Piece of advice for filling the rest of those holes... Put the resin in a plastic baggie, tie it off, and cut one corner off of the bag so you can use the bag like you're icing a cake and squeeze the resin out into the holes instead of scooping it and trying to drip it in there.
@@Steve-Debs That definitely works too! Although I don't know how easy or not it would be for them to access one... I'm sure they can probably order something like that online though. But the baggie idea is super cheap, you can get them pretty much anywhere, and you don't have to clean it afterward, you can just throw it away when you're done.
piece of advice: just don't drill random holes in your boat, certainly not holes that big, when you don't have to! This channel's turning into a comedy.
I enjoy your videos immensely, no matter what you're doing. I'm in awe of your skill levels and dedication to quality. I'm looking forward to seeing UMA launched again whenever it is.
We enjoy your refreshing vids... and taking a needed break from all unending noise/static about politics and wars. Last night we fixed a big pot of chili then allowed it to cool off to steep overnight to enhance the flavor. Today while peacefully enjoy a brisk fall weekend, we'll enjoy a bowl or two or three as we binge watch Sailing Uma... just might end up making it a 2'fer with a repeat on Sunday. Cheers!
50 years ago when I built boats in Spain, we would use chopped up glass fibre as filler in just those locations . not load bearing it was just to join and then deny water access
We had an Inerga Puma 23, built in Spain 50 years ago and the skeg would fill with water, and pour out if you drilled a hole in it. The water would also leak into the boat from the skeg. Had it professionally repaired by a large company, but it was badly done. 10 years later we cut out large parts of the skeg with an angle grinder. Filled it with fiberglass and it never leaked again.
Love watching you guys work on Uma. Seeing the "guts" of an old boat built by a reputable US builder is quite eye opening. I used to live on a Morgan OI36 and was constantly amazed at the poor workmanship I would find, then even more surprised when I would run across something really well done.
Use a bucket with white vinegar for epoxy rollers, squeegees & tools to keep them clean... white vinegar is a safe cleaner for epoxy as well as alcohol....best to limit your contact with acetone as much as possible.
Isn't it a problem to use an epoxy brush that is soaked with vinegar? Even if you let it fully dry, i bet the vinegar will leave some residue. Acetone and alcohol fully evaporates.
I've said it before and I'll keep saying it. This is a rebuild/redesign for a 50 year old boat that you will be making almost 100% water-tight. Once finished, Yuba can be hit by a torpedo, and you'd just have to close off the section with the hole till you get to shore and lift it out of the water. Yeah, I know but damn, that is going to be a solid boat for at least another 50 years.
This may be the best refit done by anyone, anywhere! Refit is not even the right term, a complete rebuild is more like it. Loving how much I am learning here....
The “filler” in the skeg is GRP mulch. A slurry of resin and chop strand mixed in a bucket and poured into inaccessible cavities, the rest is polyurethane foam.
Out of interest, do you happen to know if "Liquid Transom" is a viable solution for replacing water-damaged keel or skeg core? I am guessing that its quite dense and solid once set so should act (slightly) more like ballast than the original foam in the keel? I would also guess that it might give a stronger accidental beach-damage resistance if you hit some coral, than the original foam filled keel?
My 1972 Hughes 38, has the same rudder design, skeg bronze shoe etc. I removed mine when I found the stock was moving very slightly inside the blade. I slit the GRP down either side of the blade adjacent to the stock and removed the “cap” exposing the front of the stock. I was then able to lift the stock away from the blade. The stainless pins were simply a tap fit into the stock. I managed to pull the pins out of the blade. I got the pins welded into the stock, before reassembling. The blade was super heavy, almost all GRP. With just a token amount of balsa core in the middle.
I look forward to these videos each week. You guys are the best. Thank you for going against the grain and doing something different than other sailing channels are doing (buying a bigger boat).
Oof, the water running out of the skeg gave me flashbacks to Sailing Seabird's horrific problem with their water-logged keel. Uma doesn't look to have the delamination problems Seabird did, thankfully, so here's hoping everything stays nice and dry. 🤞
Hey Dan, you could put it in a state of vacuum. I’m not exactly sure how to do that but it will extract all of the moisture within the skeg. Whenever you create a vacuum water boils. It will continue to boil until there isn’t anything left of it. A vacuum bag with something to hold it away from the surface will do the trick. I would put under vacuum for at least two days. That should be plenty of time to extract every bit of it. You could wrap the skeg in burlap about a half inch thick and then put it in a bag with a vacuum pump. The old shop vac will not be strong enough or durable enough to run for a couple of days. A small pump like the type used in air conditioning repair will work perfectly. It can run for a very long time without any problems. Just an idea from an old engineer. Best Regards, from Your Pal Al
Once you get the foam out and the skeg is dry. I recommend using epoxy foam, it does not get wet. Even so called closed cell Polyurethane foam will absorb water after a time. A good epoxy foam is made by Sicomin.
Flat heads are horrible in most applications. But for exactly what you did, they are really useful. You were able to remove the junk for the slot, and use it. Imagine a Phillips or a torqs. You wouldn't be able to clean out. If you are going to coat the bolt or it's going to get covered over time, slot head are the best. They are generally not reusable though.
Those bolts are bronze. They should be reusable. I re-used 300 M8 316 stainless steel bolts when I replaced my aluminium toerail. They were in perfect condition after being installed on the old toerail for 44 years. Slot heads are great
If you want to see and copy a unique solution for limited holes in the deck look at The Duracell Project and how Matt is doing his life line Stanchions.. I think he epoxies a long solid glass rod into the deck and puts a sleeved stanchion over it. All sealed and no screws.
I watch another sailing blog and they have been rebuilding their Ocean-going vessel (quite a bit different than yours Cape George Cutter 36) but has been interesting seeing what issues you both deal with. Between the two of you, I feel like I am living in a boat yard! Because the boats are different, has been an education. He is a master boat builder, but you clearly could be as well as you are so knowledgeable. I am so impressed at how you two work so well together. Kika is very intelligent knows the boat as you do. Can't wait until you splash the boat again. I also enjoy your travel on land episodes in your off-road vehicle. Been awhile for that.
When I restored my 1925 house it took a full year to complete. Every day after work and every weekend. It reminds me of this job. Just non stop until it’s done. One funny thing I did was when I tried to sand all the interior trim work around the doors and baseboards the old paint would just gum up my sander in seconds. My solution was to pull them off and flip them over where there was bare fresh wood. Then sand and paint. I cannot tell you how many stressful discoveries I found like you have experienced. I did find 1932 Times Picayune newspapers wrapped around pipes! That was an interesting read. Keep up the great work and you’ll finally get to the end. Then the dreaded punch list of small things to do gets started that takes forever before you can say Done. Cest Bon!
Hey there , sorry about the water in the wrong places but glad to know y’all will get her fixed correctly. That wind could raise a three story kite. Loved the pun.
“There’s a gust (ghost?) in the rudder.” At 4:07 the pulley shows a sort of emoji-ed frown/scream face with the wide downturned mouth and perfectly placed eyes. The serendipity of good art.
Flat-heads are great for surfaces which become painted or otherwise fouled. If you replaced that with a hex or Torx head, if the paint got in, you'd never get it out, particularly if it were submerged and you couldn't use a solvent. As you just demonstrated, it was easy enough to hammer out the paint with a flat-head screwdriver. Do lightly wire brush both the screw's threads as well as the threaded hole into which it sits. You want metal-metal contact, not metal-junk contact. Don't sand down either the brass or the screw's head. Use a scraper for the upper layers of paint only, then a solvent to remove the rest. Perhaps they didn't use a foam core as they wanted a solid, heavy rudder. Foam cores tend to delaminate under cyclical stress. Yes, you definitely need to gut and redo the foam and/or filler in your skeg. If the epoxy/glass amalgam is solid, leaf it, but definitely use the old screwdriver test: If you can easily dig it out with a flat head screwdriver, then it ain't solid and needs to be replaced.
You can probably get a couple tanks of extra dry air from a welding supply and blow that through the deck joint to dry it out. Just a very low flow for a day would probably.almost all of the moisture out.
A welcoming and pleasant surprise on the rudder. Some suggestions for deck hole filling: piping bag or appropriately sized syringe. DOE/FMEA - Desiign of experiments and Failure Mode Effects Analysis: Avoiding water peneration and condensation.
Always worth sealing the top of the rudder in way of the shaft . Eg Sikafkex in a groove As you of course know, the typical failure problem with welded rudder sticks is water ingress down the shaft to the welds on the tangs, where the low oxygen salty water now attacks the stainless tang welds … I think I would do at least one 20mm slit cut down in line with a tang weld and verify /have a look inside! More work but long term . Also(!) you might create a 15mm borehole right thru the trailing edge . If ever you have a steering problem in future , it is that much easier to thread a warp through the borehole and regain control of the rudder .. Great job guys, as ever. Just be grateful you don’t have one of the Pearson aluminium shafted rudders- now they are ‘ interesting ‘ !
You might consider enlarging the crack near the rudders post and checking for rust. I'm certain you already know this better than I but I've been reading and learning a lot about boat maintenance recently. From what I gather the con of stainless is that it rusts and corrodes where it can't get air. Some of the rudders that fall off the exposed post is fine. It's the part of the post fiberglassed in that corroded away. Those weren't skeg hung but still. Maybe check it out. Perhaps there is some kind of sensor?
Little tip about your resined fin rollers: you can actually burn the resin with a heat gun and your rollers will be as new... I have tried it with epoxy, not sure about vinylester or polyester, though...
Skeg on my P36 is empty sump 14" or so deep then glass and slurry from there down to the bottom. Always a collector of whatever might come in around the rudder stock if the packing gland wasn't tight. But the skeg and rudder are rock solid after 50 years.
If there is metal reinforcement inside rudder and skeg then be warned that they may not be that solid. It's almost impossible to get a bond between stainless steel and FRP as nothing really sticks to stainless and the plastic and stainless expend and contract at different rates. This means there is almost always high moisture inside the rudder between the stainless and the FRP. Stainless is very poor underwater and will suffer in poor aeration with stress corrosion, crevice corrosion and crack corrosion. The stainless steel you can see always looks good as it has good oxygenation. I have seen many rudders that looked great from outside with the stainless inside almost completely corroded away in parts.
The best way I found to dig out the inside of holes with core, is to take a nail and bend it in half. Put it into a drill and dig out the core and vacuum the holes.
If your fin rollers are metal, you can resurrect them by pouring acetone into a metal can, with a small hole on the side just above the acetone lever, light the acetone and hang the rollers over the edge of the can and the resin will burn off. Or use a butane torch.
nice progress you made. and you are right in one thing. If the water is calm and no tide, you only have pulls to the side of a clite. But the most time you will use the clits in choppy water and the boat goes in all directions. so also the forces will go in all directions so also up and down ;-) but even when you have tides and calm water you will have a lot of forces in all directions. but to be honest, I saw where you came from to make this assumtion :D
Just a thought, drain your air compressor, moisture from the environment gets trapped in pressure system, add a dry filter , if not you will adding moisture other by the rain
To drain the water out off the rudder: let the most off it come out with the force off gravity for a day off 3 ,then close all the holes,make one on the bottom ,make an circular patch appr.2 cm thick,round appr.5 cm with in the middle an nipple (to mount the tube for the vacuumpomp) glue it above the hole,buy an cheap vacuumpomp ( with an vacuumchamber for example the vevor ,cost 100 dollar for the entire set) modify the vacuumchamber so that the extracted water goes first in the chamber ,so not in the pump.( easy with an extra nipple on the cover) Let it pump ,the first days lots will come out,after two weeks dripping,you can put a cheap moisture meter in the vacuumchamber to monitor the humidity when dripping has stops.when the moisture level goes down to 30 % put an compressor on the tube…try if possible to put the rudder under water and look for undidected holes ….. Ps you will be surprised how much water is coming out after the natural dripping has stops and you thought it is dry within,with the vacuumpump
An old fiberglassers trick to clean finned rollers is to light them on fire with a propane torch. Do this outside with nothing flammable close by. The resin will burn off and just leave a black film. You use the propane torch because you have to relight them to get all the resin inside the roller.
50 year old glass boats were tbick and solid. I had a 50+ year old glass boat built on the us west coast. It was crazy thick, to the point it was hard to get bronze fititngs that went through. Mold was used for almost 20 years and the new versions floated near 8 inches higher...
Hey Guys, Just a thought …maybe some weep holes in designated points to allow water the ability to run out rather than getting trapped in the channel / deck / hull joint.. Again just a thought ..don’t want you guys to have an issue down the road with water getting trapped in that void. Love your stuff.. keep up the great work, always amazing!! Thanks Mark
My motor sailer was 6mm steel. Testing the thickness was very easy with a meter. In Tasmania and fiordland NZ we sailed uncharted waters a bumped rocks. Glass boats better performance but not good for impacts.
deck screws with a void below and between them .... inject resin in there until it comes out the other holes ! Resin is not water soluble so it'll displace it, for good !
At the end of the episode, you were talking about G10 fiberglass & how you can tap threads into it. So, I'm wondering if you could helicoil those threads so that, instead of relying on glass to hold bolts, your now relying on stainless steel embedded in glass. Maybe, along with strengthening the glass, you can also remove and install bolts without tearing up the glass because the coil is taking the beating... maybe? Another solution is using threadnuts or rivnuts. As ACMX, in school we were taught basic fiberglass layup and repairs. One repair was fixing a pulled out bolt. You encase the rivnut/threadnut in resin where you want a bolt...just a few thoughts 😊
Are you planning on putting a water tight bulkhead forward of the quadrant? You are going threw all this to make it basically a bullet proof ship so making the rudder bullet proof by enclosing it in its own area incase it gets hit and rips it off makes it so the boat wont sink.
Hey- great job you two! I'm doing the very same kind of work on my Pacific Seacraft Orion as the rudder had water in it - an all too common thing. But in contrast to the title of your video, your rudder had NO water in it. The bottom piece attaching the rudder to your skeg is a gudgeon. In older boats maganese bronze was often used so switch to silicon bronze if your can as that will degrade in sea water over time. Definitely replace the bolts with silicon bronze.
If it was me, I would be cutting that skeg off and making a spade rudder with a carbon or pultruded FRP stock. The engineering for a spade rudder is simple and its relatively easy to make a rudder that will take the ground or withstand almost any collision that you want it to. The spade rudder stock on my boat is 200mm diameter of pultruded glass and its designed to take grounding and collision right up to the point where its in danger if ripping the stern off. It also has a weak point built in about half way down the blade. The bottom (hull) bearing stock seal is above the waterline and there is a watertight bulkhead forward off the rudder.
If it was me considering all the work you have already done to the boat, I'd think about just trimming that skeg off the boat, glassing her fair, then building a big heavy duty spade rudder and put a safety skeg that goes from the bottom of the keel back to the rudder post like Bob Perry has done on his new Carbon Cutters. This would give you a more balanced helm that was easier to manage and steer, as well it would give you far more rudder authority not only in ahead, but astern making the boat much easier to back up. This would also have the added benefit of if you run over a fishing net or a line it will do more to hold it down under the boat rather than letting it get wrapped up in your sail drive. It will also do a better job of protecting the rudder in the event of a grounding. Also while G-10 is amazing, I have been making my own just laminating several layers of fiberglass into a sheet and doing this have had good luck drilling and tapping it.
You guys are so kool. 👍🤷🏻♀️I don’t know what else to say. 🤷🏻♀️ I like watching you two very much. Theirs others too, so don’t go getting big heads. 😹 You’re my family 😢. From a distance and so safe too! 😅
Make your own G10! You have plenty of scraps of glass and the skills to do it. Even crappy glass and chop strand has more than enough shear and compressive strength for being a backing plate. Certainly it's a better material than plywood which is frequently used and still has a decent service life as long as it's not wet all the time. The middle layers can be scraps and chop, just finish the top and bottom layers with a non-overlapped layer of 1708. Also, FYI Heli-Coil makes inserts in different materials including stainless and monel that you could use in a blind hole and not get condensation on the interior.
You can't make your own G-10. G-10 is pressed and heat treated to make it what it is. Just laying up some layers of glass isn't even close to the same.
I just picked up one of those moisture meters for measuring moisture in the walls of our RV. I wonder if that would work on your sailboat for a measuring moisture behind the wall or the deck?
Hanse changed to Sekaflexing on their windows around 2008, after about 5 years they started to falloff all their yachts. Must have cost a fortune, as they ended up fixing them under warranty.
To keep from bolting cleats to the deck you could imbed some silicon bronze bar in the deck & then drill & tap it. Make the deck extra thick under it & don't drill all the way through. Use silicon bronze screws with it & bronze cleats. That way you avoid galvanic corrosion. It's pretty old school going bronze but a whole lot of those fitting from the early 20th century are still around long after the boats they were on rotted away.
Try walk around in your new cockpit, and enjoy the enormous amount of space you got now. The right solution for a boat your size, is a tiller. Look for pictures of different boat types that exist, both with tiller and wheel options, and you will se how much space the wheel option steals from you. I had a Najad 320 with a tiller, but looked at some with the wheel option and it just didn´t make any sense. And again; look at the Najad way in terms of the fixed glas front of the sprayhood. I had all my instruments in there, together with the autopilot control. So it was always a very nice place to be, when saling, with a clear view forward.
Indeed. My Dufour 35 is also tiller steered (one reason I bought her) and I compared her cockpît to wheel steerd ones. Tiller is so much better. It's basically one less person in the cockpit. KISS
Next time your are having to fill a bunch of holes with epoxy you might want to try using a piping bag(the kind used by pastry chefs). They make reusable silicone pipping bags(which epoxy doesn't stick to for the most part) or you can buy tipples disposable ones. Depending on how "thick" the epoxy is, you might be able to also use the pipping bag when doing fillets. Claire Saffitz is a pastry chef(I recommend trying her sourdough donuts) and she has some RUclips vids with tips on how to use a piping bag.
5:51 I have ball bearings and a shaft seal around the shaft between the rudder and its rudder tube. Also I have a grease cup or grease fitting screwed onto the rudder tube, filled with grease that can be screwed inward so the grease is pushed into the tube, lubricating the shaft and preventing it from rusting... The cup can be screwed inwards from time to time, or refilled if needed. Your boat doesn't have this?
Kika, you need to put a prefilter in that filter of the 3M mask for particuls ... you save much money in organic vapor filters that you use for epoxy resin ! Big kiss ❤
Put a piece of tape on the drill bit the distance you want to put it through the deck so you have a reference point of how far to go. Good trick I learned in the boatyard.
@@ernest795 You can get metal collars to attach to the bit in place of the tape the risk of the flutes getting snagged and punching too deeply before you know it.
Piece of advice for filling the rest of those holes... Put the resin in a plastic baggie, tie it off, and cut one corner off of the bag so you can use the bag like you're icing a cake and squeeze the resin out into the holes instead of scooping it and trying to drip it in there.
We used a large syringe we got from a vets, without the push on needle. Easy to clean.
@@Steve-Debs That definitely works too! Although I don't know how easy or not it would be for them to access one... I'm sure they can probably order something like that online though. But the baggie idea is super cheap, you can get them pretty much anywhere, and you don't have to clean it afterward, you can just throw it away when you're done.
piece of advice: just don't drill random holes in your boat, certainly not holes that big, when you don't have to! This channel's turning into a comedy.
@@junkname9983easy tiger. Be kind. Always.
I enjoy your videos immensely, no matter what you're doing. I'm in awe of your skill levels and dedication to quality. I'm looking forward to seeing UMA launched again whenever it is.
We enjoy your refreshing vids... and taking a needed break from all unending noise/static about politics and wars. Last night we fixed a big pot of chili then allowed it to cool off to steep overnight to enhance the flavor. Today while peacefully enjoy a brisk fall weekend, we'll enjoy a bowl or two or three as we binge watch Sailing Uma... just might end up making it a 2'fer with a repeat on Sunday. Cheers!
50 years ago when I built boats in Spain, we would use chopped up glass fibre as filler in just those locations . not load bearing it was just to join and then deny water access
We had an Inerga Puma 23, built in Spain 50 years ago and the skeg would fill with water, and pour out if you drilled a hole in it. The water would also leak into the boat from the skeg. Had it professionally repaired by a large company, but it was badly done. 10 years later we cut out large parts of the skeg with an angle grinder. Filled it with fiberglass and it never leaked again.
Love watching you guys work on Uma. Seeing the "guts" of an old boat built by a reputable US builder is quite eye opening. I used to live on a Morgan OI36 and was constantly amazed at the poor workmanship I would find, then even more surprised when I would run across something really well done.
Use a bucket with white vinegar for epoxy rollers, squeegees & tools to keep them clean... white vinegar is a safe cleaner for epoxy as well as alcohol....best to limit your contact with acetone as much as possible.
Isn't it a problem to use an epoxy brush that is soaked with vinegar?
Even if you let it fully dry, i bet the vinegar will leave some residue.
Acetone and alcohol fully evaporates.
"There's a gust in the machine!" OMG LOL 😂 This tickled as a sailor, a mechanic, and a nerd!
Ghost
@@juliemac5604 Yep. That's the joke.
I've said it before and I'll keep saying it. This is a rebuild/redesign for a 50 year old boat that you will be making almost 100% water-tight. Once finished, Yuba can be hit by a torpedo, and you'd just have to close off the section with the hole till you get to shore and lift it out of the water.
Yeah, I know but damn, that is going to be a solid boat for at least another 50 years.
It'll be so satisfying when Uma is in the water again!
That doesn't draw in views though. They could have saved time and money just working on a different boat.
This may be the best refit done by anyone, anywhere! Refit is not even the right term, a complete rebuild is more like it. Loving how much I am learning here....
You guys are so smart, and clever and able with these projects. I dont believe I have your ability.. thanks, cool to watch.
The “filler” in the skeg is GRP mulch. A slurry of resin and chop strand mixed in a bucket and poured into inaccessible cavities, the rest is polyurethane foam.
Out of interest, do you happen to know if "Liquid Transom" is a viable solution for replacing water-damaged keel or skeg core? I am guessing that its quite dense and solid once set so should act (slightly) more like ballast than the original foam in the keel? I would also guess that it might give a stronger accidental beach-damage resistance if you hit some coral, than the original foam filled keel?
My 1972 Hughes 38, has the same rudder design, skeg bronze shoe etc. I removed mine when I found the stock was moving very slightly inside the blade. I slit the GRP down either side of the blade adjacent to the stock and removed the “cap” exposing the front of the stock. I was then able to lift the stock away from the blade. The stainless pins were simply a tap fit into the stock. I managed to pull the pins out of the blade. I got the pins welded into the stock, before reassembling. The blade was super heavy, almost all GRP. With just a token amount of balsa core in the middle.
I look forward to these videos each week. You guys are the best. Thank you for going against the grain and doing something different than other sailing channels are doing (buying a bigger boat).
Oof, the water running out of the skeg gave me flashbacks to Sailing Seabird's horrific problem with their water-logged keel. Uma doesn't look to have the delamination problems Seabird did, thankfully, so here's hoping everything stays nice and dry. 🤞
If you remember sailing seabird used epoxy that hardens under water because of the problem they had with keel,rudder water logging
Hey Dan, you could put it in a state of vacuum. I’m not exactly sure how to do that but it will extract all of the moisture within the skeg. Whenever you create a vacuum water boils. It will continue to boil until there isn’t anything left of it. A vacuum bag with something to hold it away from the surface will do the trick. I would put under vacuum for at least two days. That should be plenty of time to extract every bit of it. You could wrap the skeg in burlap about a half inch thick and then put it in a bag with a vacuum pump. The old shop vac will not be strong enough or durable enough to run for a couple of days. A small pump like the type used in air conditioning repair will work perfectly. It can run for a very long time without any problems.
Just an idea from an old engineer.
Best Regards, from Your Pal Al
So beautiful to see a couple working together as a team building a life together. Thank you for many years. YAH Most High bless you.
You guys are the best. The boat works are my favorite.
Once you get the foam out and the skeg is dry. I recommend using epoxy foam, it does not get wet. Even so called closed cell Polyurethane foam will absorb water after a time. A good epoxy foam is made by Sicomin.
That rudder of yours would give a ORCA a headache.
A tooth ache at least!
Love you kids! Your work is A-1. Be well. ❤
Flat heads are horrible in most applications. But for exactly what you did, they are really useful. You were able to remove the junk for the slot, and use it. Imagine a Phillips or a torqs. You wouldn't be able to clean out.
If you are going to coat the bolt or it's going to get covered over time, slot head are the best.
They are generally not reusable though.
Those bolts are bronze. They should be reusable. I re-used 300 M8 316 stainless steel bolts when I replaced my aluminium toerail. They were in perfect condition after being installed on the old toerail for 44 years. Slot heads are great
You can gently re cut the slots on large brass or bronze fixings using a flat needle file or Dremel..
Great point 👉 👈
Flush out the old water logged foam with a solvent. Dry the space by force venting the hollow space until dry. Then fill with foam again…
Love the idea of removing screws from the deck. Looking forward to the new hardware 🤗
Such a fascinating story of all the parts of the boat build! Thank for another entertaining show!
On my boat i had glasset in aluminium that was tapped for cleats, winches and other deck hardware
If you want to see and copy a unique solution for limited holes in the deck look at The Duracell Project and how Matt is doing his life line Stanchions.. I think he epoxies a long solid glass rod into the deck and puts a sleeved stanchion over it. All sealed and no screws.
Thanks!
I watch another sailing blog and they have been rebuilding their Ocean-going vessel (quite a bit different than yours Cape George Cutter 36) but has been interesting seeing what issues you both deal with. Between the two of you, I feel like I am living in a boat yard! Because the boats are different, has been an education. He is a master boat builder, but you clearly could be as well as you are so knowledgeable. I am so impressed at how you two work so well together. Kika is very intelligent knows the boat as you do. Can't wait until you splash the boat again. I also enjoy your travel on land episodes in your off-road vehicle. Been awhile for that.
When I restored my 1925 house it took a full year to complete. Every day after work and every weekend. It reminds me of this job. Just non stop until it’s done. One funny thing I did was when I tried to sand all the interior trim work around the doors and baseboards the old paint would just gum up my sander in seconds. My solution was to pull them off and flip them over where there was bare fresh wood. Then sand and paint. I cannot tell you how many stressful discoveries I found like you have experienced. I did find 1932 Times Picayune newspapers wrapped around pipes! That was an interesting read. Keep up the great work and you’ll finally get to the end. Then the dreaded punch list of small things to do gets started that takes forever before you can say Done. Cest Bon!
Hey there , sorry about the water in the wrong places but glad to know y’all will get her fixed correctly. That wind could raise a three story kite. Loved the pun.
“There’s a gust (ghost?) in the rudder.” At 4:07 the pulley shows a sort of emoji-ed frown/scream face with the wide downturned mouth and perfectly placed eyes. The serendipity of good art.
Flat-heads are great for surfaces which become painted or otherwise fouled. If you replaced that with a hex or Torx head, if the paint got in, you'd never get it out, particularly if it were submerged and you couldn't use a solvent. As you just demonstrated, it was easy enough to hammer out the paint with a flat-head screwdriver.
Do lightly wire brush both the screw's threads as well as the threaded hole into which it sits. You want metal-metal contact, not metal-junk contact.
Don't sand down either the brass or the screw's head. Use a scraper for the upper layers of paint only, then a solvent to remove the rest.
Perhaps they didn't use a foam core as they wanted a solid, heavy rudder. Foam cores tend to delaminate under cyclical stress.
Yes, you definitely need to gut and redo the foam and/or filler in your skeg. If the epoxy/glass amalgam is solid, leaf it, but definitely use the old screwdriver test: If you can easily dig it out with a flat head screwdriver, then it ain't solid and needs to be replaced.
You can probably get a couple tanks of extra dry air from a welding supply and blow that through the deck joint to dry it out. Just a very low flow for a day would probably.almost all of the moisture out.
Beautiful work
You two are the best
A welcoming and pleasant surprise on the rudder. Some suggestions for deck hole filling: piping bag or appropriately sized syringe. DOE/FMEA - Desiign of experiments and Failure Mode Effects Analysis: Avoiding water peneration and condensation.
Always worth sealing the top of the rudder in way of the shaft . Eg Sikafkex in a groove
As you of course know, the typical failure problem with welded rudder sticks is water ingress down the shaft to the welds on the tangs, where the low oxygen salty water now attacks the stainless tang welds …
I think I would do at least one 20mm slit cut down in line with a tang weld and verify /have a look inside! More work but long term .
Also(!) you might create a 15mm borehole right thru the trailing edge . If ever you have a steering problem in future , it is that much easier to thread a warp through the borehole and regain control of the rudder ..
Great job guys, as ever. Just be grateful you don’t have one of the Pearson aluminium shafted rudders- now they are ‘ interesting ‘ !
I enjoy watching your channel every week,
Tip. You burn the fin roller with a torch and reuse it.
When air drying wet wood, high-percentage rubbing alcohol is your friend. As the alcohol evaporates, it will take the water with it.
You might consider enlarging the crack near the rudders post and checking for rust. I'm certain you already know this better than I but I've been reading and learning a lot about boat maintenance recently. From what I gather the con of stainless is that it rusts and corrodes where it can't get air. Some of the rudders that fall off the exposed post is fine. It's the part of the post fiberglassed in that corroded away. Those weren't skeg hung but still. Maybe check it out. Perhaps there is some kind of sensor?
Old construction, better than the new models. Good rudder and boat.
I love a good pun! “There’s a gust in the machine.” 😂
Love your “ boat work shirt” so true !
That water intrusion, other than the rudder, is a real bummer. I hope you are able to get that cleared.
Great job guys! Well done! You rock! Keep rocking!
Holly hole fill. Happy Holidays guys. Enjoy.😊
Little tip about your resined fin rollers: you can actually burn the resin with a heat gun and your rollers will be as new... I have tried it with epoxy, not sure about vinylester or polyester, though...
Impressed with that glass work under the cockpit sole.
Skeg on my P36 is empty sump 14" or so deep then glass and slurry from there down to the bottom. Always a collector of whatever might come in around the rudder stock if the packing gland wasn't tight. But the skeg and rudder are rock solid after 50 years.
If there is metal reinforcement inside rudder and skeg then be warned that they may not be that solid. It's almost impossible to get a bond between stainless steel and FRP as nothing really sticks to stainless and the plastic and stainless expend and contract at different rates. This means there is almost always high moisture inside the rudder between the stainless and the FRP. Stainless is very poor underwater and will suffer in poor aeration with stress corrosion, crevice corrosion and crack corrosion. The stainless steel you can see always looks good as it has good oxygenation. I have seen many rudders that looked great from outside with the stainless inside almost completely corroded away in parts.
Brilllllliant Uma - thanks for sharing ⛵️ 👍
Keep going you guys - you must be shattered - NON-STOP!!!
Godt jobba! Good job! Rehab the old one - building a new boat, are'y? A clever and educated couple!
The best way I found to dig out the inside of holes with core, is to take a nail and bend it in half. Put it into a drill and dig out the core and vacuum the holes.
Your back to the bare hull stage, 1/3 done, keep the faith
If your fin rollers are metal, you can resurrect them by pouring acetone into a metal can, with a small hole on the side just above the acetone lever, light the acetone and hang the rollers over the edge of the can and the resin will burn off. Or use a butane torch.
nice progress you made. and you are right in one thing. If the water is calm and no tide, you only have pulls to the side of a clite. But the most time you will use the clits in choppy water and the boat goes in all directions. so also the forces will go in all directions so also up and down ;-) but even when you have tides and calm water you will have a lot of forces in all directions. but to be honest, I saw where you came from to make this assumtion :D
I think the word that you're looking for is cleat.
Just a thought, drain your air compressor, moisture from the environment gets trapped in pressure system, add a dry filter , if not you will adding moisture other by the rain
Always enjoyable and educational to watch your videos. May God continue to bless you.
To drain the water out off the rudder: let the most off it come out with the force off gravity for a day off 3 ,then close all the holes,make one on the bottom ,make an circular patch appr.2 cm thick,round appr.5 cm with in the middle an nipple (to mount the tube for the vacuumpomp) glue it above the hole,buy an cheap vacuumpomp ( with an vacuumchamber for example the vevor ,cost 100 dollar for the entire set) modify the vacuumchamber so that the extracted water goes first in the chamber ,so not in the pump.( easy with an extra nipple on the cover)
Let it pump ,the first days lots will come out,after two weeks dripping,you can put a cheap moisture meter in the vacuumchamber to monitor the humidity when dripping has stops.when the moisture level goes down to 30 % put an compressor on the tube…try if possible to put the rudder under water and look for undidected holes …..
Ps you will be surprised how much water is coming out after the natural dripping has stops and you thought it is dry within,with the vacuumpump
I like both of your shirts . . Cheers guys great work . 🍻🍻
An old fiberglassers trick to clean finned rollers is to light them on fire with a propane torch. Do this outside with nothing flammable close by. The resin will burn off and just leave a black film. You use the propane torch because you have to relight them to get all the resin inside the roller.
Dan played Warcraft. 😂 Job's done
50 year old glass boats were tbick and solid. I had a 50+ year old glass boat built on the us west coast. It was crazy thick, to the point it was hard to get bronze fititngs that went through. Mold was used for almost 20 years and the new versions floated near 8 inches higher...
Hey Guys,
Just a thought …maybe some weep holes in designated points to allow water the ability to run out rather than getting trapped in the channel / deck / hull joint..
Again just a thought ..don’t want you guys to have an issue down the road with water getting trapped in that void.
Love your stuff.. keep up the great work, always amazing!!
Thanks
Mark
My motor sailer was 6mm steel. Testing the thickness was very easy with a meter.
In Tasmania and fiordland NZ we sailed uncharted waters a bumped rocks.
Glass boats better performance but not good for impacts.
deck screws with a void below and between them .... inject resin in there until it comes out the other holes ! Resin is not water soluble so it'll displace it, for good !
Beat me to it. 🤪
At the end of the episode, you were talking about G10 fiberglass & how you can tap threads into it. So, I'm wondering if you could helicoil those threads so that, instead of relying on glass to hold bolts, your now relying on stainless steel embedded in glass. Maybe, along with strengthening the glass, you can also remove and install bolts without tearing up the glass because the coil is taking the beating... maybe? Another solution is using threadnuts or rivnuts. As ACMX, in school we were taught basic fiberglass layup and repairs. One repair was fixing a pulled out bolt. You encase the rivnut/threadnut in resin where you want a bolt...just a few thoughts 😊
Are you planning on putting a water tight bulkhead forward of the quadrant? You are going threw all this to make it basically a bullet proof ship so making the rudder bullet proof by enclosing it in its own area incase it gets hit and rips it off makes it so the boat wont sink.
Yes. We did a whole video about that recently. The bulkhead is already glassed in. The entire cockpit area is separated from the interior of the boat.
so much work for your floating home!
Why get into a tiny area and dig out from the top of the skeg.
Cut the side out of the skeg and comfortably repair from the outside.
Hmmm when it's time for me to pull I'm gonna get out my vacuum pump and it should vacuum it down to -30 psi and boil out all the water
Loved the Warcraft peon reference! I say that all the time too. "Jobs done"
i knew i couldn't be the only one
Hey- great job you two! I'm doing the very same kind of work on my Pacific Seacraft Orion as the rudder had water in it - an all too common thing. But in contrast to the title of your video, your rudder had NO water in it. The bottom piece attaching the rudder to your skeg is a gudgeon. In older boats maganese bronze was often used so switch to silicon bronze if your can as that will degrade in sea water over time. Definitely replace the bolts with silicon bronze.
Thanks for the video got me to check mine and turns out I found a crack as well as top mount was going to fail soon.
enjoying Dan's slightly horrified "everything comes out really easy and is super loose, hahahaha cooooool 😅😅😅😬" reactions, hahaha
If it was me, I would be cutting that skeg off and making a spade rudder with a carbon or pultruded FRP stock. The engineering for a spade rudder is simple and its relatively easy to make a rudder that will take the ground or withstand almost any collision that you want it to. The spade rudder stock on my boat is 200mm diameter of pultruded glass and its designed to take grounding and collision right up to the point where its in danger if ripping the stern off. It also has a weak point built in about half way down the blade. The bottom (hull) bearing stock seal is above the waterline and there is a watertight bulkhead forward off the rudder.
Careful you’re going to trigger the “only old design is good design” for offshore mafia
@@jorgenadam 😂 I am so over them! And why do they mostly seem to be American?
Surprised to see the skeg was waterlogable. Seems like split skegs would be common in northern climes when the water freezes in winter.
Looking good 🎉 that rudder is beefy🎉
If it was me considering all the work you have already done to the boat, I'd think about just trimming that skeg off the boat, glassing her fair, then building a big heavy duty spade rudder and put a safety skeg that goes from the bottom of the keel back to the rudder post like Bob Perry has done on his new Carbon Cutters.
This would give you a more balanced helm that was easier to manage and steer, as well it would give you far more rudder authority not only in ahead, but astern making the boat much easier to back up.
This would also have the added benefit of if you run over a fishing net or a line it will do more to hold it down under the boat rather than letting it get wrapped up in your sail drive. It will also do a better job of protecting the rudder in the event of a grounding.
Also while G-10 is amazing, I have been making my own just laminating several layers of fiberglass into a sheet and doing this have had good luck drilling and tapping it.
You guys are so kool. 👍🤷🏻♀️I don’t know what else to say. 🤷🏻♀️
I like watching you two very much. Theirs others too, so don’t go getting big heads. 😹
You’re my family 😢. From a distance and so safe too! 😅
Make your own G10! You have plenty of scraps of glass and the skills to do it. Even crappy glass and chop strand has more than enough shear and compressive strength for being a backing plate. Certainly it's a better material than plywood which is frequently used and still has a decent service life as long as it's not wet all the time. The middle layers can be scraps and chop, just finish the top and bottom layers with a non-overlapped layer of 1708. Also, FYI Heli-Coil makes inserts in different materials including stainless and monel that you could use in a blind hole and not get condensation on the interior.
You can't make your own G-10. G-10 is pressed and heat treated to make it what it is. Just laying up some layers of glass isn't even close to the same.
I just picked up one of those moisture meters for measuring moisture in the walls of our RV. I wonder if that would work on your sailboat for a measuring moisture behind the wall or the deck?
Umer 2.0 coming to a marina near you. You got this guys, one step at a time :)
Hanse changed to Sekaflexing on their windows around 2008, after about 5 years they started to falloff all their yachts. Must have cost a fortune, as they ended up fixing them under warranty.
I too would recommend looking at the Duracell Project.
Look at 'the Duracell project'. Many great ideas to eliminate holes in the boat deck
To keep from bolting cleats to the deck you could imbed some silicon bronze bar in the deck & then drill & tap it. Make the deck extra thick under it & don't drill all the way through. Use silicon bronze screws with it & bronze cleats. That way you avoid galvanic corrosion. It's pretty old school going bronze but a whole lot of those fitting from the early 20th century are still around long after the boats they were on rotted away.
The bow and stern cleats really want to be through bolted just in case you (God forbid) need to be towed.
Direct a warm hair dryer into the topside gaps? Dry out the holes?
Wow nice access to your cockpit locker , I'm gonna hafta hire a very small person
Try walk around in your new cockpit, and enjoy the enormous amount of space you got now. The right solution for a boat your size, is a tiller.
Look for pictures of different boat types that exist, both with tiller and wheel options, and you will se how much space the wheel option steals from you.
I had a Najad 320 with a tiller, but looked at some with the wheel option and it just didn´t make any sense.
And again; look at the Najad way in terms of the fixed glas front of the sprayhood. I had all my instruments in there, together with the autopilot control. So it was always a very nice place to be, when saling, with a clear view forward.
Indeed. My Dufour 35 is also tiller steered (one reason I bought her) and I compared her cockpît to wheel steerd ones. Tiller is so much better. It's basically one less person in the cockpit. KISS
Next time your are having to fill a bunch of holes with epoxy you might want to try using a piping bag(the kind used by pastry chefs). They make reusable silicone pipping bags(which epoxy doesn't stick to for the most part) or you can buy tipples disposable ones. Depending on how "thick" the epoxy is, you might be able to also use the pipping bag when doing fillets.
Claire Saffitz is a pastry chef(I recommend trying her sourdough donuts) and she has some RUclips vids with tips on how to use a piping bag.
Love the "Jobs done!" Peon reference!
Thank you for the WoW ‘“Job’s done” I was tank back in the day and loved that emote. :) @sailinguma
Nice warcraft 2 reference...
JOBS DONE!
5:51 I have ball bearings and a shaft seal around the shaft between the rudder and its rudder tube.
Also I have a grease cup or grease fitting screwed onto the rudder tube, filled with grease that can be screwed inward so the grease is pushed into the tube, lubricating the shaft and preventing it from rusting... The cup can be screwed inwards from time to time, or refilled if needed.
Your boat doesn't have this?
Kika, you need to put a prefilter in that filter of the 3M mask for particuls ... you save much money in organic vapor filters that you use for epoxy resin ! Big kiss ❤
Put a piece of tape on the drill bit the distance you want to put it through the deck so you have a reference point of how far to go. Good trick I learned in the boatyard.
@@ernest795 You can get metal collars to attach to the bit in place of the tape the risk of the flutes getting snagged and punching too deeply before you know it.
I also had the same problem with the skeg, I still have to reassemble the heel and I wanted to see how you did it, when will you make the video?
Imagine how great your boat will be in the future.