When I saw the items on the table I was thinking, how tf is this going to be an hour long video. I forgot we talking about the don here😉providing us with every single detail and not skipping any steps 🐐 Interesting as always and I appreciate the fuel tank inside shot 😄
lmaoo broo IDEK how tf I made Episode 2 Less than an Hour and got all of that done. Literally crazy lol I guess im just at this point where everythings gonna be an hour long regardless. Hope everyone loves it! Its invaluable information that will be on here forever for you guys. Gotta take care of the doggss 🙂↔️🙂↔️
Have you considered just repinning the oem connector with thicker gauge wire and resoldering the new wires to the pins in the inside instead of drilling?
The thing is the OEM harness is long as hell from what i understand and goes idk where into the car. So to re-do the entire length with thicker gauge just wouldn’t be time conducive, plus theres the whole thing about the power and amp draw of the Pump itself. The further the wires are from the power source and/or longer the wire length, in this case to the battery, the less power you can send to the pump / the more stress and heat you introduce into the wire to maintain that same draw. Thus a relay directly to the battery is the most common way to run an aftermarket Fuel pump
this answer explains what I couldn't find in the video. in fact, when I got the walbro 525 for my build, the 228i, I had to get the stage 3 EKP module, which is the same to overcome the power issues.
@@pythondon my idea was to: depin the power pins (in the connector that you disconnect) that go from ecu to the fuel pump, pin them in an extra connector the other side of which would go to the relay as “signal” (no soldering and versatile easy to maintain connection). Run the thicker gauge power wires from the relay as you did but instead of drilling a hole, pin these wires in the original connector (the pins in the fuel pump housing seem thick enough). And on the inside to increase the gauge of wires going to the new pump cut the old black/red wires and solder thicker wire from the pump kit to the original pins. This way there are no direct wires going through the housing and no hassle replacing in the future/servicing (and installing *wink*) You are right that running new fp wires from the relay in the engine bay or from the ecu is not the best idea. Moreover the original relay or ecu (depending from where the power goes to it originally) might not hold up to the higher current either
i have been watching the previous episodes, but i dont remmember if u changed the stock internals. Are you confident that the engine will be able to handle 450hp+?
Let's see haha 😅 My target is really 400 to the wheels so somewhere around 450 at the crank. Running on 93 Octane, from what i've read and researched, is Possible. 👍
If he did a decompression plate and head studs it'll be fine. But yeah I don't remember him doing that. Without those the head lifts at around 420-450hp
I've been following the last videos, and I'm currently building a M54B25 turbo (E39). Already bought forged pistons and rods, but one thing that you might want to look for is the head studs upgraded (M10 to M12). I did on mine because depending on the boost you going for the oem studs will stretch. Yours might handle it stock... I'm going for 600+hp But keep going on, I'm loving the build series and a lot of useful tips that I'm using on my build too 💪🏻🫶🏻
Thank you for the tips and Luvv Bro!! Cheers to you and your build🍻 Yeah Im a little worried about the power im going for but I figured if something fails that will be my reason to open it up and Learn some more and bring some viewers along for the ride. At that point I was considering around the same power you are going for so we'll see haha 😉😏
@pythondon Hell yeah! 💪🏻 One thing, do you have the link for the parts you buy like the bulk head fitting on the fuel assembly? I've tried looking but cannot find it
ΤΟ ΕΧΕΙΣ ΞΕΧΕΙΛΩΣΕΙ ΤΟ ΟΛΟ ΘΕΜΑ ΗΔΗ ΕΠΡΕΠΕ ΝΑ ΕΧΕΙΣ ΚΑΝΕΙ ΔΥΝΑΜΟΜΕΤΡΗΣΗ ΕΝΑ ΕΠΕΙΣΟΔΙΟ ΠΡΙΝ ΟΥΤΕ ΜΕ ΤΟ ΛΕΠΤΟ ΝΑ ΠΛΗΡΩΝΟΣΟΥΝ ΠΟΛΥΣ ΚΟΣΜΟΣ ΛΕΕΙ ΟΤΙ ΕΧΕΙΣ ΚΟΥΡΑΣΕΙ
2 mins in “this episode should not be very long” lol
🤣🤣 i know lol Most detailed Fuel pump video on the net 🐕🐕
When I saw the items on the table I was thinking, how tf is this going to be an hour long video.
I forgot we talking about the don here😉providing us with every single detail and not skipping any steps 🐐
Interesting as always and I appreciate the fuel tank inside shot 😄
lmaoo broo IDEK how tf I made Episode 2 Less than an Hour and got all of that done. Literally crazy lol I guess im just at this point where everythings gonna be an hour long regardless. Hope everyone loves it! Its invaluable information that will be on here forever for you guys. Gotta take care of the doggss 🙂↔️🙂↔️
Cant wait to see it complete, keep up the good work g!
Thank you bro thank you! 🙏🏼
When do you think pt.7 will drop im so invested in this series.👍
Hahaha Trynna get it out by Next Friday brother. Stay tuned!
Have you considered just repinning the oem connector with thicker gauge wire and resoldering the new wires to the pins in the inside instead of drilling?
The thing is the OEM harness is long as hell from what i understand and goes idk where into the car. So to re-do the entire length with thicker gauge just wouldn’t be time conducive, plus theres the whole thing about the power and amp draw of the Pump itself. The further the wires are from the power source and/or longer the wire length, in this case to the battery, the less power you can send to the pump / the more stress and heat you introduce into the wire to maintain that same draw. Thus a relay directly to the battery is the most common way to run an aftermarket Fuel pump
this answer explains what I couldn't find in the video. in fact, when I got the walbro 525 for my build, the 228i, I had to get the stage 3 EKP module, which is the same to overcome the power issues.
@@pythondon my idea was to: depin the power pins (in the connector that you disconnect) that go from ecu to the fuel pump, pin them in an extra connector the other side of which would go to the relay as “signal” (no soldering and versatile easy to maintain connection). Run the thicker gauge power wires from the relay as you did but instead of drilling a hole, pin these wires in the original connector (the pins in the fuel pump housing seem thick enough). And on the inside to increase the gauge of wires going to the new pump cut the old black/red wires and solder thicker wire from the pump kit to the original pins. This way there are no direct wires going through the housing and no hassle replacing in the future/servicing (and installing *wink*)
You are right that running new fp wires from the relay in the engine bay or from the ecu is not the best idea. Moreover the original relay or ecu (depending from where the power goes to it originally) might not hold up to the higher current either
Here we gooooo beast mode
Ayyyyyyyy 🔥🔥🔥🔥🦅🦅
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
i have been watching the previous episodes, but i dont remmember if u changed the stock internals. Are you confident that the engine will be able to handle 450hp+?
When in doubt send it
Let's see haha 😅 My target is really 400 to the wheels so somewhere around 450 at the crank. Running on 93 Octane, from what i've read and researched, is Possible. 👍
Exactly brother Let's see what we can doo 🐕🐕🐕
If he did a decompression plate and head studs it'll be fine. But yeah I don't remember him doing that. Without those the head lifts at around 420-450hp
@@pythondonhaha alright, I wish u luck my brother, and excited for the future of this project and the results. Amazing content💪🏼👍🏼
Are those butt connectors fuel rated ? If not they will degrade over time because of the fuel and clog things up
Brooooooo!!!! 😭😭😭 how did i not even think of that… i will do some research tonight. Good catch man damn 🔥
Ok i think we’re actually in the clear 👍 Most are nylon construction so safe with gasoline!
@@pythondon Hope so! Nothing worse than doing something twice 😅😅
Brooo the freaking worst lol You seen me struggling here lmao
مذهل راءع
I've been following the last videos, and I'm currently building a M54B25 turbo (E39). Already bought forged pistons and rods, but one thing that you might want to look for is the head studs upgraded (M10 to M12). I did on mine because depending on the boost you going for the oem studs will stretch. Yours might handle it stock... I'm going for 600+hp
But keep going on, I'm loving the build series and a lot of useful tips that I'm using on my build too 💪🏻🫶🏻
Thank you for the tips and Luvv Bro!! Cheers to you and your build🍻 Yeah Im a little worried about the power im going for but I figured if something fails that will be my reason to open it up and Learn some more and bring some viewers along for the ride. At that point I was considering around the same power you are going for so we'll see haha 😉😏
@pythondon Hell yeah! 💪🏻
One thing, do you have the link for the parts you buy like the bulk head fitting on the fuel assembly? I've tried looking but cannot find it
@birdthunder97 Yes bro! Entire link parts list im hoping to have Live by Next Friday. Everything will be on it! 👍👍
Hi. What relay did you install? What is the relay code?
Check the video description! I added it there 👍👍
Is there a build list somewhere for this?
Yessir, beneath every video ive listed the items associated with each 👍
@@pythondon 🫡
Bro ….. finally . lol
hahaha I know bro I knoww 🙏🏼🙏🏼
ΤΟ ΕΧΕΙΣ ΞΕΧΕΙΛΩΣΕΙ ΤΟ ΟΛΟ ΘΕΜΑ ΗΔΗ ΕΠΡΕΠΕ ΝΑ ΕΧΕΙΣ ΚΑΝΕΙ ΔΥΝΑΜΟΜΕΤΡΗΣΗ ΕΝΑ ΕΠΕΙΣΟΔΙΟ ΠΡΙΝ ΟΥΤΕ ΜΕ ΤΟ ΛΕΠΤΟ ΝΑ ΠΛΗΡΩΝΟΣΟΥΝ ΠΟΛΥΣ ΚΟΣΜΟΣ ΛΕΕΙ ΟΤΙ ΕΧΕΙΣ ΚΟΥΡΑΣΕΙ