Perfect timing, This video just popped up on my feed even though it is rather old. I am just now working on my Blue Angels F-4J exhaust. Happy New Year Darrin!!
I've gotten similar effects using tamiya black and Vallejo gunmetal. Especially on armour I use this method to create a base layer that I then overcoat with the armour colour and chip down to the very metal looking base layer. Yeah it's an extra step, probably unnecessary, but fun, and to me that is what the hobby should be about. Great tutorial, you have a new subscriber 👍
It wouldn’t work originally with black primer because it’s semi permeable, it will try to draw in the silver paint. The tamiya xf1 will dry with a closed surface so the silver will have a chance to create the effect you want. I use it when finishing alloy wheels to create a shadow chrome finish.
Very cool tip , my question is , I build race cars , but would love to get into building aircraft also , I see most aircraft builders using airbrushes to get their aircraft to have a more realistic paint finish such as preshading , my question is , is there a way to use spray paint to achieve the same realistic finish as an airbrush ? Thank you for your time 👍
I'll be honest, I do not think that I could get a realistic finish on an aircraft with a spray can. I am not saying that I cannot be done, I am saying that I wouldn't be able to do it. I build cars too and I have been able to achieve quality results on car bodies with Tamiya Rattle can. I just don't think you can get the small details on an aircraft taken care of with a spray can, it takes the precision of the airbrush to make that happen. Just my two cents.
@@GrumpyModeler Thank you for your answer 👍 I guess I'll hold off till I can get an airbrush and do some practicing with it , thank you so much for your time , take care 😁
Sir, off the subject question... What oil base paint would YOU recommend for air brushing Duck Decoys that will last? I just want to touch up some of my decoys and do not know what kind of High Quality Flat paint to use.
I've been using exactly that same technique for many years. It works great for guns and gun barrels, too. Nearest I can figure is that the acrylic makes the best base for dry brushing enamel because it's pretty much impervious to the enamel thinner in the paint being brushed on. And I've long been a fan of Tamiya's acrylics because they have such finely ground pigments. But I figure I'd better round up two or three more bottles of the Model Master Chrome Silver, because they're getting harder to find on eBay, and there's just something about the Model Master paint that makes it work the best - probably, again, just finely ground pigments. I've tried Testors silver enamel, but it just doesn't produce the same results. And I'm going to buck up some of those brushes.
If I might go back a ways. I'm trying to tint flat "glass" windows for a Ford Bronco. I airbrush the smoke on but the Future doesn't run off a flat piece like a canopy and doesn't really make the part clear up. Any idea what I could be doing wrong?
The black base is Tamiya acrylic. It can be thinned with water, but I usually use Mr. Color Leveling Thinner or isopropyl alcohol to thin it for airbrushing. The dry brush coat is enamel, which dry brushes (and wet brushes) very well, and won't attack the acrylic.
They are and because of the I buy chrome silver when I find it. To be honest, I use it for this purpose only so the 4 bottle I have should last a life time.
I have not tried X-1. I doubt that X-1 would give the same result based on it being a gloss paint. It my understanding that the texture of the matt paint is what lends to the effect. If you try X-1 please let us know your result.
Too bad it’s a model master enamel technique. Perhaps one of the Mr. color metallic 2 or what ever they’re called can work. It seems to be a pigment solids size vs surface paint roughness relationship. Model master Chromes and Brass had a crazy teeny pigment grain size.
I am glad I back. I really missed this group.
Good to be back! Keep you’re eye peeled and make sure you have that notification bell clicked.
Cool technique indeed! I would also recommend lightly polishing the so called metal surfaces with a 2000 sp before applying primer or paint.
Thanks D-Ran for the tip! You guys rock!!
Any time!
Perfect timing, This video just popped up on my feed even though it is rather old. I am just now working on my Blue Angels F-4J exhaust. Happy New Year Darrin!!
I hope it helps Ed.....God Bless!
Great demonstration, D-Ran. Thanks!
Thanks Rock!
Awesome Difference, Thanks For Sharing Sir n Have a Blessed Week Ahead !!
Thank you, hope you have a blessed week too.
You're Welcome and Thank You 🤗👍
Nice tutorial on drybrushing. Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure 😊
I've gotten similar effects using tamiya black and Vallejo gunmetal. Especially on armour I use this method to create a base layer that I then overcoat with the armour colour and chip down to the very metal looking base layer. Yeah it's an extra step, probably unnecessary, but fun, and to me that is what the hobby should be about. Great tutorial, you have a new subscriber 👍
great tip.
Thank you
Thanks D-Ran!
Glad you like!!
Good technique, I also like dry brushing.
Thank you! Cheers!
It wouldn’t work originally with black primer because it’s semi permeable, it will try to draw in the silver paint. The tamiya xf1 will dry with a closed surface so the silver will have a chance to create the effect you want. I use it when finishing alloy wheels to create a shadow chrome finish.
Could you do an updated video, since Model Master has been discontinued?
Baddest mutha
Nice vid!! 👍👍👍
Thanks Tim!
hi my name is jonathan
great video can you tell me where to get the dry brushes in this video
thanks
Johnathan, I purchased mine at a local gaming store. Here the same set, I found them on Amazon. amzn.to/34dEjr3
Very cool tip , my question is , I build race cars , but would love to get into building aircraft also , I see most aircraft builders using airbrushes to get their aircraft to have a more realistic paint finish such as preshading , my question is , is there a way to use spray paint to achieve the same realistic finish as an airbrush ? Thank you for your time 👍
I'll be honest, I do not think that I could get a realistic finish on an aircraft with a spray can. I am not saying that I cannot be done, I am saying that I wouldn't be able to do it. I build cars too and I have been able to achieve quality results on car bodies with Tamiya Rattle can. I just don't think you can get the small details on an aircraft taken care of with a spray can, it takes the precision of the airbrush to make that happen. Just my two cents.
@@GrumpyModeler Thank you for your answer 👍 I guess I'll hold off till I can get an airbrush and do some practicing with it , thank you so much for your time , take care 😁
Excellent video! How do the makeup brushes hold up to cleaning? Enamel thinner, I assume?
Yes sir, enamel thinner and they hold up okay. If dry brushing is something that you do a lot of then I would suggest good quality brushes.
@@GrumpyModeler Will do, thanks!
Sir, off the subject question... What oil base paint would YOU recommend for air brushing Duck Decoys that will last? I just want to touch up some of my decoys and do not know what kind of High Quality Flat paint to use.
My apologies, I really don't have much experience with oil paints with an airbrush. I spray acrylics and lacquers pretty much exclusively.
I've been using exactly that same technique for many years. It works great for guns and gun barrels, too. Nearest I can figure is that the acrylic makes the best base for dry brushing enamel because it's pretty much impervious to the enamel thinner in the paint being brushed on. And I've long been a fan of Tamiya's acrylics because they have such finely ground pigments. But I figure I'd better round up two or three more bottles of the Model Master Chrome Silver, because they're getting harder to find on eBay, and there's just something about the Model Master paint that makes it work the best - probably, again, just finely ground pigments. I've tried Testors silver enamel, but it just doesn't produce the same results. And I'm going to buck up some of those brushes.
I'm looking for digital camo stencil's like that seen on the SU-78 but have struck out. Any suggestions?
If I might go back a ways. I'm trying to tint flat "glass" windows for a Ford Bronco. I airbrush the smoke on but the Future doesn't run off a flat piece like a canopy and doesn't really make the part clear up. Any idea what I could be doing wrong?
Are both the black and the silver paint enamel, or water based? Thanks. Should they be flat, or gloss? Thank you
The black base is Tamiya acrylic. It can be thinned with water, but I usually use Mr. Color Leveling Thinner or isopropyl alcohol to thin it for airbrushing.
The dry brush coat is enamel, which dry brushes (and wet brushes) very well, and won't attack the acrylic.
Kenitico?😳
Jman
Aren't Model Master paints discontinued? Wake up RustOlium!
They are and because of the I buy chrome silver when I find it. To be honest, I use it for this purpose only so the 4 bottle I have should last a life time.
Have you tried it with X-1 instead of XF-1?
I have not tried X-1. I doubt that X-1 would give the same result based on it being a gloss paint. It my understanding that the texture of the matt paint is what lends to the effect. If you try X-1 please let us know your result.
Too bad it’s a model master enamel technique. Perhaps one of the Mr. color metallic 2 or what ever they’re called can work. It seems to be a pigment solids size vs surface paint roughness relationship. Model master Chromes and Brass had a crazy teeny pigment grain size.