Wooden Fishing Lure Testing: How deep do you need to embed your twist wire?
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- If you are into making wooden fishing lures, you have probably encountered situations that leave you with very little space for hardware. In this episode we take a look at just how deep you need to embed that twist wire to ensure it doesn't get pulled out.
TOOLS, GEAR & MERCH (paid links)
www.zimmtexlures.com
MORE LURE MAKING VIDEOS
Making Wooden Glidebaits & Swimbaits: • Making Wooden Glide Ba...
Making Wooden Crankbaits & Jerkbaits: • Making Wooden Crankbai...
Making Wooden Poppers:
• Making Wooden Poppers ...
Wooden Lure Testing:
• Wooden Lure Testing by...
Skills & Techniques:
• Zimmtex Uploads
MORE CONTENT
Follow me on Instagram
/ zimmtex
DISCLAIMER: Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide, I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my channel so I can continue to provide you with free content!
Hey! Thanks man for the shout out! You do nice work.
Hi, thank you for stopping by! I really appreciate your approach to lure making, truly top notch!
The amazing thing about epoxy is the internal strength you can get in the resin. We often use epoxy to embed 2 inch diameter bolts in the decks of concrete bridges and the epoxy is much stronger than the concrete. Its the same with wood. The failure mode will almost always be wood rupture. So we have to consider the interplay; direction of the grain, cross sectional area near the load, and the angle of the load. All those variables are always in play. The nice thing is that you show how easy it is to get plenty of strength...nice job.
Many thanks, I really appreciate your comments! I am very interested in all things relating to lures. It's easy for me to get caught up in the anesthetics, but a good lure must perform structurally and functionally.
So what do you guys think is the strongest way to do it, I would like to start making glide baits out of resin is there any tips on what I should do?
@@zacharythomas6134 If you are casting resin lures, you can of course set your wire in the mold prior to pouring. However, you can also attach your ballast weight to that wire and encase it all at once. It will take some trial and error to get the proper configuration and weight, but once you do you can really crank em out.
Really be interesting to do the same test but 'roughen' up the wire before twist into form... You rough up most materials before gluing to increase adhesion strength why not wire!? Wire is very smooth and the only 'mechanical' aid to the strength is the twist of the wire... Another idea... Maybe less twist is better? The gap between the wire twists would be larger and thefore ... Possibly... Give more grip... Maybe even put small pins in the twist creating 'holes' that the epoxy can flow through anchoring the epoxy... Maybe the basic Haywire light twist like in a leader set up is all you need... More twist more fatigue in the wire... Also something to consider... Great video!
Thought to send you the questions I posed on this channel... See if you would be interested in the questions... Less twist better? 'Rough' wire ... More adhesion? 'Holes' in the twist giving an anchor effect with epoxy flow through? With looser twist would a bigger hole that accommodates more epoxy give a more anchor effect? Would a more flexible epoxy give more strength? Micro bungee effect? All kinds of ideas popping into my head... Curious of your thoughts Franco!
@@zimmtexsent the same questions to Franco that I posed to you... Plus a few more came up when addressing them to him... Like now... What about a figure 8 twist with a small loop embedded in the epoxy?
Great test! No game fish will ever pull these out. Before that your line will break. Have you ever tried to lift a 2kg weight with your MH bass rod? Its almost impossible. These fish are not as strong as you might think. Of course you need some backup for head shakes ect. But 30lb would probably be enough for muskies
True enough! When you consider big saltwater fish without drag, they would yank you right out of the boat!
The rod, drag, and movement of the fish will lend to the strength of the wires and glue. Pulling solidly against them is like when they're hung up and the line will give first in that case, in my opinion. Nice video though. Thanks for the input.
You are completely right. In fact, I made another video testing a big saltwater poppers and the hook and swivel failed. If you didn't have the cushion of the rod and drag, those bigger fish could probably pull you in! Thanks for watching!
Great test! Thank you. I often wondered how much strength a twist wire had. Keep the vids coming.
I appreciate you saying so, I will keep em coming!
Great test. I had already watched the engineered anglers test and this was a great addition to that info. 👍
I appreciate you checking it out!
wow, great info, I'm amazed at how well the 1/4" held up. I think that should hold up for all my trout and bass fishing.. Thanks again for a great video.
I'm glad you like it!
It would be interesting to see the difference between your wood testing and resin cast lures. Thru wire vs twisted.
That would be interesting! Maybe I'll get around to that one of these days. Thanks for the suggestion!
very good test , helps me when i glue in my hook hangers, thanks for the video.
Good deal! Thank you for your interest.
Real facts, well done. But with the size of fish I catch, I'll never have any problems :-)
You never know when you might cross paths with that big fish. Thanks for watching!
Glad to see Chico being mentioned, it's funny how sometimes we have the same references
Like when I found out Paul from the handmade fisherman was one of engineered angler's references and I've found Paul commenting on EA videos 😁 similar minds to tend to find each other naturally
So true!
@@zimmtex answered me while I was watching you swimbait video haha
Excellent video well done.
Many thanks!
Hi, Great data and testing! Well done! Now that you know what the lure will take in a static test, the next and final piece in the puzzle would be to see how much pressure/pull is actually put on the lure in a fishing situation with a well set drag…..I think in a fresh water situation, it would be lucky to be 1/5 of what the lure is capable of taking. Cheers😀
Thanks for watching; I'm glad you found this interesting. Great suggestion! I do have more lure testing ideas on the horizon.
Really be interesting to do the same test but 'roughen' up the wire before twist into form... You rough up most materials before gluing to increase adhesion strength why not wire!? Wire is very smooth and the only 'mechanical' aid to the strength is the twist of the wire... Another idea... Maybe less twist is better? The gap between the wire twists would be larger and thefore ... Possibly... Give more grip... Maybe even put small pins in the twist creating 'holes' that the epoxy can flow through anchoring the epoxy... Maybe the basic Haywire light twist like in a leader set up is all you need... More twist more fatigue in the wire... Also something to consider... Great video!
Thank you for sharing your thoughts; I think you have some great ideas for adding grip! I'm glad this test provoked some innovative thought!
Great test, thanks for sharing!
You bet, thanks for watching!
Thanks.......very informative........
Thank you for watching!
Very helpful stuff, I was curious about this myself. Keep it up!
Thanks! I wasn't sure if anyone else would find this interesting.
I’m late to this video but most table fish of a few kilo isn’t going to bother the lure at those breaking points , but if chasing big fish I would have wire one piece right through the lures to make sure of no failure from a glue joint and a wire section to pull out , Mostly the hooks are the cause of lost fish or line breaks , great tests though , nice to see.
I think you're right; the biggest test of strength usually comes from trying to pull out a snag. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@zimmtex …yes snags cost us some lures , though there are ways of retrieving lures from snags with poles and weights on lines to desnag lures , don’t always work 100% of the time but do get most lures back just got to get creative lol.
Great video and followup to engineeredangler's, thanks for putting it together. It's impressive how strong this type of hardware can be. Now we just need to come up with a part 3 though: how many load cycles will each length handle. (50lb(?) load on, off, on, off.)
Hmm, you might be on to something there. Thanks for watching!
great test ...when I do use this method.I bend the ends back towards the loop .....I don't thread them in ...just drill a hole so the end is forced in ,so more epoxy can hold it in
I see, a little bit like an arrow. That's a good idea! Thank you for watching!
@@zimmtex try doing one with out epoxy and just screw in and see the difference?
Good Stuff Z !
Thank you!
Enjoyed the video. I’d like to see a similar test with twist wires in straight polyurethane resin.
That could be interesting! Thanks for watching!
Very informative video, thanks for the share!
I'm glad you liked it!
This video is really handy and knowledge that every lure carver should know. I was wondering if the direction of the wood grain made any difference when gluing twist wires/hook eye's into the lure? Plus would the twist wire results be different if glued into other materials such as MDF?
Can you please tell me the sort of 6" ruler that you use, it would be handy to use on foil when marking out scales! Thank you. 👍😷👍🏴
I'm glad you found this useful! Going perpendicular to the grain (through several rings) is stronger than drilling parallel to the grain (between the rings). Your results would be different for a different type or even species of wood. However, this gives you a basic idea of what strengths you can expect. I found that ruler in my local hobby store. It reads 'Westcott' on it. Thanks for watching!
Great video man.
Thanks!
what size hole are you drilling...does it have to be tight....or loose for the glue
It should be tight enough to not fall out on its own, but not so tight that there isn't room for glue.
great test sir!
Thanks!
May I ask why you don’t run one straight wire through the whole body? I’ve been watching different pages on who they make swim baits and crank baits and this is the first page I’ve seen where you drill and insert the loops. Has me interested because seems to be less work and not having to split the wood in half to add in the wire loops
Through wire is preferred for bigger fish or for use in really soft wood like balsa. I think drilled twist eyes are plenty strong for bass and such so long as your wood is dense enough. Thanks for watching!
@@zimmtex ahhh that makes sense! So drill and insert loops wouldn’t work well with Balsa? That’s probably what I’ll start off with tbh for some top water/cranks
Thanks!
I've used half inch with 5 min epoxy and would assume that would withstand very well, though I think 30 min epoxy used could create better bonding with wood.
As a suggestion, I guess super glue could be a real contender to epoxy and would create better and stronger bond.
I’ve used both and never lost a fish on either but superglue although strong tends to become brittle especially when exposed to temperature fluctuations. It doesn’t have any stretch whereas epoxy has some give
@@joelnoles4530 perhaps epoxy is more flexible, but super glue would penetrate wood grain way better and could reinforce embedment area for a stronger bond. Conducting a test would reveal the difference. I expect thin super glue for the same reason outperform gel type, though.
@@joelnoles4530 perhaps epoxy due to its thickness could create a higher flexibility, but a thinner super glue could penetrate deeper into wood grains building a stronger embedment strength. Conducting a test would reveal this theory though. When using a thin super glue, the closest tolerance possible for drilling hole should yield best results.
I make wooden lures also what i do is drill ahole straight through the lure drill ahole at the bottom of my lure insert a swivel inthe bottom hole and then pass the wire through one eye of the swivel and the other eye is for the hook the ends of the wire are twisted to form the other eyes
I have seen that technique; it is often used with big poppers. Keep up the good work!
I often wonder if the glue is getting down into the hole when gluing in my twist wires. Great testing!
Thank you for checking it out!
Love the torture tests... My last trip I had so many terminal tackle failures that now I'm testing everything myself... I don't trust the manufactures ratings anymore:)
The worst so far has been split rings and snaps... I'm still testing other more known brands but found out that many gave up way lower than what they were rated... Any advice?
I don't know if you've tried them but I have had good luck with Owner. I haven't tested all of their stuff but haven't had any failures in real life fishing circumstances. Thanks for watching and for commenting!
Do threaded eyes hold more than twisted wire or has anyone done a test video on that yet ?
Thats a good question! I actually don't have any experience with twist eyes. However, I expect both have more than enough strength for lure making. Might make for an interesting test.
What if you scuff up the wire that is going into the bait with sandpaper so the epoxy bonds better 🤷🏻♂️ if it holds 50 pounds it’s going to do the job unless your blue fin tuna fishing. Anyways great video 👍🏽
I think you are right! Thanks for stopping by!
Really interesting topic presented very clearly, thanks a lot for doing this.
Looking at the epoxy loss on the twist wire have you considered a back to back test using wires of one length but wound looser so there is a more rippled bonding surface along the twisted wire?
Interesting idea! If you had a need for extreme strength that might give you a little bit more strength. Another side effect would be that the wire wouldn't be as stretched and stressed. Thanks for the suggestion and for watching!
Great content...
Thanks!
👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks!
Maybe it’s just me but I would love to see how to paint that test dummy looking paint scheme on the lipless! Awesome video
Hey Kyle! You are not the only one to say so. I have some more testing video ideas , so I will include that on the next one. Thanks for your input!
No problem!
I would like to get into making lures. Is it possible you could recommend a airbrush and what type of paints to use?
Well, in my opinion you don't need an expensive airbrush to get started. The one I use is affordable and does a pretty good job. There are lots of paints out there, but I happen to use Createx. They are widely available and they have lots of colors. I have most of the stuff I use linked in the description if you are interested. Thanks for watching!
@@zimmtex I agree with you, but if you want detailed work, a good airbrush is key. I started with a cheap airbrush, but while I was getting better, I needed something better to have a more detailed paintjob
Absolutely, as your skill improves you will benefit from nicer tools. Plus, it doesn't hurt to keep the older one for a backup. It's really easy to drop these things and they always seem to land on the needle.
Could you do a video showing what you did to paint the yellow lure
You bet! I can include that on the next torture test video. Thanks for watching!
Wow thats amazing 134 lbs on a static pull with 1 1/4 inch thats enough even for a big fish at sea what kind of wood do u use?
This test was conducted on poplar. Thanks for watching!
@@zimmtexdo u use it becouse poplar wood is soft? Easy ro handcarf
Yes it is easy to carve, but also durable.
there is no fish that could pull that hard...trust me!!!
Thanks for your support!
I find these tests are lacking one ingredient. The violent shaking of the fish's head.
What I need is a pond full of really big aggressive fish to test lures on. :)