again: VERY INTERESTING!
🙏🏻Thank you for what you are doing!
Very nice one buddy… 💪🏻
I have had excellent results with double face tape on the surface grinder with non magnetic materials.
use to use UV hardening glue when I machined optical lenses works great!
How do you unbond it at the end not to damage the lenses?
This is a fabulous collection. Contact your local material converter for double stick painters tape and double stick powder coating tape. They can take the regular tape stock and apply the same adhesive to the opposite side, add a backing and then perhaps you don't need super glue at all?
superglue with activator is the best friend of cnc machinist
0:35 So neat! It's human-like in that it's like, oh snap I forgot to get that last bit, and then zap off it goes!
I use the super glue clamping technique a lot when I'm prototyping.
I just pulled out an old fixture where I had glued some carbon fiber to a 1/2" plate.
It is still stuck and I mean REALLY stuck and it's been stuck for close to 4 years!!
Awesome for milling aluminum on my home gantry cnc. Just need to watch the temps otherwise the glue from the tape will fail.
I use machinable wax on a hot plate. Put a piece of aluminum on a hot plate. Melt the blue wax on it. Put your stock on it with a weight. Take it off and let it cool. Then ready to machine. After, just heat up and pop off. Works great for very thin stuff like .010 thick.
There's a special tape that I see some CNC machinists use that is essentially a double sided painters tape that skips the CA glue step. The two part numbers are IPG 591 and 592. The 591 is a bleached flatback core at 7 mil thick with 34 lb/inch tensile adhesion to steel and the 592 is a crepe paper core at 6 mil thick with a 23 lb/inch adhesion to steel. Despite the specs being slightly less for the 592 I still see woodworking and CNC communities prefer it. Would you be willing to do review of both and if you still feel like the superglue is needed with this specific product? Hillas has both tapes for reasonable prices.
Usually I do direct crazy glue aluminium and steel to directly a sacrificial plate, works so well even very small parts. The only downside is you need to heat it and takes forever to soak.
What about a special fixture plate, with a big electric resistor inside, that can be heated in order to weak the superglue and make detaching the final part more easy?
If removing thin parts use a peice of fishing braid or piano wire to saw through the tape
Mitee-Bite did have a film product for work holding. Mitee Grip ?
Hello and thanks for sharing, great video! Is the high temp powder coat tape double sided tape, or you also imply you apply super glue there as well, like you show in the blue tape? thx!!
Just like the blue tape. Tape each part and glue between them. The powder coat tape is not double sided.
Would love to see a 3020 500w cnc in action milling aluminum
Can it work under flood coolant ?
Are you using the same brand super glue as the activator?
Hi, What type of tape (blue color) do you use in this video? Tank you
Might be alright for jobs where you got no choice but some of those jobs you could of done it safer without the tape
The point was to show how far you can take it.
What are the pros and cons compared to double-sided tape?
I used 3M double-sided tape for my last job without any problems. 3M has also a wide range of double-sided tapes with different holding forces so I can't see any real advantage of the super glue version.
The big difference is that you can use a scraper / squeegee to really press the tape down on each side vs having to push from the outer surfaces of work. This improves the consistency of the tape bond relative to double sided in most cases and then the superglue of course is stronger.
I wonder if some double sided tape cant fill both rolls and simplify this
Is it the case that the holding strength is less without the tape and with only glue?
I use this a lot as have a very limited z height for.my projects.
I tend to direct superglue. But have found brass to be hopeless with it.
Maybe it's the specific grade I have but it just won't glue very well.
Aluminum and steel stick unbelievably well. But brass won't do it.
I miss clickspring.
What cnc is this one?
I just use double-sided tape.
Fusion 360 nice haha
i am still not sure if this is like a joke? i mean glue and machining, I can't even imagine that it is parallel to the "table" (where you glue it onto), the tape probably varies alot in thickness no?
The powder coat tape is pretty uniform. Like all setups quality makes quality out
The link for the pdf doesnt work
This seems like a great technique but I am slightly confused. Your stack up appears to be: fixture -> tape -> superglue -> tape -> part. If this is correct then it implies that the super glue is only holding the tape together and you are relying on the tape to part adhesion to hold your part. What I mean is your are not supergluing your part to the fixture, you are seemingly creating double side tape by super gluing two pieces of tape non sticky side to non sticky side. That would mean that you are relying entirely on the strength of the tape to part bond. And at that point why not double sided tape?
the big difference is the application of the tape on two separated surfaces and than joining them unconstrained with glue. Especially that angled fixture would never have as good adhesion with double sided tape.