Something I learned from an old pro ST1300 master - USE THE RIGHT PADS. They are NOT the same on the front and back. One side has slightly thinner pads and using the front sized pads on the back can cause binding. If you buy third party pads, you're likely to get 2 sets of 7mm pads. But if you look in the ST1300 manual, the front are 5mm thick and the rear are 7. The recommendation was to buy Honda OEM parts to be safe.
Txs !! . BTW, I crack the bleeder to push back the piston. The system seals are designed to flow one way and I also always bleed the brakes. The fluid in the caliper gets nasty after years of repeated heat cycles. That's why the first shot that comes out is black and nasty. Love the logic and simplicity of Honda products. Safe rides!
Thank you good sir. Front brakes on my ctx 1300 were slightly different but still this video made the job super easy. I'm a bit jealous of the extra 35 hp the st has with same engine. My ctx1300 is barely faster in a straight line than my cb500x.
Glad you it was helpful, after owning a lot of motorcycles, i now ride a Suzuki Burgman 200 and i really enjoy it, not having to worry about clutch and shifter is great, plus it can do more than 300km with only 10 liters of fuel, i don't miss the power that much
From what I have read, don't remember where the ST has more hp but the CTX has different pistons and different gears and that the CTX is actually faster. Booya !!!
One thing i forgot to do in this video is cleaning the caliper pistons before push them back in to avoid getting dirt past the seal, don't skip this step !
Absoluty. But you can only clean (and grease them with caliper grease) if you take off the clamps... Which is by far the best approach to change brake pads...
Do you just hit them with a good solid spray of brake cleaner? BTW, I watched your video because I now have an ST1300PA and will be performing this kind of maintenance. That's why I'm thrilled with the simple pad replacement.
@Charles Waters Yes. Brake cleaner is where you start off with. After that you might want to use an old toothbrush... You need to make sure the pistons run freely. And trust me, they don't. So, what you need to do is put a thin piece of wood or your old pads in the caliper and pump the pistons with the lever. You will notice one of them will be out faster than the other. Once the first one reaches the brakepad, the other will follow. Now that they are both out, you ad the piston grease. Now push the pistons back by hand. This is sometimes hard to do and this is exactly the reasons the calipers need this maintanance every 10.000km's or ad a pad swap. Make sure you never pump the pistons without one set of brakepads or something else in there. Otherwise they will pop out... I have an example of how to do this in this video ruclips.net/video/Y7pH-S0yq7w/видео.html at 8:29. It's a motorscooter but the idea is the same. You will also notice I use a piston tool to rotate the pistons in their housing to clean them on every side.
The replies are instructional, thanks. I got to wondering what happened to the brake fluid overflow? The Haynes shop manual clearly states not letting a removed wheel rest on the brake disc, so It is hard to imagine how aggressive prying would be of benefit.
I also have the Honda ST1300 2006. I put the brake pad on the back and it was stiff, so I worked on it again because the wheels didn't work well. It's easy to see, but technology doesn't work well when you try it. This is Seoul, South Korea.
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Something I learned from an old pro ST1300 master - USE THE RIGHT PADS. They are NOT the same on the front and back. One side has slightly thinner pads and using the front sized pads on the back can cause binding. If you buy third party pads, you're likely to get 2 sets of 7mm pads. But if you look in the ST1300 manual, the front are 5mm thick and the rear are 7. The recommendation was to buy Honda OEM parts to be safe.
Thank you for the information !
is that the reason why a cannot install the breakpards on my bike, i tried to make a gap i could not insert it.
J'ai rarement vu une vidéo aussi bien faite. C'est clair et simple ! Mathieu, vous êtes un excellent mécanicien vulgarisateur ! Bravo !
Merci c'est très gentil, ça me donne la motivation d'en faire plus , bonne soirée !
Excellent, pour une fois un constructeur à pensé à nous faciliter les petites réparations. Merci pour ton tuto.
Fait plaisir !
Superb explanation without voice. Short and to the point. Thank you 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed !
Txs !! . BTW, I crack the bleeder to push back the piston. The system seals are designed to flow one way and I also always bleed the brakes. The fluid in the caliper gets nasty after years of repeated heat cycles. That's why the first shot that comes out is black and nasty. Love the logic and simplicity of Honda products. Safe rides!
Thank you good sir. Front brakes on my ctx 1300 were slightly different but still this video made the job super easy. I'm a bit jealous of the extra 35 hp the st has with same engine. My ctx1300 is barely faster in a straight line than my cb500x.
Glad you it was helpful, after owning a lot of motorcycles, i now ride a Suzuki Burgman 200 and i really enjoy it, not having to worry about clutch and shifter is great, plus it can do more than 300km with only 10 liters of fuel, i don't miss the power that much
From what I have read, don't remember where the ST has more hp but the CTX has different pistons and different gears and that the CTX is actually faster. Booya !!!
One thing i forgot to do in this video is cleaning the caliper pistons before push them back in to avoid getting dirt past the seal, don't skip this step !
Absoluty. But you can only clean (and grease them with caliper grease) if you take off the clamps... Which is by far the best approach to change brake pads...
Do you just hit them with a good solid spray of brake cleaner? BTW, I watched your video because I now have an ST1300PA and will be performing this kind of maintenance. That's why I'm thrilled with the simple pad replacement.
@Charles Waters Yes. Brake cleaner is where you start off with. After that you might want to use an old toothbrush... You need to make sure the pistons run freely. And trust me, they don't. So, what you need to do is put a thin piece of wood or your old pads in the caliper and pump the pistons with the lever. You will notice one of them will be out faster than the other. Once the first one reaches the brakepad, the other will follow. Now that they are both out, you ad the piston grease. Now push the pistons back by hand. This is sometimes hard to do and this is exactly the reasons the calipers need this maintanance every 10.000km's or ad a pad swap. Make sure you never pump the pistons without one set of brakepads or something else in there. Otherwise they will pop out... I have an example of how to do this in this video ruclips.net/video/Y7pH-S0yq7w/видео.html at 8:29. It's a motorscooter but the idea is the same. You will also notice I use a piston tool to rotate the pistons in their housing to clean them on every side.
That was the first thing that came to my mind, too! Bad practice shown. Also the prybar levering on the discs is a big NO GO!
Whoops
Gracias por un video rapido, sencillo y facil de entender, una imagen vale mas que 1000 palabras
Glad you enjoyed !
That was absolutely amazing! Thank you so much for taking time to make this video. Very very impressive!
Thank you !
Thanks for your video from south Korea 🇰🇷
Thank you for your comment, have a beautiful evening feom Quebec :)
The replies are instructional, thanks. I got to wondering what happened to the brake fluid overflow? The Haynes shop manual clearly states not letting a removed wheel rest on the brake disc, so It is hard to imagine how aggressive prying would be of benefit.
Glad you liked it, brake fluid should drop when pads are worn so adding new pads will make fluid to level again
I also have the Honda ST1300 2006.
I put the brake pad on the back and it was stiff, so I worked on it again because the wheels didn't work well.
It's easy to see, but technology doesn't work well when you try it.
This is Seoul, South Korea.
If the slidder pins are dry / rusted, it will make the caliper hard to move
Great video, helped make this job quick and easy for me. Thank you!
Glad it helped, thanks !
Thankyou. Very grateful for your instruction.
Glad you enjoyed :)
Bien ...bonjour de France.
Bon matin et bien le bonjour du Québec :D
@@MathieuTechMoto merci bonne journée.
Awesome video. Thanks man!
Glad you enjoyed, have a juicy day :D
Great Video my Friend Thank you y have learn 🤗👍👍👍👍👍Reinhard out Germany sorry my Englisch is Not
Thank you , have a marvelous day !
Wow! So easy. So much easier than my car.
That's why i love motorcycles :)
Copper grease?
Recommended !
AHL не лучший вариант колодок.
Сзади колодки должны быть толще,чем перед. И пластинки (холодильники ) родные не надо было выкладывать.
Thanks mate
You're welcome !
Rear brakepads were still quite ok to me.
Yes, this was on my father motorcycle !
you pet things, lol so funny
Brake pads also need love to keep working well
Touching the pads with your hands will leave oils and other contaminants on the pads and rotor.
Thanks for the info
And it will burn off at the first application of the brakes. No issue whatsoever.