Fertilizer, no Fertilizer if u have algae problems. And less light, that gives plants a advantage and disadvantage vor algae. Works quite well from my experience...
This should be a helpful series. You're good at breaking things down to a simple, understandable, relatable format for people. 👍 That's a good tip to wait 2 weeks before adjusting again.
I am quite horrible at balancing light. I keep the light on too long because I want to see fishies...but now I have some cool greenhair algae that looks like a vertical sea of grass on one side of my tank. Great video!
I love watching mine at night so I got a small wattage desk lamp and I put it on next to the tank at the back. I don't direct the light into there, I turn it toward the wall and it puts this really cool twilight into the tank. I love watching the shadows and it's not too much for the tank
Hurray!! A new series from Irene! This is sooo needed, I just discovered that I have been fighting against BBA but I actually have staghorn algae. Now I'm spot treating and I hope to get some more good advice from this new series. Thanks!
I had the Winters Sun hit my Shrimp aquarium for just ten minutes a day, and it cost an algae bloom. I had to move the tank, so that no direct Sun light hit the aquarium at all. Other than that, I had no algae problems on either of my three tanks. Diane Walstad’s method of lighting an aquarium is a proven method. Few aquarists know of this method. I for one use this method for many years, and have algae down to a minimum. My Shrimps and Otocinclus Cats keep any algae down to controlable ability. Her book on ‘ the ecology of the planted tank,’ is a must for any aquarists who keeps live plants in their aquarium or aquariums. The photo light period is broken up into two stages, with a four hour break of lights out. Algae needs a steady stream of light to grow, plants do well in this plan of a lighted tank. Aquatic plants are not affected by this method. There are a few aquarists out there who share Diane Walstad’s method for a planted tank. The book should be in every aquarist library.
Great video, some good tips. Personally, I would start out with 6 hours at about 60% setting ( we don't have many of the brands that you have here in South Africa, I think what I have is more or less the equivelant of a Hyger or Beamswork). That works well for my tanks that aren't more than about 18 inches high. My biggest tank is about 24 inches high and there I have the lights on for 8 - 10 hours on full blast. I find that your height from bottom to top makes a big difference to lighting requirements.
I just started having to deal with this in my tank but I also added fish and feeding more so I think it might be from that. Either way I am beyond happy that you are doing this series!! Thank you all for bringing us this information.
I bought the Fluval plant but switched back to my normal Gex light. To adjust intensity I first add or remove some frog it or red roots, otherwise I just raise or lower it. For schedules, I finally ended up with a two on two off schedule for a total of 6 hours. The CO2 is timed to start pumping 30 minutes before each session and ends at the same time the lights do. This adds for a bit of preload although some is consumed from ambient light during the day. My dropper stays in the green although I do notice it slightly changes shades. The results of tweaking it in this matter has resulted in insane plant growth of which I have to stay on top of daily. Consistent water parameters have also been a benefit. My reds are now rich and vibrant. The little hair algae I had is decreasing as well. I honestly can’t attribute all the benefits to lighting alone tho. I added shrimp and snails, continually manipulate surface plants, adjust bio load and supplement amounts ect depending on what the tank, plants, and inhabitants are displaying. Honestly, videos like these are my first step in my approach the hobby. I have found that I have been able to avoid many issues if I first approach them with an educated and informed approach.
Weirdly my light is built into the lid (which is built onto the tank) and has no intensity adjustment. I'll look for a timer, and great tip with the black duct tape! I'll definitely try that! Thanks.
My bigvtankbis next to a window (the only place I could put it) and I planted an Amazon sword on the end closest to it. It grew beautifully and blocks a lot of the light. Thankfully, I haven't had any algae issues!
Luckily it was super easy for me. I stopped dosing fertiliser for a few weeks and if the algae stopped growing I know the issue is with ferts. If the algae is still growing I know the issue is with the light
You really do have the very best information, without all the bs. Great job! However, if you start your tank at 20-40 percent brightness, are the reds, whites, blues and greens all at that the same brightness level? Also, if you are going to increase the brightness once you realize that you are not getting algae, how do you that? Do you increase all LED colors at once, or do you increase let’s say, only a few colors like reds and whites first? Thank you and keep up the great videos.
Thank You. I like your information. I've watched a bunch of your videos. as well as Cory's & lots of Bentley .. I have a 20 gallon tall, just like yours so your ratios are pretty close to what works for me. I also have 3" of Eco Complete and the 24" Fluval 3.0. so your numbers there work well for me also. I actually don't have a single plant - yet .. I'm planning to use Easy Green and have had lots of time to research which plants I'm going to get soon .. once I get some plants established and surviving for awhile. I'm planning on getting a co2 Art system & generally doing Bentley's low and slow method .. ps. just my opinion. I do 40% water changes as needed to maintain 15-20 ppm NO3. I find that 1/2 the nitrogen cycle with lots of Matrix bio media & a strong aerobic colony. is much simpler than the REDOX thing and trying to reduce Nitrates without water changes .. my water has lots of minerals & a reasonable KH though. I can understand why you would go that way though. with all the additives & buffering you have to do. not changing all that after you have it under control is probably easier for you ..
Hi , thanks for the video 👍 . I'm trying to keep hyacinths in both of my aquariums . I just got grow lights . They did not do good before . I have only trace amounts of nitrate , nitride and ammonia . Plenty of fish & some other water plants . I think I am on the verge of over feeding in order to get some nutrients for the plants . I'm going to replace the hyacinths with very healthy plants from my outdoor pond since it is close to the weather killing the pond plants and me having 1 try to keep the aquarium plants alive over winter . Is there a simple test I can do to help my chances for me success ? Thanks
Hello, Aquarium Co-oP. Thank for this video. I have been trying for months to decrease the algae growth in my 30 gallon long tank. My percentages are currently set at 65% Red, 65% Green,75% White and 0% Blue based on suggestions, but the algae has not decreased much. You mentioned 20-40 percent is good for low light plants. Is that across all spectrums, red, blue green and white? A response would be greatly appreciated as there is too much conflicting information out there.
Hey! Are you guys stocking your hoodies sometime soon? Need some root tabs and would rather grab everything at once rather than making sepperate orders.
Hi there , i was looking on the website at the lighting recommendations . my question is what type of measurement is used for say the medium light vs the high light . I supposed im asking what unit of measurement is the most important and what should the minimum of that measurement be for a high light tank . which led colours do you prefer
My aquarium light has a timer but when it's off it's not really off its just extremely dim do you think that would effect plant growth? I think its a hyger from Amazon
I struggled with algae for months then I just stoped turning on my lights my plants are fine with only three or four hours of lights at night and I see no algae anymore. Just keep the lights off all day then around 10 when I get off work till about 1 am the lights are on
I just moved and the last thing I need to do is get my timers going again....well this bit me in the butt ...I left my lights on 3 days in a row wayyyyyy to long because I forgot and now green hair algae everywhere...So yeah....short lighting cycles with timers and try to keep your phosphates down and all should go well✌️💜
*What tips do you have for balancing the lighting in a planted tank to keep the algae under control?*
2 weeks ago?
@@FezCaliph it was privated, recorded at least 2 weeks in advance
Hey there! Just a warning, there are some scam bots lurking around down here, you'll know when you find one.
Cheers!
Start off from low but steady lighting, and work my way up while observing the status of the most 'sensitive' plants/algae.
Fertilizer,
no Fertilizer if u have algae problems.
And less light, that gives plants a advantage and disadvantage vor algae.
Works quite well from my experience...
This should be a helpful series. You're good at breaking things down to a simple, understandable, relatable format for people. 👍
That's a good tip to wait 2 weeks before adjusting again.
I am absolutely LOVING the extra content!!!!! thank you so much!!!
Same!!!
Thanks for this new well needed series 👍
I am quite horrible at balancing light. I keep the light on too long because I want to see fishies...but now I have some cool greenhair algae that looks like a vertical sea of grass on one side of my tank.
Great video!
I love watching mine at night so I got a small wattage desk lamp and I put it on next to the tank at the back. I don't direct the light into there, I turn it toward the wall and it puts this really cool twilight into the tank. I love watching the shadows and it's not too much for the tank
I love your videos Irene! Keep them coming
Hurray!! A new series from Irene! This is sooo needed, I just discovered that I have been fighting against BBA but I actually have staghorn algae. Now I'm spot treating and I hope to get some more good advice from this new series. Thanks!
Love the video! I always enjoy Irene’s videos. Great tips and information.
Always awesome videos from the Co Op!
I had the Winters Sun hit my Shrimp aquarium for just ten minutes a day, and it cost an algae bloom. I had to move the tank, so that no direct Sun light hit the aquarium at all. Other than that, I had no algae problems on either of my three tanks. Diane Walstad’s method of lighting an aquarium is a proven method. Few aquarists know of this method. I for one use this method for many years, and have algae down to a minimum. My Shrimps and Otocinclus Cats keep any algae down to controlable ability. Her book on ‘ the ecology of the planted tank,’ is a must for any aquarists who keeps live plants in their aquarium or aquariums. The photo light period is broken up into two stages, with a four hour break of lights out. Algae needs a steady stream of light to grow, plants do well in this plan of a lighted tank. Aquatic plants are not affected by this method. There are a few aquarists out there who share Diane Walstad’s method for a planted tank. The book should be in every aquarist library.
The fluval aquasky was the Hest thing I've got for my tank in terms of being able to manage the light brightness and time settings ☘️🌿
that piece of junk? really lol
Great video, some good tips. Personally, I would start out with 6 hours at about 60% setting ( we don't have many of the brands that you have here in South Africa, I think what I have is more or less the equivelant of a Hyger or Beamswork). That works well for my tanks that aren't more than about 18 inches high. My biggest tank is about 24 inches high and there I have the lights on for 8 - 10 hours on full blast. I find that your height from bottom to top makes a big difference to lighting requirements.
I just started having to deal with this in my tank but I also added fish and feeding more so I think it might be from that. Either way I am beyond happy that you are doing this series!! Thank you all for bringing us this information.
I bought the Fluval plant but switched back to my normal Gex light. To adjust intensity I first add or remove some frog it or red roots, otherwise I just raise or lower it. For schedules, I finally ended up with a two on two off schedule for a total of 6 hours. The CO2 is timed to start pumping 30 minutes before each session and ends at the same time the lights do. This adds for a bit of preload although some is consumed from ambient light during the day. My dropper stays in the green although I do notice it slightly changes shades. The results of tweaking it in this matter has resulted in insane plant growth of which I have to stay on top of daily. Consistent water parameters have also been a benefit. My reds are now rich and vibrant. The little hair algae I had is decreasing as well. I honestly can’t attribute all the benefits to lighting alone tho. I added shrimp and snails, continually manipulate surface plants, adjust bio load and supplement amounts ect depending on what the tank, plants, and inhabitants are displaying.
Honestly, videos like these are my first step in my approach the hobby. I have found that I have been able to avoid many issues if I first approach them with an educated and informed approach.
This channel so dope I'm glad everytime I watch a video. You guys are doing good.
Thanks Irene 👍
Weirdly my light is built into the lid (which is built onto the tank) and has no intensity adjustment. I'll look for a timer, and great tip with the black duct tape! I'll definitely try that! Thanks.
@@mauricematla8379 its quite bright
@@mauricematla8379 just had algae blooms so id like to dial it down a little
*You are awesome, Irene.* THANK YOU
I just try to learn to love it as well 😊
Very informative thank you for your suggestions.
Great video, thank you so much!
I want to see an update about Irene’s shell dwellers!
You have amazing presentation skills. Love your videos and I don't even have fish yet
My 75 is against a wall with 2 windows. For the first 3 months I didn’t have a light at all. Only used sunlight. Went great for me. 😄
My bigvtankbis next to a window (the only place I could put it) and I planted an Amazon sword on the end closest to it. It grew beautifully and blocks a lot of the light. Thankfully, I haven't had any algae issues!
Luckily it was super easy for me. I stopped dosing fertiliser for a few weeks and if the algae stopped growing I know the issue is with ferts. If the algae is still growing I know the issue is with the light
You really do have the very best information, without all the bs. Great job!
However, if you start your tank at 20-40 percent brightness, are the reds, whites, blues and greens all at that the same brightness level?
Also, if you are going to increase the brightness once you realize that you are not getting algae, how do you that? Do you increase all LED colors at once, or do you increase let’s say, only a few colors like reds and whites first?
Thank you and keep up the great videos.
Thank You. I like your information. I've watched a bunch of your videos. as well as Cory's & lots of Bentley .. I have a 20 gallon tall, just like yours so your ratios are pretty close to what works for me. I also have 3" of Eco Complete and the 24" Fluval 3.0. so your numbers there work well for me also. I actually don't have a single plant - yet .. I'm planning to use Easy Green and have had lots of time to research which plants I'm going to get soon .. once I get some plants established and surviving for awhile. I'm planning on getting a co2 Art system & generally doing Bentley's low and slow method .. ps. just my opinion. I do 40% water changes as needed to maintain 15-20 ppm NO3. I find that 1/2 the nitrogen cycle with lots of Matrix bio media & a strong aerobic colony. is much simpler than the REDOX thing and trying to reduce Nitrates without water changes .. my water has lots of minerals & a reasonable KH though. I can understand why you would go that way though. with all the additives & buffering you have to do. not changing all that after you have it under control is probably easier for you ..
Awesome, thanks heaps.......:)
I have the Hygger with 5 bright settings & was using the max until recently, now I'm on the middle setting and much less algae.
The tank @4:35 is Beautiful! I'd love to scape my 125gal similar to that, unfortunately Yoshi my fahaka puffer wouldn't allow it 🙂
Nerite snails❤ Algae Disposals..😄
Would another option be to add more plants to take the nutrients feeding the algae?
Hi , thanks for the video 👍 . I'm trying to keep hyacinths in both of my aquariums . I just got grow lights . They did not do good before . I have only trace amounts of nitrate , nitride and ammonia . Plenty of fish & some other water plants . I think I am on the verge of over feeding in order to get some nutrients for the plants . I'm going to replace the hyacinths with very healthy plants from my outdoor pond since it is close to the weather killing the pond plants and me having 1 try to keep the aquarium plants alive over winter . Is there a simple test I can do to help my chances for me success ? Thanks
Hello, Aquarium Co-oP. Thank for this video. I have been trying for months to decrease the algae growth in my 30 gallon long tank. My percentages are currently set at 65% Red, 65% Green,75% White and 0% Blue based on suggestions, but the algae has not decreased much. You mentioned 20-40 percent is good for low light plants. Is that across all spectrums, red, blue green and white? A response would be greatly appreciated as there is too much conflicting information out there.
Irene ❤
very interesting what if you don't have plants and have south American cichlids in the tank how hours should you have it run for
2:30 - Better avoid mechanical outlet timers, use digital instead. Mechanical are more faulty. I had one which got stuck, so light was on overnight.
Hey! Are you guys stocking your hoodies sometime soon? Need some root tabs and would rather grab everything at once rather than making sepperate orders.
What was the indication you got that the light duration and intensity was correct before just needing 6-8 weeks of weekly water changes?
Hi there , i was looking on the website at the lighting recommendations . my question is what type of measurement is used for say the medium light vs the high light . I supposed im asking what unit of measurement is the most important and what should the minimum of that measurement be for a high light tank . which led colours do you prefer
My aquarium light has a timer but when it's off it's not really off its just extremely dim do you think that would effect plant growth? I think its a hyger from Amazon
I struggled with algae for months then I just stoped turning on my lights my plants are fine with only three or four hours of lights at night and I see no algae anymore. Just keep the lights off all day then around 10 when I get off work till about 1 am the lights are on
I just moved and the last thing I need to do is get my timers going again....well this bit me in the butt ...I left my lights on 3 days in a row wayyyyyy to long because I forgot and now green hair algae everywhere...So yeah....short lighting cycles with timers and try to keep your phosphates down and all should go well✌️💜
🐠🐟🐠🐟
1
Never ever had an algae issue in any tank I've ever had. Even as a beginner. Don't get it
How bout put some siamese algae eater 🤣🤣🤣
Turkhish langue please 🙏
TL;DR You got algae? You are using to much light.
Please make it stop
20-40%? Leds are too bright? Lollllllllll