Motorcycle clutch problems (all types)
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- Опубликовано: 29 май 2015
- How to adjust a motorcycle clutch. A comprehensive video showing how to adjust ALL the various types (click the time in the description) of motorcycle clutch adjustments. This video applies to almost all makes and models of motorcycles.
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0:09 Hydraulic Clutch bleeding and operation
1:57 Cable operated clutch lever adjustment
4:39 Cable operated clutch mid cable adjuster
5:06 Set screw right side clutch adjuster
7:58 Harley Davidson style clutch adjustment
10:40 Why Harley's got the reputation as oil leakers
#motorcycle #clutch #slipping #diy 
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For anyone watching that has a clutch that won't engage. Adjust it the way he teaches you, start the bike and let it run for a bit. After its fully warmed up turn it off and pull the clutch in, drop it into first while pushing it. Keep repeating from step 1 that until you feel it roll, it might feel stiff that's okay. Do that back and forth a few times. Release the clutch and pull it back in, if it won't engage again just repeat the process a few more times. Then start it, and pop it into first with the clutch in and by doing that I got it to free up. Now my new Lifan 125 is ridable :).
This happened to me and was just a big headache, I hope I could help someone out.
I have a lifan 125 also so the story is whenbi got the engine off amazon and installed it the engine ran fine but the clutch slipped when i hadnt even put 10 feet on the clutch it slipped bad adjustment didnt work either so i replaced the clutch turns put the old clutch somehow🤔had a bent steel plate so i teplaxed the clutch long story short the brand new clutch slips still😐 help im trying to adjust but it wont work😔
if you are still active , do you know if this works on a pitbike motor?
This is a good video. I was a little amused by the "debatable action" described at 1:19. "..... The liquid moves back and forth to keep the proper "tension" on that "push rod" which actuates the pressure plate."
This well deported intelligent gentleman should not call himself "the junkman", though I can fully understand that he sees beauty in all " the junk" he handles, He loves his work and goes into great detail. Thank you for uploading your experience.
The unique vídeo that properly explains and show how to do the adjustments... solved my clutch problem! Thanks a lot !!!!
I have a new video that explains even more. You should check that out.
Good info. This is what I need. Thanks!!
That was some good info. Thanks
Excellent Instruction !! Thank You.
Thanks
Regarding flushing brake fluid..hydraulic fluid..a mechanic friend of mine told me something that made sense, so obvious i can't believe i didn't "see" it. The brake fluid in the calipers is so close to the brakes that it gets hot. Heat breaks down the fluid, it turns brown or black and has particles in it, then it can freeze up the caliper piston. Duh i said to myself!! Great videos!!
This is very true. This is why even in cars, brake fluid should be changed once in a while, but especially in motorcycles.
Good info. Thanks Man
Just great instruction thanks.
Nice sir..im going to try it😁😁😁
Good how to. Keep it up
I'm riding today because of ur info,,,, thnx
Good to hear!
(DRZ 400 SM) I also installed the Righteous Stunt Clutch shorty which is suppose to be even easier to pull has a needle bearing in the perch and adjusted everything up. But for some reason it's pretty hard to pull. I did some trouble shooting with no success. I can't figure it out then installed it on my friends bike and super easy. What the hell. Really frustrated. Any insight why my clutch is so hard to pull is there something else going on. Thanks Mate.
You know"em all,Very Good
What size is that keeper pin that holds the arm in the case?
7:22 use the ring end of the spanner to avoid slipping off the nut and rounding it abit... 👍
We call it the Box end but you are correct
Good afternoon Junk man, I have a 96 Vulcan vn 750. I purchased my bike a year ago. I noticed that my grab point for the clutch is almost 2/3 rds of the way out as you release the handle. am I able adjust the clutch in any way they you have described to achieve a grab point further back on the handle release? or is it time for replacement of the friction plates?
thank you for any advice on this matter.
2/3 is about right, sounds like everything is good.
thejunkman
Thank you for taking the time to reply.. :-) Being new to riding just a year these tolarances leave me guessing sometimes?.
That is understandable. It takes some time to get a feel for this. Even the manual is not explicit about it.
Hey thanks it worked now I need to break it in
Quick question. For the clutch adjustment screw on a 50cc engine. Could i put a 0.05mm piece of aluminium between the bolt and the piece it's pushing against for a precise adjustment with still some play in it?
Doesn't need to be that exact. The clearance is to allow for expansion when the clutch heats up.
Sir can I ask you a question how often to change my oil after how many miles or how many hours on these Chinese pit bike to change the oil?
Well this was a race engine for me. I changed it after ever 3 races.
Can you adjust the transition spot of a hydraulic clutch handle? or is that only possible with a cable clutch?
Only with a cable clutch.
+thejunkman thanks bud, your video was a lot of help. 👍👍
Hey bud. I have a 1995 KTM 250 sx. When riding and I pull clutch in and RPM drops , it stalls. Could this be from clutch too tight creating drag or something? Thanks
More than likely
I need help i cant get the clutch adjusted properly i turned the screw in and the clutch still slips i turn it out alot it doesnt even stall when i put it in gear it just jjmps and rolls the engine is brand new the oil is to the clutch doesnt even have a mile on it and i have the clutch cable adusted properly to
81 Honda cb900c, shifts fine and seems to run great. I ride it a couple blocks and once I pull the clutch in the Rpm’s rev high around 3-4,000 rpm’s. When I take off it’s perfectly fine again, if I sit for a bit it slowly goes back down to normal idle at a stop, this only happens when it’s warm. Iv read it could be vacuum leaks which i did find or the clutch might need adjusting but it feels good. Carbs are rebuilt and set to stock, has anyone experienced this???
I have a yamaha raider 2015 and everytime i put it into gear the bike stalls. What do i have to do to fix that? I believe it has a hydraulic clutch. Whats the adjustment that needs to be done on one of those?
Hydraulic systems are self adjusting, just have to make sure there is no air in the system. See my brake bleeding video for help with that.
hello Sir i need some advise about my motorbike yamaha 125 vega sometimes from neutral when i enter first gear its wiggle and jump then stop ..what do you think the problem of my motorbike i want to apologize bec my english is not that good ..i hope somehow u understand my concern ..
+Emelinda Sanchez unfortunately I don't understand.
Hey buddy, great video! So I have a 1996 Kawasaki Vulcan vn1500 that I recently changed the clutch plates on, both steel and friction. My problem now is that the clutch lever wont move at all, cant pull it in! Any suggestions? Thanks!
Did you install the pressure plate correctly? How about the throwout bearing and pushrod? Remember any or all the spacers on the pressure plate springs? I am not familiar with the bike so I can't help you much more. Sorry.
By the way, its a hydraulic clutch
+dbergant1 remove the slave cylinder and see I you can move the lever and watch the piston move in and out. That will by elp narrow no t down.
Thanks junkman, will do!
good morning i have a 1988 yamaha xt350 its not going into any gear other than first and neutral how can you help me?
+VINCY TWIST is this while it is running?
When it's on or off is the same problem. And the clutch isn't working anymore to
Well it is pretty common for shifting to only be neutral and 1st when the bike is not running and stationary because the gears need to turn to engage when the shift drum moves the forks back and forth. So the clutch is not dis-engaging? Meaning it lurches when running. This could be a few reasons. Notched clutch basket and hub not letting the plates move laterally. The shift drum and forks could be worn so bad that they don't slide the gears far enough on the shaft to engage. Also the shift pawl on the end of the drum could be badly worn and not engaging to rotate the drum. Its rare but the shift de-tent spring could be broken.
How do you put that screw in it came out
I have an 82 silverwing interstate and when your accelerating to merge or overtake the rpm jump up and take a second to catch is that a clutch in need of an adjustment or is there a bigger issue at hand thanks in advance
Does it have a wet multi plate type clutch? Then yes, this is likely your problem. Plates could be worn out as well.
Thanks bud I appreciate it
I have a 86 virago 700. at times, when pulling clutch prior to starting, it feels like it is in gear, any advice would be great, thanks
Well when the transmission oil is cold it is going to drag on the plates which will feel like it is in gear. Its normal, unless your cable is stretched and the pushrod is not traveling far enough to break the plates free of each other.
thejunkman Thanks for your time. Cable is a year old. Will try your instructions on cable and down on motor. Sure appreciate your help!!
Forgot to add that shifting is slightly noisy and slightly difficult at times
The hard shifting can be from a mis-adjusted cable (stretched over that year), clutch basket and hub have small notches developing that the plate are hanging up on, or the type of transmission oil you are using. If its a shared sump there is not much you can do about the last part.
How do you adjust the hydraulic clutch on a honda vtx 1800c, my clutch isn't disengaging all the way, it has new clutches, new friction plates, new actuator rod, rebuilt slave cylinder, rebuilt master cylinder and 100% fluid flush
You have air in the line. Hydralicsare self adhusting provided everything else is assembled correctly.
hey to all wondering if I can get some advice.
I have a 2002 aprilia rs 125 I've been restoring but never ridden after re building the motor iv realised the clutch won't disengage ( holding the clutch leader in , in 1st gear the bike moves ever so slightly ) . is this just because the clutch actuation pin is needing adjustment?
thanks in advance :D
It is possible there is some adjustment needed at the actuator pin, however some drag can be normal depending on the oil type used in the transmission as well. Since this bike is a 2 stroke you could try using ATF in the gearbox as it tends to make wet clutches run better with less drag versus a motor oil. Also you could have some wear in the clutch basket or hub can contribute to the plates being not able to move laterally and that can cause drag.
thejunkman I have a 4 stroke 125 Aprilia and it miss fires and sort of jerks but when I slightly pull the cutch it is back to normal. What could be the cause of this. Loose clutch cable? The jam nut is way out away from the lever and so Is the adjuster. I have a feeling I need to tighten it but also taking into consideration some free play. I could be wrong.
A miss fire has really nothing to do with the clutch. That is a fuel or ignition problem. I would have to see what you mean to understand what is going on. However on the adjuster being screwed all the way out means the cable is stretched or the plates are very thin.
On a hydraulic clutch is not adjustable?
Mine grips in the very end.
The clutch plates are ok, and the fluid was changed too.
No, not technically. The only adjustment you can make is at the lever for the slight amount of free play before the set-screw presses on the piston in the master cylinder. Grabbiness of the plates can be affected by the fluid type, wear in the basket or hub (notching), and the friction material used. This is assuming all other parts are in good shape.
Hi, there is no screw adjuster inside my 2001 FZS 1000 (01 to 05 same), I have changed brand new Barnett clutch & steel plates, and springs, now I can't change to neutral, and also clutch is dragging, I had tried all cable and actuator adjustment but still the same, what other thing I can do? Oh, I also filed the basket teeth, so not a sticky clutch problem.
+Motto not being familiar with that bike, what does the manual say about adjusting the few play? Could the push rod be sticking or some plates installed in correctly?
The plates are installed correctly.
+Motto what does the manual say for adjustments?
After lots of searching, I found out it was the Barnett's clutch that causes the drag, I will however stick to OEM clutch in future.
"Barnett clutch plates have a reputation of locking up really well, esp
for drag race applications, but also creating drag that makes it near
impossible to find neutral with the engine running. You may not have
Barnett's but you have the same problem. I suggest either living with
it, or going to another brand of clutch plates. EBC and KG clutch
factory plates do not have the same problem."
Do you know where you could get a replacement center set screw?
Get one for any year XR/CRF80 it uses the same mechanism. Or match it up at the hardware store in the set screw section.
@@thejunkman any chance you have a link? I searched online but had no luck? Any tips on taking out the old screw if it's stripped? Someone stole my bike a couple weeks ago & I just got it back but its messed up bad. I'm currently trying to restore it to it's former glory
Just look up any Honda OEM parts supplier (like Partzilla) and look up an XR80 then go to the right hand engine cover diagram, you will find it there. Look at my other videos for how to remove a screw if it is stripped.
@@thejunkman thank you very much!
can I adjust a 2007 zx14r clutch? it is hydraulic. They have shorty levers on it. So I don't think they are allowing the full range of squeeze to happen
That is the beauty of a hydraulic setup, no adjustment needed as it is automatic for the lash on the throw out bearing/bushing. Your problem might be air in the system (see my brake bleeding video) OR the basket or hub is worn and the plates are hanging up. There is a small set screw to adjust the position of the lever in relation to the grip, that pushes on the piston but you want that to be just touching the master cylinder piston is all.
So I can adjust the master clutch cylinder plunger out to push the lever further out with that screw? I do hope its just the clutch basket.
No, the plunger is not adjustable. You want it to move all the way in and out from stop to stop, this allows the fluid to move back and forth to run the slave cylinder fully. You may have air in the system.
I have a 94 Honda CB1000 and I can not figure out how to adjust the clutch for the life of me...can you help with any advice? It's "the big one" if that helps at all.
This is a trick question. You have a hydraulic clutch.
thejunkman No its not a trick question..I know that it's a hydraulic clutch but the bike was unfortunately dropped and the clutch lever broke so it was replaced with an aftermarket one and it's not engaging until it basically hits the handle. I don't have much experience with hydraulic clutches, the bike was recently bought, which is why I asked you since you seem very knowledgeable! Is there a way to adjust the lever on this type of clutch? If so could you please give me some advice?
In your video you mention hydraulic clutches and nobody else on the Web seems to know what the heck they are talking about, and it's hard to find information on an older import like this, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for your time and I apologize if you thought it was a trick question. Regards!
Hydraulic clutches need no adjustment because they are self adjusting being fluid filled. There is only possibly an adjustment for how far in or out the handle is to fit different hands but that has NOTHING to do with the actual operation. Sounds like the slave and master cylinder need to be bled. I have a video on bleeding brakes that you can watch. A hydralic clutch works just like the brake system.
Ok thank you, I'll give that a try! One more question though, and I believe that this is common sense but just to be sure I'm going to ask anyways (sorry for bugging you!) I just checked the fluid in the reservoir and it seems very low to me, there are no "fill to.." markers either...but being that low (barely covering the bottom with the bike at an angle) would affect the operation like it would with a brake system also, right?
So how do you change the engagement point on a hydraulic clutch?
+David Bartz you don't, it is done automatically. You just need to make sure that there is no air in the system just like with braking systems
so how do you adjust the clutch with the hydraulic
You don't. They self adjust. All is required is the lever play be correct for the piston in the master cylinder.
Hydrological adjustments