6 Practical Drill bit Sharpening Hacks !!! [Subtitle]
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- Опубликовано: 17 май 2024
- Introducing 6 ways to sharpen steel drill bits.
Click here for the plan
jsk-koubou.stores.jp/
0:00 [Overview of drill polishing and grinder preparation]
4:32 [How to sharpen straight lines]
9:18 [How to sharpen straight lines using a jig]
10:40 [How to sharpen a cone]
13:55 [How to sharpen candles]
15:42 [How to sharpen a woodworking drill]
16:45 [How to sharpen a pilot hole drill]
Surface sharpening jig
• How to Sharpen Drill B...
how to make a woodworking drill
• Convert a drill bit to...
How to make a pilot hole drill
• Make a "Drill bit" for...
How to make a pocket hole jig
• Amazing!! Pocket Hole ... 
Хобби
This video has subtitles and explanations.
Please turn on subtitles.
I was watching and didn't understand. With subtitles it's maybe better. Will restart.
As usual. As expected. One best way to teach.
A noble way to learn: Watch and see, recognise, understand and memorize.
Apply and you'll become wiser again. Because applied knowledge becomes wisdom.
Probably my most eagerly awaited videos are by JSK-koubu. No need for English as beautifully filmed and with gestures explains what he's doing.
Well done - that is very helpful. I broke my pocket hole drill bit a few days ago, so now I have a perfect excuse to try and sharpen it! Thank you!
Thank you for the explanation, I was convinced to buy new.
And another incredible talented man! Thank you kind Sir JSK!❤
Just noticed that when I see JSK, I skip all the others
Congratulations!.. Excellent video in every way!.. The best I have seen on this matter!.. Thank you
El gran maestro de lo impecable!!! Gracias por tus enseñanzas🙏
Thank you. You gave very important information ❤
perfect teaching, Thanks.
really really nice! amazing control and technique.
Seing your video, I wondered if there is any use in sharpening drills with hard metal "cutting" edges for stone/concrete. Any idea?
Excelente tutorial maestro, excelente información sobre el afiliado de brocas,mi hermano es tornero/fresador/ mandrinador, afila las brocas para metal, en un esmeril normal y corriente, a mano alzada y a ojo, cortan como de fábrica, gracias por compartir tanta información y conocimientos, un saludo cordial y por supuesto un merecido like desde Narón (Galicia)👍🤓😜
the best drillbit sharpening and modifying ive'd every seen' its very accurate and precise. nice video👍👍👍👍👍
Да, но даже микрометр не помог, что бы работали обе режущие части. Работает только одна. Спираль стружки, выходит с одной стороны.
i really hate grinding wheels, i usually use beltgrinder, grit36 is supreme
very cool to see someone also doing the flat top edge, quite literally any socalled expert will round the top rather. great minds think alike, back when i learned to grind drills i quickly realized that flattening it rather than rounding had major benefits. i was also very confused how the drills i sharpened were better than freshly made high quality drill bits, i was never sure if it was really true, also very cool to see it proven.
this video touches on a subject they never taught me at metalworking school, and outperforms any other expert video ive ever seen with concise and perfect production quality. haleluja.
Sensacional !!!
Abraços do Brasil 🇧🇷
Perfection, as each videos
Congratulations
Thanks you master, great video.❤❤❤
Огромное спасибо за ролик!!!
대단한 경력 기능 잘 보았습니다
Excelente, como todos sus proyectos y videos.
I've learned to sharpen drills by hand quite a while back. There's no magic, only a simple wrist movement.
After i joined my local makerspace it surprised me how nobody believed i could sharpen a drill without making it worse.
So i had to show them how to sharpen dull or broken drill bits, of which they had many.
"So i had to show them how to sharpen dull or broken drill bits, of which they had many."
Part of it is a failure to select and use correct spindle rates for drill material / workpiece material combinations (explains the prevalence of blunt drills wherever you go) and only part of it is an inability to sharpen drills... One other thing is that "other trades" are permitted access to grinders that ought to be used exclusively for drill/toolbit sharpening. So, you pitch up at the pedestal / floor grinder and it's got grooves in it, the corners have huge radii on them. No good for sharpening or point thinning/relieving... So you say bugger it, and pop the drill back in the rack...
I used to carry a diamond dresser in my pocket for a little light wheel dressing. (never lend them, by the way, if a guy hasn't got one, there's a likelihood he'll destroy yours, and not even realize...) Avoid heavy dressing of the workshop wheel with the Huntingdon dresser until Friday, the day you throw your overalls into the laundry bin... Unless you're happy with a liberal coating of aluminium oxide dust, long term...
Great instructions! By the way, where did you buy the New Pic-Test gauge? It's getting harder to find good quality tools in Canada, especially in metric, so I'd like to look into Japanese suppliers.
I bought it on Amazon.
amzn.to/3y9n7SJ
Молодец, мастер своего дела 👍
チゼルつけるのコツが入りますよね💦 樹脂加工良くしてたので刃先を思い切り殺して 熱であけてました🔥
樹脂にはローソク研ぎで加工すると割れにくく綺麗に空くと聞いたことがあります。
まだ未確認ですが参考にしてください
I was surprised you didnt make more jigs to those exact angle duplicate grinding time and time again to accommodate thecvarious points on thevdrill bits. As there are several angles and styles to deal with and also you didn't address heat build up while grinding the bits. But I did like the video for showing the reasons for various drill bit tip shapes. I have tried doing it without a jig of some sort but I didn't have the right touch and also I wasn't aware of the thinning of the point that may have been were I went wrong as well. I like it when you showed how to make a drill bit with the extended center for the Kregg Jig jointing style.
They did dip the drills into water periodically to keep it cool after each grinding operation. It was shown near the beginning.
Gratidão por compartilhar conhecimento...
All good tips, as a retired toolmaker spent many hours sharpening drills by hand. Always thinned the web it can be done with the edge of the grinding wheel. Only tip I saw that should always be avoided is the drilling of sheet metal, never hold it with your hand clamp it down. Had a toolmaker off almost a year after a piece grabbed and climbed up the bit and sliced his hand open.
"the drilling of sheet metal" Well... Making holes sheet metal with a conventional two flute drill was never considered a clever thing to do, and a common piece of advice for drilling in general is "You can hold the workpiece by hand if you can break the drill bit by hand... A good basic rule...
The problem with drilling sheet metal with a twist drill is that the point penetrates the material before the lip corner enters the material, so there's nothing supporting and centralising the drill bit. That's why you get oddly shaped holes, when drilling sheet metal. (that, and badly off hand sharpened drill bits...
Anyway... If a more suitable tool is not available... (Rotabroach, Rotobor, hole saw, punch laser, other)
Try "rag drilling" set up your drilling machine correctly to position the hole where you want it, and start drilling, but don't penetrate, leave a dimple, then... get some squares of rag. (Denim's good ) a bit bigger than the hole size, and interpose them between the drill bit and the workpiece, then drill. The rag will fill the drill clearance, offering 1) radial support to the drill and 2) resistance to the drill's "pulling in" to the workpiece. On that last issue... use the drilling machine's quill clamp as a brake, to avoid "pulling in" There's always a bit of backlash in the quill's rack and pinion drive.
I have used, in the absence of denim, emery cloth, which works, but doesn't do drill bits any favours...
No one else remember "rag drilling"?
@@robertlawson8572 my whole point was based on the size of the bit and piece of metal being drilled in the video. I worked as a toolmaker for 40 years managing build and stamping operations. we made shims for punches and die sections by the thousands each year. you can avoid the accident by using safe measures. a clamp is a good safety measure. even a step drill is much better for drilling clean holes in sheet metal but when it grabs the work piece and you are holding it by hand lookout! Fingers don't grow back, just wanted to bring to peoples attention when i see a potential accident about to happen. remember there are lots of people that see a youtube video and think that it's a best practice to use when they go to do something. just my 2 cents.
@@user-ym4sf2er2p Sorry, pal, you seem to have bit... I just added a basic rule of drilling to your statement that clamping is necessary... Now it's lost in the noise. So... to recap,
If you can break the drill by hand, you can hold the workpiece by hand... (If you must) It really sets very low limits on the drill size. We all have our old war stories about drilling incidents...
I forgot to mention at the time about modifying the drill's rake to zero, or close to zero, to avoid sheet metal pulling up... Works well on spring steel, too... Same as putting a brass lip on a drill...
@@user-ym4sf2er2p I did respond earlier, my post seems to have gone...
I hate the use of two flute drills for SMW, clamps or no clamps. We did have "Brad Rad" step drills for lightening holes in A/C work, in the seventies, but, though the zero rake was good for avoidance of the workpiece rising, the zero rake was not good for light alloys.
Of course, sometimes it's necessary to drill thin stuff, or even stuff that's thin and hard, like spring steel sections for attachment screws... (punching introduces stresses that lead to failure, plus drills are easier to sharpen than punches... Then, I used either a combination centre bit (Are they still "Slocombe" bits over your way? ) Which have close to zero rake, and point thinned them for easy penetration, or a jobber bit with modified rake and point thinning.
Rag drilling, as I described in the "lost post" can work well, saves drill modification...
Still hate drilling sheet metal work, except in desperation...
Я на УШМ точу руками на глаз. Нормально сверлит если сначало проходить мелким сверлом который стоит дешевле. Видео урок познавательный👍 Попробую более точно наточить. Кобальтовые сверла точить легче, не перегреваются.
Muy bien afiladlas, si señor!! 👍😉
Great video, thanks
Автор молодец!
Highly appreciated.
Perfect for the subject how to sharpen drills. 14:03 maybe some trick can be added how to hold a piece of sheet metal for drilling.
Thanks
C'est un vrai savoir-faire 😮
Thank you my friend.👍👍👍👍👍
За заточку под косрй шуруп, отдельное спасибо
Булатный лайк мой👍
Boas informações
Thanks !
😅 very well guided for biggers
After 50 years of drill sharpening, that's the first time I've ever seen masking tape used to show the angle.
I was taught to use two hex nuts to get the 120 degrees
What a great idea to teach people how to set drill to wheel.
I do very little woodworking and have never used pocket hole construction, that was a very interesting modification that could be used to counter bore holes for cap-screws (Allen head)
ドリル研ぎを始めて50年になりますが、マスキングテープで角度がわかるのを見たのは初めてです。 120度にするために2つの六角ナットを使うように教えられました ドリルをホイールにセットする方法を人々に教えるのは素晴らしいアイデアです。 私は木工をほとんど行わず、ポケットホール構造を使用したことがありませんが、キャップスクリュー(六角レンチ)のざぐり穴に使用できる非常に興味深い変更でした
me leiste la mente, justo pensaba buscar esto, you read my mind, i was just i tink search it
Работаю Сверловщиком на Радиальносвелильном станке сверлю хардекс велдекс и никогда не занимаюсь наклейками скотча и других приспособлений к наждаку глаза и руки больше нечего не надо😅
Perfect 👌
Please make a video on how to sharpen scissors... this will be very valuable for Tailors....
i been iron worker for many years. you know your drill is sharp is when you drill the whole you get long unbroken spirals. it means the drill is sharp, your drill has the right rpm and the pressure on the drill is right. the smaller the drill bit the faster rpm, the larger the drill bit the slower the rpm. you can find the right rpms in tables on many websites. and when you need to cut a big hole... predrill with a few smaller drill bits first. i will go much faster and easier then straight up the big drill bit.
"you know your drill is sharp is when you drill the whole you get long unbroken spirals." Well... You won't with hard brass, or with cast iron. And in any case long swarf is at best a PITA, at worst, dangerous. That's why we "woodpecker" to avoid long swarf (other ways of avoiding long swarf are available...)
That was something we were taught in the 60s. "Long, continuous swarf is a sign you've got the right speed, feed and tool geometry" We used to compete to produce the longest piece of swarf. One day, a guy where I worked had a long spiral of swarf snaking from his lathe across an aisle, and another guy, not noticing, tripped on it and cut his ankle badly...
Not long afterwards, coincidentally, we were being taught to produce short chips, which are easily managed, don't weave themselves into machine handles, clamps, etc...
In respect of using progressively larger drills to make big holes, the point was made to me, in the early seventies, that that was an inefficient way of working (though it may be necessitated by low powered machinery) Drilling a 2" hole through solid, or with a small pilot, about web thickness, maybe a little less, is quicker than continually swapping bits.
The guy that told me that made the valid point that if the bigger drills were not intended to drill through solid, they'd not "cut to centre" Core bits for casting work don't "cut to centre" because the hole was sand cored to save you that...
exelente
Mi piace sapere come si chiama quel marteletto ché hai usato per spianare la mola?
I'm explaining with subtitles.
Drill bits cut by rotating anticlockwise so why do you need to put an angle at the back side edge where it has no contact to what it cuts?
If there is no angle, contact occurs through rotation.
This cannot be explained in words.
You can understand this by actually sharpening the drill with the angle set to zero.
@@jisakukobo I understand that contact occurs through rotation when there is no back angle but it's at the back of the edge which doesn't make any difference for actually cutting the metal. If you want to drill on both clockwise and anticlockwise then it make sense to give it a second angle at the back otherwise it doesn't do anything for drilling.
WHAT?!? You’re going to teach us how to sharpen METAL drill bits?!? What happened to the marine grade Baltic Birch? Aren’t you going to make the drill bits out of the WOOD, and show us how much more affordable and robust our joints are while they’re completely made with wood?!! What would Professor Charles Xavier think when you bust out this, your newest Magneto beacon? Giving up on wood might as well be the same as turning your back on Humankind!!
as clear as mud
Good
С 98 года затачиваю так сверла.
That first sharpening was 🤮 would have been better left out of the video as it brought the rest of the video down.
👍👌7:21 тоже надо под углом. Хвостовик сверла сдвигайте влево.
da noi le chiamiamo punte per foratura , il trapano è uno strumento adatto per fare girare le punte per fare fori ...
Thanks
@@jisakukobo👍👍👍
Что-то я не увидел 6 способов заточки. И уж точно 14:07 так делать нельзя если не хочешь стать инвалидом. А так вообще хорошее видео, только озвучивания или коментариев не хватает.
Top
Видео поучающее, но для глухонемых. Или у автора голос хриплявый...
Why not just set the tool rest to the correct angle (.10° ) for the face angle. Then just have to spin the bit to get the correct surface face cut.
Because that’s not gonna work. You should start at the shallower angle at the cutting edge and move the tip of the drill bit upwards as you turn it.
Пожалуйста не держите металлическую пластину рукой во время сверления. Мой друг так лишился пальца
А ты уверен что ты знаешь как правильно надо точить 😂😂😂
I didn't know how to sharpen a drill, so I asked the drill manufacturer to explain it to me.
Do you know the correct way to sharpen a drill?
Words that are perfect for you.
True ignorance does not know that it is ignorant.
Зачем усложнять всегда просто руками на глаз и всё ок
Так он и так на глаз всё точит. 😉 А если глаз кривой или руки не из того места? 😜🤣 В любом случае принцип то нужно знать. 😉
👍👍👍
Сверлить будет хорошо, но выглядит неаккуратно
DANGER!!!
14:00
Спасибо за ваш комментарий.
Пожалуйста, не стесняйтесь комментировать.
🙏👏👍💪
Сем лет отпахал на металлообработке (сверловка, токарка, фрезеровка итд.), я эти сверла щёлкал как орехи пачками, хотя я умел их точить ещё до поступления на работу, а на заводе скилуху поднял до заточки зенкеров от руки. Ещё есть варик при достаточной сноровке обратной заточки, когда нужно высверлить обломыш, а левого сверла нету...
Автор японец у него заточка сверл по Японский!
Нано!!! Технологии!
@@vasjpupkin4420 А что у японцев сверла какие-то не такие как у остального мира? Или сделаны из нано материалов?
@@vasjpupkin4420Нанотехнологии😂👍
Ну Вы монстр👹пачками точили. По мне так, чем меньше зависит заточка от чела, тем лучше.
@@user-fx7ic1tw6d В тех условия которых работал я, никакая автоматика не угадывалась и близко, полуавтоматические линии серийных деталей, на каждой по 25 металлообрабатывающих всякой разности станков, сверловочных операций было море, соответственно и сверел была гора. То есть если я бы няньчился с каждым сверлышком, то никогда б не делал норму, при этом качество требовалось в соответствии техпроцесу...
Affilare i trapani ??
Век живи - век учись. 👍👍👍👍💪💪💪
New cold ceramic drills will not sharpen
без пояснения и в тишине видео превращается в игру "найди 10 отличий",или "угадай,что изменилось "
да все понятно, прекрасная напоминалка))
Es muss heißen "Metallverarbeitung "
ステップドリル(たけのこドリル)の研ぎ方をお願いします。
アレ高いですからね
形状的に下手にいじると径が変わってしまうので難しいと思いますが考えてみます
😅😅😅😅 1:00 1:00 1:00 q9@@jisakukobo1:00
👍👍❤❤
👍👍👍👍
4:31 The easiest way to sharpen a drill ドリルを研ぐ最も簡単な方法
9:18 Sharpening using a jig 治具を使って研ぐ
10:39 How to sharpen a cone コーンを研ぐ方法
13:56 Drill for processing thin plates 薄板加工用ドリル
15:41 Make a woodworking drill 木工ドリルを作る
４つのとはどれのことですか？ 時刻を教えて下さい。
ろうそくの薄板加工用ドリルは円周部をセンターより少し下げたほうが良いと思います。
Спасибо 👍
タイトルいい加減につけてました。
全部で6つのドリルの紹介でした。
0:00 【ドリル研磨の概要とグラインダーの準備】
4:32 【直線研ぎの方法】
9:18 【治具を使った直線研ぎの方法】
10:40 【円錐研ぎの方法】
13:55 【ローソク研ぎの方法】
15:42 【木工ドリル研ぎの方法】
16:45 【下穴ドリル研ぎの方法】
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great as usual!
👏👏👏👏👏👏🙏🙏🙏🙏
💪💪👍👍👏👏👏🙏🙏
О боже, еще и с идикаторной головкой обертывание сверла. Я с закрытыми глазами его заточу, и сделаю так чтобы либо стружкалом ломал металл или спиралью гнал металл.
это как? просвети!
очень интересно спиралью, а то задолбала эта стружка
!!!
Всё может быть и хорошо,но....
Ни в коем случае нельзя показывать людям которые смотрят это видео как Вы сверлите листовой металл держа его руками!
Так делать нельзя,руками тонкий листовой металл при сверлении держать руками нельзя!
Ну и все эти долгие,точные манипуляции в итоге не привели к значимому результату,стружка должна выходить из двух кананавок,а не из одной как у Вас.
Вы получили только красивую заточку с маленькой перемычкой сверла🤷🏻♂️
Спасибо за ваш комментарий.
Пожалуйста, не стесняйтесь комментировать.
Бред полный.
Terlalu Ribet
Педант😂
Тягомотина
You take way too long on how to sharpen a drill bit there must be a simpler way
This video is the teaching process. I'm sure without it, you'll sharpen your drill bits in 5 minutes.
The simpler way that youre looking for is buying new bits at the hardware store. JSK's methods will only take a couple of minutes once you become proficient with it.
задний угол завалил. Кромка долго не протянет. Особенно в нержавейку. Подрезание вершины. Вершина должна резать, а не ковырять. С твоей кривой подрезкой металл там размажет и скрошит вершину. Подрезать надо так, чтоб режущая кромка продолжалась в сторону вершины. Короче балбес ты.
Вы просто не знаете, как заточить сверло.
Это правильный способ заточки сверла.
Для нержавеющей стали вам просто нужно использовать метод заточки из нержавеющей стали.
Сверла для нержавеющей стали не подходят для обычной мягкой стали.
Ты даже не понимаешь таких простых вещей.
Это очень детский образ мышления. Похоже на русский.
👎👎👎👎👎👎😆😆😆😆💯
rubbish
атакующая плоскость тоже должна быть проточена!