One of the BEST videos on youtube. Informative and to the point ... Educational and instructional ... No Stories , No kids, no dogs just some great information that is extremely well put together .
I have a 1995 40 HP Mercury on a Bass Tracker I purchased new. I am not going to need to rebuild my carbs for the first time due to a leak. I have replaced my impeller twice. I have only replaced my plugs and wires once. I only run non-ethanal gas 92 octane and Mercury fuel additives. I can crank this engine after setting up months at a time with the first start. My engine looks as new today as it did when it was actually new. It also helps that I have stored my boats and other equipment INSIDE. Outdoors is murder on equipment. My old bass tracker boat is flawless after 28 years of use. Great video.
Make sure you get the Quicksilver kits as the Sierra kits top port gaskets are too large and don't fit well. You'll need to sand the angled edge of the Sierra Top Port Gasket. The OEM Quicksilver gaskets fit perfect out of the package.
Agree wholeheartedly, I always try to stay with OEM when possible. In this video you can see the viton tipped needles were deformed by fuel additives, the stock OEM needles were solid stainless steel, which are a much better choice with today's fuels and the additives from the fuel manufacturers, and also what we may add on the side. Great comment thank you.
I have an 80s model Mercury 500 horse for carburetors the bottom two don't have a fuel-air mixture screws sent normal? Thank you in advance for your quick response great video
Thank you for the video my brother I have one question I'm at 100 horsepower Mercury the bottom two carburetors don't have an adjustment airs mixture screw is that normal
Excellent tutorial. In your experience, if you find carbs like this soaked in fuel and oil which gaskets or components are faulty? I know that rebuilding the entire carb makes the most sense I just have a suspicion that mine are leaking at those brass fuel inlet fittings that piggy back the fuel/oil across all three carbs. Is that a common leak point or plug point in those brass inlets at each carb?
I have a 100hp mercury from 1992. The 3rd carb from the bottom is leaking a lot of fuel from the hole you are spraying at 4.06. Is that hole a overflow? If it is, then propably the floats needle is stuck because of gunk? I dont think the level is set incorrectly because that is the only carb that leaks.
Chances are yes that is an overflow, and the float would be stuck, the alcohol in today's fuels cause a lot of issues, spray some Gumout in that hole, leave it for a few days, then start it, if it still leaks while running tap the carb bowl with the handle of a screwdriver, a few times. Sometimes this works, then run premium fuels without ethanol, and run some Gumout in the tank every so often.
WHAT TYPE OF RULER IS THAT METRIC / CENTIMETERS OR SOMETHING ELSE. DO YOU PUT THE END ON THE TIP OF THE CARBURETOR I CAN NOT SEE THAT WELL BUT NICE VIDEO THANKS FOR THE HELP .
very good job making the video. I have the same carburetors except mine are size 89. Do you think the gaskets you used will fit? I have a four cylinder but when I took the fuel stops out number 3 and 4 carburetor, I noticed the fuel stops looked different then the top two. Do you think they are just worn and all the fuel stops should be the same if the carburetors are all the same?
The charts at the end were great but it cut off what I needed. I have a 2000 Mercury 90elpto. Where can I hand that chart. In the process of rebuilding the carburetors now. Thanks
Here is what I have, not sure if it will help, I'm now on Rumble, got hacked, and RUclips locked me out in 2020. Just a fluke that my phone left me on today! www.justanswer.com/uploads/ROCKETBOAT/2008-11-28_192732_3b.pdf
great video, wish I'd watched it before I rebuilt by 2000 90hp. A word of caution be very careful to not get the gaskets and diaphrams out of sequence. I did that and the pump kinda worked and it caused me to go on a wild goose chase looking for other problems. The other problem I had is that the factory service manual depicted many different versions and the assembly sequence was slightly different. I should have taken photos or made drawings as I disassembled. These are great OBs especially for the diyer.
Nice video, I don't understand the idle part what does it mean 1-1/4 like how much do you turn it to be 1-1/4? Is it one whole turn and a quarter turn?
A lot of people i see that have the 90 hp the bottom carb are leaking gas over time through the throut need to adjust the float hite lower n make sure the needle tip is still good. The float does not need to be straight it can be Bent down some. Its always the bottom carb✌️
Could you help me plz.im having trouble with a used carb.when I received it the bolt that holds the bowl on is striped badly im having trouble finding any carb.so if there is a way to fix I would be grateful.
Best would be to identify what the screw size, and thread is, then have the hole welded shut, re-drilled to the size for the correct tap, and re-tapped. Second option would be to install a heli-coil if they make one in the thread size. I can do the first option if you want. I charge $75/hr. PM me if your interested. 9207373767
There are other options also, Locktite makes a Form-A-Thread, they have good products, I have used it before and it worked good for me. I'm just not sure if it would be a permanent fix, especially for something your goingvout on tge water with. A least one of those screws has empty space above, a longer screw with a nut on top would get you by, kind of a jury rig, but would work in certain circumstances. Being a welder I know what fix I would do. Good luck!
Thanks for the video and good job. I don't see the PDF, however, and am currently at a loss as to which of the 3 different carb kits I should purchase for my motor (115 4 cyl).
Hi great video gave me confidence to takle my carbs,No1 carb is marked 84-1(i take it its a little newer) the emulsion tube you clean out the jet with a drill my jet seems pussed to one side in the holding (I am sure i have not knocked it IS THIS OK thanks ,have not yet stripped down other 2 carbs waiting for gasket kit .Marriner 75hp engine 2004 made in Belguim
i appreciate the video, it is very easy to follow. I rebuilt my 2000 75hp mercury size 84 WME carbs. But I cannot find the float adjustment specs and I dont like guessing. Can you tell me where to get that information?
I did the carbs on a 4 cylinder 115 hP Merc (1999).... The top two carbs had adjustable idle fuel / air screws .... the bottom two carbs had only a brass plug .. Does that make any sense to you ? I also noticed that the brass tube that sits in the center of the carb bowl was different for each carb. The top had holes in the tube ... the second had less holes and carb 3 and 4 had no holes .. ???? Hope you have the time to explain ... thank you
Love the video! even though i am mechanically minded on motor vehicles i don't think i have what it takes to tinker with 1 carburetor let alone 3, i have a wonderful marine mechanic who does all my work as he recently serviced and rebuilt all 3 carburetors but noticed when he was adjusting them, the top carby had little or no change in the idle mixture screw! by all means i didn't want to question he's work because regardless of that the motor works and runs 100%, it just played on my mind why this happened because i know with cars it actually meant something if an idle mixture didn't have an affect, any suggestions would be appreciated!
Well most cars had one carburetor and one float, so with three carburetors you will have three float bowls so each may be set just a little different from each other, a lower float height would require more air flow through the venturi to get the same fuel flow as a carburetor with a higher float setting. If the throttle butterflies are not synchronized perfectly that could do it, it could cause less air flow across the butterfly (venturi) if its open a little more which would make the carburetor rely more on the mid range and high speed jet and less on the low speed jet so that carburetor would be less apt to react to adjustments of the low speed needle. The top cylinder usually runs a little warmer than the other two because the top cylinder gets a little less cooling than the other two. Sometimes there are even different sized jets (main jets mostly) to make up for the uneven cooling at the upper cylinder. I wish I could give you one reason but that's just not possible. Good luck, thanks for watching and the great comment that makes me have to think, its good for the brain!
Thanks great job. When I pulled my carbs off my 90hp I noticed the top number 1 carburetor has a hole between the idle screw cavity and the air intake that carbs 2 & 3 don't have. Did you know if that's correct or why it's different. Thanks
I get that question a lot, I believe some carbs had it and some didn't, not sure what year or models. Thanks for watching Kevin! Click on the link below, the lower right picture on page 1 shows it and says it is a "bowl vent jet". www.discount-marine.com/club/files/carbur_50_cv_2t_merc.pdf
You could hook up a vacuum gauge to each carb, they make sets of gauges to do this, I have done it on motorcycles but I'm not sure if there are even ports upstream of the butterfly to hook them up. I just eyeball them, the human eye is quite an instrument in itself! You want to set one and then set all the rest to that first one. By feel with your finger works pretty well also, a finger in two different carbs and fell for movement as someone moves the throttle gently. Thanks for the comment.
Love the video. I am going to rebuild my carbs and fallow this video step by step. Just curious if my carbs will be similar to this one? I have an 83 mercury mariner 2 stroke 50hp el. Thanks
Great video. I'm getting ready to do the same rebuild. Engine will not run, barely runs while flooding and have fuel going into crankcase. Assuming probably a stuck float?
Thanks. Which is a better way to clean carbs? 1) use spray can of carb cleaner and rags to wipe clean or 2) soak the carb parts in carb cleaner container and blow out with compressor? Thanks
Either works good I would always back up with compressed air. Most times carb cleaner, compressed air, and being very careful with a small jet drill smaller than the jet aperture making sure not to scratch the surface of the jet or it will change the flow characteristics.
I have a 1992 115 hp Mercury outboard can you tell me what the settings are for this carb there is four of them i need to know the float and needle valve setting if you can help it would be great . Thanks
You will need your serial number off your outboard so you can go in to the link below, find your year and engine, then find out the size/numbers of your carburetor. www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/parts-and-accessories/parts-catalog Then you can go to the next link, find your carburetor and what your settings should be. Good Luck! www.discount-marine.com/club/files/carbur_50_cv_2t_merc.pdf
Hi there, great video. guess I get A bit confused with ordering right kits, maybe you can help. mercury 2-stroke 4-cylinder S/N# 6486685, ‘believe’ its 84-85ish year. Carbs say WMA-1 top and WMA-3 for bottom. Think it’s 1395-9023 kit? Also, Do the kits have to include more than just the gaskets and such? I so appreciate any help, thanks Manny
@@mannyvilla1400 I see why you got a little lost, I concur with you 1395-9023 should be your kit. Two carbs, float bowl, integrated fuel pump. If you want a copy of what I have for a service manual I can email you the pages that cover that model carb. Send me an email to rickyhembel@hotmail.com
Click the the link below on the first page lower right hand corner it names part d as the idle mixture screw, and part c as the bowl vent jet. So if there is fuel coming out of the bowl vent jet that would mean there is an issue with the float and needle system not stopping gas flow into the float bowl. Examples could be, dirt in the needle and seat, bad needle or seat, float has hole in it, float adjusted incorrectly. Most likely dirt or debris. www.discount-marine.com/club/files/carbur_50_cv_2t_merc.pdf
Great video man, thank you! What were you doing with the socket at 6:25 - 6:29?? Can you give me some details as to the socket size and whatnot did exactly? My mechanic is speechless as to why mub3rd carb is leaking. I think it's coming from the nozzle weld gasket. I've replaced 2 times now and have even put an extra one on, it still leaks.
Thanks for this video. I rebuilt the carb and still had issues so I took off the reed block to check the valves. Do you happen to know the torque specs for the valve block bolts?
Thanks for video. I've just done this on my 1998 90hp Merc. Have identical carbs. I see it says 1+1/4 turn for idle jet. But you seem to not do a full turn only 180 degrees plus another 90 degrees. Surely one full turn is turning the screw two times and then a quarter is another 90 degrees? To me you only turned it out 3/4 of a turn in total.
Yeah the book calls for 1-1/4 turns, I usually like to start at 3/4 turn and adjust from there. Just the way I've always done it. Thanks for watching my videos Ryan.
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay ok thanks for reply. Just checking I wasn't misunderstanding the book. Mine wouldn't idle at 1+1/4 but idles nice at 1+1/2.
So I just rebuilt my carbs, my motor has 3 of them and they are identical to these carbs, now when I prime the fuel line I hear air coming out of the top carb and it doesn't prime. I can't figure out why. Any ideas?
You need to track down where exactly the air is coming from? I would also trace out your priming line back to the tank to see if there is a leak there where it could be sucking air instead of fuel.
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay thanks for the reply, it was indeed sucking air from the fuel line. I got it all fixed and running good. I just feel dumb for not figuring that out sooner. Haha.
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay thanks. I ran the boat in my yard and it ran fine, took it to the lake today and wouldn't run. I think I need to adjust the float and needle, do you remember what yours needed to be measured too? Because the carb in this video is identical to mine so I'm sure mine should be set to the same.
Great video! My question is, what is the hole next to the idle adjustment screw? I've noticed some WME carbs have a jet in the place and some are left open like yours. Thanks!
Click on the link below, the lower right picture on page 1 shows it and says it is a "bowl vent jet". Glad you enjoyed the video, sorry it took so long for me to get back to you, this took a little looking. www.discount-marine.com/club/files/carbur_50_cv_2t_merc.pdf
Can i remove the emulsion tube easily to clean it? I see you didn't remove it. when i cleaned my 50 i didn't remove it but polished the outside with a soft dremel and sprayed carb clnr and compressed air. But when i polished it, there was definitely fuel varnish and i really wanted to thoroughly clean it but wasn't comfortable with trying to remove it to clean all of it. Thanks for the vid bud!!!
Sorry I usually reply within 24 hours some how your comment slid passed me. I would not try to remove it as they are pressed in and you may crush the tube, then you would have to replace it. I am not sure if they sell that separately. I would clean with carb cleaner and or run a small drill bit through by hand to remove any debris without removing any brass material.
There is no screw or bolt or needle in the hole to left the idle micture needle ?I have a carb taken of a 92 30 hp that looks like yours and am surprised there is nothing in that treaded hole to the left there because there was fuel in that cavity when i removed the two countersunk bolts and cover .Mine looks like yours and yours never had one either .Can you tell me why or just clean it and keep going and leave it empty
I will need more information, 2 cylinder or 3, I assume it is a WME carb if it looks just like mine in the video? See if you can see numbers on the side, WME and then a number like 63, or 66. The hole your talking about is a fuel bowl vent some had jets in and some didn't.
@terrymunn1224 I also need your Mercury outboard serial number, it should be located on the transom bracket. Also it's 2 cylinder, 2 carburetors right?
good video, I am working on a Oct of 99 125HP and the carburetors differ, Carb's 1&2 have idle jet screws, Carb's 3&4 have just screw in plugs where the idle mixture screws belong. I look inside the carburetor and there is not a hole or seat inside the carburetor for a jet needles to seat against. At an idle it does not run on 3&4 but will pick them up with some starting fluid sprayed into the carburetors. It looks like the carburetors have been off this motor before. Has anyone else seen this? The carbs are correct for the year and motor, they have a printed number on the side of the body listing, 81-1 thru 81-4. This make no sense to me.
In tge eary 90's Mercury started looking for efficiency/fuel mileage, they set up many engines with four carbs for performace, but the lower two do not come in until 1750 rpm's, there is usually an accellerator pump set up for those two carbs to make up for the lag it would have from a hard standing start acceleration.
Great vid.. I have a 1977 Mercury 850 EL 85 hp.. I know I have a fuel leak and I'm pretty sure the float on the bottom carb is stuck... my question is how can I find out what carbs I have to order new gaskets and floats... also this is a shot in the dark but ... my motor runs great on muffs. Goes in gear and all,, but when I've takin it to the lake it runs great until I put it in gear .. as soon as it clicks in gear it just shuts off.. no sputter or any thing . Just shuts off like I turned it off.. please any one help
Click on the Mercury marine link in the description of this video, and launch the parts finder, outboards, carbs, 850, I see two a four cylinder, and a six cylinder. Then verify your WME or whatever should be on the side of your carb. As far as it shutting off there is a lot of information in the form of PDF documents on the web Search "mercury marine ignition specifications PDF", and see what you come up with. Off the top of my head I am going to say it is possible that its idling too high and will automatically shut off if engaged to stop for fracturing something in the drive.
Use the manual for idle screw reference, don't use what it was set at... no telling who's adjusted in its lifetime. Besides, you need to fine tune it anyways, likely needs it once cleaned
Hi Ricky, I really enjoyed the carb and fuel pump videos. They were very descriptive and complete. I have a 2003 125 HP 2+2 that stopped running at high speed after sitting for a month. I cleaned carbs and replaced accel pump diaphragm. I wondered if you have thoughts or video on accel pump issues. Happy Memorial Day and God Bless!
Serial # is 0T462062 Model 1125412ZD - 2003 125 HP 2 cyl 2+2 jet drive. I have owned it 5 months after it sat 2 yrs. It ran very well after they changed fuel and filter. Then it sat another month, and then only runs up to 3000 rpm. I cleaned the carbs and changed seals as you described. And changed some of the tubing. It still only runs to 3000 rpm and the second set of carbs does not kick in. The accelerator pump is a diaphram pump that sprays a small amount of fuel to initiate carbs 3 and 4. I think the accel pump may be clogged. I did change out the plunger and diaphragm since the original one was worn. Please advise how I might be able to trouble shoot why carb 3 and 4 do not kick in. Thanks!
Great video! Thank you for taking your time to show us DIYer's. It was a very clear and easy video to follow. Near the end of your video, you show a page that shows the float clearance to be 9/16" and you say that is the same float setting for all WME carburetors. I am rebuilding my carbs on my 115hp 2 stroke Mercury (serial 0G272780) that has four WME 33 carbs. But my SELOC Repair Manual states the float clearance for my carbs should be 7/16" or 11mm. What manual is your page from? I want to make sure I get the correct float clearance.
Nevermind. Now I see why it's listed as 9/16" and my SELOC Manual is 7/16". Your manual measures it from the top of the float where SELOC measures it from the lowest part of the float.
9/16 (no gasket from carb to float bottom upside down) at the point where the float begins to slope down to the front face. Practically speaking the float should be set level as held upside down. The video image is capturing the only step not the formal procedure, it is not intended to show the correct location for a the 9/16 measurement.
Dan Caudle, athe float is stuck in the down (open position) which is not closing off the needle valve. You can first try to tap on the sides of the float bowl with the handle of a screwdriver, not hard enough to break anything, but maybe dislodge whatever is holding the float open. Try doing this without it running, then start it, and try again the engine vibration may help. if this does not work you will have to dissassemble the float bowl and clean it which requires removing the carburetor. At that point you may want to do all three. If it works run some good quality premium fuel through it like Shell which has cleaning agents in their fuel.
@@richward8776 I am goofing off in western Wisconsin today, but will be home tonight, verify, and let you know. 100 in lbs. Remember they are in aluminum.
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay It should be inch pounds but I think 25 is correct. Western Wisconsin? I fish in north central, Chippewa Flowage near Hayward. 🙂
quick question I have a center carburetor mariner 90 hp there is a black bushing on the throttle shaft, would you know were I could get one or the part number or the proper name
Sorry that I did not reply, sometimes RUclips does not notify me that I have messages and that was the case here. I assume by now you found your answer if not then reply to this and I will look for the answer. What year 90HP Merc?
Great video! any chance you have the rest of the service information for this set up? i was reading through and it referenced section 4b for reed valve inspection and its not linked. thank you in advanced for any information you have.
Sorry I spent and hour searching the internet which is where I found the other information, and I could not find section 4b, I don't know if it was ever uploaded to the web. I did find other great reading searching Google under reed cage, or Mercury reed inspection, always search using "PDF" as your final search criteria. It will amaze you what is out there! Thanks for watching my videos.
Hello, thank you for the video. But I have a 40HP 2-T engine and it doesn't appears in your pdf file. Where did you find that mercury manual? I would like to have the complete manual for my 40HP. (I'm not talking about the "owner's manual"). Thank you.
Search “Mercury Marine”, then click on the heading “Parts & Accessories”, then click on “Mercury Parts Catalog”, then “Launch Parts Catalog”, in the left hand column click “Outboard”, then click “2 stroke carb” and pick your 40 HP engine there are 17 to choose from, then you need to find your serial #, and click on it go to “carburetor” click on that. This will open up an exploded view of your carb, at this point it will give you the approximate carb size (which you will need to verify on your carb) in one case it was a WME66 which is made by Walbro. From it is a search entering something like “Mercury 40 HP Walbro WME 66 PDF”. Some of the online parts outlets have great information. You can also search “Mercury outboard fuel systems PDF”. Below is the address to one site I found. It’s kind of poke & hope, good luck! www.marineengine.com/parts/mercury-outboard-parts/40-2-cyl/1b000001-up-usa/carburetor
A lot had pressed in seats, I can only assume that is what is in yours. Seeing as though it would be junk anyway, you could try something I discussed with someone else this week on the same issue. Figure out what the seat angle is supposed to be, then take a piece of round steel stock, have one end machined to that angle, then put different grits of valve lapping compound on it starting with couse and woring towards fine, mount the round stock in a drill motor and polish a new seat from the old one.
I have the same Mercury outboard. I have taken the 3 carb off. My problem is installing them back on. It has 4 fixed studs that you place the first two carbs back on. The problem is the bottom carb. The two bottom bolts are so difficult to insert back on due to the bolts being long and are difficult to place back in to hang the bottom carb due to the reduced size of the mid section. Did you experience this problem? Thank You.
This is an awesome place to go for starters if you know your way around a computer: I am doing the work right now thoughwww.mercurymarine.com/en/us/parts-and-accessories/parts-catalog
Yours is the best video I found on this. Couldn't find anything at all on how to remove the carburetors from the engine. I have the Mercury service manual and it says "Remove carburetor as outlined in Carburetor Removal in this section" (the page I am referring to is at 8:02 in the video). But there is NO Carburetor Removal in the Carburetor section or anywhere in the manual. Very frustrating. Does anyone know whether the oil tank has to be removed in order to remove the carburetors? Are there any other steps in removing the carburetors which may be particularly problematic? I read a comment below about the bottom carburetor being troublesome. Any info will be greatly appreciated.
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay Can you answer my questions about removal of the carburetors from the engine and whether the oil tank has to be removed before removing the carburetors?
Sorry about that Henry, I didn't see the rest of your comment. It's been several years since I did this project. I do remember loosening the oil injection tank, but I did not need removed it, I think I left one bolt in or put one back in after removing the carbs. Putting the carbs and linkage back on, make sure to take pictures before dissembling anything. I put a link below to two different videos that may be of some help one is of a 60HP, and one of a 90 HP carb removal. Good Luck, enjoy your summer! ruclips.net/video/bq5sibvVN7E/видео.html ruclips.net/video/YXt8STkaP5A/видео.html
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay Thanks for the reply. I worked on it today. It's a Mercury 2-stroke 3 cylinder Saltwater 90. Sticker on the engine inside the cowl says it was built April 2004. Th e carbs on it look very similar to the ones in your video. After studying it carefully, it seemed that the only way to get the bottom carb out was to split the bottom cowl. The two bottom bolts were just too long to clear. Five bolts. Not too bad. Once you separate the cowl everything comes out easily. The oil tank does not have to be removed, but it does have to be held in place with a piece of wire so that it does not sag forward.
Hi Ricky - great video, mate - thanks for taking the time to publish it. I tackled the service and am pretty happy with the outcome, although #2 carb is leaking fuel from the screw-hole next to the idle mixture screw, which has me very confused. I'm confident that all gaskets are in place & screws fastened. Do you have any tips/ideas that I can follow-up on, please? Thanks in advance, Jase
Jason that is the vent hole for the float bowl ... if fuel is coming out of there it is most likely the needle valve is not closing from the float or the float adjustment is not correct.
That depends what carburetor you have, I will need the year, how many cylinders is it has, and the serial number in order to give you that information.
There are many different 25 HP Mercury outboards, 2 stroke, 4 stroke, etc and you will need your model/ serial numbers to get to the correct information. What I see under 2 stroke is possibly a WMC 64 carburetor. Once you have your numbers go to the link below click on the "Launch" button and find your model and serial number which will give good information and that would be where to get your parts from so you get real Mercury OEM parts. Then do a Google search for "WMC carburetor PDF" which will bring up PDF documents on that specific carburetor. Thanks for watching! www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/parts-and-accessories/parts-catalog
Great video! Good camera angle and good instructions with links and explanations. Is this the newer 2 stroke carb used on the "Tower" engines after 1985 and newer? Thanks.
Has anyone heard of WM carburetors? I have an old mercury marine engine that's from 1991-3 and its carburettors have WM-11-1 and WM-11-3 on them, does anyone know the difference of if they're the same as WME?
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay I'm not certain on the year as I bought it third hand, the serial number is 8072269 and it was made in South Australia (Victoria) according to its plate. Thanks heaps.
@@caelumellis2376 I need a little more information, I'm assuming it is a 2 stroke, 90Hp, carbureted, 3 cylinder. Please let me know if all of this is true so I can continue?
@@caelumellis2376 this Mercury website gives a lot of information: Yours is unsdr 70, 700 (3cyl) www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/parts-and-accessories/parts-catalog
porboysdream, yes pretty easy, most people think this magic, and are afraid to try something new. Videos make that a little easier. Please subscribe. Thank you.
One of the BEST videos on youtube. Informative and to the point ... Educational and instructional ... No Stories , No kids, no dogs just some great information that is extremely well put together .
I have a 1995 40 HP Mercury on a Bass Tracker I purchased new. I am not going to need to rebuild my carbs for the first time due to a leak. I have replaced my impeller twice. I have only replaced my plugs and wires once. I only run non-ethanal gas 92 octane and Mercury fuel additives. I can crank this engine after setting up months at a time with the first start. My engine looks as new today as it did when it was actually new. It also helps that I have stored my boats and other equipment INSIDE. Outdoors is murder on equipment. My old bass tracker boat is flawless after 28 years of use. Great video.
This is a FANTASTIC video!!!! Very instructional and thorough!! Thank you sir!
Thanks for the best tutorial,very appreciative :) from Adelaide Australia on my 1963 Catalina caribbean 115 hp mercury.
Thanks for this video! After watching this, I’m confident enough to tackle mine.
Glad you found it helpful Chuck!
Excellent video. Straight to the point. Thank you.
Thanks for taking the time! Great help.
Thank you, glad it helped!
Make sure you get the Quicksilver kits as the Sierra kits top port gaskets are too large and don't fit well. You'll need to sand the angled edge of the Sierra Top Port Gasket. The OEM Quicksilver gaskets fit perfect out of the package.
Agree wholeheartedly, I always try to stay with OEM when possible. In this video you can see the viton tipped needles were deformed by fuel additives, the stock OEM needles were solid stainless steel, which are a much better choice with today's fuels and the additives from the fuel manufacturers, and also what we may add on the side. Great comment thank you.
I got the Sierra kits??? What do I need to do. Memorial weekend 2023
I have an 80s model Mercury 500 horse for carburetors the bottom two don't have a fuel-air mixture screws sent normal? Thank you in advance for your quick response great video
Very good video. You’re great at these tutorials. 👌
This an excellent video! Thank You !
Thank you for the video my brother I have one question I'm at 100 horsepower Mercury the bottom two carburetors don't have an adjustment airs mixture screw is that normal
Excellent tutorial. In your experience, if you find carbs like this soaked in fuel and oil which gaskets or components are faulty? I know that rebuilding the entire carb makes the most sense I just have a suspicion that mine are leaking at those brass fuel inlet fittings that piggy back the fuel/oil across all three carbs. Is that a common leak point or plug point in those brass inlets at each carb?
Great video I bought 3 carbs but they came without the main jets ant idea of the size for an 80hp mercury outboard?
Just did mine,60hp merc,what a great little video thankyou.
Appreciate the comment, thank you.
Thank-you Rick look forward to hearing from you!!
I'm working on a 2006 50hp 2 stroke mercury. How do you know if Reed valves and blocks are needed. Ty
I have a 100hp mercury from 1992. The 3rd carb from the bottom is leaking a lot of fuel from the hole you are spraying at 4.06. Is that hole a overflow? If it is, then propably the floats needle is stuck because of gunk? I dont think the level is set incorrectly because that is the only carb that leaks.
Chances are yes that is an overflow, and the float would be stuck, the alcohol in today's fuels cause a lot of issues, spray some Gumout in that hole, leave it for a few days, then start it, if it still leaks while running tap the carb bowl with the handle of a screwdriver, a few times. Sometimes this works, then run premium fuels without ethanol, and run some Gumout in the tank every so often.
WHAT TYPE OF RULER IS THAT METRIC / CENTIMETERS OR SOMETHING ELSE. DO YOU PUT THE END ON THE TIP OF THE CARBURETOR I CAN NOT SEE THAT WELL BUT NICE VIDEO THANKS FOR THE HELP .
1:22
How did you determine the size of the jet drill before you cleaned out the tube?
The fuel inlet needles you show with destorted tips at approx 1min.32 sec through the video where asre those located please
very good job making the video. I have the same carburetors except mine are size 89. Do you think the gaskets you used will fit? I have a four cylinder but when I took the fuel stops out number 3 and 4 carburetor, I noticed the fuel stops looked different then the top two. Do you think they are just worn and all the fuel stops should be the same if the carburetors are all the same?
The charts at the end were great but it cut off what I needed. I have a 2000 Mercury 90elpto. Where can I hand that chart. In the process of rebuilding the carburetors now. Thanks
Here is what I have, not sure if it will help, I'm now on Rumble, got hacked, and RUclips locked me out in 2020. Just a fluke that my phone left me on today! www.justanswer.com/uploads/ROCKETBOAT/2008-11-28_192732_3b.pdf
Thanks. I was actually able to get the service manual so I got everything I needed and carbs are rebuilt. Thanks for the help
great video, wish I'd watched it before I rebuilt by 2000 90hp. A word of caution be very careful to not get the gaskets and diaphrams out of sequence. I did that and the pump kinda worked and it caused me to go on a wild goose chase looking for other problems. The other problem I had is that the factory service manual depicted many different versions and the assembly sequence was slightly different. I should have taken photos or made drawings as I disassembled. These are great OBs especially for the diyer.
hopelessDiy, thanks for watching and the great comment.
Thanks for the comment.
WTF...??? Sorry dude, No pump in a WME carburetor...
Which direction to turn mixture for rich / lean? Is turn in (clock-wise) --> leaner?
You are correct clockwise = leaner on that carburetor.
Hi great video do you have the link to order the 3 kits to rebuild the carbs
Perfect. Very useful video! Thank you.
Thank you , appreciate the comment.
Nice video, I don't understand the idle part what does it mean 1-1/4 like how much do you turn it to be 1-1/4? Is it one whole turn and a quarter turn?
whats the setting of the float , i did that and mine is leaking flooding , should it be even with the carburetor
To the point and thanks a lot for the specs at the end. I was wandering about float height.
Thanks Phil glad it helped!
What is the correct height of the float and from where it is measured? Thank you
The float is measured from the flat bowl mounting area, and I believe the height to be 9/16", it is at the end of the video. Good luck!
A lot of people i see that have the 90 hp the bottom carb are leaking gas over time through the throut need to adjust the float hite lower n make sure the needle tip is still good. The float does not need to be straight it can be Bent down some. Its always the bottom carb✌️
Could you help me plz.im having trouble with a used carb.when I received it the bolt that holds the bowl on is striped badly im having trouble finding any carb.so if there is a way to fix I would be grateful.
Best would be to identify what the screw size, and thread is, then have the hole welded shut, re-drilled to the size for the correct tap, and re-tapped. Second option would be to install a heli-coil if they make one in the thread size. I can do the first option if you want. I charge $75/hr. PM me if your interested. 9207373767
There are other options also, Locktite makes a Form-A-Thread, they have good products, I have used it before and it worked good for me. I'm just not sure if it would be a permanent fix, especially for something your goingvout on tge water with. A least one of those screws has empty space above, a longer screw with a nut on top would get you by, kind of a jury rig, but would work in certain circumstances. Being a welder I know what fix I would do. Good luck!
Where did you find that idle screw chart I have a 03 and I can't seem to get it set right
Thanks for the video and good job. I don't see the PDF, however, and am currently at a loss as to which of the 3 different carb kits I should purchase for my motor (115 4 cyl).
www.justanswer.com/uploads/ROCKETBOAT/2008-11-28_192732_3b.pdf
Hi great video gave me confidence to takle my carbs,No1 carb is marked 84-1(i take it its a little newer) the emulsion tube you clean out the jet with a drill my jet seems pussed to one side in the holding (I am sure i have not knocked it IS THIS OK thanks ,have not yet stripped down other 2 carbs waiting for gasket kit .Marriner 75hp engine 2004 made in Belguim
I couldn't see the needle valve clip. I wish I could have.
i appreciate the video, it is very easy to follow. I rebuilt my 2000 75hp mercury size 84 WME carbs. But I cannot find the float adjustment specs and I dont like guessing. Can you tell me where to get that information?
I did the carbs on a 4 cylinder 115 hP Merc (1999).... The top two carbs had adjustable idle fuel / air screws .... the bottom two carbs had only a brass plug .. Does that make any sense to you ? I also noticed that the brass tube that sits in the center of the carb bowl was different for each carb. The top had holes in the tube ... the second had less holes and carb 3 and 4 had no holes .. ???? Hope you have the time to explain ... thank you
I'm having a issue with mine bottom 2 carbs have 2 holes each maybe 1/4 from the bottom side of the carb I'm so confused. The top 2 don't have this
Love the video! even though i am mechanically minded on motor vehicles i don't think i have what it takes to tinker with 1 carburetor let alone 3, i have a wonderful marine mechanic who does all my work as he recently serviced and rebuilt all 3 carburetors but noticed when he was adjusting them, the top carby had little or no change in the idle mixture screw! by all means i didn't want to question he's work because regardless of that the motor works and runs 100%, it just played on my mind why this happened because i know with cars it actually meant something if an idle mixture didn't have an affect, any suggestions would be appreciated!
Well most cars had one carburetor and one float, so with three carburetors you will have three float bowls so each may be set just a little different from each other, a lower float height would require more air flow through the venturi to get the same fuel flow as a carburetor with a higher float setting. If the throttle butterflies are not synchronized perfectly that could do it, it could cause less air flow across the butterfly (venturi) if its open a little more which would make the carburetor rely more on the mid range and high speed jet and less on the low speed jet so that carburetor would be less apt to react to adjustments of the low speed needle. The top cylinder usually runs a little warmer than the other two because the top cylinder gets a little less cooling than the other two. Sometimes there are even different sized jets (main jets mostly) to make up for the uneven cooling at the upper cylinder. I wish I could give you one reason but that's just not possible. Good luck, thanks for watching and the great comment that makes me have to think, its good for the brain!
I soaked mine in the gunk carb cleaner gallon pail with strainer bucket, then blew out the orifices at 125 psi. They came out good..
That is a great way to do it Stephen! Thanks for the comment.
Thanks great job. When I pulled my carbs off my 90hp I noticed the top number 1 carburetor has a hole between the idle screw cavity and the air intake that carbs 2 & 3 don't have. Did you know if that's correct or why it's different. Thanks
I get that question a lot, I believe some carbs had it and some didn't, not sure what year or models. Thanks for watching Kevin! Click on the link below, the lower right picture on page 1 shows it and says it is a "bowl vent jet". www.discount-marine.com/club/files/carbur_50_cv_2t_merc.pdf
Was there a reason why you didn't take the main jet out and clean?
The air/fuel screw is set to 1.5 turns out?
Yes, sometimes it's good right there, sometimes you have to adjust a little to get it to idle where you want it.
How do you ensure they are all still synced up when reinstalling them?
You could hook up a vacuum gauge to each carb, they make sets of gauges to do this, I have done it on motorcycles but I'm not sure if there are even ports upstream of the butterfly to hook them up. I just eyeball them, the human eye is quite an instrument in itself! You want to set one and then set all the rest to that first one. By feel with your finger works pretty well also, a finger in two different carbs and fell for movement as someone moves the throttle gently. Thanks for the comment.
Love the video. I am going to rebuild my carbs and fallow this video step by step. Just curious if my carbs will be similar to this one? I have an 83 mercury mariner 2 stroke 50hp el. Thanks
I will look up that info this morning.
I need you outboards serial number to search it, and also how many cylinders?
Hi
how many turns must the idle screw out ?
I have a 100 Horsepower Mercury 4 Zyl. 1989.
Thanks
Did I miss the link to the pdf for carb settings?
All of the information I found is screen shot into the end of the video, no link. Good luck.
Great video. I'm getting ready to do the same rebuild. Engine will not run, barely runs while flooding and have fuel going into crankcase. Assuming probably a stuck float?
That sounds like a correct deduction. Glad you enjoyed the video, good luck, enjoy the summer season.
What is the threaded hole next to the idle mixture screw for? This has been driving me nuts.
Thanks. Which is a better way to clean carbs? 1) use spray can of carb cleaner and rags to wipe clean or 2) soak the carb parts in carb cleaner container and blow out with compressor? Thanks
Either works good I would always back up with compressed air. Most times carb cleaner, compressed air, and being very careful with a small jet drill smaller than the jet aperture making sure not to scratch the surface of the jet or it will change the flow characteristics.
I have a 1992 115 hp Mercury outboard can you tell me what the settings are for this carb there is four of them i need to know the float and needle valve setting if you can help it would be great . Thanks
You will need your serial number off your outboard so you can go in to the link below, find your year and engine, then find out the size/numbers of your carburetor.
www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/parts-and-accessories/parts-catalog
Then you can go to the next link, find your carburetor and what your settings should be. Good Luck!
www.discount-marine.com/club/files/carbur_50_cv_2t_merc.pdf
Hi there, great video. guess I get A bit confused with ordering right kits, maybe you can help. mercury 2-stroke 4-cylinder S/N# 6486685, ‘believe’ its 84-85ish year. Carbs say WMA-1 top and WMA-3 for bottom. Think it’s 1395-9023 kit? Also, Do the kits have to include more than just the gaskets and such? I so appreciate any help, thanks Manny
I need horsepower yet to verify Manny?
H.R.I. services llc Ricky Hembel, oh I’m sorry, 50 HP
@@mannyvilla1400 I see why you got a little lost, I concur with you 1395-9023 should be your kit. Two carbs, float bowl, integrated fuel pump. If you want a copy of what I have for a service manual I can email you the pages that cover that model carb. Send me an email to rickyhembel@hotmail.com
H.R.I. services llc Ricky Hembel thanks your the best, will do...
Great video. I have a carb on my 75 that is pissing gas out of the hole next to the idle screw adjustment. What would cause that?
Click the the link below on the first page lower right hand corner it names part d as the idle mixture screw, and part c as the bowl vent jet. So if there is fuel coming out of the bowl vent jet that would mean there is an issue with the float and needle system not stopping gas flow into the float bowl. Examples could be, dirt in the needle and seat, bad needle or seat, float has hole in it, float adjusted incorrectly. Most likely dirt or debris.
www.discount-marine.com/club/files/carbur_50_cv_2t_merc.pdf
I have same one why Number 2 and 3 is leaking
Great video man, thank you!
What were you doing with the socket at 6:25 - 6:29?? Can you give me some details as to the socket size and whatnot did exactly?
My mechanic is speechless as to why mub3rd carb is leaking. I think it's coming from the nozzle weld gasket. I've replaced 2 times now and have even put an extra one on, it still leaks.
Thanks for this video. I rebuilt the carb and still had issues so I took off the reed block to check the valves. Do you happen to know the torque specs for the valve block bolts?
Thanks for video. I've just done this on my 1998 90hp Merc. Have identical carbs. I see it says 1+1/4 turn for idle jet. But you seem to not do a full turn only 180 degrees plus another 90 degrees. Surely one full turn is turning the screw two times and then a quarter is another 90 degrees? To me you only turned it out 3/4 of a turn in total.
Yeah the book calls for 1-1/4 turns, I usually like to start at 3/4 turn and adjust from there. Just the way I've always done it. Thanks for watching my videos Ryan.
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay ok thanks for reply. Just checking I wasn't misunderstanding the book. Mine wouldn't idle at 1+1/4 but idles nice at 1+1/2.
So I just rebuilt my carbs, my motor has 3 of them and they are identical to these carbs, now when I prime the fuel line I hear air coming out of the top carb and it doesn't prime. I can't figure out why. Any ideas?
You need to track down where exactly the air is coming from? I would also trace out your priming line back to the tank to see if there is a leak there where it could be sucking air instead of fuel.
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay thanks for the reply, it was indeed sucking air from the fuel line. I got it all fixed and running good. I just feel dumb for not figuring that out sooner. Haha.
@@dougyfresh9013 we all learn as we go, sometimes better to ask someone who is not there, and doesn't know exactly what was done. Good luck!
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay thanks. I ran the boat in my yard and it ran fine, took it to the lake today and wouldn't run. I think I need to adjust the float and needle, do you remember what yours needed to be measured too? Because the carb in this video is identical to mine so I'm sure mine should be set to the same.
@@dougyfresh9013 zoom to the end of th eff video and it shows that, good luck.
hola como regulo un motor con 3 carburadores gracias
Great video! My question is, what is the hole next to the idle adjustment screw? I've noticed some WME carbs have a jet in the place and some are left open like yours. Thanks!
Click on the link below, the lower right picture on page 1 shows it and says it is a "bowl vent jet". Glad you enjoyed the video, sorry it took so long for me to get back to you, this took a little looking. www.discount-marine.com/club/files/carbur_50_cv_2t_merc.pdf
Can i remove the emulsion tube easily to clean it? I see you didn't remove it. when i cleaned my 50 i didn't remove it but polished the outside with a soft dremel and sprayed carb clnr and compressed air. But when i polished it, there was definitely fuel varnish and i really wanted to thoroughly clean it but wasn't comfortable with trying to remove it to clean all of it. Thanks for the vid bud!!!
Sorry I usually reply within 24 hours some how your comment slid passed me. I would not try to remove it as they are pressed in and you may crush the tube, then you would have to replace it. I am not sure if they sell that separately. I would clean with carb cleaner and or run a small drill bit through by hand to remove any debris without removing any brass material.
thanks for the info, I will try that tomorrow, if that don't work I will remove the carb and clean it.
Dan Caudle, good luck Dan, let me know if you run into any problems?
There is no screw or bolt or needle in the hole to left the idle micture needle ?I have a carb taken of a 92 30 hp that looks like yours and am surprised there is nothing in that treaded hole to the left there because there was fuel in that cavity when i removed the two countersunk bolts and cover .Mine looks like yours and yours never had one either .Can you tell me why or just clean it and keep going and leave it empty
I will need more information, 2 cylinder or 3, I assume it is a WME carb if it looks just like mine in the video? See if you can see numbers on the side, WME and then a number like 63, or 66. The hole your talking about is a fuel bowl vent some had jets in and some didn't.
two cylinder 30 hp wme 3301-824924-c on one side 36a 0095 on the other
@terrymunn1224 I also need your Mercury outboard serial number, it should be located on the transom bracket. Also it's 2 cylinder, 2 carburetors right?
one carb 30 hp 0G265749@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay
good video, I am working on a Oct of 99 125HP and the carburetors differ, Carb's 1&2 have idle jet screws, Carb's 3&4 have just screw in plugs where the idle mixture screws belong. I look inside the carburetor and there is not a hole or seat inside the carburetor for a jet needles to seat against. At an idle it does not run on 3&4 but will pick them up with some starting fluid sprayed into the carburetors. It looks like the carburetors have been off this motor before. Has anyone else seen this? The carbs are correct for the year and motor, they have a printed number on the side of the body listing, 81-1 thru 81-4. This make no sense to me.
In tge eary 90's Mercury started looking for efficiency/fuel mileage, they set up many engines with four carbs for performace, but the lower two do not come in until 1750 rpm's, there is usually an accellerator pump set up for those two carbs to make up for the lag it would have from a hard standing start acceleration.
Great vid.. I have a 1977 Mercury 850 EL 85 hp.. I know I have a fuel leak and I'm pretty sure the float on the bottom carb is stuck... my question is how can I find out what carbs I have to order new gaskets and floats... also this is a shot in the dark but ... my motor runs great on muffs. Goes in gear and all,, but when I've takin it to the lake it runs great until I put it in gear .. as soon as it clicks in gear it just shuts off.. no sputter or any thing . Just shuts off like I turned it off.. please any one help
Click on the Mercury marine link in the description of this video, and launch the parts finder, outboards, carbs, 850, I see two a four cylinder, and a six cylinder. Then verify your WME or whatever should be on the side of your carb. As far as it shutting off there is a lot of information in the form of PDF documents on the web Search "mercury marine ignition specifications PDF", and see what you come up with. Off the top of my head I am going to say it is possible that its idling too high and will automatically shut off if engaged to stop for fracturing something in the drive.
H.R.I. services llc Ricky Hembel ...: this is probably a really dumb question .. but what is WME?
pimpshack81, it's a Walbro carburetor, and its their specific name for that version of carburetor.
H.R.I. services llc Ricky Hembel thank you very much for all the help
Use the manual for idle screw reference, don't use what it was set at... no telling who's adjusted in its lifetime. Besides, you need to fine tune it anyways, likely needs it once cleaned
Hi Ricky, I really enjoyed the carb and fuel pump videos. They were very descriptive and complete. I have a 2003 125 HP 2+2 that stopped running at high speed after sitting for a month. I cleaned carbs and replaced accel pump diaphragm. I wondered if you have thoughts or video on accel pump issues. Happy Memorial Day and God Bless!
I do not have any videos on an Accel pump, what is the model #, I am assuming it is a diaphragm pump, what's the application?
Serial # is 0T462062 Model 1125412ZD - 2003 125 HP 2 cyl 2+2 jet drive.
I have owned it 5 months after it sat 2 yrs. It ran very well after they changed fuel and filter. Then it sat another month, and then only runs up to 3000 rpm.
I cleaned the carbs and changed seals as you described. And changed some of the tubing.
It still only runs to 3000 rpm and the second set of carbs does not kick in. The accelerator pump is a diaphram pump that sprays a small amount of fuel to initiate carbs 3 and 4.
I think the accel pump may be clogged. I did change out the plunger and diaphragm since the original one was worn.
Please advise how I might be able to trouble shoot why carb 3 and 4 do not kick in. Thanks!
Great video! Thank you for taking your time to show us DIYer's. It was a very clear and easy video to follow. Near the end of your video, you show a page that shows the float clearance to be 9/16" and you say that is the same float setting for all WME carburetors. I am rebuilding my carbs on my 115hp 2 stroke Mercury (serial 0G272780) that has four WME 33 carbs. But my SELOC Repair Manual states the float clearance for my carbs should be 7/16" or 11mm. What manual is your page from? I want to make sure I get the correct float clearance.
Nevermind. Now I see why it's listed as 9/16" and my SELOC Manual is 7/16". Your manual measures it from the top of the float where SELOC measures it from the lowest part of the float.
@@captaincaptain3287 glad all your questions were answered. Thanks for the comments.
9/16 (no gasket from carb to float bottom upside down) at the point where the float begins to slope down to the front face. Practically speaking the float should be set level as held upside down.
The video image is capturing the only step not the formal procedure, it is not intended to show the correct location for a the 9/16 measurement.
on my 1987 the bottom carb leaks gas, the motor floods and I must drain the carb. what would you do to correct the problem
Dan Caudle, athe float is stuck in the down (open position) which is not closing off the needle valve. You can first try to tap on the sides of the float bowl with the handle of a screwdriver, not hard enough to break anything, but maybe dislodge whatever is holding the float open. Try doing this without it running, then start it, and try again the engine vibration may help. if this does not work you will have to dissassemble the float bowl and clean it which requires removing the carburetor. At that point you may want to do all three. If it works run some good quality premium fuel through it like Shell which has cleaning agents in their fuel.
Thanks for doing this video!
The link to justanswer is an empty pdf. The index is there, but nothing in the document
Thank yoi Rich I will check it out and update it accordingly, hopefully it is there somewhere or I can find an alternative. Thank you again!
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay Do you know what the torque spec is for the attenuator bolts that hold the carbs on?
@@richward8776 I am goofing off in western Wisconsin today, but will be home tonight, verify, and let you know. 100 in lbs. Remember they are in aluminum.
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay It should be inch pounds but I think 25 is correct. Western Wisconsin? I fish in north central, Chippewa Flowage near Hayward. 🙂
@@richward8776 We were in Wausau, my wife wanted to go to Rib Mtn and check out the fall colors. If found it in my book 100in lbs.
quick question I have a center carburetor mariner 90 hp there is a black bushing on the throttle shaft, would you know were I could get one or the part number or the proper name
Sorry that I did not reply, sometimes RUclips does not notify me that I have messages and that was the case here. I assume by now you found your answer if not then reply to this and I will look for the answer. What year 90HP Merc?
Great video! any chance you have the rest of the service information for this set up? i was reading through and it referenced section 4b for reed valve inspection and its not linked. thank you in advanced for any information you have.
Sorry I spent and hour searching the internet which is where I found the other information, and I could not find section 4b, I don't know if it was ever uploaded to the web. I did find other great reading searching Google under reed cage, or Mercury reed inspection, always search using "PDF" as your final search criteria. It will amaze you what is out there! Thanks for watching my videos.
Hello, thank you for the video. But I have a 40HP 2-T engine and it doesn't appears in your pdf file. Where did you find that mercury manual? I would like to have the complete manual for my 40HP. (I'm not talking about the "owner's manual"). Thank you.
Search “Mercury Marine”, then click on the heading “Parts & Accessories”, then click on “Mercury Parts Catalog”, then “Launch Parts Catalog”, in the left hand column click “Outboard”, then click “2 stroke carb” and pick your 40 HP engine there are 17 to choose from, then you need to find your serial #, and click on it go to “carburetor” click on that. This will open up an exploded view of your carb, at this point it will give you the approximate carb size (which you will need to verify on your carb) in one case it was a WME66 which is made by Walbro. From it is a search entering something like “Mercury 40 HP Walbro WME 66 PDF”. Some of the online parts outlets have great information. You can also search “Mercury outboard fuel systems PDF”. Below is the address to one site I found. It’s kind of poke & hope, good luck!
www.marineengine.com/parts/mercury-outboard-parts/40-2-cyl/1b000001-up-usa/carburetor
I ran mine so much that the seat for the needle has pitted so much that it is not rebuildable . Seat is permanently pressed in the throttle body .
A lot had pressed in seats, I can only assume that is what is in yours. Seeing as though it would be junk anyway, you could try something I discussed with someone else this week on the same issue. Figure out what the seat angle is supposed to be, then take a piece of round steel stock, have one end machined to that angle, then put different grits of valve lapping compound on it starting with couse and woring towards fine, mount the round stock in a drill motor and polish a new seat from the old one.
Thanks for the response = Mine was not a flat seat like a engine valve . Some have a tapered edge. ruclips.net/video/S2iRLnWAyFc/видео.html
Rounded edge
Drilled it out and taped it to fit a lawnmower seat.
I have the same Mercury outboard. I have taken the 3 carb off. My problem is installing them back on. It has 4 fixed studs that you place the first two carbs back on. The problem is the bottom carb. The two bottom bolts are so difficult to insert back on due to the bolts being long and are difficult to place back in to hang the bottom carb due to the reduced size of the mid section. Did you experience this problem? Thank You.
Yes I don't remember exactly what it was but I do remember having some difficulty reinstalling them.
I am looking for fix for a 1985 50hp Mercury carburetors
I will need to know the serial number and what you are looking to fix?
A131786
Sorry to rebuild carbs
This is an awesome place to go for starters if you know your way around a computer: I am doing the work right now thoughwww.mercurymarine.com/en/us/parts-and-accessories/parts-catalog
How about M201904031786 ?
Yours is the best video I found on this. Couldn't find anything at all on how to remove the carburetors from the engine. I have the Mercury service manual and it says "Remove carburetor as outlined in Carburetor Removal in this section" (the page I am referring to is at 8:02 in the video). But there is NO Carburetor Removal in the Carburetor section or anywhere in the manual. Very frustrating. Does anyone know whether the oil tank has to be removed in order to remove the carburetors? Are there any other steps in removing the carburetors which may be particularly problematic? I read a comment below about the bottom carburetor being troublesome. Any info will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you Henry your comment is much appreciated.
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay Can you answer my questions about removal of the carburetors from the engine and whether the oil tank has to be removed before removing the carburetors?
Sorry about that Henry, I didn't see the rest of your comment. It's been several years since I did this project. I do remember loosening the oil injection tank, but I did not need removed it, I think I left one bolt in or put one back in after removing the carbs. Putting the carbs and linkage back on, make sure to take pictures before dissembling anything. I put a link below to two different videos that may be of some help one is of a 60HP, and one of a 90 HP carb removal. Good Luck, enjoy your summer!
ruclips.net/video/bq5sibvVN7E/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/YXt8STkaP5A/видео.html
Another good source: www.perfprotech.com/mercury-marine-parts-catalog/collection/01/mercury
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay Thanks for the reply. I worked on it today. It's a Mercury 2-stroke 3 cylinder Saltwater 90. Sticker on the engine inside the cowl says it was built April 2004. Th e carbs on it look very similar to the ones in your video. After studying it carefully, it seemed that the only way to get the bottom carb out was to split the bottom cowl. The two bottom bolts were just too long to clear. Five bolts. Not too bad. Once you separate the cowl everything comes out easily. The oil tank does not have to be removed, but it does have to be held in place with a piece of wire so that it does not sag forward.
Hi Ricky - great video, mate - thanks for taking the time to publish it.
I tackled the service and am pretty happy with the outcome, although #2 carb is leaking fuel from the screw-hole next to the idle mixture screw, which has me very confused. I'm confident that all gaskets are in place & screws fastened.
Do you have any tips/ideas that I can follow-up on, please?
Thanks in advance,
Jase
Jason that is the vent hole for the float bowl ... if fuel is coming out of there it is most likely the needle valve is not closing from the float or the float adjustment is not correct.
Got aI 150 hp mercury that need rebuild carburator. Its that will be same process??
How much it will cost if I pay someone???
That depends what carburetor you have, I will need the year, how many cylinders is it has, and the serial number in order to give you that information.
Is this same carb used on a 1991 25 HP Merc?
There are many different 25 HP Mercury outboards, 2 stroke, 4 stroke, etc and you will need your model/ serial numbers to get to the correct information. What I see under 2 stroke is possibly a WMC 64 carburetor. Once you have your numbers go to the link below click on the "Launch" button and find your model and serial number which will give good information and that would be where to get your parts from so you get real Mercury OEM parts. Then do a Google search for "WMC carburetor PDF" which will bring up PDF documents on that specific carburetor. Thanks for watching!
www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/parts-and-accessories/parts-catalog
Great video! Good camera angle and good instructions with links and explanations. Is this the newer 2 stroke carb used on the "Tower" engines after 1985 and newer? Thanks.
Yes as highlighted in the PDF during the video it was a 1998. Thank you for watching.
Has anyone heard of WM carburetors? I have an old mercury marine engine that's from 1991-3 and its carburettors have WM-11-1 and WM-11-3 on them, does anyone know the difference of if they're the same as WME?
Please send me the year and serial number of the engine, I have a book and information I can find for you.
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay I'm not certain on the year as I bought it third hand, the serial number is 8072269 and it was made in South Australia (Victoria) according to its plate. Thanks heaps.
@@caelumellis2376 I need a little more information, I'm assuming it is a 2 stroke, 90Hp, carbureted, 3 cylinder. Please let me know if all of this is true so I can continue?
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay it's a 70 HP 2 stroke, 3 cylinders and oddly it has only 2 carburettors.
@@caelumellis2376 this Mercury website gives a lot of information: Yours is unsdr 70, 700 (3cyl) www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/parts-and-accessories/parts-catalog
Great video thanks!
Thank you for watching and the comment, glad you enjoyed it!
Will this work for my 75ELPTO outboard?
Yes, look at eight minutes into the video right above where I have the section highlighted and you will see "75 ELPTO". Thanks for watching.
The music is too loud and doesn’t match what you’re doing. Very distracting.
0:21 I would be so gratified if my carb was that gunky when I checked it.
Awesome video!!
Rick thanks for getting back to me i can not navigate that site i dont no?? My Ser # is 0D143400 1992 year 4cyl Merc can you help thanks
I have been in Lake of the woods, fishing for the last two days. Ten hour drive home tomorrow, I will check it out for you on Sunday.
Great video but could do without the music
🙂👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you!
Mercury 100 horse
Ok
Thumbs down for all the noise.
Rebuilt all 4 on my 115 merc after watching this vid with no problems easiest carb I have ever rebuilt. There is nothing to them.
porboysdream, yes pretty easy, most people think this magic, and are afraid to try something new. Videos make that a little easier. Please subscribe. Thank you.
Best video ever