I had a rag in the drain on a shower build when I poured self level and it did not seal. Well you know I filled the trap with self level which required a jack hammer. Beware that without a good seal you are at risk of that sneaky stuff! Great video!
Would the basics of your self leveling work on my shed. I'm turning my 8x12 shed into a tiny home, but the slab slopes 1.5" from one end to the other and want to level it out for flooring to go down.
@@matt_s1995 definitely use $10 bags of concrete on the low side to try and level it up so that you reduce the number of $40 bags of self leveler you need. Make sure to prime in between each step. I didn’t prime my first pour and it looked like garbage. Always prime ha ha
I don't do this work and I do not need to watch this video.. However, I'm watching it until the end because it's really awesome to watch people that know what they're talking about and are confident in what they're saying. The trick with the wood shows the experience along with the words.. Awesome job!!
I’m a retired bricklayer and I took so much time to make sure that my foundations were exactly level and square, carpenters used to go into the work office and argue with the site manager that it was their turn to follow my work because they knew that everything from foundation to floor then to ceiling and to wallplate was exact and correct, I was taught to make it easier for the guy following you and take pride in your work
Today's contractors show up late, use the cheapest materials and laborers, and spend as little time possible at the jobsite working so fast that all corners are cut. Then they expect to be paid. The owner is always made out to be the bad guy in court for refusing to pay and have help gathering evidence of shoddy work done by the contractor. Contracts, design drawings & detailed specs are your friends.
I like how you showed the thought process with the screws and then changed your mind. Could have edited it out, glad you left it in. Helps to watch how others think and troubleshoot!
The difference between "level" and "true" or "flat" is lost on many contractors. Like you said, making it truly level would have caused problems with sloping tile ramps. In the end, it's how it "appears" to the eye, as that is how the owners will "see" it every day. The only other guy I've seen talk about this in public is Mike Holmes from Canada. Good work! Bravo Zulu!
When I am done tearing everything out and down to a bare slab, I run my 7" grinder with a masonry cup and dust recovery setup over the floor. It knocks down the high spots and reveals a lot about the floor in a relatively small amount of time. It has proven to be a great time saver for me.
If more people saw the value of a life as a contractor and we didn't focus on telling our kids you don't want to end up in a job like this, maybe the field would expand and maybe prices could be competitive. Funny how many people watch videos like this but wouldn't be caught dead with plaster on their hands 🤷♂️
@@hellersbuildingremodeling7771 100%.. We do quality work. unfortunately that comes at a cost, and when you are bidding against someone who cuts corners, the home owner, gets 2 quotes, and only sees a bottom line figure.
As a GC, with a career in many aspects of construction, he made that shower pan look MUCH easier than it is. Fantastic job. One thing to consider from one professional to another, is to do our best to minimize dust and debris to other parts of the house. Closets, beds, flooring etc. Good job on the drop clothes for foot traffic throughout the day.
As I said on a previous comment, I've been a remodeling contractor in NorCal for over 40 years. Watching your videos has been a real delight! And believe or not, I pick up something from each one, which proves that you're always learning something new in this trade! Thanks for the fun and informative videos, and keep them coming!
In Australia we use a floor waste in the bathroom floor as well as the shower . A 1:60 - 1:70 fall in shower . Less fall on the main floor of bathroom . You have to make more use of the level whilst you're screeding . Establish an mark a reference Datum line somewhere near the door way . Set your laser up to required height somewhere on the floor ( near the door ) where it's less likely to get knocked over . Get a piece of 4×2 , 8 inches long , must have been cut square . Using a square mark from your laser line your finished floor level on the 4x2 , and the level of your floor drains . Now you can screed your levels from the laser corresponding to the relevant mark on the 4x2 . This is handy because its easy to transfer the floor height over the shower hob perfectly . Screed from back towards the doorway and around the laser level in situ . Pack away your level and screed the patch you have left .
Portmanteau! Very impressive. Can't believe I learned a new vocab word watching your handyman video. One can improve their DIY and SAT score at the same time. Keep up the great work and hope 2021 is a great year for you guys.
What I do is place a 3/4" plywood around the perimeter of the bed against the walls that is level and + 1/2" above the drain. Then I dump the mud and use the screeds from the perimeter to the drain. Once that is done, then I remove the plywood perimeter and then back fill with mud. Makes it very easy.
You can also use 2x lumber to give you more surface area for the screed to rest on.use splastic shims under the bottom to get it level. You can leave the, there once lumber is removed. Since plastic, shouldn’t cause problems.
Great job. Glad you moved away from leveling the floor and then sloping the tile to meet the wood floor. 3/4 inch slope over that distance is not too bad. A barefoot just skims the surface of a floor while walking. A half inch slope in a two foot distance can de noticed by some people. I’ve actually done this and regretted it everyday.
As someone who does these things for a living I mostly face palm myself while all these people with minimum skill want to be You Tube stars before they have reached the level of professionalism that would warrant them teaching others. I especially liked how you showed me how to the level the floor with the screw method, then pivoted because it was not going to work with the slope going the wrong way with the door transitions. People have no idea the amount of thought and planning going on with tile. Flat/level/plumb is not always easy in a house that has settled, or had people before you with the "good enough attitude". A good contractor tries for perfect. Nothing is perfect, but trying for perfect one notch down is excellence. You do excellent work. I recently put in a shower door where the tub was not level. I took 2/16 of an inch off one side. The homeowner actually noticed! I laughed and told them why. Then I asked if there was anything else. NOPE. I felt good, they noticed that but nothing else was amiss.
@@josephtrant9006 2/16" is short for TWO SIXTEENTHS. I don't write like I'm talking. You need to just understand me. Here is one: LOL means I'm laughing out loud. All the kids started that one. If I were to say I am LOL at your comment, I would be laughing out loud at you. Which I might do because you are being over critical here.
I can tell that your channel is gonna blow up. Your content is not only very detailed and informative, but clear and easy to take in. Oh yeah, and entertaining. Stud Pack has dialed in the triple threat of success on RUclips - informative, clear, and entertaining. Keep on, keepin' on 💪
They make an expansion foam that unrolls and you can spray 3m adhesive on the wall and just stick it on. Then cut off the excess after the leveler is dry. Quicker than cutting all those pieces around the walls.
@@MarshallNator UZIN makes a nice expansion tape that goes down in seconds. Cost about 50 cents a foot. Also you might try the Uzin 170 self leveler and 888 patch. It killed Ardex in a side by side comparison on a job I did last year.
@@MarshallNator I have used Dow Sill Seal R-Unfaced Polyethylene Roll Insulation 3.5 inch sill gasket. $7.00 for a 50 foot roll. Contact glue or double sided tape to hold to wall. You can also use spray foam and trim as needed.
Finding floor level with the screw trick was a great idea. I think I would leave them behind to help super refine the self-leveler and micro adjustments there after. You can always take the screws out later.
I'm aware that I am late to the party and this comment won't be very helpful for this job, but I figure the info I'm providing might be helpful to you guys in the future, so here it goes. First my credentials, Commercial / Residential Flooring Subcontractor for 30 years. Have done countless floors just like those and also much, much worse. I had a cringe moment when you talked about doing it true level, and the lowest point was at the rooms entrance, but then breathed a sigh of relief when you came back and changed your plains. Which was absolutely the right call. Really the biggest error I saw (mainly from inexperience) was your pouring barriers, and more specifically the width of them. The ones around the walls should have been made of 1/4 inch plywood, ripped to the width needed, then caulked if need be. But often simply using masking tape is good enough, as it bonds EXTREAMLY well to the latex primer that was applied to the floor. More importantly, it's strong enough to hold back the leveler, but weak enough to allow you to remove it once your floor has cured. Then a simple skim coat of thinset flooring patch around the walls fills any remaining gaps without the worry of it flowing because it can be applied much thicker. What you don't want to do is what you said at the end, and saw off the excess foam an leave that around the perimeter of your room, because that inevitably will be where the new flooring will get damaged in the future. Because you now have a soft substrate that someone could place a A-frame ladder leg onto, or perhaps drop something hard, and it absolutely can and will result in the tile breaking. Seen it many times cause by foam filled expansion joints, curtain highrise walls being poorly connected to slab and the list goes on. Its just bad practice to ever leave something softer than the subfloor to remain anywhere under a finished floor, regardless of how obscure a location you think it is, Murphy's Law says, if it can happen, it WILL HAPPEN. Eventually
Hey I appreciate this comment! I'm an inexperienced DIY'er ready to level about 250 sf of prepped slab with about a 1 1/4" slope where an existing tiled area meets up. I've been racking my brain about this issue because the top of the already tiled area is 3/4" below my highest point. Is this video saying that you can pour self leveler to achieve a smooth surface to tile which is not actually level? Also, your comment said you use masking tape instead of a barrier like plywood because it adheres to the primed floor surface and doesnt create a weak point in the substrate...does that mean you put some tape on the floor and wrap it partially up the wall, let it cure then just rip the exposed tape off instead of making a dam?
If you are not using a spike roller, use a 3/8" knotch trowel to open up and close the self leveling. That is the best method I've found to make everything as level as possible, specially where 2 pours meet. Hope that helps.
I'm a retired contractor and very impressed with your work. You almost made me forget what a terrible dissapointment nearly every job was. Yes, folks usually choose the cheapest bid, so we are forced figure out ways to do it cheaper (if you want to work). Also when ppl cut corners, like not replacing the cabinetry or using cheaper materials, it somehow is reflected back to the GC. There was rarely a case where everyone left satisfied. This attention to detail is unlikely if not for a "how to" video.
Just found your channel yesterday, I'm hooked! Great to see a father and son working so well side by side. Those memories are priceless and the knowledge being passed down can't be attained any better way. Continue what you're doing, it's quality content the likes of which is becoming harder to find all the time.
Prep work is half the job ,but it is the difference between a good job ,and a bad job if it is not done right!!! Some contractors will take short cuts to make more money, but the customer will ultimately pay in the long wrong!!!! From a fellow contractor good job on the video, and your work ,and thanks for explaining in detail ,so people of all levels can understand, and by the way great attitude too!!!!!
Good video! Just a tip, if you run a small air compressor in a corner the vibrations will help the self leveler settle across the floor space. Also, you can use a rake with short tines to push it around quickly and that will help it find level between the pours. Occasionally you can end up with a small lip between the buckets if you don't spread it together.
I was thinking during the pour if there was a way to vibrate the slab. Even mentioned it to Jordan. Compressor is a great idea. My old Dewalt would be perfect. I will try it in the laundry room
A Bosch hammer drill set to hammer only with a dull chisel bit or larger drill bit and a sturdy block of wood to vibrate against works really good, I use that trick for exterior pours as well, on the forms and such.
@@StudPack Use a spike roller. Will tickle out any bubbles from the pour, and leave a glass finish. With a 6-foot handle and a long arm, you might not even to even step into most rooms. If you do, wear a pair of spike-shoes. If you rush it, then the walls will get splattered, so if that matters, take it slow or tape a roll of paper to the bottom 2 foot of the walls.
Nice job. As a carpenter I see a lot of folk's old DIY or "professionally done" hacks and it's a pleasure seeing someone do a job that I won't have to either clean up (literally AND figuratively) or do extra work to fix.
but, that is what most people dont see when they employ a contractor to do work. all most people see, is, i went to work, came home and this is all you did, and it cost me this much
I'm a flooring contractor. That shower pan and your techniques were great. The self-leveling with foam was helpful also. I'm always open to learn. Thanks for teaching me :-)
I use a rake of a squeegee on a pole to get the material moved around where I need it instead of crawling around with a putty knife. You don't need to pick up material and move it you can just push it to where it needs to go to break the surface tension and get it to the perimeter's. You can also use it to level out uneven spots which you can see by the way the ceiling lights reflect off the wet material.
Gonna be honest. The work is excellent but the quality of the video is just as good. Love it when people take pride in what they do. Thanks guys and happy new year.
As an electrician I found this really interesting. It's great to see people that really care about finding the best way to do things. Watching someone explore with new products and make assumptions based on previous knowledge and explain their thought process is what I came to see.
My house is on a concrete slab and I'm building a 21' x 16' kitchen space with 24" x 8" porcelain tile in the mix. I knew that one corner was low and started with just 2 bags of level mix that proved to be too little. I next added 4 bags and over estimated the self-leveling attributes here and created a huge high spot that needed to be broadly chiseled out, again. I watched lots of self leveling videos and then RUclips directed me to this perfectly produced video. I bought the laser level and found exactly where my low spots were, and how low they are. What a godsend this video is for me and what a well produced piece of work. THANK YOU!!!!
Boy, that looks so professional! Beautiful. I am a homeowner and watched others on utube and have noticed someone using golf spike shoes and a spiked floor roller for going over the entire floor smoothing it. Keep up the great work. Love how you explain everything!!!!!!!
I'm no pro, but I just did something very similar to this at my house. One thing I added that I didn't see in your video is an extra bucket of water about 8" deep. After mixing a bucket of leveler, I drop my mixer in the extra bucket, give it a quick spin, and that keeps any buildup from accumulating and drying. Cleanup of the mixing paddle is much easier that way. Plus, if you need just a touch extra water, you can steal it from this bucket.
This is a great video. I spent many years pouring self leveling cement on commercial projects. You did a great job. We would save time by using weather stripping for our dams as well as 10oz Cove base adhesive to fill in any gaps (this worked better than caulk). Also, if you have extra hands…you can wear spiked shoes or cleats and walk on the self leveling material to work it in.
Every tile job I have done has been a learning experience... You can plan ahead all you like but at some point you have to scrap the plan and play it by ear to make it work... This is a great example of how pros work and will result in a beautiful job without a middle-of-the-night-toe stubbing transition!
Some great advice here particularly preparing the floor before pouring levelling compound by 'daming' the room. A while back i was working on on an old office block and the contactor poured dozens of bags onto a large entrance floor to level off for tiling. What they failed to do was fill the gaps along one wall and a huge amount poured down into the basement straight into the main electrical cupboard covering all the main fuse boards, contacts, wiring, everything. A real mess. The whole building had to be shut down whilst everything replaced at HUGE cost to the contractor.
I’ll bet that was expensive. Local drywall guy was rapid setting a patch with a heat gun on third floor commercial. Heat gun triggered adjacent fire sprinkler. At last count over $100k in damages on a $150 repair 😳
I used self leveling mortar in a 13×20 kitchen, let it dry for the weekend. The homeowners loved it and wanted to use a multicolored epoxy coating on it. Turned out incredible and unique looking! I personally did not do the epoxy but I have been learning to do it and the possibilities are endless.
Great detail. Will make a much smoother tile job as you said. The only thing I'd have done different is lay in one of those electric in floor heating systems! I have done a few showers in tile and did a very similar method when laying the mud floor using a level line on the wall and screeds.
Ive been in the remodeling biz for 42 years. This dude is a PRO! I would hire him anyway. I like his attention to detail and concern to do the job the right way. I've laid alot of tile myself and done bathrooms, kitchens, basements etc. Its hard to find good guys. I got a tile guy I use luckily who is a pro like this guy but its hard to find guys like that. And yea like a lot of guys are saying nobody wants to pay a pro top dollar. Too many scabs in the business that will low ball you. Nice work man!
I’m a flooring contractor of 25 years and I have no problems with you’re installation method. But for the love of God please put some knee pads on. Ha Ha....good video!!
Thank god someone else commented on that. I learned a vital lesson 30 years ago in the Army bounding and moving under fire running 3 to 5 seconds and taking cover by dropping to a knee and then to the prone is hell on the knees. It took a Global War on Terror for the Army to say we should protect our Soldier's knees. Well as I worked with GCs and doing flooring and anything else with having to work on my knees I always wear something to protect my knees and after 30 years in service, I can still work without knee pain. But, we all know that there are still people out there that will have to learn by doing not getting told.
I've been a remodeler for over 40 years. You do a great job! Just curious why you didn't pull the cabinets and carry new flooring wall to wall to allow for future cabinet replacements? Also, what kind of camera do you use, the clarity is fantastic.
I was wondering the same thing. It's going to be annoying for the homeowner to have the current cabinet be so low - I speak from experience, because the one in my rental is the same way. You can feel it every time you use the sink.
Adds several cost factors to the estimate: R&R cabinet, countertop, additional mat'l costs, increases labor costs. Likely the HO was given the estimates for different options and selected based on their budget. Was it short term thinking? Maybe, but we are finding that HO is considering that the next owner is likely to change things anyway (gone are the days where people keep the house "forever".
Should of pulled the cabinets now the toe kicks are at a minimum height, it doesn't pay not to gut the room when doing a remodel, insulation could be bad, there will be regrets
Sometimes a homeowner only wants to pay for so much. Good thing most of my homeowners are always willing to go the extra step to a more perfect job. Instead of putting a foam strip around the edges i just use spray foam, it does the same thing just without all the extra labor. They also make a maybe 20" roller with about a thousand spikes coming off of it and a handle for rolling over self leveler, it helps in the leveling process.
To everybody in here, saying, Oh i wish there was contractors like you in my area, blah blah blah! There is! You just think there quote is too expensive or a rip off, or you are getting done over. No you not, 9 times out of 10, you will get ripped off by the guy that is cheap.
pshhhh I've had friends and customers pay for the high bid contractor and they still don't do quality work. It's a gamble without word of mouth or an example to look at.
Yep.The cheap guy is clueless 90% of the time. Inexperienced or just plain stupid and unqualified . If they can’t price the job correctly it’s doubtful they’ll know anything about the required building science or installation best-practices either, or care. That said, paying top dollar won’t automatically get you the crew from “this Old House”. The remodeling industry is full of high markup high sales pressure charlatans who ALSO don’t give a crap about installation best practices. Buyer beware - you want this guy, no Llowball Joe and not Slick Salesman Sam.
nice work guys. i work for a general contractor am a finish carpenter and cabinet maker. man i wish we had tile guys like you. the high dollar homes we work on deserve work like this.
@@RawTakes all we do is high dollar custom stuff so i dont see why not. there must be a reason why we use the guys we do i just don't see it . good ole boy system i guess
This is my first video I've seen from you, and I'm so glad I found your videos... I greatly enjoyed every second, I love how detailed you and your helper is, and how you make sure your quality is top notch... I as a independent contractor myself pride myself of my work, and always put quality first... much love from central Florida, and I enjoy and can't wait to see another great video.
Hi, just wanted to say that you remind me a lot of my father (passed away about 10 years ago). He was as hard working and resourceful as you are. I really love the relationship you keep with your son. Very inspiring and supportive. You guys have my admiration. oh, the construction videos are great too :=)
Hi Paul. I've been enjoying your videos. Keep up the good work. I did a whole 5000 SF house using Gypcrete to level floors and cover radiant heating tubes. I used a sub that specialized in it. He had a big mixer he'd bring to the site and used a pump and hoses to distribute it throughout the house. To set the height, he used a laser level and set nails to the exact height of the finished floor, much like you did with your screws. When he poured, he covered the tops of the nails with the slurry and left the nails in place as a guide, so they knew they had the correct thickness and everything was level.
What a pleasant and well spoken professional man. He has a very likeable nature and I wish him (and his crew) a prosperous and happy journey on RUclips and elsewhere.
Fantastic how to technique .. explains . Why he is doing ..what he going to do ..and its significance ..He would be a great guy to work for ..or have a beer with Camera guy needs a thumbs up also ..
Happy new year fellas. Leveler turned out good. I usually bring a squeegee to that fight. Package say “self” leveler but I like to poke it along with squeegee. Looks great. How much tamping down did you do with mortar bed. Just curious? Jerry from Fresno
Great video .. I got a bad slab that is crack and peaks in certain areas... Would be better off trying to grind it down to level off or try self level concrete the area ...
Jeeeeeesus, this is what it looks like when an absolute *artist* gets to work - ALSO - camera work and editing was super on point, really amazing content fellas! SUBBED!
One thing I have done with self-leveler is to use a notched trowel to spread the liquid rather than a putty knife. The ridges created by the notches will instantly collapse and flatten out but you can spread a lot very quickly and push a wave of leveler into corners and hard to reach areas where it will just do what it's supposed to do. One thing I'm curious about though, how did you keep a quarter inch depth throughout? Was the mix partially set up? I find that it will always slowly migrate to the low end, filling that up as it attempts to self-level, no matter what I do. Anyway, good job. Contrary to popular opinion, most of us contractors, (those in it for the long haul) care deeply, or we wouldn't still be in business.
Thx Daryl. We didn’t have any issues with the SLU flowing readily like that. Once we had coverage in an area we moved to the next. I used 5.25 qts water per bag of Mapei mix
Just one point. to exedite the edges you used foam. instead, use the spray foam along the border. Dries quick. use a knife to cut the overage once the floor is dried.
Glad you are not using the pan. I'm a big boy. I have stepped on some of those pans and they gave way, so that isn't going to work. Also, you could be showering with your four favorite girl friends., and cause a leak.
Yes...btdt. it's fun to find level and see what's going on but on a bath floor flat is typically the best. Toilet areas r one exception. Cabinets have toekicks to make up difference. Good job
I'm currently remodeling my master bath as I get time. I'm doing a linear drain to minimize plumbing poking down into my entry way. The drain was likely already there for this remodel. He would have had to dig into the slab a good bit to counter sink a linear drain or raise the shower floor up a good bit. Prob the same reason he didn't pull the cabinets when he did the floor. Owner's call.
@@mitchmarostica5772 Yes, I absolutely agree, but I think I would rather pass on this job and move onto something else. At my age I have decided there is no point in doing what I don't like doing. Its only money. Someone else is welcome to it.
@@mandatethis8024 No , craftsmen love doing complete remodels or new construction, not remodeling one bathroom in the middle of a finished home that is occupied. You obviously have no idea what you are talking About so stop telling people what to do with their lives .
Great job! Haha you never expect to hear “portmanteau” when watching a bathroom refinishing vid! Nowadays they call those words “blends”. I guess the younger generation couldn’t handle all those letters...and sounding refined!
I did similar work for about 15 years, until the arthritis in my hands got too much, often times fixing things done by "professionals." One thing I like about the way you do things is you're not afraid to reevaluate and take a better direction. Shows you're constantly assessing the quality of your work. Too many people, pros included, just bull through because "that's the way it's done," without stopping to really think about all the variables. And when you're not doing new construction, it's ALL variables!
I feel ya. As a dad in HVAC it's really hard to teach my 20 yr old son anything when he can't go 2 friggin seconds without checking his GD phone. I will literally be talking to him on troubleshooting something and I look up and he's looking down at his phone... He's back working at Taco Bell now...
@@tombalboni2143 thats unfortunate. My dad (HVACR tech) mostly did what the poster mentioned to me. Ended up just going to tech school for it, now i work more than my dad does. Been doing HVAC service work for almost 5 years now, down in SW FL.
@@tombalboni2143 exactly! You can’t teach a kid that has no interest in learning! On the other hand, if you have a dad that doesn’t really want to spend the time to teach you anything more than what they want you to know just to help them. In a lot of cases you can still learn a lot from just watching what your Dad doing! I know, my own Dad was a cabinet maker and I was put to work at age 5 running after tools at first being a gofer! As I got older then taught to use power equipment just enough to make cabinets doors and build drawers. Dad would never teach me how to design kitchens or how to layout the cabinetry for sizes to fit a wall and so forth. But I picked it up by watching him design and layout the kitchens on paper. Spend enough time paying close attention you can pick up a lot of information you can use yourself too! My Dad just loved belittling me all my life while he was alive, told me many times I would never amount to anything and never be the man he was! Well I’m glad to say my Dad was wrong. I surpassed my Dad’s skill level considerably over the years. Even building kitchens in the street of dream homes my Dad never had the skills for that! But I did have to over come years of being put down and belittled and rebuild my own confidence what I was really capable of doing on my own first! Unfortunately I don’t think some parents know or even care of the damages they caused their kids when they put down their own kids and belittle their kids. That sticks with kids their whole life many times. Getting over that negativity in your mind from what a parent tells you certainly can be the hardest thing you can ever have to do on your own! Can be done, but not easy! My dad been dead 30 years and I can still hear him telling me I have stupid ideas and I’ll never amount to anything. Fortunately though, I now know that’s not true! Just took some time and a lot of effort to get that limitations from my Dad out of my mind!
@@tombalboni2143 Boy, I hear ya. Not just the kids either. At my jobs it became necessary to have everyone leave their phones in their car or in the truck. Every time I'd walk the job half (at least) of the crew would be on the phone. I'd be sure that everyone would have my or a foreman's number so everyone could be reached in an emergency. The amount of work done in a day improved dramatically.
That trick with the screws is a classic, but I've never seen anyone else use it. Nicely explained even if you didn't end up using them. I just use a long level and a straight plank to set them: start at the entrance, put in your screws right besides the plank, verify by putting the level on top, then do the longest diagonal from the entrance, then the shorter diagonals etc.
![ROSÉ (로제) - number one girl [더 시즌즈-이영지의 레인보우] | KBS 241129 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A9oByH9Ci24/mqdefault.jpg)
There is a rag in the drain. Don't worry guys
I had a rag in the drain on a shower build when I poured self level and it did not seal. Well you know I filled the trap with self level which required a jack hammer. Beware that without a good seal you are at risk of that sneaky stuff! Great video!
Would the basics of your self leveling work on my shed. I'm turning my 8x12 shed into a tiny home, but the slab slopes 1.5" from one end to the other and want to level it out for flooring to go down.
@@matt_s1995 definitely use $10 bags of concrete on the low side to try and level it up so that you reduce the number of $40 bags of self leveler you need. Make sure to prime in between each step. I didn’t prime my first pour and it looked like garbage. Always prime ha ha
@@seanstephenson5818 prime it? I'm handy, but inexperienced with this stuff.
I don't do this work and I do not need to watch this video.. However, I'm watching it until the end because it's really awesome to watch people that know what they're talking about and are confident in what they're saying. The trick with the wood shows the experience along with the words.. Awesome job!!
renaissance man over here here teaching people about portmanteaus while teaching about flooring. What a king
I’m a retired bricklayer and I took so much time to make sure that my foundations were exactly level and square, carpenters used to go into the work office and argue with the site manager that it was their turn to follow my work because they knew that everything from foundation to floor then to ceiling and to wallplate was exact and correct, I was taught to make it easier for the guy following you and take pride in your work
Today's contractors show up late, use the cheapest materials and laborers, and spend as little time possible at the jobsite working so fast that all corners are cut. Then they expect to be paid. The owner is always made out to be the bad guy in court for refusing to pay and have help gathering evidence of shoddy work done by the contractor. Contracts, design drawings & detailed specs are your friends.
@@clutch5sp989 pride of workmanship is sorely lacking in todays construction industry. The old cost/quality/time triangle dictates the job.
A man with skills and knowledge. Rare. You ever consider running for office. Greatly lacking at that level.
I like how you showed the thought process with the screws and then changed your mind. Could have edited it out, glad you left it in. Helps to watch how others think and troubleshoot!
Agreed, I'm using screws on my project for a disaster basement situation!
The difference between "level" and "true" or "flat" is lost on many contractors. Like you said, making it truly level would have caused problems with sloping tile ramps. In the end, it's how it "appears" to the eye, as that is how the owners will "see" it every day. The only other guy I've seen talk about this in public is Mike Holmes from Canada. Good work! Bravo Zulu!
When I am done tearing everything out and down to a bare slab, I run my 7" grinder with a masonry cup and dust recovery setup over the floor. It knocks down the high spots and reveals a lot about the floor in a relatively small amount of time. It has proven to be a great time saver for me.
floor level and kerdi pan.
It's hard to find contractors with the mix of integrity, knowledge, grit, intelligence, professionalism as you.
There aren't any because they cost too much. Well, at least they do here in Chicago.
Because not many people can afford them.
@@upgrayde What makes you say that?
If more people saw the value of a life as a contractor and we didn't focus on telling our kids you don't want to end up in a job like this, maybe the field would expand and maybe prices could be competitive. Funny how many people watch videos like this but wouldn't be caught dead with plaster on their hands 🤷♂️
Yes and good contractors are worth paying for.
Wow someone who actually cares about doing a job right , i wish all contractors were like this guy .
@@hellersbuildingremodeling7771 100%.. We do quality work. unfortunately that comes at a cost, and when you are bidding against someone who cuts corners, the home owner, gets 2 quotes, and only sees a bottom line figure.
Yep, I'd defiantly hire that dude to remodel my bathroom.
Its your Job to explain to them the difference.
Comes down to cost sadly
@@hellersbuildingremodeling7771 well said
As a GC, with a career in many aspects of construction, he made that shower pan look MUCH easier than it is. Fantastic job.
One thing to consider from one professional to another, is to do our best to minimize dust and debris to other parts of the house. Closets, beds, flooring etc. Good job on the drop clothes for foot traffic throughout the day.
As I said on a previous comment, I've been a remodeling contractor in NorCal for over 40 years. Watching your videos has been a real delight! And believe or not, I pick up something from each one, which proves that you're always learning something new in this trade! Thanks for the fun and informative videos, and keep them coming!
You got it P R and thx for the comments 👍
This is, by far, the best , most detailed video I’ve seen regarding this topic. Thank you for being so detailed, and so clear on every step.
Thx Sargent!!
why you make all the floor so high ？ Why??
The detailed how to and why is what sets your videos apart from the others in the diy video realm
In Australia we use a floor waste in the bathroom floor as well as the shower . A 1:60 - 1:70 fall in shower . Less fall on the main floor of bathroom .
You have to make more use of the level whilst you're screeding . Establish an mark a reference Datum line somewhere near the door way . Set your laser up to required height somewhere on the floor ( near the door ) where it's less likely to get knocked over . Get a piece of 4×2 , 8 inches long , must have been cut square . Using a square mark from your laser line your finished floor level on the 4x2 , and the level of your floor drains .
Now you can screed your levels from the laser corresponding to the relevant mark on the 4x2 . This is handy because its easy to transfer the floor height over the shower hob perfectly . Screed from back towards the doorway and around the laser level in situ . Pack away your level and screed the patch you have left .
Portmanteau! Very impressive. Can't believe I learned a new vocab word watching your handyman video. One can improve their DIY and SAT score at the same time. Keep up the great work and hope 2021 is a great year for you guys.
Portmanteaus
@@daveharr7969 only if there are more than one portmanteau
Portmanteau. I didn't know about that second meaning. The only one I knew was 'a large leather bag that opens into two equal parts' 😁
What I do is place a 3/4" plywood around the perimeter of the bed against the walls that is level and + 1/2" above the drain. Then I dump the mud and use the screeds from the perimeter to the drain. Once that is done, then I remove the plywood perimeter and then back fill with mud. Makes it very easy.
Good idea 👍
You can also use 2x lumber to give you more surface area for the screed to rest on.use splastic shims under the bottom to get it level. You can leave the, there once lumber is removed. Since plastic, shouldn’t cause problems.
Someone else commented to use Kerdi board strips as screeds and leave them in place 👍
Great job. Glad you moved away from leveling the floor and then sloping the tile to meet the wood floor. 3/4 inch slope over that distance is not too bad. A barefoot just skims the surface of a floor while walking. A half inch slope in a two foot distance can de noticed by some people. I’ve actually done this and regretted it everyday.
As someone who does these things for a living I mostly face palm myself while all these people with minimum skill want to be You Tube stars before they have reached the level of professionalism that would warrant them teaching others. I especially liked how you showed me how to the level the floor with the screw method, then pivoted because it was not going to work with the slope going the wrong way with the door transitions. People have no idea the amount of thought and planning going on with tile. Flat/level/plumb is not always easy in a house that has settled, or had people before you with the "good enough attitude". A good contractor tries for perfect. Nothing is perfect, but trying for perfect one notch down is excellence. You do excellent work. I recently put in a shower door where the tub was not level. I took 2/16 of an inch off one side. The homeowner actually noticed! I laughed and told them why. Then I asked if there was anything else. NOPE. I felt good, they noticed that but nothing else was amiss.
Thx Edward!! Really appreciate that. You’re right about how much time goes into thinking about the outcome before a single tile is laid😎👍
Your a professional and said 2/16?
@@josephtrant9006 2/16" is short for TWO SIXTEENTHS. I don't write like I'm talking. You need to just understand me. Here is one: LOL means I'm laughing out loud. All the kids started that one. If I were to say I am LOL at your comment, I would be laughing out loud at you. Which I might do because you are being over critical here.
@@edwardschmitt5710 two sixteenths is one eighth
I'll bet u also say 8/16 I'm not laughing at u I'm shaking my head
When you do self leveling compound, you need a spiked roler to even the overlaps
A tad overkill if you are tiling over it isn't it?
Pour during an earthquake and it will be immaculate.
I wonder if you could use a concrete vibrator used to remove air bubbles.
Any stiff bristle brush will work. I used a long handled floor brush so i could get to the edges easily. Great result anyway!
So much building wisdom that you wouldn’t expect to learn about a portmanteau in the same video. Terrific.
Sort of a portwisdeo.
I love this guy's meticulousness.
Didn't use a spiked roller though
@@MrJFoster1984 You get around
@@SkillBuilder Likewise mate. Did my son contact you about advice on starting out in plumbing? His name is Nathaniel 👍
I can tell that your channel is gonna blow up. Your content is not only very detailed and informative, but clear and easy to take in. Oh yeah, and entertaining. Stud Pack has dialed in the triple threat of success on RUclips - informative, clear, and entertaining. Keep on, keepin' on 💪
They make an expansion foam that unrolls and you can spray 3m adhesive on the wall and just stick it on. Then cut off the excess after the leveler is dry. Quicker than cutting all those pieces around the walls.
What is it called/brand? Thx
Backer rod?
@@MarshallNator UZIN makes a nice expansion tape that goes down in seconds. Cost about 50 cents a foot. Also you might try the Uzin 170 self leveler and 888 patch. It killed Ardex in a side by side comparison on a job I did last year.
@@MarshallNator I have used Dow Sill Seal R-Unfaced Polyethylene Roll Insulation 3.5 inch sill gasket. $7.00 for a 50 foot roll. Contact glue or double sided tape to hold to wall.
You can also use spray foam and trim as needed.
Finding floor level with the screw trick was a great idea. I think I would leave them behind to help super refine the self-leveler and micro adjustments there after. You can always take the screws out later.
I'm aware that I am late to the party and this comment won't be very helpful for this job, but I figure the info I'm providing might be helpful to you guys in the future, so here it goes. First my credentials, Commercial / Residential Flooring Subcontractor for 30 years. Have done countless floors just like those and also much, much worse. I had a cringe moment when you talked about doing it true level, and the lowest point was at the rooms entrance, but then breathed a sigh of relief when you came back and changed your plains. Which was absolutely the right call. Really the biggest error I saw (mainly from inexperience) was your pouring barriers, and more specifically the width of them. The ones around the walls should have been made of 1/4 inch plywood, ripped to the width needed, then caulked if need be. But often simply using masking tape is good enough, as it bonds EXTREAMLY well to the latex primer that was applied to the floor. More importantly, it's strong enough to hold back the leveler, but weak enough to allow you to remove it once your floor has cured. Then a simple skim coat of thinset flooring patch around the walls fills any remaining gaps without the worry of it flowing because it can be applied much thicker. What you don't want to do is what you said at the end, and saw off the excess foam an leave that around the perimeter of your room, because that inevitably will be where the new flooring will get damaged in the future. Because you now have a soft substrate that someone could place a A-frame ladder leg onto, or perhaps drop something hard, and it absolutely can and will result in the tile breaking. Seen it many times cause by foam filled expansion joints, curtain highrise walls being poorly connected to slab and the list goes on. Its just bad practice to ever leave something softer than the subfloor to remain anywhere under a finished floor, regardless of how obscure a location you think it is, Murphy's Law says, if it can happen, it WILL HAPPEN. Eventually
Hey I appreciate this comment! I'm an inexperienced DIY'er ready to level about 250 sf of prepped slab with about a 1 1/4" slope where an existing tiled area meets up. I've been racking my brain about this issue because the top of the already tiled area is 3/4" below my highest point. Is this video saying that you can pour self leveler to achieve a smooth surface to tile which is not actually level? Also, your comment said you use masking tape instead of a barrier like plywood because it adheres to the primed floor surface and doesnt create a weak point in the substrate...does that mean you put some tape on the floor and wrap it partially up the wall, let it cure then just rip the exposed tape off instead of making a dam?
@@darknightsoul5150pretty sure he meant to use the masking tape to hold the plywood so you can easily remove it vs using the foam insulation.
He still has to put the base boards. It won’t be any issue.
If you are not using a spike roller, use a 3/8" knotch trowel to open up and close the self leveling. That is the best method I've found to make everything as level as possible, specially where 2 pours meet. Hope that helps.
I'm a retired contractor and very impressed with your work. You almost made me forget what a terrible dissapointment nearly every job was. Yes, folks usually choose the cheapest bid, so we are forced figure out ways to do it cheaper (if you want to work). Also when ppl cut corners, like not replacing the cabinetry or using cheaper materials, it somehow is reflected back to the GC. There was rarely a case where everyone left satisfied. This attention to detail is unlikely if not for a "how to" video.
I've done this many times...BEST INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO I HAVE EVER SEEN.....REASONS FOR EVERY MOVE.....SUPERB..
Thx Douglas 💪👍
Just found your channel yesterday, I'm hooked! Great to see a father and son working so well side by side. Those memories are priceless and the knowledge being passed down can't be attained any better way. Continue what you're doing, it's quality content the likes of which is becoming harder to find all the time.
Prep work is half the job ,but it is the difference between a good job ,and a bad job if it is not done right!!! Some contractors will take short cuts to make more money, but the customer will ultimately pay in the long wrong!!!! From a fellow contractor good job on the video, and your work ,and thanks for explaining in detail ,so people of all levels can understand, and by the way great attitude too!!!!!
Good video! Just a tip, if you run a small air compressor in a corner the vibrations will help the self leveler settle across the floor space. Also, you can use a rake with short tines to push it around quickly and that will help it find level between the pours. Occasionally you can end up with a small lip between the buckets if you don't spread it together.
I was thinking during the pour if there was a way to vibrate the slab. Even mentioned it to Jordan. Compressor is a great idea. My old Dewalt would be perfect. I will try it in the laundry room
A Bosch hammer drill set to hammer only with a dull chisel bit or larger drill bit and a sturdy block of wood to vibrate against works really good, I use that trick for exterior pours as well, on the forms and such.
Cool thx Jesse 👍
@@StudPack Use a spike roller. Will tickle out any bubbles from the pour, and leave a glass finish. With a 6-foot handle and a long arm, you might not even to even step into most rooms. If you do, wear a pair of spike-shoes.
If you rush it, then the walls will get splattered, so if that matters, take it slow or tape a roll of paper to the bottom 2 foot of the walls.
@@CiaranKing bingo. Right here this comment is how you make this project hit the last 2 percent of 100 percent level.
Wow...I was a contractor for
30 yrs; this is so impressive; awesome job....thx for sharing.
Thanks for watching Ty and thanks for the compliment 👍
You can really tell that he cares about the quality of his work and the customer's needs, too.
Nice job. As a carpenter I see a lot of folk's old DIY or "professionally done" hacks and it's a pleasure seeing someone do a job that I won't have to either clean up (literally AND figuratively) or do extra work to fix.
Thx again CC 👍👊
That's some Super head scratching detail work you put into the leveling of the bathroom floor. VERY, VERY NICE!!!!!!
but, that is what most people dont see when they employ a contractor to do work. all most people see, is, i went to work, came home and this is all you did, and it cost me this much
I'm a flooring contractor. That shower pan and your techniques were great. The self-leveling with foam was helpful also.
I'm always open to learn. Thanks for teaching me :-)
You got it Dr Leo thx 👍
I was scared when you were talking about some type of ramp at the door. Glad you changed your mind. It looks great.
I use a rake of a squeegee on a pole to get the material moved around where I need it instead of crawling around with a putty knife. You don't need to pick up material and move it you can just push it to where it needs to go to break the surface tension and get it to the perimeter's. You can also use it to level out uneven spots which you can see by the way the ceiling lights reflect off the wet material.
or you could use a porcupine roller.
Gonna be honest. The work is excellent but the quality of the video is just as good. Love it when people take pride in what they do. Thanks guys and happy new year.
Thx Tdog and happy 2021 to you and yours!🎉🎉
As an electrician I found this really interesting. It's great to see people that really care about finding the best way to do things. Watching someone explore with new products and make assumptions based on previous knowledge and explain their thought process is what I came to see.
Great camera work on the self leveling. We could see that it was as smooth as a baby's bottom
My house is on a concrete slab and I'm building a 21' x 16' kitchen space with 24" x 8" porcelain tile in the mix. I knew that one corner was low and started with just 2 bags of level mix that proved to be too little. I next added 4 bags and over estimated the self-leveling attributes here and created a huge high spot that needed to be broadly chiseled out, again. I watched lots of self leveling videos and then RUclips directed me to this perfectly produced video. I bought the laser level and found exactly where my low spots were, and how low they are. What a godsend this video is for me and what a well produced piece of work. THANK YOU!!!!
Smart. Nicely done. Curious about the sloped tiles on the edges -- look forward to seeing how you work it out.
Boy, that looks so professional! Beautiful. I am a homeowner and watched others on utube and have noticed someone using golf spike shoes and a spiked floor roller for going over the entire floor smoothing it.
Keep up the great work. Love how you explain everything!!!!!!!
I love hearing you two interact with each other. :-) Thank you! Keep it up!
I'm no pro, but I just did something very similar to this at my house. One thing I added that I didn't see in your video is an extra bucket of water about 8" deep. After mixing a bucket of leveler, I drop my mixer in the extra bucket, give it a quick spin, and that keeps any buildup from accumulating and drying. Cleanup of the mixing paddle is much easier that way. Plus, if you need just a touch extra water, you can steal it from this bucket.
Great idea thx Mark👍👍
Portmanteau! First time I added to my vocabulary watching diy vids on RUclips, which coincidentally is another portmanteau. They're everywhere!
Cool word right?! It’s also a suitcase. Two halves make a whole... just like the words do
This is a great video. I spent many years pouring self leveling cement on commercial projects. You did a great job. We would save time by using weather stripping for our dams as well as 10oz Cove base adhesive to fill in any gaps (this worked better than caulk). Also, if you have extra hands…you can wear spiked shoes or cleats and walk on the self leveling material to work it in.
Looks like you’re doing it right! I was curious to see if the ramp at the threshold would have worked out unnoticed.
Every tile job I have done has been a learning experience... You can plan ahead all you like but at some point you have to scrap the plan and play it by ear to make it work... This is a great example of how pros work and will result in a beautiful job without a middle-of-the-night-toe stubbing transition!
This guy makes this look easy. It isn’t easy, it’s tedious and physical working on your knees. Great video.
Get a lot of work done on your knees, eh?
I’m impressed he’s doing it without knee pads. I wouldn’t try.
Some great advice here particularly preparing the floor before pouring levelling compound by 'daming' the room. A while back i was working on on an old office block and the contactor poured dozens of bags onto a large entrance floor to level off for tiling. What they failed to do was fill the gaps along one wall and a huge amount poured down into the basement straight into the main electrical cupboard covering all the main fuse boards, contacts, wiring, everything. A real mess. The whole building had to be shut down whilst everything replaced at HUGE cost to the contractor.
I’ll bet that was expensive. Local drywall guy was rapid setting a patch with a heat gun on third floor commercial. Heat gun triggered adjacent fire sprinkler. At last count over $100k in damages on a $150 repair 😳
Man cant wait to remodel my bathroom love doing all the work myself thanks to this videos.
make sure you prime so it doesnt go drummy
I used self leveling mortar in a 13×20 kitchen, let it dry for the weekend. The homeowners loved it and wanted to use a multicolored epoxy coating on it. Turned out incredible and unique looking! I personally did not do the epoxy but I have been learning to do it and the possibilities are endless.
I hear ya.... we loved the look of the cured SLU 👍
This is my first video of yours and just want to say the video editing and production is nice really nice
Great detail. Will make a much smoother tile job as you said. The only thing I'd have done different is lay in one of those electric in floor heating systems! I have done a few showers in tile and did a very similar method when laying the mud floor using a level line on the wall and screeds.
Great job on the floor, sometimes in life projects dictate how it should be done...can't find some things in a book 👍👌
A rubberized shower pan is needed before applying cement. Membrane is more used for fusing cracks.
Really enjoying watching this bathroom come together!
Ive been in the remodeling biz for 42 years. This dude is a PRO! I would hire him anyway. I like his attention to detail and concern to do the job the right way. I've laid alot of tile myself and done bathrooms, kitchens, basements etc. Its hard to find good guys. I got a tile guy I use luckily who is a pro like this guy but its hard to find guys like that. And yea like a lot of guys are saying nobody wants to pay a pro top dollar. Too many scabs in the business that will low ball you. Nice work man!
I’m a flooring contractor of 25 years and I have no problems with you’re installation method. But for the love of God please put some knee pads on. Ha Ha....good video!!
You got it Thomas thx!!
Things like knee pads and right level of PPE are how you keep working for 25y. Took me a while to appreciate that.
Thank god someone else commented on that. I learned a vital lesson 30 years ago in the Army bounding and moving under fire running 3 to 5 seconds and taking cover by dropping to a knee and then to the prone is hell on the knees. It took a Global War on Terror for the Army to say we should protect our Soldier's knees. Well as I worked with GCs and doing flooring and anything else with having to work on my knees I always wear something to protect my knees and after 30 years in service, I can still work without knee pain. But, we all know that there are still people out there that will have to learn by doing not getting told.
At some point, knees stop needing pads.
But by then, you can't feel them anymore, so...
I love watching hard working benevolent professionals like your self 🙏!
I've been a remodeler for over 40 years. You do a great job! Just curious why you didn't pull the cabinets and carry new flooring wall to wall to allow for future cabinet replacements? Also, what kind of camera do you use, the clarity is fantastic.
I was wondering the same thing. It's going to be annoying for the homeowner to have the current cabinet be so low - I speak from experience, because the one in my rental is the same way. You can feel it every time you use the sink.
Probably because he home owner opted not to do that. Up to the homeowner.
@@brassmule In my view standard is too low for my back. I add 1.5" extra. Setting below the floor and tile is a non starter. Yank it all.
Adds several cost factors to the estimate: R&R cabinet, countertop, additional mat'l costs, increases labor costs. Likely the HO was given the estimates for different options and selected based on their budget. Was it short term thinking? Maybe, but we are finding that HO is considering that the next owner is likely to change things anyway (gone are the days where people keep the house "forever".
Should of pulled the cabinets now the toe kicks are at a minimum height, it doesn't pay not to gut the room when doing a remodel, insulation could be bad, there will be regrets
Sometimes a homeowner only wants to pay for so much. Good thing most of my homeowners are always willing to go the extra step to a more perfect job. Instead of putting a foam strip around the edges i just use spray foam, it does the same thing just without all the extra labor. They also make a maybe 20" roller with about a thousand spikes coming off of it and a handle for rolling over self leveler, it helps in the leveling process.
To everybody in here, saying, Oh i wish there was contractors like you in my area, blah blah blah! There is! You just think there quote is too expensive or a rip off, or you are getting done over. No you not, 9 times out of 10, you will get ripped off by the guy that is cheap.
word!
So true!
pshhhh I've had friends and customers pay for the high bid contractor and they still don't do quality work. It's a gamble without word of mouth or an example to look at.
I couldn't have said it better.
Yep.The cheap guy is clueless 90% of the time. Inexperienced or just plain stupid and unqualified . If they can’t price the job correctly it’s doubtful they’ll know anything about the required building science or installation best-practices either, or care. That said, paying top dollar won’t automatically get you the crew from “this Old House”. The remodeling industry is full of high markup high sales pressure charlatans who ALSO don’t give a crap about installation best practices. Buyer beware - you want this guy, no Llowball Joe and not Slick Salesman Sam.
nice work guys. i work for a general contractor am a finish carpenter and cabinet maker. man i wish we had tile guys like you. the high dollar homes we work on deserve work like this.
theres still guys out there like these guys..question is, do the customers wanna be cheap or pay for their experience? Lol
@@RawTakes all we do is high dollar custom stuff so i dont see why not. there must be a reason why we use the guys we do i just don't see it . good ole boy system i guess
This is my first video I've seen from you, and I'm so glad I found your videos... I greatly enjoyed every second, I love how detailed you and your helper is, and how you make sure your quality is top notch... I as a independent contractor myself pride myself of my work, and always put quality first... much love from central Florida, and I enjoy and can't wait to see another great video.
Yea these guys a great i think in time this will be a huge channel go back and watch their old stuff to you'll like it👍
Thx mad max👍👍
Where are you in Central Florida Shane Barrows?
Hi, just wanted to say that you remind me a lot of my father (passed away about 10 years ago). He was as hard working and resourceful as you are. I really love the relationship you keep with your son. Very inspiring and supportive. You guys have my admiration. oh, the construction videos are great too :=)
I used to tape my drain so it wasnt full of junk
We always just put it with one of the many fountain drink cups sitting around the job.
My only suggestion would be to use a spiked roller when laying self levelling compound.
Dude, this guy is a genius. I'm not worthy...
Great attention to detail!!! There are two ways to do anything... The right way.... and... The right way.
Thx Brian 👍
Great personality for RUclips! Please keep up the content!
I saw Cheap contractor putting tiles without leveling the floor. Good job and showing good example to us.
As a DIYer watching this video is a strong reminder what you get when you hire a professional!
Super agree
Hi Paul. I've been enjoying your videos. Keep up the good work. I did
a whole 5000 SF house using Gypcrete to level floors and cover radiant
heating tubes. I used a sub that specialized in it. He had a big mixer
he'd bring to the site and used a pump and hoses to distribute it
throughout the house. To set the height, he used a laser level and set
nails to the exact height of the finished floor, much like you did with
your screws. When he poured, he covered the tops of the nails with the
slurry and left the nails in place as a guide, so they knew they had the
correct thickness and everything was level.
Cool thx John 👍
Great work! So cool you get to work together.
Man. This is the level of workmanship that I strive for and can appreciate.
Thx mike👍
As a retired builder I always tried to establish and maintain control. You may not use those words but you certainly know the concept. Fine job sir.
Thank you sir👍
What a pleasant and well spoken professional man. He has a very likeable nature and I wish him (and his crew) a prosperous and happy journey on RUclips and elsewhere.
Fantastic how to technique .. explains . Why he is doing ..what he going to do ..and its significance ..He would be a great guy to work for ..or have a beer with Camera guy needs a thumbs up also ..
Thx Mark!!
Happy new year fellas. Leveler turned out good. I usually bring a squeegee to that fight. Package say “self” leveler but I like to poke it along with squeegee. Looks great.
How much tamping down did you do with mortar bed. Just curious?
Jerry from Fresno
Yeah it does need some help getting into places. Tamping ... not much. I don’t like to compact it too much. Thx Jerry!
Great video .. I got a bad slab that is crack and peaks in certain areas... Would be better off trying to grind it down to level off or try self level concrete the area ...
Jeeeeeesus, this is what it looks like when an absolute *artist* gets to work - ALSO - camera work and editing was super on point, really amazing content fellas! SUBBED!
One thing I have done with self-leveler is to use a notched trowel to spread the liquid rather than a putty knife. The ridges created by the notches will instantly collapse and flatten out but you can spread a lot very quickly and push a wave of leveler into corners and hard to reach areas where it will just do what it's supposed to do.
One thing I'm curious about though, how did you keep a quarter inch depth throughout? Was the mix partially set up? I find that it will always slowly migrate to the low end, filling that up as it attempts to self-level, no matter what I do. Anyway, good job. Contrary to popular opinion, most of us contractors, (those in it for the long haul) care deeply, or we wouldn't still be in business.
Thx Daryl. We didn’t have any issues with the SLU flowing readily like that. Once we had coverage in an area we moved to the next. I used 5.25 qts water per bag of Mapei mix
Wear cleats when messing with a self leveler. There's ALWAYS something that needs touched up at the other end of the room. :/
Didn’t want to ruin my son’s golf shoes😂 I’ll get some next time
You can also pick up a spike roller to move produt around and remove air bubbles.
Or set up a good plank as worksurface across the diagonal, just make sure it has enough clearance
Truly impressed with his well rounded education.
Indeed! Anyone who knows and correctly uses "portmanteau" (inter alia) has demonstrated a surfeit of sagacity well beyond the average bear.
Can't wait till see you finish that bathroom and start a new project to learn something new
Just one point. to exedite the edges you used foam. instead, use the spray foam along the border. Dries quick. use a knife to cut the overage once the floor is dried.
Glad you are not using the pan. I'm a big boy. I have stepped on some of those pans and they gave way, so that isn't going to work. Also, you could be showering with your four favorite girl friends., and cause a leak.
Preach, brother Johnson. Spread the good word.
@@lucash1980 LOL
Yes...btdt. it's fun to find level and see what's going on but on a bath floor flat is typically the best. Toilet areas r one exception. Cabinets have toekicks to make up difference. Good job
Thx Gibson👍
Finally a craftsman that knows what he's doing.
One of the best RUclips videos. Thank you for sharing you process.
Why do ppl get these center drain showers when a single slope linear drain would be much easier??
Because they're not the ones doing it....lol
I'm currently remodeling my master bath as I get time. I'm doing a linear drain to minimize plumbing poking down into my entry way. The drain was likely already there for this remodel. He would have had to dig into the slab a good bit to counter sink a linear drain or raise the shower floor up a good bit. Prob the same reason he didn't pull the cabinets when he did the floor. Owner's call.
Great to hear the thought process as it happens - years of experience clicking over there :-)
These are the type of jobs I hate with a passion.
Find another trade. This is what a craftsman loves.... but overkill with the screws though....
These are the jobs where you can charge very high, and there’s plenty of them with old houses.
@@mitchmarostica5772 Yes, I absolutely agree, but I think I would rather pass on this job and move onto something else. At my age I have decided there is no point in doing what I don't like doing. Its only money. Someone else is welcome to it.
@@mandatethis8024 No , craftsmen love doing complete remodels or new construction, not remodeling one bathroom in the middle of a finished home that is occupied. You obviously have no idea what you are talking About so stop telling people what to do with their lives .
@@markme4 i do it all the time , 40 years of this shit, that I love , aren’t you a peach.
Very refreshing to see a contractor that knows what he’s doing and actually cares about the quality of his work
Thank you Scott 👍👍
Great job! Haha you never expect to hear “portmanteau” when watching a bathroom refinishing vid! Nowadays they call those words “blends”. I guess the younger generation couldn’t handle all those letters...and sounding refined!
I had to look up 'portmanteau' to finish a crossword puzzle once. Only reason I knew what one is. =P
I did similar work for about 15 years, until the arthritis in my hands got too much, often times fixing things done by "professionals." One thing I like about the way you do things is you're not afraid to reevaluate and take a better direction. Shows you're constantly assessing the quality of your work. Too many people, pros included, just bull through because "that's the way it's done," without stopping to really think about all the variables. And when you're not doing new construction, it's ALL variables!
Thx Todd! You’re so correct 👍
I wish my Dad had actually *taught* me stuff like this, rather than telling me to hold the flash-light better and constantly yelling at me..
I feel ya. As a dad in HVAC it's really hard to teach my 20 yr old son anything when he can't go 2 friggin seconds without checking his GD phone. I will literally be talking to him on troubleshooting something and I look up and he's looking down at his phone... He's back working at Taco Bell now...
Maybe if you would have held the flashlight better you would have been promoted.
@@tombalboni2143 thats unfortunate. My dad (HVACR tech) mostly did what the poster mentioned to me. Ended up just going to tech school for it, now i work more than my dad does. Been doing HVAC service work for almost 5 years now, down in SW FL.
@@tombalboni2143 exactly! You can’t teach a kid that has no interest in learning! On the other hand, if you have a dad that doesn’t really want to spend the time to teach you anything more than what they want you to know just to help them. In a lot of cases you can still learn a lot from just watching what your Dad doing! I know, my own Dad was a cabinet maker and I was put to work at age 5 running after tools at first being a gofer! As I got older then taught to use power equipment just enough to make cabinets doors and build drawers. Dad would never teach me how to design kitchens or how to layout the cabinetry for sizes to fit a wall and so forth. But I picked it up by watching him design and layout the kitchens on paper. Spend enough time paying close attention you can pick up a lot of information you can use yourself too! My Dad just loved belittling me all my life while he was alive, told me many times I would never amount to anything and never be the man he was! Well I’m glad to say my Dad was wrong. I surpassed my Dad’s skill level considerably over the years. Even building kitchens in the street of dream homes my Dad never had the skills for that! But I did have to over come years of being put down and belittled and rebuild my own confidence what I was really capable of doing on my own first! Unfortunately I don’t think some parents know or even care of the damages they caused their kids when they put down their own kids and belittle their kids. That sticks with kids their whole life many times. Getting over that negativity in your mind from what a parent tells you certainly can be the hardest thing you can ever have to do on your own! Can be done, but not easy! My dad been dead 30 years and I can still hear him telling me I have stupid ideas and I’ll never amount to anything. Fortunately though, I now know that’s not true! Just took some time and a lot of effort to get that limitations from my Dad out of my mind!
@@tombalboni2143 Boy, I hear ya. Not just the kids either. At my jobs it became necessary to have everyone leave their phones in their car or in the truck. Every time I'd walk the job half (at least) of the crew would be on the phone. I'd be sure that everyone would have my or a foreman's number so everyone could be reached in an emergency. The amount of work done in a day improved dramatically.
That trick with the screws is a classic, but I've never seen anyone else use it. Nicely explained even if you didn't end up using them. I just use a long level and a straight plank to set them: start at the entrance, put in your screws right besides the plank, verify by putting the level on top, then do the longest diagonal from the entrance, then the shorter diagonals etc.