In this video, my nephew and I install a Kohler K838 cast iron tub in the bathroom (Yeah, finally!). ***Note: Unlike many other tub materials, this cast iron tub was simply made level by installing shims under the feet per Kohler's instructions. No screws or nails are required to hold it in place: www.us.kohler.com/webassets/kpna/catalog/pdf/en/1084177_2.pdf A couple corrections as pointed out by viewers: (1) Teflon tape is not needed for the lock nut threads. (2) Separate washer and lock nuts seal better than lock nuts with integrated washers. *Please leave a 👍 if you like the video!* 👉 Visit our website ► DIYApprentice.com
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this video is the first one that madde me grateful my cast iron tub (in a new build) does not have an apron front. I've been feeling sorry for myself thinking I had the harder job for setting it, but it's a little less weight, and easier to use a dolly from the front. My husband is the Architect, and we did a couple things for design reasons- a small deck on the back of the tub 10" and a partition wall that we can build after the install. I feel like all designers should look at this and think about a little shelf space at the non-plumbing wall- helps this situation alot. Lots os useful info and shims are a great idea
Thanks for the great video and very clear narration of what your doing. Your idea of using metal junction box covers as shims is excellent! I’m going out to get some today!
Thanks for showing this. I'm just finished mine. I have a small comment - at 11:00 in, you suggest using teflon tape on the threads of a compression lock nut. This is not a good idea. The lock nut presses the ring tightly between the tube and seat. That is what makes the seal, not the threads on the nut itself. In the example you show last, the ring and nut are one, but it doesn't matter. The seal is made by the nut between the tube and the seat. Teflon tape just makes it harder to provide enough pressure to make a good seal. If anything, a little lubricant on the compression nut threads will make it easier to tighten down (though on an ABS fitting with a polypropylene nut, I am not sure what the best choice of lubricant would be).
After I filmed this video, I was questioning why I would need any sort of tape or dope on a slip nut. It appears that some plumbers do use them, but many don't use anything. Thanks for watching!
Awesome. Exact situation. Tough squeezing a 60" 330lb tub into a 60" wide room. We cleared the toilet supply and knocked out interior drywall to squeeze onto position. Same technique.
Well done video. You are a gentleman and a scholar! I am getting ready to put in a cast iron tub and was glad to see how you did it, because there are many other videos that show how to install a steel or acrylic tub, but those use a ledger, so the install is a bit different.
Yeah, I was going to use screws, but the tape worked out fine. The junction box covers definitely made the installation much easier because of their size in comparison to the tub's feet.
@@travisk5589 Yes, I discussed some options I'd researched in video 54, which included flexible PVC. My drain appears to line up fine with the brass waste and overflow, and I can't return it now.
I am getting ready to re install, they are heavy and the wall spacing was tight to get it out. I am going to shift one wall to give me 1.25" so it will be easier to get in, plus it will be room for cement board as I want to tile the enclosure. On the original floor, one joist had been cut on the end and left dangling for drain line clearance, so on the new joists I shortened the one joist and boxed it into the adjacent joists.
I am looking to install a new tub. Looking at cast iron or steel. You guys moved the tub with two people was your tub cast iron? The weight is my issue do you know the weight of your tub? Was it cast iron or steel? Do you need to screw the tub to the studs for movement issues? Thanks
Yes, it was cast iron, which is in the video's title. The tub weighs around 325 lbs; the floor underneath it has joist sisters and some blocking. Since it's cast iron, screws are not used. Video 54 in the series goes into a little more detail: ruclips.net/video/7RBGtmnlmGo/видео.html
The floor in this bathroom is level from left to right, but it is out of level about 5/16" from front to back; it would have required more work to level it, which I didn't think was worth the effort. I was more concerned with making sure it was flat. Also, there's a chance that the tub being installed has some irregularities.
Joints with seal rings: the rings do the sealing and no tape or pipe dope is used, same as copper compression, flare fittings, and the connection ring on unions.
There’s actually two ways to make that seal . The threaded tail piece with those fine threads screw into the waste and overflow tee , but you can also just cut the threads off and use a slip nut and gasket but I do both of those connections. I thread the tail piece into the tee and also slip on a gasket and nut so you have a joint that’s not going to leak after two months of being used .
Sure. Feel free to send me an Instagram or Facebook message (links in description), or you can email me: ben@diyapprentice.com. I'll do my best to help out.
I have never had any issues setting cast iron tubes . I mean I always try to get the tub in before any of the drywall has been hung , and if the drywall is already installed or isn’t getting replaced you will need to remove the other fixtures and give yourself and your helper room to work.
Your video explanation is very exacting. I would, however like to know how you got the bathtub in the bathroom and managed to fit it between the walls. You video shows the bathtub already set between the walls and all you had to do was to push it in place. I was thinking of using a come-along attached to the overhead rafters and the vent hole of the tub to lower the bathtub in place. In any case, very good tutorial.
Thanks. I explained in the beginning of the video that I removed some drywall I'd put up to close off what used to be a doorway, removed a wall stud then slid the tub into the room. Otherwise, as I mentioned, the tub will have to be gradually set down in the alcove, which is a more difficult proposition.
No, Kohler's installation instructions do not call for the tub to be fastened to the wall. Some will use a ledger board like I demonstrated, but it's not recommended by Kohler in this case.
I planned on installing the backer board (most likely GP Densshield) to within 1/8" above the tub flanges then the 1/8" gap will be filled with 100% silicone. The tile will then be installed to within about 1/4" of the tub ledge. I've seen this method used by pros. Hopefully, I correctly understood your question.
@@DIYApprentice yes. That was the question and that seems like it would work fine. I was going to grout over the silicone or do you suggest grout caulk? I appreciate your help!
@@stangbanger6445 Based solely on my research, you should be able to tile like normal once the silicone is dry - no additional material is required. You'll need a little extra thinset behind the lower portion of the tile where there's no backer board supporting it, though.
I am going to install the board behind the edges and seal the joint. Then the protrusion of the tile will be minimized, plus the tile will be sealed at the tub interface as well.
Yes, this is a controversial subject I mentioned in the video. Kohler says to not use a ledger boards for this cast iron tub, but I've seen plumbers mention that they often use ledgers.
Never use those nut/washer combos. The better option would’ve been the nut with the separate rubber washer. The rubber washers seal much better than the plastic ones.
You are showing how to plumb a tub. Your title shows how to install a cast iron tub. There is no room to put screws in the wall. So How DID YOU SET THE TUB and LEVEL it? That is the installation part of INSTALLING a tub.
With all due respect, did you watch the video? The tub is made level by placing shims under the feet. No screws are needed because it's a cast iron tub. I followed Kohler's instructions for the installation: www.us.kohler.com/webassets/kpna/catalog/pdf/en/1084177_2.pdf
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
In this video, my nephew and I install a Kohler K838 cast iron tub in the bathroom (Yeah, finally!).
***Note: Unlike many other tub materials, this cast iron tub was simply made level by installing shims under the feet per Kohler's instructions. No screws or nails are required to hold it in place: www.us.kohler.com/webassets/kpna/catalog/pdf/en/1084177_2.pdf
A couple corrections as pointed out by viewers: (1) Teflon tape is not needed for the lock nut threads. (2) Separate washer and lock nuts seal better than lock nuts with integrated washers.
*Please leave a 👍 if you like the video!*
👉 Visit our website ► DIYApprentice.com
👉 Click to Subscribe! ► bit.ly/2pEBg3m
🔧▬▬Tools and Materials▬▬🔧
👉 DIY Apprentice Recommended Tools and Materials ► bit.ly/2T5psFw
✔️ Drain information:
The bathroom fixtures are Grohe Agira brushed nickel, but Grohe doesn't make a complementary drain. This satin nickel drain is almost an exact match ► amzn.to/2vHOoZ9
✔️ Watco 924 waste and overflow kit ► amzn.to/2OyNl4U
✔️ Watco 916 waste and overflow kit ► amzn.to/2MmDqlf
✔️ The electronic trap I used caught the rat the same day I posted this video. Worked great - check it out! ► amzn.to/2pGvsXr
Similar traps:
► amzn.to/2C08t0O
► amzn.to/2ynoURi
📷▬▬Video Equipment▬▬📷
✔️ Camera used ► amzn.to/2GcpkOb
✔️ Lens used ► amzn.to/2Deu16S
✔️ Tripod ► amzn.to/2GbaM1c
✔️ RAM Suction Mount ► amzn.to/2Wz9PXh
✔️ Cyberlink PowerDirector ► bit.ly/2jTwGxT
✔️ Adobe Photoshop ► bit.ly/2V7nyUX
✔️ Camera Slider ► amzn.to/2WtD7GW
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Disclosure: This video contains affiliate links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, I will receive a commission if you click through and make a purchase.
The best cast-iron tub install video I've found so far! Excellent job! I really appreciate the detail and comprehensiveness you included.
this video is the first one that madde me grateful my cast iron tub (in a new build) does not have an apron front. I've been feeling sorry for myself thinking I had the harder job for setting it, but it's a little less weight, and easier to use a dolly from the front. My husband is the Architect, and we did a couple things for design reasons- a small deck on the back of the tub 10" and a partition wall that we can build after the install. I feel like all designers should look at this and think about a little shelf space at the non-plumbing wall- helps this situation alot. Lots os useful info and shims are a great idea
Thanks for the great video and very clear narration of what your doing. Your idea of using metal junction box covers as shims is excellent! I’m going out to get some today!
Hope they work for you. Thanks for watching the video! 👍
Thanks just sent it to your instagram
I’ll be installing one shortly and I learned a few tricks. Thanks for posting!
Hope your installation goes well. Thanks for checking out the video!
Thank you for posting this video. I am getting ready to install a cast iron tub for someone. Watching from NC
Thanks for showing this. I'm just finished mine. I have a small comment - at 11:00 in, you suggest using teflon tape on the threads of a compression lock nut. This is not a good idea. The lock nut presses the ring tightly between the tube and seat. That is what makes the seal, not the threads on the nut itself. In the example you show last, the ring and nut are one, but it doesn't matter. The seal is made by the nut between the tube and the seat. Teflon tape just makes it harder to provide enough pressure to make a good seal. If anything, a little lubricant on the compression nut threads will make it easier to tighten down (though on an ABS fitting with a polypropylene nut, I am not sure what the best choice of lubricant would be).
After I filmed this video, I was questioning why I would need any sort of tape or dope on a slip nut. It appears that some plumbers do use them, but many don't use anything.
Thanks for watching!
Great video. Appreciate it! I've done a bunch of the junky plastic ones and now I'm putting a 70s american standard in my home. Iron!
Thanks. I'm glad this particular installation wasn't too difficult. 😀
I'm doing the same thing next year, have matching American Standard tub, sink and toilet all in mint condition!
Yes, I hate flimsy tubs so much. Love the old cast iron.
Awesome. Exact situation. Tough squeezing a 60" 330lb tub into a 60" wide room. We cleared the toilet supply and knocked out interior drywall to squeeze onto position. Same technique.
Yeah, the options are pretty limited. I don't think a cast iron tub is in my upstairs bathroom's future. 😀
Well done video. You are a gentleman and a scholar! I am getting ready to put in a cast iron tub and was glad to see how you did it, because there are many other videos that show how to install a steel or acrylic tub, but those use a ledger, so the install is a bit different.
Yes, cast iron tubs are a different animal. Glad you got some useful info from the video. Thanks for checking it out!
I have been using junction box covers forever. I use the screws to hold the covers down. The tape can get knocked loose during placement
Yeah, I was going to use screws, but the tape worked out fine. The junction box covers definitely made the installation much easier because of their size in comparison to the tub's feet.
@@DIYApprentice Here's a tip for you. Use the flexible PVC pipe in your drain fittings. It gives you almost an inch of leeway with lining up the drain
@@travisk5589 Yes, I discussed some options I'd researched in video 54, which included flexible PVC. My drain appears to line up fine with the brass waste and overflow, and I can't return it now.
I am getting ready to re install, they are heavy and the wall spacing was tight to get it out. I am going to shift one wall to give me 1.25" so it will be easier to get in, plus it will be room for cement board as I want to tile the enclosure. On the original floor, one joist had been cut on the end and left dangling for drain line clearance, so on the new joists I shortened the one joist and boxed it into the adjacent joists.
Yeah, I had to box in the drain in video 28. There was a lot of floor structure work on this project. Hope your project turns out well.
I am looking to install a new tub. Looking at cast iron or steel. You guys moved the tub with two people was your tub cast iron? The weight is my issue do you know the weight of your tub? Was it cast iron or steel? Do you need to screw the tub to the studs for movement issues?
Thanks
Yes, it was cast iron, which is in the video's title. The tub weighs around 325 lbs; the floor underneath it has joist sisters and some blocking. Since it's cast iron, screws are not used. Video 54 in the series goes into a little more detail: ruclips.net/video/7RBGtmnlmGo/видео.html
This might sound different, but what if you just installed it on a level floor?
The floor in this bathroom is level from left to right, but it is out of level about 5/16" from front to back; it would have required more work to level it, which I didn't think was worth the effort. I was more concerned with making sure it was flat. Also, there's a chance that the tub being installed has some irregularities.
Joints with seal rings: the rings do the sealing and no tape or pipe dope is used, same as copper compression, flare fittings, and the connection ring on unions.
Yes, I updated the video's description after a plumber corrected me a couple years ago.
There’s actually two ways to make that seal . The threaded tail piece with those fine threads screw into the waste and overflow tee , but you can also just cut the threads off and use a slip nut and gasket but I do both of those connections. I thread the tail piece into the tee and also slip on a gasket and nut so you have a joint that’s not going to leak after two months of being used .
How much space is there between the head and foot of the tub and the studs?
It's pretty tight. If I remember correctly, there's about 1/8" of space max.
Hi I have this same tub and I have a lot of questions..was wondering if I could possibly send you a video of my problem?
Sure. Feel free to send me an Instagram or Facebook message (links in description), or you can email me: ben@diyapprentice.com. I'll do my best to help out.
Thanks I just sent it to your instagram
@@jamesreeves1672 Replied.
I have never had any issues setting cast iron tubes . I mean I always try to get the tub in before any of the drywall has been hung , and if the drywall is already installed or isn’t getting replaced you will need to remove the other fixtures and give yourself and your helper room to work.
Yes, I agree. Cleared the area as much as possible to install the tub.
Your video explanation is very exacting. I would, however like to know how you got the bathtub in the bathroom and managed to fit it between the walls. You video shows the bathtub already set between the walls and all you had to do was to push it in place. I was thinking of using a come-along attached to the overhead rafters and the vent hole of the tub to lower the bathtub in place. In any case, very good tutorial.
Thanks. I explained in the beginning of the video that I removed some drywall I'd put up to close off what used to be a doorway, removed a wall stud then slid the tub into the room. Otherwise, as I mentioned, the tub will have to be gradually set down in the alcove, which is a more difficult proposition.
Rats in the trap! My worst nightmare. Five star video. Worth a $1,000. Thanks for the highest quality information.
Yeah, I caught the flea-infested mouse, and we thankfully haven't had more issues with rodents. Thanks for watching! 👍
Just wanted to say " rats coming out of the sewer? Ugh " never thought I would be happy with a septic system, but at least no rats.
It was quite fun dealing with rats.
Do you fasten it in in any way to the wall?
No, Kohler's installation instructions do not call for the tub to be fastened to the wall. Some will use a ledger board like I demonstrated, but it's not recommended by Kohler in this case.
@@DIYApprentice gotcha. Thanks, sir!
I have a question... how do you trim your hardibacker into the small flares on the tub surround as it doesn't have a nice lap like a modern tub?
I planned on installing the backer board (most likely GP Densshield) to within 1/8" above the tub flanges then the 1/8" gap will be filled with 100% silicone. The tile will then be installed to within about 1/4" of the tub ledge. I've seen this method used by pros. Hopefully, I correctly understood your question.
@@DIYApprentice yes. That was the question and that seems like it would work fine. I was going to grout over the silicone or do you suggest grout caulk? I appreciate your help!
@@stangbanger6445 Based solely on my research, you should be able to tile like normal once the silicone is dry - no additional material is required. You'll need a little extra thinset behind the lower portion of the tile where there's no backer board supporting it, though.
I am going to install the board behind the edges and seal the joint. Then the protrusion of the tile will be minimized, plus the tile will be sealed at the tub interface as well.
@@stangbanger6445 where the tile meets the tub, no grout because things do move or settle & you don't want the grout to crack.
Where’s the ledger boards to hold the tub in place ?
Yes, this is a controversial subject I mentioned in the video. Kohler says to not use a ledger boards for this cast iron tub, but I've seen plumbers mention that they often use ledgers.
The rat in the crawl space was caught the same day this video was posted. See the description for the electronic trap I used.
you should have bought a snake and sent it down your drain pipe lol
make more videos :)
lol. Yes, I'm back on it. The shower valve installation is planned for this week. I just finished editing part 1.
Never use those nut/washer combos. The better option would’ve been the nut with the separate rubber washer. The rubber washers seal much better than the plastic ones.
Hmm, I haven't read or heard about any issues with the nuts that have integrated washers. The connection seemed pretty tight.
DIY Apprentice like Great White Hype, I’m also a 20 year plumber. Take it or leave it, I guess.
@@wesleyholbrooks6792 Ok, thanks.
Jesus bless you
Glad you found the video useful. Thanks.
Great video. Thanks. Have a tub that looks to be an extra 200 pounds over yours. Dreading it.
500 lbs? Uh, wow.
You are showing how to plumb a tub. Your title shows how to install a cast iron tub. There is no room to put screws in the wall. So How DID YOU SET THE TUB and LEVEL it? That is the installation part of INSTALLING a tub.
With all due respect, did you watch the video? The tub is made level by placing shims under the feet. No screws are needed because it's a cast iron tub. I followed Kohler's instructions for the installation: www.us.kohler.com/webassets/kpna/catalog/pdf/en/1084177_2.pdf
Call Terminix
I took matters into my own hands and eliminated the threat 👍