How to replace Coil Pack Connectors and Diagnose an Oil Leak on a Nissan 300zx!
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Unfortunately the daily has a small oil leak so I had to diagnose where in fact it was coming from so it can be fixed. Along with this I was able to swap over my old corroded coil pack connectors, so no more misfires during drifting! We are so close to 7,000 subscribers and I will be doing a giveaway as soon as we hit that mark!
Products used:
Connectors- www.z1motorspo...
Valvecover Gasket Kit- www.z1motorspo...
Did you do any other deletes besides coolant line, egr and pcv? I noticed you didn’t have wires running everywhere and looked a little cleaner and got the plenum off quicker.
The daily has the AIV, PCV, EGR, Carbon canister, and hard clutch line were deleted. Along with the ptu relocated under the nose panel. It's a very seldom mild tuck and in the future will be much more cleaner when I can find another daily haha
@@ZBruhzchannel nice! I plan on doing the same probably tuck that fuse box on the driver side too and buy new wire harnesses for the engine and transmission for a even cleaner look!
@@ZBruhzchannel oh yeah I meant to tell you thank you about 9 months back I emailed you about my Z with mystery stalling. As it turns out it was that small vacuum hose on the plenum driver side and bad.
@@jeremythompson6822 sounds like some great moves are about to be made!
@@ZBruhzchannel yeah man! Can’t wait to see what you got planned next for the drift car
Do you think if I remove the plenum I can remove the egr valve more easy?
I would say so, still going to be tough with the motor in the car but can be done!
Great video. I need some help though. Running out of ideas now. Took my Z (NA manual) to work - worked fine, no issues. Went to the shop on my lunch break, literally 2-3mins drive, 5mins inside and 2-3 mins back. When I parked up, it was idling for a few seconds and then it stalled. Wouldn't start up again. Tried a few times, nothing. It wanted to, it was cranking but no spark. Ended up pulling plug 1 & 4 out and both were covered in fuel. Dried them, and nothing. The car was running a little rich, can smell it when you start it up, but never had any issues until now - all of a sudden. I had it towed home, let it sit for about 4 days and tried starting it again. Now it's not even cranking. I turn the key and it just clicks, as if the batter was dead (isn't, tried a new batter and had the same result).. any idea what it could be? I'm suspecting either leaking O-rings on the injectors and the combination of it running cold and over-fuelling for such a short trip just didnt agree with the car. But now it doesn't even wanna crank, so no clue what to look for.. starter relay? Any input is appreciated. thanks!
I'd check ohm test alternator, check starter relay, check starter. I'd clean up the grounds and make sure there is no exposed wires or any corrosion
I needed to be able to see how you took the connectors off the coil packs, and whether you needed a particular tool?
Check out the video around 4:20, talks about using a pic and how to remove the connector
Man wish i came across ur videos when i had my 300zx
Time to get another!!!
The RTV should be applied and then the parts assembled straight away. According to the Permatex RTV instructions you should wait an hour and then torque to spec.
Yea from what I have learned by handling it in the Northeast it's best to lay it down wait about 15-30 min and lightly tighten about half the torque spec. Then give it a few hours and torque down to spec
Im gonna be picking up my first z32 this Saturday after doing months of research on them (twin turbo with a 5 speed) and your videos are some of the best and most helpful ones out there. Much love and look forward to more vids 🙏
Love it and thank you for the support! Good luck with the build!
Heat up the dented spot with hot water or heat gun
👍💪💯
Nice almost 7k! Can't wait for the season!!!
Almost!!! And me either!!!!
Love your videos
Thank you so much🙏🙏🥰
😉 Ｐ𝐫Ｏ𝕞Ｏ𝓢ｍ