Also, when you put the caulking in the middle of the water channel it makes a damn and causes water to go under the tile the wire is a great idea. That’s how I do it.
You are supposed to use the valley metal that has a hem on it to keep the water in the valley and also you’re nailing through the valley metal so what good does that do all you’re doing to create a hole in your valley metal
Great work buddy. Lots of common sense here. One thing I wanted to ask was about the felt paper over the valley. If the valley gets obstructed, water will flow to the sides and under the felt paper. I've fixed 2 leaks in the past 6 months for this reason. My latest video shows this issue. What are your thoughts?.
I definitely agree with you. I just saw a few leaks for this very reason. I'm still torn on it. I think it may be a good idea with a self adhered underlayment but not worth doing on a nail down.
liked and subbed! i have a similar problem but need to know how to correctly finish the edge where the wide valley flashing meets the tile riser. i have drainage holes drilled in my tile riser.... is that bad? it's allowing water to drip into the gutter to avoid excessive fast water flow from hitting the end of the V where to slopes meet.... but i have a small leak further up from the riser that i need to check as it's leaking at the eaves underneath. should the felt go under or above the tile risers edging that sits on top of the wood deck. sorry if you have this already, i'm new to your channel. thank you in advance sir! great videos! i have a flat concrete tile.
the J O K E of a Tile roof is the Valley. No way it will ever be good or serviceble. If not pointed and open you can never get up[ to clear the darn leaves. Water will damn up and spread out > 3 feet either side., Even here you see the no finished edges no use not battens of any kind. That means a constant dam from the gable to the gutter. At least vertical battens 3/8"> will let water flow down, and the horizontal cross battens keep the tiles off the deck and allow air an accidental water flow. How they do it on Canada/england for more time centuries, than here. No fan of installers almpost anywhere there are trees- shameless. Every year broken tiles trying to lift & clear and acess the silly filled tiles maybe 2" wide on the darn valley make it 24" wide AND CLEAR BETWEEN THE TILES AND WALK UP THERE AND CLEAN IT - THIS IS JUST STUPID. i CARE LESS WHAT THE NEIGBORS SEE. I WILL PAINT TO MATCH. YOU COULD HOVER TILE OVER THE VALLEY WITH A RAISED TILE ROOF.
Let me know if you have any additional tips for installing valley flashing on a flat tile roof!
Also, when you put the caulking in the middle of the water channel it makes a damn and causes water to go under the tile the wire is a great idea. That’s how I do it.
You are supposed to use the valley metal that has a hem on it to keep the water in the valley and also you’re nailing through the valley metal so what good does that do all you’re doing to create a hole in your valley metal
Great work buddy. Lots of common sense here. One thing I wanted to ask was about the felt paper over the valley. If the valley gets obstructed, water will flow to the sides and under the felt paper. I've fixed 2 leaks in the past 6 months for this reason. My latest video shows this issue. What are your thoughts?.
I definitely agree with you. I just saw a few leaks for this very reason. I'm still torn on it. I think it may be a good idea with a self adhered underlayment but not worth doing on a nail down.
liked and subbed! i have a similar problem but need to know how to correctly finish the edge where the wide valley flashing meets the tile riser. i have drainage holes drilled in my tile riser.... is that bad? it's allowing water to drip into the gutter to avoid excessive fast water flow from hitting the end of the V where to slopes meet.... but i have a small leak further up from the riser that i need to check as it's leaking at the eaves underneath. should the felt go under or above the tile risers edging that sits on top of the wood deck. sorry if you have this already, i'm new to your channel. thank you in advance sir! great videos! i have a flat concrete tile.
I recommend leaving the tile riser back from the valley at least 6” from the middle. That way it’ll allow water to easily drain.
Thanks for the sub.
@@RoofRepairSpecialist thank you!
the J O K E of a Tile roof is the Valley. No way it will ever be good or serviceble. If not pointed and open you can never get up[ to clear the darn leaves. Water will damn up and spread out > 3 feet either side., Even here you see the no finished edges no use not battens of any kind. That means a constant dam from the gable to the gutter. At least vertical battens 3/8"> will let water flow down, and the horizontal cross battens keep the tiles off the deck and allow air an accidental water flow. How they do it on Canada/england for more time centuries, than here. No fan of installers almpost anywhere there are trees- shameless. Every year broken tiles trying to lift & clear and acess the silly filled tiles maybe 2" wide on the darn valley make it 24" wide AND CLEAR BETWEEN THE TILES AND WALK UP THERE AND CLEAN IT - THIS IS JUST STUPID. i CARE LESS WHAT THE NEIGBORS SEE. I WILL PAINT TO MATCH. YOU COULD HOVER TILE OVER THE VALLEY WITH A RAISED TILE ROOF.
Ya, I’ve seen them done that way in Europe. Not sure why it’s not a practice in the US.