I have no idea how I ended up here but I love your no nonsense vocal delivery and concise, detail rich presentation.I also like the use of satire and irony
Anyone that does grimy, hard-to-clean work really should have a bottle of that Pumice stuff. This was a life saver for me, as I do my own automotive maintenance, but had to scrub my hands clean like a surgeon. 👍
Just an idea from an engineer: Use a centrifugal fan to move air through your vent. Also known as a squirrel cage, these fans are designed to move larger volumes of air with a greater pressure differential. This is way the are almost always used in car ventilation and HVAC systems. Basically if you want to move air through a duct you use a squirrel cage fan. (lower velocity but larger mass flow usually means lower noise as well) Not sure what type and style you can get in the UK but they range in price from $5 to 150 depending on size and quality.
A good point well made. These appear to 'grab' the air well, so will give them a chance in a pair. Will report back! I'm never too proud to change things if a mistake has been made.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Its all good. I'm just a dumb desert dwelling aerospace guy so I haven't seen snow in 5 years, have never set foot on an ocean going boat, and really don't know much about airflow under mach 0.9. :-) So you can take my advice with a large grain of salt. However, If I was going to work/live in an "enclosed space" with a hostile environment outside, I would give very careful thought to my heat budget while ensuring I have lots of fresh air. A water tight fiberglass box with two well sealed doors, and a running diesel motor, seems like a Carbon Monoxide death trap to me. I'm not sure what OSHA/NASA/Mil-Std regulations cover this sort of Confined Space. Maybe books.google.com/books?id=adEvdwfc3gUC&pg would help? Anyway, I wouldn't feel safe unless I had a ventilation CFM rating better than 3 minutes to fully exchange the atmosphere (Allen's volume/3 min
More Allan! Yay! I'd definitely suggest putting the fans in the removable panel, since that seems to be the most practical way to maintain access to them. We have that orange pumice goop in the US, too. I've got a gallon bottle that's nearly as old as I am (dad over-purchased) and it's still going strong. Also, the anti-slip coating is sort of reminding me of the black nose paint on the P-51D Mustang. :)
An alternative to acetone for removing sticky stuff, and superior in my estimation, is naptha. I learned about this thinner, which graphic artists used to remove rubber cement, when a magazine publisher in my building went digital and put a case of naptha in the trash and I rescued it. I now use it even on car paint since it evaporates quickly and leaves no residue. Good for softening clear tape bits on metal office desks. It's good to have an arsenal of solvents and I usually try naptha before resorting to more serious chemicals like lacquer thinner. When used indoors the smell is gone very quickly.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals All I can say is that I don't hesitate to use it on my vehicles' paint when automotive cleaners aren't working, and it hasn't hurt anything yet, possibly because it's gone so fast; so definitely worth trying in an obscure place first. I start with a paper towel and if I need something with more bite, move to terry cloth or melamine sponge. The best use I've found is removing those hateful stickers from plastic products like pipe fittings, stemware and plates, which do turn dull with other solvents.
The final shot of Alan with the rubber glove hanging down looks like an homage to Mad Max - "Cundalini wants his hand back" even the colour and proportions of Alan is reminiscent of Max's Sandman
I have used 2 computer fans in my tiny travel trailer. I performed the calculation of total volume and fan displacement per minute resulting in 3.5 minutes to completely turn over the air. In actuality I found it totally inadequate. The air turnover never came close to the calculation. If you want dependable air flow you may want to consider a boat bilge fan. They move a lot of air and are safe for combustible air.
So what are the expected thermals on that exhaust vent? Not sure that (looks like a PC fan) exhaust fan (noted to have twin in the future) will hold up under potential peak thermals. The pliable 90 degree elbow might also require a “hose clamp” or two at each connection; as “it will most certainly” (I believe your channel speak is entering my subconscious vocabulary) become more pliable with heat and potentially lose its hold. Looking good, keeping me entertained with your ideas and those of other gawkers of your channel. Enjoying the progress and updates.
The temps will be pretty tame. On sea trials the temp of the exhaust lagging at the stern was only 35deg C, and the constant throughput of air will avoid a 'pooling' of heat. The fans are IP68 industrial fans, and rated to over 70deg constant. They aren't computer fans.
Im curious, did you consider adding metal ducting and a heat exchanger to recapture exhaust heat in the main cabin like the sort they have for wood stoves? I think i read that they do that for some antarctic vehicles, but maybe alan's exhaust isn't hot enough to make it worthwhile?
It's unlikely to be helpful on Alan, since when the engine is running, we'll be underway and not in the super-cold temps. When in extreme cold, we'll be using a diesel stove.
Is there a compensating/ventilator port for the extraction system? Once it's turned on it will be removing air from the cabin that needs to be replaced by the same amount it is removing otherwise the fans will just 'cavitate' (for want of a better word). I suppose there is - I can't imagine 55 sweaty seamen, sorry seapersons in a force 10 gale having just survived a life and death incident at sea being able to travel in a certified lifeboat that then efficiently kills them like the Helios air disaster.
On the vent position question you did not consider one other option. In stead of running the long rectangular vent duct conduit straight down vertically you could rotate it slightly CC to a angle and have it land directly over the engin bay area.
Quite right James - there are some large undulations on the insulation though as the fibreglass below isn't flat. Although, I'd like to use that large space to the right for other things like signage or net storage.
Is Alan's engine air intake inside the engine enclosure or ducted from somewhere else? If the engine air intake is in the engine enclosure you need to consider the engine as a huge air pump with suction from it's intake and exhaust at it's, um, exhaust. This creates a negative pressure in the engine box that those small electric fans will not be able to overcome. Lets assume the engine is 1.3L with a maximum speed of 3600rpm and has a volumetric efficiency of 3 (for turbo). That means the engine consumes 248CFM of air which is much more than the two small electric fans can compete with. If the fans are to vent the enclosure when the engine is not running that's a different thing (although if air is drawn down the duct in the opposite direction the fans will most likely windmill and their bearings may not be designed for that and may suffer premature failure.
Thanks Grant. Yes, I'm looking at the various options for the air being drawn into the engine bay, and perhaps separately, into the air intake attached to the turbo. It may well be that there's a baffled, open vent at the opposite end of the bay, to create a through-draft, but I'll need to consider impact on noise reduction. For the vent, I'll need a feather-light shutter to avoid down draught against the fans. A work in progress.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals If you duct the engine air intake from somewhere else (thus removing the existing engine compartment ventilation via the combustion chambers) make sure whatever you replace the engine compartment ventilation with is fit for purpose. Having spent time in enclosed lifeboats while I was in the merchant navy I wish you the very best (and totally understand the desire to seal and acoustically insulate the engine cover)
You mentioned values on the extraction system to keep moisture out; That seems like a good idea to me, but if you go that route don't forget the intake (if external) and exhaust are potential moisture inlets are well. Now that I mention it, I can't remember if you've shown how the exhaust is routed. Does it come out above or below the waterline? Thanks for the great content, as always.
Thanks for the input. It's a dry exhaust. There can certainly be humidity or dampness in the engine bay from misc sources, but hopefully not in substantial quantities. My concern is ensuring sea spray can't find its way in.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals you also mentioned using xylene thinners with a poxy based paints, are they compatible? I was under the impression it was only compatible with single pak paints .
I’m not sure if your fans are static pressure or high airflow but after years of building PCs, I can almost confidently say they may not work for that application. I could be wrong though! But you’ll want to make sure they’re AF fans, not SP.
Thanks - I've tested a number from this range and they push the air very effectively. This one in particular grabs the air better than a larger one with flatter blades. Although they look like cheap computer fans, they are pricey, IP68 sealed industrial fans.
I think you'd need some pretty clever ducting to allow hot/dirty air in the bay enter the exhaust pipe without getting all the fumes from the engine coming back at you.
What if the plastic pipe gets totally smashed somehow, can you reroute the exhaust? seems like a big problem if it is damaged and you cant reliably prevent exhaust leaking in the living quarters.
Why do you use sugar soap? What are the merits of using it over general soap? Furthermore have you considered using 3D printed parts for the more unieke parts of Alan?
It's a bit of a misnomer. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sugar_soap 3D printing - perhaps if I come across something that needs it. So far getting by ok with metal and composites.
![Lifeboat Conversion Ep28: Installing bicolour navigation safety lights & battery system update [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NvpPdS7SYxc/mqdefault.jpg)
![Lifeboat Conversion Ep28: Installing bicolour navigation safety lights & battery system update [4K]](/img/tr.png)
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
![Shetland RNLI offshore lifeboat rescues expedition lifeboat. 'Alan' heads north LEG 6 pt2 Ep134 [4K]](/img/1.gif)
I have no idea how I ended up here but I love your no nonsense vocal delivery and concise, detail rich presentation.I also like the use of satire and irony
How kind!
RIP Orbi the orbital sander you will not be forgotten for your great service to this channel.
Anyone that does grimy, hard-to-clean work really should have a bottle of that Pumice stuff. This was a life saver for me, as I do my own automotive maintenance, but had to scrub my hands clean like a surgeon. 👍
You can get scented ones as well. The workshop I worked in always used lemon.
Just an idea from an engineer: Use a centrifugal fan to move air through your vent. Also known as a squirrel cage, these fans are designed to move larger volumes of air with a greater pressure differential. This is way the are almost always used in car ventilation and HVAC systems. Basically if you want to move air through a duct you use a squirrel cage fan. (lower velocity but larger mass flow usually means lower noise as well) Not sure what type and style you can get in the UK but they range in price from $5 to 150 depending on size and quality.
A good point well made. These appear to 'grab' the air well, so will give them a chance in a pair. Will report back! I'm never too proud to change things if a mistake has been made.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Its all good. I'm just a dumb desert dwelling aerospace guy so I haven't seen snow in 5 years, have never set foot on an ocean going boat, and really don't know much about airflow under mach 0.9. :-) So you can take my advice with a large grain of salt. However, If I was going to work/live in an "enclosed space" with a hostile environment outside, I would give very careful thought to my heat budget while ensuring I have lots of fresh air. A water tight fiberglass box with two well sealed doors, and a running diesel motor, seems like a Carbon Monoxide death trap to me. I'm not sure what OSHA/NASA/Mil-Std regulations cover this sort of Confined Space. Maybe books.google.com/books?id=adEvdwfc3gUC&pg would help? Anyway, I wouldn't feel safe unless I had a ventilation CFM rating better than 3 minutes to fully exchange the atmosphere (Allen's volume/3 min
Finally! My life hasn’t been complete without a new video.
I find that naphtha takes off tape residue very well…..and doesn’t dull finish.
More Allan! Yay!
I'd definitely suggest putting the fans in the removable panel, since that seems to be the most practical way to maintain access to them.
We have that orange pumice goop in the US, too. I've got a gallon bottle that's nearly as old as I am (dad over-purchased) and it's still going strong.
Also, the anti-slip coating is sort of reminding me of the black nose paint on the P-51D Mustang. :)
Just bought Polar Eskimo on Amazon, what a great book. Thank You for sharing your experiences.
You're welcome Tim! Do leave a review if you can...
@@AlexHibbertOriginals seeing I read it non stop over the weekend, happy to do so.
The "Anti-Slip" Drinking Game!
Another rivetting episode! The hand-sanding especially. MOAR PLS!
Outstanding as ever
Cheers
RIP orbital 😢. Nice job. 👍👍
An alternative to acetone for removing sticky stuff, and superior in my estimation, is naptha. I learned about this thinner, which graphic artists used to remove rubber cement, when a magazine publisher in my building went digital and put a case of naptha in the trash and I rescued it. I now use it even on car paint since it evaporates quickly and leaves no residue. Good for softening clear tape bits on metal office desks. It's good to have an arsenal of solvents and I usually try naptha before resorting to more serious chemicals like lacquer thinner. When used indoors the smell is gone very quickly.
Ah yes - it's actually the stove fuel I use lots of. I usually view it as a 'clean' petrol/gasoline. Does it eat at high gloss paints?
@@AlexHibbertOriginals All I can say is that I don't hesitate to use it on my vehicles' paint when automotive cleaners aren't working, and it hasn't hurt anything yet, possibly because it's gone so fast; so definitely worth trying in an obscure place first. I start with a paper towel and if I need something with more bite, move to terry cloth or melamine sponge. The best use I've found is removing those hateful stickers from plastic products like pipe fittings, stemware and plates, which do turn dull with other solvents.
The final shot of Alan with the rubber glove hanging down looks like an homage to Mad Max - "Cundalini wants his hand back" even the colour and proportions of Alan is reminiscent of Max's Sandman
I have used 2 computer fans in my tiny travel trailer. I performed the calculation of total volume and fan displacement per minute resulting in 3.5 minutes to completely turn over the air. In actuality I found it totally inadequate. The air turnover never came close to the calculation. If you want dependable air flow you may want to consider a boat bilge fan. They move a lot of air and are safe for combustible air.
I actually had a few bilge fans. They were deafening, and handled variable speeds very poorly.
I've been missing these videos :)
So what are the expected thermals on that exhaust vent? Not sure that (looks like a PC fan) exhaust fan (noted to have twin in the future) will hold up under potential peak thermals. The pliable 90 degree elbow might also require a “hose clamp” or two at each connection; as “it will most certainly” (I believe your channel speak is entering my subconscious vocabulary) become more pliable with heat and potentially lose its hold. Looking good, keeping me entertained with your ideas and those of other gawkers of your channel. Enjoying the progress and updates.
The temps will be pretty tame. On sea trials the temp of the exhaust lagging at the stern was only 35deg C, and the constant throughput of air will avoid a 'pooling' of heat. The fans are IP68 industrial fans, and rated to over 70deg constant. They aren't computer fans.
Im curious, did you consider adding metal ducting and a heat exchanger to recapture exhaust heat in the main cabin like the sort they have for wood stoves? I think i read that they do that for some antarctic vehicles, but maybe alan's exhaust isn't hot enough to make it worthwhile?
It's unlikely to be helpful on Alan, since when the engine is running, we'll be underway and not in the super-cold temps. When in extreme cold, we'll be using a diesel stove.
Surely you'd want a centrifugal fan instead, a blower type to overcome the duct resistance and move a decent amount of air?
Nice work
This is a good vehicle for the incoming Polar Shifting... the last one was with Noah's flood.
I'm sorry if i get this wrong but is there going to be exaust going through that pipe. Because if so, please watch out that it could melt the plastic.
No, just the air from the engine bay. The dry exhaust gas exits via the exhaust pipe on the stern, below the rubber fender strip.
Is there a compensating/ventilator port for the extraction system? Once it's turned on it will be removing air from the cabin that needs to be replaced by the same amount it is removing otherwise the fans will just 'cavitate' (for want of a better word).
I suppose there is - I can't imagine 55 sweaty seamen, sorry seapersons in a force 10 gale having just survived a life and death incident at sea being able to travel in a certified lifeboat that then efficiently kills them like the Helios air disaster.
I've just replied to Grant's near identical comment on this. Come back to me if you can't find it and I'll copy and paste!
Who gave this a thumbs down? 😒.
How dare they! Never mind Alan 😘, you're perfect. I'm sure it was directed at that Alex bloke 😂.
All the downward thumbs ARE aimed at me - which is right and proper.
What’s the updated timeline for Alan to be released into the icy northern wilds? Per your current plan.
I'd like to get Alan acquainted with ice next autumn. No guarantees.
On the vent position question you did not consider one other option. In stead of running the long rectangular vent duct conduit straight down vertically you could rotate it slightly CC to a angle and have it land directly over the engin bay area.
Quite right James - there are some large undulations on the insulation though as the fibreglass below isn't flat. Although, I'd like to use that large space to the right for other things like signage or net storage.
Hi, you mentioned a closure in the exhaust duct, May i suggest a toilet Rat flap, its quite cheap and watertight from one Side.
It'll need a very., very light back draught shutter.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Maybe you try a backdraft shutter for an Extractor Hood?
Keep up the good work 👍 I love your videos... please keep them coming 😁
Use the vacuum attachment. Less clogging and more cooling.
AMAZINGNES!!!
Is Alan's engine air intake inside the engine enclosure or ducted from somewhere else? If the engine air intake is in the engine enclosure you need to consider the engine as a huge air pump with suction from it's intake and exhaust at it's, um, exhaust. This creates a negative pressure in the engine box that those small electric fans will not be able to overcome. Lets assume the engine is 1.3L with a maximum speed of 3600rpm and has a volumetric efficiency of 3 (for turbo). That means the engine consumes 248CFM of air which is much more than the two small electric fans can compete with. If the fans are to vent the enclosure when the engine is not running that's a different thing (although if air is drawn down the duct in the opposite direction the fans will most likely windmill and their bearings may not be designed for that and may suffer premature failure.
Thanks Grant. Yes, I'm looking at the various options for the air being drawn into the engine bay, and perhaps separately, into the air intake attached to the turbo. It may well be that there's a baffled, open vent at the opposite end of the bay, to create a through-draft, but I'll need to consider impact on noise reduction.
For the vent, I'll need a feather-light shutter to avoid down draught against the fans.
A work in progress.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals If you duct the engine air intake from somewhere else (thus removing the existing engine compartment ventilation via the combustion chambers) make sure whatever you replace the engine compartment ventilation with is fit for purpose.
Having spent time in enclosed lifeboats while I was in the merchant navy I wish you the very best (and totally understand the desire to seal and acoustically insulate the engine cover)
You mentioned values on the extraction system to keep moisture out; That seems like a good idea to me, but if you go that route don't forget the intake (if external) and exhaust are potential moisture inlets are well.
Now that I mention it, I can't remember if you've shown how the exhaust is routed. Does it come out above or below the waterline?
Thanks for the great content, as always.
Thanks for the input. It's a dry exhaust. There can certainly be humidity or dampness in the engine bay from misc sources, but hopefully not in substantial quantities. My concern is ensuring sea spray can't find its way in.
Appreciate the link for the epoxy primer paint, that site seems to be half the price of say international, hemple or alexseal !
Yes, I've been happy with their own brand. Also, a good place to get Jotun.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals you also mentioned using xylene thinners with a poxy based paints, are they compatible? I was under the impression it was only compatible with single pak paints .
I’m not sure if your fans are static pressure or high airflow but after years of building PCs, I can almost confidently say they may not work for that application. I could be wrong though! But you’ll want to make sure they’re AF fans, not SP.
Thanks - I've tested a number from this range and they push the air very effectively. This one in particular grabs the air better than a larger one with flatter blades. Although they look like cheap computer fans, they are pricey, IP68 sealed industrial fans.
Still think your'e as mad as a box of frogs but i do like Alan.
Instead of letting exhaust pool in the compartment and then bent it, wouldn't it be simpler to connect the bent directly to the engine exhaust?
I think you'd need some pretty clever ducting to allow hot/dirty air in the bay enter the exhaust pipe without getting all the fumes from the engine coming back at you.
What if the plastic pipe gets totally smashed somehow, can you reroute the exhaust? seems like a big problem if it is damaged and you cant reliably prevent exhaust leaking in the living quarters.
Remember this isn't the exhaust pipe. It's just a vent from the engine bay.
Hey alex! Why not using a 3D printer to create some custom equipment for Alan?
Well, I don't have one. And most things I've found I can make from other things. Not saying never though.
every time you redirect (turn) a flow of air you reduce the ease of the flow?
Certainly do. Using smooth walls, and gradual turns etc can help minimise the loss.
Maybe I'm getting this wrong, but are you going to vent hot air through plastic tubes?
Mildly warm air.
Why do you use sugar soap? What are the merits of using it over general soap? Furthermore have you considered using 3D printed parts for the more unieke parts of Alan?
It's a bit of a misnomer. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sugar_soap
3D printing - perhaps if I come across something that needs it. So far getting by ok with metal and composites.
More cubby hole space is always better. :D
RIP, trusty Ozita orbital sander. lol.
Air tight engine compartment, would mean the fans wont be moving anything, unless you plan on having an inlet and exhaust
The compartment won't be airtight.
Wasn't the engine already vented?
It has a dry exhaust, but the bay isn't vented, no. It's just open.
👍👍
I think people are confusing engine exhaust gasses and stale hot cabin air.
I think so too
No angle grinder:/
that little fan wont work, a drought coming from outside will deliver more fresh air
True. Check out the latest episode :)
I wonder if anyone else lost the game after watching this...