I found a good one in the wrecking yard. I've been debating whether to get new or pull the used. After watching this video, I'm thinking, maybe it's a good idea to get the CV axle and bracket as a unit used.
Great video. Tip for the V6 owners out there, you cannot do this with the V6 car, as it has the rear engine mount integrated into the axle bearing carrier. The biggest problem with the damn thing is that you can't get any sort of good angle to hammer the axle bearing out of the carrier. So do what I did. Take an electric grinder and cut a one foot section or so out of the axle shaft just on the differential side of the bearing, and then near the differential entry point. That gives you the clearance to get a 4 pound sledgehammer in there to bang directly outward on the axle stub. And then clean and polish the inner race of the axle shaft carrier and put antiseize on the bearing of the new axle before you reinstall.
This is the easiest way to remove this axle. Remove bottom locking bolt and retainer clip. Spray with lots of pb blaster. Now drive it for a day as is. The vibration loosens rust and mine slid right out. Heat, and vibration made it simple and quick. You know it's ready when the sound gets louder on excelleration. Vehicle was solid at 350k. .
Thanks man, none of the other videos that I've watched recommend removing the housing. I have greased , beat , pulled, heated and prayed all of which was unsuccessful trying to get my right axle off of my 97 Avalon . I did talk with a mechanic who informed me that this method would have to be used prior to watching your video but I now see exactly how to go about removing that stubborn M@##$$ F@$$$ .
On my 1999 Camry I use pb blaster for a couple of days and then an acetylene torch and heat untill you just see the begining of red. If you're careful you won't damage anything. After you heat it quickly go to a 5 lb slide hammer with the special fork end piece that is available. I don't disconnect the lower ball joint either (saves time). It should pop out with a couple of hammers. Finally and most important polish well with sandpaper/emery cloth and coat the inner bracket and bearing with AquaLube before reassembly. Its amazing sticky stuff. When you put it on shock threads for ten years the nut comes off just like day one. Get some and use it on everything.
EXCELLENT VID! But, you’re only one of the vid I seen shows bolting the bearing bracket/pedestal in FIRST. I’m a DIY guy so the other 3 vids show guys wrestling it in. Misleading! I was losing it. I spoke to the owner of CV Axle Express in SLC UT USA. He said put in carrier bearing first. AND, like you said- same for me- went in like butter. And I got an OEM rebuild lifetime warranty from the same guy $80. Great vid, I’m subscribed, thanks a ton.
PICKLE FORK FOR THE WIN :If you are a DIY and dont have a lift this may work for you. I recently got this job done by using a pickle fork between the housing and the bracket. Then hammer the pickle fork handle toward drivers side. This successfully broke the bearing free of the bracket. Then it was easy to finish the job using the hammer pulley, but i could have just used a hammer and chisel to finish the job since the bearing was loosened by the fork. The hammer pulley did not work by itself until the pickle fork broke the bearing free. This done for a 2002 v6 model the bearing would not move until I used the pickle fork. No cutting or bracket removal was needed.
Although cutting the passenger-side CV axle is a great idea, I believe a straight die grinder is the wrong tool because it does not allow one to cut the axle where it really needs to be cut: flush behind the tulip (the tripod housing), the structure which inhibit access to one of the bracket’s fasteners. Accordingly, the proper tool to use is a Sawzall employing a “Lenox Thick Metal 6-in. Lazer CT Carbide Tip (6108RCT)" or "Diablo Steel Demon 6-in. Thick Metal Carbide Teeth (DS0608CF)" blade. As you cut, turn the axle and traverse toward the center like the phonographic needle on a record player. To begin, drench the blade with cutting oil and when the sparks fly, drench it again and again. So cutting the CV axle on both sides of the bracket, allows one to easily and quickly remove it in three parts. First, remove the outboard section. Second, remove the bracket’s fasteners and then remove the carrier bearing bracket along with its portion of the CV axle. Finally, remove the inboard (or transmission) portion. Now the only task remaining is to salvage the carrier bearing bracket by pounding-out the small remnant of the CV axle held within.
Great vid. Already spent last weekend trying to hammer it out of the bearing sleeve. Doing kids 1998 Camry. Going to have to use engine hoist to hold engine up since the bracket is part of the engine rear mount. Who the hell thought that design was any good.
Do not cut the shaft. Remove bracket with axle. Place the end of the shaft against the concrete and apply light hammer blows to alternating sides of the bearing bracket. The reason it is not coming out for RB is because he is holding it and his hand is absorbing the impact of the blows. Is it best to use a piece of aluminum or brass hammer to avoid damaging the bearing bracket. I just changed this on a 2003 Toyota Camry last night and it took about 40 minutes from start to finish. Also of note, using some emery cloth to clean the inside of the bearing would be far better than the die grinder with flapper wheel. It is meant to be a tight fit. I installed the bearing bracket on the new axle before install (same method) as it is easier to verify it is fully seated. Another helpful hint, if you are doing this on the ground like I was and you jack up and put only the right side on a jack stand, you don't have to drain the transmission. The fluid will not run out when replacing the RH axle. Happy building folks.
@@RBTheMechanic really? I am planning to get the shorter air hammer and hit it. Will I have the luck, i am diy. pray for me please. they want 1000 per axel
Solvent, heat and a vice are NOT really optional for this procedure, unless you enjoy pissing yourself off and wasting time (never know). Spraying solvent the day prior helps but I personally remove that "useless" 14mm bolt that is not useless and fill the bolt hole with grease, then thread the bolt back into the hole and tighten it down forcing the grease under high pressure into the housing. After forcing the grease in you can apply some moderate heat to the housing and start hitting the CV housing outward while it is still bolted in the vehicle...or (better method) you can just remove the axle and bearing carrier and walk over to the vice and work on it there. After the bearing comes out, clean up the bearing housing and apply anti-seize to the bearing and housing, then button it all back up. You're welcome
I've had tremendous results by using out that bolt on the bottom on the carrier bracket and drilling a hole into the bearing race then using a punch to break the race and it'll come right out of the carrier bracket
Thanks for the video, I'm about to order the part(s) for this job soon, do you know if there is a bearing near where the splines that go to the transmission side and axle meet? I'm hearing a rumbling noise when going at higher speeds (60mph) in that area when I lifted up the car I hear it slightly (close to the transmission and where the axle meets) (no popping when driving). I've been trying to find a diagram though can't seem to find one that shows it clearly
Im working on a 2008 Dodge caliber rt front passenger side and I've got everything tore down except for the CV axle. I've changed quiet a few axles but none that go into a bracket and then another axle that goes into the transmission
Ok what is the long rod that goes from the bracket into the transmission called? Because when I'm ordering parts it don't show that it only shows the cv axle going from the knuckle to the bracket
that 14 mm bolt in the carrier housing should serve as some sort of "set screw" to keep the outer race from ever spinning. when you tighten a set screw you should tighten it once, back it off and then tighten it again no torque spec imo
Im from jersey and needed to do this to drive home for the Holidays! I'm bringing my 20 ton press so I can do control arm bushings, bearings so on. 7:50 STORY OF MY LIFE (Fluid leaked on top of me) hahaha My axle was loose on the gearbox side & had play in it after replacing the axle. Is my differential shot? After doing this with a 20 ton press. Its super impressive you got that bearing carry out with a freakin HAMMER! God bless you
I struggled taking that bearing out not sure about ur differential drive it till it gives up or check ur axle usually the have some type of movement but shouldn’t be lot like u said
Im a toyota tech in the rust belt and we ALWAYS change the braket with the rhd axle. I honestly didn't even know it was possible to remove that bearing without breaking it lol
Sooooo you’re telling me if I buy another bracket with the snap ring I can just go straight to unbolting the bracket & it’ll come right out ? Obviously after making space for yourself to slide it out.
I just did one last week on my buddy car a 2007 Camry and i used a 2x4 wood and hit it on the bearing support after i took off the bolts and hit the axel and it came right off with the support and then took off the retainer and then i Used a A Malet but the rubber one and sprayed some B-12 Oil to penetrate and then i hit the ears where the bolt goes thru of that support and it came off did take a couple of hits but it came off and then i put the new one and also the one on the driver side as well and when i put it on i went ahead and put the axl back into the transmission and then bolted down the support and was done and that's how I did it ..
Does the support bearing ever go bad before the axle bearings? My axle boots look good but I am afraid the support bearing in the bracket might go bad first.
The best 70-100 dollar you can spend is to get a new bracket before this job, and Dremel cut the old bracket (make a cut to the width of the bracket where the bearing sit), literally 5 min and that bearing will be out. This is what I learned after spending 3 days hammering , using slide hammer, heat , unable to cut the old cv using sawzall, all of it) . Just go get a new bracket and cut old one off. You will spend same money on material and frustration and on time trying to get this out any other way.
If it’s not leaking.. drive it til it breaks. Luckily this part doesn’t go bad on them often but when they do.. add an hour at least to your estimate. You can also just buy another carrier/bracket. It’s not that much more even from the dealer. At advance the bracket is 87$ for a dorman or 93$ at Toyota. It just makes this a lot easier… you might just save money and aching joints going this route!
I just did a 1989 Camry passenger CV Axle, got retainer out & 14mm bolt, Axle came out of Bracket with a few Good Smacks🤙 But, had problem installing Rebuilt Axle🤔 I greased the bearing, but The Bearing was not sliding into bracket properly 😢 Had to remove inner joint Boot & Tap Axle, to get Bearing in place, but now Bearing is Damaged🤬🤬 Since you Removed Axle & bearing bracket from vehicle, Why can't you install new Axle and bearing into bracket with retainer, then install into vehicle??? I'm trying it with my replacement part ☺️
Have you seen the Vibration with an Air Hammer Technique? The idea is that when an air hammer -- with a blunt tip -- is used to VIBRATE the carrier -- not the axle, not the bearing -- perpendicular to the axis of the axle shaft -- it causes the rust to break down -- and then the axle w/bearing just 'walks' out. No prying is used at all. (!) Yes, the 14mm bolt and snap ring are removed, first, obviously. Google cv axle toyota sienna 2015 (tech-vet) for a video that astounds.
Good video. I just went thru this W/a 2014 Scion TC. Forget about trying to separate the brg from the bracket, on the car. And when you loosened the 3 14 mm bolts holding the bracket to the eng.,, it practically fell off the dowels. And only took a few whacks to pull the axle out. I had to beat on mine for an hour, B4 it would unlodge. And it "was" off the dowels. When I separated the 2 brackets holding the brg, (on the floor), I thought re-assy would be so much easier. It wasn't. It's a nasty job, and he deserves his money.
I say use a slide hammer and the the c part that holds it and you will probably be able to get it. It's the fact you are hitting it on one side if you can get it equally on both sides it comes out better. Or use the tuning forks made for pulling cv axles. Haven't used them but heard they work. Might try it next time. All parts can be rented from Autozone. Far as the c part it doesn't fit I had to cut mine wider to fit onto the cv axle. Worst case do this. Or if you got money and don't care buy a new one from Toyota for 200+ but sure most people won't do that. That passenger side is always trouble sadly
I have an 03 and won't be looking forward to removing that bearing bracket if I do it myself. I think I'd probably spend the extra 50-100 for a new bearing bracket. I see the half shaft listed at 75-100 plus the bearing bracket and I'd expect to spend a couple hundred on parts. I think I'd try to get some antiseize on the retainer spring clip as well as put it all over that bearing bracket realizing that the antiseize will probably not do a whole lot but worth a try.
@@RBTheMechanic Actually, I watched several of the passenger side axle videos and read a bunch of comments and you covered every question and concern people experienced when they did the job themselves after they watched other videos. The biggest problem people had was that stupid bearing bracket. So, to me, after seeing and hearing all the problems with bearing bracket, I'd just replace it. The thing I'd be concerned about in replacing it is getting the exact right one. I googled them and there's several slightly different looking ones. I'll deal with when the time comes. Thanks for making such a good video. After watching it, I feel confident in getting it done.
I replaced this same axle a year ago with a Cardone remanufactured axle. I’m getting ready to do it again because the bearing went bad. Should I buy a new Toyota axle this time? I don’t want to do it again!!
@@RBTheMechanic I don’t know if it’s because mine is Canadian but the cup of the shaft and the bracket is fatter. I’m thinking about buying some sawzall blades and cutting the axle between the cup and C-clip. Loved the video though massive help.
If you remove that screw at the bottom of the axle will give you enough play to be able to squeeze that retaining ring right now it’s all forced against it
Doing my sianna now and i was thinking to remove the bracket exactly as u did, ok removed the 3screws from bracket but it only moved a bit then gets stuck on the metal there is no other way just by cutting axle, thats what i will be doing, god willing, ok cut it ,but was impossible to take out the broken axle from the carrier bracket, until i broke the thin metal ring with a flat screwdriver and hammer until discovered the balls, then moved all balls to other side away from screw hole on side of bracket, then forced a long screw in there until it broke the ring then knocked a flat screw driver by crack and got it all out, can tell you all that this is the only way possible, anyone telling u that he knocked it out under the car,is probably a giant lier, this was on a 2008 sianna
@@RBTheMechanic i removed the 3 screws it moved a bit but it hits the metal and will not come out, so im gonna slice the axle with my grinder, there is no way it can come out,
@@RBTheMechanic yea I won't pay it, fuck that. A little more complicated shouldn't cost 2k extra. Job seems like it takes an hour to do or less. Why u think its more complicated if u don't mind me asking?
Identical for 2015 RAV4. I wish I saw your video sooner. I got hung at the bearing mount alignment pins. You took a crowbar to it…I could not figure it out so I paid a mobile mechanic to come figure it out. I sent him on his way once the axle with mount were off the vehicle. Toyota is evil any FYI, check out the unavailable space under a RAV4 to manage the repair you showed… no room.
No pb blaster ? Not supporting the housing while beating on it ?? And you're wondering why it won't come out you got to be kidding me dude and your supposed to be a mechanic??
Sorry My Friend But U Dont Tapp The Axle From The Boot The Old Axle U Get A Big Play Bar And Pry Get From The Back Only Takes Just One Tap Where The Trassmission And The Axle Meet Y Are Killing Your Your Self Doing Wrong😅😅😅😅😅🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦
Tried this myself today and daaamn it sucked. I had the same exact problem as you but on a V6 and it was rusted. I tried to get it out through everything. Then my boy gave it a try and popped out the inner boot and separated the thing. My mouth was open. Then we tried hammering the thing. Still nothing I ended up saying fuck this let me watch a video online. I found yours and when I watched till minute 14 I said "🤣😂bueno even this dude is struggling I'm wrapping this up and giving it to a mechanic." We ended up pushing the car and then leaving it at the abandoned Wendy's parking lot that we were working on.
This is why the estimate needs to include 2 numbers. 1 if the bearing pops right out and 1 if the bearing is frozen in place. If the customer doesn't like it then fuckem, they are a shithead anyways and you don't want their business.
@@sjd7188 cuz u can jammed it on the car it had to be off the car to hit the back end also even if u hammer it on the car u will crack the block Also I have used air hammed before watch my other axle videos I use it for a small amount and for only small impact I would be pissed to have cracked blocked anways I did so many of these there is no luck. Even took it on vice press torch sledge hammed Now days I order bracket and axle
Just did my 07 V6 yesterday. I cut the other side of the axle off at the cv joint cup.. that allows u to put the bracket flat against the supports in a hydraulic press. I have a cheap harbor freight press pops the bearing and axle right out…. If you have a decent bearing separator set you prob dont need to cut the axle. If you are a shop charging the customer by the hour just buy a new bracket cost will net to same for customer
Good video I just bought a new bracket after watching your video. Thank you!
Welcome good idea bracket is the way
I found a good one in the wrecking yard. I've been debating whether to get new or pull the used. After watching this video, I'm thinking, maybe it's a good idea to get the CV axle and bracket as a unit used.
Thank very much. You are the only person to show us to take the racket with the axe. It makes the work much easier
Yup I hate this bracket bearing
If the pin comes out...I'm on day two😅😅😅
Great video. Tip for the V6 owners out there, you cannot do this with the V6 car, as it has the rear engine mount integrated into the axle bearing carrier. The biggest problem with the damn thing is that you can't get any sort of good angle to hammer the axle bearing out of the carrier. So do what I did. Take an electric grinder and cut a one foot section or so out of the axle shaft just on the differential side of the bearing, and then near the differential entry point. That gives you the clearance to get a 4 pound sledgehammer in there to bang directly outward on the axle stub. And then clean and polish the inner race of the axle shaft carrier and put antiseize on the bearing of the new axle before you reinstall.
Yeah that’s a crazy one
Honestly genius
This is the easiest way to remove this axle. Remove bottom locking bolt and retainer clip. Spray with lots of pb blaster. Now drive it for a day as is. The vibration loosens rust and mine slid right out. Heat, and vibration made it simple and quick. You know it's ready when the sound gets louder on excelleration. Vehicle was solid at 350k. .
That would be good attempt but good luck!!
I've got a 03 Lexus that has the same CV axle that gave me the exact same problem!!! It's on way to getting fixed now!!! Thank you brother!!!😄😄😄😄😄😄😄
No problem!!
How’d you remove the bracket?
Thanks man, none of the other videos that I've watched recommend removing the housing. I have greased , beat , pulled, heated and prayed all of which was unsuccessful trying to get my right axle off of my 97 Avalon . I did talk with a mechanic who informed me that this method would have to be used prior to watching your video but I now see exactly how to go about removing that stubborn M@##$$ F@$$$ .
Yeah it’s terrible
On my 1999 Camry I use pb blaster for a couple of days and then an acetylene torch and heat untill you just see the begining of red. If you're careful you won't damage anything. After you heat it quickly go to a 5 lb slide hammer with the special fork end piece that is available. I don't disconnect the lower ball joint either (saves time). It should pop out with a couple of hammers. Finally and most important polish well with sandpaper/emery cloth and coat the inner bracket and bearing with AquaLube before reassembly. Its amazing sticky stuff. When you put it on shock threads for ten years the nut comes off just like day one. Get some and use it on everything.
Tried all that only if ur lucky!! I rather buy new bracket customers don’t wanna wait 4 days for hood or bad news
Great video, I did one on a 96 long time ago and it turned into a big ordeal haha
Now our 2009 needs axles, cut-off wheel ready. Thanks for the vid!
Yeah bro. I buy new bracket now days no more hassle!!!
EXCELLENT VID! But, you’re only one of the vid I seen shows bolting the bearing bracket/pedestal in FIRST. I’m a DIY guy so the other 3 vids show guys wrestling it in. Misleading! I was losing it. I spoke to the owner of CV Axle Express in SLC UT USA. He said put in carrier bearing first. AND, like you said- same for me- went in like butter. And I got an OEM rebuild lifetime warranty from the same guy $80. Great vid, I’m subscribed, thanks a ton.
Nice job thanks for subscribing!!!
PICKLE FORK FOR THE WIN :If you are a DIY and dont have a lift this may work for you. I recently got this job done by using a pickle fork between the housing and the bracket. Then hammer the pickle fork handle toward drivers side. This successfully broke the bearing free of the bracket. Then it was easy to finish the job using the hammer pulley, but i could have just used a hammer and chisel to finish the job since the bearing was loosened by the fork. The hammer pulley did not work by itself until the pickle fork broke the bearing free. This done for a 2002 v6 model the bearing would not move until I used the pickle fork. No cutting or bracket removal was needed.
You inspired A1 auto to make a video on this exact issue. Good job. These bearings with the holder can be a real pain in the suspension. Lol
Yeah this was pice of shit design. Now days I order the bracket and get it over with
Although cutting the passenger-side CV axle is a great idea, I believe a straight die grinder is the wrong tool because it does not allow one to cut the axle where it really needs to be cut: flush behind the tulip (the tripod housing), the structure which inhibit access to one of the bracket’s fasteners. Accordingly, the proper tool to use is a Sawzall employing a “Lenox Thick Metal 6-in. Lazer CT Carbide Tip (6108RCT)" or "Diablo Steel Demon 6-in. Thick Metal Carbide Teeth (DS0608CF)" blade. As you cut, turn the axle and traverse toward the center like the phonographic needle on a record player. To begin, drench the blade with cutting oil and when the sparks fly, drench it again and again. So cutting the CV axle on both sides of the bracket, allows one to easily and quickly remove it in three parts. First, remove the outboard section. Second, remove the bracket’s fasteners and then remove the carrier bearing bracket along with its portion of the CV axle. Finally, remove the inboard (or transmission) portion. Now the only task remaining is to salvage the carrier bearing bracket by pounding-out the small remnant of the CV axle held within.
I just hate this design so now I just order bracket with it
Great vid. Already spent last weekend trying to hammer it out of the bearing sleeve. Doing kids 1998 Camry. Going to have to use engine hoist to hold engine up since the bracket is part of the engine rear mount. Who the hell thought that design was any good.
Oh ok yeah that one is crazy
Do not cut the shaft. Remove bracket with axle. Place the end of the shaft against the concrete and apply light hammer blows to alternating sides of the bearing bracket. The reason it is not coming out for RB is because he is holding it and his hand is absorbing the impact of the blows. Is it best to use a piece of aluminum or brass hammer to avoid damaging the bearing bracket. I just changed this on a 2003 Toyota Camry last night and it took about 40 minutes from start to finish. Also of note, using some emery cloth to clean the inside of the bearing would be far better than the die grinder with flapper wheel. It is meant to be a tight fit. I installed the bearing bracket on the new axle before install (same method) as it is easier to verify it is fully seated. Another helpful hint, if you are doing this on the ground like I was and you jack up and put only the right side on a jack stand, you don't have to drain the transmission. The fluid will not run out when replacing the RH axle. Happy building folks.
I now days order new bracket get it over with or don’t do it. Bad design
crazy bro, no safety glass, big respect
Yeah but must use safty glasses now days I use mad glasses and ear plugs
@@RBTheMechanic Air hammer will work. Have you tried. I saw some vdo, it gets off so easy. Using pickle bit. May be you can show us next time please
@@kack7130 dosent work tried it all
@@RBTheMechanic really? I am planning to get the shorter air hammer and hit it. Will I have the luck, i am diy. pray for me please. they want 1000 per axel
@@kack7130 good luck!! Update us how it goes
for being in New jersey up in the rust belt that car is remarkably clean
Yea
Solvent, heat and a vice are NOT really optional for this procedure, unless you enjoy pissing yourself off and wasting time (never know). Spraying solvent the day prior helps but I personally remove that "useless" 14mm bolt that is not useless and fill the bolt hole with grease, then thread the bolt back into the hole and tighten it down forcing the grease under high pressure into the housing. After forcing the grease in you can apply some moderate heat to the housing and start hitting the CV housing outward while it is still bolted in the vehicle...or (better method) you can just remove the axle and bearing carrier and walk over to the vice and work on it there. After the bearing comes out, clean up the bearing housing and apply anti-seize to the bearing and housing, then button it all back up. You're welcome
I sure will try this method next time very nice trick with grease forced in!!! Thanks!!
I've had tremendous results by using out that bolt on the bottom on the carrier bracket and drilling a hole into the bearing race then using a punch to break the race and it'll come right out of the carrier bracket
Never worked for me
Thanks for the video, I'm about to order the part(s) for this job soon, do you know if there is a bearing near where the splines that go to the transmission side and axle meet?
I'm hearing a rumbling noise when going at higher speeds (60mph) in that area when I lifted up the car I hear it slightly (close to the transmission and where the axle meets) (no popping when driving). I've been trying to find a diagram though can't seem to find one that shows it clearly
Just the bearing on the bracket part of axle
@@RBTheMechanic thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to respond
If your reading this don’t try to use one of the other 3 bolts to break the race, the bolt will break off inside
Just took the whole goddamn thing out and bought a new bracket for $50 bucks at oreilly before I hurt myself getting it off.
Nice job that’s my plan
Now I know what I'm in for.
Thanks 😊
You bet!
Thank you for your teaching experience
Welcome
Good info helped me do my Pontiac vibe
I could not get my axle to slide in all the way and saw you just ram it like that 😂 thanks bud
Good job!
Great video very safe. You should put eyes in sparks
Yes I do now
Im working on a 2008 Dodge caliber rt front passenger side and I've got everything tore down except for the CV axle. I've changed quiet a few axles but none that go into a bracket and then another axle that goes into the transmission
Oh ok yeah bracket is kinda bs to do
Have you tried a pickle fork? It took mine out in seconds from my Scion Tc. Used the angled tip one, not the solid blocked one
I tried everything even out it on the floor and hammer it in the back directly
Great job Sir thank you, i have a question do i need to replace the axle shaft seal that goes in the transmission? just to be in a safe spot.
No if it’s no leaking don’t touch it
@@RBTheMechanic ok ty
How do you know when it's time to replace this part?
Usully it will start to make click click noise or boot rips apart and greasing comes out other wise I would replace it about 90k miles regardless
Was there not a keeper ring a bolt or anything on the end that goes into the transmission?
No
Ok what is the long rod that goes from the bracket into the transmission called? Because when I'm ordering parts it don't show that it only shows the cv axle going from the knuckle to the bracket
It’s intermediate shaft
that 14 mm bolt in the carrier housing should serve as some sort of "set screw" to keep the outer race from ever spinning. when you tighten a set screw you should tighten it once, back it off and then tighten it again no torque spec imo
Im from jersey and needed to do this to drive home for the Holidays! I'm bringing my 20 ton press so I can do control arm bushings, bearings so on. 7:50 STORY OF MY LIFE (Fluid leaked on top of me) hahaha
My axle was loose on the gearbox side & had play in it after replacing the axle. Is my differential shot?
After doing this with a 20 ton press. Its super impressive you got that bearing carry out with a freakin HAMMER!
God bless you
I struggled taking that bearing out not sure about ur differential drive it till it gives up or check ur axle usually the have some type of movement but shouldn’t be lot like u said
@@RBTheMechanic Oh ok thanks!
@@RBTheMechanic Do you have a shop in NNJ? I'd much rather have my mother take her CR-V to you when it needs stuff.
@@andrewchristiansen8311 yes I’m up both no Bayonne 997 broadway
Im a toyota tech in the rust belt and we ALWAYS change the braket with the rhd axle. I honestly didn't even know it was possible to remove that bearing without breaking it lol
Man now days I change with bracket
Sooooo you’re telling me if I buy another bracket with the snap ring I can just go straight to unbolting the bracket & it’ll come right out ? Obviously after making space for yourself to slide it out.
I just did one last week on my buddy car a 2007 Camry and i used a 2x4 wood and hit it on the bearing support after i took off the bolts and hit the axel and it came right off with the support and then took off the retainer and then i Used a A Malet but the rubber one and sprayed some B-12 Oil to penetrate and then i hit the ears where the bolt goes thru of that support and it came off did take a couple of hits but it came off and then i put the new one and also the one on the driver side as well and when i put it on i went ahead and put the axl back into the transmission and then bolted down the support and was done and that's how I did it ..
I hate this design now I install new bracket
Does the support bearing ever go bad before the axle bearings? My axle boots look good but I am afraid the support bearing in the bracket might go bad first.
They don’t usully go bad I never had a case of it
@@RBTheMechanic Nice to hear that. Thanks
My carrier bearing went bad. Made a roaring type noise so replaced the axel and it fixed the problem. Great video Thanks!
The best 70-100 dollar you can spend is to get a new bracket before this job, and Dremel cut the old bracket (make a cut to the width of the bracket where the bearing sit), literally 5 min and that bearing will be out. This is what I learned after spending 3 days hammering , using slide hammer, heat , unable to cut the old cv using sawzall, all of it) . Just go get a new bracket and cut old one off. You will spend same money on material and frustration and on time trying to get this out any other way.
Yup that’s what u do now tell the customer prior to doing the job
If it’s not leaking.. drive it til it breaks. Luckily this part doesn’t go bad on them often but when they do.. add an hour at least to your estimate. You can also just buy another carrier/bracket. It’s not that much more even from the dealer. At advance the bracket is 87$ for a dorman or 93$ at Toyota. It just makes this a lot easier… you might just save money and aching joints going this route!
Oh yeah that’s what I do from this point on axle and the bearing Carrier housing and the retainer
Mine got real clunky
Great video this helped me a lot and I got the job done! Thank you sir
Nice job!!
I just did a 1989 Camry passenger CV Axle, got retainer out & 14mm bolt, Axle came out of Bracket with a few Good Smacks🤙
But, had problem installing Rebuilt Axle🤔 I greased the bearing, but The Bearing was not sliding into bracket properly 😢 Had to remove inner joint Boot & Tap Axle, to get Bearing in place, but now Bearing is Damaged🤬🤬
Since you Removed Axle & bearing bracket from vehicle, Why can't you install new Axle and bearing into bracket with retainer, then install into vehicle???
I'm trying it with my replacement part ☺️
I was able to do it remove it and install it with new axle u kinda have to yank it bit
Have you seen the Vibration with an Air Hammer Technique?
The idea is that when an air hammer -- with a blunt tip -- is used to VIBRATE the carrier -- not the axle, not the bearing -- perpendicular to the axis of the axle shaft -- it causes the rust to break down -- and then the axle w/bearing just 'walks' out. No prying is used at all.
(!)
Yes, the 14mm bolt and snap ring are removed, first, obviously. Google cv axle toyota sienna 2015 (tech-vet) for a video that astounds.
SMH new bracket and axle!! Done deal lesson learned!’
You've got more patience than me.
Lol yeah jobs goes smooth when u go easy and be patient
Did you try the hammer puller that works easylly.
No when this is stuck nothing gonna work
They don't always lol. My slide hammer did zip
Good video. I just went thru this W/a 2014 Scion TC. Forget about trying to separate the brg from the bracket, on the car. And when you loosened the 3 14 mm bolts holding the bracket to the eng.,, it practically fell off the dowels. And only took a few whacks to pull the axle out. I had to beat on mine for an hour, B4 it would unlodge. And it "was" off the dowels. When I separated the 2 brackets holding the brg, (on the floor), I thought re-assy would be so much easier. It wasn't. It's a nasty job, and he deserves his money.
I would say just buy another bracket. They’re not insanely priced at all even from dealer.
GRACIAS! yo me compre un civic 2011 y cuando fuy a cambiar a el passenger side eso es lo q encontre gracias amigo!
Sorry I don’t kno Spanish but no problem you welcome!
I say use a slide hammer and the the c part that holds it and you will probably be able to get it. It's the fact you are hitting it on one side if you can get it equally on both sides it comes out better. Or use the tuning forks made for pulling cv axles. Haven't used them but heard they work. Might try it next time. All parts can be rented from Autozone. Far as the c part it doesn't fit I had to cut mine wider to fit onto the cv axle. Worst case do this. Or if you got money and don't care buy a new one from Toyota for 200+ but sure most people won't do that. That passenger side is always trouble sadly
Yeah idk now days I get the bracket to go with it
I have an 03 and won't be looking forward to removing that bearing bracket if I do it myself. I think I'd probably spend the extra 50-100 for a new bearing bracket. I see the half shaft listed at 75-100 plus the bearing bracket and I'd expect to spend a couple hundred on parts. I think I'd try to get some antiseize on the retainer spring clip as well as put it all over that bearing bracket realizing that the antiseize will probably not do a whole lot but worth a try.
Yeah I do recommend that for new customer don’t want to go through hell
@@RBTheMechanic Actually, I watched several of the passenger side axle videos and read a bunch of comments and you covered every question and concern people experienced when they did the job themselves after they watched other videos. The biggest problem people had was that stupid bearing bracket. So, to me, after seeing and hearing all the problems with bearing bracket, I'd just replace it. The thing I'd be concerned about in replacing it is getting the exact right one. I googled them and there's several slightly different looking ones. I'll deal with when the time comes. Thanks for making such a good video. After watching it, I feel confident in getting it done.
Very well done
Thank u
Awesome thanks for your help 👍
I replaced this same axle a year ago with a Cardone remanufactured axle. I’m getting ready to do it again because the bearing went bad. Should I buy a new Toyota axle this time? I don’t want to do it again!!
Buy new even if it’s after market not rebuilt
My axle covers the bottom bolt of the bracket 🧐 such a pain
Use wrench
@@RBTheMechanic I don’t know if it’s because mine is Canadian but the cup of the shaft and the bracket is fatter. I’m thinking about buying some sawzall blades and cutting the axle between the cup and C-clip. Loved the video though massive help.
@@habitualbuilder459 oh I had to use wrench on one of them the cup was blocking it
@@RBTheMechanic (update) used my sawzall cut the shaft rite in front of the bearing. Worked like a charm.
Title is wrong. It's the "RHS" axle.
Can l go 30 days before l fix the right side
Can’t say yea or no it’s somthing u should get fixed immediately
Why not just by a bearing cradle too? Save alot of time and stress
The what?
I can't believe your not wearing safety goggles while cutting that
I do now days!!
Mine has 2 retaining clips on it and i think a lot of people don't see the second one
Only one
I might just buy the bracket just in case mine don't come out. But I've been drenching it with rust penetrant for a while now.
I got a press @ Harbor freight for 150$
Naval Jelly dissolves rust. For those with the time -- who can wait -- miracles can happen.
It's tuff...I've yet to remove the pin...he even harder getting a hold of the 14mm holding the carrier tucked behind the cup😅😅😅 its day 2
Yeah
Nice job ,Where is your shop located?
Bayonne nj
@@RBTheMechanic Thank you ,but I’m in CA keep do it good job and good luck
If you remove that screw at the bottom of the axle will give you enough play to be able to squeeze that retaining ring right now it’s all forced against it
Nothing work not works at all. I repeat nothing works at all
That's a good idea just to have a new carrier bearing on hand they don't come out in the rust belt.
I hate these I order bracket as well now replace them both
@@RBTheMechanic the bolt trick does work, please use some safety glasses.
@@TheOutwiththeold yup thanks
Would penetrating oil help?
Tried all didn’t work
Maybe add rust penetrate,could help
Dosent work try what ever u want I buy new brackets and do it all togatherrr not worth the labor
Thank you bro
Doing my sianna now and i was thinking to remove the bracket exactly as u did, ok removed the 3screws from bracket but it only moved a bit then gets stuck on the metal there is no other way just by cutting axle, thats what i will be doing, god willing, ok cut it ,but was impossible to take out the broken axle from the carrier bracket, until i broke the thin metal ring with a flat screwdriver and hammer until discovered the balls, then moved all balls to other side away from screw hole on side of bracket, then forced a long screw in there until it broke the ring then knocked a flat screw driver by crack and got it all out, can tell you all that this is the only way possible, anyone telling u that he knocked it out under the car,is probably a giant lier, this was on a 2008 sianna
Yup this is crazy design
@@RBTheMechanic i removed the 3 screws it moved a bit but it hits the metal and will not come out, so im gonna slice the axle with my grinder, there is no way it can come out,
@@jackrapiport6824 yeah do that
In a lexus es330 that bolt from the bottom of the bracket is behind the axle, so you dont have any room to remove it
That might be diffrent
That's where I'm at. It's behind the axle and can't get any damn tool on there. Fml.
@@RBTheMechanic yo RB. I read another comment about grease in that 14 mil hole... have you tried it? did it work?
@@alfredflores4017 I haven’t tried it bout it sounds like a good idea
Hi... how much you charge to do this job please?
Mannn I did cuss my self out but labor is $145 if all goes smooth
Brand new axle $115
I have a 2009 lexus es350 and the dealership wants over 3k to do this.....
@@jacobbuckey3511 they r crazy urs is lil complicated but 3k they r wild
@@RBTheMechanic yea I won't pay it, fuck that. A little more complicated shouldn't cost 2k extra. Job seems like it takes an hour to do or less. Why u think its more complicated if u don't mind me asking?
Damn son just install a new bracket after all that lol
Identical for 2015 RAV4. I wish I saw your video sooner. I got hung at the bearing mount alignment pins. You took a crowbar to it…I could not figure it out so I paid a mobile mechanic to come figure it out. I sent him on his way once the axle with mount were off the vehicle. Toyota is evil any FYI, check out the unavailable space under a RAV4 to manage the repair you showed… no room.
Yeah these suck
Please wear safety shield
Will do
Oh man id just buy the new bracket
Yup
This is on right side(passenger side) NOT LEFT SIDE
Yes sorry right passenger side
The axle comes out as one assembly why are we fooling around with the axle bearing !!!
Bracket is not part of axle bearing is in bracket stuck. Just buy new bracket
Spent ten hours on my seized axle. Should have just cut in half
Yeah
Made me laugh thanks
Please start using LIQUID WRENCH
I'm not lying to you c'mon,
Use liquid wrench
What Fluid are you Talking about???
If you cut it.... that's the core they want at NAPA
Happy 4th the July man • Awesome Fireworks ☆☆☆☆☆☆☆
@@jaimeobando7933thx
Cut it outside so you don’t blow up the shop. All them flammables in the back there!!!
Juan Santos next time
Looks like a vice would be good to hold it limiting its freedom.
Yeah but I did what I had to
I totally understand. There was a change to the camry. They integrated the bearing race to the engine mount and oil pan. A 2001. It's a real bugger.
@@robertvanderbaan3722 yeah they crazy
How did you REMOVE the retainer ●
Use nose player and screw driver flat head
No pb blaster ? Not supporting the housing while beating on it ?? And you're wondering why it won't come out you got to be kidding me dude and your supposed to be a mechanic??
Try it urself then we talk how good is PB blast
PB blaster woulda helped a lot. Also hit the bracket with an air hammer to break the rust.
I don’t that many times before all kinds of shit and used heat was afraid to over do burn the engine seals so now days I just order new bracket
No eye protection is killing me. 9:09 No cutting needed just use PENETRANT and a VICE
Thanks I use my glasses and max now days
😂 us shade tree mechanics rarely use eye protection get rust in the eye flush it out and keep going. Old school
Sorry My Friend But U Dont Tapp The Axle From The Boot The Old Axle U Get A Big Play Bar And Pry Get From The Back Only Takes Just One Tap Where The Trassmission And The Axle Meet Y Are Killing Your Your Self Doing Wrong😅😅😅😅😅🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦🤦
Lol ok
Wear some safety glasses 🤔
Nah thats for wimps
Flammable chemical boxes on the left...dude😂🤦♂️....
This is right side
Yuppp
Tried this myself today and daaamn it sucked. I had the same exact problem as you but on a V6 and it was rusted. I tried to get it out through everything. Then my boy gave it a try and popped out the inner boot and separated the thing. My mouth was open. Then we tried hammering the thing. Still nothing I ended up saying fuck this let me watch a video online. I found yours and when I watched till minute 14 I said "🤣😂bueno even this dude is struggling I'm wrapping this up and giving it to a mechanic."
We ended up pushing the car and then leaving it at the abandoned Wendy's parking lot that we were working on.
Lol brooo. This is me to new customers that need axle. Sit u need axle and bracket. Or I can’t do it
@@RBTheMechanic that's facts I should of had the brains and saw your video. At least I would of had a drivable car.
@@RaidONE4theONE bad design bro I did for the bracket had 2 bolt that splits the bracket in 2 parts and book axle comes out 30 minutes full job.
@@RBTheMechanic wow that's how long the job should be 30-40 minutes.
if you quote a customer for a job and then charge more for your incompetence I doubt they will return.
I give estimate not 100% accurate price
It's not the mechanics fault that the part rusted and required more work.
This is why the estimate needs to include 2 numbers. 1 if the bearing pops right out and 1 if the bearing is frozen in place. If the customer doesn't like it then fuckem, they are a shithead anyways and you don't want their business.
Has anyone thought about replacing the bearing $100.00 or less on rock auto,time is money 💰
U mean the bracket? Bearing comes with axle now on new jobs I recommend new bracket no wasting time on these not worth it
😂😂😂
I had to saw mine out while it was on my ES330. Horrible job!
Yeah this is crazy lately I had all axles stuck in hub
Líquid Wrench
Agreed. The Project Farm channel posted a vodcast, "Which Penetrating Oil is Best? Let's find out!," finding Liquid Wrench being the best.
I guess he does not own a vice, air hammer or a hydraulic press
Got Alll 3 try it urself they will be useless !!! U just need to experience it
@@RBTheMechanic then why are u hammering it on the floor holding it with your hands.
@@sjd7188 cuz u can jammed it on the car it had to be off the car to hit the back end also even if u hammer it on the car u will crack the block
Also I have used air hammed before watch my other axle videos I use it for a small amount and for only small impact I would be pissed to have cracked blocked anways
I did so many of these there is no luck. Even took it on vice press torch sledge hammed
Now days I order bracket and axle
@@sjd7188 air hammed snap on $500 in This video
ruclips.net/video/nGwi1kid5Ps/видео.html
Just did my 07 V6 yesterday. I cut the other side of the axle off at the cv joint cup.. that allows u to put the bracket flat against the supports in a hydraulic press. I have a cheap harbor freight press pops the bearing and axle right out…. If you have a decent bearing separator set you prob dont need to cut the axle. If you are a shop charging the customer by the hour just buy a new bracket cost will net to same for customer