I have now used the .44 kit for 4 months. It is easy to use and makes good cartridges. I have personalized your steps . I recommend the kit. The beewax lube is very good. I do not always use paper cartridges at the range.
Great video! Several years ago saw a video from Svartkrutt on paper cartridges, and used a dowel to make a mandrel and started making paper cartridges since then things have gotten better. Thank you for making it easier.
I wear gloves when handling the lead zinc bullets and the powder. As a measurer a .380 cartridge case with the spent primer still intact. Gives me a touch over 12 ounces for my 1851 navy revolver
Correct! I use the zig zag 1.5 but your punch is mine also... 5/8 and 3/4 I use elmers glue that is purple but dries clear. I made the 31 kit using a block of teflon 3/4" thick. The mandrel is made of wood and tapered and has an O ring at the cutting off edge. it is a great guide for a razor blade. The holes in the block are tapered slightly.. but I have like ten holes. this allows me to make em and leave em till they dry.. by the time I get to the tenth? the rest are dry. The O ring makes for a flare that sticks up a tad above the block. this allows a glued ball to 'fall' into the formed case. I drive the ball down with the edge of the cover for the glue stick. Not important for the conicals you use but essential for the round balls I use. again... by the time I finish the last I can punch em out of the block... having now 10 finished paper cartridges Oh... powder? I just use a flask I cut all my papers ahead of time I leave excess at the top and the bottom and just trim it off with a razor blade that I touch up with a stone every few rounds.. this is simple and results in sharper than factory. I said finished but they are not. I use a tray with lube (half beezwax and half tallow) and dip the ends into it. For 31 caliber I use a 22lr plastic case of 100 And yeah... LOL I get glue all over my fingers gluing balls... that is why 10 holes is better than one. and yes.. rolling a straight paper onto a tapered mandrel is problematic... but who cares? just roll it and trim both ends. a wrinkle? who cares? long as the small end goes into the chamber and the rest goes in far enough to turn the cyl under the ram? The gun does not care how ugly you made the round. nor... how compact the powder charge was in the cartridge. if that makes sense. I think the flare in the 'case' is important as you do not get the 'goofs' you mention. Kits... could do this by simply making the ball/conical end on the mandrel have a flare... none I know of do.
I like to use papers that are not burned after shots co chambers are protected from residues that stick to them becouse paper cover. Ans when i shoot and reload i have something to take that half burned paper out. For cicles i use tea bags. (For constant paper thicknes and sure that fit my chambers , templates that i make i use paper from shop receipts. I was use flash papers but in shorts i stop use it becouse with time they make more problems that pros.
Interesting. So, for a New Army in .44, do the paper cartridges drop easily into each cylinder? Then use the load lever to seat the cartridge? How long can the paper cartridges last if kept in a sealed ammo box? Thanks!
The problem with the Remington is that some conicals will not clear the plunger, paper cartridge or not. What you want is the Johnston and Dow bullet. It is based off an original recovered Civil War bullet and will clear the plunger on the NMA. You can buy the mold and make your own, or there are places that sell them in this shape.
Cap and ball revolver loads. Colt walker (.44 cal), colt dragoon(.44), colt 1851 navy (.36 cal), colt 1860 army (.44), remington 1858 new army (.44), and ruger old army (.44). Both original and reproductions. Paper cartridges were issued during the Civil War, though not universally, so are "period correct". Such cartridges will also work in "confederate pattern" revolvers in the same calibers
No primer in the cartridge. Percussion or "cap and ball" guns use a percussion cap. A percussion cap that goes on the nipple at the back of the cylinder. The hammer hits the primer that ignites the paper cartridge and boom.
I recommend a water dish as opposed to licking your finger as you handle bare lead.
I have now used the .44 kit for 4 months. It is easy to use and makes good cartridges. I have personalized your steps . I recommend the kit. The beewax lube is very good. I do not always use paper cartridges at the range.
Great video! Several years ago saw a video from Svartkrutt on paper cartridges, and used a dowel to make a mandrel and started making paper cartridges since then things have gotten better. Thank you for making it easier.
This is fantastic! I just ordered a kit and block for my 2 ROA’S. Can’t wait to try them out.
Tweezers or a small pair of pliers help in handling/inserting the bullet into the cartridge.
Yes! That's a great tip if you have larger fingers or want to avoid touching lead.
I wear gloves when handling the lead zinc bullets and the powder. As a measurer a .380 cartridge case with the spent primer still intact. Gives me a touch over 12 ounces for my 1851 navy revolver
Do you mean 12 grains?
Correct! I use the zig zag 1.5 but your punch is mine also... 5/8 and 3/4 I use elmers glue that is purple but dries clear. I made the 31 kit using a block of teflon 3/4" thick. The mandrel is made of wood and tapered and has an O ring at the cutting off edge. it is a great guide for a razor blade. The holes in the block are tapered slightly.. but I have like ten holes. this allows me to make em and leave em till they dry.. by the time I get to the tenth? the rest are dry. The O ring makes for a flare that sticks up a tad above the block. this allows a glued ball to 'fall' into the formed case. I drive the ball down with the edge of the cover for the glue stick. Not important for the conicals you use but essential for the round balls I use. again... by the time I finish the last I can punch em out of the block... having now 10 finished paper cartridges Oh... powder? I just use a flask I cut all my papers ahead of time I leave excess at the top and the bottom and just trim it off with a razor blade that I touch up with a stone every few rounds.. this is simple and results in sharper than factory. I said finished but they are not. I use a tray with lube (half beezwax and half tallow) and dip the ends into it. For 31 caliber I use a 22lr plastic case of 100 And yeah... LOL I get glue all over my fingers gluing balls... that is why 10 holes is better than one. and yes.. rolling a straight paper onto a tapered mandrel is problematic... but who cares? just roll it and trim both ends. a wrinkle? who cares? long as the small end goes into the chamber and the rest goes in far enough to turn the cyl under the ram? The gun does not care how ugly you made the round. nor... how compact the powder charge was in the cartridge. if that makes sense. I think the flare in the 'case' is important as you do not get the 'goofs' you mention. Kits... could do this by simply making the ball/conical end on the mandrel have a flare... none I know of do.
"and that...is..a perfect paper cartridge.........................Except it isnt..." LOL excellent delivery.
I like to use papers that are not burned after shots co chambers are protected from residues that stick to them becouse paper cover. Ans when i shoot and reload i have something to take that half burned paper out. For cicles i use tea bags. (For constant paper thicknes and sure that fit my chambers , templates that i make i use paper from shop receipts. I was use flash papers but in shorts i stop use it becouse with time they make more problems that pros.
Interesting. So, for a New Army in .44, do the paper cartridges drop easily into each cylinder? Then use the load lever to seat the cartridge? How long can the paper cartridges last if kept in a sealed ammo box? Thanks!
The problem with the Remington is that some conicals will not clear the plunger, paper cartridge or not. What you want is the Johnston and Dow bullet. It is based off an original recovered Civil War bullet and will clear the plunger on the NMA. You can buy the mold and make your own, or there are places that sell them in this shape.
Isn’t it easier to just load your revolver? Or just use extra barrel that you can change in 3 sec
Great video thank you.
Great video, thanks!
great video,very informative. Where did you purchase the craft cutter for the circular pieces?
They are just a standard 5/8th or 1" craft cutter which can be found in any craft store or amazon. They also come in our Master and Deluxe Kits
Good video
Thanks for the video. Not as easy as it looks. Seems like every one I make, I screw up three 🤦
Ohhh!! I was trying to figure out wtf this was!! There musket shots! Am I right??
Cap and ball revolver loads. Colt walker (.44 cal), colt dragoon(.44), colt 1851 navy (.36 cal), colt 1860 army (.44), remington 1858 new army (.44), and ruger old army (.44). Both original and reproductions.
Paper cartridges were issued during the Civil War, though not universally, so are "period correct". Such cartridges will also work in "confederate pattern" revolvers in the same calibers
I'm dizzy now.
Cześć. Można u ciebie zamówić kopytko do cal. 36. I ten dziurkacz do Kołeczek papierowych
Looks like 3d printed kits
prob is, prob also cheaper than buying your own 3d printer and filament.
Do you make kits like that for the 1863 sharps?
We sell 54 Sharps Kits
Good, plan to use for moose after I get it@@cartridgekits
Is there no primer?
No primer in the cartridge. Percussion or "cap and ball" guns use a percussion cap. A percussion cap that goes on the nipple at the back of the cylinder. The hammer hits the primer that ignites the paper cartridge and boom.
Basically the same thing for percussion long guns. Just no cylinder obviously.